fiHMHiiiil 




itili 





Class. 
Book. 



PRESENTED BY 



APPLETONS' 

*■ 

COIPAldON HAID-BOOE 



OF 

TRAVEL: 

CONTAINING 

A FULL DESCRIPTION i 

OF THE PEINCIPAIi ( 

CITIES, TOWNS, AND PLACES OF INTEEEST, 

TOGETHEK ■«^TH 

HOTELS AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL 

THEOTJGH THE 

UNITED STATES AND THE CAMDAS. , , 

WITH COLORED MAPS. 

( 

EDITED BY 

T>"ADDISON RICHARDS. 

NEW TOEK: ' ^ 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 443 & 455 BROADWAY. 

LONDON: TRUBNER & CO. \ 

1865. I 



NOTICE. 



I?t5 



No expense or laljor ■will Ibe spared to make the Companion Hand-Book attractive, comprehcn- 
Bive, concise, thoTOUgh, and every way reliable. 

As we shall frequently print new editions, any information in regard to errors and omissions 
which those who use the work may detect, or any facts of interest and value— particularly in respect 
\ to new routes and accommoantions— will be gratefully received and considered. Such communica- 

tions should be addressed to the Publishers. 

The population of Cities and Towns mentioned in this "Work are those of the last Census (1S60), 
except when otherwise stated. 



■WE ALSO PUBLISH 



APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED RAILWAY GUIDE, Containing 

Seventy Maps, and the latest Time Tables, corrected to date. Published semi-monthly, 
under the supervision of the Eaihvay Companies. One Volume, 2S8 pages. 25 Cents. Sub- 
scription Price, $3 per annum. 

APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN 

TRAVEL, a Full and Eeliable Guide, by Pvailway, Steamboat, and Stage, to the Cities, Towns, 
Waterfalls, Battle-fields, Mountains, Elvers, Lakes, Hunting and Pishing Grounds, "Watering 
Places, Summer Eesorts, and all Scenes and Objects of Importance and Interest in the United 
States and British Provinces. By T. Addison Eichakds. "With Careful Maps of all Parts 
of the Country, and 100 Pictures of Famous Places and Scenes, from Origin-al Drawings by 
the Author and other Artists. 

PART I., containing the NOETHEEN A"N"D EASTERN STATES, $1. 
PART IL, " SOUTHEEN AND "WESTEEN STATES, $1. 

OR THE T"WO PAETS BOUND IN ONE VOLUME, $1 50. 



Enteeed, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S60, by 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 

la the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern 
District of New York. 

<3lft 



Judge and Mrs. Isaac R. Hitt 



TO THE TRAVELLER: 

SOME PARTING "WORDS OF ESPLAFATIOK AND ADVICE. 



-»-©-«- 



In a journey over so vast a country as the United States, occupying nearly half a 
Continent, and measuring its length and breadth by thousands, and its routes of travel 
by tens of thousands of miles, one may very readily be pardoned if he sometimes 
stumbles by the way. May we not beg the benefit of this consideration, if, in our 
present laborious itineraire, we have occasionally chanced, despite all our watchful- 
ness, to only half look at points of interest or to overlook them altogether ; or if, 
amidst the intricate reticulation of the roads, we may have momently lost our way ? 
We hope, however, that we have not been thus unlucky in any considerable degree, for 
we have made very honest effort to guide our traveller truly and surely ; to show him 
— ^hastily, to be sure, as needs must be, yet intelligently — the past and the present, the 
physique and the morale, of the great country through which we have led him ; its 
differing peoples and places, from the mountains to the prairies — from the cities and 
palaces of the East to the wildernesses and wigwams of the West. 

Thou^ we have thus done our best for the present, we hope to do still better 
hereafter, as we revise and extend our volume year after year, with the benefit of en- 
larged personal observation and of the good counsels of others : for we trust that 
those who follow our guidance will do us the kindness to advise us of any and all er- 
rors and omissions they may discover in our pages. To assist them in rendering us this 
generous service, we have placed some blank leaves for memoranda, at the end of our 
book. 

THE PLAN OF THIS BOOK. 

We have thought it best to follow the familiar geographical order of the various 
divisions of the country, and thus to begin at Canada on the extreme north-east, and, 
continuing along the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico, and upon the 
Pacific, westward. With rare exceptions, we have, instead of selecting a particular 
route and seeing all it offers of attraction, jumped at once to our,especial destiiiation, 
and then intimated the way by which it is reached. Thus, if the traveller happens to 
be in New York or Boston, and desires to go to New Orleans, he will, by turning to 



6 INTRODTJCTIOISr. 

" New Orleans," find the routes thither. The chief cities are taken as starting points 
for all other and lesser places in their neighborhood. It has not, of course, been possi- 
ble to mention every village or town in the Union, in the nan'ow hmits of a pocket 
Tolume, like this. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

The foreign tourist will soon observe, to his satisfaction, (and the citizen might 
remember it oftener, with thanks to his stars,) the great convenience of the total ab- 
sence in the United States, of all annoying demands for passports — of scowhng fortifi- 
cations and draw-bridges, of jealous gates, closed at a fixed hour of the evening and 
not to be re-opened before another fixed hour of the morning ; of custom-houses 
between the several States, and of all rummaging of baggage by gens d'armes for the 
octroi ; and yet, nevertheless, of as perfect a feeling of security, everywhere, as in the 
most vigilantly policed kingdoms of Europe. 

He may or may not like the table d'hote system of our hotels — the uniform fare and 
the unvarying price ; that, excepting in the few metropolitan cities, where the habits 
of all nations obtain, he must submit to. 

From the social equality everywhere and without exception, he will not suffer, how- 
ever high his rank at home ; and if it be not the highest, he will surely gain in con- 
sideration. To win attention and care, both the lofty and the lowly have, and have 
only, to dispense good will and kind manners as they pass along. 

MONET. 

" Greenbacks," in place of gold and silver, are current all through the Union, while 
bank-notes, and especially of distant States, very often are not. Change, too, will save 
trouble ; especially half-dollars, generally the fare of omnibuses and hacks, and invariably 
the price of meals. Twenty-five cent, notes, too, are useful, as fees for little services by 
the way. In traveUing through the settled districts by railway and steamboats, and at 
the best hotels, the daily expenses should be estimated at not less than five or six dollars 
per day for each person. 

BAGGAGE. 

As little baggage as possible is always a good rule, though a very liberal supply is 
permitted on the railways and almost any quantity on the steamboats. On the stages, 
the prescribed limit of sixty or eighty pounds cannot be exceeded without extra 
charge. 

The regular carriages of his hotel will convey the traveller securely and in season, 
to the railway station or the steamboat landing, where his first care must be to deposit 
his trunks in the keeping of the baggage-master, and receive a check for each one — 
corresponding marks will be attached to the baggage, and it will be delivered at the 



INTEODTJOTION. 7 

end of the route only to the holder of the checks. It is best to get baggage checked 
for the entire journey, or for the longest possible stage thereof, and thus save one's 
self the trouble of looking out for it more frequently than is necessary. 

Before arriving at his destination, the traveller will, on the principal routes, receive 
a call from an express agent, to whom he may safely resign his check and address, con- 
fident that his baggage will be duly deUvered, and at a charge of about thirty -iive 
cents for each piece or trunk. On arriving at the end of his journey, he should put 
himself in one of the carriages marked as in the particular service of the hotel to which 
he is going. If he employs other vehicles, it will be well to learn the fare beforehand, 
particularly in the city of New York, where hackmen pay but little attention, when they 
can help it, to the law in the case. 

TICKETS. 

Tickets on the railways should be purchased at the office before starting, otherwise 
a small additional charge will be made. If a long journey over various roads is in- 
tended, it is cheaper and more convenient to buy a through ticket to the end of the 
route, or for as long a distance as possible. On the steamboats, the tickets for pas- 
sage and for meals will be purchased at leisure, after starting, at the captain's office. 

HOTELS. 

The hotels of the United States are famous all the world over, for their extent, con- 
venience, comfort, and elegance. They are often truly palatial in their sumptuousness, 
with means and appliances for the prompt gratification of every want and whim. The 
universal price of board, from one end of the country to the other, is $2 50 to $4 
per day at the most fashionable, and indeed at all the principal houses. Private par- 
lors and extra rooms involve an additional charge, according to their position. Wines 
are always extra and always dear enough. 

■WAITERS OR SERVANTS. 

It is not the general custom in America, as in Europe, to fee waiters at the hotels, 
though it may very properly be done for especial personal service. It is often done by 
those who like hot dinners better than cold, or who may have a fancy for some rare 
dish when it unluckily happens to be " all out." 

COSTUME. 

At the watering places, the same resources of toilette are needed as in the city 
salon ; but though you be thus provided, do not be unprovided with a traveUing suit 
equal to rude usage. If the color be a gray or a brown, so much the better in the dust 
of railway and stage routes. Don a felt hat, — it does not crush itself on your head iu 



g ■ INTEODUCTION. 

car or carriage, or blow overboard on steamboats. Leave thin boots (this especially 
to the ladies) at home, and be well, and comfortably, and safely shod, in stout calf- 
shin. It is a pity to be kept in doors by the fear of spoiling one's gaiters or wetting 
one's feet, when the meadows and hills and brooks are waiting to be explored. In 
mountain tramps, a generous sized flask, filled with most excellent brandy, may be 
swung over the shoulder with very picturesque effect. 

Now that we have told our traveller how to go, it only remains to us, before start- 
ing, to add a word of suggestion as to 

WHERE TO GO. 

If you are in New York, with one, or two, or three, or more summer days to spare, 
run up to one or other of the many delightful places on the Hudson River, — to West 
Point, or Newburgh, for example ; or to the Catskill Mountains ; or run down to Rock- 
away, or Long Branch, or any of the many healthful and inviting resorts along the 
coast of Long Island and New Jersey. 

If a week is at your command, go to Lake George, or to Trenton Falls, or Niagara ; 
explore the varied route of the Erie Railway, or seek some one of the innumerable 
Springs of the State. 

If a fortnight or a month can be spared, make a trip to Canada. See Montreal 
and the Ottawa River, then go to Quebec and the Saguenay, returning through Maine ; 
or from Montreal go up the St. Lawrence to Toronto, and thence to the great Lakes; 
or spend a part or all of your time among the wonderful White Hills of New Hamp- 
shire. 

If the whole summer is waiting to be disposed of, visit the beauties of the Upper 
Mississippi, or explore the marvels of the vast region lying west of the great Father of 
waters, where Territories and States are springing up as by magic, and the wilderness 
may be literally seen blossoming as the rose. 

In winter leisure, make a voyage to Havana, or elsewhere in tlie neighboring islands, 
and fhid the summer airs again which you have lost in more northern latitudes. 

There is no lack of inviting resorts for a day, or week, or month, or forever. Look 
in this respect at our Skeleton Tours, and at the detailed descriptions and routes in the 
pages which follow. Go somewhere, if you can, all of you ; and wherever and whenever 
you go, God speed you on your way and send you duly back wiser, and better, and healthier, 
and happier men and women. 



SKELETOE" TOURS 

From New York to Various Parts of the United States and the Canadas. 

■WITH AN APPKOSIMATE STATEMENT OP THE TIME REQUIKED TO TRAVEL FROM PLACE TO 
PLACE, AND OF THE DURATION OF THE HALTS TO BE MADE AT THE MOST 

REMARKABLE SPOTS. 

See Description of Boutes, Hotels^ Places, and Scenes in the following pages.* 



A TOUR OF SIX DAYS, 

Visiting West Point, Nexohnrgh and the Cats- 
kills. 

Monday. New Tork to West Point (52 miles), 
by morning steamboat up the Hudson River, 
throiigli tlie Highlands, or by an early train on 
the Hudson River Railway, stopping at Garri- 
son's, and crossing by steam-ferry to the West 
Point Hotel or to Cozzen's, just below. Ar- 
rive in three hours, by or before noon. Visit 
the Military Academy, the ruins of Fort Put- 
nam, Kosciusko's Garden, Weir's Studio, etc, 

Tdesdat. Morning steamboat or early train to 
Newburgh (9 miles, crossing ferries included, 
one hour), stop at the Orange Hotel on the 
Main street, or at the Powelton, an elegant 
summer establishment in the suburbs ; visit 
Washington's Head Quarters in the village. 
After dinner, take a carriage for " Idlewild," 
the charming home of N. P. Willis, four miles 
down the river. Explore the grounds and the 
beautiful mountain brook and glen. Visit 
" Cedarlawn," the residence of the author 
Headley, on the way, a mile below New- 
burgh. 

Wednesday. Morning steamboat or by railway 
from Fishkill, opposite Newburgh, to Oakhill 
opposite Catskill ; 51 miles, 2 hours, besides 
ferries. From Catskill village, in good coaches, 
12 miles, through a most picturesque hill and 
valley region, to the Mountain House. 

Thursday. Look* out for the grand spectacle 
from this point, of the sun-rise. After break 
fast walk to the North Mountain, overlooking 
the hotel and the two lakes ; next, join the 
usual morning party in the two-mile ride to 
the High Falls : back to dinner. 

Friday. Ride from the Mountain House through 



the great Kauterskill Clove, westward to the 
village of Palenville, returning by valley and 
mountain road eastward ; or explore the ra- 
vines and cascades of the Clove, better on foot 
— a good day's tramp. 
Saturday. Return to New Tork, via Catskill 
Village and the Hudson River. 

jf% If more time is at command, devote a 
day to a visit to High Peak, another to the 
Stony Clove, and another to the Plauterkill 
Clove and Creek. 



A TOUR OP SIX DAYS, 

Visiting Albany and Troy {via the Hudson Hiver), 
Saratoga Springs, Lake George, Fort Ticon- 
deroga, and Whitehall, on Lake Champlain. 

Monday. From New Yorli by morning boat 
or cars, via Hudson River, 146 miles,-*5 or 6 
hours, to Albany (.see Albany and Troy.) 

Tuesday. Railway, time about two hours, from. 
Albany, through the city of Troy, to Saratoga 
Springs. Stop at the United States Hotel, at 
the Union Hall, at the Clarendon, or at the 
Congress Hall. 

Wednesday. To Lake George by railway 15 
miles, to Moreau Station, and thence by plank 
road, an hour or two, via Glen's Falls to Cald- 
well. Stop over night at the Lake House, or 
at the Fort William Henry Hotel, close by. 

Thursday. Spend the day on the Lake boating 
and fishing, or sketching. 

Friday. Make the voyage of the lake in the fa- 
vorite little steamer, the " Minnehaha," a few 
hours' sail to the village of Ticonderoga, at 
the foot or north end of the lake ; thence 3 
or 4 miles by coach to the ruins of Fort Ticon- 
deroga. 



For Railway Time-Tables consult Appletons' Monthly Railway and Steam Navigation Guide. 



10 



SKELETON TOUES. 



Saturjdat. Return home by the Lake Cham- 
plain steamers to Whitehall, and thence by 
Railway -via Troy and the Hudson. 

^*^ Same tour (except on the Hudson), 
•within the same time from Boston, taking 
the "Western Railway, thence {Mondaij) 200 
miles to Albany. 



A TOTTR OF SIX DAYS, 

Visiting Trenton and Niagara Falls, via the 
Central RaHtcay, and Returning by the New 
York and Erie Road. 
Monday. From New York to Trenton Falls, 
via Hudson River, 146 miles to Albany, Cen- 
tral Railway, 95 miles to Utioa, thence 15 miles 
to the Falls. 
Tuesday. Explore the Falls. 
Wednesday. Return to Utica and resume jour- 
ney on the Central Road, via Syracuse and Ro- 
chester (Falls of the Genesee) to Niagara. 
Thursday. At Niagara. 
Feiday. To Buffalo, and thence by the Erie 

Railway, passing the night at Binghamton. 
Saturday. Erie Road from Binghamton to 
New York. 

^% If more time is at command, remain 
over Sunday at Niagara, and follow the pic- 
turesque route of the Erie Road more leis- 
Tirel)', seeing the cascades and ravines of the 
Genesee, and the groat Railway Bridge at 
Portage, 61 miles from Buffalo. Ehnira,273 
miles from New York ; Owego, 236 miles ; 
Great Bend, 200 miles ; and Port Jervis, 88 
miles, are pleasant stopping places on the 
way. 

TOim OF A WEEK, 

Visiting Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washing- 
ton City. 
Monday. From New York by morning line to 

Philadelphia on the New Jersey Railway, 87 

miles, or by the Camden and Amboy route. 

Arrive in the early afternoon. 
Tuesday. At Philadelphia. 
"Wednesday. Morning train to Baltimore, 97 

miles ; arrive in the early afternoon. 
Thursday. Spend the day in Baltimore, and 

take the evening train, 40 miles, 2 hours, to 

"Washington. 
Friday. At Washington 
Saturday. Return to New York l>y Baltimore 

and Philadelphia, 224 miles. 

jf** If more time can be spared, remain in 
Washington Saturday and Sunday, visiting 
Mount Vernon, Georgetown, A'lexandria'', 
etc. Return on Monday to Philadelphia, 
and nest day leisurely to" New York. 



TOTJR OF A WEEK, 

Visiting the Valley of Wyoming and the Dela- 
ware Water Gap. 

Monday. From New York by the Erie Rail- 
way, 200 mil'es, to Gre.at Bend. 
Tuesday. By the Delaware, Lackawanna and 
Western Railway to Scranton, an interesting 
place ; thence to Wilkesbarre, on the Sus- 
quehanna, and in the "Valley of Wyoming. 
Wednesday. Explore the valley, visiting Pros- 
pect Rook, 3 miles from the village and Nanti- 
coke, in the beautiful passage of the Susque- 
hanna, at the Southern extremity of Wyoming. 
Thursday. Returning, take the cars via Mauoh 
Chunk, in the coal region, to Easton and the 
Water Gap. 
Friday. At the Water Gap. 
Saturday. Reach home by the Delaware, 
Lackawanna, and Western Railway, and other 
routes across New Jersey. 

*^f* With more time, it would be agreeable 
to spend a day at Scranton, two or three in 
and below the Valley of Wyoming ; to stop 
at Mauch Chunk, and see the coal mines 
and the bold landscape of the Lehigh River. 



TOUR OF TWO WEEKS, 

Visiting the White Jloimtains and the lake 
Scenery of New Hampshire, via Boston. 

FIRST WEEK. 

Monday. From New York to Boston, joiu'ney 
occupying the night, by the Stonington and 
Providence, the Fall River or the Norwich 
routes (morning and evening), or by the Bos- 
ton Express ; or the Shore Line via New Lon- 
don. 

Tuesday. Boston. 

Wednesday. Boston to Centre Harbor, on 
Lake Winnipiseogee ; arrive at dinner time ; 
spend the afternoon on the lake or lake shores. 

Thursday. Visit Red Hill (on horseback), a 
few miles distant, and overlook the beautiful 
lake region. 

Friday. Proceed by the "White Mountain 
stages to North Conway, one of the most 
charming valleys in the world ; stopover night 
at Thompson's. 

Saturday. Continue journey by stage 24 miles 
to Crawford House, in the Gre.=it "Wliite Moun- 
tain Notch— traversing the valleys of Conway, 
Bartlett, etc. 

Sunday. Crawford House 

SECOND WEEK. 
Monday. Ascend Mount Washington. 



SKELETOIT TOIJES. 



11 



fTuESDAT. Visit the Silver Cascado and other 
scenes in the neighborhood of the ISTotoh. 

"Wednesday. Continue joiirney, by stage, 27 
miles, to the Profile House, in the Franconia 
group of the White Hills, following the course 
of the Ammonoosuo. 

Thctrsdat. Profile House; visit Echo Lake 
and Profile Lake, and see the Old Man of the 
Mountain, Eagle Cliff, Cannon Mountain, and 
other sights of the vicinage. 

Fkidat. Kide 5 miles, from the Profile to the 
Flume House ; visit tke Flume and its neigh- 
boring marvels. 

Saturday. Returning, take stage to Littleton, 
12 miles ; thence by Railway 20 miles to Wells' 
River ; thence through the valley of the Con- 
necticut to Bellows Falls, Brattleboro, or 
Northampton. 

Sunday. At Bellows Falls, Brattleboro, or 
N'orthampton. 

Third Monday. Home, from ISTortharapton, by 
Springfield, Hartford, and New Haven, or 
(from. Bellows Falls) by Albany and the Hud- 
eon. 



A TOUR OF TWO WEEKS, 

From New York to the White Mountains, via 
Boston and Portland, returning by the Con- 
necticut Valley Routes. 

FIRST WEEK. 

Monday. New York to Boston. 

Tuesday. At Boston. 

Wednesday. Boston to Portland, Maine. 

Thursday. At Portland. 

Friday. From Portland by the Grand Trunk 

Railway, 91 miles, to Gorham, N. H., White 

Mountain Station : continue journey in coaches 

8 miles to the Glen House. 
Saturday. Journey by stage from the Glen 

House, 34 miles, to the Crawford House, 

White Mountain Notch. 
Sunday. At the Crawford House. 

SECOND WEEK. 
Explore the White Mountains and return home, 
as in preceding tour. 



A TOim OF TWO WEEKS, 

Visiting the New England Cities, Neio Haven, 
Hartford, Springfield, Boston^ Providence, and 
Newport. 

FIRST WEEK. 

KoNDAY. From New York to New Haven, Ct., 
76 miles, by the New Haven Railway ; visit 
Yale College, the Trumbull Gallery, etc. 



Tuesday. Continue journey, 36 miles, to Hart- 
ford, Ct. 

Wednesday. To Springfield, Mass., 26 miles; 
visit the United States Armory. 

Thursday. To Boston, 98 miles. 

Friday. At Boston. 

Saturday. At Boston. 

Sunday. At Boston. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday. Morning train from Boston, 43 miles, 
to Providence ; see the Library of Brown Uni- 
versity and the Atheneum ; visit the Seekonk 
River and " What Cheer Rook," on the edge 
of the city, the village and Falls of Pawtucket, 
near by, etc. 

Tuesday. At Providence ; take a sail down the 
Narraganset Bay and back, in one of the nu- 
merous excursion steamers. 

Wednesday. Take the steamboat down the 
Narragansett Bay, from Providence to New- 
port ; a charming voyage of some two hours. 

Thursday. At Newport. 

Friday. At Newport. 

Saturday. At Newport. 

Sunday. At Newport. 

Monday. Home, by Fall River Steamers direct. 



TOim OF TWO WEEKS, 

From New York tip the Valley of the Housatonic 
to Great Barringtoyi, Stockbridge, etc., in 
Berkshire, Mass. ; Lebanon Spriyigs and 
Shaker Village, N. Y. Returning via the 
Hudson River and West Point. 

FIRST WEEK. 

Monday. From New York, via New Haven 
Railway, to Bridgeport, Ct. ; thence without 
stopping, by the Housatonic Railway up the 
valley and river of the Housatonic to Great 
Barrington, in Berkshire, Mass. 

Tuesday. At Great Barrington. 

Wednesday. From Great Barrington, Railway 
25 miles to Old Stockbridge. 

Thursday. At Old Stockbridge. 

Friday. Lebanon Springs. 

Saturday. Lebanon Springs. 

Sunday. Lebanon Springs. Visit Shaker vil- 
lage, near by. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday. Visit Pittsfleld, WiUiamstown, Lenos, 

Adams, etc. 
Tuesday. Visit Pittsfield, WiUiamstown, 

Lenox, Adams, etc. 
Wednesday. Visit Pittsfield, WiUiamstown, 

Lenox, Adams, etc. 
Thursday. Return via Western Railway to 



12 



SKEI.ETON TOTJES. 



Albany, or by the Hudson and Boston Koad to 
Hudson, and thence down the Hudson River 
to West Point. 

Feidat. At West Point. 

Saturday. Back in New York. 



TOUS OF TWO WEEKS, 
Visiting the Valley of the Connecticut. 

Mo SD AT. By Railway from New York via New 
Haven and Hnrtford, Ct., to SpriDgficld, Mass. 
138 miles ; dine, visit the U. S. Armory, etc. 

Tuesday. To Northampton, 17 miles, by Rail- 
way, near the banks of the Connecticut. 

Wednesday. At N orthampton, visiting Mount 
Holyoke, and other scenes of great interest in 
the immediate neighborhood. 

Thuksdat. Continue on the Railways up the val- 
ley and river 19 miles to Greenfield, Mass. ; walk 
in the evening to the high ridge called Poet's 
Seat, finely overlooking all the country round. 

Friday. Resume the journey (by Railway al- 
ways), up the valley, 24 miles further, to Brat- 
tleboro, in Vermont. This is one of the most 
agreeable resting places on the route ; one of 
the most attractive in scenery, society, hotel 
comforts, etc. 

Saturday. Visit the grounds of the Insane 
Asylum, West River, the Cemetry, and other 
charming localities in the vicinage of Brattle- 
horo. 

Sunday. Still at Brattleboro ; a pleasant place 
for a Sunday halt, all travel being suspended 
on that day hereabouts 

losDAY. Resume journey 24 miles further up 
the river to Bellows Falls. At this point the 
traveller may turn back if he jjleases by rail- 
way via Rutland, Vt., Whitehall, on Lake 
Champlain, Saratoga Springs, Albany or Troy, 
and the Hudson River ; going on Tuesday to 
Saratoga, and on Wednesday to New York ; or 
he may continue on with us yet further up the 
valley of the Connecticut. 

Tuesday. From Bellows FaUs 26 miles to 
Windsor, Vt. , a very quiet, picturesq^ue, and 
pleasant place. 

■Wednesday. Ascend Mount Ascutney, near 
Windsor 

Thursday. From Windsor (returning) by the 
Vermont Central Road, through the charming 
valley of the Winooski to Burlington, on Lake 
Champlain. 

Friday. Cross the Lake from Burlington to 
Port Kent, and visit the bold ravine called the 
Walled Banks of the Ausable. 

Saturday. Home by Whitehall, Troy, Albany, 
and the Hudson. 
%* At Windsor ("Second Tuesday of this tour), 



the traveller being on one of the most agrecablo 
routes thence, may continue his jom"ney east- 
ward to the White Mountain Region. 



TOUR OE THKEE WEEKS, 

Visiting the Hudson River, Saratoga Springs, 
Lake George, Lake Champlain, Montreal, 
Quebec, and the Saguenay River, the St. 
Lawi'ence River, Niagara Falls, and the 
Scenery of the Erie Railway. 

FIRST WEEK. 
Monday. From New York to Albany, by 

steamboat or railway (Hudson River), thence 

by railway to Saratoga. 
Tuesday. Saratoga Springs. 
Wednesday. To Caldwell on Lake George. 
Thursday. Down Lake George to Fort Ticon- 

dcroga on Lake Champlain. 
Friday. Steamer on Lake Champlain (a pleasant 

voyage) and onward by railway to Montreal. 
Saturday. Montreal. 
Sunday. Montreal. 

SECOND WEEK. 
Monday. Railway or St. Lawrence River to 

Quebec. 
Tuesday. Quebec. 
Wednesday. Down the St. Lawrence to the 

mouth of the Saguenay 
Thursday. Voyage up the Saguenay. 
Friday. Back to Quebec. 
Saturday. Grand Trunk Railway to Montreal. 
Sunday. Montreal. 

THIRD WEEK. 

Monday. Up the St. Lawrence to Kingston. 

Tuesday. Grand Trunk Railway via Toronto 
to Hamilton ; thence, by the Great Western 
Road to Suspension Bridge, Niagara. 

Wednesday. Niagara Falls. 

Thursday. Niagara. 

Friday. Erie Railway (returning) to Owego or 
Binghamton, or to Utica on Central Route. 

Saturday. Home. 
*^* Omit the detour from Montreal to Quebec, 
and back, and make this tour within two weeks 
instead of three. 



HUNTING TOUR OE THREE 

WEEKS, 

To the Saranac Lakes, in the Wilderness of 
Northern New York. 

FIRST WEEK. 
Monday. From New York to Port Kent, oppo- 
site Burlington, on Lake Champlain, via Hud- 



SKELETOIT TOUES. 



13 



son Rivor, Saratoga Springs, and 'Whitehall. 
Prom Port Kent, by omnibus or stage, five 
miles bacli, to Kecseville. Stop at the Ausable 
House. 

Tuesday. Visit the remarkable ravines and 
cascades near Kecseville, called the Walled 
Banks of the Ausable. 

"Wednesday. Take the tri-weekly mail wagon 
or private carriage, for the banks of the Lower 
Saranac, stopping at Baker's, a mile distant, or 
at Martin's on the shore. 

Thursday. Secure the services of a guide and 
hunter, with his boat, dogs, tent, and all neces- 
sary equipments and provisions for camp life, 
all the journey hence being by water. 

Fkiday. On the tower Saranac, crossing the 
"carrying place" in the afternoon to the 
Middle Saranac on the shore of which camp 
for the night, after a supper of trout readily 
taken, with venison, pierchance, to boot. 

Saturday and Sunday. Camp on the Upper 
Saranac, one of the most beautiful of these 
lakes, and a fine hunting and fishing ground. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday and Tuesday. Visit the St. Kegis 
Lake. 

"Wednesday. Return to the Middle Saranac 
(or Round Lake), make a short portage to the 
Stony Creek Pond ; and thence reach " the 
Racquette River," by a pull of three miles ou 
the Stony Creek. Camp for the night. 

Thursday. Voyage on the Racquette River of 
20 miles to Tupper's Lake. The tourist is 
here at the last and most charming portion of 
the region colnprised in our present tour ; and 
here, be he artist or hunter, he will be very 
willing to pass the remainder of the time 
which his furlough grants to him. Lough 
K"eah is a continuation of the picturesque 
waters of Tupper's Lake. 

Friday. Tupper's Lake. 

Saturday. Tupper's Lake. 

Sunday. Tuppci's Lake. 

THIRD WEEK. 

Monday. Tupper's Lake. 

Tuesday, Returning ; retraverse the Racquette 

River. 
Wednesday. Arrive at the Middle Saranac 

Lake. 
Thursday. Back to the starting point on the 

Lower Saranac. 
Friday. Regain Lake Champlain at Port Kent, 

or at Westport. 
Saturday. Home. 

*jj.* If the traveller in this wonderful re- 
gion be addicted to the rSfle, the rod, or the 



pencil, he may extend his visit with pleas- 
ure from tliree wcelts to three months. 
The xVdirondack hills and lakes — another 
portion of this marvellons wilderness — are 
not far removed from the Saranac : and 
one, two, or more weeks might be spent 
there with great satisfaction. 



TOTJB OP FOUB WEEKS, 

To the Grand Lakes, via Quebec, Montreal, the 
St. Lawre7ice Niagara Falls, (J'c. 

. FIRST WEEK. 

Monday. From New York, via Albany and 

Troy, to Saratoga. 
Tuesday. Saratoga Springs. 
Wednesday. To Montreal, by Railway or 

Steamer on Lake Champlain. 
Thursday. Montreal. 
Friday. To Quebec. 
Saturday. Quebec and visiting the Mont- 

morenci, the Chaudiere, &c. 
Sunday. Quebec. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday. Great Trunk Railway, by Montreal, 
to Toronto, on Lake Ontario. 

Tuesday. Take the Northern Railway of Ca- 
nada, 95 miles, to Collingwood, on the Geor- 
gian Baj', an arm of Huron. 

Wednesday. By Steamer, on Lake Huron, to 
the Straits of Mackinac. 

Thursday. Mackir.ac. 

Friday. Mackinac. 

Saturday. Steamer to the Sault St. Marie — the 
connecting link of the waters of Huron and 
Lake Superior. 

Sunday. At the Saiilt de St. Marie, or the 
" Soo," as it is familiarly called. 

THIRD WEEK. 
Voyage on Lake Superior. 

FOURTH WEEK. 

Monday. From the Sault de St. Marie (return- 
ing) (Steamer on Lake Huron) to Detroit, 
Michigan. 

Tuesday. Ccreat "Western Railway to Suspen- 
sion Bridge, Niagara Falls. 

"Wednesday. Niagara Falls. 

Thursday. Niagara Falls. 

Friday. To Utica Central Railway, or to Bing- 
hamton, Erie Route. 

Saturday. To New Tork. 



14 



SKELETON TOTTES. 



TOUR OF POUB WEEKS, 

To the Virginia Springs, TFeiV's Cave, the Natu- 
ral Bridge, the Peaks of Otter, Sfc. 

FIRST WEEK. 
Monday. Prom New York to Philadelphia. 
Tuesday. Philadelphia to Baltimore. 
Wednesday. Baltimore to Washington Cit}'. 
Thuksday. At Washington City— visit Mount 

Vernon. 
Priday. To Alexandria; and thence, by the 

Alexandria Railway, 8S miles ; and from Gor- 

donsville, on the Virginia Central Road, 64 

miles to Staunton. 
Saturday. Stage or Carriage, 17 miles, to 

Weir's Cave. 
Sunday. At Weir's Cave. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday. At Weir's Cave, returning in the 
afternoon to Staunton. 

Tuesday. Continue journey on the Central 
Road, to Jackson's River, thence to the Sul- 
phur Springs by Stage. (For Natural Bridge, 
take Stage at Millboro'). 

Wednesday. En Route. 

Thursday. White Sulphur Springs. 

Priday. White Sulphur Springs. 

Saturday. White Sulphur Springs. 

Sunday. White Sulphur Springs. 

THIRD WEEK 
May he devoted to the other Springs of this Re- 
gion. 

FOURTH WEEK. 

Visit the Natural Bridge, 63 miles from the 
White Sulphur Springs ; 12 miles from Lex- 
ington ; 36 miles from Lynchburg, on the Vir- 
ginia and Tennessee Railwaj', from Richmond, 
west ; next, see the Peaks of Otter, in the same 
region. Return home by the Virginia and Ten- 
nessee Road, from Lynchburg to Richmond ; 
thence, by the Great Southern Mail Route to 
Washington ; or, more agreeably, by the James 
River and the Chesapeake Bay, to Baltimore ; 
from Baltimore to Philadelphia ; from Phila- 
delphia to New York. 



TOTJR OF FOTJE WEEKS, 

From New York, via Boston and Portland, to 
Quebec arid the Saguenay, Montreal, the Ot- 
taica, and the St. Lawrence, returning by 
Niagara and Trenton Falls, Saratoga 
Springs, and the Hudson River. Detour of 
ten days {extra') to the White Mountains. 



Moxday. 



FIRST WEEK. 
New York to Boston. 



Tuesday. At Boston. 
Wednesday. Boston to Portland, Maine. 
Thursday. At Portland. 

Friday. From Portland to Quebec, by the 
Grand Trunk Railjvay. 

Detour of Ten Days to White Mountains. 

[The White Mountains may be pleasantly visited 
from this part of our present Route (in ten ex- 
tra days), stopping at Gorham, N. H., 91 miles 
on the way from Portland, reaching Glen 
House, 8 miles from Gorham, same day ; Craw- 
ford House, White Mountain Notch, on Satur- 
day ; and so on, as per programme of Second 
Week, in previous Tours, returning to the 
Glen House by the Second Sunday, and resum- 
ing journey (from Gorham to Quebec) on Mon- 
day following.] 

Saturday. At Quebec. 

Sunday. At Quebec. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Monday. At Quebec, visiting Falls of Mont- 
morenci, of the Chaudiere, of St. Anne, &c. 

Tuesday. Excursion to Saguenay River and 
back to Quebec. 

Wednesday. Excursion to Saguenay River and 
back to Quebec. 

Thursday. Excursion to Saguenay River and 
back to Quebec. 

Friday. From Quebec, by grand Trunk Rail- 
way, or St. Lawrence River, to Montreal. 

Saturday. Montreal. 

Sunday. Montreal. 

Monday. Excursion up the Ottawa River from 
Montreal and back. 

Tuesday. Excursion up the Ottawa River from 
Montreal and back. 

Wednesday. Excursion np the Ottawa River 
from Montreal and back. 

Thursday. Up the St. Lawrence and Lake 
Ontario (or by Grand Trunk Railway) to 
Niagara Falls. 

Friday. Up the St. Lawrence and Lake On- 
tario (or by Grand Trunk Railway) to Niagara 
Falls. 

Saturday. At Niagara Falls. 

Sunday. At Niagara Falls. 

FOURTH WEEK. 

Monday. Still at Niagara. 

Tuesday. By Central Railway to Utica. 

Wednesday. From Utica, 15 miles, to Trenton. 

Falls 
Thursday. At Trenton Falls, returning to 

Utica in the evening. 
Friday. Journey to and stay at Saratoga 

Springs. 
Saturday. Back to New York, via Troy, Al- 

bany, and the Hudson River. 



SKELETON TOUES. 



15 



TOUR OP POUB WEEKS, 

To the Upper Mississippi, via Niagara, Detroit, 
Chicago, Mihoaukee, St. Paul, St. Louis, 
Louisville, Cincinnati, etc. 

FIRST WEEK. 
Monday. From New York to Niagara by the 

Erie Railway, 444 miles, or by the Central 

route, 466 miles— a journey more comfortably 

made in two days than one, if time serves. 

By Cimandaigua, direct, 439 miles. 
TuESDAT. Niagara. 
"Wednesday. By the Great Western Railway, 

229 miles, to Detroit. 
Thursday. By the Michigan Central road, 284 

miles, to Chicago. 
Friday. Chicago, 111. 
Satdbday. To Milwaukee by steamer on Lake 

Michigan, or by railway along shore, 85 miles. 
Sunday. At Milwaukee, Wis. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Visit to St. Paul, Minnesota, leaving Milwaukee 
on Monday for Madison, Wis., and thence 
(cirouitously) by railway to Dubuque on the 
Mississippi, or returning, to Chicago, and 
thence to Dubuque direct, by the Galena and' 
Chicago route. From Dubuque by steamer 
up the Mississippi River to St. Paul and the 
Falls of St. Anthony. Returning by the end 
of the week (second of the tour) via the river, 
to St. Louis. 

THIRD WEEK. 

Monday. At St. Louis. 

Tuesday. By the Ohio and Mississippi Rail- 
way, and the New Albany and Salem road to 
Louisville. 

Wednesday. At Louisville, Ky. 

Thursday. At Louisville. 

(Another week would permit the traveller to 
visit the Mammoth Gave very agreeably from 
this the chief point of detour thitheri) 

Friday. By railway or steamer on the Ohio 
River to Cincinnati. 

Saturday. At Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Sunday. At Cincinnati 

FOURTH WEEK. 

Monday. By railway to Columbus, Ohio. 

Tuesday. Railway to Zanesville, Ohio. 

Wednesday. To Wheeling, Va. 

Thursday and Friday. By the Baltimore and 
Ohio road to Baltimore, or by the Pennsylva- 
nia Railway to Philadelphia. Both these noble 
routes are as magnificent in their pictorial 



attractions as in their grand extent— each 
traversing a wide extent of country, repleto 
with every variety of natural beauty. 
Saturday. To New York. 



A WINTER TOUR OF SIX WEEKS, 

Visiting the Invalid Resorts of Florida, Savan- 
nah and Augusta, Geo., Charleston and Co- 
lumbia, S. C, Richmond, Va.,and Washing- 
t07i City. 

FIRST WEEK. 
Saturday. Leave New York by the steamer of 
Saturday afternoon, and arrive in Savannah 
Tuesday morning. Spend the rest of the week 
in Savannah at the Pulaski House, the Scriven, 
or the City Hotel. 

SECOND WEEK. 

Saturday. Leave Savannah in the steamer for 
Jacksonville, Pilatka and other places on the 
St. John's river. Spend the week hereabouts. 

THIRD WEEK. 
At St. Augustine, on the coast, below the mouth 
of the St. John's. St. Augustine, or the " An- 
cient City," as it is sometimes called, from its 
venerable age, which exceeds that of any other 
place in the Union, will tempt the visitor to a 
long tarry with the social attractions which its 
fame as an invalid resort has secured. The 
peculiar natural features of the city and the 
neighborhood, will also win his particular 
interest. 

FOURTH WEEK. 
At St. Augustine. 

FIFTH WEEK. 
Return to Savannah and t.ake the Georgia Cen- 
tral railway to Augusta, thence by the South 
Carolina road to Charleston. 

SIXTH WEEK. 
Monday. By South Carolina Railway from 

Charleston to Columbia. 
Tuesday. At Columbia, resuming journey in 

the afternoon. 
Wednesday. En route. 
Thursday. At Richmond, Va. 
Friday. Arrive at Washington City. 
Saturday. To Baltimore in the evening. 
Sunday. At Baltimore. 
Monday. To New York. 



16 



THEOTJGH EOUTES. 



From 

ALBANY 

to 



Salttmore 

Boston 

Buffalo 

Chicago ': 

Cincinnati 

Montreal, C. £, 

New York 

Niagara Falls. 
PliiladcIpMa ■■ 
St. Louis 



From 

BAXTIMOKE 

to 

Albany 

Boston 

Bnffalo 

Charleston, 8. C. . . 



Chicago, ni. 



KOUTES from ALBANY to the following Alphahetleally arranged List of 

Towns. 

The numerical notation of Rentes does not indicate our preference of any one 

over the others. 

For Time of Departure see Appletons' Railway Guide. 



Via Hudson R. R., Harlem R. R., or North River Steamboats to New York, N. J. R. R., or 
Camden and Amboy to Pbiladelpbia, and Phila., 'Wirn and Bait. R. R. to Baltimore. 

Via ■^Vestera R. R. 

Via N. T. Central R. R. 

Via N. Y. Central to Suspension Bridge, Great TVestern to Detroit and Micliigan Central E. R. to 
Chicago ; or via N. Y. Central to Buffalo, Lake Shore Route to Cleveland, Clevel' d and Toledo 
R. R. to Toledo and Mich'n, Southern to Chicago. 

Via N. Y. Central to Buffalo, Lake Shore Route to Cleveland, Cleveland and Columbus to Col- 
umbus and Little Miami to Cincinnati. 

Via Rensselaer »od Sar. R. R. to Saratoga Springs, to TVhitehall bj Saratoga and 'Whilehall 
R. R., Steamers on Lake Champlain to Rouse's Point, and R. K. to MontreaL 

Via Hudson R. R., Harlem E. E., or the North River Boats. 

Via N. Y. CentraL 

See Route to Baltimore. 

Route No. 1. — Via N.Y. Central to Buffalo, Lake Shore Route to Cleveland, Bellefontalne Route 
to Indianapolis, Terre Haute and Richmond to Terre Haute, and Terre Haute, Alton and St. 
Louis to St. Louis. 

Route No. 2.— Via same route to Cleveland, Cleve. and Tol. to Toledo, and Mich. Southern to 
Chicago ; St. Louis, Alton and Chi. R. E. to St. Louis. 

Eotn'E No. 3.— Via N. Y. Central, Great Western and Mich. Central to Chicago, and Chicago, 
Alton and St. Louis to St, Louis. 

Route No. 4.— Via the route to Cleveland; Cleveland and Col. E.R., Little Miami B. H. to 
Cincinnati, and Ohio and Miss., or Ind. and Cin. E. E., Terre Haute and Eich'nd, and Terra 
Haute, Alton and St. Louis E.E.'s to St. Louis. 

Route No. 5.— Via the Eoute to Cleveland and Toledo ; via Toledo and Wabash E. E. at To- 
ledo for St. Louis. 



ROUTES from BALTI.TIOKE to the following Alphabetically arranged 

List of Towns. 

For Time of Departure see Appletons' Railway Guide.' 

See .\lbauy to Baltimore. 

Via Phila., TTil. and Bait. R. R. to Phila. ; Camden and Amboy to New York, and, at the trav- 
eller's choice, by the Boston Express Line, Shore R. R. Line, or the Steamers via Norwicli 
and Worcester, Fall Elver, or the Stonington Route, to Boston. 

Via Northern Central to "Williamsport, 'Williamsport and Elmira to Elmira, and Erie E. E. to 
Buffalo. 

Route No. 1. — Via Bait, and Ohio to 'Washington; Rich'd, Fred, and Potomac to Richmond; 
Rich'd and Petersburg P. R. to Petersburg; Petersburg and 'Weldon R.E. to 'Weldon; ■Wil- 
mington and Weldon R. R. to "Wilmington ; "Wilmington and Manchester R. R. to Florence ; 
and North Eastern E. E. to Charleston. 

Route No. 2. — Via Steamboat to Norfolk and Seaboard and Roanoke E. E. to "Weldon ; thence 
to Charleston via E. R.'s in Route No. 1. 

Route No. 1. — Via B. and Ohio route to "Wheeling, CI. Ohio to Newark ; Newark, Mansfield and 
Sandusky R. R. to Munroeville ; Cleve. and Tol. and Mich. South'n E. R. to Toledo and 
Chicago. 

Eoute No. 2. — Same to "Wheeling ; Central Ohio to Columbus ; Little Miami to Xenia ; Dayton, 
Xenia and Belpre E. R. to Dayton ; Bellefontaine Route to Indianapolis ; Lafayette and In- 
dianapolis R. R. to Lafayette; Louisville, N. A. and Chicago to Michigan City; Mich. 
Central to Chicago. 



THEOtTGH EOUTES. 



17 



From 

BALTIMOKE 

to 



Cliicaffo, 111. 



Cincinnati 



Mobile . 



New Orleans . 



EOrTES from BALTIMORE to tlie follo^lns Alphabetically nrranced 
List of Towns— Continued. 

For Time of Departure see Appletons' Railicaij Guide. 



TTcwXcrk 

Kiajfara Falls 
Philadelphia . 
St. Louis 



From 

BOSTOX 

to 

Albany 

Baltimore 

Charleston 

Cincinnati 

Chicago 

Montreal 

a 

Memphis 

Jfew Orleans ... 
Tfew Tork 



Route No. 3. — Baltimore and Ohio E. E. and N. 'West. Va.E. E. toParkersburg; Mar. and Cin. 
R. R. to Cincinnati ; Indianapolis and Cin. R. R. to Indianapolis ; Lafayette and Ind. R. E. to 
Lafayette ; Louisville, N. A. R. E. and Chicago R. R. to Mich. City ; Mich. Central to Chicago. 

Via Baltimore and Ohio E. R. and N. Wesfn E. E. to Parkersburg ; Marietta and Cincinnati 
E. R. to Cincinnati ; or via Bait, and Ohio R. E, to "Wheeling ; Ohio Central to Columbus, 
and Little Miami to Cincinnati. 

Route No. 1. — Via Bait, and Ohio R. R. to 'Washington ; "Washington to Alexandria by Steam- 
boat ; bj' the Orange and Alex. R. R. to Lynchburg ; Va. and Tenn. R. R. to Bristol ; East 
Tenn. and Va. R. E. to Knoxville ; E. Tenn. and Ga. E. R. to Cleveland and Dalton R. R. to 
Dalton ; "Western and Atlantic to Atlanta, Ga. ; Atlanta and 'W"est Point R. E. to "West Point ; 
Montg. and "W. Point E.E. to Montgomery ; and Steamboat to Mobile. 

Route No. 2. — Via Charleston Route to Florence ; "Wil. and Manchester R. R. to Kingsville ; 
So. Ca. R. E. to Augusta ; Georgia E. R. to Atlanta ; and from Atlanta as in the preceding 
route. 

EOUTE No. 1. — "Washington Branch E. E. to "Washington ; thence via Steamboat to Alexandria ; 
Orange and Alexandria E. E. to Lynchburg; thence via Virginia and Tennessee R.R. to 
Bristol ; thence via East Tennessee and Virginia R. R. to Knoxville ; thence via East Ten- 
nessee and Georgia R. R. to Chattanooga ; thence via Nashville and Chattanooga R. R. to 
Stevenson ; thence via Memphis and Charleston R. R. to Grand Junction ; thence via Mis- 
sissippi Central R.R. to Canton ; thence via New Orleans, Jackson and Great Northern R.R. 
to New Orleans. 

Route No. 2. — See Route to Mobile No. 2 ; by steamer from Mobile to New Orleans. 

Route No. 3. — Route No. I to Cincinnati ; thence by Ohio and Miss. R. R. to Odin, on the 111. 
Central ; Illinois Central to Cairo ; by Steamboat to Columbus ; Mobile and Ohio to Junc- 
tion ; Miss. Central to Jackson and N. 0. ; Jackson E. R. to New Orleans. 

See Route from New York to Baltimore. 

See Route Bait, to Buffalo ; thence by N. T. Central to Niagara Falls. 

Via Phila., "U^ilmington and Bait. R. R. 

Route No. 1. — Via Route 1 to Cincinnati, and Ohio and Miss. R. R. to St. Louis, or from Cin- 
cinnati via Ind. and Cincinnati R. R., Terre Haute and Rich., and Terre Haute, Alton and St. 
Louis R. R. to St. Louis. 

Route No. 2.— Via Bait, and Ohio E.E. to "Wheeling; Ohio Central R.R. to Columbus ; Co- 
lumbus and Indianapolis and Bellefontaine E. R. to Indianapolis ; Terre Haute and Eich'd, 
and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis E. R. to St. Louis. 



ROUTES from BOSTON to the followins Alphabetically arranged List of 

Cities. 

For Time of Departure see Appletons'' Railway Guide. 

Via Boston and "Wor. R.R. and "Western R.R. 

See Routes from Boston to New Tork, and Baltimore to New York. 

See Eoutes from Boston to New York, and New York to Charleston. ^ 

See Eoutes from Boston to Albany, and Albany to Cincinnati. 

Also, Eoutes from Boston to New York, and routes thence to Cincinnati. 

See Eoutes from Boston to Albany, and Albany to Chicago. 

Or see Routes from Boston to New Tork, and Routes from New York to Chicago, 

Route No. 1. — Via Eastern E.E. or Boston and Maine to Portland, and Grand Trunk to 

Montreal. 
Route No. 2.— Via Boston and Lowell R.E., Cheshire E.E.,Ver. Central to Rouse's Point; 

thence by Montreal and Champlain E. R, 
See Eoutes to New Orleans. 

See Routes from Boston to New York, and Routes thence to New Orleans. 
Five Eoutes, viz., Boston Express ; the Shore Line via Providence ; or via either the Fall 

Eiver, Stonington or Norwich Lines. 



18 



THEOTJGH EOTJTES. 



From 
BOSTON 

to 



Philadelphia 
Savannah . . ■ . 

St. liouis 



From 

CtNCIXNATI 

to 

Alhnny 

Saltimorc 

Boston 

Chicngo 

Cleveland 

Charleston ■ 

Detroit 

Montreal 



New Orleans 

New Orleans, via 
Nashville & Mam- 
moth Cave 

New Tork 

Philadelphia 

St. Louis 



■Woshinston, ». C. 



From 

CHICAGO 

to 

Albany 

Baltimore 

Boston 



EOtlTES from BOSTON to the following Alphahctieally arranged List of 

Cities— Continued. 

For Time of Dejiarlure see Appletons^ Railway Gidde. 



Sec Routes from Boston to New York, and New York to Philadelphia. 

See Routes from Boston to New York, New York to Bait., and Routes from Bait, to Cbarleston, 
and Steamer to Savannah. A steamer leaves New York twice a week for Savannah direct. 
Sec Routes from Boston to Albany, and Routes thence to St. Louis. 
Or Routes from Boston to New York, and Routes thence to St. Louis, 



EOtlTES from CINCINNATI to the foUowuig Cities AlphahetieoUy 

arranged. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 

See Routes from Albany to Cincinnati, 

See Routes from Baltimore to Cincinnati, 

See Routes from Boston to Cincinnati. 

Via Indianapolis and Cin. R. R. to Indianapolis ; Lafayette and Indianapolis to Lafayette ; 
Louisville, N. Albany and Chicago R. R. to Mich. City ; Mich. Central to Chicago. 

Route No. 1. — Tia Little Miami R. R. to Columbus, and Cleve. and Col. R. R. to Cleveland. 

Route No. 2. — Via Cin., Ham. and Dayton, Springfield, Mt. Vernon and Pitts'g R. R., and 
Cleveland, Columbus and Cin. R. R. 

See Routes from Baltimore to Cincinnati, and Baltimore to Charleston. 

Via Cin., Ham. and Dayton, and Dayton and Michigan R. R. 

Route No. 1. — Via Cin., Ham. and Dayton R. R., and Dayton and Michigan R. E. to Detroit; 
Grand Trunk Railway to Montreal. 

Route No. 2. — Via Niagara Falls ; via Cin., Ham. and Dayton, and Dayton and Michigan R.R. 
to Detroit; Great West'n R.R. to Niagara Falls, or via Hamilton to Toronto ; thence via 
"Grand Trunk R. R. ; or from Niagara Falls via Steamer down the St. Lawrence. 

Route No. 3. — To Cleveland by either Cleveland Routes ; Lake Shore to Buffalo, and N. Y. 
Central to Niagara Falls ; thence by Gt. West. R. E. and Grand Trunk R. R., or by Steamer 
on the Lakes and St. Lawrence to Montreal. 

Route No. L — Via Ohio and Miss, and Illinois Central to Cairo ; Steamboat to Columbus ; Mo- 
bile and Ohio to Junction ; Miss. Central to Canton ; and N. O., Jackson and Gt. Northern 
to New Orleans. 

Route No- 2. — Via Ohio and Miss. K. E. to Seymour ; Jeffersonville R. R. to Louisville ; Louis- 
ville and Lexington R. R. via Mammoth Cave, to Nashville ; Nashville and Chattanooga R.R. 
to Stevenson ; Memphis and Charleston R. R. to Junction. Here the traveller may continue 
on to Memphis, or journey direct to New Orleans, via Miss. Central and N. 0., Jackson and 
Gt. Northern E. E. 

See Routes from New York to Cincinnati. 

See Routes from Phila. to Cincinnati. 

Route No. 1.— Via Ohio and Miss. R. E. 

Routs No. 2. — Via Indianapolis and Cincinnati E. E. to Indianapolis ; and Terre Hants »nd 
Rich'd and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis R. E. to St. Louis. 

See Route from Baltimore to Cincinnati, and Baltimore to 'Washington. 



KOUTES from CHICAGO to the following Cities Alphahetlcally or- 

ranged. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 

See Albany to Chicago. 
See Baltimore to Chicago. 

Route No. 1.— Via Mich. Central, Gt, 'Western E, E., N, T, Central to Albany ; and 'WesterB 
E. E. to Boston. 



THEOUGH ROUTES., 



19 



From 

CHICAGO 

to 



Boston 

Charleston... 
Cincinnati ... 
Cleveland — 
Kansas 

Montreal 

Kew Orleans. 

« 

K"ew Xork.... 
PMladelphia 
St. Louis 



From 

MONTREAL 

to 

Albany 

Baltimore 

Boston 

Charleston 

Cincinnati 

Chicago 

New Orleans 



NewTork 

Philadelphia 

Quebec 

St. Louis 

«6 

Sasuenay Elver — 
St. Paul and St. An 

thony's Falls 

Washington, D. C. . 



EOUTES from CHICAGO tt the folloTving Cities Alphabetically sr. 

ranged— Continued. 

For full Thne Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 



Route No. 2. — Via Mich. Soutliern, Clevelancl and Toledo, Lake Shore and N. .Y. Central to 

Albany ; and "Western R. R. to Boston. 
See Routes from Bait, to Cliicago, and Bait, to Charleston. 
See Routes from Cincinnati to Chicago. 
Via Mich. Southern, and Cleveland and Toledo E. R. 
Chicago, Burlington and Quincy R. R. to Quincy and Hannihal ; Hannibal and St. Jo. E. R. to 

St. Josephs ; and Steamer to Kansas City and Leavenworth. 
Via Mich. Central to Detroit ; and Grand Trunk R. R. to Montreal. 
Route No. l. — Via Illinois Central to Cairo ; to Columbus by Steamboat ; Mobile and Ohio 

E. R. to Junction ; Miss. Central to Canton ; N. O. Jackson R. R. to New Orleans. 
Route No. 2.— Via_ St. Louis, Alton and Chicago E. E. to St, Louis ; and Steamboat to New 

Orleans. 
See Routes from New York to Chicago. 
See Routes from Philadelphia to Chicago, 
Via St. Louis, Alton and Chicago E. E. 



ROUTES from MONTREAL to the following Alphabetically arranged 

Cities. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway/ Guide. 

Route No. 1. — Via Montreal and Champlain E. E. to Eouse's Point; Cbamplain Steamer to 
Whitehall ; Saratoga and "Whitehall and Eensselaer and Saratoga E. E.'s to Albany. 

EOUTE No. 2. — Via Mont, and Champlain E.R. to Eouse's Point ; Ter't Central to Burlington ; 
Rutland and Burlington to Rutland; Troy and Boston to Troy; and Hudson Elver to Albany. 

See Routes to Albany, Albany to New York, and New York to Baltimore. 

See Routes from Boston to Montreal. 

Via Routes to Boston and New York, or Routes to New York ; thence by Eoutes from New 
York to Charleston ; or by Steamer from New York direct to Charleston. 

See Eoutes from Cincinnati to Montreal. 

See Eoutes from Chicago to Montfcal. 

EOUTE No. 1.— Via Grand Trunk R. E. to Oetroit ; Mich. Central to Chicago ; 111. Central 
R. R. to Cairo ; Steamboat to Columbus ; Mobile and Ohio E.E. to Junction ; Miss. Central 
to Canton, and No. Jackson to Gt. N. 

EouTE No. 2.— Via Grand Trunk to Detroit; Dayton and Michigan to Toledo; Toledo and 
"Wabash to Tolono ; and via 111. Central, and as in Eoute No. 1. 

EouTE No. 3.— Via Grand Trunk to Detroit; Dayton and Michigan to Sydney; Bellefontaine 
Eoute to Indianapolis , Terre Haute and Eich'd, and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to 
Matoon ; and Illinois Central, and as in Route No. 1 to New Orleans. 

Eoute No. 1.— Either of the Eoutes to Albany, and Eoute from Albany to New York. 

EouTE No. 2. — ViaMontreal and Champlain E.E. to Eouse'sPoint; via Ver. Central to "Wind- 
sor ; Cheshire E. R. and Conn. R.R. to Springfield; N. H., Hartford and Springfield Eoute 
to New Haven ; and New Haven R. R. to New York. 

See Eoutes to New York, and Eoute from New York to Philadelphia, 

Via Grand Trunk E. E., or by Steamer down the St. Lawrence. 

Eoute No. 1. — Via Eoute to Chicago ; and St. Louis, Alton and Chicago to St. Louis. 

Eoute No. 2.— Via same Eoute to Detroit ; and Detroit and Michigan to Toledoi; Toledo, "Wa- 
bash and Gt. "West'n to St. Louis. 

Via Steamer twice a week in Summer. 

Via Grand Trunk E. E. to Detroit ; Detroit and Milwaukee E. E. and Steamer to Milwaukee ; 
La Crosse and Milwaukee E. E. to La Crosse ; Steamer to St. Paul. 

Via Eoutes to New York ; Eoutes from New York to Bait., and Baltimore to "Washington, to 
Charleston, 



20 



THEOTTGH EOTJTES. 



From 

NEW YORK 

to 



it 
Cliarledton. 
Cincinnati . 

<< 



KOUTES from NEW TOKK to the folloiving Alphabetically arranged 

Xiist of Towns. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 



Albany • ■ • 
Buffalo ... 
<( 

lioston — 

a 

ti 

lialtlmorc 
Clileago .. 



DubuQue ••■ 

Kansas 

n 

Milwaukee 

<c 
Montreal ■ • • 



Nebraska City 

Newport 

< 

Niagara Falls. 



Via Hudson or Harlem E. E., or Steamtioatg. 

EOUTE No. 1- — Via Eoutes to Albany, and N. T. Central to EuEFalo." 

Route No. 2. — ^'ia New York and Erie, and Buffalo, New Torii and Erie. 

Route No. 1- — Via Boston Express, through New Haven, Hartford, Springfield and 'Worcester. 

EouTE No. 2. — Via the Shore Line, passing through New Haven, New London and Stonington. 

EouTE No. 3. — Via Steamboat to Stonington, and R. E. to Boston. 

EouTE No. 4. — Via Steamboat to Norwich, and E. E. to Boston. 

EouTE No. 5. — Via Fall River Steamboats, stopping at Newport, and Fall E.E. to Boston. 

Via N. Jersey R. E. to Phila., and Phil., Vil. and Bait. E. E. 

EoUTE No. 1.— Via Hudson E. E. or Harlem R. E. to Albany ; via N. Y. Central to Suspension 
Bridge ; Great 'Western to Detroit ; and Michigan Central to Chicago. 

Route No. 2. — Via Hudson Eiver or Harlem E. E. to Albany ; N. Y. Central to Bulfalo ; Lake 
Shore E.E. to Cleveland; Cleveland and Toledo E. E. to Cleveland; thence via Mich. 
Southern to Chicago. 

Route No. 3.— Via N. Y. and Erie E. E. to Dunkirls ; Lake Shore E. E. to Cleveland ; Cleve- 
land and Toledo E. E. to Toledo ; and Mich. Southern E. E. to Chicago. 

EouTE No. 4.— Via N. J. E. E. or Camden and Amboy to Philadelphia ; Pennsylvania E.E. to 
Pittsburg; and Pittsburg, Fort 'Wayne and Chicago E. E. to Chicago. 

Via N. J. E. E. or Camden and Amboy to Phila. ; Philad.elphia, AVilmington and Bait. E. E. to 
Baltimore. See Baltimore to Charleston. 

EouTE No. 1.— Via New Jersey E. E. or Camden and Amboy E. E. to Philadelphia ; Phil., 'Wil. 
and Bait. E. E. to Baltimore. See Eoutes from Bait, to Cincinnati. 

Route No. 2.— Via Erie E. E. to Dunkirk; Lake Shore to Cleveland; Cleve., Col. and Cin. 
E.E. to Columbus, and Little Miami to Cincinnati. 

Eoute No. 3.— Via Hudson Eiver or Harlem E. E. to Albany ; N. Y. Central to Buffalo ; Lake 
Shore to Cleveland ; Cleve., Col. and Cin. E. E. to Columbus, and Little Miami to Cincinnati 

Eoute No. 4.— Via Camden and Amboy or N. Jersey E. E. to Philadelphia; Penn. E. E.tp 
Pittsburg; Cleveland and Pittsburg E.E. to Steubenville Junction; Steubenville and In- 
diana E. E. to Newark; Central Ohio E. E. to Columbus ; Little Miami E.E. to Cincinnati. 

Via any of the Eoutes to Chicago ; via Galena and Chicago E. E. to Freeport ; Illinois Central 
E. E. to Dubuque. 

Eoute No. 1.— Via any of the^outes to Chicago ; Chicago, Burlington and Quincy E. E. to 
Quincy and Hannibal ; Hannibal and St. Jo. E. E. to St. Jo. and Kansas City. 

RotTTE No. 2. — Via any of the Eoutes to St. Louis ; Pacific E. E. to Jefferson City, and Steam- 
boat to Kansas City. 

Route No. 1.— Via Hudson Eiver or Harlem E. E. to Albany ; N. Y. Central to Suspension 
Bridge ; Great 'Western to Detroit ; Detroit and Milwaukee E. E. to Grand Haven ; thence 
by Steamboat on Lake to Milwaukee. 

Eoute No. 2. — Viaanyof the Eoutes to Chicago; and Chic, and Milwaukee E.E. to Milwaukee. 

Eoute No. 1.— Via Hudson E. E. or Steamers to Troy ; Rensselaer and Sar. R.E. to Saratoga 
Springs; Saratoga and TVhitehall R.E. to ■Whitehall ; Steamers to Rouse's Point; Mont, 
and Champ. E. E. to Montreal. 

Eoute No. 2.— Via Hudson E. E. or Steamboat to Troy; Troy and Boston, and Eutland and 
"Washington E. E. to Eutland ; thence via Eutland and Burlington E. E. to Burlington ; Ver- 
mont and Canada E.E. to Eouse's Point; and Montreal and Champlain E.E. to Montreal. 

Route No. 3.— See Eoute No. 2 Montreal to New York. 

Via any of the Eoutes to Chicago ; Chicago, Burlington and Quincy to Quincy and Hannibal.; 
Hannibal and St. Jo. E. E. to St. Josephs ; Steamboat to Nebraska and Omaha Cities. 

Eoute No. 1.— Via Fall Eiver Steamers, Pier 3 N. R., to Newport. 

Route No. 2. — Via Shore Line to New Haven, New London and Greenwich ; Steamboat from 
Greenwich. 

Route No. I.— Via Hudson Eiver, Harlem E. E, or Steamers to Albany"; and N. Y. Central to 
the Falls. 



IHEOTJGH EOUTES 



21 



From 

KEWTOKK 

to 



Niagara Falls. 
New Orleans . . 



Pike's Peat. 

St. l/ouls 



ROUTES from NEW TORK to the following Alphabetically arranged 
List of Towns — Continued. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 



From 

PHILADELPHIA 

to 

Albany 

Baltimore 

Hoston 

Charleston 

Cincinnati 

c« 

ti 

Chicago 

Montreal 



Route No. 2.— Via Erie E.E. to Buffalo, and N.T. Central to the Falls. 

Route No. 1. — See Route to Baltimore, and Routes from thence to New Orleans. 

Route No. 2.— Via an}' of the Routes to Chicago; Illinois Central to Cairo ; by Steamboat to 
Columbus ; JJobile and Ohio R. R. to Junction ; Miss. Central E. E. to Jackson, N. 0. Jacli- 
son and Great Northern to New Orleans. 

Route No. 3.— Via Erie R. E. to Dunkirk j or via Hudson Elver or Harlem E. E. to Albany, and 
thence by N. T. Central to Buffalo ; from Dunkirk or Buffalo, by Lake Shore Line, to Cleve- 
land ; Cleveland and Columbus to Crestline ; Bellefontaine Route to Indianapolis ; Terre 
Haute, Alton and St. Louis to Mattoon ; Illinois Central to Cairo ; Steamboat to Columbus ; 
Mobile and Ohio E. E. to Junction ; Miss. Central to Jackson, N. O. ; Jackson E. E. to New 
Orleans. 

Route No. 4.— Via N. J. R. E. to Phila. ; Penn. R. R. to Pittsburg ; Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and 
Chicago to Crestline, and as in Route No. 3 for the remaining portion of the route. 

Via any of the Routes to Chicago ; Chicago, Burlington and Quincy E. R. to Quincy and 
Hannibal ; Hannibal and St. Jo. R. R. to St. Josephs, or Leavenworth City; and Cai. Cen- 
tral Overland and Pike's Peak Express. 

i{OUTE No. 1.— Via Hudson River or Harlem E. E. to Albany ; N. Y. Central to Suspension 
Bridge or to Buffalo, connecting at Suspension Bridge with GV-eafWest'n and Mich. Central 
for Chicago, and at Buffalo with Lake Shore ; Cleveland and Toledo and Mich. Southern 
for Chicago, via St. Louis, Alton and Chicago E. R. to St. Louis. 

Route No. 2. — Via any of the Routes to Crestline; Bellefontaine to Indianapolis; Terre 
Haute and Richmond, and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to St. Louis. 

Route No. 3. — Via any of the Routes to Cincinnati ; thence via Ohio and Miss., or Indianapo- 
lis and Cin., and Terre Haute and Richmond, and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to St. 
Louis. 

Route No. 4. — Via any of the Routes to Philadelphia ; thence via Pennsylvania R.E. to Pitts- 
burg ; thence via Cleveland and Pittsburg R. R. to Steubenville •, thence via Pittsburg, Co- 
lumbus and Cincinnati R. R. to Newark ; thence via Central Ohio R. R. to Columbus ; 
thence via Dayton and Western and Indiana Central R. Rs. to Indianapolis; thence 
via Terre Haute and Richmond, and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis E. Rs. to St. 
Louis. 

Route No. 5. — Via Erie R. E., Lake Shore, and Cleveland and Toledo R. Es. to Toledo , or via 
Hudson River, N. T. Central, Lake Shore, and Cleveland and Toledo R. Es. to Toledo ; and 
thence by Toledo and Wabash, and Gt. Western R. Es. to Springfleld ; and St. Louis, Alton 
and Chicago E. E. to St. Louis. 



ROUTES from PMILADELPHIA to the following AlphabeticaUy ar- 

ranged Cities. 

For full Time Tables see Ajypletons'' Railway Guide. 

A''ia Camden and Amboy R. R. to New York; and Hudson Elver or Harlem E. E., or Boat on 

the Hudson to Albany. 
Via Phil., Wil. and Baltimore R. E. 

Via Camden and Amboy to New York, and either one of the 2 railway or 3 steamboat routes. 
Via Phil., Wil. and Bait. E.E. to Bait., and Route from BaUimore to Charleston. 
Route No. 1. — Via Penn. E.R. to Pittsburg; Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chic, to Crestline; 

Cleveland and Columbus to Columbus ; Little Miami to Cincinnati. 
Route No. 2.— Via Penn. R. R. to Pittsburg ; Pittsburg, Col. and Cin. R. R. to Columbus ; an* 

Little Miami to Cincinnati. 
Route No. 3.— Via Phil., Wil. and Baltimore E. E., and Routes from Bait, to Cincinnati. 
Via Penn. E. E. to Pittsburg ; and Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago E.E. to Chicago. 
See Route to New York, and Routes from New York to Montreal. 



22 



THEOTJGH EOUTES. 



From 

PniLAl>El,PHIA 

to 



Kew Orleans ■ 



New Tork 
Savannah 
St. Louis.. 



KOCTES from PHILAWEIiPHIA to the followine Alphahetlcally ar. 
ranged Cities— Continued. 

For full Time Tables see Appletons' Railway Guide. 



Route No. 1.— Via Penn. E. E. to Pittsburg; thence ty Pittsburg, Fort 'Wayne and Chi. E. E. 
to Crestline; thence yia Bellefontaine E. E. to Indianapolis; Terre Haute and Eichmond 
E. E. to Indianapolis ; Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to Matoon ; Illinois Central to 
Cairo ; Steamboat to Columbus ; Mobile and Ohio R. E. to Junction ; Miss. Central to Jack- 
son ; and N. O., Jackson and Gt Northern to New Orleans. 

EouTE No. 2.— The same Eoute to Crestline ; Cleve. and Col. E. E., and Little Miami to Cin- 
cinnati; thence by Ohio and Miss. E.E. to Odin; 111. Central to Cairo; and the remainder 
of the route as in Eoute No. 1. 

Eoute No. 3.— Yia Phil., Wil. and Bait, to Baltimore ; and either of the Routes from thence 
to New Orleans. 

Via Camden and Amboy E.E. 

Via Phil., 'Wil. and Bait. R.R., and Routes to Charleston ; thence by Steamer to Savannah. 

EotJTE No. 1.— Via Penn. R. R. to Pittsburg; thence Tia Pittsburg, Forfn''ayne and Chi. to 
Crestline ; thence by Bellefontaine to Indianapolis ; Terre Haute and Eichmond to Indian- 
apolis; Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to St. Louis. 

Eoute No. 2.— Via Penn. E. R. to Pittsburg ; via Pittsburg, Col. and Cin. to Newark ; thencB 
Tia Central Ohio to Columbus ; thence via Dayton and 'Western and Ind. Central to Indian- 
apolis; Terre Haute and Kich'd to Terre Haute; and Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis to 
St. Louis. 

Route No. 3.— Same Eoute to Columbus ; Little Miami to Cincinnati ; thence via Ohio and 
Miss., or Indianapolis and Cin. E. E. to Ind. ; and Terre Haute and Eich'd, and Terre Haute, 
Alton and St. Louis to St. Louis. 

SOUTE No. 4.— Via PJiil., 'Wil. and B»U., and any of tie Koutes from B*lt. to St. Lows. 



THE TEAVELLEe's MEMOEATsTDTJM. 



THE TEAVELLEES SrEMOEAXDTJir. 



BRITISH AMERICA. 



The possessions of the British Crown in ITorth America, occupy nearly all the upper half of 
the Continent ; a vast territory, reaching from the Arctic seas to the domains of the United 
States, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. Of this great region, our present explora- 
tions will refer only to the lower and settled portions, known as the British Provinces— the Cana- 
das, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia. The rest is for the most isart yet a wilderness. 

CANADA. 

Geography and Area. Canada, the largest and most important of the settled portions of 
the British territory in North America, lies upon all the northern border of the United States, 
from the Atlantic coast to the waters of Lake Superior and the Mississippi. The two provinces 
into which it is divided, were formerly known as Upper and Lower Canada, or Canada East and 
Canada West ; and thus, indeed, their difi'ering manners, habits and laws, still virtually divide 
and distinguish them, though they are now nominally and politically united. The entire length 
of the Canadian domain, from east to west, is between twelve hundred and thirteen hundred 
miles, with a breadth varying from two to three hundred miles. 

Discovery, Settlement, and Rulers. The earliest discovery of the Canadas is ascribed 
to Sebastian Cabot, 1497 ; Jacques Cartier, a French adventurer, spent the winter of 1541 at St. 
Croix, now the River St. Charles, upon which Quebec is partly built. The first permanent settle- 
ment, however, was at Tadousac, at the confluence of the Saguenay and the St. Lawrence. From 
that time (about 160S) until 1759, the country continued under the rule of France ; and then 
came the capture of Quebec by the English, under General Wolfe, and the transfer, within 
a year thereafter, of all the territory of New France, as the country was at that time called, to 
the British power, under which it has ever since remained. The mutual disagreement which 
naturally arose from the conflicting interests and prejudices of the two opposing nationalities, 
threatened internal trouble from time to time, and finally displayed itself in the overt acts re- 
corded in history as the rebellion of 1837. It was after these incidents, and aa a consequence 
thereof, that the two sections of the territory were formed into one. This happened in 1840. 

GovEKNiMENT. Canada is ruled by an executive, holding the title of Governor-General, re- 
ceived from the crown of Great Britain, and by a legislature called the Provincial Parliament. 
Tills body consists of an Upper and a Lower House ; the members of the one were formerly ap- 
pointed by the Queen, but now (as fast as those thus placed die) this body is, Uke the other branch, 
chosen by the people ; each for a term of eight years. 

Religion. The dominant religious faith in Lower Canada or Canada East, is that of the Rom- 
ish Church ; while in the upper province the creed of the English Establishment prevails. 

Landscape. The genera! topography of Upper or Western Canada, is that of a level country, 
with but few variations excepting the passag* of some table heights, extending south-westerly. 
It is the most fertile division of the territory, and thus, to the tourist in search of the picturesque, 
the least attractive. 

2 



26 



CANADA. 



The Lower Province, or Canada East, is extremely varied and beautiful in its physical aspect ; 
presenting to the delighted eye a magnificent gallery of charming pictures of forest wilds, vast 
prairies, hillfend rock-bound rivers, rushing waters, hold mountain heights, and all, every where 
intermingled, and their attractions embellished by intervening stretches of cultivated fields, and 
rural villages, and villa homes. 

MoTNTAiNS. The hill ranges of Canada are confined entirely to the lower or eastern province. 
The chief hues called the Green Mountains, follow a parallel course south-westerly. They lie 
along the St. Lawrence River, on its southern side, extending from the latitude of Quehec to the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence. There is another and corresponding range on the north side of the river, 
with a varying elevation of about 1,000 feet. The Mealy Mountains, which extend to Sandwich 
Bay, rise in snow-capped peaks to the height of 1,500 feet. The "Wotchish Mountains, a short, 
crescent-shaped group, lie between the Gulf of the St. Lawrence and Hudson's Bay. 

Rivers. Canada has many nohle and beautiful rivers, as the St. Lawrence, one of the great 
waters of the world ; the wild, mountain-shored floods of the Ottawa, and the Sagucnay ; and the 
lesser waters of the Sorel or Richelieu, the St. Francis, the Chaudi^re and other streams. 



The St. Lawrence. This grand river, 
which drains the vast inland seas of America, 
extends from Lake Ontario, 750 miles to the Gulf 
of St. Lawrence, and thence to the sea. Its en- 
tire length, including the great chain of lakes by 
which it is fed, is not less than 2,200 miles. Ships 
of the largest size ascend the river as far as 
Montreal. Its chief aflluents are the Saguenay, 
eastward, and the Ottawa on the west. The 
width of the St. Lawrence varies from about 
a mile to four miles ; at its mouth it is 100 miles 
across. It abounds in beautiful islands, of which 
there is a vast group, near its egress from Lake 
Ontario, known and admired by all the world as 
the " Thousand Isles." 

The Thousand Islands. It is a curious 
speculation to the voyager always, how his 
steamer is to find its way through the labyrinth 
of the thousand islands, which stud the broad 
waters like the countless tents of an encamped 
army, and ever and anon his interest is aroused 
up to the highest pitch at the prospective danger 
of the passage of some angry r.apid. All the 
journey east, from lake to lake of the great wa- 
ters, past islands now miles in circuit, and now 
large enough only for the cottage of Lilliputian 
lovers, is replete with ever-changing pleasure. 

Montreal and Quebec, the chief cities of Can- 
ada, are upon the St. Lawrence, while Toronto 
lies on the shores of Lake Ontario, the continu- 
ing waters westward. 

The Ottawa Eiver flows 800 miles and 
enters the St. Lawrence on both sides of the 
Island of Montreal, traversing in its way Lake 
Temiscaming, Grand Lake, and others. Rapids 
and falls greatly impede the navigation of its 
waters, but lend to them wonderful beauty. It 
is a wild forest region ; that of the Ottawa, but 
little occupied heretofore by others than the rude 
lumbermen, though numerous settlements are 



now springing up, and its agricultural capacities 
are being developed. 

The Committee on Railways of the House of 
Assembly of the Province, in its report, thus 
speaks of this river : — 

" At the head of the lake the Blanche River 
falls in, coming about 90 miles from the north. 
Thirty-four miles farther down the lake it re- 
ceives the Montreal River, coming 120 from the 
north-west. Six miles lower down, on the east 
or Lower Canada bank, it receives the Keepawa- 
sippi, a large river which has its origin in a lake 
of great size, hitherto but partially explored, and 
known as Lake Keepawa. This lake is connect- 
ed with another chain of irregularly shaped 
lakes, from one of which proceeds the river Du 
Moine, which enters the Ottawa about 100 
miles below the mouth of the Keepawa-sippi •, 
the double discharge from the same chain of 
lakes in opposite directions presents a phenome- 
non similar to the connection between the Ori- 
noco and Rio ISTegro in South America. Tho 
Keepawa-sippi has never been surveyed, but on 
a partial survey of the lake from which it pro- 
ceeds, it was found flowing out with a slow and 
noiseless current, verj' deep, and about 300 feet 
in width ; its middle course is unknown, but 
some rafts of timber have been taken out a 
few miles above the mouth. It is stated in the 
report from which we quote, that there is a cas- 
cade at its mouth 120 feet in height ; this is a 
fable ; the total descent from the lake to the Ot- 
tawa may be 120 feet, but there is no fall at the 
mouth of the river. 

" From the Long Sault at the foot of Lake 
Temiscaming, 233 miles above Bytown, and 360 
miles from the mouth of the Ottawa, down to 
Deux Joachim Rapids, at the head of the Deep 
River, that is for 89 miles, the Ottawa, vzith the 
exception of 17 miles below the Long Sanlt, and 



CANADA. 



27 



Bome other intervals, is not at present navigable 
except for canoes. Besides other tributaries in 
the interval, at 197 miles from Bytown, now 
called Ottawa, it receives on the west side the 
Mattawan, which is the highway for canoes go- 
ing to Lake Huron by Lake JSTipissing. From 
the Mattawan the Ottawa flows east by south to 
the head of Deep River reach, nine miles above 
which it receives the river Du Moino from the 
north. 

" From the head of Deep River, as this part of 
tlie Ottawa is called, to the foot of Upper AUu- 
mcttea Lake, two miles below the village of 
Pembroke, is an uninterrupted reach of navi- 
gable water, 43 miles in length. The general 
direction of the river in this part is south-east. 
The mountains along the north side of Deep 
River are upwards of 1,000 feet in height, and 
the many wooded islands of Allumettes lake 
render the scenery of this part of the Ottawa 
magnificent and exceedingly picturesque — far 
surpassing the celebrated lake of the Thousand 
Islands on the St. Lawrence. 

"Passing the short rapid of Allumettes, and 
turning northward, round the lower end of Al- 
lumettes Island, which is 14 miles long and 8 at 
its greatest width, and turning down south-east 
through Coulonge Lake, and passing behind the 
neai'ly similar islands of Calumet, to the head of 
the Calumet Falls, the Ottawa presents, with the 
exception of one slight rapid, a reach of 50 miles 
of navigp-ble water. The mountains on the north 
side of Coulonge lake, which rise apparently to 
the height of 1,500 feet, add a degree of grandeur 
to the scenery, which is in other respects beauti- 
ful and varied. In the Upper Allumettes Lake, 
115 miles from Ottawa, the river receives from 
the west the Petawawee, one of its largest tribu- 
taries. This river is 140 miles in length, and 
drains an area of 2,200 square miles. At Pem- 
broke, 9 miles lower down on the same side, an 
inferior stream, the Indian River, also empties 
itself into the Ottawa. 

" At the head of Lake Coulonge, the Ottawa 
receives from the north the Black River, 130 
miles in length, draining an area of 1,120 miles ; 
and 9 miles lower, on the same side, the river 
Coulonge, which is jirobably 160 miles in length, 
with a valley of 1,800 square miles. 

"From the head of the Calumet Falls to Port- 
age du Fort, the head of steamboat navigation, a 
distance of 8 miles, are impassable rapids. Fifty 
miles above the city, the Ottawa receives on the 
west the Bonnechere, 110 miles in length, drain- 
ing an area of 9S0 miles. Eleven miles lower, it 
receives the Madawaska, one of its greatest feed- 
ers, a river 210 miles in length, and draining 4,100 
square miles. 

" Thirty-seven miles above Ottawa there is an 



interruption to the navigation, caused by three 
miles of rapids and falls, to pass which a railroad 
has been made. At the foot of tne rapids, the 
Ottawa divides among islands into numerous 
channels, presenting a most imposing array of 
separate faUs. 

" Six miles above Ottawa begin the rapids ter- 
minating in the Ottawa Chaudiere Falls, which, 
inferior in impressive grandeur to the Falls of 
Niagara, are perhaps more permanently inter- 
esting, as presenting greater variety. 

" The greatest height of the Chaudiere Falls 
is about 40 feet. Arrayed in every imaginable 
variety of form in vast dark masses, in graceful 
cascades, or in tumbling spray, they have been 
well described as a hundred rivers struggling for 
a passage. Not the least interesting feature 
which they present is the lost Chaudicire, where 
a body of water greater in volume than the 
Thames at London, is quietly sucked down, and 
disappears imder ground. 

" At the city of Ottawa the river receives the 
Rideau from the west, running a course of 116 
miles, and draining an area of 1,350 square 
miles." 

The city of Ottawa, on the banks of the river, 
is thought to be excelled in the beauty of its po- 
sition, only by Qiiebec, on the St. Lawrence. 
From Barrack Hill here, the wide panorama in- 
cludes the Falls of the Chaudiere, the Suspen- 
sion Bridge, which connects the upper and lower 
provinces, the islanded stretch of the river above, 
and of the far-away mountain ranges. 

The Rideau Falls, near the mouth of the 
Rideau, just below the city of Ottawa, is a charm- 
ing scene. 

" A mile lower it receives, from the north, its 
greatest tributary, the Gatineau, which, with a 
course probably of four hundred and twenty 
miles, drains an area of twelve thousand square 
miles. For about two hundred miles the upper 
course of this river is in the unknown northern 
country. At the farthest point surveyed, two 
hundred and seventeen miles from its mouth, 
the Gatineau is still a noble stream, a thou- 
sand feet wide, diminished in depth but not in 
width. 

" Eighteen miles lower down, the Rivifire an 
Lievre enters from the north, after running a 
course of two hundred and sixty miles in length, 
and draining an area of four thousand one hundred 
miles. Fifteen miles belov/ it, the Ottawa receives 
theNorth and South Nation Rivers on either side, 
the former ninety-five and the latter a hundred 
miles in length. Twenty-two miles further, the 
River Rouge, ninety miles long, enters from the 
north. Twenty-one miles lower, the Riviere du 
Nord, a hundred and sixty miles in length, comes 
in on the same side ; and lastly, just above its 



28 



CANADA. 



mouth, it receives the River Assumption, which 
has a course of a hundred and thirty miles. 

" From Ottawa the river is navigable to Gren- 
ville, a distance of fifty-eight miles, where the 
rapids that occur for twelve miles are avoided 
by a succession of canals. Twenty-three miles 
lower, at one of the mouths of the Ottawa, a 
single lock, to avoid a slight rapid, gives a pas- 
sage into Lake St. Louis, an expansion of the 
St. Lawrence above Montreal. 

" The remaining half of the Ottawa's waters 
find their way to the St. Lawrence, by passing 
in two channels, behind the Island of Montreal 
and the Isle Jesus, in a course of 31 miles. They 
are interrupted with rapids ; still it is by one of 
them that all the Ottawa lumber passes to mar- 
ket. At Bout de r Isle, therefore, the Ottawa 
is finally merged in the St. Lawrence, a hun- 
dred and thirty miles below, from the city of Ot- 
tawa. 

Routes from Montreal up the Ottawa. — Steam- 
ers run daily, during the summer months, be- 
tween Montreal and Ottawa, and Kingston and 
Ottawa, via the Rideau Canal. Above Ottawa 
the traveller m.ay proceed by carriage or by 
stage, nine miles, to the vilLage of Aylmer, and 
thence by steamer to the Chats ; thence by rail- 
way, two miles ; then again by steamer to the 
Portage du Fort : now, wagons for awhile, and 
then again a steamer to Pembroke, and yet an- 
other from thence to Deux Joachims ; afterwards 
he must canoe it. The Ottawa may also be 
reached bj' railway- direct, from Prescott on the 
St. Lawrence, to Ottawa City. 

Tile Saguenay. The journey up this beau- 
tiful river may be made semi-wceklj*, by steamer 
from Quebec, or by the Grand Trunk railway, 
101 miles to St. Paschal Riviere du Loup, oppo- 
site the mouth of the Saguenay, and thence by 
steamer. The course of the Saguenay — between 
lofty and precipitous heights ; and in its upper 
part, amid rushing cataracts, is 12^ miles from 
Lake St. John to the St. Lawrence, which it 
enters 140 miles below Quebec. Large ships as- 
cend 60 miles. 

In the trip from Quebec to the Saguenay beau- 
ties, there are many interesting points to be 
noted in the preceding journey of 120 miles down 
the St. L.awrence ; the ancient-looking settle- 
ments on its banks, and the not less picturesque 
habitans of the cnuntrj'. A day's sail lands the 
voyager at Riviere du Loup, where he passes the 
night on board his steamer, waiting for the fol- 
lowing morning to resume his journej-. 

The Saguenay is a perfect!}' straight river, with 
grand pi-ecipices on either side. It has neither 
windings nor projecting blufis, nor sloping banks 
nor sandy shores like other rivers, nor is its stern, 
strange aspect varied by either village or villa. 



" It is," says a voyager thither, " as if the mouii' 
tain range had been cleft asunder, leaving a hor- 
rid gulf of 60 miles in length and 4,000 feet in 
depth, through the gray mica schist, and still 
looking fresh and new. One thousand five hun- 
dred feet of this is perpendicular cliff, often too 
steep and solid for the hemlock or dwarf-oak to 
find root ; in which case, being covered with col- 
ored lichens and moss, their fresh-looking frac- 
tures often appear, in shape and color, like 
painted fans, and are called the pictured rooks. 
But those parts more slanting are thickly cov- 
ered with stunted trees, spruce and map)le, and 
birch growing wherever they can find crevices 
to extract nourishment ; and the bare roots of 
the oak, grasping the rock, have a resemblance 
to gigantic claws. The bases of these clifi's lie 
far under water, to an tmknown depth. For 
many miles from its mouth no soundings have 
been obtained with two thousand feet of line ; 
and, for the entire distance of 60 miles, until you 
reach Ha Ha Baj', the largest ships can sail, 
without obstruction from banks or shoals, and, 
on reaching the extremity of the bay, can drop 
their anchor in 30 fathoms. The view up this 
river is singular in many respects ; hour after 
hour, as you sail along, precipice after precipice 
unfolds itself to view, as in a moving panorama ; 
and you sometimes forget the size and height of 
the objects you are contemplating, until reminded 
by seeing a ship of one thousand tons lying like 
a small pinnace under tlie towering cliff to which 
she is moored ; for, even in these remote and 
desolate regions, industry is at worli, and, al- 
though you cannot much discern it, saw-mills 
have been built on some of the tributary streams 
which fall into the Saguenay. But what strikes 
one most, is the absence of beach or strand, for 
except in a few places where mountain torrents, 
rushing through gloomy ravines, have washed 
down the detritus of the hills, and formed some 
alluvial land at the mouth, no coves, nor creeks, 
nor projecting rocks are seen in which a boat 
could find shelter, or any footing be obtained. 
The ch.aracteristio is a steep wall of roclt rising 
abruptlj' from the water ; a dark and desolate 
region, where all is cold and gloomy ; the moun- 
tains hidden with driving mist, the water black 
as ink, and cold as ice. No ducks nor sea-gulls 
sitting on the water, or screaming for their prey. 
No hawks nor eagles soaring overhead, although 
there is an abundance of what might be called 
' Eagle Cliffs.' No deer coming down to drii.k 
at the streams, no squirrels nor birds to be seen 
among the trees. No fly on the water, nor swal- 
lows skimming over the surface. It reminds 
you of 

'Tliat lake wliose gloomy shore 
Skj-lark never -warbled o'er.' 



CANADA. 



29 



Two living things you may see, Tsnt these are 
cold-blooded animals ; you may see the cold seal, 
spreading himself upon his clammy rook, watch- 
ini; for liis prey. You may see him malie his 
sullen plunge into the water, like to the Styx for 
blackness. You may see him emerge again, 
shaking his smooth oily sides, and holding a 
huge living salmon writhing in his teeth ; and 
you may envy the fellow faring so sumptuously, 
until you recollect that you have just had a 
hearty breakfast of fresh grilled salmon yourself, 
and that you enjoyed it as much as your fellow 
creature is now enjoying his raw morsel. And 
this is all you see for the first twenty miles, save 
the ancient settlement of Tadousac at the en- 
trance, and the pretty cove of L'Ance a I'Eau, 
■which is a fishing station. 

"Now you reach Cape Eternity, Cape Trinity, 
and many other overhanging cliffs, remarkable 
for having such clean fi'actures, seldom equalled 
for boldness and efl'ect, -which create constant ap- 
prehensions of danger, even in a calm ; but If 
you happen to be caught in a thunder-storm, the 
roar, and darkness, and flashes of lightning are 
perfectly frightful. At last you terminate your 
voyage at Ha Ha Bay ; that is, smiling or laugh- 
ing bay, in the Indian tongue, for you are per- 
fectly charmed and relieved to arrive at a beau- 
tiful spot, where you have sloping banks, a 
pebbly shore, boats, and wherries, and vessels 
riding at anchor ; birds and animals, a village, a 
church, French Canadians, and Scottish High- 
landers." 

After duly enjoying the pleasant " let down" 
from the high tragic tone of the landscape you 
have been so long gazing upon and wondering at, 
formed in the comparatively pastoral character 
of this upper region of the Ottawa, you return to 
your steamer, and descending the stern and sol- 
emn river, come again, at nightfall, to the Riviere 
du Loup, from whence you started in the morn- 
ing. This is the second day of your journey, and 
on the third you are back once more in Quebec. 

SPRINGS. 
The Caledonia Springs.— Hotels :— 

The Caledonia Springs, a place of much resort, 
are at the village of Caledonia, 72 miles from 
Montreal. Leave Montreal by the Lachine rail- 
way, and take the steamer to Carillon. At Point 
Fortune, opposite Carillon, on the other side of 
the Ottawa, take stage to the Springs, arriving 
the same evening. 

Plantag'enet Springs. Prom Montreal 
to Point Fortune, as in the route to the Cale- 
donia Springs ; and thence by stage, arriving 
same evening. Distance 88 miles. The con- 



sumption of the " Plantagenet water" is said to 
be very great. 

The St. Leon Springs are at the village 
of St. Leon, on the Riviere du loup, "en haut," 
between Montreal and Quebec ; 26 miles by stage 
from Three Rivers, a landing of ihe St. Lawrence 
steamers. 

St. Catharine's.— Hotels :— 

St. Catharine's, Canada West, on the Great 
"Western Railway, 11 miles from Niagara Falls, 
and 32 miles from Hamilton. See St. Catha- 
rine's in route from Montreal to Niagara via the 
St. Lawrence. 

WATERFALLS IN CANADA. 

Niagara. See chapter on the state of New 
York. 

Falls of Montraorenci. See Quebec. 

The Chaudiere Falls on the Ottawa. See 
Ottawa River. 

The Chaudiere Palls, Quebec. See City 
of Quebec. 

The Rideau Tails. See Ottawa river. 

The Falls of Shawanegan are on tho 
River St. Maurice, 25 miles from Three Rivers, 
on the St. Lawrence river, between Montreal 
and Quebec. The St. Maurice, 186 feet in 
breadth at this point, makes a perpendicular de- 
scent of about 200 feet. The imposing character 
of this scene is, as j-et, but little known. Be- 
tween the Falls and the town of Three Rivers, 
the St. Maurice affords excellent fishing. 

St. Anne's Falls are 24 miles below Que- 
bec. See Quebec. 

RAILWAYS. 

The Grand Trunk connects Montreal -with. 
Quebec, and each with Portland in Maine. 
From Montreal it follows the upper shore of the 
St. Lawrence and of Lake Ontario to Toronto, 
and thence continues westward, across the pen- 
insula of Canada West, via Port Sarnia, on the 
southern extremity of Lake Huron to the city 
of Detroit in Michigan. The whole length of 
the road, with its present branches, is 1050 miles. 
It connects with routes to Niagara Falls, with 
the line of the Great Western Railway, and with 
the routes Mississiijpiwards. 
• The Great Western Railway extends from Ni- 
agara Falls, 229 miles west to Detroit, Michigan, 
connecting with the Michigan Central route for 
Chicago, &o. 

The Montreal and New York road extends 
from Montreal 67 miles to Plattsljurg, and is a 
part of a route from Montreal to New York. 

The Champlain and St. Lawrence extends 



30 



CANADA. 



from Montreal, 44 miles, to Rouse's Point on 
Lake Champlain, thence to New York, Boston, 
&c. 

The Northern Railway of Canada extends 94 
miles from Toronto on Lake Ontario to CoUing- 
wood on the Georgian Bay, Lake Huron. A 
part of a pleasant route from New York to Lake 
Superior. 

The Ottawa and Prescott Railway extends 
from Prescott (opposite Ogdensburg) on tlie St. 
Lawrence, 54 miles to Ottawa, on the Ottawa 
river. 

The Hamilton and Toronto road extends SS 
miles from Toronto to Hamilton, connecting the 
Grand Trunk and the Great "Western routes. 

The Coburg and Peterboro' Railway, 28 miles 
from Peterboro' to Coburg, on the line of the 
Grand Trunk, between Montreal and Toronto. 

Many other routes are either in progress or in 
contemplation — Canada vyingwith the " States" 
in this field of enterprise. 

MONTREAL. 

Hotels. The Donegana, Notre-Dame street ; 
the St. Lawrence, Great St. James street, a fine 
house, centrally located ; the Ottawa, Great St. 
James street ; and the Montreal House, Custom 
House square, and opposite the Custom House. 
Besides these leading establishments, there are 
many other comfortable houses and cafes, where 
travellers of all ranks and classes may be lodged 
and regaled according to the varied humors of 
their palates and their purses. We forbear to 
name too many, lest the bewildered stranger 
shuuld, in the verj' abundance of the good things 
placed before him, starve while choosing. 

Montreal may be reached daily from New 
York in from is to 18 hours, by the Hudson 
River or Harlem railway to Troy ; rail to White- 
hall, and steamer on Lake Champlain, or by rail 
through Vermont via Rutland, Burlington and 
St. Alban's to Rouse's Point, or via Plattsburg 
on Lake Champlain. From I3oston via Albany, 
or other routes to Lake Champlain, &c. ; or, via 
Portland and the Grand Trunk railway. 

Montreal, the most populous city in British 
North America, is picturesquely situated at the 
foot of the Royal Mountain, from which it takes 
its name, upon a large island at the confluence 
of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, which, both in 
fertility and cultivation, is considered the garden 
of Canada East. The main branch of the Otta- 
wa, which is the timber highway to Quebec, 
passes north of Montreal Island, and enters the 
Bt. Lawrence aliout 18 miles below the city ; 
about one-third of its waters is, however, dis- 
charged into Lake St. Louis, and joining but not 
mingling at Caughnawaga, the two distinct bo- 
dies pass over the Sault St.Louis and tho Lachine 



Rapids— the dark waters of the Ottawa washing 
the quays of Montreal, while the blue St. Law- 
rence occupies the other shore. Nor do they 
merge their distinctive character until they are 
several miles below Montreal. The quays of 
Montreal are unsurpassed by those of any city in 
America ; built of solid limestone, and uniting 
with tho locks and cut stone wharves of the Lar 
chine Canal, they present for several miles a dis- 
play of continuous masonry, which has few par- 
allels. Unlike the levees of the Ohio and the 
Mississippi, no unsightly warehouses disfigure 
the river side. A broad terrace, faced with gray 
limestone, the parapets of which are surmounted 
with a substantial iron railing, divides the city 
from the river throughout its whole extent. 

The people in Montreal number over 75,000, 
and the population is steadily increasing. The 
houses in the suburbs are handsomely built in 
the modern style, and mostly inhabited by the 
principal merchants. Including its siiburbs, of 
which it has several, the city stretches along the 
river for two miles from s. w. to n. e., and, for 
some distance, extends between one and two 
miles inland. It was formerly surrounded by a 
battlemented wall ; but this having fallen into 
decay, it is now entirely open. St. Paul St., the 
chief commercial thoroughfare, extends along 
the river the whole length of tho city. Great St. 
James and Notre-Dame streets are the fashiona- 
ble promenades. 

The Victoria Bridge which spans the great 
St. Lawrence at Montreal, is one of the noblest 
structures which we shall see in the whole long 
course of our American journcyings. Its length 
is 10,284 feet, or nearly two miles. It rests, in 
this splendid transit, upon 24 piers . and two 
abutments of solid masonrj', the central span 
being 330 feet in length. The heavy iron tubes 
through which the railway track is laid is, in its 
largest dimensions 22 feet high and 16 feet wide. 
The total cost of this bridge was over six millions 
of dollars. It has been recently completed, and 
was formally opened, with high pomp and cere- 
mony, amidst great popular rejoicings, by tho 
young heir to the British Crown, the Prince of 
Wales, during his visit, in the summer of 1860, 
to America. 

The French Cathedral. Of the public build- 
ings, the most remarkable is the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, Place d'Armes, constructed in the 
Gothic style, with a length of 255J feet, and a 
breadth of 134^ feet. It has two towers, each of 
which has a noble elevation of two hundred and 
twenty-five feet. The view from these towers — 
embracing the city and its suburbs, the river, 
and the surrounding country — is exceedingly 
beautiful. The principal window of the Cathe- 
dral is 64 feet high and 32 broad. Of the vast- 



CANADA. 



31 



ness of the interior of this edifice an idea may- 
be formed from the fact that it is capable of ac- 
commodating eight or nine thousand persons. 
This immense assembly ma}^, by numerous out- 
lets, disperse in five or six minutes. 

llie Seminary of St. Sulpice, adjoining the 
Cathedral, is 132 feet long, and 29 deep, and is 
surrounded by spacious gardens and court yard. 
The Bank of Montreal a7id the City Bank, the 
first a fine example of Corinthian architecture, 
stand side by side on the square called the Place 
d'Armes. 

St. Patrick^s Church (Catholic) occupies a 
commanding position at the west end of Lagau- 
chctiere street. 

The Bishop^s Church (Catholic) is a very ele- 
gant structure in St. Denis street. 

The remaining Catholic churches are the 
EecoUet, in Notre Dame street, the Bonsecours, 
near the large market, and the St. Mary's in 
Grifflntown. There are also chapels attached to 
all the ZSTunneries, in some of which excellent 
pictures may be seen. 

Nimneries. The Grey Nuns, in Poundling 
street, was founded in 1692, for the care of luna- 
tics and children. The Hotel Dieu was estab- 
lished in 1644, for the sict generally. The Black, 
or congregational nunnery, in Notre Dame street, 
dates from 1659. The Sisterhood, at this third 
and last of the conventual establishments of 
Montreal, devote themselves to the education of 
young persons of their own sex. 

The stranger desirous of visiting either of the 
nunneries should apply to the Lady Superior for 
admission, which is seldom refused. 

The Protestant churches worthy of notice are 
St. Andrew's Church, a beautiful specimen of 
Gothic architecture, being a close imitation of 
Salisbury Cathedral, in England, though of 
course on a greatly reduced scale. This, with 
St. Paul's Church, in St. Helen street, are in 
connection with the Established Church of Scot- 
land. The Episcopalian churches are, the beau- 
tiful new edifice Christ Church Cathedral, St. 
George's Church, in St. Joseph street, St. Ste- 
phen's, in GrifBntown, Trinity in St. Paul street, 
and St. Thomas's, in St. Mary street. Various 
other denominations of Christians have churches 
— the Weslcyans, a large and very handsome 
building, in St. James street, and also others in 
Griffintown and Montcalm street ; the Indepen- 
dents formerly had two houses, but now only the 
one in Radegonde street. This last was the scene 
of the sad riot and loss of life on the occasion of 
Gavazzi's lecture in 1S52. The Free Church has 
also two places of worship, one in Cote street ; 
and one in St. Gabriel street ; besides these, there 
are the American and the United Presbyterian, 
the Baptist, and the Unitarian Churches ; a 



small Jewish Synagogue, the last named being 
classical in design. 

Directly opposite the city is the wharf of the 
New York and St. Lawrence Railway Company. 
Below Nun's Island are seen the gigantic piers 
of the Tubular Bridge, a wonderful structure, 
which spans the great St. Lawrence. 

The JBonsecours Market is an imposing Doric 
edifice, erected at a cost of §280,000. In one of the 
upper stories are the Oflices of the Corporation 
and Council Chamber, and a concert or ball-room 
capable of seating 4,000 people. The view from 
the dome of this structure, overlooking the river 
and St. Helen's isle, are well worth the seeing. 

At the head of Place Jacques Cartier there is 
a column erected to the memory of the naval 
hero. Lord Nelson. 

The Court House is one of the most striking 
of the architectural specialties of the city. 

The Post Office is in Great James street. 

The Custom House is a neat building on the 
site of an old market-place, between St. Paul 
street and the river. 

The Merchants' Exchange and Reading-Room 
are in St. Sacrament street. The latter is a large 
and comfortable room, well supplied with news- 
papers and periodicals, English and American, 
all at the service of the stranger when properly 
introduced. 

The General Hospital and St. Patrick''s are in 
Dorchester street ; the latter, however, at the 
west end of the town. 

M^GiWs College is beautifully situated at the 
base of the mountain. The High School depart- 
ment of the college is in Belmont street. 

The city also possesses, besides the University 
of McGill's College, many excellent institutions 
for the promotion of learning— French and En- 
glish seminaries, a royal grammar-school, with 
parochial, union, national, Sunday and other 
pubUc schools. It has numerous societies for 
the advancement of religion, science, and in- 
dustry ; and several public libraries. 

The Water- Works, a mile or so from the city, 
are extremely interesting for their own sake, 
and for the fine view of the neighborhood to be 
seen thence. 

The Mount Royal Cemetery is two miles from 
the city, on the northern slope of the mountain. 
From the high road round its base, a broad ave- 
nue through the shaded hill-side gradually as- 
cends to this pleasant spot. 

There are other romantic burying-grounds, 
both of the Catholic and the Protestant popula- 
tion, in the vicinity of Montreal, and other scenes 
which the visitor should enjoy — pleasant rides 
all about, around the mountain and by the river, 
before he bids good-bye to the Queen City of 
Canada. 



32 



CANADA. 



QUEBEC. 

Hotels. The leading hotels are Russell's, and the 
Clarendon. Russell's is iu Palace street, Upper 
Town, and is the favorite head-quarters of Amer- 
ican tourists, ■while the English establish them- 
selves generally at the Clarendon, on St. Louis 
street. 



Qnehcc m.ay be pleasantly reached from Now 
York, via Boston to Portland, Maine, and thence 
317 miles hy the Grand Trunk Railway, total 
distance, by this route, from New York to Que- 
bec, 650 miles ; or, from New York by the Hud- 
son River Railway or steamboats ; or by the 
Ilarlem Railway to Albany, thence to "Whitehall, 
thence on Lake Champlain to Plattsburg, thence 
by the Montreal and New York Railway to 
Montreal, and from Montreal by steamer down 
the St. Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk Rail- 
way. Distance by railway, from Montreal to 
Quebec, 16S miles. There are other railway 
routes from Boston to Quebec, via Albany, or 
by the Vermont Central and Vermont and Can- 
ada lines through St. Albans to Montreal 

Quebec is the capital of United Canada, and, 
after Montreal, the most populous city in British 
North America. It is upon the left bank of the 
St. La^vrence river, and some 340 miles from the 
Ocean. 

The city was founded in 1608, by the geogra- 
"■pher, Champlain. It fell into the possession of 
the British in 1019, but was restored three years 
later. The English made an unsuccessful at- 
tempt to regain possession in 1690, but it did not 
finally come into their hands until taken by 
General Wolfe in 1759. 

The city is divided Into two sections, caUed 
the Upper and the Lower Towns ; the Upper 
Town occupying the highest part of the promon- 
tory, which is surrounded by strong walls and 
other fortifications ; and the Lower Town, being 
built around the base of Cape Diamond. The 
latter is the business quarter. 

The Citadel, a massive defence, crowning the 
summit of Cape Diamond, covers about 40 acres 
with its numerous buildings. Its impregnable 
position makes it perhaps the strongest fortress 
on this continent ; and the name of the " Gibral- 
tar of America" has been often given to it not in- 
aptly. The access to the Citadel is from the 
Upper Town, the walls of which are entered 
by five gates. Near the Palace gate is the Hos- 
pital and a large Guard House. By St. Louis 
gate, on the south-west, the tourist will reach 
the memorable Plains of Abraham, the scene 
of Wolfe's victory and death, in the year 1759. 



The Prescott Gate is the only entrance on the 
St. Lawrence side of the fortress. 

The view from the Citadel is remarkably fine, 
taking in, as it does, the oppiosite banks of tljo 
great river through many picturesque miles up 
and down. The promenade here, on the ram- 
parts above the esplanade, is charming. In the 
public garden, on Des Carrierres street, there is 
an obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Mont- 
calm. 

T/ie Parliament House. Among the chief 
public edifices of Quebec is the New Parliament 
House, which supplies the place of the building 
destroyed by fire in 1854. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral was erected 
under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, 
and was consecrated in 1666. It is 216 feet long, 
and ISO feet in breadth. 

The Ursuline Convent and the Church of St. 
Ursula are agi-eeable buildings, encompassed 
by pleasant gardens. This establishment was 
founded in 1639, and holds a high position in the 
public esteem. It contains a Superior, fifty 
nuns, and six novices, who give instruction in 
reading, writing, and needle work. The convent 
was destroyed by fire in 1650, and again in 1686. 
The remains of the Marquis de Montcalm are 
buried here. 

The Artillery Barracks form a. range of stone 
buildings 5,000 feet iu length. 

Durham Terrace is the site of the old castle of 
St. Louis, which was entirely consumed by fire 
in 1834. 

The English Protestant Cathedral, consecrated 
in 1804, is one of the finest modern edifices of the 
city. 

St. Andreip's Church, in St. Anne street, is in 
connection with the Scotch Establishment. The 
Methodists have a chapel in St. Stanislaus' 
street, and anotb.er in St. Louis suburb, called 
the Centenary Chapel. / 

The Lower Town. The passage from the 
Upper to the Lower TowTi is by the Prescott 
gate. It ia in this portion of the eitj^ that the 
traveller will find the Exchange, the Post Ofiice, 
the Banks, and other commercial establish- 
ments. 

The Plains of Abraham may he reached 
via the St. Louis Gate, and the counterscrap on 
the left, leading to the glacis of the citadel ; 
hence towards the right ; approaching one of the 
Mertello Towers, where a fine view of the St. 
Lawrence opens. A little beyond, up the right 
bank, is the spot where General Wolfe fell on 
the famous historic ground of the Plains of 
Abraham. It is the highest ground, and is sur- 
rounded by wooden fences. Within an enclo- 
sufre lower down is a stone well, from which 
water was brought to the dying hero. 



CANADA. 



33 



Wolfe's Cove, tlio Rpot where Montgomery 
was killed, aud other scenes, telling tales of the 
memorable past, will be pointed out to the trav- 
eller in this neighborhood. 

Tlie Mount Hermon Cemetery is about 
three miles I'rom the city, on the south side of 
the St. Louis Road. The grounds are 32 acres 
in extent, sloping irregularly but beautifully 
down the precipices which overhang the St. 
Lawrence. They were laid out by the late Major 
Douglass, of the U. S. Engineers, who had pre- 
viously displayed his skill and taste in the ar- 
rangements of the Greenwood Cemetery, near 
JSTcw York. 

XiOrette. To see Lorette may be made the 
motive of an agreeable excursion from Quebec, 
following the banks of the St. Charles. 

Lake St. Charles is four miles long, and 
one broad. It is divided by projecting ledges 
into two parts. It is a delightful spot. In iis 
natural attractions, and in the fine sport it 
affords to the angler. 

Th.e Falls of Montmorenci, eight miles 
distant, are among the chief delights of the vic- 
inage of Quebec. The river here is 60 feet wide, 
and the descent of the torrent 250 feet. 

" The etiect of the view of these falls upon the 
beholder is most delightful. The river at some 
distance, seems suspended in the air, in a sheet 
of billowy foam, and contrasted, as it is, with the 
black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an 
object of the highest interest. The sheet of foam 
which first breaks over the ridge, is more and 
more divided as it plunges and is dashed against 
the successive layers of rook, which it almost 
completely veils from view ; the spray becomes 
very delicate and abundant, from top to bottom, 
hanging over, and revolving around the torrent, 
till it becomes lighter and more evanescent than 
the whitest fleecy clouds of summer, than the 
finest attenuated web, than the lightest gossamer, 
constituting the most airy and sumptuous dra- 
pery that can be imagined. Yet, like the dra- 
pery of some of the Grecian statues, which, 
while it veils, exhibits more forcibly the form be- 
neath, this does not hide hut exalts the effect 
produced by this noble cataract. 

" Those who visit the falls in the winter, see 
one fine feature added to the scene, although 
they may lose some others. The spray freezes, 
and forms a regular cone, of 100 feet and upwards 
in height, standing immediately at the bottom of 
the cataract, like some huge giant of fabulous 
notoriety." 

The extraordinary formation called the Natu- 
ral Steps, will not fail to interest the visitor at 
Montmorenci. 

The Falls of St. Anne, in the river St. 
Anne, 24 miles below Quebec, are in a neighbor- 



hood of great picturesque beauty. Starting from 
the city in the morning betimes, one may visit 
Montmorenci nicely, and proceed thence the 
same evening to St. Anne. Next morning after 
a leisurely survej' of these cascades, there will 
be most of the day left to get back, with any 
detours that I'iiay seem desir.able, to Quebec. 

The Falls of the Chandiere are reached 
via Point Levi. The rapid river plunges over 
a precipice of 130 feet, presenting very mucli the 
look of boiling water, from whence its name of 
chaudiere or caldron. The cataract is broken 
into three separate parts by the intervention of 
huge projecting rocks, but it is reunited before it 
reaches the basin beneath. 

We take our leave of this venerable city, its 
unique natural beauties, and its winning stories, 
with the remembrance of some of the impres- 
sions it made upon Professor Silliman, when he 
visited it years ago : — " Quebec," he writes, " at 
least for an American city, is certainly a very 
peculiar place. A military town — containing 
about 20,000 inhabitants— most compactly and 
permanently built^environed, as to its most im- 
portant parts, by walls and gates— and defended 
by numerous heavy cannon — garrisoned by 
troops ha^dng the arms, the costume, the music, 
the discipline of Europe — foreign in language, 
features, and origin, from most of those whom 
they are sent to defend — founded upon a rook, 
and in its highest parts overlooking a great ex- 
tent of country — between 300 and 400 miles from 
the ocean — in the midst of a great continent, aud 
yet, displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen in 
its fine capacious bay — and showing all the bustle 
of a o**owded seaport — its streets narrow, popu- 
lous, and winding up and down almost moun- 
tainous declivities — situated in the latitude of 
the finest parts of Europe— exhibiting in its en- 
virons the beauty of an European capital — and 
yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia 
— governed by a people of different language and 
habits from the mass of the population — opposed 
in religion, and yet leaving that population with- 
out taxes, and in the full enjoyment of every 
privilege, civil and religious." 

Toronto, on Lake Ontario, and the line of the 
Grand Trunk Railwaj' ; from Quebec, 501 miles ; 
from Montreal, 333 miles ; from Hamilton, 38 
miles ; from Niagara Falls, 81 miles. For de- 
scription, see Toronto, in route from Montreal to 
Niagara, via the St. Lawrence. 

Kingston, at the foot of Late Ontario, on 
the St. Lawrence, and on the line of the Grand 
Trunk Railway ; from Quebec, 341 miles ; from 
Montreal, 173 miles ; from Toronto, 160 miles. 
See Kingston in route from Montreal to Niagara. 

Hamilton, near the eastern terminus of the 
Great Western Railway, at the head of Lake 



34 



OAKADA. 



Ontario ; from Quebec, 539 miles ; from Mon- 
treal, 371 miles ; from Toronto, 38 ; from Nia- 
gara, 43. See route from Montreal to Niagara. 

liOndon is a prosperous town, midway on the 
line of the Great Western Railway, in its tra- 
verse of the peninsula of Canada West from 
Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. Distant from 
Niagara FaUs, 119 miles, west ; from Hamilton, 
76 miles ; from Toronto, 114 miles ; from Mon- 
treal, 447 miles ; from Quebec, 615 miles. In 
1820, the present site of London was a wilder- 
ness, occupied by the savages and the wild deer ; 
now its population exceeds 12,000. Like Hamil- 
ton, Toronto, and all the growing towns of Can- 
ada, it is well built, upon wide streets, and with 
elegant and substantial architecture. 

MONTREAL TO NIAGARA FALLS ; TIP 
THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER AND 
LAKE ONTARIO. 

The traveller may go from Montreal to Niagara, 
either by steamer on the St. Lawrence, or by the 
Grand Trunk Railway, 333 miles to Toronto on 
Lake Ontario. At Toronto he may cross the 
western end of the lake to the town of Niagara, 
and thence reach the Falls by the Erie and Ontario 
Railway 14 miles long; or he may go less direct- 
ly, bj' water or by rail to Hamilton, and thence 
by rail again to the Falls. 

Up the St. Lawrence from, Montreal. 
See rivers of Canada for general mention of the 
St. Lawrence. 

Lachine. From Montreal the traveller will 
proceed nine miles to Lachineby railway, avoid- 
ing tlie rapids which the steamers sometimes 
descend. At Lachine is the residence of Sir 
George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay 
Company and of the officers of this, the chief 
post of that corporation. It is from this point 
that the orders from head-quarters in London 
are sent to all the many posts throughout the 
vast territory of the Company ; and near the end 
of April each year a body of trained voyageurs 
Bet out hence in large canoes, called Tnaitres 
ca7iots, with packages and goods for the various 
posts in the wilderness. Two centuries ago, the 
companions of the explorer Cartier on arriving 
here, thought they had discovered a route to 
China, and expressed their joy in the exclama- 
tion of La Chine 1 Hence, the present name, or 
BO at least says tradition. A costlj^ canal over- 
comes the obstruction of the rapids at Lachine. 

The "Village of tlieKapids; or, Caug-li- 
nawaga. An Iroquois settlement lies opposite 
Lachine, at the outlet of the expansion of the 
river called Lake St. Louis. The Indians at 
Caughnawaga, subsist chiefly by navigating 
barges and rafts down to Montreal, and in win- 



ter, by a trade in moccasins ; snow-shoes. &c. 
They are mostly Roman Catholics, and possess 
an elegant church. 

Lake St. Louis. The brown floods of the 
Ottawa assist in forming this great expanse of 
the St. Lawrence. They roll unmixed through 
the clearer water of the great river. On the 
northern shore of Lake St. Louis is the island of 
Montreal, 30 miles long. At the western ex- 
tremity is Isle Parrot. The Cascade Rapids sepa- 
rate the expanse just passed from Lake St. Fran- 
cis. The Beauharnois Canal here is llj miles in 
length, and has nine locks. 

Lake St. Prancis, into which the voyager 
now enters, extends 40 miles. Midway on the 
right, is the village of Lancaster, where a pile 
of stones or cairn has been thrown up in honor 
of Sir John Colborne, formerly Governor-Gene- 
ral of Canada, now Lord Seaton. Leaving Lake 
St. Francis, we pass the passage of the celebrated 
Long SauU rapidC Here, too, is the Cornwall 
Canal, ll-J miles in length, with 7 locks of noble 
size. 

Cornwall is a pleasant town, formerly called 
" Pointe Maline," in memento of the labor of 
ascending the river at this point. 

The Villag-e of St. Regis lies across from 
Cornwall. It forms the boundary between Can- 
ada and the State of New York, and also inter- 
sects the tract of land occupied by the 1,00'0 
Iroquois, American and British, who dwell here. 

Dickenson Landing is at the head of the 
Cornwall Canal, within the space of the 38 miles 
which follow to Prescott ; the villages of Mouli- 
NETTE, Maria Town, and Matilda, are succes- 
sively passed. 

The Battle Field of Chryseler's 
Parm, where the Americans met a defeat in 
the last war, lies a little above Maria Town. 

Prescott is rapidly recovering its prestige 
lost when the construction of the Bideau Canal 
won its trade away to Kingston ; for now a rail- 
way from New Tork approaches it at Ogdens- 
burg, and another connects it with Ottawa city, 
on the Ottawa river. Besides which advantages, 
it is on the line of the Grand Trunk route. From 
Prescott maybe seen the windmill and the ruined 
houses, mementoes of the attempt atinvasion by 
Schultz and his band in 1838. 

OgdenslDTirg, New Tork, the western termi- 
nus of the Northern Railway from Lake Cham- 
plain, is opposite Prescott. 

Maitland, built upon the site of an old 
French fort, is seven miles above Prescott. 

Brockville is yet five miles more, onward. 
It is one of the best built towns in Canada West. 

Grananocine is 32 miles above Brockville. 

At Kingston, 20 miles yet beyond Gananoque, 
we leave the St. La%vrenoe, and approach the 



CANADA. 



35 



waters of Lake Ontario. In descending the river, 
the wonderful labj'rinth of the Thousand Isles is 
passed just east of Kingston. "Wolfe's Island, a 
well-cultivated spot, is opposite Kingston. 

Kingston.— Hotels -.—KenVs British Amer- 
ican; Jruii's Hotel. 

The city of Kingston, modern as it appears, 
looks far hack for its history, as its advantageous 
locale did not fail to attract the notice of the 
early French discoverers. It was once occupied 
as a small fort called Cataraqui, otherwise known 
as Frontenac, and was the scene of various sieges 
and exploits before it passed with all the terri- 
tory of the Canadas from French to British rule. 
It was from this point that murderous espedi- 
tiops were made hy the Indians in the olden 
times against Albany and other Enghsh settle- 
ments of New York ; which in turn sent back 
here its retributive blows. The present city was 
founded in 1783. It has now a population of 
about 16,000. Among its objects of interest are 
the fortifications of Fort Henrj^, on a hill upon 
the eastern side of the harbor ; four ' fine Mar- 
tello Towers off the town ; and other defensive 
works ; the University of Queen's College ; the 
Roman CathoUc College of Regiopolis ; and the 
Provincial Penitentiary a little to the west of the 
city. 

As the navigation of the St. Lawrence ends at 
Kingston, the river boats are exchanged here for 
others more suited to the lake voyages. 

Lake Ontario — American ehore.^Let us, 
before we enter the great waters of Ontario, say 
a word to the traveller who may prefer to make 
the voyage along the American or lower shore of 
the lake. From the boundary line 45° the entire 
littoral is in the State of New York. 

Frencli Creek comes into the St. Lawrence 
as we leave it. It was here that General "Wil- 
kinson embarked (November 1813) with 7,000 
men, with the purpose of descending the river 
and attacking Montreal. A week subsequently, 
an engagement took place near "Williamsburg, on 
the Canadian side, when the Americans came 
off but poorly. General Wilkinson being disap- 
pointed in his espectation of reinforcements 
from Plattsburg, retired to French Mills, and 
there went into winter-quarters. This place was 
afterwards naTned Fort Covington, in memory 
of General Covington, who fell at the battle of 
Williamsburg. 

Sackett's HarToor, (N. Y.,) lies 20 miles 
below the mouth of French Creek. It is on the 
eastern extremity of the lake, on the south side 
of Black River Bay. This was the naval station 
of the United States during the English and 
American "War of 1812. In May, 1813, Sir George 
Prevost made a landing with 1,000 troops, but 



re-embarked without accomplishing any thing. 
The Navy Yard here is a prominent object as we 
land. 

Oswego. — Hotels — The American. 

Oswego, (N. Y.,) is the chief commercial port 
on the American shore of Ontario. It is very 
agreeably situated at the mouth of the Oswego 
river. The Oswego Canal comes in here (38 
miles) from Syracuse, and the railway, also, from 
the same place. 

Charlotte, the port of the city of Rochester, 
(N. Y.,) is at the approach to Lake Ontario, of 
the beautiful Genesee river. (See " Rochester.") 

From the mouth of the Genesee to Fort Niag- 
ara, a distance of 85 miles, the coast now 
presents a monotonous and forest-covered level, 
with a clearing only here and there. 

Having now peeped at the American, or south- 
ern shore, we will go back to Kingston, and 
start again on the upper side of the lake, making 
first for Toronto, 165 miles distant ; from Mont- 
real, 333 miles. 

Coburg, with a population of about 5,000, is 
70 miles from Toronto, and 90 miles from King- 
ston. It has many and varied manufactories. A 
railway from Peterboro' (30 miles distant) comea 
in here. In the vicinage is the Victoria College, 
founded by Act of the Provincial Legislature in 
1842. 

Port Hope is seven miles above Coburg. 
From this point, or from Coburg, the journey to 
Kingston is often charmingly made overland, 
through a beautiful country at the head of the 
Bay of Quinte, a singular arm of the St. Law- 
rence. 

Toronto.— Hotels. 

Toronto is the largest and most populous city 
in Canada "West. Sixty years ago the site of the 
present busy mart was occupied by two Indian 
families only. In 1793, Governor Simcoe began 
the settlement under the name of York, changed, 
when it was Incorporated in 1834, to Toronto — 
meaning, in the Indian tongue, "The place of 
meeting." The population, in 1817, numbered 
only 1,200 ;. in 1850, it had reached 25,000 ; and 
now, it is, perhaps, 50,000, or upwards. 

The Provincial Legislature meets at Toronto 
and Quebec, alternately, every four years — an 
arrangement made since the disturbances of 1849, 
which resulted in the burning of the Parliament 
Houses at Montreal. 

Among the public buildings of Toronto, the 
traveller will perhaps please himself with a peep 
at the Catholic Church of St. Michael, the St. 
James' Cathedral (English), the University of 



CANADA. ^MICHIGAN. 



Toronto, the St. La-wrence Hall and Market, the 
Parliament House, Osgoode Hall, the Post Office, 
the Court-House, the Exchange, the Mechanics' 
Institute, Knox's Church, Trinity College, Up- 
per Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the 
Jail, and the K"ormal and Model Schools. At 
Toronto, the traveller may if he pleases, reach 
Niagara direct, without touching at Hamilton, 
as we propose to do in our present journey. 

Hamilton. — Hotels. — Anglo-American. 

Hamilton is among the m.ost heautiful and 
most prosperons cities of Canada. It aspires, 
even la run a race with Toronto, one of the 
" 2:40" nags of the province. Many advantages 
promise it a bravo future. It is at the head of 
the western extremity of Lake Ontario, connect- 
ed with the eastern capitals of the United States, 
and with Quehec, Montreal, and Toronto, hy the 
Grand Trunk, and the Hamilton and Toronto 
Railways ; and with Lake Huron and the Mis- 
Bissippi States, by the Great Western Railway, 
which traverses the garden lands of Canada ; 
and, via the Suspension Bridge at Niagara, with 
the whole railway system of New York. The 
distance from Toronto to Hamilton, by the 
Bteamer, is 45 miles — time, two aiid a half hours ; 
by railway, 3S miles — time (express), 1 hour 24 
minutes. The population of Hamilton, in 1845, 
was 6,500 ; at this time it much exceeds 20,000. 

From Ham.iltorL to the FaHs. Dis- 
tance, by the Great Western Eail-s^ay, from 
Hamilton to the Suspension Bridge, 43 miles — 
time, 1 hour, 35 minutes. Stations, Ontario, 
Grimsby, BcamsvUle, Jordan, St. Catharine's, 
Thorold, Niagara Falls. 

St. Cathariiie's is the chief point of inter- 
est on this part of our route. Its pleasant tOr 
pographj', and, more particularly, its mineral 
waters, is making it a place of great summer re- 
Bort. Hero we leave the reader to establish him- 
self at Niagara, and to see all its marvels, having 
elsewhere pointed out where he should go, and 
what should be his ilineraire while there. See 
Niagara Falls (New York.) 

THE GREAT LAKES. 

A delightful tour of a few weeks, may be 
made, in the heat of the summer, among the 
natur.'il wonders of the region of the GxeaX Lakes, 
to Mackinac, the Sault de St. Marie, and the 
shores of Lake Superior, returidiig, perhaps, by 
some one of the lower routes to the Atlantic, 
from the head waters of the Mississippi. 

At Toronto, on Lake Ontario, which may bo 
easily and speedily reached by routes which we 
shall hereafter travel — from New York, by the 
Hudson River and Lake Champlaia to Montreal, 



and thence by the Grand Trunk Railway ; or by 
the Central road from Albany to Euflalo, and by 
Niagara ; or, by Niagara, via the New York and 
Erie railway ; or, from Portland or Boston, by 
railroad to Montreal, &c. By steamboat daily, 
from Butialo or from Chicago, &c., to Mackinao 
or Mackinaic, as the word is pronounced. 

At Toronto, the traveller will take the Col- 
lingwoud route, by the Ontario, Simcoe, and 
Huron Railway, 94 miles to CoUingwood at the 
head of Georgian Bay or Manitoulin Lake, tho 
north-east part of Lake Huron. Huron is the 
third in size of the five great inland seas, which 
pour their floods into the St. Lawrence. It lies 
between 43° and 46° lb' north latitude, having 
the State of Michigan on the south-south-west, 
and Canada West upon all other points, except- 
ing where the Straits of Mackinac and the Falls, 
or Sault de Ste. Marie enter it from Lakes Mich- 
igan and Superior, and at its outlet in tho St. 
Clair river. It is divided by the peninsula of 
Cabot's head, and the Mauitouline Islands, tho 
upper portion» being the north channel and tho 
Georgian Baj^, which we reach at CoUingwood. 
The length of Lake Huron, following its cres- 
cent shape, is about 280 miles, and its greatest 
breadth, not including the Georgian Bay, is 105 
miles ; its average width is TO miles. Lake 
Huron is 352 feet above Lake Ontario, and 600 
feet above the level of tho sea. The dei)th is 
1,000 feet— greater than that of any other in the 
grand chain of which it is a link. Off Saginaw, 
leads, it is said, have been dropped to a depth of 
18,000 feet, which is 12,000 feet below the level of 
the Atlantic, and yet without finding bottom. 
The waters here are so pure and clear that ob- 
jects may be distinctly seen from 50 to 100 feet 
below the surface In these noble waters there 
are said to be more than 3,000 islands. 

From CoUingwood, the route is by suitable 
steamers to Mackinac, or the Straits of Mack- 
inac, which arc the connecting links between 
Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. The Island 
of Mackinac has a circumference of about nine 
miles, and its shores and vicinage are picturesque 
and romantic in the highest degree. The 
Arched Rock, facing the water, and rising to the 
elevation of some 200 feet, makes a bold and 
striking picture from all points on the lake, and 
especiahy as you look through its rude arches 
from the summit. Robinson's Folly is an attrac- 
tive bluff on the north shore— years ago a Mr. 
Robinson, after whom the bluff is named, erect- 
ed a summer-house upon its crest. Here he 
passed his daj^s, and oftentimes his nights-, 
despite the cautions of the people about him, 
until, in an unlucky tempest, he and his eyrie 
nest were swept away together. 
Tlie Cave of Skulls is upon the western 



CANADA. — MICHIGAN. 



37 



shore of the island. Once upon a time, it is said, 
a party of Sioux Indians were pursued hither 
by the Ottawas, wlio imprisoned and destroyed 
their foes in this cavern, by building fires at its 
mouth. The traveller, Henry, was one night 
secreted here, by a friendly Indian, when,. to his 
surprise and horror, the morning light showed 
that ho had been sleeping soundly upon a bed of 
human bones. 

Tile Needles, another natural wonder of 
Mackinac, is a bold rook, in form not unlike a 
light-honse. This elevation commands a pano- 
rama of the entire island, and a fine view of the 
crumbling and weed-covered ruins of Fort 
Holmes. Days of delight may be passed amidst 
the natural beauties of land and water at Mack- 
inac, made doubly picturesque by the wild fron- 
tier life yet found here, and mingled, too, with 
the still existing homes and presence of the Eed 
men. 

Fort Mackinac stands upon a rocky height, 
150 feet above the village, which it overlooks. 
An agency for Indian afi'airs is established here, 
which is, from time to time, the resort of depu- 
tations and bands of the wild dwellers of the 
surrounding wilderness. Immense quantities 
of fish are sent from Mackinac. Steamboats 
from Detroit, Chicago, and other places, stop 
here continually. 

Sault Ste. Marie. Passing on towards 
Lake Superior, a voyage of eight pleasant hours, 
in a steamer, will bring us to the famous Falls of 
St. Mary, in the Strait of St. Mary, which con- 
nects the waters of Lake Superior and Lake 
Huron, and separates Canada West from the 
upper part of Michigan. The strait extends 63 
miles from the south-east extremity of Lake 
Superior until it reaches Lake Huron. Its 
course is sometimes narrow, and broken into 
angry rapids ; again, it widens into beautiful 
lakelets, and winds amid enchanting islands. It 
is navigable for vessels drawing eight feet of 
water, up to within a mile of Lake Superior, 
where the passage is interrupted by the great 
" Sault " or Falls. The Sault is a series of tur- 
bulent rapids, with a total descent of 22 feet in 
the course of three quarters of a mile. The 
passage of these falls, or the "running the ra- 
pids," as it is called, is most exhilarating sport. 

The rapids are broken up into several different 
channels, and among them are scattered little 
islands, such as you see at Niagara, and, like 
them, bristling with cedars in all possible atti- 
tudes. 

At this point, on the American side, is the 
little village of the Sault— an old settlement in 
the State of Michigan, founded by the Jesuits 
about two centuries ago. It has evidently seen 
and felt nothing of the great progress which has 



been building up cities and states. Here is to 
be seen the native owner of the soil and the half- 
breed (a cross of the French and Indian blood) ; 
and many other objects of interest. 

These rapids are not unlike those of Niagara, 
excepting that, instead of ending upon the brink 
of a terrible precipice, they decline with the 
steady flow of a wide river ; and steamers and 
canoes may fearlessly enter them. They run 
in different channels, everywhere dodging the 
numerous little cedar-covered islands in their 
way. The Sault yields abundant supplies of 
finny inhabitants ; for the excellence of its white 
fish it is particularly renowned. 

The village of the Sault on the Michigan shore, 
was founded by the Jesuits 200 years ago, but so 
little progress has it made, that the Aboriginal 
owner of the soil is still found in possession. 
Upon the British side of the river, there is an 
ancient-looking establishment, occupied as an 
agency of the Hudson's Bay Company. 

The St. Mary's Ship Canal, a noble work, now 
overcomes the obstruction made by these rapids 
in the passage from Lake Huron to Lake Su- 
perior. Heretofore, merchandise from Chicago, 
Detroit, Buffalo, and other places, had to be 
discharged and conveyed over a railroad to the 
upper end of the Sault, and then hauled down to 
the waters at the opposite extremitj' ; and the 
looks in this massive canal are, perhaps, the 
largest in the world. 

The Chippewa Hotel is a good house on the 
American side of the rapids ; and Pine's Hotel 
is a well-kept establishment on the British shore. 

Steamers leave the Sault, daily, for all places 
on Lake Superior, and the neighboring waters. 

Lake Superior. We enter Lake Superior 
after the passage of the Sault Ste. Marie, be- 
tween two bold promontories, rising to the height 
of 200 to 300 feet, called Cape Gro and Cape 
Iroquois. 

This grand inland sea is the largest body of 
fresh water on the globe. Its greatest length 
is 420 miles, its extreme breadth is 160 miles, 
and its circuit, 1,750 miles. On its west and 
north-west shore is Minnesota, on the southern 
border are Wisconsin and Michigan, while Brit- 
ish America lies on all other sides. The waters, 
which are wonderfully transparent, come by 
more than two hundred streams, from a basin 
covering an area of 100,000 square miles. The 
north, and south, and western parts are full of 
islands, while in the central portions of the lake 
there are few or none. In the north, these 
islands arc many of them large enough to afford 
ample shelter for vessels. The picturesque re- 
gions of the lake are along the northern shore. 
In this direction the scenery is of a very bold 
and Btriking character. For many miles her© 



38 



MICHIGAN. — NEW BKHNSWICK, 



there are continuous ranges of cliffs, which reach 
Bometimcs an elevation of 1,500 feet ; on the 
south the banks are low and sandj', except 
■where they are broken by occasional limestone 
ridges. These ridges rise near the eastern ex- 
tremity, upon this side, 300 feet, in unique and 
surprising perpendicular walls and cUfls, broken 
into the oddest forms, indented with gi-otesque 
caverns, and jutting out into ghostly headlands. 
It is these strange formations which are famous 
Tinder the name of the " Pictured Rocks." This 
range is on the east of Point Keweenaw. The 
rocks have been colored by continual mineral 
drippings. A similar rocky group lies to the 
west of the Apostle Islands. It is some hundred 
feet high, and is broken by numberless arches 
and caves of the most picturesque character. 
On the summit of these bluffs, there is every- 
where a stunted growth of Alpine trees. 

The Porcupine Mountains upon the southern 
shore of the lake, appear, says a voyager, to be 
about as extensive (though not so lofty) as the 
Catskils. 

Of the islands of Lake Superior, the largest, 
which ia some 40 miles in lengtb, and from seven 
to ten broad, is called Eoyal Isle. Its hills rise 



to the altitude of 400 feet, with fine hold shores, 
on the north, and many fine bays on the south. 
It is, like all this region, a famous fishing- 
ground. Near the western extremity of the lake, 
there is a group known as the Apostle Islands. 
They form a trio of forest-covered heights, add- 
ing greatly to the beauty of the landscape 
around ; on the extreme end of the largest, is 
the trading post called La Pointe, inhabited by 
Indians and white adventurers. It is a great 
place of annual rendezvous for the red man and 
the trader, and a starting point for tramps to 
the regions of the Mississippi. 

The shores of Lake Superior have long been 
extensively explored for their abundant cop- 
per wealth ; and mines have been opened at all 
points. 

Fond du Lac is in Minnesota, on the Saint 
Louis river, 22 miles from its entrance into Lake 
Superior. It is accessible by steamboat ; and its 
wonderfully wild and romantic hills, and rocks, 
and glens, are well worth a visit from the tourist 
of the Great Lakes. 

"We shall come back to this region, when we 
visit the head waters of the Mississippi, hy- 
and-by. 



NEW BEimSWIOK. 

New Brunswick, a Province of Great Britain, lies upon the eastern boundary of the State of 
Maine. The Landscape is of great variety and of most picturesque beauty ; the whole Province 
(excepting the dozen miles lying directly on the sea) being broken into attractive valleys and hills, 
which northward assume a very marked, and sometimes a very rugged aspect. Much of its area 
of 230 miles in length, and 130 in breadth, is covered with magnificent forests, which, as in the 
neighboring State of Maine, constitute its chief source of industry and wealth. 

The hills are nowhere of a very wonderful height, but they often rise in precipitous and sharp 
acclivities, which give them almost an Alpine aspect ; all the more striking in contrast with tho 
peaceful plains and vales which they protect from the tempests of the sea. 

Like the neighboring Province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick so aboimds in lakes and rivers, 
that ready water access may be had with the help of a short portage, now and then, over its entire 
area. Thus a canoe may easily be floated from the interior to the Bay de Chaleaur, the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence, and the ocean on the north, or to the St. John. River, and thence to the Bay of Fundy 
on the south. 



The St. John River is the largest in New 
Brunswick, and one of the most remarkable 
and beautiful in America. It rises in the 
Highlands which separate Maine from Cana- 
da, not very far from the sources of the Con- 
necticut. For 150 miles it flows in a north-east 
direction, to the junction of the St. Francis. 
From the mouth of the St. Francis, the course 
of the St. John is irregularly E. S. E. to the 
Grand Falls ; at which point it makes a descent 



of from 70 to 80 feet, presenting a splendid pic- 
ture for the gratification of the tourist. The 
leap of the Grand Falls passed, the river makes 
its way almost southward for some distance, after 
which it turns abruptly to the eastward, and so 
continues its way for 100 mUes, passing Frederic- 
ton, to the outlet of the Grand Lake, in tho 
southern central part of the Province. From 
Grand Lake its passage is in a wide channel, 
due south to Kingston, and thence south-west to 



rreW BEUNSWICK. 



39 



Bt. John, at its mouth in St. John Harhor, on the 
Bay of Fundy. 

The entire length of this heautiful river is 
about 600 milPS, and from the Grand Falls to the 
eea, 225 mVieL', its course is within the British 
territorjr. The river and its affluents are thought 
to aftbrd 1,300 n-iles of navigable waters. Very 
much of the shoroa of the St. John is wild forest 
land. In some parts, the banks rise in grand 
rooky hills, forming in their lines and interlac- 
ings, pictures of wonderful delight. 

The chief tributaries of the St. John, besides 
the St. Francis and other waters already men- 
tioned, are Aroostook, the Oromooto, and the 
Eel, on the west ; and the Salmon, the Nashwaak, 
the Tobique, the Kennebecasis, and the Washe- 
demoak, on the east. 

The coast, and bays, and lakes, and rivers, of 
New Brunswick, abound with fish of almost 
every variety, and in immense supplies. The fish- 
eries of the Bay of Fundy are of great value, and 
employ vast numbers of the popul.ation. In the 
harbor of St. John alone, there have been, at one 
time, two hundred boats, with five hundred men 
taking salmon, shad, and other fish. Nearly six 
hundred fishermen have been seen at one period 
at the Island of Grand Manan ; while at the 
West Isles, about seven hundred men have been 
thus employed at one moment ; and so on, at 
many other of the countless fishing grounds and 
stations of the New Brunswick and the Nova 
Scotia coasts. 

The climate here is healthful, but subject to 
great extremes of heat and cold ; the mercury 
rising sometimes to 100° in the day time, and 
falling to 50° at night. 

Internal Communicatioit. Besides the steam- 
ers and stages which connect the various towns 
and cities of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, 
lines of railway are in active progress, which 
will unite the two Provinces, and both to the 
Canadas and the States.' A portion of the Eu- 
ropean and North American Railway is now 
open (Aug. 1, 1860) from St. John to Shediac, 108 
miles ; from whence steamers connect with Char- 
lottetown, P. E. Island, Pictou,N. S., the north-" 
ern ports of New Brunswick and Quebec, in 
Canada. This line will open up new and pleasant 
ground to the tourist. Another road is to extend 
from St. Andrews to Woodstock, and thence to 
Quebec. The magnetic telegr.aph already con- 
nects New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and ]?rinoe 
Edward's Island with the States. The connec- 
tion between Nova Scotia and Prince Edward 
Island is by a submarine cable, nine miles from 
Cape Tormentine to Cape Traverse. 

St. Jolin, — Hotels : — Waverley House. 



Routes. — From Boston, Mass., every Monday 
and Thursday, at 9 A. M., by steamer. From 
Halifax via Windsor, N. S.,45 miles by rail, and 
thence by steamer, 110 miles, to St. John. 

St. John, at the mouth of the St. John River,' 
is the principal city of New Brunswick, with a 
population of over 30,000. It is superbly situated 
upon a bold, rocky peninsula, and is seen very 
imposingly from the sea. The scenery of the St. 
John River is very striking ih the passage imme- 
diately preceding its entrance into the harbor, 
and a mile and a half above the oitj^. It makes 
its impetuous way here in a chain of grand 
rapids, through rugged gaps, 240 feet wide, and 
1,200 feet long. This passage is navigable only 
during the very brief time of high and equal 
tides in the harbor and the river ; for at low wa- 
ter the river is about 12 feet higher than the 
harbor, while at high water, the harbor is five 
feet above the river. It is thus, only, when the 
waters of the harbor and of the river are on a 
level, that vessels can pass ; and this occurs only 
during a space of from fifteen to twenty minutes, 
at each ebb and flow of the tide. Immense 
quantities of timber are rafted down from the 
forests of the river above, to St. John. It is 
the entrepot also of the agricultural and mineral 
products of a wide region of country. 

Fredericton. — Hotels : — Barker House. 

Routes. — From Boston via St. John. 

Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, 
stands upon a flat tongue of land, in a bend of 
the St. John River, 80 miles from its mouth. 
This sandy plain is about three miles long, some- 
times reaching a breadth of half a mile. The 
river, which is navigable up to this point, is here 
three-quarters of a mile wide. Small steamers 
ascend 60 miles yet above to Woodstock, and 
sometimes to the foot of the Great Falls. 

The view both up and down the vaUey is most 
interesting — to the north and uncleared range of 
highlands, with detached cones and broken hills 
thrown out in bold relief upon the landscape. 
Villas enclosed in the woods, and farms upon the 
clearings, are the chief objects it presents ; while 
to the South the river is seen widening, like a 
silver cord, through the d-ark woodlands, until it 
disappears among the islands in the distance. 

St. Andrews, with a population of about 
8,000, is at the north-east extremity of Passama- 
quoddy Bay, three miles from the shores of tho 
United States, near Eastport, in Maine, and 60 
miles from St. John. A railway will connect 
St. Andre%fs with Woodstock, 80 miles distant, 
and will be continued to Canada. 



40 NOVA eOOTIA. 



ITOVA SCOTIA. 

Nova Scotia, the ancient Acadia, including tlie Island of Cape Breton and SaWe Island, lies 
soutli-east of New Brunswick, from wbicli it is separated by the Bay of Fundy, except only at the 
narrow Isthmus of Chignecto. It may be reached at Halifax, its capital, by the British steamers 
from New Tork and Boston. The railways now in progress within its limits will soon more con- 
veniently unite it to the cities of the Canadaa and the United States. The area of the Province is 
18,746 square miles, including the 3,000 of Cape Breton, and the 69 of Sable Island. The southern 
shores are often very rugged. The interior is diversified with hills and valleys, though not of very 
bold character, as the highest land is but 1,200 feet above the sea. The numerous lakes cover 
much of the southern part of the Province. The agricultural capabilities vary much for the area 
of the country. On the Atlantic Coast much of the soil is rocky and barren. The richest soils 
are in that section of the country bordering upon the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
and the streams emptying into them ; and, generally speaking, this is the most thickly settled re- 
gion. Nova Scotia has become so much denuded of its valuable timber, that its lumber trade is 
now neither very large nor productive, compared with that of New Brunswick or Canada. Farm- 
ing, however, especially in the finer agricultural districts just named, is extensively carried on, and 
is very remunerative. 

The extensive mineral deposits of Coal, Iron, and Copper, have become, of late years, an object 
of great and constantly increasing attention to the inhabitants; and Gj"psum. Grindstones, and 
Building Stone of various kinds, have long been important articles of export. Upon the Atlantic 
coast, too, many people are occupied in the extensive fishing trade, which has been prosecuted 
here more actively than upon any of the British American shores, excepting only that of New- 
foundland. 

The Coast of Nova Scotia.— The greatest length of Nova Scotia is 356 miles, and the great- 
est breadth 120 miles. The south-east coast, in a distance of 110 miles only from Cape Canso to 
Halifax, has no less than 12 ports capacious enough to receive ships of the line, and 14 deep enough 
for merchantmen. A belt of rugged broken land, of which the greatest height is 500 feet, formed 
of granite and primary rock, extends along all the Atlantic shore, from Cape Canso to Cape Sable. 
This belt varies in breadth from 10 to 50 miles, and covers about one-third of the whole Province. 
Fi'om Briar's Island, off Digby Neck, 130 miles to Capes Split andBlomidon, along the northern 
coast on the Bay of Fundy, there is a ridge of wooded frowning precipices of trap rock, which over- 
hang the waves at an elevation of from 100 to 600 feet. These magnificent clifls are picturesque 
and grand in the extreme. They are, too, (which is something in this utilitarian age,) not only 
ornamental, but useful, for they serve to protect the interior from the terrible fogs of the bay. 

The Rivers and Lakes and Bats of Nova Scotia. — The lakes here, though generally 
Email, are almost countless in number, covering the southern portions of the peninsula as with a 
net-work of smiling waters. In some instances, no less than a hundred are grouped within a space 
of twenty square miles. Lake Rosignol, the largest of the region, is 30 miles long. It is near the 
western end of the peninsula. Grand Lake comes next, then College Lake eastward. Minas Bay 
on the north coast, the eastern arm of the Bay of Fundy, penetrating 60 miles inland, is very re- 
markable for the tremendous tides which rush in here, sometimes to the height of 60 to 70 feet, 
while the}' do not reach more than from 6 to 9 feet in the harbor of Halifax, directly opposite ; 
these are the spring-tides. They form what is called the bore. The bays of St. Marys, the Gut of 
Canso, Townsend Bay, George Bay, and Chedabucto Bay, in the eastern part of the Province, and 
St. Margarets and Mahone Bays on the south, are all large and most interesting waters. 

Tile Annapolis Elver flows into the Bay I Besides this principal river there are many others 
of Fundy, 100 miles from the Garden of Acadia. | navigable for a greater or less distance from their 



NOVA SOOTIA. 



41 



mouths, as the Shuhenaoadie, ■which, by the help 
of a canal, connects Cobequid Bay, from the 
Bay of Fundy on the north side of the peninsula, 
with Halifax Harbor on the south ; the Tusket 
and the Clyde in the south-west extremity of the 
Province, the Mersey, the Musquodoboit, and 
the St. Marys. Indeed, rivers pour their waters 
into all the many bays and harbors which so 
thickly stud the ^yhole line of these remarkable 
coasts. 

Halifax.— Hotels :— 

RoTTTES. From New Tork direct, by the 
British Mail Steamers. Prom St. John, N. B., 
by steamer, 110 miles to Windsor, thence by rail, 
45 miles to Halifax. 

Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is upon 
the south coast of the peninsula, on the declivity 
of a hill, about 250 feet high, rising from one of 
the finest harbors on the continent. The streets 
are generally broad, and for the most part mac- 
adamized. Viewed from the water, or from the 
opposite shore, the city is prepossessing and ani- 
mated. In front, the town is lined with wharves, 
which, from the number of vessels constantly 
loading and discharging, always exhibit a specta- 
cle of great commercial activity. Warehouses 
rise over the wharves, or tower aloft in diflferen-t 
parts of the town, and dwelling-houses and pub- 
lic buildings rear their heads over each other, as 
they stretch along and up the sides of the hill. 
The spires of the different churches, the build- 
ing above the town in which the town-clock is 
fixed, a rotunda-built church, the signal-posts on 
Citadel Hill, the diii'erent batteries, the variety 
of style in which the houses are built (some of 
which are painted white, some blue, and some 
red) ; rows of trees showing themselves in differ- 
ent parts of the town ; the ships moored oppo- 
site the dockyard, with the establishments and 
tall shears of the latter ; the merchant vessels 
Tinder sail, at anchor, or along the wharves ; the 
wooded and rocky scenery of the background, 
with the islands and the small town of Dart- 
mouth on the east shore,— are all objects most 
agreeable to see. 

Of the public buildings, the chief is a hand- 
some edifice of stone, called the Province Build- 
ing, 140 feet long by 70 broad, and ornamented 
with a collonade of the Ionic order. It comprises 
suitable chambers for the accosimodation of the 
Council and Legislative Assembly, and also for 
various Government offices. The Government 
House, in the southern part of the town, is a 
Bof(d, but gloomy-looking structure, near which 
is the residence of the military commandant. 
The Admiral's residence, on the north side of 
the town, is a jjlain building of stone. The north 



and south barracks are capable of accommo- 
dating three regiments. The Wellington Bar- 
racks (in the northern part of the town), which 
comprises two long ranges of substantial stone 
and brick buildings, is the most extensive and 
costly establishment of the kind in North 
America. There is also, a Military Hospital, 
erected by the late Duke of Kent. Dalhousie Col- 
lege is a handsome edifice of freestone. Among 
the churches of various denominations are sev- 
eral of the English establishment, and of the 
Presbyterian order, and two of the Roman Catho- 
lic faith. The Court House is a spacious free- 
stone structure, in the southern part of the town. 
In the suburbs is a new Hospital. The banking 
establishments are four in number. The hotels 
and boarding-houses are not of the highest order. 
The inhabitants of Halifax are intelligent and 
social, and travellers will remark a tone of soci- 
ety here more decidedly English than in most 
of the other colonial cities. 

The harbor opposite the town is more than a 
mile wide, and has, at medium tides, a depth of 
12 fathoms. About a mile above the upper end 
of the town it narrows to one-fourth of a mile, 
and then expands into Bedford Basin, which has 
a surface of ten square miles, and is completely 
land-locked. On an island opposite the town are 
some strong mounted batteries. The harbor is 
also defended by some other minor fortifications. 
The Citadel occupies the summit of the heights 
commanding the town, and is a mile in circum- 
ference. It is a costly work, and, after that 
of Quebec, is the strongest fortress in the Bi-itish 
North American Colonies. 

Halifax, ever since its settlement in 1749, has 
been the seat of a profitable fishery. Its trade, 
which is in a very prosperous condition, is prin- 
cipally with the West Indies and other British 
colonies, with the United States, and the mother 
country. It is also the chief rendezvous and 
naval depot for the British navy on the North 
American station. The British Government 
having made Halifax one of the stopping-places 
of the Cunard line of steamers, in their trips 
either way across the Atlantic, has added greatly 
to its importance as a maritime city, as well as 
advanced its commercial prosperity. 



THE UNITED STATES. 



The grand territory of the United States, through which wo propose to travel in our present vol- 
ume, occupies no meaner area than that of 2,936,166 square miles, scarcely less than that of tho 
continent of Europe. In form, it is nearly a parallelogram, with an average length of 2,400 miles, 
from east to west, and a mean breadtli, from north to south, of 1,300 miles. Its extreme length 
and breadth are, respectively, 2,700 and 1,600 miles ; reaching from the Atlantic on the east, to tho 
Pacific on the west ; from British America on the north, to the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican 
Eepuhlic on the south. Its present division is into thirty-four States and nine Territories, besides 
tho District of Columbia. The States have been popularly grouped into 4 classes, according to their 
geographical position; as the Eastern Group, or "New England," embracing Maine, New Hampshire, 
Vermont, Massachusetts, Ehode Island, and Connecticut ; the " Middle " group, of New York, New 
Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and Maryland ; the " Southern States," Virginia, North Carolina, South 
Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas ; and the " Western States," of 
Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Iowa, Wisconsiii, Missouri, Arkansas, Califor- 
nia, Oregon, Minnesota, and Kansas. 

All the Territories — ^Washington^ New Mexico, Utah, Nebraska, Colorado, Dakotah, Nevada, Idaho, 
and Arizona, are included in this division of the country. 

POPULATION OP THE UNITED STATES. 
Tho District of Columbia, (D. C.,t) 1860 75,076 

THE EASTEEN OE NEW ENGLAUD STATES. 

Connecticut, (Conn.,) 1S60 460,151 New Hampshire, (N. H.,) 1860 826,072 

Ehode Island, (K. I.,) 1S60 174,621 Vermont, (Vt.,) 815,116 

Massachusetts, (Mass.,) 1860 1,231,065 Mame, (Me.,) 1860 628,276 

THE MIDDLE STATES. 

New York, (N. Y.,) 1860 3,887,542 Pennsylvania, (Pa.,) 1860 2,906,370 

New Jersey, (N. J.,) 1860 672,031 *Delaware, (Del.,) iS6l. . . . ■ 112,218 

THE SOTTTHEEN STATES. 

♦Maryland, (Md.,) 1860 687,034 *Plorida, (Pla.,) 1860 140,489 

♦Virginia, (Va.,) 1860 1,596,083 *Alabama, (Ala.,) 1860 964,296 

♦North Carolina, (N. C.,) 1860 992,067 *Louisiana, (La.,) 1860 709,433 

♦South Carolma, (S. C.,) 1860 703,812 *Texas, (Tex.,) 1860 601,W9 

♦Georgia, (Ga.,) 1860 1,057,327 *mssissippi, (Miss.,) 1860 791,395 

* Slave States. t Abbreviations used in the address of letters, etc. 



MAIBTE. 43 

THE WESTERN' STATES. 

♦Arkansas, (Ark.,) 1860 435,42T MicMgan, (Mich.,) 1860 749,112 

♦Tennessee, (Tenn.,) 1860 1,109,847 "Wisconsin, (Wis.,) 1860 775,873 

♦Kentucky, (Ky.,) 1860 1,155,718 Iowa, (lo.,) 1860 674,948 

OMo, (O.,) 1860 2,339,599 ^Missouri, (Mo.,) 1860 1,173,317 

Indiana, (la.,) 1860 ' 1,350,479 Oregon, (Or.,) 1860 52,464 

Minnesota, (Min.,) 1860 162,022 California, (Cal.,) 1860 380,015 

Illinois, (111.,) 1860 1,711,753 Kansas, (Ka.,) 1860 107,110 

TEBEITOErES. 

New Mexico, (N. M. Ty.,) 93,541 Dakotah, 1860 4,839 

•Washington, (Was. Ty.,) 1860 11,578 Nevada, 1860 6,857 

Utah, (UtTy.,) 40,295 Idaho 

Nebraska, (Na. Ty.,) 1860 28,842 Arizona 

Colorado 1860 84,197 

Total 31,429,891 



MAINE. 

Maine is the extreme eastern portion of New England, and the horder State of the Union in 
that direction, with the British provinces of New Brunswick on the north and north-east, and Can- 
ada on the north-west. It has three distinct topographical aspects — in the comparatively level, and 
somewhat sandy and marshy character of the southern portion, lying back 20 miles from the At- 
lantic coasts — in the pleasant hill and valley features of the interior, and in the rugged, momitain- 
ous, and wilderness regions of the north. 

A great portion of the State is yet covered by dense forests, the utilization of which is the chief 
occupation and support of its inhabitants. The most fertile lands lie in the central southern re- 
gions, between the Penobscot river on the east, and the Kennebec on the west, and in the valley 
horders of other waters. The mountain ranges are often very bold and imposing— one smnmit, 
that of Katahdin, having an elevation of 5,385 feet above the level of the sea. The lakes are very 
numerous, sometimes of great extent, and often very beautiful, all over the State; and more espe- 
cially among the mountains in the north. Indeed, it is estimated, that one-tenth part of the whole 
area of Maine is covered by water. The rivers are numerous and large, and present everywhere 
scenes of great and varied beauty. The Atlantic coast, which occupies the whole southern line of 
the State, is the finest in the Union, in its remarkably bold, rocky character, and in its beautiful 
harbors, bays, islands, and beaches. The sea-islands of Maine are over 400 In number ; and many 
of them are very large, and covered by fertile and inhabited lands. The climate, though marked 
by extremes, both of heat and cold, is yet everywhere most healthful ; and its rigor is much mod- 
ified by the proximity of the ocean. 

The Mountains and Xiakes. The most interesting route for the toiirist here, is perhaps 
a journey through the hills, lakes, and forests of the north ; but we warn him, beforehand, that it 
will not be one of ease. Rugged roads and scant physical comforts will not be his most severe 
trial : for, in many places, he will not find road or inn at all, but must trudge along painfuUy 
on foot, or by rude skitF over the lakes, and trust to his rifio and his rod to supply his larder. In 
these wildest regions the exploration may be made with great satisfaction by a party well pro- 
vided ^\^.th all needed tent equipage, and with all the paraphernalia of the chase ; for deer, and the 
moose, and the wild fowl are abundant in the woods ; and the finesf fish may be freely taken in 
the water. Still he may traverse most of the mountain lands and lakes by the roads and paths of 
the lumbermen, who have invaded all the region ; and he may bivouac as comfortably as should 
content an orthodox forester, in these humble shanties. 



44 



MAINE. 



The mountains of Maine are 'broken and distinct peaks. A range, which seems to be an irreg- 
vdar continuation of the White Hills of New Hampshire, extends along the western side of the 
State for many miles ; and, verging towards the north-east, terminates in Mars Hill. This chain 
divides the waters which flow north into the Bt. John's River from those which pass southward 
to the Atlantic. Many beautiful lakes lie within this territoiy. 



Mount Katalidin, with its peaks 5,SS5 
feet above the sea, is the loftiest summit in the 
State, and is the ultima thule, at present, of gen- 
eral travel in this direction. The ordinary ac- 
cess is in stages from Bangor over the Aroostook 
Road, st.arting in tolerable coaches on a tolerable 
road, and changing always, in both, from bad to 
worse. ■ A pleasant route ^or the adventurer is 
down the West Branch of the Penobscot, in a 
canoe, from Moosehcad Lake. Guides and 
birches, as the boats are called, may be procured 
at the foot of Moosehead, or at the Kineo House, 
near the centi-e of the lake. By this approach 
Katahdin is seen in much finer outlines than 
from the eastward. 

Sugar Loaf Mountain, upon the Seboois 
River, north-east of Mount Katahdin, is nearly 
2,000 feet higli, and from its summit a magnifi- 
cent view is commanded, which embraces some 
fifty mountain peaks, and nearly a score of won- 
derful lakes. Then there are Bigelow, Saddle- 
back, Squaw, Bald, Gilead, the Speckled Moun- 
t;iin, the Blue Mountain, and other heights more 
or less noble, amidst which are brooks, and lake- 
lets, and waterfalls of most romantic character. 

Mooseliead Lake, the largest in Maine, is 
among the northern hills. It is 35 miles long, 
and, at one point, is 10 miles in breadth, though 
near the centre there is a pass not over a mile 
across. Its waters are deep, and furnish ample 
occupation to the angler, in their stores of trout 
and other fish. This lake may be traversed in 
the steambo.ats employed in towing lumber to 
the Kennebec. A summer hotel occupies a very 
picturesque site upon the shore. The Kineo 
House, midw.ay, is the usual stopping-place. 
There are numerous islands on the Moosehead 
L.ake, some of which are of great interest. On 
the west side, Mount Kineo overhangs the water, 
at an elevation of 600 feet. Its summit reveals a 
picture of foi-est beauty well worth the climbing 
to see. Moosehead is 15 miles north of the vil- 
lage of Monson, and 60 north-west of Bangor. 
The roads thither, Ij'ing through forest land, are 
necessarily somewhat rough and lonelj'. This 
lake is the source of tiie great Kennebec river, 
by whose channels its waters reach the sea. 

Lake TJrabag'Og' lies nartly in Maine and 
yet more in New Hampshire. Its length is 
about 12 miles, and its breadth varies from 1 to 
5 miles. The outlet of Umbagog and the Mar- 
gallaway river form the Androscoggin. | 



Androscog-gin and Moosetocknogun- 
tic Lakes are in the vicinity of Umbagog. 

Setoago Pond, a beautiful lake 12 miles 
long and from 7 to 8 miles broad, is about 20 
miles from Portland, on a route thence to Con- 
way and the White Mountains. It is connected 
with Portland bj- a canal. 

Tile Penobscot, the largest and most beau- 
tiful of the rivers of Maine, may be reached 
daily from Boston and Portland, by steamer, as 
far up as Bangor, and also by railway from Poi't- 
land to Bangor. It is formed by two branches, 
the east and the west, which unite near the centre 
of the State, and flow in a general south-west 
course to Bangor, 60 miles from the sea, and at 
the head of navigation. Large vessels can as- 
cend to Bangor, and small steamboats navigate 
the river yet above. At Bangor the tide rises 
to the great height of 17 feet, an elevation which 
is supposed to be produced by the wedge-shaped 
form of the bay, and by the current from the 
Gulf Stream. The length of the Penobscot, 
from the junction of the east and west branch, 
is 135 miles, or measuring from the source of the 
west branch, it is 300 miles; though, as far as 
the tourist is concerned, it is only 60 miles — be- 
ing that i^ortion between Bangor and the ocean. 
This part, then, the Penobscot proper, ranks, in 
its pictorial attractions, among the finest river 
scenery of the United Stales. In all its course 
there are continual points of great beautj', and 
very often the shores rise in striking and even 
grand lines and proportions. AVe have met tour- 
ists who have been hardly less impressed with 
the landscape of this fine river than with that of 
the Hudson even, though we do not admit such 
a comparison. 

Bangor. — Hotels : — The Bangor House; 
the Hatch House. 

Bangor, at the head of tide water and of navi- 
gation on the Penobscot River, 60 miles from its 
mouth, is one of the largest cities of Maine, hav- 
ing a population of more than 17,000. Steam- 
boats connect it daily with Portland and Boston ; 
and it is reached also by the Androscoggin and 
Kennebec, and Penobscot and Kennebec rail- 
ways, via Waterville, on the Kennebec. The 
distance from B.angorto PortLand, by railwa3', is 
138 miles. Bangor is connected with Old Town 
(12 miles) by railway, and another road is con- 
templated to Lincoln, 50 miles up the Penobscot 



MAINE 



45 



valley. The Bangor Theological Seminary, 
founded 181C, occupies a fine site in the higher 
portion of tlie city. The "specialty" of Ban- 
gor is lumber, of which it is the greatest depot 
in the world. All the vast country above, 
drained by the Penobscot and its affluents, is 
covered with dense forests of pine, and hemlock, 
and spruce, and cedar, from which immense 
quantitie« of lumber are continually cut and sent 
from the marvellous saw-mills, down the river 
to market at Bangor. During the eight or nine 
mouths of the year through which the naviga- 
tion of the river is open, some 2,000 vessels are 
employed in the transportation of this freight. 
The whole industry of Bangor is not, however, 
in the lumber line, as she is also engaged in ship- 
building, and has a large coasting trade, and a 
considerable foreign commerce. 

Belfast and. Castine are some 30 miles 
below Bangor, where the Penobscot enters its 
name-sake bay. Belfast on the west, and Castine 
on the cast shore, are nine miles apart. They 
are both small ship-building and fishing towns. 

The Kennebec Eiver is in the western 
part of the State, extending from Moosehead 
Lake, 150 miles to the sea. It makes a descent 
in its passage of a thousand feet, thus aftbrding 
a great and valuable water-power. The scene- 
ry of the Kennebec, though pleasant, is far less 
striking than that of the Penobscot. Its shores 
are thickly lined with towns and villages, among 
which is Augusta, the capital of the State. 

Aug"usta. — Hotels : — The Stanley House. 

Augusta is at the head of sloop navigation on 
the Kennebec, 43 iniles from its mouth. It is 
60 miles N.IST.E. of Portland by r.ailway, and 69 
B. W. of Bangor. Steamboats run hence to Port- 
land and Boston, calling at the river landings. 
The city is chiefly upon the right bank of the 
river, which is crossed here by a bridge 520 feet 
long; and a quarter of a mile above, by a rail- 
road bridge, 900 feet in length. The private 
residences, and some of the hotels, are upon a 
terrace, a short distance west of the river, while 
the business parts of the town lie along shore. 
The State House is an elegant structure of white 
granite. Its site, in the southern part of the 
city, is lofty and very picturesque ; in front is a 
large and well-cared-for park. The United 
States Arsenal, surrounded with extensive and 
elegant grounds, is upon the east side of the river. 
Here, too, is the Hospital for the Insane, built up- 
on a commanding and most beautiful eminence. 
The principal hotels here are the Stanley House, 
the Augusta Ilouee, and the Mansion House. 
Augusta is upon the railway route from Portland 
to Bangor. Population, 8,000. 

Hallowell is a pretty village, two miles be- 



low Augusta, on the river, and on the line of the 
Kennebec and Portland Railway. 

Gardiner on the Kennebec, at the mouth of 
the Cobesseoontee River. This point is the head 
of ship navigation on the Kennebec. The city 
is seven miles below Augusta, and 53 miles from 
Portland by the Kennebec and Portland R. R. 

Waterville is on the Kennebec, at the Ti- 
conic Falls, and at the northern terminus of the 
Androscoggin and Kennebec Railw.ay, connect- 
ing with the Kennebec and Penobscot line. It 
is the seat of Waterville College, a prosperous 
establishment, controlled by the Baptists. 

Bath.— Hotels :— The Sagadahock House. 

Bath, a flourishing city of over 8,000 people, 
is on the Kennebec, 12 miles from the sea ; 30 
miles south of Augusta ; and 36 north-cast of 
Portland. It is the terminus of a branch road 
from Brunswick, on the Kennebec and Portland 
R.ailway ; it is to be united at Lewitton with the 
Androscoggin and Kennebec route from Port- 
land to Bangor. 

The Androscog'g'in Hiver is a fine stream, 
flowing from Lake Umbagog, partly in New 
Hampshire, but chiefly through the south-west- 
ern corner of Maine, into the Kennebec, 20 
miles from the ocean. 

Brunswick, on the Androscoggin, is 27 
miles from Portland by railwa}'. It is the seat- 
of Bowdoin College, which is beautifully located 
on a high terrace, near the edge of the village. 
This popular institution was fonnded in 1802. 
The Medical School of Maine, which is connect- 
ed with Bowdoin College, has a very valuable 
librarjf, and anatomical cabinet. The Andros- 
coggin here falls 50 feet within the reach of half 
a mile. 

Mount Desert Island. A summer trip 
to Mount Desert Island has of late years been a 
pleasant treat to American landscape painters, 
and a visit thither might be equally gr.ateful to 
the general tourist. The vigorous and varied 
rock-bound coast of New England can be no- 
where seen to greater advantage. Mount Desert 
Island is an out-of-the-way nook of beauty in 
Frenchman's Bay, east of the mouth of the 
Penobscot River. It is 40 miles from Bangor, 
and may be reached from Boston by boat, via 
Rock-ville, and thence by another steamer, on to 
Bucksport (on the Penobscot), and thence by 
stage via Ellsworth, or from Castine on the 
Penobscot Bay, hard by. If the visitor here 
cannot sketch the boldj rocky clifTs, he can be- 
guile the flsh to his heart's content. 

Eastport, upon the waters of Passamaquod- 
dy Baj', at the extreme eastern point of the ter- 
ritory of the United States is well-deserving of a 
visit from the tourist in quest of the beautiful in 



46 



MAINS. 



nature ; for more eliarming scenes on land and 
on sea, than are here, may rarely be found. 

The traveller may see Eastport and its vicin- 
age and then go home, if he pleases ; for it is the 
jumping-off place— the voritablo Lands-End — the 
latitude and longitude beyond which the stars 
and stripes give place to the red cross of Eng- 
land. 

Eastport is 234 miles IS'.E. of Portland, and 
is reached thence and from Boston by regular 
steamboat communication. Steamboats run also 
to Calais and places en route, 30 miles above, at 
the head of navigation on the St. Croix River. 
The town is charmingly built on Moose Island, 
and is connected to the mainland of Perry by a 
bridge ; and by ferries^ with Pembroke, Lubec, 
and the adjoining British Islands. It is not a 
very ponderous place, the population of the town- 
ship scarcely exceeding 5,000. Fort Sullivan is 
its shield and buckler against any possible foes 
from without. 

The Passamaquoddy Bay extends inland some 
15 miles, and is, perhaps, 10 miles in breadth. 
Its shores are wonderfully iiTcgular and pictur- 
esque, and the manj' islands which stud its deep 
waters, help much in the composition of pictures 
to be enjoyed and remembered. 

TO PORTLAND, MAINE. 
Erom Boston, 107 miles by the Eastern Rail- 
way, via Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, Ports- 
month, N. H., &c. ; or by the Boston and Maine 
route, 111 miles through Reading, Lawrence, 
Andover, Haverhill, Exeter, Dover, &c. ; or by 
steamer daily. 
From Montreal, by the Grand Trunk Railway. 

Portland. — Hotels : — The Preble Rouse; 
the United States ; the American ; the Elms. 

Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine, 
is handsomely situated on a peninsula, occupy- 
ing the ridge and side of a high point of laud, in 
the S. \r. extremity of Casco Bay, and on ap- 
proaching it from the ocean, is seen to great ad- 
vantage. The harbor is one of the best on the 
Atlantic coast, the anchorage being protected on 
every side by land, whilst the water is deep, and 
communication with the ocean direct and con- 
venient. It is defended by Forts Preble, Scam- 
mel, and Gorges. On the highest point of the 
peninsula is an observatory 70 feet in height, 
commanding a fine view of the citj', harbor, and 
islands in the bay. The misty forms of the 
White Mountains, 60 miles distant, are discern- 
ible in clear weather. 

This city is elegantly built, and the streets are 
beautifully shaded and embellished with trees ; 
and so profusely, that there are said to be here 



no less than 3,000 of these rural delights. Con- 
gress street, the main highway, follows the ridge 
of the peninsula through its entire extent. 
Among the public buildings of Portland, the 
City Hall, the Court House, and some of the 
churches, are worthy of particular attention. 
The Society of Natural History possesses a fine 
cabinet, containing specimens of the ornithology 
of the State, more than 4,000 species of shells, 
and a rich collection of mineralogical and geolog- 
ical examples, and of fishes and reptiles. The 
AthenKum has a library of 10,000 volumes, and 
the Mercantile library possesses, also, many val- 
uable books. The Portland Sacred Music Socie- 
ty is an interesting Association here. 

The long line of the Grand Trunk Railway 
connects the city with Montreal and Quebec, and 
thence with all the region of the St. Lawrence 
and the Saguenay Rivers. Two lines of railway 
unite it with Boston and the western cities, and 
with the interior of Maine, at Augusta on the 
Kennebec, and at Bangor, on the Penobscot. 

The Grand Trunk Railway, Route from 
Portland, North. This great thoroughfare 
connects the navigable waters of Portland harbor 
with the great commercial capital of Canada. 
Its route passes thi-ough a fertile and productive 
country, generally under fine cultivation, the 
streams in its vicinity abounding in water priv- 
ileges of the first importance. From Portland 
it passes onward to the valley of Royal's River, 
and follows up the valley of the Little Andros- 
coggin. It strikes and crosses that river at 
Mechanic Falls, 43 miles from Portland, at which 
place the Buckfield Branch Railroad connects 
with it. Pursuing its course upward, it passes 
in the vicinity of the " Mills" on its way to Paris 
Cape, in the neighborhood of Nor-n:ay and Paris, 
drawing in upon it the travel and business of 
that rich and populous region. Still following 
up the valley of the Little Androscoggin, passing 
on the way two important falls, it reaches 
Bryant's Pond, the source of that river. This 
point is 15 miles from Rumford Falls, on the 
Great Androscoggin, one of the greatest and 
most available water-powers in the State. Pass- 
ing hence into the valley of Alder stream, the 
route strikes the Great Androscoggin, near 
Bethel, a distance of 70 miles from Portland. 
Crossing that stream, it follows up its picturesque 
and romantic valley, bordered by the highest 
mountains in New England, till, in its course of 
about 20 miles from Bethel, it reaches Gorham 
in New Hampshire, distant from the base of 
Mount Washington a few miles only. From this 
point that celebrated shrine may be approached 
and ascended with more ease, in a shorter dis- 
tance, and less time, than from any other acces- 
sible quarter in the vicinity of the White Hills. 



MAINE. — MASSACHUSETTS. 



4T 



(See routes to White Mountains.) This point 
also is only five miles distant from Berlin Falls, 
tlie greatest -waterfall in New England, where the 
•waters of the Great Androscoggin, larger in 
volume than the waters of the Connecticut, de- 
scend nearly 200 feet in a distance of about two 
miles. From the valley of the Androscoggin the 
road passes into the valley of the Connecticut, 
reaching the banks of that river at North Strat- 
ford in New Hampshire. Following up this 
rich and highlj' productive valley about 35 miles, 
the road reaches the parallel of 45° N. Lat. ; at 
the boundary between the United States and 
Canada ; continuing thence to Quebec, and up 
the St. Lawrence via Montreal, to Toronto on 
Lake Ontario, where it connects- with other 
routes for Lake Superior and all parts of the 
groat West, 



Le-wiston is a flourishing manufacturing 
village, containing about 7,000 inhabitants situ- 
ated upon the Androscoggin River between Port- 
land and Waterville on the Androscoggin and 
Kennebec Railway, 33 miles north of Portland. 
The Avaterfall here is one of exceeding beautj\ 
The entire volume of the Androscoggin is pre- 
cipitated some 50 feet over a broken ledge, form- 
ing in its fall a splendid specimen of natural 
scenery. The river immediately below the fall, 
subsides into alniost a uniform tranquillity, and 
moves slowly and gracefully along its course, in 
strange though pleasing contrast -with its wild 
and turbid appearance at and above the cataract. 
The Androscoggin and Kennebec road commu- 
nicates with the Grand Trunk Railway at Dan- 
ville, six miles below Lewiston, and -with the 
Androscoggin road at Leeds, 11 miles above. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 

The landscape here is of changeful character, and often strikingly beautiful, embracing not a 
fe-w of the most famous scenes in the Union. In the south-eastern part of the State the surface is 
flat and sandy, though the sea coast is, in many places, very bold, and charmingly varied with fine 
pictures of rocky bluff and clift'. It abounds in admirable summer-houses, where the lovers of sea- 
breezos and bathing may find every means and appliance for comfort and pleasure. 

In the eastern and central regions, the physical aspect of the country, though agreeably diversi- 
fied, is eclipsed in attraction by the lavish art-adornments of crowding city and village, and happy 
homesteads, nowhere so abundant and so interesting as here. 

The Green Mountains traverse the -western portion of Massachusetts in two ridges, lying some 
25 miles apart, with picturesque valley lands between. Here are the favorite summer resorts of 
Berkshire, and other parts of the Housatonic region. Saddle Mountain, 3,505 feet, is a spur of the 
most western of the two ridges -we have mentioned, known as the Taconic or the Taugkannic hills. 
Mount Washington, another fine peak of this line, has an altitude of 2,624 feet. It rises in the ex- 
treme southern corner of the State, while Saddle Moimtain stands as an outpost in the north-west 
angle. The more eastern of the two hill-ranges here is called the Hoosic Ridge. Noble isolated 
mountain peaks overlook the winding waters and valleys of the Connecticut — some of them though 
not of remarkable altitude, commanding scenes of wondrous interest, as Mount Holyoke and 
Mount Tom, near Northampton. North of the middle of the State is the Wachusett Mountain, 
■with an elevation of 2,018 feet. 

On Hudson's Brook, in Adams, there is found a remarkable natural bridge, 50 feet high, span- 
ning a limestone ravine 500 feet in'length. In New Marlborough, the tourist will see a singular 
rock poised with such marvellous art that a finger can move it ; and on Farmington River, in 
Sandisfield, he will delight himself with the precipices, 300 feet high, kno-wn as the Hanging 
Mountain. 

Massachusetts has some valuable mineral springs, though none of them are places of general 
resort. In Hopkinton, mineral waters impregnated with carbonic acid and carbonates of iron and 
lime ; in Winchendon, a chalybeate spring, and one in Shutesbury, containing muriate of lime. 
But we need not make further mention of those points of interest here, as we shall have occasion 
to visit them all, under the head of one or other of the group of Ne-w England States, as wo follow 
the net-work of routes by which they may be reached. 



48 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



While the most thoughtless traveller -will thus find, in the physical aspect of Massachusetts, 
ample sources of pleasure, the more earnest -will not fail to draw yet higher delight from the 
strongly-marked viorale of the country. Though small in area, compared with some other States 
of the confederacy, it is yet, in all the qualities which make national fame, one of the greatest of 
them all. Nowhere are there records of historical incident of higher sequence ; nowhere a more 
advanced social position, or a greater intellectual attainment ; nowhere a nohler spirit of commer- 
cial enterprise ; nowhere a more inventive genius, a more indomitable industry. 

In Massachusetts, more than in any other section of the Union, the dullest perception will ho 
impressed with the evidences of aU the highest and best characteristics of the American mind 
and heart, those wise and persistent qualities, which the Pilgrim Fathers first planted upon the 
shore at Plymouth, where the history of the State began, with the landing of the May Flower, on 
the memorable 22d of December, 1620 : the same righteous and unyielding nature which com- 
menced the struggle for the national independence, in 1775, at Lexington and Bunker Hill. 

Railways. — In a State so crowded with .active and prosperous cities and homes as Mass.achu- 
setts, and among a people of such wonderful will and energy and ambition, there is, of course, no 
lack of railway communication — that great modern test of national enterprise ; and so Massachu- 
setts, while excelling all her sister States in every phase of industrialand mechanical achievement, 
has built (her area and population considered) more miles of railway than either of them. The 
iron tracks cover all the land, uniting all parts of the State to all others, and to every section of 
the Republic. T\'e forbear to catalogue these routes at this point, as we shall follow them all, 
closely, in our visits to the several sections of the State. 



ROUTES TO BOSTON FROM NEW YORK. 

Route 1. liaihcatj— From the depot in Fourth 
av. cor. 27th st., via New Haven, Hartford, 
Springfield, and Worcester, 236 miles, twice a 
day ; or by the new Shore Line, via New Haven, 
New London, Stonington, and Providence. A 
pleasant and very speedy route to the latter city. 

Route 2. Stoninglo?i— By steamer, daily, 
from pier No. 18 North River, to Groton, 
Ct. ; thence by railwaj', via Providence, R. I. 

Route 3. Fall Iiiver—8tea.mer, d.aily, at 5 p. 
M., from pier No. 3. North River, via Newport, 
R. L; thence by railwny. 

Route 4. Noricicli Line — Steamer, daily, from 
pier No. 39, North River, to New London, Conn. ; 
thence by railway, t^ia Norwich, Ct., and "Worces- 
ter, Mass. 

The most expeditious way between New York 
and Boston is that which we have marked No. 
1, Railroad Routes— generally called the New 
Haven Line and the Shore Line. The time on 
these lines is between 8 and 9 hours, leaving one 
city in the morning and reaching the other in 
the afternoon, or loa^-ing in the afternoon and 
arriving before midnight. All the other routes, 
by steamboat and railway, occupy the night, 
starting about 5 P. ii., and arriving by dawn 
next daj'. 

The New Haven route (No. 1), is upon the N. 
Y. and N. H. road for 76 miles, to New Haven 
aU the distance along the south line of the State 
of Connecticut, near the shore of the Long 
Island Sound. To Williams Bridge, 13 miles 



from New York, the track is the same as that 
of the Harlem R. R. to Albany. Leaving Wil- 
Uam's Bridge, we pass the pretty suburban vil- 
lages of New Rochelle, Mamaroneck, Eye, and 
Port Chester, and reach Stamford, 36 miles from 
New York. (The Shore Line loaves tlie other 
route at New Haven and extends through New 
London, Stonington, and Providence.) 

Norwalk. — Hotels : — Allis House. 

Norwalk (New Haven Line— 44 m.) is a pleas- 
ant village upon Norwalk river. The Norwalk 
and Danbury railroad, 24 miles, comes in at this 
point. The quiet, rural beauties of Norwalk 
make it one of the most availableof the summer 
homes of Connecticut ; particularly as it is 
scarcely beyond suburban reach of New York. 



Bridgeport, Conn. 

ley House. 



-Hotels -.— The Sian- 



Bridgeport, 58 miles from New York, is the 
southern tei-minus of the Honsatonic R. R., 
which traverses the valley of the Housatonic 
110 miles to Pittsfleld, Mass. This route is 
through the most picturesque portions of Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts — the western or 
mountain regions. (See VaUe;/ of the Housa- 
tonic.) The Naugatuck R. R. extends hence via 
Waterbury to Winsted. Steamers ply between 
New York and Bridgeport. Bridgeport is upon 
an arm of the Long Island Sound, at the mouth 
of the Pequannock River. A terrace height of 50 



MASSAOHtrSETTS. 



49 



feet, occupied by 'bcautiful private mansions and 
cottages, commands a charming view of tlie 
town and the Sound. 



New Haven. 

excellent house. 



-H0TKL3 •.—Tlie Tontine. An 



New Haven, 76 miles from New York, is one 
of the most beautiful and naost interesting places 
in New England. It is known as the city of Elms 
in a land of Elms, from the extraordinary num- 
ber of beautiful trees of this species by which 
the streets are so gratefully shaded and so 
charmingly embellished. New Haven is a semi- 
capital of Connecticut. It is famous as the seat 
of Yale College, which has sent out more gradu- 
ates than any other Institution in America. The 
buildings of the college, which occupy noar!jr a 
square, are among the chief attractions of the 
city ; especially the apai-tments devoted to the 
Pine Arts, and occupied by the large collection 
of the works of the eminent painter Trumbull. 
The American Journal of Science and Art, edit- 
ed by Professors Sillimaii and Dana, and other 
literary periodicals, are published here. Steam- 
boats -connect the city with New York. The 
New Haven and Northampton or Canal R. R. 
extends 76 miles to Northampton, and the New 
Haven and New London R. R. 50 miles to New 
London. 

Hartford.— Hotels:— 77ie United States, etc. 

Hartford. Leaving New Haven our route 
turns northward froin the Sound, over the New 
Haven, Hartford, and Springfield R. R. Hart- 
ford, a semi-capital of Connecticut, is 36 miles 
from New Haven and 112 from New York, and 
124 from Boston. It is upon the right bank of 
the Connecticut River, navigable to*this point 
by sloops and smaU steamboats, 50 miles up from 
Long Island Sound. Among the literary and 
educational institutions of Hartford are Trinity 
College, the Wadsworth Athenseum, the Con- 
necticut Historical Society. Among its chief 
benevolent establishments, for whicli it is fa- 
mous, are the American Asylum for the Deaf 
and Dumb, and the Retreat for the Insane. 
That old historic relic, the Charter Oak, held in 
so much reverence, stood in Hartford until 1856, 
when it was prostrated by a violent storm. Mrs. 
L. H. Sigourney, the poetess, resides here. The 
population of Hartford la 29,000. 

Springfield, Mass.— Hotels -.—Ifassasoit 
House. A popular establishment. 

Springfield is upon the Connecticut River, 26 
miles north of Hartford, 98 miles from Boston, 

3 



and 138 from New York. The U. S. Arsenal, 
located here, is the largest in the Union. It is 
charmingly perched upon Arsenal Hill, looking 
down upon the beautiful town, the river, and the 
fruitful valleys. This noble panor.ama is seen 
with still better effect from the cupola which 
crowns one of the arsenal buildings. This estab- 
lishment employs nearly 300 hands, and 175,000 
stands of arms are kept constantly on hand. 
This is a famous gathering point of railroads. 
The Connecticut valley routes start hence, and 
furnish one of the pleasantest ways from New 
York to the "White Mountains, through North- 
ampton, Brattleboro', Bellows Falls, to Wells 
River and Littleton, N. H. (See " Valley of the 
Connecticut" and White Mountain routes. No. 
10.) The Western railway from Albany to Bos- 
ton passes through Springfield also, and contin- 
ues our present route to Worcester. Population 
about 20,000. 

"Worcester. — Hotels: — The Lincoln House ; 

the Bay State House. 

Worcester is a flourishing city of 25,000 people, 
45 miles from Boston, in the centre of one of the 
most productive agricultural regions of Massa- 
chusetts. It is noted for its schools and manu- 
factures. Quite a net-work of railways connects 
the city with all parts of the country. The 
Western road, direct from Boston to Albany; 
the Worcester and Nashua, communicating 
through other routes with the St. Lawrence 
River ; the Worcester and Providence ; the Nor- 
wich and Worcester, and the Boston and Wor- 
cester, which we now follow to the end of our 
present journey. 

The Stonington Route, (No. 2) — This route, as 
well as Nos. 3 and 4, by Fall River and by Nor- 
wich, takes us from New York by steamboat 
around the Battery and Castle Garden, along the 
whole eastern line of the city, and by the citie« 
of Brooklyn and Williamsburg, up the beautiful 
East River by the suburban villages on the Long 
Island shore, by Blackwell's, Ward's, and Ran- 
dall's Islands (covered by the public asylums 
and prisons), through the famous passage of Hell 
Gate, and up Long Island Sound— a gallery of 
admirable pictures, seen as they are from the 
Boston boats, in the declining evening light. 

Stoning'ton. — Hotels : — The Wadawan- 
nuck House. 

Stonington, Conn., is on the Stonington and 
Providence route from New York to Boston, 
and was the terminus of its water travel on the 
Sound from New York, until the late transfer 
of the steamers to the more convenient port of 
Groton, opposite New London, on the Thames. 
The Fall River Route. (No. 3.)— By steamer 



50 



MASSACmJSETTS. 



on Long Island Sound, round Point Judith, and 
up Narragansett Bay to Newport, U. I. (see 
Newport), and tlience by rail to Fall Kiver. From 
Fall Kiver 51 miles to Boston, by Old Colony and 
Fall River K. R. 

Fall Eiver. — Hotels : — Richardson House. 

Fall River is a thriving town of nearly 12,000 
inhabitants and very extensive manufactures. 
It is at the entrance of Taunton River into 
Mount Hope Bay, an arm of the Karragansett. 
The historic eminence of Mount Hope, the home 
of King Philip, is admirably seen across the bay. 
Steamboats connect Newport with Providence 
indirectly by this route via Narragansett Bay. 

The Norwich Route, (No. 4.)— This line is also 
by steamboat from New York, via Loug Island 
Sound to the mouth of the Thames River, which 
it ascends to New London, and passengers there 
take cars and follow the course of the Thames 
through Connecticut, directly north to Worces- 
ter ; thence with other lines to Boston. 

BOSTON AND VICINITT. 

Hotels. The most fashionable are the Tre- 
moat House, on Tremout street ; the Revere 
House, oa Bowdoin square ; the Winthrop 
House, Tremont street ; the American House, 
Hanover street ; the Adams ; the United States, 
&;c. 

Boston is one of the most interesting of the gi-eat 
American cities, not only from its position as 
second in commercial rank to New York alone, 
but from its thrilling traditionary and historical 
associations, from the earliest days of discoveiy 
and colonization on the western continent ; and 
through all the trials and triumphs of the ohild- 
hooJ, youth, and manhood of the Republic — 
from its dauntless public enterprise, and from 
its high social culture and morals ; from its great 
educational and literary facilities; from its nu- 
merous and admirable benevolent establish- 
ments ; from its elegant public and private 
architecture, and from the surpassing natural 
beauty of all its suburban landscape. 

Boston is divided into three sections, Boston 
Proper, East, and South Boston. The old city is 
built upon a peninsula of some 700 acres, very 
uneven in surface, and rising at three different 
points into eminences, one of which is 13S feet 
above the sea The Indian name of this penin- 
sula was Shawmut, meaning " Living Foun- 
tains." It was called by the earlier inhabitants 
Tremont or Trimountain, its sobriquet at the 
present day. The name of Boston was bestowed 
on it in honor of the Rev. John Cotton, who 
came hither from Boston in England. The first 
■white inhabitant of this peninsula, now cover- 



ed by Boston Proper, was the Rev. John Black-' 
stone. Here he lived all alone nntil John 
Winthrop— afterwards the first Governor of 
Massachusetts — came across the river from 
Charlestown, where he had dwelt with some 
fellow-emigrants for a short time. About 1C35 
Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now xjopu- 
lous peninsula for X30, and removed to Rhodo 
Island. The first church was built in 1G32 ; the 
first wharf in 1673. Four years later a post- 
master was appointed, and in 1704 (April 17), 
the first newspaper, called the "Boston News- 
Letter," was published. 

A narrow isthmus, which is now called the 
Neck, joins the peninsula of Old Boston to the 
main land on the south, where is now the suburb 
of Roxbury. 

Many bridges, most of them free, link Cam- 
bridge, Charlestown, Chelsea, and South Boston 
with the Peninsula. These structures are among 
the peculiarities of the place, in their fashion, 
their number, and their length. The first one 
which was built was that over Charles River to 
Charlestown, 1,503 feet long. The Old Cam- 
bridge Bridge, across the Charles River to Cam- 
bridge, is 2,758 feet in length, with a causeway 
of 3,432 feet. The South Boston Bridge, which 
leads from the Neck t-o South Boston, is 1,550 
feet long. The Canal Bridge between Boston 
and East Cambridge, is 2,796 feet, and from E. 
Cambridge another bi-idge extends 1,820 feet, to 
Prison Point, Charlestown. Boston Free Bridge 
to South Boston is 500 feet ; and "Warren Bridge 
to Charlestown is 1,390 feet. Besides these 
bridges, a causeway of a mile and a half extends 
from the foot of Beacon street to Sewell's Point, 
in Brookline. This caiiseway is built across the 
bay upon a substantial dam. Other roads lead 
into Boston over especial bridges, connecting the 
city with the main as closely as if it were a part 
thereof. Thus the topography of Boston is quito 
anomalous as a mountain city in the sea I 

South Boston extends some two miles along 
the south side of the harbor, from Old Boston to 
Fort Independence. Near the centre, and two 
miles from the State House, are Dorchester 
Heights, the memorable battle-ground where, in 
the Revolution, the enemy were driven from 
Boston. A fine view of the city, of the vicinity, 
and the sea, may bo obtained from these Heights. 
Here, too, is a large reservoir of the Boston wa- 
ter works. 

East Boston (the "Island Ward") is in the 
western part of Noddle's Island. It was the 
homestead of Samuel Maverick, while John 
Blackstone was sole monarch of the peninsula, 
1630. Here is the wharf, 1,000 feet long, of the 
Cunard steamers. E. Boston is connected by two 
ferries with the city proper. It is the terminus 



'^^ 



MASSAOHTTSETTS. 



51 



of the Grand Junction R. K. Chelsea is near 
by. 

The streets of Boston, which grew up accord- 
ing to circumstances, are many of them very in- 
tricate, and troublesome to unravel, a difficulty 
which is being gradually obviated in a degree. 
The fashionable promenades and shopping ave- 
nues are Washington, Tremont, Summer, and 
Winter streets. 

Boston Common is a large and charming public 
park in the old city, and is, very justly, the pride 
of the people and the admiration of strangers. 
It contains nearly 50 acres, of every variety of 
surface, up-hill and down, and around, all 
covered with inviting walks, grassy lawns, and 
grand old trees. A delicious pond and fountain 
occupy a central point in the grounds, and 
around them are many of the old mansions of 
the place — led, on the upper hill, by the massive, 
dome-surmounted walls of the State Capitol. 
The Common drops from Beacon street, the 
southern declivity of Beacon Hill, by a gentle 
descent to Charles River. 

Faneuil Hall. This famous edifice, called the 
" Cradle of Liberty," is in Dock square. It is 
about 109 years old, and is an object of deep in- 
terest to Americans. Here the fathers of the 
Revolution met to harangue the people on the 
events of that stirring period ; and often since 
that time the great men of the State and nation 
have made its walls resound with their elo- 
quence. It was presented to the city by Peter 
Paneuil, a distinguished merchant, who, on the 
4th of July, 1740, made an offer, in a town-meet- 
ing, to build a market-house. There being, at 
that time, none in the town, it was, as a matter 
of course, accepted. The building was begun 
the following year, and finished in 1742. The 
donor so far exceeded his promise, as to erect a 
spacious and beautiful Town Hall over it, and 
several other convenient rooms. In commem- 
oration of his generosity, the town, by a spe- 
cial vote, conferred his name upon the Hall ; 
and, as a further testimony of respect, it was 
voted that Mr. FaneuiPs full-length portrait be 
drawn at the expense of the town, and placed in 
the Hall. This, with other pictures, can be seen 
by visitors. 

Tlie State House is on the summit of Beacon 
Hill, and fronting the " Common." Its founda- 
tion is 110 feet above the level of the sea. Length 
173 feet, breadth 61. The edifice was completed 
in J79S, at a cost of $133,330, about three years 
having been occupied in its construction. On the 
entrance floor is to be seen Chantrey's statue of 
Washington. Near by is the staircase leading 
to the dome, where visitors are required to regis- 
ter their names, and from the top of which is 



obtained a fine view of the city, the bay, with its 
islands, and the country around. 

Tlie Exchange, on State street, was completed 
in the fall of 1842. It is 70 feet high and 250 feet 
deep, covering about 13,000 feet of ground. The 
front is built of Quincy granite, with four pilas- 
ters, each 45 feet high, and weighing 55 tons 
each. The roof is of wrought iron, and covered 
with galvanized sheet iron ; and all the principal 
staircases are fire-proof, being constructed of 
stone and iron. The centre of the basement 
story is occupied by the Post Office. The great 
central hall, a magnificent room, is 58 by 80 feet, 
having IS very beautiful columns in imitation of 
Sienna marble, with Corinthian capitals, and a 
sky-light of colored glass, finished in the most 
ornamental manner. This room is used for the 
merchants' exchange and subscribers' reading- 
room. 

The Custom House is located at the foot of 
State street, between the heads of Long and 
Central wharves. It is in the form of a cross ; 
the extreme length being 140 feet, breadth 95 
feet. The longest arms of the cross are 75 feet 
wide, and the shortest 67 feet, the opposite fronts 
and ends being alike. The entire height to the 
to]5 of the dome is 90 feet. 

The Court House, a fine building in Court 
square, fronting on Court street, is built of 
Quincy granite. 

The City Hall is near the Court House, and 
fronting on School street, with an open yard in 
front. Here, in September, 1S5G, a colossal bronze 
statue of Benjamin Franklin, who was a native 
of Boston, was erected, with great public parade 
and rejoicing. This fine work was modelled by 
R. B. Greenough, Esq., a brother of the distin- 
guished sculptor, Horatio Greenough. 

The Massachusetts Hospital covers an area of 
four acres on Charles River, between Allen and 
Bridge streets. Near by, at the foot of Bridge 
street, is the Mass. Medical College. The Boston 
Music Hall fronts on Winter street and Bum- 
stead place. 

The Boston Athenmum occupies an imposing 
edifice on Beacon near Tremont street. It was 
incorporated in 1807, and is one of the best en- 
dowed literary establishments in the world. 
There are in the library 50,000 volumes, and an 
extensive collection of manuscripts. The Athe- 
nreum possesses a fine gallery of paintings, in 
connection with which the annual display's of the 
Boston artists are made. 

The Massachusetts Historical Society, organ- 
ized in 1794, possesses 12,000 volumes, and many 
valuable manuscripts, coins, charts, maps, &c. 
The Boston Public Library is on Boylston street. 
It possesses, at this time, about 80,000 volumes. 



52 



MASSACHTTSETTS. 



The American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 
one of the oldest societies of the kind in the 
countrj', has 15,000 volumes. It occupies an 
apartment in the AthcncBum. Besides these 
libraries, Boston has many others, as, the State 
Library, the Bowditch, the Social Law Library, 
<fcc. 

The Lowell Institute provides for regular 
courses of free lectures upon natural and re- 
vealed religion, and many scientific and art top- 
ics. We may mention, also, among literary, 
scientific, and art societies of the city, the Ly- 
ceum, the Natural History, the American Ori- 
ental, the American Statistical, the Musical 
Educational, and the Handel aud Haydn Socie- 
ties, and the Boston Academy of Music. 

Harvard University. This venerable seat of 
learning is at Cambridge, three miles from the 
city of Boston. It was founded in 1638, by the 
Rev. John Harvard. The University embraces, 
besides its collegiate department, law, medical, 
and theological schools. The buildings are 15 
in number, all located in Cambridge, except th.at 
of the medical school in North Grove street, Ln 
Boston. 

Tlie Old Washington Headquarters, at Cam- 
bridge, known as the Cragie House, where the 
poet Henry "W. Longfellow has resided for many 
years, is near the Harvard University. It was 
at Cambridge that the painter, Washington AU- 
ston, lived and died. 

Boston, always so much distinguished for its 
literary character, as to have won the name of 
the Athens of America, has, besides its innu- 
merable libraries and institutions of learning, 
more than a hundred jieriodical publications and 
newspapers, dealing with all themes of study 
aud all shades of opinion and inquiry. 

The churches of the city are numerous, as 
might be expected of the home of the Puritans. 
They are more than 100 in number — the Unita- 
rians having the largest share. Many of the 
churches are very costly aud imposing edifices. 
The oldest is Christ Church, built in 1723, and 
the next is the famous " Old South," erected in 
1730. This is a building of great historical inte- 
I'est. 

Theatres. The Boston Academy of Music, 
361 Washington street ; the Howard Athenaeum, 
Howard street ; the Museum. Tremont street. 
The Jfeio Public Garden is a very beautiful 
resort. 

Bunker Hill Monuineiit, commemora- 
tive of the eventful battle fought on the spot, is 
in Charlestown. The top of this structure com- 
mands a magnificent view, embracing a wide 
extent of land and water scenery. The journey 
up is somewhat tedious, traversing nearly 300 
steps— yet this is forgotten in the charming 



scene and delightful air. On the hill is a stono 
marking the spot where Warren fell. Horse cara 
run from the headjDf Tremont st. to the monu- 
ment. Near at hand is the United States Navy 
Yard, containing, among other things, a rope- 
walk— the longest in the country. 

Mount Auburn Cemetery, about a mile 
from Harvard University, and about four from 
Boston, by the road from Old Cambridge to 
Watertown. It is the most beautiful of Ameri- 
can rural burying-plaoes, embellished by land- 
scape, and horticultural art and taste, and by a 
most picturesque chapel, and many elegant and 
costly monuments. Its walks and lanes, and 
lawns make it the most delightful of all the re- 
sorts in the vicinage of the city. Cars run from 
the station in Bowdoin square every 15 minutes, 
during the day, and until half past eleven o'clock 
at night. Mr. Cushing^s Garden, a place of great 
beauty, is a short distance beyond Mount Au- 
burn, in Watertown. Tickets may be obtained 
gratis on application at the Horticultural Store 
in School street. Fresh Pond, another charming 
place of resort, is about four miles from Boston, 
and about half a mile from Mount Auburn. Tho 
other fine sheets of water in the vicinity of Bos- 
ton, well worthy the attention of visitors, are 
Horn, Spot, Spy, and Mystic Ponds. 

WATERING AND OTHER PLACES IN 
THE VICINITY OF BOSTON. 

Naliant. — Hotels: — The Nahant House, an 
elegant and spacious edifice. 

Nahant, a delightful watering-place, is situ- 
ated about 12 miles from Boston, by water, and 
14 by land. During the summer season, a steam- 
boat plies daily. Fare, 25 cents. This is a most 
agreeable excursion, affording an opportunitj^, in 
passing through the harbor, for seeing some of 
tne many beautiful islands with which it is stud- 
ded. Nahant may also be reached by taking tho 
Eastern Railway cars as far as Lynn, and thence 
walking or riding a distance of three miles, along 
the hard sandy beach, in full view of the open 
sea ; or by omnibuses, which intersect the rail- 
road cars, at Lynn, several times daily. 

The peninsula is divided into Great and Little 
Nahant, and Bass Neck. The former is the 
largest division, containing 300 acres — a part of 
which is under cultivation — many handsome 
dwellings, and a spacious hotel, with a piazza on 
each floor. From this place the visitor has a 
boundless sea-coast view. 

On the south side of Great Nahant is the dark 
cave or grotto, called the Swallow''s Cave, 10 feet 
wide, 5 feet high, and 70 long, increasing in a 
short distance, to 14 feet in breadth, and 18 or 20 



MASSACHUSETTS. — ^NE"W HAMPSSIEE. 



53 



in licigM. On the north shore of the peninsula 
is a chasm 20 or 30 feet in depth, called the Spout- 
ing Horn, into which, at about half tide, the 
water rushes with great violence and noise, forc- 
ing a jet of water through an aperture in the 
rock to a considerable height in the air. 

Pllilip's Beach, a short distance north-east 
of N"ahant, is another beautiful beach, and a 
noted resort for persons in search of pleasure or 
health. 

Nantasket Beach, 12 miles from Boston, 
is situated on the east side of the peninsula of 
Nautasket, which forms the south-east side Of- 
Boston Harbor. The beach, which is remarka- 
ble for its great beauty, is four miles in length, 
and celebrated for its fine shell-flsh, sea-fowl, and 
good bathing. 

Chelsea Beach, about three miles in length, 
is situated in the town of Chelsea, and is another 
fine place of resort. A ride along this beach on 
a warm day is deUghtful. It is about five miles 
from Boston, and may be reached through 
Charlestown over Chelsea Bridge. 

liynn. — Hotels : — Sagamore House. 

■ Lynn is nine miles from Boston, on the East- 
ern Railroad. It is charmingly situated on the 
north-east shore of Massachusetts Baj', in the 
vicinity of Nahant, and is a famous place for the 
manufacture of ladies' shoes. This business, 
here, employs 150 establishments and 10,000 
hands, half of whom are females. It is esti- 
mated that 4,500,000 pairs of ladies' and misses' 
shoes are made here every year, amounting, in 
value, to $3,500,000. Besides the product of the 
city, another half a million pairs are made in the 
neighborhood. 

Salem is a beautiful citj^, 16 miles from Bos- 
ton, by the Eastern Railroad. It extends about 
two miles along and three quarters of a mile 
across the peninsula formed by the north and 
the south rivers. It is distinguished for its lit- 
erary institutions, and for its commercial enter- 
prise. Next to Plymouth, it is the oldest town 
in New England. Salem was the chief scene of 
the "witchcraft" madness in 1692. Upon Gal- 
lows Hill — a fine eminence overlooking the city — 
19 persons of the town and the neighborhood 
were executed for this supposed crime. 

Salem is also distinguished for its services in 
the war of the Revolution. Marblehead is 5 
miles from Salem, by a branch road. 

Beverly is upon an arm of Ann Harbor, two 
miles from Salem, with which it is connected by 
a bridge of 1,500 feet, and from Boston 18 miles, 
via Eastern Railroad. 

Wenham, 22 miles from Boston, via Eastern 
Railway. "Wenham Pond, a beautiful sheet of 



water, about a mile square, affords abundance 
of excellent fish, and is much visited by persons 
fond of angling. It is also noted for the quality 
and quantity of its ice, a large amount of which 
is yearly exported. 

Newbury port, Mass.— Hotels :— The 
Merrimac House. 

Newburyport, Mass., 36 miles from Boston, 
via Eastern Railroad, lies on a gentle acclivity, 
on the south bank of the Merrimac River, near 
its union with the Atlantic. It is considered 
one of the most beautiful towns iu New England. 
In consequence of a sand-bar at the mouth of 
the hai-bor, its foreign commerce has greatly de- 
clined. The celebrated George Whitefleld died 
in this town in September, 1770. 

Salisbury Beach, celebrated for its beauty 
and salubrity, is much visited during the warm 
season. It is from four to five miles distant 
from Newburj'port. 

Hampton, 43 miles from Boston, via East- 
ern Railroad, is pleasantly situated near the At- 
lantic coast. From elevations in the vicinity 
there are fine views of the ocean, the Isle of 
Sho.ils, and of the sea-coast from Capo Ann to 
Portsmouth. Hampton Beach has become a fa- 
vorite place of resort for parties of pleasure, in- 
valids, and those seeking an invigorating air. 
Great Boar's Head, in this town, is an abrupt 
eminence extending into the sea, and dividing 
the beaches on either side. There is here an ho- 
tel for the accommodation of visitors. The fish- 
ing a short distance from the shore is very good. 

The Isle of Shoals is distant about nine 
milts from Hampton and from Portsmouth. 
These shoals are seven in number. Hog Island, 
the largest, contains 350 acres, mostly rocky and 
barren. Its greatest elevation is ."iQ feet above 
high-water mark. Upon this island is a hotel, 
recently erected. These rocky isles are a pleas- 
ant resort for water parties ; and the bracing air, 
while refreshing to the sedentarj', cannot be 
otherwise than salutary to invalids. — Rije Beach 
is another noted watering-place on this coast, 
much frequented by persons from the neigh- 
boring towns. 

Portsmouth, N". H.— Hotels :— Rocking- 
ham House. 

Portsmouth, N. H., 56 miles from Boston, and 
51 from Portland, Maine, by the Eastern Rail- 
road, the principal town of the State, and the 
only se.aport, is built on the south side of the 
Piscataqua River. Its situation is a fine one, 
being on a peninsula near the mouth of the river. 
It is connected by bridges with Kittery in Maine, 
and Newcastle on Grand Island, at the mouth 
of the river. The harbor is safe and deep, and 



64 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



is never frozen, its strong tides preventing the 
formation of ico. There is here a United States 
Navy Yard, one of the safest and most conve- 
nient -on the coast. The North America, the 
first hne-of-ljattle ship launched in this hemi- 
sphere, was built here during the Revolution. 

Andover, the seat of Phillips' Academy 
and of the Andover Theological Seminary, is 23 
miles from Boston, on the Boston and Maine 
Railway. 

Lowell. — Hotels : — Washington and Merri- 
mac. 

Lowell. This famous mannfacturing city, the 
first in the Union, is upon the Merrimac, 26 miles 
from Boston, by the Boston and Lowell Railroad. 
Lowell was incorporated as a town in 1S26, and 
in 1854 its population was about 37,000. There 
are over 50 mills in operation in Lowell, employ- 
ing a capital of $13,900,000, and nearly 13,000 
hands, of whom about 9,000 are females. 

Concord is situated on the river of the same 
name, 20 miles from Boston, by the Fitchburg 
Railroad. It is celebrated as the place where 
the first effectual resistance was made, and the 
first British blood shed, in the Revolutionary 
war. On the 19th of April, 1775, a party of Brit- 
ish troops was ordered by General Gage to pro- 
ceed to tbis place to destroy some military stores, 
which had been deposited here b3' the province. 
The troops were met at the north bridge by the 
people of Concord and the neighboring towns, 
and forcibly repulsed. A handsome granite 
monument, erected in 1S36, commemorates the 
heroic and patriotic achievement. 

Lexing'ton.— Hotels :— 

Lexington, the scene of the memorable battle 
of Lexington, at the commencement of the Revo- 
lution, April 19, 1775. From Boston by Fitch- 
burg and Ijranch railways through West Cam- 
bridge — a fine ride of eleven miles ; fare, 35 cents. 

Brighton is five miles from IBoston, on the 
Boston and Woi-eester Railroad. This is a beau- 
tiful suburban town, on the soutli side of Charles 
River. It is also a noted cattle market. 

Quincy is eight miles from Boston, by the Old 
Colony and Fall River Road. Famoiis for its 
granite quarries, and as the birth-place of John 
Hancoclt, Josiah Quincy, Jr. ; Presidents John 
and John Quincy Adams, and other eminent 
men. The fine estate of the Quincy family is 
here. 

Plyzaouth.. — Hotels : — TVie Samosct Bbitse. 

Plymouth is 37 miles from Boston, by the Old 



Colony and Fall River and branch roads. It is 
a spot of especial interest, as the landing-place 
of the Pilgrim Fathers, and as the oldest town 
in New England. The immortal Plymouth Rook 
lies at the head of Hedge's Wharf. It is now 
much reduced from its ancient proportions, be- 
ing only 6^- feet across its greatest breadth, and 
but 4 feet thick. The surface only is visible 
above the ground. The landing of the Pilgrims 
from the Mayflower occurred on the 22d De- 
cember, 1620. 

Marshfield, interesting as the home of 
Webster, is 28 miles south-east of Boston, by the 
Old Colony and the South Shore Railways. 

Hing-liam is 17 miles from Boston, by the 
Old Colony and the South Shore Railways; or 
may be reached by a pleasant sail down the bay. 

Cohassett, three miles from Hingham 
(South Shore Road), is a popular sea-side re- 
sort. 

Taunton, Mass. — Hotels : — Taunton 
House. 

Taunton, Mass., is a beautiful town of some 
15,000 inhabitants, situated at the head of navi- 
gation, on the Taunton River. It may be reached 
from Boston, 35 miles ; and from Providence, 30 
miles, by the Boston and Providence Railroad, 
t.aking the New Bedford and Taunton Road at 
Mansfield, about midway between Boston and 
Providence. 

New Bedford.— Hotels • — 

New Bedford is a charming maritime city, of 
some 22,000 people ; situated on an estuary of 
Buzzard's Buy. It is famous for its whale fish- 
erics, in which enterprise it emplo3's between 
300 and 400 ships. New Bedford is the terminus 
of the New Bedford and Taunton Railway, by 
which route, via Mansfield, on the Boston and 
Providence Road, it may be reached from those 
two cities. It is accessible also from New York 
and Boston, by the Fall River route. Distance 
from Boston, 55 miles. 

Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket. 
These famous sea-islands lie ofi" New Bedford, 
vdth which port they are in daily steamboat 
communication. Nantucket may he still more 
easily reached via Cajie Cod Railway to Hy- 
annis. 

MiddleToorougli.— Hotels :— 

Middleborough is a prosperous town on the 
Fall River route, between New York and Bos- 
ton, at its point of junction with the Cape Cod 
Railroad. It is pleasantly situated upon the Taun- 
ton River, 40 miles from Boston. It is the seat 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



55 



of a verj' popular Scholastic Institution, under 
the direction of the Rev. Mr. Jenke. 

Cape Cod and the Sea Islands. Those 
■who delight in tlie sea breezes, in salt -water 
bathing, aud fishuig, and in the physical beau- 
ties and wonders of the ocean changes, will find 
ample gratifioatioa everywhere upon the Atlan- 
tic borders, and especially upon the bold islanded 
coast of New England. 

Besides the -well-known haunts of the Long 
Island and the Jersey shores, of Newport, and 
of the numerous suburban resorts of Boston, to 
which we have elsewhere alluded, the Isle of 
Shoals, off Portsmouth, Martha's Vineyard, 
and Nantucket, off New Bedford, &c., we com- 
mend the summer wanderer to a tour through 
the towns and villages, and along the coasts of 
that very secluded portion of Massachusetts- 
Cape Cod. Let him journey from " Plymouth 
Rock," the inner point, to Provincetown, the 
outer verge, and he will find novelties in both 
physical nature aud social Ufe, which will be 
most agreeable. The Cape Cod Railway from 
Boston will take him far along the Cape, 74 miles 
to Barnstable ; 76 to Yarmouth ; and 80 to 
Hyannis ; or he may go thence by steamboat, 
and afterwards continue from point to point by 
stage. 

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY, RIVER, 
AND RAILWAYS. 

The beautiful valleys watered by the Connec- 
ticut, are among the most inviting portions of 
the New England landscapes ; whether for rapid 
transit, or for protracted stay. The -whole region 
is speedily and pleasantly accessible from every 
point, and may be traversed en route to most of 
the principal summer resorts of New England, 
since many important and very attractive towns 
and villages lie within its area and since it is 
crossed, and reorossed, everywhere, by the in- 
tricate railway system which unites Boston so 
intimately, not only with all the Eastern States, 
but by connection infinite, with the whole coun- 
try. 

The Connecticut, the Queen of New Eng- 
land rivers — the chiefest and most beautiful — 
rises in the hills of New Hampshire and Ver- 
mont, near the Canada borders ; and flowing 
nearly southward, for 400 miles, separates the 
two States of its mountain birth ; traverse the en- 
tire breadth of Massachusetts snd Connecticut, to 
the Long Island Sound. Its waters are swelled by 
the tribute of the Passumpsic, the White, the 
Deerfield, the Westfleld, the Ammanoosuc, and 
other rivers. It is navigable for sloops 50 miles 
up to Hartford, and with the help of numerous 
canals, very mueh farther. The Connecticut 



Valley is perhaps 300 miles long in a straight 
line, with a mean width of 40 miles. The soil is 
as fertile as the landscape is beautiful. 

Railroads from New York, Boston, Albany, 
and other places, meet at Springfield, the south- 
ern threshold of the most picturesque part of the 
Connecticut ; so we will commence our tour 
here — referring the traveller to the routo from 
New York to Boston, for mention of Springfield 
itself. 

Northampton.— Hotels :— 

The Mansion House, an elegant establishment, 
upon the upper edge of the viUage ; Warner's 
Hotel, in the business street ; and the Nonotuck 
House at the Railway station. 

Northampton, Mass., is 17 miles above Spring- 
field, on the line of railway which follows the 
Connecticut, up to the diverging lines for the 
White Hills of New Hampshire, and for Ver- 
mont and Canada. It is in every way one of tho 
most chewming villages in New England, and 
none other is more sought for summer resi- 
dences. It lies about a mile west of the Connecti- 
cut, surrounded by rich allu-vdal meadows, 
sweeping out in broad expanse, from the base of 
grand mountain ridges. The village is not too 
large for country pleasures, the population of 
the township falling within 6,000 ; yet, its natu- 
ral advantages are so great, and so many jjleas- 
ant people have established themselve hero in 
such pleasant and beautiful places, and the hotels 
are so admirable, that the tourist, the most dif- 
ficile, will not miss either the social or the physi- 
cal enjoyments of his city home. Even the little 
business part of Northampton has a cosy, rural 
air, and all around are charming villas, nestled 
on green lawns, and among fragrant flowers. 
Among the specialties of Northampton, are 
several distinguished water-cure establishments, 
the chief of which is that known as Round Hill, 
a large and beautifui place, upon the fine 
eminence after which it is named, just west of 
the village. The schools here have always been 
in very high repute. Its chief academy is the 
Collegiate Institute. The vicinage of North- 
ampton is, perhaps, the most beautiful portion 
of the Connecticut Valley, the most fertile in 
its interval land, and the most striking in its 
mountain scenes ; for it looks out directly upon 
the crags and crests of those famous hills — 
Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom. 

Northampton is united to New Haven, by the 
New Haven and Northampton Railroad, 76 miles 
long, as well as via Springfield. 

Mount Holyoke is directly across the river 
from Northampton ; a good carriage road winds 
to the summit, 1,120 feet above the sea, where 
there is a little inn and an observatory. There 



56 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



are not of its kind many scenes in the ^orkl 
more teautiful tlian that -rt-hich the visitor to 
Mount Holj'olie looks down upon : the varied 
features of the picture— fruitful valleys, smiling 
tillages and farms, winding waters ; and, afar olT, 
on every side, blue mountain peaks innumer- 
able, ■will hold liim long in happy contempla- 
tion. 

" Mount Holyoke," says Mr. Eden's Handbook 
to the region, " is a part of a ridge of greenetone, 
commencing; with West Rock near New Haven, 
and proceeding northerly across the whole of 
Connecticut ; but its elevation is email until it 
reaches Easthampton, when it suddenly mounts 
tip to the heiglit of nearly 1,000 feet, and forms 
Mount Tom. The ridge crosses the Connecticut, 
in a north-east direction, and curving still more 
to the east, terminates 10 miles from the river, 
in the north-west part of Belchertown. All that 
part of the ridge east of the river is called Hol- 
yoke, though the Prospect House is erected near 
its south-western extremity, opposite Northamp- 
ton, and near the Connecticut. This is by far 
the most commanding spot on the mountain, 
tliough several distinct summits, that have asyet 
received no uniform name, afford delightful 
prospects. 

IVtount Tom, upon the opposite side of the 
river, is not yet so much visited as are its neigh- 
boring clills of Holyoke, though it is consider- 
ably higher, and the panorama from its crest is 
no less broad and beaxitiful. 

The village of Easthampton is situated on the 
west side of Mount Tom, four miles from Korth- 
ampton. It contains a very extensive button 
manufactory, well d£serviug of a visit from those 
who can appreciate mechanical ingenuity. The 
principal feature of the place, however, is its 
noble seminary for the youth of both sexes, 
which was founded and liTserally endowed by the 
Hon. Bamuel Williston, at an expense of $55,000, 
and has been in successful operation 15 years, 
having now an average attendance of about 200 
pupils. 

Ou the east side of Mount Tom and on the 
river is the village of South Hadley, famous as 
the seat of the Mount Holyoke Female Seminary, 
founded and for manj' j'ears conducted by Miss 
Mary Lyon. This institution has sent out hun- 
dreds of graduates, as teachers, into all parts of 
the land. Soittb Hadley has many spots which 
afford most agreeable prospects. Standing on 
the elevated bank of the river and facing the 
north-west, you look directlj'upthe Connecticut, 
where it passes between Holyoke and Tom ; 
those mountains rising with precipitous boldness, 
on either side of the valley through the opening, 
the river is seen for two or three miles, enliven- 
ed by one or two lovely islands, while over the rich 



meadows, that constitute the banks, are scattered 
trees, through which, half hidden, appears in the 
distance the village of Northampton, its more con- 
spicuous edifices loeing only visible. 

The village of Hadley is connected with North- 
ampton by a bridge over the Connecticut. The 
river immediately above the town, leaving its 
general course, turns north-west ; then, after 
winding to the south again, turns directly east ; 
and thus having wandered five miles, encloses, ex- 
cept on the east, a beautiful interval, containing 
between two and three thousand acres. On tho 
isthmus of this peninsula lies the principal street 
— the handsomest, by nature, in New England. 
It is a mile in length, running directly north and 
south ; is sixteen rods in breadth ; is nearly a 
perfect level ; is covered during the fine season 
with a rich verdure ; abuts at both ends on the 
river, and yields everywhere a delightful pros- 
pect. 

In this town resided for fifteen or sixteen 
years Wlialley and Goff, two of those who com- 
posed the court for the trial of King Charles the 
First, and who signed the warrant for Iiis execu- 
tion. They came to Hadley in 1664. When the 
house which they occupied was pulled down, 
the bones of Whalley were found buried just 
without the cellar wall, in a kind of tomb formed 
of mason work, and covered with flags of hewn 
stone. After Whalley's death, Gofl' left Hadley 
and went, it was thought, to New York, and 
finally to Rhode Island, where he spent tho 
rest of his life with a son of his deceased con- 
frere. 

Amlierst, the seat of the famous College, is 
built upon an eminence, four miles east of 
Hadley. The College Observatory and espe- 
cially its rich cabinet, should receive due con- 
sideration from the visitor here. 

The Sug-ar-Loaf Mountain comes now 
into view, as we journey on up the vallej^ This 
conical peak of red sandstone rises almost per- 
pendicularly five hundred feet above the plain, 
on the bank of the Connecticut, in the south 
part of Deerfield. As the traveller approaches 
this hill from the south, it seems as if its summit 
were inaccessible. But it can be attained with- 
out diiHculty on foot, and affords a delightful 
view on almost every side. The Connecticut 
and the peaceful village of Sunderland on its 
bank, appear bo near, that one imagines ho 
might almost reach them by a single leap. This 
mountain overlooks a spot which was the scene 
of the most sanguinary conflicts that occurred 
during the early settlement of this region. A 
little south of the mountain the Indians were de- 
feated in 1675 by Captains Lathrop and Beers ; 
and one mile north-west, where the village of 
Bloody Brook now stands (which derived its 



MASSACHUSETTS. — VERMONT. 



57 



name from the circumstance), in the same year, 
Captain Lathrop was drawn into an ambuacade, 
with a company of " eighty young men, the very 
flower of Essex County," who were nearly all 
destroyed. 

The spot where Captain Lathrop and aliout 
thirty of his men were interred, is marljed by a 
stono slab; and a marble monument, about twenty 
feet high and sis feet square, is erected near by. 

Deerfield Mountain rises some 700 feet 
above the plain on which the village stands. 
From the western verge of this summit the view 
is exceedingly interesting. 

The alluvial plain on which Deerfield stands 
is sunk nearly 100 feet below the general level of 
the Connecticut valley ; and at the south-west 
part of this basin, Deerfield River is seen emerg- 
ing from the mountains, and winding in the 
most graceful curves along its ^aole western bor- 
der. Still more beneath the eye is the village, re- 
markable for regularity, and for the number and 
size of the trees along the principal street. The 
meadows, a little beyond, are one of the most ver- 
dant and fertile spots in New England. Upon the 
■whole, this view is one of the most jjerfect rural 
peace and happiness that can be imagined. 

A few miles north of Deerfield, and in the 
same valley, but on higher gi'ound, can be seen 
the lovely village of Greenfield. 

Mount Toby lies in the north part of Sun- 
derland, and west part of Leverett, and is sepa- 
rated from Sugar-Loaf and Deerfield Mountains 
by the Connecticut river. On various jiarts of 
the mountain, interesting views may be obtained, 
but at the southern extremity of the highest 
ridge, there is a finer view of the valley of the 
Connecticut than from any other eminence. 
Elevated above the river nearly 1,000 feet, and 
but a little distance from it, its windings lie di- 
rectly before you ; and the villages that line its 
banks — Sunderland, Hadley, Hatfield, North- 
ampton and Amherst, appear like so many 
sparkling gems in its crown. 

Mount Warner is a hill of less altitude 
than any before named, being only 200 or 300 
feet in height, but a rich view can be had from 
its top of that portion of the valley of the Con- 
necticut just described. It lies in the north part 
of Hadley, not more than half a mile from the 
river, and it can be easily reached by a carriage. 
A visit to it can, therefore, be performed by the 
invalid, and will form no mean substitute for an 
excursion to Holyoke or Toby. 

Greenfield.— Hotels -.—The American — 
The Mansion House. 

Greenfield, in its business quarter, is a lively 
little place. The wonted New England quiet, 
faowever, is all around it, in elm-shaded streets and 

3* 



garden-surrounded villas. The high hiUs in the 
neighborhood open fine pictures of the valleys 
and windings of the great river. 

Greenfield is the terminus of a railway from 
Boston via Fitchburg, 100 miles from the former, 
and 56 luiles from the latter place. Other routes 
now unite it with the railway systems of the 
west and of the north-west. The Green River, 
which flows near the village, is a pretty stream, 
and hard by are the Deerfield and Greenfield 
rivers. Among the manufactures of Greenfield 
there is a tool shop, in which are made S82 dif- 
ferent shapes of carpenter's planes. In an ex- 
tensive cutlery establishment uiJOu Green River, 
300 operatives are employed. 

Vernon. — At Middle Vernon there is a 
charming view up the river, as seen from the 
railway track. Mount Chesterfield, in New 
Hampshire, opposite Brattleborough, rising up 
stoutly in the back-ground. 

Brattleborotigh, — Hotels : — The Revere 
House. 

Brattleborough brings ns fairly out of the 
rich alluvial lands into the upper and more rug- 
ged portions of the Connecticut. The intervals 
now grow narrower, and the hills more stern. 
This beautiful village is in a very picturesque 
district upon the west side of the river. It is, 
deservedly, one of the most esteemed of the 
summer resorts of the Connecticut, so pure and 
health-restoring are its airs, and so pleasant all 
its belongings, within and without. There are 
here several large and admirable water-cure 
establishments. The village cemetery on a 
lofty terrace overlooking the river, above and 
below, is a beautiful rural spot. West River, 
above the town, is an exceedingly picturesque 
stream. The buildings and grounds, in this 
vicinity, of the Asylum for the insane, have a 
fine manorial appearance. 

Our next stage is 24 miles, from Brattle- 
borough to Bellows' Falls, over the Vermont 
valley road. 

Bellows' Palls. — Hotels : — The Island 
House. — A sumptuous establishment. 

Bellows' Falls is a famous congregating and 
stopping place of railways. With the exception 
of some bold passages of natural scenery, and a 
most sumptuous summer hotel, called the 
Island House, there is not much here, com- 
paratively, to allure the traveller. Railways 
come in from Boston on the east, from the 
valley of the Connecticut on the south, from 
Vermont and Canada on the north, and from 
Albany and Troy, via Rutland, on the west. 



58 



NE-W HAMPSHIEE. 



14 



The Falls are a series of rapids in the Con- 
necticut, extending about a mile along the base of 
ahigh and precipitous hill, known as " Fall Moun- 
tain," which skirts the river on the New Hamp- 
shire side. At the bridge which crosses the 
river at this place, the visitor can stand directly 
over the boiling flood ; viewed from whence, 
the whole scene is efluctlve in the extreme. The 
Connecticut is here compressed into so narrow 
a compass that it seems as if one could almost 
leap across it. The water, which is one dense 
mass of foam, rushes through the chasm with 
Buch velocity, that in striking on the rocks be- 
low, it is forced back upon itself for a consider- 
able distance. In no place is the fall perpen- 
dicular to any considerable extent, but in the 
distance of half a mile the waters descend about 
50 feet. A canal three-fourths of a mile long, 
with locks, was constructed round the Falls, 
many years since, at an expense of §50,000. 

Keene is one of the prettiest towns of New 
Hampshire in this vicinity. It is situated on a 
flat, east of the Ashuelot river, and is upon the 
route of the Cheshire railway, by which it is 
connected with Boston, and with the Connecti- 
cut river roads. It is particularly entitled to 
notice for the extent, width, and uniform level of 
its streets. The main street, extending one 
mile in a straight line, is almost a perfect level, 
and is well ornamented with trees. It is a place 
of considerable business, there being several 
manufacturing establishments here. 

From Bellows' Falls we pass on to "Windsor, 
26 miles, by the SuUivan railway. 

South Charleston and Charleston are 
quiet little aside villages on the east bank of the 
Connecticut, in Sullivan County, New Hamp- 
shire, 50 miles west of Concord. A bridge 
crosses tlie river to Springfield, Vermont. 
Charleston was the extreme northern outpost 
in the early days of the New England colonies. 
There was then a rude military work here call- 
ed Fort No. 4. 

Claremont is also on the east bank of the 
Connecticut, and in SuUivan County, N. H. 
It is a pleasant little manufacturing village. 
The scenery in this neighborhood is extremely 
fine. The banks of the Sugar River are very 
picturesque, and the changing aspects of Mount 
AscuTNET, which we now approach, are of the 
highest interest. It is upon this side this noble 
hill, standing solitary and alone, a brave outpost 
of the coming Green Mountains on the one hand, 
and of the White Mountains on the other, is 
seen in its greatest grandeur. Its rugged pre- 
cipitous summits and its dark ravines have here 



a very vigorous and massive character. Ascut 
ney is sometimes called the Three Brothers 
from its trio of lofty peaks, all visible from thi 
southern approach. From the eastward anc 
northward, at "Windsor and from the west, itj 
appearance is totally difl'erent, but alwaj's fine 
It may be very comfortably ascended fron? 
Windsor, in a good day's tramp ; and the view' 
from the summit is scarcely inferior in extent, 
variet}', and magnificence, to that from any 
other x^eak of the Vermont chain. Its height is 
1,732 feet above the river. 

Windsor is one of the pleasantest rural re^ 
treats of all this charming region, with its vici 
nage to Mount Asoutney, and other attractive 
scenes of land and water. It is the centre of a 
fine agricultural and wool-growing neighbor- 
hood. There is an excellent, quiet, summer 
hotel here. Windsor is the seat of the Vermont 
State Prison, and the terminus of the Vermont' 
Central Railway, from Burlington through the' 
valley of the Winooski river. 

At Windsor, the Sullivan road ends, and we 
continue our journey along the Connecticut, 14 
miles, to White River Junction, by the Vermontj 
central route. 

White River Junction. From this point th 
Vermont central road continues, via Northfielc 
and Montpelier, to Burlington ; and wo leave i' 
for the Connecticut and Passumpsic, upon whiol 
we continue, 40 miles, to Wells River. 

Hanover, is in this neighborhood, half-a 
mile east of the Connecticut, and 55 miles north 
west of Concord. It occupies a broad terrace j 
ISO feet above the water. Here is the venerabl 
Dartmouth College, founded in 1769, and name ''^ 
in honor oT William, Earl of Dartmouth. Danit 
Webster was one of the alumni of this esteeme 
institution. 

The College buildings are grouped around a 
square of 12 acres, in the centre of the plain 
upon which the village stands. 

Wells Hiver.— Hotels :— Coosac House. 

At this point, the railway to Littleton, 20 miles, 
and thence by stage to the White Mountains, di- 
verges. Here, too, comesin the Boston, Concord, 
and Montreal route, sending its passengers, via 
Littleton, to the White Hills or onward, by the 
Connecticut and Passumpsic road, via St. Johns- 
bury, to Canada. The Connecticut now assumes 
the appearance of a mountain stream, the railways 
follow its banks no farther, and we leave our tra- 
veller to proceed on either hand, as we have indi- 
cated, to New Hampshire, or to Canada, 



CONNECTICUT. — MASSACHUSETTS. 



59 



CONNECTICUT. 

The scenery of Connecticut is delightfully varied by the passage of the Connecticut, the 
Housatonio, aud other picturesque rivers ; and of several low hill ranges. Spurs of the Green 
Mountains rise, here and there, in isolated groups or points through the western portions of the 
State. The Talcot, or Greenwood's Range, extends from the northern boundary almost to New 
Haven. Between this chain and that in the extreme west, lies another ridge, with yet two others 
on the eastward, the Middletown Mountains, and the line across the Connecticut, which is a con- 
tinuation, most probably, of the White Hills of New Hampshire. Lying between these mountain 
ranges, are valleys of great luxuriance and beauty. The lakes among the mountains of the north- 
western corner of the State are extremely attractive. 

Excepting a trading house built by the Dutch at Hartford, in 1631, the first colony planted in 
Connecticut was the settlement of some of the Massachusetts emigrants at Windsor. Soon after- 
wards Hartford fell into the possession of the English colonists. Wethersfleld was nest occupied, 
in 1C36, and New Haven, in 1638. The State had its share of Indian tj'oubles in its earlier history, 
and of endurance, later, in the days of the Revolution. 



THE HOUSATONIO VALLEY, RIVER, 
AND RAILROAD. 

The valley of the Housatonic, traversed by the 
Housatonic river and railroad, extends for about 
100 miles northward from Long Island Sound, 
through the extreme west of Connecticut and 
Massachusetts, including the famous county 
of Berkshire in the latter State. The whole re- 
gion is replete with picturesque and social at- 
tractions, and has long been resorted to for sum- 
mer travel and residence. It is a county of bold 
hills, pleasant valleys, and beautiful streams- 
more particularly that portion lying in Berk- 
shire. Saddle Mountain, in the north part of 
this county, is the highest land in Massachu- 
Bctts. The natui'al beauties of Monument Moun- 
tain, also in Berkshire, have been heightened by 
traditionary story, and by the verse of Bryant. 
Stockbridge and Great ]3arrington— very popu- 
lar summer homes — are here. Lenox, honored 
by the residence of the authoress. Miss C. M. 
Sedgwick ; and Pittsfleld, the home of Melville 
and Holmes. North and South Adams, too, 
and Williamstown, the seat of Williams College 
— but we Avill follow the line of the valley, and 
glance, briefly, at its points of interest in due 
order. 

From New York, take the New Haven Rail- 
road, 58 miles, to Bridgeport, on the Sound, 
thence up the valley, on the Housatonio road ; or 
take the Hudson river, or the River Railroad 
route, 116 miles, to the city of Hudson, and 
thence by Hudson and Boston Railroad, 34 
miles, to West Stockbridge ; or the Harlem 
Railroad, to its intersection with the Hudson and 
Boston, at Chatham Four Corners. 

From Albany, by the Albany and Boston road, 
38 miles, to State Line (Housatonic road) ; or on- 



ward to Pittsfleld. From Boston by western 
CAlbany) road, 151 miles, to Pittsfleld. 

Palls Village, 67 m. above Bridgeport. The 
Falls here, which are the largest in Connecticut, 
are very bold and picturesque. The waters 
traverse a ledge of limestone, and make a de- 
scent of 60 feet. 

The Salisbury Lakes. The country west 
of Canaan, as all this part of the State, is beau- 
tifully embelUshed with Hill and lake scenery. 
The Twin Lakes, in Salisbury, are very charm- 
ing waters. 

Sheffield is a prosperous village, famous for 
its manufactures, and for its varied attractions 
in liiUs and cascades, and other forms of natural 
beauty. 



Great Earrington.— Hotels : 

shire Mouse. 



-The Berk- 



Great Barrington, with excellent hotels for 
sumi^er travel, is a place of favorite resort. 
Mount Peter, on the southern edge, overlooks 
the village pleasantly ; and it is most agreeably 
seen approaching, on the river road from the 
north. 

The Taugkanic Mountains, a range ex- 
tending from the Green Hills of Vermont, lie 
between the Housatonic Valley and the Hudson 
River. Mount Washington, Mount Riga, and 
other peaks, are interesting places of pilgrimage 
and exploration. The Falls of Bashpish are in 
this hill range. Following the Housatonic, and 
passing Monument Mountain, we reach 

Old Stockbridge.— Hotels •.—Stockbridge 
Hoxise. 

Old Stockbridge is one of the quietest and most 
■winsome retreats in the world, lying in the lap 



60 



MASSACHUSETTS. — OONNEOTIOUIV 



of a fertile, hill-sheltered valley. The houses, 
■which are all far apart, and buried in dense 
verdure, stand back in gardens, upon either side 
of a broad street or road, thicklj' lined vrith noble 
BpecLmens of the ever-attractive New Eugland 
elm. There is a pleasant, well-ordered hotel 
here. Miss Sedgwick has, iu her stories, woven 
much romantic interest about many spots iu this 
vicinity, and about her own home of Lenox near 

Lebanon Spring-s (N". T.), and the Shaker 
village are hereabouts. (See New York.) 

Pittsflield. — Hotels : — Berkshire House. 

Pittsfield, Berkshire county, Mass., is a large 
manufacturing and agricultural town, elevated 
3,100 feet above the level of the eea. It is 151 
miles west from Boston, and 49 east from Al- 
banj'. The village is beautifully situated, and 
contains many elegant public edifices and pri- 
vate dwelhngs. In this village there is still 
standing one of the original forest trees — a large 
elm, 120 feet high, and 90 feet to the lowest limb 
— an interesting relic of the primitive woods, and 
justly esteemed a curiosity by persons visiting 
this place. The town received its present name 
in 1761, in honor of "William Pitt, (Earl of 
Chatham). 

Upon a fine spacious square in the heart of the 
town, are the princif)al hotels, the Berkshire 
Medical School, a popular institution founded in 
1S2.3, and the First Congreg.itional Church, a 
Gothic structure of stone, erected in 1853. There 
is, too, a prosperous Young Ladies' Institute 
here, which occupies several admirable buildings, 
surrounded by well-embellished grounds. Pitts- 
field is a large depot of manufactures, being ex- 
tensively engaged in the production of cotton 
and woollen goods, machinery, fire-arms and 
railroad cars. The population of the township 
is nearly 9,000. It is upon the "Western Railway, 
from Boston to Albany, at the northern terminus 
of the Housatonic valley route, and at the south- 
ern terminus of the Pittsfield and North Adams 
Railway. 

The scenerj' of this region, traversed by the 
jestern road through Berkshire, from Boston to 
Albanj', is often of very impressive aspect. 

After leaving the -vndc meadows of the Con- 
necticut, basking in their rich inheritance of 



alluvial soil, and unimpeded eunshinc, you wind 
through the narrow valleys of the Westfield 
river, with masses of mountains before you, and 
woodland heights crowding in upon you, so that, 
at every puft' of the engine, the passage visibly 
contracts. The Alpine character of the river 
strikes you. The huge stones in its wide chan- 
nel, which have been torn up and rolled down by 
the sweeping torrents of spring and autumn, lie 
bared and whitening in the summer sun. "You 
cross and recross it, as in its deviations it leaves 
space, on one side or the other, for a practicable 
road. 

At " Chester Factories" you begin your ascent 
of 80 feet in a mile for 13 miles. The stream 
between you and the precipitous hill-side, cramp- 
ed into its rocky bed, is the Pontoosne, one of 
the tributaries of the "Westfield river. As you 
trace this stream to its mountain home, it dashes 
along beside you with the recklessness of child- 
hood. It leaps down precipices, runs forth 
laughing in the dimpling sunshine, and then, shy 
as the mountain nymph, it dodges behind a 
knotty copse of evergreens. In approaching the 
" summit level," you travel bridges built 100 feet 
above other mountain streams, tearing along 
their deep- worn beds; and at the " deep cut" 
your passage is hewn through solid rooks, whose 
mighty walls frown over you. 

The Pitlsjield and North Adams Railroad 
Route. This road extends 20 miles, via Pack- 
ard's, Berkshire, Cheshire, Cheshire Harbor, 
Maple Grove, and South Adams to North 
Adams. 

Adams. The villages of North and South 
Adams are in the immediate neighborhood of 
Saddle Mountain. This noble peak has an ele- 
vation of 3,500 feet, and is the highest land in 
Massachusetts. There is a notable natural bridge 
upon Hudson's brook near North Adams, 

"Williamstown, near North Adams, is tho 
seat of "SVilliams College, founded in 1793. This 
institution is well endowed, and holds high rank 
among the best educational establishments of 
the country. The village is in one of the most 
picturesque portions of picturesque Berkshire. 

New Haven, Hartford, &c. For men- 
tion of these and other cities and scenes of Con- 
necticut, see Index and Routes to Boston from 
New York, under the head of Massachusetts. 



EHODE ISLAND. 



61 



EHODE ISLAND. 

Rhode Island is the smallest of the many States of the great American confederacy, her 
entire area not exceeding 1306 miles, -with an extreme length and breadUa, respectively, of 47 and 
37 miles. 

The country is most pleasantly varied with hill and dale, though there are no mountains of any 
great pretensions. Ample compensation for this lack in the natural scenery, is made hy the num- 
herless small lakes which abound everywhere, and especially by the beautiful waters and island^ 
and shores of the Narragansett Baj', which occupy a great portion of the little area of the State. 
Its capitals, Providence and Newport, are among the most ancient and most interesting places in 
the land, and the latter has of late years become the most fashionable of all the numerous Ameri- 
can watering-places. 

Khodo Island was first settled at Providence, in 1636, by Roger "Williams. To the enlightened 
and liberal mind of Williams in Rhode Island, and to the like true wisdom of Penn in Pennsylva- 
nia, and of Lord Baltimore in Maryland, America owes its present happy condition of entire free- 
dom of conscience ; perfect religious toleration having been made a cardinal point in the policy 
of these colonies. 

The people of Rhode Island were early and active participants in the war of the Revolution, 
and many spots within her borders tell thrilling tales of the stirring incidents of those memorable 
days. 



PROVIDENCE AND VICINITY. 

Hotels. The Aldrich House (new), near the 
R. R. depot, and the City Hotel (old). Broad 
street. 

Providence, one of the most beautiful cities of 
Now England, and surpassed only by Boston in 
wealth and population, is a semi-capital of Rhode 
Island, on the northern arm of the Narragansett 
Bay, called Providence River. It is an ancient 
town, dating back as far as 1635— when its 
founder, Roger "Williams, driven from the do- 
mains of Massachusetts, sought here that reli- 
gious liberty which was denied to him elsewhere. 
It bears its venerable age, however, bravely, and 
looks to-day as youthful and vigorous as the 
Aladdin cities of yesterday — yet with the ac- 
cumulated refinements and amenities, in its 
social character, of very many cultivated genera- 
tions. This city makes a charming picture seen 
from the approach by the beautiful waters of the 
Narragansett, which it encircles on the north by 
its business quarter, rising beyond and rather 
abruptly to a lofty terrace, where the quiet and 
gratefully shaded streets are filled with dainty 
cottages and grand manorial homes. Providence 
was once a very important commercial depot, its 
rich ships crossing all seas — and at the present 
day the city is equally distinguished for its 
manufacturing wealth and enterprise. In this 
department of human achievement it took the 
lead, which it still keeps,— the first cotton mill 



which was built in America, being still in use, in 
its suburban village of Pawtuoket, and some of 
the heaviest mills and print-works of the Union 
being now in operation within its borders. The 
value of the annual product of the cotton mills 
and print-works of Providence, is estimated at 
nearly four millions of dollars ; thatof the manu- 
facturers of jewelry of various kinds — its estab- 
lishments in this labor being no less than from 
sixty to seventy in number — at two and a half 
millions. It has also extensive manufactories of 
steam machinery, and of tools and implements 
of all sorts, and it furnishes the major part of all 
the screws used in the "United States. The work- 
shops of the Eagle Screw Company, where these 
little implements are made, are among the best- 
appointed in the world. The total capital in- 
vested here, in manufactures, is six millions of 
dollars. 

Providence is the seat of Brotvn University, 
one of the best educational establishments in 
America, founded In "Warren, R. I., 1764, and 
removed to Providence in 1770. Its library is 
very large, valuable, and is remarkably rich iu 
rare and costly works. 

The AthenjEum has a fine reading-room, and 
a collection of 12,000 books. The Bptler Hos- 
pital for the Insane, upon the banks of the See- 
konk River, is an admirable institution, occupy- 
ing large and imposing edifices. In the same part 
of the city, and lying also upon the Seekonk River, 
is the Swan Point Cemetery, a spot of great rural 



62 



EHODE ISLAKD. 



beauty. There are about fifty public schools in 
Providence, in which instruction is given to be- 
tween six and seven thousand pupils, at an annual 
expense of over $45,000, one-fourth only of which 
is contributed by the State. The Dexter Asylum 
for the Poor is upon an elevated range of land 
east of the river. In the same vicinage is the 
yearly meeting boarding-school, belonging to the 
Society of Friends. The Reform School occu- 
pies the large mansion in the south-east part of 
the city, formerly known as the Tookwotton 
House. The Exchange, the Railroad Depot, 
some of the banks, and many of the churches 
of Providence, are imposing structures. 

The topography and the natural scenery of 
Providence and its vicinity are great temptations 
to tourists, and to those seeking pleasant sum- 
mer abodes. Situated upon the shore of the 
Narragansett Bay, and connected with it at all 
points by railway and steamboat, it unites all the 
pleasures of city and country life. 

Upon the immediate edge of the city, on the 
shore of a charming bay in the Seekonk River, 
is the famous "What Cheek Eock, where the 
founder of the citj', Roger Williams, landed from 
the Massachusetts side, to make the first settle- 
ment here. From this rock he was greeted by 
the Indians, with the salutation which gives 
name to the spot. 

At Hunt's Mill, three or four miles distant, 
is a beautiful brook with a delicious little cas- 
cade, a drive to which is among the morning or 
evening pleasures of the Providence peoisle and 
their guests. 

VuE DB l'Eau is the name of a picturesque 
and spacious summer hotel, perched (four or five 
miles below the city) upon a high terrace over- 
looking the Bay and its beauties for many miles 
around. 

Gaspee Point, below, upon the opposite 
shore of the iS'arragansett, tells a stirring story 
of the initial days of the Revolution, when some 
citizens of Providence, after adroitly beguiling 
an obnoxious British revenue craft upon the 
treacherous bar, stole down by boats in tlie 
night and settled her business by burning her to 
the water's edge. 

Hocky Point is a wonderful summer re- 
treat, among shady groves and rocky glens, upon 
the west shore of the Bay. In summer-time 
half a dozen boats ply, each twice a day, on ex- 
cursion trips from Providence to various rural 
points down the Bay, charging 25 cents only for 
the round voyage. 

Rocky Point is the most favored of all these 
rural recesses. Hundreds come here daily, and 
feast upon delicious clams, just drawn from the 
water, and roasted on the shore in heated sea- 



weed, upon true and orthodox "clam-bake" 
principles. Let no visitor to Providence fail to.- 
eat clams and chowder at Rocky Point, even 
if he should never eat again. 

The charming towns of "Warren and Bristol 
are across the Baj', each worthy of a long visit. 
They may both be reached several times a day 
from Providence, by the Providence,'Warren and 
Bristol Railroad. 

Mount Hope, the famous home of the re- 
nowned King Philip, the last of the Wampa- 
noags, is just below Bristol, upon Mount Hope 
Bay, an arm of the Narragansett on the east. 
The bare crown of this picturesque height pre- 
sents a glorious panorama of the beautiful 
Rhode Island waters. Upon the shore of Mount 
Hope Bay, opposite, is the busy village of Fall 
River, which we have already visited, on our 
route to Boston from New York. Off on our 
right, as we still descend towards the sea, is 
Greenwich, and near by it, the birth-place and 
home of General Nathaniel Greene — the revolu- 
tionary hero — and just below is the township and 
(lying inland) the village of Kingston. In this 
neighborhood there once stood the old snuff-mill 
in which Gilbert Stuart, the famous American 
painter, was born. 

PrescotPs Head-quarters is a spot of Revolu- 
tionary interest, on the western shore of the large 
island filling the lower jjart of the bay, the island 
after which the State is named. 

At the southern extremity of the island is the 
venerable town of Newport, at this day the most 
fashionable of ail summer watering-places. Leav- 
ing Newport for a chapter by itself, let us, now 
that we have run rapidly down the 35 miles of 
the Narragansett waters, return for another mo- 
ment to Providence. 

We may get here any day from New York, by 
the Fall River route for Boston, round Point 
Judith from the sea, up the Narragansett (call- 
ing at Newport) to Fall River, in Mount Hops 
Bay, and thence by a Providence steamer. Or 
we may come by the Stonington route from New 
York, to Groton, Ct., by steamer, thence by rail ; 
or more speedilj', morning or afternoon, by the 
charming route along the marge of Long Island 
Sound — the new " Shore Line," via New Haven, 
New London, etc. ; or we may come from Bos- 
ton, any hour, almost, by the Boston and Provi- 
dence road. 

Distance from New York to Providence, abo^^t 
175 miles — usual fare, §3 to $4. Distance from 
Boston, 43 miles — fare, $1 50. Population of 
Providence, about 51,000. 

Newport. — Hotels: — 77te Ocean House, 
Touro street, the most fashionable and most 



EHODE ISLAND. — NEW HAMPSHIEE. 



63 



delightfully situated ; the Atlantic, at the head 
of Pelham street, the Bellevue, the Fillmore, and 
the Aquidneck. 

Route. From New York (pier No. 3, North 
River), at 5 p. m., daily, in the superb steamers 
of the Fall River line. Also, by the steamers of 
the Stonington and Providence line, from Pier 18, 
every evening, to Groton, Ct. Remain on board 
till morning, breakfast, and take the cars for 
Greenwich at 7.45 A. m., connecting with boat on 
Narragansett Bay. Reach Newport by this route 
at 11. A. M. From Boston, by railway to Fall 
River, thence by steamer ; or by rail to Provi- 
dence, and thence by boat down Narragansett 
Bay. 

If Newport were not, as it is, the most elegant 
and fashionable of all American watering-places, 
its topographical beauties, its ancient commer- 
cial importance, and its many interesting his- 
torical associations, would yet claim for it dis- 
tinguished mention in these pages. Coming in 
from the sea round Point Judith, a few miles 
bring the traveller into the waters of the Narra- 
gansett Bay, where he passes between fort "Wol- 
cott, on Goat Island, and the stronghold of Fort 
Adams, upon Brenton Point on the right, and 
enters the harbor of the ancient town, once 
amoDg the commercial capitals of the Union. 

In the Revolution, the British long held pos- 
session of Newport, during which time, and at 
their departure, it became almost desolate. Be- 
fore leaving, they destroyed 480 buildings, burned 
the lighthouse, cut down all the ornamental and 
fruit trees, broke up the wharves, used the 
churches for riding-schools, and the State House 
for a hosj)ital, and carried off the church bells 
and the town records of New York ; disasters 
which reduced the population from 12,000 to 
4,000. But the incidents of this period have left 
some pleasant memories for the present day, 
and remembrances of the fame of Commodore 
Perry, the gallant commander on Lake Erie, who 
was born in Narragansett, R. I., across the bay, 
and whose remains lio now in Newport ; of the 



residence of Rochambeau, and other brave offi- 
cers of the French fleet ; and of the visits of 
General Washington, and the fetes given in his 
honor ; the venerable buildings associated with 
all these incidents being'etill to be seen. 

The old town lies near the water, but of late 
years, since the place has grown so great as a 
summer residence, a new city of charming villas 
and sumptuous mansions has sprung up, ex- 
tending far along upon the terraces which over; 
look the sea. Of the old buildings, and of those 
which belong to Newport per se, instead of in its 
character of a watering-place, are, the ancient 
State House (for Newport is a semi-capital of 
Rhode Island), the Redwood Library and 
Athenseum, the Old Btone Mill, an interesting 
relic of a period past remembrance, and almost 
of tradition ; Tammany Hall Institute, Trinity 
Church, the Yernon family mansion, the Perry 
monument. Com. Perry's house, the City Hall, 
the fortifications in the harbor, Fort Adams, 
Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dumplings. 

The chief picturesque attractions of the town 
and its immediate vicinity, are the fine ocean- 
shores, known as the First, the Second, and the 
Third Beach. It is the First Beach which is 
chieily used as a bathing-ground by the Newport 
guests. At the Second Beach are the famous 
rocks called Purgatory, and the Hanging Rocks, 
within whose shadow it is said that Bishop Berke- 
ley wrote his' " Minute Philosopher." 

The Glen, and the Spouting Cave are charming 
places to ride to, when the weather invites. 

Newport was the birthplace of the gifted min- 
iature painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place 
of nativity may be seen in Narragansett, across 
the bay. Stuart made two copies of his great 
"Washington picture for Rhode Island, one of 
which may be seen in the State House at New- 
port, and the other in that at Providence. 

A steamboat passes every day up and down 
the bay between Newport and the city of Provi- 
dence, enabling the traveller to see at his leisure 
the many attractions of the neighborhood. 



NEW HAMPSHIEE. 

Nbw Hampshiee contains some of the grandest hill and valley and lake scenery in America. 
The White Mountains here are popularly supposed to be the highest land east of the Mississippi 
River, as, indeed, they are, with the single exception of Black Mountain in North Carolina. These 
noble hills occupy, with their many outposts, a very considerable portion of the State, and form 
the speciality in its physical character. The reader will find a detailed mention of all these features, 
and of the beautiful intermediate lake-region, in subsequent pages. 

On his route from Boston to the mountain regions, the tourist will find much to interest him, 
if his interest lies that way, in the enterprising manufacturing towns of the lower part of the 



64 



iraw HAMPSHIEE. 



State. In its historical records, jSTcw Harapshire has no very Btriking passages— no important 
reminiscences, either of the Revolutionary War or of the later conflict with Great Britain in 
1812. 

The railway lines of New Hampshire are numerous enough to give ready access to all sections 
of her territory, and to the neighboring States. Occasion will occur for ample mention of the 
facilities which they afford for travel, as we follow them, severally, hither and thither. 



ROUTES TO THE "WHITE MOUNTAINS, 
N. H. 

FROM NEW TOEK, BOSTON, PORTLAND, ETC. 

Via Bostun. 

Route 1. Erom Boston, by Lake Winnipis- 
eogee and Conway Valley. (See routes from 
New Tork to Boston.) From Haymarket Square, 
Boston, at 7 30 a. m. and 12 m., 26 miles to Law- 
renc;e by Boston and Maine road ; 27 miles to 
Manchester, upon Manchester and Lawrence R. 
R. ; 18 miles to Concord, upon Concord R. R. , 
33 miles to Weirs, on Lake Winnipiseogee, 
by Boston and Concord and Montreal R. R. ; 
10 miles by steamer Lady of the Lake, on Lake 
Winnipiseogee to Centre Harbor (dine at Centre 
Harbor) ; 30 miles by stage to Conway ; arrive 
at Conway in the evening, remain there all night, 
and proceed, 24 miles, to (Crawford House, White 
Mountain Notch, next day. Total distance from 
Boston to the Crawford House, 168 miles ; time, 
2 days and 1 night ; fare, $7 45. Distance from 
New York, 431 miles ; time, 2 days and 2 nights ; 
fare, about §12 45. Passengei-s by the Boston 
morning train only reach Conway the same even- 
ing. Those taking No. 2, or noon train, will 
pass the night at Centre Harbor, on Lake Win- 
nipiseogee, and the next night at Conway, reach- 
ing the mountains on the third day. 

Route 2. From Boston. (See routes from New 
Tork to Boston.) Leave Haymarket Square (as 
in route 1) at 7 30 a. m. and 12 m. ; 68 miles to 
Dover, N. H., upon Boston and Maine R. R. ; 
thence to Alton Bay, 28 miles, upon Cooheco R. 
Ji. ; thence, 30 miles, by steamer Dover (dine on 
board) to Wolf boro' and Centre Harbor, on Lake 
Winnipiseogee ; thence by stage, via Conway, to 
the mountains, as in Route No. 1. 

Passengers by morning train only, from Bos- 
ton, reach Conway same night. Those by sec- 
ond, or noon train, wiU pass the night at Wolf- 
boro' or Centre Harbor. From Boston to Craw- 
ford House, by this route, 96 miles by railroad, 30 
by steamboat, and 54 by stage ; total, 180. Time, 
2 days and 1 night, from Boston ; fare, S7 45. 

Route 3. From Boston. At 7 30 a. ii. and 12 
M. (station. Causeway street), 26 miles to Lowell, 
by Boston and Lowell R. R. ; 15 miles to Nashua, 
upon Nashua and Lowell R. R. ; 35 miles to 
Concord, upon Concord R. E. ; afterwards as 



in Route No. 1. Distance, time, and fare the 

same. 

Route 4. From Boston, same as in Routes Nos. 
1 and 3, as far as Weirs on Lake Winnipiseogee ; 
thence, continuing upon the railroad, 18 miles 
from Weirs, to Plymouth, N. H. ; dine at Ply- 
mouth, and proceed by stage, 24 miles, through 
West Campion, etc., to the Flume House, Fran- 
conia Notch, the western end of the mountains. 
Passengers by the morning train from Boston 
will reach the Flume House, Franconia Notch, 
same e%-ening. Those taking the second train 
will stay over until next day at Plymouth. Dis- 
tance from Boston to Flume House, 148 miles, 
being 124 by railway and 24 by stage. Time, 
from Boston by morning line, 10 hours ; fare, 
$5 15. Stages daily from Flume House, 5 miles, 
to the Profile House, 22 miles to White Moun- 
tain House ; thence, 5 miles, to Crawford House, 
terminus of Routes 1, 2, and 3, on the east side. 
Distance from Flume House to Crawford House, 
32 miles. Fare, $3. 

Route 5. From Boston, same as in Roiffes 1 
and 3, to Weirs ; thence (as in Route 4) to Ply- 
mouth (dine), continuing upon the railroad, 42 
miles, from Plymouth to Wells River ; thence 
upon White Mountain R. R., 20 miles, to Little- 
ton ; thence by stage, 11 miles, to ProSle House, 
and 5 miles further to Flume House, or 23 miles 
to Crawford House. Passengers by the early 
train only reach the mountains the same night. 
Those taking second train stay till next day at 
Plymouth. From Boston to Profile House, 193 
miles ; to Flume House, 198 miles ; to Crawford 
House, 205 miles. 182 miles by railroad, rest by 
stage. Fare from Boston to Profile House, 
$6 15 ; to Crawford, $6 90. Time, 12 hours. 

From New York or Boston, via Portland, Maine. 

Route 6. (See routes from New York to Bos- 
ton.) Leave Boston for Portland, 111 miles by 
railway, morning and evening, from Haymarket 
street, -^ia Reading, Lawrence, Haverhill, Exe- 
ter, etc. Through baggage for the White Moun- 
tains to be marked, " Portland East." Passen- 
gers by first train wUI dine in Portland, and take 
Grand Trunk Railway through Cumberland, 
Yarmouth, etc., 91 miles, to Gorham, N. H. 
Second train passengers will pass the night at 
Portland, and proceed to Gorham next day. 



NEW HAMPSHIEE, 



65 



From Gorham, 8 miles, by stage to Glen House, 
foot of Mount WaBliington. Stages leave Glen 
House every morning for Crawford House, 34 
iniles distant, via Pinliliam Notol:, also via Cher- 
ry Mountain, From Boston to Gorliam, 202 
miles ; from Boston, via Portland, Gorham, Glen 
House, and Pinkham Notch, to Crawford House, 
244 miles. 

Route 7. From Boston, via Portland. Leave 
Causeway street, morning and evening, by rail- 
way, through Lynn, Salem, Beverly, Newbury- 
port, Portsmouth, etc., to Portland, and thence 
as in Route No. 6. 

Route 8. From Boston by steamer to Port- 
land, every night, from end of Central Wharf; 
thence, as in Route No. 6. Fare by this line, $3, 
from Boston to Gorham. 

Route 9. From Boston to Portland, by rail- 
way or steamer, as in Routes 6, 7, and 8, and 
thence by Sabago Lake and Pleasant Mountain 
to Conway ; thence to Crawford House, etc., as 
in Route 1. 

From New York, kot via Boston. 

Route 10. From New York by railway, via 
New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield ; thence 
by railway xip the Valley of the Connecticut to 
Wells River, and from thence to Littleton, N. 
H. •, from Littleton by stage, as in route 5. 

EouTB 11. By steamboat from Pier 18, North 
Elver, N. T., every evening to New London ; 
thence by railway to "Worcester, Nashua, and 
Concord ; and from Concord on the east side 
by Conway to Crawford House, route 1 ; or on 
the west side by Campton to tha Franconia 
Notch, route 5. A very charming route, full of 
ever-changing and always increasingly attractive 
points. 

Route 12. From New York by Hudson River, 
or Hudson River Railway, to Albany and Troy ; 
thence to Whitehall, and down Lake Champlain 
to Burlington, Vermont ; thence by Vermont 
Central Raih'oad through the Winooski Valley 
and Green Mountains (via Montpelier), to con- 
nections with the Connecticut Valley roads to 
Littleton, N. H. 

Route 13. From New York by Hudson River 
to Albany ; thence to Whitehall, foot of Lake 
Champlain, or other routes to Rutland, Ver- 
mont ; thence to Bellows' Falls, on the line of 
the Connecticut Valley road, to Littleton, N. H. 

We might much extend our list, but as all 
roads lead to Rome, so the ways to the favorite 
summer haunts in the White Mountains are in- 
finite. 

DESCRIPTION OP ROUTES TO WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Route 1. By Lake Winnipiseogee and Con- 
way Valley. From Boston, 26 miles, to Law- 



rence, via Boston and Maine Railroad (Boston 
and Portland), passing numerous suburban vil- 
lages, for which see " Boston and Vicinity." 
Lawrence is a large manufacturing city (popula- 
tion ISjOOO), upon the Merrimac River. It is 
connected with Lowell (13 miles distant), with 
Salem, 21 miles, and with all surrounding points 
by railway. It has grown up suddenly within a 
few years, having been incorporated only in 
1845. 

From Lawrence by Manchester and Lawrence 
Railroad,26 miles to Manchester, N. H., still fol- 
lowing the Merrimac River; upon which Man- 
chester, like Lawrence, is situated. At this 
point we are 53 miles above Boston, and 18 miles 
below Concord. This place has, like Lawrence 
and others, suddenly grown under the develojp- 
ment of manufacturing enterprise — from an in- 
considerable village, into a large and populous 
city. Its charter was granted in 1846, and in 
1860 it had 20,000 inhabitants. 

Concord. — Hotels : — Eagle House. 

Concord, the capital of the State, is upon 
the banks of the Merrimac, 18 miles above Man- 
chester, by the Concord Railroad. The Stato 
Capitol, the Lunatic Asylum, the State Prison, 
are public ediflces of interest. A Methodist 
General Biblical Institute was founded here in 
1847. We might suggest to the tourist a brief 
halt at Concord, were he not now so near yet 
more attractive scenes. Concord is 71 miles from 
Boston, via Lawrence ; 47 miles from Ports- 
mouth, by Concord and Portsmouth Railroad ; 
25 miles from Bradford, by the Concord and 
Claremont Railroad ; 35 miles from Nashua, by 
Concord Railroad ; 93 miles from Wells River, 
by Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. Con- 
cord is an eligible place for summer abode. It 
is the home of ex-President Pierce. 

From Concord, our route follows the Boston, 
Concord, and Montreal Railroad, 33 miles to 
Wiers, on Lake Winnipiseogee, where we take 
the steamer Lady of the Lake, 10 miles to Centre 
Harbor. Our White Mountain route. No. 5, 
continues on this road past Weirs, to Wells 
River, and Littleton, N. H. 

Lake 'Wiiinipiseog-ee. The little voyage 
on this beautiful lake, is among the most agreea- 
ble passages in our present journey to the White 
Mountains, and well deserves a pilgrimage to it- 
self alone. Winnipiseogee is an enchanting reach 
of pure, translucent waters, very irregular in 
form ; some 23 miles long, and from one to ten 
miles wide. It is crowded with exquisite island 
groups, indented with surprising bays ; and bold 
mountain peaks cast their shadows everywhere 
into its still, deep floods. * 



66 



NEW HAMPSHIEE. 



Red Mountain, about 1,600 feet high, a remark- 
ably beautiful emineuce, is situated on the N. "W. 
of the above lake. The ascent to the summit, al- 
though steep and arduous, can be effected for a 
portion of the distance in carriages, and all the 
way on horseback. From the S.E. there is a fine 
panoramic view of the lake and the adjacent 
country. On the south ascends Mount Major, a 
ridge of a bolder aspect and loftier height. On 
the N.E. the great Ossipee raises its chain of 
elevations, with a bold sublimity, and looking 
down in conscious pride upon the regions be- 
low. 

Squam Lake lying "vV". from Red Mountain ; 
and two miles N.W. from Winnipiseogee Lake, 
is another splendid sheet of water. It is about 
six miles in length, and in its widest part not 
less than three miles in breadth, and, like its 
neighbor (Winnipiseogee), is studded with a suc- 
cession of romantic islands. This lake abounds 
in trout of the iinest kind. 

Centre Harbor.— Hotels i—Senter House. 

Centre Harbor, with its excellent summer ho- 
tel upon the margin of Winnipiseogee, is the 
halting-place for the explorer of the many beau- 
ties of this region. White Mountain tourists 
dine here in transitu, and proceed for the rest 
of the way by stage-coach, first for thirty miles 
through a country of picturesque delights to 
Conway Valley, where they might well linger 
till their summer days all went by. 

Con.'way "Valley is a wide stretch of deli- 
cious interval lands upon the Saco River, hem- 
ined in upon all sides by bold, mountain sum- 
mits, chief among which are the stern cliffs of 
Mount Washington itself It is a dehghtful 
place for artistic study, and for summer resi- 
dences ; and within a few years past, it has been 
a favorite resort of the American Landscapists, 
and has grown to be a veritable " watering-place," 
in the great numbers of tourists who not only 
pass, but linger within its borders. Pleasant ho- 
tels and boarding-houses are springing up, and 
country villas even are beginning to dot its 
knolls, and to lurk in its verdant glens. The 
picturesque portion of this vallej', par excellence, 
is North Conway, where the Kearsarge House 
(Thompson's), or the Washington House, offers 
all desirable hotel appliances. Beside the dis- 
tant views of the White Mountain ranges, proper, 
which are of surpassing interest here, Conway is 
full of local and neighboring attractions of the 
greatest beauty, as are the broad meadows, and 
the wooded, winding banks of the Saco ; the nooks 
and turns of the Artists' Brook, and other elfish 
watery ; the Paquawket Mountain, those grand 
perpendicular cliffs, 650 and 950 feet in height, 



called the Ledges ; the magnificent peaks of 
Kearsarge and Chicorua ; the Echo Lake, the 
Crystal Falls, and Diana's Bath. 

Conway village and Conway corners are a few 
miles below North Conway. They are most 
agreeable places, en route, amply supplied with 
hotel accommodations. Leaving Conway, as the 
tourist does, the morning following that of his 
departure from Boston, he continues on through 
valley and over hill, 24 miles to the Crawford 
House, where we shall meet him when we have 
followed over other routes to the threshold of the 
mountains. We will, however, accompany him 
yet on his journey from Conwaj', through Bart- 
Ictt and Jackson, by the Old Crawford House ; 
and by the famous Willey House, the scene of 
the a'^\'ful avalanches of 1S26, when the entire 
Willey family were destroyed. (See further 
■mention later.) 

Route 2. From Boston, 68 miles via Lawrence 
to Dover, N. H., on the Boston and Maine Rail- 
road. Dover is a pleasant town of some 8,000 
people ; upon the banks and at the falls of the 
Cocheco River, a tributary of the Piscataqua, 
Our route leads hence by the Cocheco Railroad 
to Alton Baj' ; southern extremity of Lake Win- 
nipiseogee. ' Here, we take the steamer Dover 
for Centre Harbor, traversing the entire length 
of the lake, and proceed thence via Conway, as 
in Route 1. 

Routes. From Boston, 26 miles, to the famous 
manufacturing city of Lowell. (See Boston and 
Vicinity.) From Lowell, 15 miles, to Nashua— 
an important manufacturing town, at the con- 
fiuence of the Nashua with the Merrimao river ; 
thence, 35 miles, to Concord, N. H., and from 
Concord to Weirs and Centre Harbor, on Lake 
Winnipiseogee, and on, via Conway, as in Routes 
1 and 2. 

Route 4. From' Boston, as in Route 1, or 3, 
to Weirs, on Lake Winnipiseogee, thence on, 
without stopping, to Plymouth, N. H., where 
passengers dine and take stage for the rest of 
the way ; or where they remain all night, if they 
leave Boston by the noon, instead of the morning 
train. Plymouth is in the midst of a noble 
mountain landscape, being the extreme southern 
threshold of the Franconia range of the White 
Hills. It is upon the banks of the beautiful 
Pemigewasset river, near its confluence with 
Baker's river. The Pemigewasset House here, 
at the railway station, is an inviting place for 
summer tarry. The Wells River and Littleton 
route from Boston to the mountains by the west 
passes Plymouth. 

Leaving Plymouth in the stage, after dinner, 
we reach the Flume House, at the Franconia 
Notch, 24 miles distant, the same evening, unless 
we stop by the way, as would be very reasonable 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



67 



—for the whole journey is through most inviting 
epota and places. The villagea on the route are 
but little all'aira ; and there is not a fashionable 
hotel in all the distance, until we reach the 
Flume ; but there are numerous small inns, 
where artists and their families are well content 
to pass the summer. There is such an one &\ 

"West Campton, a little hamlet on Pemige- 
wasset river, seven miles above Plymouth. West 
Campton is becoming a greater resort of the 
landscape painters than North Conway, on the 
south-east slope of the mountains, has been for 
several years past. Other tourists will follow, 
and hotels and boarding-houses will grow up 
with the demand. The views liere, of the Pran- 
couia Hills, are especially tine, and the river and 
brook landscape, with its wealth and variety of 
vegetation, is of extraordinary interest. The 
Pemigewasset river, which rises in the little lakes 
. of the Franconia Mountains, winds through all 
the wonderful valley which we traverse between 
Plymouth and the Flume House. "We shall re- 
join our tourist, by and by, at the Flume. 

RoDTB 5. To Boston, same as in Route 1, to 
"Weirs on Lake Winnipiseogee, thence on, with- 
out; halt (as in roitte 4), to Plymouth, K. H. 
Thence, after dinner {morning train from Bos- 
ton), still upon the railroad, 42 miles, to "Wells 
River, "Vermont. 

Wells River is at the junction of the Connecti- 
cut and Wells river — a famous meeting-point of 
railway lines. Our present route meets here 
with the Connecticut valley road to the Wliite 
Mountains. The "Vermont Central Road, from 
Burlington, on Lake Champlain, comes in at 
White River Junction, 40 miles below. From 
Wells River our roifte proceeds by White 
Mountains Railroad, 20 miles, to Littleton, and 
for the rest of the way, by stage, either to the 
Franconia Notch, 12 miles (Prolile House), or 
to the Eastern or White Mountain Notch (Craw- 
ford House), 22 miles. 

Route 6. Via Portland, and through Maine, 
on the east sidf of the mountains. This route, 
as Routes 7, 8, and 9, are all agreeable approach- 
es to the White Hills, but more circuitous from 
New York or Boston, than either of the Routes 
1 to 5. The Boston and Maine, one of the two 
railways from Boston, to Portland, runs (111 
miles) east of north, and always near the At- 
lantic coast, through portions of Massachusetts 
and through New Hampshire. (See " Boston 
to Portland.") From Portland our present 
route is by the Grand Trunk Railway, 91 miles, 
to Gorham, N. H. The Rev. Mr. Willey, inhis 
" Incidents in White Mountain History," saj's 
©f Gorham that "it is a rough, unproductive 
township, lying on the northerly base of the 
mountains. The opening of the Atlantic and St, 



Lawrence Railway (the Grand Trunk) brought 
the little town out from the greatest obscurity, 
and it has become one of the favorite resorts for 
the travelling community. Its peculiarly favora- 
ble situation for viewing the mountains was 
never known until travellers, posting through its 
borders, for other destinations, were compelled 
to admire its beauties. 

" Immediately on the completion of the rail- 
road to this point, the Alpine House was erected, 
and the announcement made that the cars set 
passengers down at the very base of the White 
Mountains. People, for a moment, were dumb 
with astonishment. It had never been supposed 
that there was any north or south, or east or 
west, to these old heights ; but that every ono 
who visited them must make up his mind for a 
long stage-coach ride through Conway or Little- 
ton, and ultimately be set down at the Crawford 
or Fabyan's. That the oars should actually carry 
visitors to the base of the mountains was some- 
thing which every one had supposed would take 
place in the far-off future, but not until they 
themselves had ceased to travel ; but it was cer- 
tainly so ; and the Alpine House and Gorham 
had become fanriliar words to travellers. 

"The Alpine House is a large hotel, owned 
by the railroad company. It is some distance 
from the base of the mountains, which are sel- 
dom ascended from this point ; but fur quiet and 
comfort, and beautiful drives, it is surpassed by 
no house in the White Hills. A beautiful littlo 
viltage has sprung up around it, consisting mostly 
of buildings owned by the company. The Post 
Office is kept here, and the telegraph afibrds an 
excellent opportunity to business men to visit 
the mountains and attend to their business at tho 
same time. Mount Moriah, Randolph Hill, Ber- 
lin Falls, and Lary's, should all be visited before 
the traveller takes his departure." 

The Glen House, our next point, (seven 
miles from Gorham), is, says Mr. Willey, whom 
we have just quoted, "in the valley of the Pea- 
body river, immediately under Mount Washing- 
ton, and in the midst of the loftiest summits in 
the whole mountain district. The house is situ- 
ated in Bellows' clearing, which contains about 
100 acres. For a base view of the mountains, no 
spot could be selected so good. Several huge 
mountains show themselves proudly to view, in 
front of the piazza, nothing intervening to ob- 
scure their giant forms. You see them before 
you in all their noble, calm, and silent grandeur, 
severally seeming the repose of power and 
strength. On the left is the mountain bearing 
the worthiest name our country ever gave us. 
Toward the right of its rock-crowned summit 
rise, in full view, the celebrated peaks of Adams 
and Jeflersou— tho one pointed, the other round- 



68 



NEW HAMPSHIEE. 



ed. On both. wingB of these towering summits 
are the tops of lesser elevations. In ski opposite 
direction, fronting the ' patriot group ' of gigantic 
forms, is the long, irregular rise of Carter 
Mountains." 

It is from the Glen House that a famous car- 
riage way was to lead to the summit of Mount 
Washington. This road was to be eight mi'.es 
long, and was to bo made to the very crown of 
the lofty mountain ; 15 feet wide, clear of all ob- 
structions, and macadamized throughout. The 
average grade was to be an ascent of oue foot to 
eight and a half feet, with frequent stations at 
eligible points of view. The estimated cost of 
this road was 100,000 dollars. A magnificent ho- 
tel was to be built upon the mountain top. This 
bold project has, since our earlier editions, been In 
a great measure realized ; the carriage-way having 
been completed and successfully used. 

From the Glen House we must now reach the 
Crawford House, on the mountain, 34 miles 
distant, via the Pinckham Notch, or by Cherry 
Mountain. 

Route 7, is from Boston to Portland, by the 
Eastern (the lower) Railway, through Lynn, 
Newburyport, and other towns in Massachu- 
setts, and Portsmouth, in New Hampshire. 
From Portland we pi-oceed by Grand Trunk 
road to Gorham, as in Route 6. 

Route 8. From Boston to Portland, by 
steamer, and thence as in R-oute 6. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS — SCENES AND INCIDENTS. 

These mountains cover an area of about 40 
miles square, in Northern New Hampshire ; 
though the name of White Mountains is, in the 
neighborhood, given to the central group only— 
the half-dozen lofty peaks, of which Mount 
Washington is the royal head and front. The 
western cluster is contra-distinguished as the 
Franconia range. We will suppose our tourist 
to have made his approach on the south-east, to 
the Central or White Mountain group, via Route 
4, Lake Winnipiseogee and Conway valley, and 
thus meet him at the Crawford House, near the 

Great Notcli. The mountains, which have 
gradually gathered about us, in our steep ascent 
here have all closed in. The magnitioent pass — 
the Gateway of the Notch, is a chasm between 
two perpendicular masses of rook, approaching 
each other to within 22 feet. Dark overhang- 
ing cliffs stand as sentinels over this solemn 
pass, and it has been a work of toil to cut a path- 
way through the frowning barrier. This gorge 
is some three miles long, descending the valley 
of the Saoo, towards "the Willey House.'' 
LTpou the north, the bold cliffs of Mount Willard 
rise to the height of 2,000 feet above quiet vales 



below. The rugged flanks of the devoted Motmt 
Willey, bearing yet the fatal tempest scars of 
1826, stop the view on the left, while Mount 
Webster — dark, and mas-sive, and grand, as was 
he whose name it bears — lills the landscape on 
the right. 

Tlie White Mountains (specifically so called) 
extend from the Notch, in a north-easterly direc- 
tion, some 14 miles, increasing from each end of 
the line gradually in height towards Mount 
Washington, in the centre. These respective 
elevations are, in the order in which they stand, 
beginning at the Notch — Mount Webster, 4,000 
feet above the level of the sea ; Jackson, 4,100 
Clinton, 4,200 ; Pleasant, 4,800 ; Franklin, 4,900 
Monroe, 5,300 ; Washington, 6,500; Clay, 5,400 
Adams, 5,700 ; Jefi'erson, 5,800 ; and Madison, 
6,400. 

Passing westward from the Notch, we reach. 
the valley of the Ammanoosuc, after a distance 
of four miles, through dense woods, and enter 
abruptly into a spacious clearing, from which 
the whole mountain group bursts upon our won- 
dering sight. Here, upon the " Giant's Grave," 
an eminence of some 60 feet, the panorama is 
marvellous. In the centre of the amphitheatre 
of hills. Mount Washington, barren, and seamed 
and whitened by the winter tempests of cen- 
turies, looks down, upon the right and upon the 
left, on the hoary heads of Webster and Madi- 
son — each, on its side, the outpost of the moun- 
tain army. 

Tlie Hotels. The Crawford House— a most 
excellent establishment — bears the name of the 
earliest hosts of these mountain gorges. The 
story of the adventures and the endurance of the 
early settlers here, is extremely interesting. 
How Captain Eleazar Rosebrook, of Massachn- 
setts, built a house on the site of the Giant's 
Grave, four miles from the Notch, afterward oc- 
cupied by Fabyan's Mount Washington Hotel* 
— how his nearest neighbors were 20 miles away, 
excepting the Crawford family, 12 miles down 
in the Notch valley — the present old Crawford 
House, at the base of the mountains, coming 
from Conway, on the south-east. How the 
Rosebrook children were often sent, for family 
supplies, over the long and dangerous path to 
the Crawfbrds', returning, not unfrequently, lato 
at night — how Ethan Allen Crawford was heir 
to the Rosebrook estate, and how he became 
known as the " Giant of the Hills " — how he and 
his family made the first mountain paths,t and 
were for long years the only guides over them of 
the rare visitors,which the brief summers brought 
—and how they have since seen their home 

* Destroyed by fire and never rebnilt. 
t Tbe first bridle-patli was cut by Etban Cra-wford, In 
1821. 



NEW EAMPSHIEE. 



69 



thronged, for weeks together, like a city saloon, 
witli beauty aud fashion. The Crawfords are a 
large, athletic race. Abel, th^ father, called the 
" Patriarch of the mountains," -would walk five 
mountain miles, to his son's, before breakfast, at 
the age of SO. At 70, he made the first ascent ever 
made on horseback, to the top of Mount Wash- 
ington. His sons were all over six feet tall ; and 
one of them was six and a half feet, and another, 
Ethan Allen, was seven feet in height. 

Ascent of Mount "Wasliing'ton. The 
chief exploit of the visitor, at this group of the 
White Hills, is to ascend Mount Washington ; 
and a toilsome, and even dangerous feat it is to 
this daj', despite the improved facilities of travel. 
The journey from the Crawford House is nine 
miles, made on the backs of Canadian ponies, 
over the old Crawford bridle-paths, though a 
grand carriage-way is now completed, from the 
Glen House on the opposite side of the moun- 
tain. (See Glen House.) The excursion oc- 
cupies a long day, with the utmost industry. 
We made it, on one occasion, in midsummer, 
with a party of thirty ladies and gentlemen, be- 
sides our guides, and it was a gay scene — the 
getting en route, and a singular cavalcade ; miles 
onward as we wound, in Indian file, cautiously 
along the rugged, narrow path, trusting to our 
trusty ponies to walk with us upon their backs, 
over logs, and rocks, and chasms, which we 
would not have dared to leap ourselves ; and 
surprising was the picture, as we at length 
bivouacked, and ate our grateful lunch, upon the 
all-seeing crest of the grand old mountain. At 
another time, we ascended, in the middle of 
October, when we could muster no larger group 
than our friend, ourself, and our guide. For 
two miles from the summit, the way was block- 
ed with snow ; so wo left our ponies to take care 
of themselves, and completed the tramp on foot. 
The day, though so bitterly cold as to remind us 
of Webster's salutation upon a like occasion — 
" Mount Washington 1 1 have come a very long dis- 
tance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, 
and now you give me but a cold reception" — was 
happily a brilliant one ; the atmosphere was ex- 
ceedingly clear : and we had the delight of see- 
ing all the delicious panorama, which has been 
thus catalogued : — 

View from the Summit. " In the west, 
through the blue haze, are seen, in the distance, 
the ranges of the Green Mountains ; the re- 
markable outlines of the summits of Camel's 
Hump and Mansfield Mountain being easily dis- 
tinguished when the atmosphere is clear.- To 
the north-west, under your feet, are the clear- 
ings and settlement of JeSerson, and the waters 
of Cherry Pond ; and, further distant, the vil- 
lage of Lancaster, with th» waters of Israel's 



river. The Connecticut is harely visible ; and 
often its appearance for miles is counterfeited 
by the fog rising from its surface. To the north 
and north-east, only a few miles distant, rise up 
boldly the great north-eastern peaks of the 
White Mountain range— Jeffterson, Adams, and 
Madison — with their ragged tops of loose dark 
rocks. A little further to the east are seen the 
numerous and distant summits of the mountains 
of Maine. On the south-east, close at hand, aro 
the dark and crowded ridges of the mountains 
of Jackson ; and beyond, the conical summit of 
Kearsarge, standing by itself, on the outskirts 
of the mountains ; and, further over the low 
country of Maine, Sebago Pond, near Portland. 
StUl further, it is said, the ocean itself has some- 
times been distinctly vi&ible. 

" The White Mountains are often seen from 
the sea, even at 30 miles distance from the 
shore ; and nothing can prevent the sea from 
being seen from the mountains, but the difficulty 
of distinguishing its appearance from that of the 
sky near the horizon. 

" Further to the south are the intervals of the 
Saco, and the settlements of Bartlett and Con- 
way, the sister ponds of Lovell, in Fryburg ; 
and, still further, the remarkable four-toothed 
summit of the Chocorua, the peak to the right 
being much largest, and sharply pyramidal. 
Almost exactly south are the shining waters of 
the beautiful Winnipiseogee, seen with the 
greatest distinctness in a favorable day. To the 
south-west, near at hand, are the peaks of the 
south-western range of the White Mountains ; 
Monroe, with its two little alpine ponds sleeping 
under its rocky and pointed summit ; the flat 
surface of Franklin, and the rounded top of 
Pleasant, with their ridges and spurs. Beyond 
these, the Willey Mountain, with its high, 
ridged summit ; and, beyond that, several paral- 
lel ranges of high- wooded mountains. Further 
west, and over aU, is seen the high, bare summit 
of Mount Lafayette, in Franconia." 

Tuckerman's Ravine is a marvellous 
place, seen in the ascent of the mountains, by 
the Davis' Koad leading from the Crawford 
House. It lies upon the right in passing over 
the high spur directly south-east of Mount Wash- 
ington. Turning aside, the edge of the preci- 
pice is reached, and may he descended by a 
rugged pathway. It is a long, deep glen, with 
frowning walls, often quite inaccessible. It is 
filled, hundreds of feet deep, by the winter 
snows, through which a brook steals, as summer 
suns draw near, gradually -wtdening its channel, 
until it fiows through a grand snow oave, which 
was found, by measurement, to be, one season, 
84 feet wide on the inside, 40 feet high, and 180 
feet long. The enow forming the arch was 20 



70 



NEW HAMPSHIEE. 



feet tMck I The engineers of the projected car- 
riage road went through this arch one July, in 
the hed of the stream, to the foot of the cataract, 
which flows for 1,000 feet, down the wild moun- 
tain side. 

Oakes' Gulf is another fathomless cavern, 
seen, far down on the right, in winding around 
the summit of Mount Monroe. Near the sum- 
mit of Mount Washington, a few rods north- 
ward, is yet another hlack abyss, which is called 
the Great Gulf. Its descent here is 2,000 feet, 
rugged and precipitous. 

The Summit House. The building of the 
rude inn, which now stouds upon the summit of. 
Mount Washington where the great hotel is to 
he when the grand projected ro.ad is completed, 
was a daring and painful enterprise. It is said 
the hold scheme was suggested by Jos. S. Hall, 
for many years a guide from the !N"otch House. 
" The house was located," says Mr. Willey, " un- 
der the lee of the highest rocks on Mount Wash- 
ington, and was laid out forty feet long, and 
twenty-two feet wide. The walls were four feet 
thick, laid in cement, and every stone had to be 
raised to its place by muscular strength alone. 

While these were laying the walls, the mate- 
rials for finishing and furnishing were being 
dragged up from the Glen House, a distance of 
six miles. Lime, boards, nails, shingles, timbers, 
furniture, crockery, bedding and stoves, all had 
to bo brought up by piecemeal on the men's or 
horses' backs. K"o one ever went up without 
taking something — a chair* or door, or piece of 
crockery. Four boards (about sixty feet) could 
be carried up at once on a horse's back, and but 
one trip could be made daily. Mr. Rosebrook, 
a young giant, carried up at one time a door of the 
usual length, three feet wide, three and one-half 
inches thick, ten pounds of pork, and one gallon 
of molasses. 

The walls were raised eight feet high, and to 
these the roof was fastened by strong iron bolts ; 
while over the whole structure were passed 
strong cables, fastened to the solid mountain 
itself. The inside was thrown, primitive fash- 
ion, into one room, in wliich the beds were ar- 
ranged, herth-hke, for the most part on one side 
of the room, in two tiers, with curtains in front. 
A table, capable of seating thirty or forty per- 
sons, ran lengthwise of the room. At one end of 
the room a cooking-stove and the other furniture 
of a kitchen were placed, with a curtain between 
it and the table. At the other end was a small 
stove, in which was burned mountain moss. 
The walls are perfectly rough, outside and in ; a 
httle plaster upon the inside naerely fills up the 
chinks. The Tip Top House was the second 
BtriTCture erected here. 

Much as wo have necessarily left unseen, on 



the mountains, we must now descend, and with 

a hasty peep at some yet unmentioned scenes, 
in the Ticinage of the Notch, pass on, thirty-six 
miles, to the Frauconia range, in the west. 

Th.e Silver Cascade is a favorite scene, 
about half a mile soutli of tno entrance to the 
Notch. It is one of the most charming water- 
falls imaginable, seen at a distance of two miles, 
bubbling down the mountain side, eight hun- 
dred feet above the neighboring valley. 

The JPlume is another cascade yet further 
down the Notch. It descends two hundred and 
fifty feet, in two rills, over two precipices, and 
there are three streams over a land ledge, re- 
uniting in a small rocky basin below. 

The Devil's Den is a mysterious cavern, 
near the top of Mount Willard, opposite the Sil- 
ver and the Flume cascades. 

The Crystal Falls, of eighty feet, and the 
Glen Ellis Falls, of seventy feet, are on the Ellis 
River, the one on the left and the other on the 
right of the road from Jackson to the Glen 
House. 

The Amraanoosuc River, rising in this 
group of the White Mountains, and followed in 
the journey towards the Franconia Hills, is a 
stream of wonderful beautj-. It falls 6,000 feet 
from its source on the mountain, to the Connec- 
ticut River, and is said to be the wildest and 
most impetuous river in New Hampshire. It 
abounds in r.ipids and cascades. 

The "Willey House is passed some miles 
below, at the commencement of the ascent to 
the Notch. The spot will be for ever of memor- 
able interest, from its tragic story of the fearful 
avalanches of 1S26, when the entire family which 
then occupied the house — Mr. Willey, his wife, 
five children, and two hired men — were all 
buried beneath the mighty debris of the moun- 
tain slides. 

The ride through the hills and by the water- 
falls, 23 cheery miles from the Crawford House 
to the Profile House, in the Franconia Pass, 
might detain us pleasantly enough at many 
points, but we bear our traveller on, at once, to 
the last chapter of our White Mountain 8torJ^ 

The Franconia Hills, though in popular 
estimation inferior in interest to the eastern 
cluster, are really not so ; except it be in the 
wonders of the mountain ascents ; and even in 
this, the panorama, from the summit of La- 
fayette, is scarcely less extensive or less impos- 
ing than the scene from the crown of Mount 
Washington, while the exquisite little lakes, and 
the singular natural eccentricities in the Fran- 
conia group, have no counterpart in the other. 
In this, as in other ranges of the White Hills, 
the mountains are densely wooded at their base, 
while their rock-ribbed summits are barren, and 



NEW HAMPSHIEE. 



71 



Bcarrcd by time and tempest. The hills ap- 
proach, at one point, to within half a mile of 
each other, and form the wild proorustean por- 
tal, called the Notch. 

Mount Lafayette, or the Great Haystack, 
is the monarch of the Francoaia kingdom, tow- 
ering up, skyward, to the height of 5,200 feet. 
Its lofty pyramidal peaks are the chief objects, 
in .all views, for many miles around. 

Eag-le Cliff is a magnificently hold and rocky 
promoutor}', near Mount Lafayette. It casts its 
dark shadows down many hundred feet into the 
glen, traversed by the road beneath. 

Cannon Mountain, 2,000 feet above the 
road and 4,000 above the sea, is nearly opposite 
Lafayette, and forms the western side of the 
Kotch. Away up upon its crown is a group of 
mighty rocks, which, aa seen, from the Profile 
House below, bear an exact resemblance to a 
mounted cannon. It is upon this mountain, also, 
that we find that marvellous freak of nature. 

The Profile Kock, or The Old Man of 
the Mountain.— This wonderfnl eccentricity, 
so admirably' counterfeiting a human face, is SO 
feet long, from the chin to the top of the fore- 
head, and is 1,200 feet above the level of the road, 
being yet far below the summit of the mountain. 
This strange apparition is formed of three dis- 
tinct masses of rock, one making the forehead, 
another the nose and upper lip, and a third the 
chin. The rocks are brought into the proper 
relation to form the Profile, at one point only, 
upon the road, through the Notch, a qtiarter 
of a mile south of the Profile House. The face 
is boldly and clearly relieved against the sky, 
and, except in a little sentiment of weakness 
about the mouth, has the air of a stern, strong 
character, well able to bear, as ho has done un- 
flinchingly, for centuries, the scorching suns of 
summer and the tempest blasts of winter. 
Passing down the road a little way, the " Old 
Man " is transformed into a " toothless old 
woman in a mob cap ;" and, soon after, melts 
into thin air, and is seen no more. Hawthorne 
has found in this scene the theme of one of the 
pleasantest of his "Twice Told Tales," that 
called the " The Old Stone Face." 

The Profile Lake is a beautiful little jpond, 
lying at the base of the mountain, and imme- 
diately under the ever-watchful eye of the stern 
"Old Man." This lakelet is sometimes called 
the " Old Man's "Wash-bowl." It is a quarter of 
a mile long and about half as wide. 

Echo Lake, one of the greatest charms of 
this part of the White Mt. region, is a diminu- 
tive but \QYy deep and beautiful pond, north of 
the Cannon Mountain. It is entirely enclosed by 
high mountains. From, the centre of this fairy 
water, a voice, in ordinary tone, will bo echoed 



distinctly several times, and the report of a gun 
breaks upon the rocks like the roar of artillery. 
The Indian superstition was, that these echoes 
were the voice of the Great Spirit, speaking in 
gentleness or in anger. 

The Basin, another remarkable scene of this 
neighborhood, is five miles south of the Notch. 
It lies near the road side, where the Pemige- 
wasset has worn deep and curious cavities in the 
solid rocks. The basin is 45 feet in diameter, 
.and 2S feet from the edge^' to the bottom of the 
water. It is nearly circular, and has been gra- 
dually made by the whirling of rocks round and 
round in the strong current. The water, as it 
comes from the Basin, falls into most charming 
cascades. At the outlet, the lower edge of the 
rocks has been worn into a very remarkable like- 
ness of the human leg and foot. 

The Plume, the last and most famous, 
perhaps, of all the Franconia wonders, is quickly 
and easily reached from the Flume House. 
Leaving the road, just below the Basin, we turn 
to the left among the hills, and after a tramp of 
a mile, reach a bare granite ledge a hundred feet 
high and about thirty feet wide, over which a 
small stream makes its varied way. Near the 
top of this ledge we approach the ravine known 
as the Flume. The rocky walls here are fifty 
feet in height, and not more than twenty feet 
apart. Through this grand fissure comes the 
little brook which we have just seen. Except in 
seasons of freshets, the bed of the stream is nar- 
row enough to give the visitor dry passage up 
the curious glen, which extends several hundred 
feet, the walls approaching, near the upper 
extremity, to within ten or eleven feet of each 
other. 

About midway, a tremendous boulder, several 
tons in weight, bangs suspended between the 
clifls, where it has been caught in its descent 
from the mountain above. A dangerous bridge 
for a timid step has been sprung across the 
ravine, near the top, by the faUing of a forest 
tree. 

The Pool, a supplemental or tail piece to the 
great picture of the Flume, is a deep natural 
well in the solid rock. The di.ameter of the 
Pool is about sixty feet ; the depth to the surface 
of the water is 150 feet, and the water itself ex- 
tends 40 feet yet below. Some years ago, a poor 
fellow was unlucky enough to fall into this plu- 
tonian cul de sac, but he clung to a crag just 
above the water until ropes were lowered, and 
he was, wonderful to relate, fished up, though 
bruised and not a little scared, yet alive I 



"We have now peeped hastily at the leading 
points of interest in the grand Granite Hills ; but 
the enterprising tourist of an enquiring turn of 



72 



TEEMONT. 



mind, may, very easily, discover for himself a 
thousand other marvels and delights ; or, if ho 
cares not to explore new scenes for himself, he 
may bend his way northward, via Littleton, and 



hetween Colebrook and Errol, penetrate the 
well-known, hut as yet very little visited slate- 
stone gorge, called the Dixville Notch. 



VERMONT. 

The thousand points of interest in the Green Hills of Vermont have not yet received their due 
meed of favor from tourists, hut their claims to especial homage are now being fully admitted. 
The mountain chain pretends from near New Haven, in Connecticut, northward through Massa- 
chusetts and Vermont, into Canada ; though, properly speaking, it lies in Vermont alone, where 
are the chief summits of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, ConnoU's Peak, Shrewsbury Mountain, South 
Peak, Killington Peak, Ascutney (on the Connecticut), and others. After the White Mountains 
of jSTew Hampshire, the Green Hills rank with the noblest groups west of the Eocky Mountains— 
-with the Blue Ridge in North Carolina, Georgia, and Virginia, the AUeghanies in Pennsylvania, 
and the CatskiU and the Adirondacks, New York. 



The Vermont Central Raihcay ivom Burling- 
ton, on Lake Champlain, eastward via Montpe- 
lier, the capital of Vermont, to the shores of the 
Connecticut River, traverses the valley of the 
Winooski, bj' the banks of the Winooski River, 
and gives easy access to Mount Camel's Hump 
and Mount Mansfield. 

The "Valley and Hiver of Winooski.— 
The Winooski traverses almost the entire breadth 
of northern Vermont. Rising in Caledonia, its 
course is generally westward to Lake Champlain, 
40 miles from which it passes through Moutpe- 
lier, the capital of Vermont. The Vermont 
Central Railway from Burlington to the Con- 
necticut runs through the valley, and very 
closely follows the banks of the river as far east- 
ward as Montpelier. Some of its valley pas- 
sages are scenes of great pastoral beaut}', strongly 
conti-asted with high mountain surroundings, 
the singularly- formed peak of Camel's Hump 
continually reoccurring, sometimes barely peep- 
ing over intervening ranges, and again — as near 
the middle of the vaUey stretch — coming into full 
display. In places, the Winooski is a wild tur- 
bulent water, dashing over stern precipices and 
through rugged defiles. It is found in this rough 
mood just above the village of Winooski, a few 
miles from Burlington, where the waters rush in 
rapid and cascade through a ravine a hundred 
feet. This picture is well seen from the railway. 
Passing on into the open valley lands, which suc- 
ceed. Mount Camel's Hump comes finely into 
view, as the central and crowning point of one 
of the sweetest pictures of all this region. Con- 
tinuing always through scenes of great pictur 
esque interest, the tourist comes to the village of 
Richmond, 13 miles from Burlington, and three 



miles, yet beyond, to Jonesville, a little scattered 
village of fine farms, lying upon both sides of the 
river. The inn here was a famous half-way 
house in the journey between Burlington and 
Montpelier, before the railway was built, and it 
is still a pic-nic and excursion resort for all the 
region. It is an excellent and very inexpensive 
place for a little quiet tarry. Mount Camel's 
Hump is accessible from this vicinity, and a 
stage runs from the hotel, some nine or ten miles, 
to TJnderhill Centre, at the foot of Mount Mans- 
field. On the south side of the Winooski, at 
Jonesville, the Huntington River comes in, after 
an exceedingly wild journey for the last two or 
three miles of its course, through fine rocky 
ravines, which it traverses with many bold foam- 
ing leaps. About three miles yet east of Jones- 
ville, near Bolton, there is the most striking pic- 
ture in all the Winooski gallery. It is beauti- 
fully seen from the cars on the left, but yet very 
inadequately. Prom the bottom of the glen 
through which the maddened waters here make 
their way, the huge cliff's on either hand, the 
torrent foaming at their feet, and the gentle bit 
of verdant interval, ■with the tall crest of Ciimel's 
Hump, seen beyond, within the frame of the op- 
posing precipices, make altogether a scene well 
worth the looking for. The pictorial interest of 
this valley transit is admirably sustained at all 
points, as far as we yet follow it onward, through 
Waterbury and Middlesex, to Montpelier, where 
some of the best scenes the traveller will find, 
when he looks abroad from the hill-tops there, 
have been kept to the last. 

Mount Camel's Hump, the most salient 
feature in the Winooski landscape, is the highest 
of aU the Green Mountain peaks, having an ele- 



VERMONT. 



73 



yation of 4,188 feet. It may be ascended, -with- 
out much difficulty, from any side, though the 
usual point of access is at Duxljury , from whence 
carriages can pass to withiu three miles of the 
Bumniit. The mountain is crowned by jagged, 
barren rocks, and the imposing scene which the 
lofty heights overlook is in no way obstructed 
by the forest veil, which often disappoints the 
hopeful climber of forbidding mountain tops. 

Mansfield Mountain, the second in dig- 
nity of the Green Hills, is very accessible from 
the village of UnderhiU Centre on the north, or 
yet more easily from Stow on the south, both of 
which points may be reached from the Vermont 
Central road — UnderhiU, from Jonesville station, 
and Stow from Waterbury. The views of the 
mountain itself, its cliffs and peaks, are very 
grand from many points in the path upwards, 
and the panorama unfolded upon the summit is, if 
possible, finer than that from the Camel's Hump. 
Lake Champlain and the Adirondack peaks 
lie to the westward, while the White Moun- 
tains of New Hampshire make yet new pic- 
tures on the east ; and, again, the many crests of 
the Green Hills, with their intervening vales and 
lakes and villages, stretch out towards the south. 

Montpelier.— Hotels :— The Pavilion. 

Montpelier on the east, and Burlington 
on the west, are the two extremities of the 
Winooski section of the Green Mountain scen- 
ery. Burlington is upon the Lake Champlain 
shore, and is the largest town in Vermont. We 
have already mentioned it in our tour from Kew 
Tork to Canada. Montpelier is the State capi- 
tal. It has a population of between two and 
three thousand ; is a very pretty town, and 
with the charm of most beautiful natural sur- 
roundings, and the comforts of an excellent hotel, 
it ia perfectly eligible as a summer residence. 
The "Winooski river passes here. Alittle branch 
railway, of a mile or so, connects Montpelier with 
the Central road. The State House, which was 
destroyed by fire January 6th, 1857, was an im- 
posing granite edifice, in the form of a cross. It 
was 150 feet in length, and 100 deep. It had a 
fine portico of six columns, each six feet in 
diameter at the base, and 36 feet high. The apex 
of the dome which crowned the structure was 
100 feet from the ground. Among the objects of 
interest in this edifice were two pieces of cannon 
taken from the Hessians at the battle of Ben- 
nington. 

Rutland to Burlington, 

Hxitland.— Hotels :—Bar£fipeM House, and 
Central House. 
Rutland is near the western borders of Ver- 

4 



mont, south of the centre of the State, and nearly 
east of Whitehall, at the lower extremity of Lake 
Champlain. It is a centre of railway lines for 
all points of the compass. The Troy, Whitehall, 
andCastleton R. E., 95 miles, unites Rutland 
with Troy and Albany, via Whitehall and Sara- 
toga Springs. It is also connected, again, with 
Troy and Albany, by the Albany, Vermont, and 
Canada line (formerly Albany Northern) to 
Eagles Bridge, and thence by the Rutland and 
Washington road, 95 miles, as via VV hitehah and 
Saratoga ; and yet again, via North Bennington, 
by the Troy and Boston and Western Vermont 
roads, 84 miles. The famous Hoosick tunnel is 
near the line of this route. Northward, it is con- 
nected with Burlington, and all the routes which 
Intersect at that point, by the Rutland and Bur- 
lington R. R., 50 miles and eastward with Bel- 
lows' Falls, on the Connecticut^, by another 
division of the same line. Rutland is a pleasant 
town, with a population of about 4,000, sitiiated 
in the midst of some of the finest of the Vermont 
hill and valley scenery, at the foot of the western 
slope of the mountains. Otter Creek, a most 
picturesque stream in all its course, passes by 
the village, and Killington I'eak is admirably 
seen as the leading feature in the landscape 
around. 

The Clarendon Springs, a favorite place 
of resort, is a few miles south of Rutland, on the 
Rutland and Washington Railroad. The medi- 
cal virtues of these Waters, the varied and 
beautiful scenery, the pleasant drives around, 
and tlie excellent hotel accommodations, make 
this watering-place a very desirable summer halt. 

The Otter Creek Palls, at Vergennes, are 
upon the Otter Creek, about seven miles from 
Lake Champlain. The brook is 500 feet in 
width, divided by a fine ishand, on either side of 
which the Fall leaps bravely some 30 or 40 feet. 
There are many other beautiful cascades in the 
Otter Creek. Some at Middlebur}', above Rut- 
land ; and a few miles below Middlebury, still 
others of yet greater interest. 

The Elgin Spring is in the neighborhood 
of the Otter Creek cascades. 

Killington Peak, rising grandly on the east 
of Rutland, is the third in rank of the moimtains 
of Vermont. A visit to this peak makes a pleas- 
ant excursion from the neighborhood. To the 
f<Wt of the mountain the distance is seven miles, 
and two miles more to the summit. On the 
north side is a perpendicular ledge of 200 feet, 
called Capitol Rock. Mount Ira, too, is here- 
abouts, and beyond Killington Peak, as seen from 
Rutland, and northward are Mount Pico and 
Castleton Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake 
Champlain. 

Lake Dunmore is a delicioua water, 30 



74 



YEEMONT. — ^NEW TOEK. 



miles above Rutland. It is on the railway to 
Burlington, a iew miles (by stage) from Middle- 
bury. Dunmore is a wonderfully picturesque 
lake, surrounded at most points by bold hills, 
seen here in verdant slopes, and there in rocky 
bluff and cliff. The lake is about five miles in 
length and three in breadth. A good summer 
hotel is upon its banks. 

Lake Castleton, in this neighborhood, is 
also a most interesting scene. 

Eastward from Rutland, the route lies amidst 
the beauties of the Queechy Valley, replete wth 
delightful pictures of running and falling waters, 
and of grassy meadows and wooded hills. 

Middlebury is upon the railway to Burling- 
ton, 30 miles from Rutland. It is upon the Otter 
Creek, near some fine falls on that stream, and 
is also a few miles only from Lake Dunmore. 
It has a population (the township) of some 4,000, 
and, like nearly aU the villages in Vermont, is a 
very beautiful place, surrounded at all points by 
most attractive mountain scenerJ^ It is distin- 
guished as one of the first manufacturing towns 
in the State, and also as the seat of Middlebury 
College. This institution was founded in 1800. 
Its chief edifice is 100 feet long and four stories 
high, built of stone. 

Brandon, on the route of the Rutland rail- 
road, is a flourishing town, finely watered by 
Otter Creek, Mill River, and Spring Pond, on 
which streams are good mill-seats. Minerals of 
fine quality are found in this town. There are 
here two curious caverns formed of Umestone 
the largest containing two apartments, each from 
16 to 20 feet square. It is entered by descending 
from the surface about 20 feet. 

Bennington is at the meeting of the Troy 



and Boston and the Western Vermont railways, 
in the extreme south-west corner of the State. 
It is famous as the scene of the battle of Ben- 
nington (August 16,1777), in which a detachment 
of the enemy's forces, ^uder Gen. Burgoyne, 
was terribly beaten by the Green Mountain Boys, 
led by the intrepid Major Stark. It was upon 
the occasion of this memorable engagement that 
Stark is reported to have made the famous ad- 
dress to his troops : " See there, men I there are 
the red coats ! Before to-night they are ours, or 
Molly Stark will be a widow !" Two pieces of 
artillery, taken in the battle of Bennington, 
were, until recently, preserved in the Capitol at 
Montpeliex". The manufactories of the United 
States Pottery Coinpany at Bennington are well 
deserving of a visit. Fine porcelain and Parian 
ware are made here, the vicinage yielding the 
necessary materials in abundant and excellent 
supply. The landscape about Bennington is not 
of especial attraction. 

"Willoug-liTDy Lake is a popular resort in 
Orleans County, Vermont, lying upon the Canada 
line. This lake is a beautiful water, nearly five 
miles long. It lies upon the great railway route 
from Boston, via St. Johnsburj', to Canada, leav- 
ing the Connecticut Valley route at Wells River. 

Lake Memphremagogr is 30 miles long, 
and froni one to four in breadth. About eight 
miles only of its waters are in Vermont, the rest 
lying in Canada. It unites its waters, by Magog 
outlet, with those of the St. Francis river, in 
Canada. 

For Mount Ascutney, Windsor, Bellows' Falls, 
Brattleboro', and other scenes and places in 
Vermont, on and near the Connecticut River, 
see route through that region. 



NEW YORK. 

New Tokk is very appositely called the Empire State ; being the first in the confederacy in 
population, first in wealth, and in commercial importance ; exceeded by none in soil and climate, 
unsurpassed in the variety and beauty of her natural scenery, and in her historical associations. 

The earliest settlements here were made by the Dutch, at Fort Orange, now called Albany, and 
at New Amsterdam, now New Tork City. This was in 1614, seven years after the voyage of Hen- 
drick Hudson up the waters of that river wftch now bears his name. 

In 1664, the colony fell into the possession of the English — was recaptured by the Dutch in 
1673, and finally came again under British rule in 1674 — and so continued until the period of the 
Revolution. Many stirring events transpired within this territory during the wars between France 
and England, in 1690, 1702, and 1744, and through all the years of the War of Independence. Of 
these events the traveller will find some chronicle as we reach the various locations where they 
transpired, hereafter, in the course of our proposed travels. 

Every variety of surface and every character of physical aspect is found within the great area 



NEW YORK. 



75 



of New York ; vast fertile plains and grand mountain ranges ; meadows of richest verdure, and 
wild forest tracts ; lakes innumerable and of infinite variety in size and beauty ; waterfalls une- 
qualled in the world in extent and grandeur ; and rivers matchless in picturesque charms. Wo 
need not now catalogue these wonders, as our rambles will afl'ord us, by and by, abundant oppor- 
tunity to see them all in turn and time— the peaks and gorges of the Adirondacks and the Cats- 
kills— the floods of Niagara and the ravines of Trenton ; the pure waters of Lake George, the 
mountain shores of Champlain, the deer-filled wildernesses and the Highland passes of the Hud- 
son, and all the intricate reticulation of cities, towns, villages, villas, and watering-places. 



KAILWATS IN NEW YORK. 

See index for description of the routes. 

The New York and Erie, 459 miles through 
the State, from the city of New York to Dun- 
kirk, or 422 to Buflalo (Branch) on Lake Erie. 
A route to the far west. 

The Hudson River Railway, 146 miles to Al- 
bany, or 152 to Troy, along the banks of the 
Hudson River, from New York City. 

The Harlem Railway, 154 miles from New 
York to Albany. 

New York Central, from Albany to Bufl^alo, 
398 miles, or to Niagara Falls, 327 miles— unites 
eastward with the Western Railway from Bos- 
ton, and with the Hudson River and Harlem 
roads from New York and at the western ex- 
tremity, with routes for the Mississippi regions. 

Rensselaer and Saratoga, and Saratoga and 
Whitehall. From Troy to Saratoga Springs, 32 
miles ; to Whitehall, 72 miles. 

Troy and Boston, and Albany and Rutland 
railways. 

Montreal and New York, and Plattsburg and 
Montreal railways, 62 miles from Plattsburg, on 
Lake Champlain, to Montreal, Canada. 

Northern (Ogdensburg) Railway, across the 
northern part of the State, 118 miles, from Rouse's 
Point, on Lake Champlain, to Ogdensburg on 
the St. Lawrence. 

Black River and Utioa Railway, 35 miles from 
TJtica, on the New York Central Road to Boon- 
ville. 

Watertown and Rome, 97 miles from Rome on 
the New York Central, to Cape Vincent, on Lake 
Ontario. 

Potsdam and Watertown, from Watertown 
junction (Watertown and Potsdam Road) to 
Potsdam on the Northern (Ogdensburg) Railway. 

Newburgh Branch of New York and Erie 
Railwaj'' ; from Newburgh on the Hudson, to 
©hester. New York and Erie Railway. 

Oswego and Syracuse ; 35 miles from Syra- 
cuse, New York Central Road, to Oswego, Lake 
Ontario. 

Syracuse and Southern ; 80 miles from Bing- 
hamton (Erie Railway) to Syracuse (New York 
Central Railway), 



Oswego (New York and Erie Railway), 35 
miles to Ithaca, on Cayuga Lake. 

Elmira, Canandaigua and Niagara Falls ; 168 
miles from Elmira (Erie Railway), to Suspension 
Bridge, Niagara. 

Bufialo, Corning and New York ; from Corning 
(Erie Railway), 100 miles to Batavia, or 94 milea 
to Rochester (New York Central Road). 

Williamsport and Elmira ; 78 miles from El- 
mira (Erie Railway), so'-th to Williamsport, Pa. 

Corning and Blossburg and Tioga ; 41 miles 
from Corning (Erie RailwajO to Blossburg, Pa. 

Lake Shore Railway, from Buffalo, via Dira- 
Idrk, by the shore of Lake Erie, to Cleveland, 
Ohio, and westward. 

Hudson and Boston ; from Hudson, on the 
Hudson River, eastward, to West Stockbridge, 
34 miles. 

Western Railway ; from Albany, 200 mUes, to 
Boston. 

New York and New Haven ; 75 miles, from 
New York to New Haven, Ct,, thence to Boston, 
etc. 

Long Island Railway; 95 miles from Now 
York (Brooklyn Ferry), through the entire 
length of Long Island, to Greenport. 



THE CITY OF NEW YORK. 

Hotels. The Astor House, in Broadway, oppo- 
site the Park, is the only leading hotel left in 
the lower part of the city. The St. Nicholas, 
one of the most splendid of all the hotels con- 
structed in New York, is in Broadway, between 
Broome and Spring streets. The Metropolitan 
Hotel, corner of Broadway and Prince — in the 
rear of this hotel is Niblo's Theatre. The Fifth 
Avenue Hotel is a palatial marble edifice, of the 
most imposing extent and of the highest fashion. 
It covers the ground between 23d and 24th streets 
on Fifth Avenue, at its intersection with Broad- 
way — opposite Madison square. Rariidly as the 
large hotels have been creeping "up town" of 
late, the "Fifth Avenue" outstrips all other 
strides, and stands now higher up on the island 
than any of its competitors. The Prescott House 
is on Broadway and Spring street. The La- 



76 



NEW TOEE. 



farge House is a largo hotel of the highest class.' 
It has an imposing faf ade of white marble upon 
Broadway, between Bond and Amity streets. 
The " Winter Garden " Theatre is in the rear, 
■with entrance on Bro.adwaj-, through the hotel 
edifice. The New Yorlv Hotel is one of the 
largest and most fashionable in the city.' It is 
" up town," on Broadway, extending from Wash- 
ington to Waverley Place. The St. Dennis, cor- 
ner of Broadway and Eleventh street, of unique 
architecture, is one of the best appointed and 
most fashionable houses in the city. Union 
Place Hotel is an elegant estabhshment upon the 
corner of Broadway and Union Square. In 
front, northward, is the bronze equestrian statue 
of Washington, erected July 4th, 1S56, the Union 
Park and fountain. The Everett House, erected 
■within the past few years, is an imposing, orna- 
mented brick edifice fronting on Pourth Avenue 
and the north line of Union Square. It is di- 
rectly across, opposite the Union Place Hotel. 
It has both table d'hote and restaurant. The 
Clarendon is yet higher up, on Fourth avenue, 
corner of Eighteenth street. It is a recherche 
house of high fashion, in especial favor with 
English travellers. The Brevoort House, Fifth 
Avenue and Clinton Place, and the St. Germain, 
Fifth Avenue and Broadway, and Twenty-second 
street, are new up-town hotels of the highest 
rank. They are, like the Everett House, con- 
ducted on the European plan, with both table 
d'hote and cafe, rooms and board, or either alone. 
The JuUan, in Washington Place, near Broad- 
way, is a fashionable hotel and boarding-house. 

There are, besides, very many most excellent 
hotels, and hundreds of the second and third 
class— but we have mentioned enough for all the 
uses of the traveller. 

Supposing our traveller to be at home in ISTew 
York, or a stranger already comfortably lodged 
at his hotel, we will (leaving it to a later moment 
to see whether or not he has got into the right 
place) gossip, for a brief while, touching the 
past of the scenes, of which we propose to show 
him the present. ^ 

The rapid growth of this great cits'— so little 
time gone by a wild, forest settlement, and now 
m.agnificent in its million people — is evidence 
enough of the mind and will of the race, which 
is now every^vhere making the once wilderness 
of the west to iilossom as the rose. Though set- 
tled by the Dutch as early as 1612, the metropol- 
itan character of New York scarcely dates back 
to the- beginning of the present century : for it 
is within the past 50 years, or less, that all its 
present municipal glories and fame have grown 
up. Not so long, indeed, for the city which now 
covers nearly the whole Island of Manhattan, 
and is running over every day into other cities, 



villages, and suburbs, •wherever it can iind vent, 
was, within a shorter period, composed in the 
small triangular area, of which the Battery is 
the apex, and Canal street the base. The City 
Hall was then built with less care, on the upper 
or north side, because that, at the time, over- 
looked, and was seen only from lanes and fields. 
To go above, or even to Canal street, (then, liter- 
ally, a c;inal), was a rural excursion ; while, to go 
below it, at this day, is to exceed the general 
down-town travel, on any hut business errands. 
Of the palatial private houses, the public struc- 
tures, the magnificent churches, the parks, and 
even the streets, in all the middle and upper 
parts of the city, no mention would have been 
made in an edition of this work twenty-five years 
ago ; which leads us to ask, what story it maybe 
necessary to tell, in the revised edition of a quar- 
ter of a century hence ! But, thinking no longer 
of past or future, let us come at once to the pres- 
ent, and see New York as it is. 

Panorama of the City. The visitoFwill 
do well to accompan}' us to the lofty outlook 
from the top of the tower of Trinity Church, in 
the lower part of Broadway. Here he can pick 
up some general idea of the topography and ex- 
tent of the City. He may go there at any time 
when the building is not in use for sacred ser- 
vice, paying the porter a fee for his guidance. 
At the landing, on a. level with the ceiling of tho 
church, a fine view is had of the beautiful inte- 
rior. At the head of another flight of stairs, the 
belfry, with its pleasant chimes, is reached. 
Here, too, is a balcony affording a fine view of 
the City ; but it is still higher up that the scene 
is spread forth in all its glory— a boundless array 
of charms, in city, and town, and village, river, 
and bay, and island, all teeming with bright and 
busy life and action. 

With this superb picture, or rather galleries of 
pictures, before him, the observer gets a better 
idea than he may, perhaps, have had before of 
one of the natural advantages -which has made 
New York the great metropolis of this wide 
country ; its noble position at the meeting of 
great w.aters, leading inland, and its unrivalled 
harbors upon the sea. 

Yonder stretches the beautiful bay— one of the 
safest and easiest of access in tho world — eight 
miles out to those great portals famous as tho 
" Narrows," which open its way to the ocean. 
The circumference of the harbor is 25 miles. 
Within which the combined navies of the world 
might lie in comfort and security. The scenery 
here is of infinite attrac'.ion, in all the protean 
shapes and effects of mingled land and water. 
Great ships and little crafts innumerable seem to 
jostle each other, and cities, and villages, and 
villas crowd the shore, from the -water's edge to 



NEW TOEK. 



77 



the bold hill-tops. The outer harbor, or the bay 
proper, extends from the Narrows to Sandy 
Hook Light, IS miles from the city. Within the 
harbor are the picturesque fortifications on Gov- 
ernor's, on Bcdlow's, and on Ellis's Islands. 
Port Columbus occupies the centre of Gover- 
nor's Island, and at its north-east point is Castio 
William, a round tower some 600 feet in circum- 
ference, and 60 feet high, ^vith three tiers of 
guns ; while at the north-west is a battery, com- 
manding the entrance to Buttermilk Channel, 
by which the island is separated from the City 
of Brooklyn. The defences on the Long Island 
shore, at the Narrows, are Forts Ilamilton, and 
Lafayette— formerly Fort Diamond. This neigh- 
borhood is a popular summer resort and resi- 
dence of the people of New York. Opposite 
these fortifications, on the Sfaten Island shore, 
separated here by the passage of the Narrows, 
about two-thirds of a mile in width, are Forts 
Tompkins and Richmond. 

Staten Island, a favorite suburban home 
of New York, and to which the Bay is indebted 
for so much of its beauty, is about six miles be- 
low the city, with which it has frequent daily 
connection. The island is 14 miles long, and 
from four to eight wide. It constitutes the coun- 
ty of Richmond, and forms the southern extrem- 
ity of the State of New York. It is separated 
from New Jersey, on the west, by Staten Island 
Sound. Richmond Hill, at the north end of the 
island, commands all the grand scenes which 
might be expected in this vicinage, at an eleva- 
tion of 307 feet above the sea. Elegant resi- 
dences cluster about these heights, and, from the 
summit, a marine telegr.aph overlooks them and 
the sea. Upon a bluff, on the east side of the is- 
land, is Prince's Bay Light House. 

City Parks and Squares. The Central 
Park is a new public domain of such grand ex- 
tent that it will, before many years, rival the 
most famous places of the kind in the world. It 
is situated in the upper part of the city, between 
the Fifth and the Eighth Avenues, East and 
West, and 59th and 110th streets, South and 
North — a noble area of 843 acres, extending 2-} 
miles in length by -J a mile in breadth. Millions 
were expended in the purchase of the ground, 
and millions more will soon have been generous- 
ly laid out in embellishing it. The work of im- 
provement — with the help of an army of 3,000 la- 
borers—went on so fast and so magically, that the 
avenues, and drives, and walks, hills and dales, 
and lawns and lakes, already make it a very pop- 
ular resort. In the winter time its frozen ponds 
are covered with myriads of rollicking skaters, 
many of whom are of the beau sex. Access— 
(direct) by the city railways — the 3d, 6th, 8th, 
Broadway, or Tth avenue roads — fare, 6 cents. 



The Battery, which contains about 11 acres, 
is situated at the extreme south end of the City, 
at the commencement of Broadway, and is plant- 
ed with trees and laid out in gravel walks. From 
this place is a delightful view of the harbor and 
its islands, of the numerous vessels arriving and 
deisarting, of the adjacent shores of New Jersey, 
and of Staten and Long Islands. Castle Garden, 
on the Battery, was at one time a popular public 
hall. Here Jenny Lind first sang in America. 
Here, too, the fairs of the American Institute 
were once held. It is given over now to the Em- 
igr.ant OiHce for a receptacle of the debarking 
foreign popttlations. 

The Bowling: Green, situated near the 
Battery, and at the commencement of Broadway, 
is of an oval form, and surrounded by an iron 
railing. Within its enclosure is a fountain, the 
water of which falls in pleasant whispers, to the 
dusty streets, of the freshness and beauty of 
forcst-wilds. 

The Park is a triangular enclosure in the 
lower part of the city ; it has an area of 11 acres, 
containing the City Hall and other buildings. 

St. John's Park. Small but beautiful 
grounds in Hudson street, belonging to the ves- 
try of Trinity Church. St. John's Church, a 
Chapel of Trinity, is on the east side of the 
square. 

■Washington Square is a pleasant up- 
town park, a little west of Broadway, with the 
elegant private residences of Waverley Place and 
Fourth street on the north and south sides, and 
upon the east the grand marble edifice of the 
New York University, and Dr. Hutton's beau- 
tiful Gothic church. A superb fountain occupies 
the centre of these grounds. 

TJnion Park, a most charming bit of wood 
and lawn, is in Union Square, at the bend in the 
upper part of Broadway, extending from Four- 
teenth to Seventeenth streets. On the south-east 
corner of Union Square is the Union Place Hotel 
and the fine bronze equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington, by Henry K. Brown. On the upper side 
is the Everett House, and, near by, the Claren- 
don Hotel. Upon the west is Dr. Cheever's 
" Church of the Puritans." 

G-ramercy Park is a little to the north-east 
of Union Square, a charnaing ground, belonging 
to the owners of the elegant private homes 
around it. 

Stuyvesant Park is divided in the centre 
by the passage of the Second Avenue. It extends 
from Fifteenth to Seventeenth streets. The 
Saint George's Church (Rev, Dr. Tyng) is upon 
the west side of this park. 

Tompkins Square, one of the largest parks 
of New York, is between Avenues A and B, and 
Seventh and Tenth streets. 



78 



NEW YORK. 



Madison Square is up town, just above 
the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue 
at Twenty-third street. 

Hamilton Square, newer ground, etill 
above. 

PUBLIC BUILDIlsrGS-MUNICIPAL. 

The City Hall is an imposing edifice; the 
south front is built of marble, and the rear, or 
north side, of Nyack freestone. It was con- 
structed between the years 1803 and ISIO. It 
occupies the centre of the Park, in the lower 
part of the city, and is surrounded by other city 
offices. It is at present proposed to enlarge it 
very greatly. In this building are twenty-eight 
ofBccs, and other public apartments, the princi- 
pal of which is the Governor's room, appropri- 
ated to the use of that functionary on his visiting 
the city, and occasionally to that of other dis- 
tinguished individuals. The walls of this room 
are embellished with a fine collection of portraits 
of men celebrated in the civil, military, or naval 
history of the country. In the Common Council 
room is the identical chair occupied by "Washing- 
ton when President of the first American Con- 
gress, which assembled in thir citv. 

The Custom House (formerly the Exchange) 
is on "Wall street. It is built of Quincy granite, 
and is fire-proof, no wood having been used in 
its construction, except for the doors and win- 
dow frames. It is erected on the site occupied 
by the Exchange building destroyed by the 
great fire of 1835. The present one, however, 
covers the entire block, and is 200 feet long by 
ITl to 144 wide, and 124 to the top of the dome. 
Its entire cost, including the groimd, was over 
$1,800,000. 

The U. 8. Treasury (once the Custom House) is 
on Wall and Nassau streets. It is built of white 
marble, in the Doric order, similar in model to 
the Parthenon at Athens. It is 200 feet long, 90 
wide, and 80 high. The great hall for the trans- 
action of business is a circular room, 60 feet in 
diameter, surmounted by a dome, supported by 
16 Corinthian columns, 30 feet high, and having 
a skylight, through which the hall is lighted. 

The Post Office is in Nassau street, between 
Cedar and Liberty streets. The building is in 
no way remarkable for any architectural beauty, 
but merely as being one of the remnants of the 
past, having been formerly used as a church by 
one of the old Dutch congregations. 

The Hall of Justice, or " Tombs," is located in 
Centre street, between Leonard and Franklin 
streets. It is a substantial-looking building, in 
the Egj^ptian stj'le of architecture, 253 feet long 
and 200 wide, constructed of a light-colored 
granite. 



Literary Institutions and Libraries. 

Columbia College has been recently removed 
from the foot of Park Place, near Broadway, 
far up town, having resigned the old grounds 
which it has occupied for so many years. The 
extension of Park Place has already destroyed 
the ancient green lawns, and its venerable build- 
ings. Columbia College was chartered by George 
II. in 1754, under the title of King's College. 
Students, 150. Library, 16,000 vols. 

The New York University occupies a grand 
Gothic edifice of white marble, iipon the east 
side of Washington Park. This structure is a 
fine example of pointed architecture, not unlike 
that of King's College, Cambridge, England. 
The chapel — in the central building— is, vnth its 
noble window, 50 feet high and 24 feet wide, one 
of the most beautiful rooms in the counti-y. The 
whole edifice is 180 feet long. Founded in 183L 

The Free Academy, Lexington Avenue and 
23d street, up town, reached by Harlem cars or 
Fourth Avenue stages. This is a public collegiate 
academy of the highest rank. Its students are 
chosen from the pupils of the public schools 
only. The building is a fine structure, in the 
style of the town halls of the Netherlands. It 
will accommodate 1,000 pupils. 

The Cooper Union occupies a magnificent 
brown stone edifice opposite the Bible House on 
Astor Place, at the point where the union of the 
Third and Fourth avenues forms the Bowery. 
This establishment is familiarly known as the 
Cooper Institute. It was founded by the gene- 
rous munificence of Peter Cooper, Esq., an emi- 
nent merchant of New York. The building 
erected for its uses cost about 600,000 dollars. It 
is devoted to the free education of the people in 
the practical arts and sciences. It was publicly 
opened in November, 1859, with over 2,000 stu- 
dents. It contains a noble free reading-room. 
One of its departments is a School of Design for 
women. 

The General Theological Seminary of the 
Protestant Episcopal Church, is charmingly 
situated on West 20th street, between Ninth 
and Tenth Avenues. 

St. Francis Savier, 39 West 15th street. — 
Union Theological Seminarj', 9 University Place, 
just above the New York University. 

The New York Historical Society occupies a 
dainty edifice on Second Avenue, corner of 11th 
street. Its library is large and valuable ; besides 
which it possesses a fine collection of works of 
art. 

American Geographical Society has rooms in 
Clinton Hall, Astor Place. 

Lyceum of Natural History, in the building 
of the New York University Medical School, 



NEW TOEK. 



79 



14fh street near Fourth Avenue. Incorporated 
in 1S08, for scientific advancement. The Society 
possesses a largo library, and a fine cabinet of 
mineralogical specimens. 

New York Law Institute. City Hall. 

The Astor Library is a public collection of 
high order, founded by the munificence of the 
late John Jacob Astor. It numbers at present 
about 110,000 volumes. The building, on La- 
fayette Place, is one of the chief architectural 
attractioiis of the city. 

The Mercantile Library, Clinton Hall (late 
Astor Place Opera House), Eighth street, near 
Broadway. This old and popular institution has 
at present some 54,000 volumes, in every depart- 
ment of letters. Its members number between 
4,000 and 5,000. The winter courses of lectures 
before the Mercantile Library Association are 
among the greatest pleasures of the season. 

N"ew York Society Library now occupies a 
new and beautiful building in University Place, 
near 12th street. It possesses about 36,000 
books. 

Apprentices' Library (14,000 vols.), is in the 
Mechanics' Hall, Broadway, near Grand street. 

The American Institute is at present in ap.irt- 
ments on the first floor of the Cooper Institute, 
in Astor Place. The Annual Exhibitions of 
mechanic art and industry, of this Society, make 
a feature in the autumn pleasures of the metro- 
polis. 

The Mechanics' Institute has a library of about 
3,000 volumes ; 20 Fourth Avenue. 

ART SOCIETIES AND GALLERIES. 

The KTational Academy of Design— 

the chief Art institution of America — was found- 
ed in 1826, since which time it has steadily ad- 
vanced in influence and'usefolness. It numbers 
among its academicians and associates nearly all 
of the eminent artists of the city and vicinitj'. 
It supports free schools for the study of the an- 
tique and the living model ; possesses an exten- 
sive and valuable Art library • makes Annual 
Exhibitions of original works by American and 
foreign painters and sculptors, &c. The Exhi- 
bitions of the National Academy arc the great 
event of the spring season in New York. A noble 
marble edifice has just been built for the Acad- 
emy on 2od street and 4th avenue. 

Studios. In Tenth street, near the Sixth 
av., there is a spacious quadrangular edifice, 
called the Studio Building, occupied entirely by 
artists. A fine gallery, for the uses of the fra- 
ternity, fills the court. Dodworth's, 212 Fifth 
Avenue, Madison Square, is another famous lair 
of the knights of the easel, and so too is the 
University in "Washington Park. The artist 
brotherhood of New York is large and potent in 



character, both socially and professionally. Tho 
stranger or the citizen may while away pleasant 
days and weeks in exploring their lofty abodes. 

The Artists' Fund Society, founded in 1859, 
makes an Annual Exhibition and sale of works of 
art. In the months of November and December. 
The Society has yet no fixed abode. 

JFree Galleries for the exhibition and sale of 
works of Art: Schaus' Gallery, 749 Broadway; 
Goupil's, Broadway and Ninth street ; Williams', 
853 Broadway ; Snedecor's, 768 Broadway. 

The New Bible House is one of the largest 
structures in the city. It covers the entire area 
between Third and Fourth avenues on the west 
and east, and Eighth and Ninth street on the 
south and north. The printing rooms and other 
offices of the American Bible Society are here. 

The Neio York Hospital (founded in 1771) 
stands back on a lawn upon Broadway, opposite 
Pearl street. 

Medical Schools. New York University Medi- 
cal Department, 107 East Fourteenth street. 
College of Physicians and Surgeons, East Twen- 
ty-third street and Fourth Avenue. New York 
Academy of Medicine, meets the first Wednes- 
day of each month at the University. 

Institution/or the Blind, occupies a large and 
imposing Gothic edifice of granite, on Ninth av- 
enue, in the north-west part of the city. 
Reached by the Ninth and Eighth avenue 
stages. Visitors received on Tuesdays, from 1 
to 5 P. M. The institution has about one hun- 
dred pupils. 

Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Fiftieth street and 
Fourth avenue, via Harlem railroad. Visitors 
admitted from 1 to 4 P. M. The large and com- 
modious building of this Institution accommo- 
dates about two hundred and fifty pupils. 

The Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane and 
tho New York Orphan Asylum, are in the upper 
part of the Island, 7 miles from the City Hall, 
on the line of one of the pleasantest drives about 
New York. 

BlackwelVs Island, the City Penitentiary, the 
Lunatic Asylum, the Alms House, Hospital and 
Work House, on Blackwell's Island, in the East 
River, are worth the especial attention of tho 
stranger. This Island, as also Ward's and Ran- 
dall's Islands, may be reached by steamboat, 
from foot of Grand street, East River, at 12 M. 
daily; or by the Harlem stages to Sixty-first 
street. Stages leave 25 Chatham street every 
fifteen minutes. 

Ward''s and RandalVs Islands, near by, are 
occupied by the public charitable Institutions. 
The elegant and massive structures which cover 
this famous group of islands make a striking 
feature in the landscape, as we sail up the East 
River to the suburban villages on Long Island, 
or en route for Long Island Bound. 



80 



HEW TOEK. 



Churclies. Kew York has nearly 300 
churches, many of which are very costly and im- 
posing ed ifices. Among tliose most worthy the 
notice of the stranger are Trinity Church (,^pis- 
copal), in the lower part of Broadway; St. 
PauPs (Episcopal), not far off, in Broadway ; 
^S";. John's (Episcopal), In St. John's Park ; St. 
Thomas's (Episcopal), Broadway and Houston 
street; Grace C'AMrcA(Episcopal), Broadway and 
Tenth street ; Church of the Puritans, Union sq. ; 
St. Paul's (Methodist), Fourth Avenue ; Dutch 
Reformed (Dr. Hutton), "Washington Square ; 
St. Mark's (Episcopal, Dr. Anthon), Stuyvesant 
street ; St. George's (Dr. Tyng, Episcopal), East 
Sixteenth street, Stuyvesant Square ; First Bap- 
tist, corner of Broome and Elizabeth streets ; 
Amity Street, Dr. Williams (Baptist), 31 Amity ; 
Madison Av. (Baptist), Dr. Hague ; IQth Baptist, 
near Eigtith av., Rev. W. S. Mikels ; St. Patrick's 
Cathedral (R. C.), corner of Prince and Mott 
streets ; Dr. Potts' (Presbyterian), in University 
Place, corner Tenth street ; Church of the Divine 
Unity (Universalist), Dr. Chapin, 548 Broadway ; 
Church of the Messiah (Unitarian), Dr. Osgood, 
728 Broadway ; Church of All Souls (Unitarian), 
Dr. Bellows, Fourth Avenue, corner of Twentieth 
street; Church of the Holy Communion (Episco- 
pal), Dr. Muhlenburg, Sixth Avenue and Twen- 
tieth street ; Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church 
(Dr. Alexander), corner of Nineteenth street ; 
French Church (Protestant Episcopal), Dr. Ver- 
ren, corner of Church and Franklin streets ; 
Trinity Chapel (Episcopal), Twenty-sixth street, 
near Broadway ; Church of the Amumciation 
(Episcop.al), Dr. Seabury, Fourteenth street, be- 
tween Sixth and Seventh Avenues ; Church of the 
Ascension (Episcopal), J. C. Smith, Fifth Ave- 
nue, corner of Tenth street ; Shaarai Tephita 
(Gates of Prayer), Hebrew, 112 Wooster street. 

Theatres, etc. The Academy of Music, or 
Italian Opera House, is at the corner of Four- 
teenth street and Irving Place. Seats 4,600 per- 
sons. This Is one of the grandest edifices of the 
kind in the world. 

Niblo's Garden and Saloon, rear of Metropoli- 
tan Hotel, Broadway. 

Winter Garden, one of the leading theatres, is 
in the rear of the Lafarge House, 641 Broadway. 

Wallack's Theatre, another of the most popular 
establishments, is corner of Broadway and 18th st. 

The Olympic Theatre is in Broadway, between 
Bleecker and Houston streets. 

Sivadicay Theatre (formerly Wallaek's)" is at 
485 Broadway, near corner of Broome street. 

Bowery Theatre, Bowery. 

£at^num's Museum, cor. of Broad-s^-ay and Ann. 

The Croton AcLueduct, the greatest public 
work of the city, brings abundant supplies of 
water from the Croton Lake, 40 miles distant. 



The original cost of this magnificent labor was 
over thirteen millions of dollars. The Receiving 
Reservoir in the Central Park, and the great 
Distributing Reservoir in Fifth Avenue bet. 40th 
and 42d fits., are well worth seeing. 

Hig'h Bridge is a i.oblc work, constructed 
for the passage of tlic Croton Aqueduct over the 
Harlem River, from Westchester County to the 
Island of New York. The High Bridge may be 
lileasantly reached by the Third Avenue cars or 
the Harlem Railway (Fourth Avenue) to Harlem, 
and thence up the^ Harlem River a mile or two 
in excursion steamboats. Fare, 6 cents on the 
boats— same on the cars. 

The New Arsenal, which takes the place of 
the old edifice now within the Central Park grounds, 
is on the Seventh Avenue. It may be reached by 
the Sixth Avenue or the Broadway railroads. 

FIRST-CLASS BUSINESS HOUSES. 

Banking House. Duncan, Sherman & Co., 
cor. Pine and Nassau. Travellers desiring let- 
ters of credit will find this house a good one. 

Newspapers. The magnificent printing estab- 
lishments of the New York Herald, the Times 
and the Tribune are well worth seeing. 

Publishing Houses. The palatial edifice, oc- 
picd by the Appletons, 443 and 445 Broadway, 
and the wonderful establishment of the Harpers 
in Franklin Sq., will, each, well reward a visit. 

Jeicellers. See the world of rich treasures of 
Tifi'any & Co., 550 Broadway, and of Ball, Black 

6 Co., cor. of Broadwajf and Prince st. 

Dry Goods. Explore the great dry goods 
palaces of A. T. Stewart & Co., Broadway, and 
of Lord & Taylor, 461 Broadway and Grand st. 

Pianofortes. Steinway & Sons, 71 East 14th st ' 

Rubber fabrics. The N. Y. Belting and 
Packing Co., 37 and 38 Park Row. 

Life Insurance. The Guardian Life Ins. Co., 

7 Nassau st., is worth visiting, and (with its high 
character) worth using, amidst the risks of travel. 

Fire Insurance. The Home Ins. Co., 112 & 
114 Broadway, New York, is a beautiful build- 
ing, its interior arrangements most complete, 
and the company one of the best in the country. 

Clothing. Supply your wardrobes, to suit your 
most fickle fancy, at the great d6p6t of Derby 
& Co., 57 Walker St. 

Sewing Machines. Grover & Baker, 495 Broad- 
way, and Wheeler & Wilson, 625 Broadway. 

Furniture and Housekeeping Articles. J. & C. 
Berrian, 601 Broadway. A curious and interest- 
ing place. 

Art Materials and Picture Gallery. Goupil & 
Co., Broadway and 9th st. Schaus, 749 Broadway, 

Billiard Tables. Phelan & Collender. 

Stationers. Francis & Loutrell, Maiden Lane. 



NEW TOEK. 



81 



Tlie private palatial aliodes on the Fifth Avenue 
and its vicinity, sliould be seen, if one would get 
any fair idea of the architectural heauty and 
splendor of the metropolis, 

Harlem, a part of the city, at the north end 
of the Island, is upon the Harlem River. Cars 
from City Hall Harlem E. R. depots, or Third 
Avenue cars. City Hall, seven miles. 

Bloomingrdale and Manhattanville are 
at the north end of the Island of New York. 

THE EISrVIRONS OF NEW YORK. 
Places of interest in the vicinage of the city. 

Hoboken and 'Weehawken, charming 
rural resorts^n summer-time— across the Hud- 
son River, on the New Jersey shore. Here are 
delightful walks, for miles, along the margin of 
the river, on high ground, overlooking the Bay 
and city, and all the country round— in shady 
woods, and upon verdant lawns, and among wild 
forest glens. Ferrj', every few minutes (fare 
three cents), from I5arclay, Canal, Christopher, 
and West Nineteenth streets. 

Astoria, a suburban village on Long Island, 
six miles up the East River, near the famous 
whirlpool of Hell Gate, a place of beautiful vil- 
las. Steamboat, foot of Pulton street. East 
River, or by stage every hour, from 23 Chatham 
street, to foot of Eighty-sixth street — cross by 
Hell Gate Ferry. 

Staten Island. New Brigliton, Port Rich- 
mond, and Sailors'' Snug Harbor. Ferry every 
hour and a half, from S^ A. M. to 0} P. M., from 
foot of Whitehall street. To Quarantine, Staple- 
ton, and Vanderbilt's Landing, ferry every hour, 
foot of Whitehall street. Notlaing can be more 
enjoyable than a sail down the Bay to any of the 
villages and landings of Staten Island ; and noth- 
ing more agreeable thn.n the sight of its many 
suburban villas, or of the superb views over land 
and sea which its high grounds command. 
Brighton is a particularly beautiful little ^-illage, 
with good hotels and boarding-houses. Near it 
Is the Sailors' Snug Harbor, an ancient founda- 
tion for dilapidated mariners. Two miles east 
of Brighton is the Marine hospital and the 
village of Tompkinsville, and its 3,000 people. 
The voyage to Staten Island occupies about half 
an hour. 

Port Hamilton, 8 miles down the Bay, 
commands, in connection with Forts Lafayette 
and Tompkins, opposite, the ijassage seaward of 
the Narrows. A summer residence and resort 
for sea bathing. "Via boats to Coney Island. 

Coney Island, belonging to the town of 

Gravesend, is live miles long, and one broad, and 

and is situated about 12 miles from New York. 

It has a line beach fronting the ocean, and is 

4* 



much frequented, but not by ladies. On tha 
north side of the island is an hotel. Steamboats 
ply regularly between the city and Coney Island 
during the summer season. Fare, 12J cents each 
way. 

Rockaway Beach., a celebrated and fash- 
ionable watering-place on the Atlantic sea-coast, 
is in a south-east direction from New York. 
The Marine Pavilion, a splendid establishment, 
erected in 1834, upon the beach, a short d-istanoe 
from the ocean, is furnished in a stj'le befitting 
its object, as a place of resort for gay and fash- 
ionable company. There is another hotel here 
which is well kept ; also several private board- 
ing-houses, whei'e the visitor, seeking pleasure 
or health, may enjoy the invigorating ocean 
breeze, with less parade, and at a more reason- 
able cost than at the hotels. The best route to 
Rockaway is by the Long Island Railroad to 
Jamaica, twelve miles, 25 cents ; thence by 
stage eight miles, over an excellent road, to tha 
beach, 50 cents. 

Long" Branch.. — Hotels : — Tlie Metropoli- 
tan ; the Ocean House. 

Routes. Steamboats Rip Van Winkle and 
Alice Price leave foot of Robinson street, New 
York, daily (except Sunday), at 8 A. m. and 4 p. 
M., and (extra) on Saturdays at 6-^ p. sr. : connect 
at Port Monmouth with, cars on the Raritan and 
Delaware Bay R. R. 

There is admirable sport in this vicinity for 
the angler. The Shrewsbury river on the one 
side, and the ocean on the other, swarm with all 
the delicate varieties of fish with which our 
markets abound. 

Shrewsbiiry, Eed Bank, and Tinton 
Falls, in the vicinity of the above, are also 
places of great resort. 

Plushing", on Long Island, 10 miles from 
the metropolis, is upon an arm of the Sound 
called Flushing Bay. The Linna3an Botanic 
Garden is here. Boat at Fulton street. 

Flatbush, about five miles from Brooklyn, 
Flatlands, Gravesend, ten miles, are small 
but handsome places. Shores of the latter place 
abound with clams, oysters, and fowl, and are 
much resorted to. 

Jamaica, another suburban town on Long 
Island, ia 12 miles distant by the Long Island 
Railroad. 

Greenwood Cemetery is in the south pai-t 
of Brooklyn, at Gowanus, about three miles from 
New York and Brooklyn ferries. One of tho 
numerous railways which bo thickly and so con- 
veniently link all parts of Brooklyn, extends 
to the (Jemetery ; the cars leaving the Fulton 
Ferry every five minutes, and speedily trans- 
porting the traveller for the small fara of five 



82 



NEW YORK. 



cents. On Sunday, only the o-wners of lots are 
admitted within the grounds. 

This Cemetery was incorporated in 1S38, and 
contains 242 acres of ground, about one half of 
•which is covered with wood of a natural growth. 
It originally contained 172 acres, hut recently 70 
more have been added by purchase, and brought 
within the enclosure. Free entrance is allowed 
to persons on foot during week-days, but ou the 
Sabbath none but the proprietors of lots and 
their families, and ijersons with them, are ad- 
mitted ; others than proprietors can obtain a 
permit for carriages on week-days. These 
grounds have a varied sarface of hills, valleys, 
and plains. The elevations afford extensive 
views ; that from Ocean Hill, near the western 
line, presents a wide range of the ocean, with a 
portion of Long Island. Battle Hill, in the north- 
west, commands an extensive view of the cities 
of Brooklyn and New York, the Hudson River, 
the noble bay, and of New Jersey and Staten 
Island. From the other elevated grounds in the 
Cemetery there are fine prospects. Greenwood 
is traversed by winding avenues and p.aths, 
which afford visitors an opportunity of seeing 
this extensive Cemetery, if sufficient time is 
taken for the purpose. Several of the monu- 
ments, original in their design, are very beauti- 
ful, and cannot fail to attract the notice of stran- 
gers. Those to the memory of Miss Canda, of 
the Indian Princess, Dohuiunie, and the " mad 
poet," McDonald Clark, near the Sylvan Water, 
are admirable ; bo also are the memorials to the 
Pilots and to the Firemen. 

Visitors, by keeping the main avenue, called 
The Tour, as indicated by guide-boards, will ob- 
tain the best general \-iew of the Cemetery, and 
will be able again to reach the entrance without 
difficult}'. Unless this caution be observed, they 
may find themselves at a loss to discover their 
way out. By paying a little attention, however, 
to the grounds and guide-boards, they wUl soon 
be able to take other avenues, many of which 
pass through groimds of peculiar interest and 
beauty. 

The New York Bay Cemetery is reach- 
ed in a pleasant sail down the harbor. It is one 
of the moat beautiful rural spots in aU the beauti- 
ful vicinage of New York. 

Tile XT. S. Navy Yard is across the East 
River at Brooklyn. The United States Naval 
Lyceum, in the Navy Yard, is a literary institu- 
tion, formed in 1S33 by officers of the navy con- 
nected with the port. It contains a splendid 
collection of curiosities, and mineralogical and 
geological cabinets, with numerous other valu- 
able and curious things worthy the inspection 
of the visitor. A. Dry Dock has been construct- 
ed here at a cost of about $1,000,000. On the op- 



posite side of the 'Wallahout, half a mile east o'i 
the Navy Yard, is the Marine Hospital, a fine 
building, erected on a commanding situation, 
and surrounded by upwards of 30 acres of well- 
cultivated ground. 

At the Wallahout were stationed the Jersey 
and other prison-ships of the English during the 
Revolutionary war, in which it is said 11,500 
American prisoners perished, from bad air, close 
confinement, and ill-treatment. In 1S08, the 
bones of the sufferers, which had been washed 
out from the bank where they had been slightly 
buried, were collected, and deposited in 13 cof- 
fins, inscribed with the names of the 13 original 
States, and placed in a vault beneath a wooden 
building erected for the purpose, in Hudson 
Avenue, opposite to Front street, near the Navy 
Yard. 

The Atlantic Dock, about a mile below 
the South Ferry, Brooklyn, is a very extensive 
work, and worthy the attention of strangers. 
The Hamilton Avenxie Ferry, near the Battery, 
lands its passengers close by. The company was 
Incorporated in May, 1840, with a capital of 
$1,000,000. The basin within the piers contains 
42^ acres, with sufficient depth of water for the 
largest ships. The piers are furnished with 
many spacious stone warehouses. 

Jersey City. — Hotels : — American,^ a.nd U 
Montgomery street. 

Jersey City, N. J., is on the Hudson, opposite 
the City of New York, with which it is connect- 
ed by continual ferry, from foot of Cortlandt 
street (fare three cents). The present popula- 
tion is about 30,000. Jersey City is the New 
York terminus of the Philadelphia and New 
York and Erie Railroad routes, and of the Morris 
Canal. It is also the berth of the Canard line of 
Atlantic steamers. 

For Newark and other places near New York, 
upon the Philadelphia routes, see index. For 
suburban ^■illages on the Hudson, see route from 
New York to Albany. 

CITY OF BROOKLYN. 

Hotels. The Pierrepont House is an elegant 
establishment on the Heights ; the Mansion 
House is in the s.ame eligible part of the city ; 
the Globe Hotel is at 244 Fulton street. 

We have already spoken of many of the ob- 
jects of interest in Brooklyn, in the preceding 
article upon New York ; as the Navy Yard, 
Greenwood Cemetery, the Atlantic Dock, the 
neighboring Long Island villages of Astoria, 
Jamaica, Flushing, Rockaway Beach, etc. Be- 
sides these points, there is much else of interest 
across the river — many fine churches, and other 
public buildings. 



NEW TOEK. 



83 



Brooklyn possesses more than eighty church 
edifices, of various denominations. Among the 
most costly and imposing are — 

The Church of the Holy Trinity, Clinton street, 
Episcopal. 

The Church of the Pilgrims, Congregational 
(Rev. R. S. Storrs). 

The Church of the Saviour, Pierrepont st., cor. 
of Monroe, First Unitarian Congregational 
(Rev. F. A. Farley). 

Grace Church, Brooklyn Heights, Epis. (Rev. 
Jared B. Flagg). 

Christ Church, Clinton st. (Dr. Canfleld). 

Plymouth Church, Orange street (Rev. Henry 
Ward Beecher). 

First Reformed Dutch Church, Joralemon st. 
(Rev. Mr. Willets). 

First Presbyterian Church, Henry, near Clark 
street. 

Dutch Reformed Church, Pierrepont st. (Rev. 
Mr. Eolls). 

St. AnrVs Church, "Washington, near Sands 
street (Dr. Cutler). 

Second Presbyterian Church, Fulton street, 
cor. of Clinton. 

The City Hall (Court and Fulton streets), is 
one mile distant from the ferry. It is a hand- 
some building of white marble, from the West- 
chester quarries. Its length is 162 feet, and its 
height to the top of the cupola is 153 feet. Cost, 
$2,000,000. 

The Post Office is opposite the City Hall. 

The Brooklyn AthencBum, corner of Atlantic 
and Clinton streets, in South Brooklyn, is a iine 
edifice of brick, with brown stone facings. It 
has an admirable librarj', reading-rooms, and a 
spacious lecture or concert hall. 

The Lyceum, containing the city Library and a 
good lecture-room, is at the corner of Washing- 
ton and Concord streets. 

The new Academy of Music — a superb struc- 
ture, is in Montague street. 

Brooklyn, which now comprehends also the 
city of Williamsburg, is in population (which is 
no less than 270,000) the second city in the State 
of New York, though its close vicinage to the 
metropolis absorbs it, and destroys its distinctive 
importance. A great portion of its residents do 
business in New York, and live in Brooklyn only 
for the convenience and comfort of purer air, 
more quiet, and less cost. 

The city is in many parts eleg.antly built, and 
the bold position on the Heights, directly looking 
down upon the river and bay, is a charming site 
for a summer abode. Some of the avenues of 
Brooklyn are wide, and delightfully lined with 
cottage residences. 

The numerous ferries across the East river 
afford pleasant and perpetual access to Brooklyn. 



Fulton Ferry— 'From. Fulton St., N. T., to Ful- 
ton St., Brooklyn, every five minutes in the day 
time, at a fare of two cents. 

South Ferry— ¥rom Whitehall street, N. Y., 
to Atlantic st., Brooklyn. 

Hamilton Ferry — Whitehall st., N. Y., to 
Hamilton avenue and Atlantic Docks, Brooklyn. 

Catharine Ferry — Catharine st., N. Y., to 
Main st., Brooklyn. 

Jackson Ferry — From Jackson St., N. Y., to 
Bridge st., Brooklyn. 

Wall Street Ferry— WaU st., N. Y., to Monta- 
gue St., Brooklyn. 

To Brooklyn, JE. D., or Williamsburg. 
Peck Slip, Roosevelt st., Gi-rand street, and 
Houston street, N. Y., every ten minutes. 

NEW YORK TO ALBANY AND TROY. 

It is fortunate for the gratification and the cul- 
tivation of the public taste for the sublime and 
beautiful in natural scenery, when our great 
highways of travel chance to lead through such 
wondrous landscape, as does our present jour- 
ney up the Hudson River, from New York to 
Albany. Even to the wearied or the hurried 
traveller this voyage is ever one of pleasure, in 
its unique and constantly varying attractions, its 
thousand associations, legendary, historical, po- 
etical, and social. 

The Hudson received its name in honor of 
Hendrick Hudson, a Dutch navigatoi', who dis- 
covered it and ascended its waters for the first 
time, in 1607, in his good barque, the Half-Moon. 
It is also known as the North River, which 
name was given to it by the original Dutch 
colonists, to distinguish it from the South 
(Zuyd), as they called the neighboring floods of 
the Delaware. Its source is in the mountain 
region of the Adirondack, in the upper portions 
of New York, whence it flows in two small 
streams, the one from Hamilton, and the other 
from Esses County. These waters, after a jour- 
ney of 40 miles, unite in Warren County. The 
course of the Hudson varies from south by east 
to east for some distance, but at length drops 
into a straight line, and continues thus, nearly 
southward, until it falls into the Bay of New 
York. Its entire extent is about 300 miles ; its 
navigable length, from the sea to Albany, is half 
that distance. Its breadth, near the head of 
steamboat navigation, vari9s from 300 to 900 
yards ; and, at the Tappan Bay, 20 miles above 
the city of New York, it widens to the extent of 
from four to five miles. Ships of the first class 
may ascend to Hudson, a distance of 117 miles, 
and small sailing craft may reach the head of 
tide water (166 miles), at Troy. The number of 



84 



KEW YOEK. 



1 



Bteam'boats and other vessels upon the river may 
be counted by thousands. 

To the Hudson belongs the honor, not only of 
poasessing the fluest river steamers in the world, 
but of having borne upon its waters the first 
steamboat lohich ever floated, when Robert Ful- 
ton ascended the river in the Clermont, in 1807, 
exactly two centuries after the first voyage of 
Hendrick Hudson iu the Half-Moon. 

Every possible facility is now at command for. 
the passage of the Hudson, either by steamer or 
by railway, morning, noon, and night. The 
commercial traveller, thinking more of his des- 
tination than of the pleasures by the way, will 
take the railroad route, while the pleasure-seek- 
ing tourist, in quest of the picturesque, and with 
time to enjoy it, will assuredly go by water. 

RAILWAY ROUTE. 

The journey by the Hudson River Railway, 
144 miles, to Albany, is a poem in prose. The 
road lies on the eastern bank of the river, kissing 
its waters continually, and ever and anon cross- 
ing wide bays and the mouths of tributary 
streams. Incredible difficulties have been sur- 
mounted in its mountain, rock, and water pas- 
sage, and all so successfully and so thoroughly, 
that it is one of the securest railway routes in the 
world. With all its immense business, its his- 
tory' is happily free from any considerable record 
of collision or accident whatever. This is owing 
as much to the vigilant management, and the 
admirable police, as to the substantial nature of 
the road. Elag-mcn are so stationed along the 
entire line, at intervals of a mile, and at curves 
and acclivities, as to secure unbroken signal com- 
munication from one end to the other. 

Ti'ains leave Chambers street and College 
Place .almost homiy. Fare, usually, Jo. Time, 
about five hours. 

STATIOiSrS. 

(iTjr Descriptions of places and scenes, see Steam- 
boat Route following.) 

Chambers street, New York ; Thirty-first 
street, New York ; Manhattan, 8 miles from 
Kew York ; Youkcrs, 17 ; Dobb's Ferrj^, 22 
(Ferry to Piermont, Erie Railway) ; Tarrytown, 
27; Sing Sing, 32; Peekskill, 43; Garrison's 
51 (Steam Ferry to West Point and Cozzcns' 
Hotel); Cold Spring, 54; rishkiU,60(will bethe 
junction of Providence, Hartford, and Fishkill 
Railroad, Steam Ferry to Newburgh, terminus 
of Kewburgh branch of Erie Raifway) ; New 
Hamburgh, 66; Poughkeepsie, 75 (Half-way 
and refreshment station) ; Hyde Park, 81 ; Staats- 



burg, 85 ; Rhinebeok, 91 ; Barrytown, Tivoli, 
100 ; Germantown, 105 ; Oakhill, 110 (Ferry to 
Catskill village, route to Catskill Mountains); 
Hudson, 116 (Railwaj' route to Boston, via Hud- 
son and Berkshire road) ; Stockport, 120 ; Cox- 
sackie, 125 ; Stuyvcsant, 126 ; Sohodack, 133 ; 
Castleton, 136; East Albany, 144 (Ferry to Al- 
bany) ; Troy, 152 miles. 

STEAMBOAT ROUTE. 

If the traveller accompjiny us up the Hudson, 
he will take passage in one of the noble steam- 
ers (very fittingly called floating palaces), which 
leave New York every morning and night. 

The size and beauty of the boats, and the con- 
veniences, comfort, and luxury of all their ap- 
pointments, will be matter for pleasant wonder 
and thought, even to those most accustomed to 
them, whenever a moment can be stolen from 
the endless attractions on the waj'. 

We start as the morning sun is falling upon tho 
thousand sail which fill the grand Bay of New 
York ; but scarcely have our eyes taken in half 
the beauties of this superb panorama — the roofs, 
and spires, and domes of the great metropolis on 
one side, Jersey City upon the opposite shore, 
the fortresses of Governor's Island, of Bedloe's, 
of Ellis's Islands, and of Fort Hamilton ; tho 
shores of Old Long Island, and the villa banks 
of Staten Island beyoud, with the far-ofi' per- 
spective of the hill-bound " Narrows "—before 
we mttst turn our backs upon it all, to gaze upon 
tho yet more charming scenes which are present- 
ed to us as our steamer turns its prow north- 
ward. 

Along we sail, past the streets and wharves of 
the city, which seem interminable in succession, 
but our eyes fall upon the wooded shores at last, 
upon the elegant country villas peeping out from 
among the trees on the one hand, and the tall 
clifl's of the far-reaching Palisades on the other. 
The wilderness of brick and stone is behind us 
and forgotten, in the presence of green fields and 
rustling woods. Even the suburban charms of 
Hoboken, and the precipices of Weehawken, 
with its grave and memories of the unfortunate 
Hamilton, give place, in our esteem, to the more 
rural landscape upon which we now enter. Let 
us peep as closely as our mpid flight may permit 
at each passing village, city, and scene. First 
come 

The Palisades. These grand precipices, 
risiiig to the height of 500 feet, follow, in un- 
broken line, as far as that great bay of the river 
called the Tappan Sea, a distance of 20 miles. 
The rock is trap, columnar in formation, some- 
thing after the fashion of the famous Giant's 



NEW TOEK. 



85 



Causeway and of Fingal's Cave in Ireland. They 
lend great beauty to. the picture as we start upon 
our journey, and to all the pictures of the river, 
into which they come. 

Bull's Perry, six miles from the city, now 
lies upon our left. It is a favorite summer re- 
sort and residence of the people of New York. 
In the hot mouths, the ferry boats, continually 
plying thither, at a fare of only 12^ cents, are 
ever well-freighted with merry passengers. 

Blooming'dale, a suburban village five 
miles from the City Hall is now upon our right. 
The Orphan Asylum here, with its emerald 
lawns, sloping down to the quiet waters, is a 
pleasant picture for both eye and heart. 

Port Lee, ten miles up the river, and oppo- 
site 160th street, New York, now calls us back 
again to the western shore. It crowns the lofty 
brows of the Palisades. Some interesting mem- 
ories of the days of the American Revolution 
are awakened here. The anxious thoughts of 
Washington and his generals turned to this 
point in that eventfnl period. A fortification 
here stood upon the heights, which was called 
Mount Constitution, and here it was attempted, 
by the express command of Congress, to obstruct 
the navigation of the river by every art, and at 
whatever expense, " as well to prevent the egress 
of the enemy's frigates lately gone up as to hin- 
der them from receiving succors." A large force 
of Americans, in retreating from Fort Lee, were 
overpowered, and either slain or taken prisoners 
by a greatly superior body of Hessian troops. 

Port ■Washington, another spot of deep 
historical interest, lies nearly opposite to Fort 
Lee, and, like that locality, reminds us of the 
most trying hours of the trying times in Ameri- 
can story. It fell into the hands of the enemy, 
November 16th, 1776, and the garrison of 3,000 
men became prisoners of war. Two days after, 
November ISth, Lord Cornwallis, with 6,000 
men, crossed the river, at Dobb's Ferry, and at- 
tacked Fort Lee. The garrison there, then com- 
manded by General Greene, made a hasty re- 
treat to the encampment of the main army, un- 
der Washington, fi.ve miles back, at Hackensack. 
All the baggage and stores fell into the hands of 
the enemy. Had the English general followed 
up his successes at this period, with proper ce- 
lerity and energy, he would most likely have ef- 
fectu.ally crippled the American army. Fort 
Washington is situated ttpon the highest part of 
Manhattan Island, between 181st and lS6th 
streets, New York. It is between 10 and 11 
miles from the City H.all. The fort was a strong 
earthwork of irregular form, covering several 
acres. Some 20 heavy cannons, besides smaller 
arms, bristled upon its walls, though its strength 



lay chiefly in its position. The very spot where 
the old fort once stood, as well as ail the region 
round, is now covered by the peaceful and fra- 
grant lawns and gardens of elegant villa resi- 
dences. Just below the high ground once occu- 
pied by Fort Washington, and close by the river, 
is the promontory of Jeffrey's Hook : a redoubt 
was constructed here as a covering to the che- 
vaux-de-frise in the channel. The banks of this 
work are still plainly to be seen. Above Fort 
Washington, and still upon the eastern side of 
the river, was Fort Tryon. The site now hcs 
between 195th and 19Sth streets. New York. 
Not far beyond, is the northern "boundary of 
Manhattan Island — the little waters, famous in 
history and story, as Spuyten Duyvel Creek 
(Spite the Devil). Hard by (217th street), was a 
redoubt of two guns called Cock Hill Fort; and 
upon Tetard's Hill, across the creek, was Fort 
Independence, a square redoubt with bastions. 

There was still another military work here, 
strengthened by the British in 1781, and named 
Fort Prince. The upper end of the island of 
New York, where wo have lingered so long, is 
rich in scenes and memories of interest ; and the 
beautiful landscape is yet embellished by abun- 
dant traces of all its ancient history. 

"STonkers. — Hotels : — Geiiy House. 

Yonkers, 17 miles up the river, is an ancient 
settlement at the mouth of the Neperan, or Saw 
Mill River. Since the opening of the railway, it 
has become a fashionable suburban town of New 
York, us the short distance thence permits pleas- 
ant, and speedy, and cheap trsnsport by land or 
water. 

Yonkers was the home of the once famous 
family of the Phiilippses, of whicli was Mary Phil- 
lippse, the flrst-love of General Washington. The 
family exercised manorial rule in the negihbor- 
hood, and their ancient mansion is still to be seen. 

East of the manor-house of the Phiilippses, is 
Locust Hill, where the American troops were 
encamped, in 1781. Near the village is the spot 
where Colonel Gist was attacked (1778) by a 
combined force under Tarleton and others. In 
1777, anaval action occurred in front of Yonkers, 
between the American gim-boats and the British 
frigates, Ross and Phcenix. 

Mr. Frederic Cozzens, the writer, resides at 
Yonkers, and some pleasant reminiscences of his 
home may be found in his genial " Sparrow- 
grass" papers. 

Pont Hill— Academy of Mount St. 
Vincent. The "Castle" of Mr. Edwin For- 
rest, known as Fonthill, is just below Yonkers. 
It is now, together with a larger and more im- 



86 



NEW TOEK. 



posing edifice, owned and occupied by the B. C. 
School of Mt. St. Vincent. 

Hastings, three miles north of Tonkers, is 
a thriving little village, and its fortunes are daily 
improving with the favors of the citizens of New 
York, who eagerly seek homes amidst its pleas- 
ant and healthful places. Some of the country 
Beats in the neighborhood— and they are numerous 
— are very elegant and luxurious establishments. 

Dobb's Ferry, two miles yet beyond, and 
still upon the eastern bank of the river, is an an- 
cient settlement, with a new leaven of metropol- 
-itan life, like all the places within an hour or 
two's journey from New York. The village has 
a pleasant air, lying along the river slope, at the 
mouth of the Wisquaqua Creek. Its name is 
that of an old family which once possessed the 
region and established a ferry. "We are led back 
again here, to the times of the Revolution, and 
especially to that dramatic episode — some of the 
scenes of which transpired here and hereabouts 
— the story of Arnold and Andre. Remains of 
military work still exist at Dobb's Ferry. 

Irvington and "Sunnyside." Irving- 
ton, to which we now come, still on the right or 
eastern bank, was 'once called Dearman, and it 
was expected to grow into a large town, as an 
outlet of the Great Erie Railway, which touches 
the river opposite, at Piermont ; but the Erie 
travel was afterwards led to the metropolis 
through another terminus at Jersey' City, and so 
Irvington is little more than a railway station to 
this day. 

Dearman was rechristened Irvington in honor 
of the late beloved author, Washington Irving, 
whose unique little cottage of Sunntside is close 
by upon the margin of the river, hidden from 
the eye of the traveller only by the dense growth 
of the surrounding trees and shrubbery. 

Piermont is on the left or western bank of 
the widest part of the lludson, called the Tap- 
pan Bay or Sea, in the heart of which we are 
now sailing. It was born of, and has grown up 
from, the business of the Erie Railway, of which 
it is the terminus, and was once the only eastern 
terminus, the route of the road having original- 
ly been entirely continued, as it is now in part, 
thence down the Hudson to New York. The 
river here is three miles in width, and the shores, 
particularly upon the west, are so varied and bold, 
as to present most striking and attractive pic- 
tures. Piermont, rising from the water's edge 
to the villa-crowned summits of lofty hills, and 
with its grand railway pier reaching out a mile 
or more into the river, is not one of the least 
pleasing features of the scenery of the Tappan 
Bay. 

Mr. Lewis Gaylord Clark, editor of the 
" Enickerbocker Magazine," Uves upon the emi- 



nence here, in a little house, which he calls " Ce- 
dar Hill Cottage." 

Two or three miles back of Piermont is the 
old town of Tappan, interesting as having been 
one of the chief of Washington's head-quarters 
during the Revolution ; and as the spot also 
where Major Andre was imprisoned and exe- 
cuted. The home of the commander-in-chief 
and the jail of the ill-fated officer are still in good 
preservation, though the latter house has been 
somewhat modified in its interior arrangements 
of late years, to suit its present occupancy as a 
tavern, under the style and title of the '"76 
Stone House." The old Dutch church, in which 
Andre was tried, stood near by, but it was torn 
down in 1S36, and a new structure reared upon 
its site. The spot where the execution took 
place (October 2d, 1780) is within a little walk 
of the old Stone House, in which the prisoner 
was confined. 

Nyack is the next village above Piermont, 
and upon the same side of the river, while Tar- 
rytown lies directly opposite it, and is connected 
therewith, and with New York, by a steam-ferry. 
Beds of red sandstone were once industriously 
quarried at Nyack. 

Tarry town. — Hotels -.—The Franklin 

House. 

Tarrytown is a very active, prosperous little 
place on the eastern bank of the Hudson. It has 
many attractions, historical, pictorial, and social. 
Elegant villas, chiefly occupied by New York 
gentlemen, having gathered thicldy around it, as 
about all this part of the river's marge, within 
the past few years ; among them is the Irving 
homestead of Sunnyside, at Irvington, two miles 
below, and a mile or more distant, in the oppo- 
site direction, is the quiet little valley of Sleepy 
Hollow, which he has wreathed with such a 
gai-land of poetic remembrances and fancy, 
through his charming legends and tales. The 
visitor at Tarrytown will neglect many things 
before he denies himself the pleasure of a stroll 
to Sleepy Hollow, where Diedrich Knickerbock- 
er roamed and meditated in days gone by ; and 
of a walk by the Pocantico, and across the 
bridge, over which Ichabod Crane was pursued 
by the Headless Horseman. The scenes are all 
there still ; and so the old Dutch church, to 
which the luckless pedagogue fled for sanctu- 
ary. 

During the Revolution, Tarrytown witnessed 
many stormy fights between those lawless ma- 
rauding bands of both British and Americans, 
known as skinners and Cow-boys. The ground 
suited their wants, as it lay between the encamp- 
ments of the two armies, and was in possession 



NEW YORK. 



87 



of neither. It was upon a Bpot, now in the heart 
of TarrytowD, that Major Andr6 was arrested, 
■while returning to the British lines, after a visit 
to General Arnold. A simple monument — an 
obelisk of granite — now occupies the ground. 

Sing* Sing:. — Hotels ■.—American House. 

Sing Sing, on the right as we ascend, is 33 
miles from the city. In its acclivitous topogra- 
phy, upon a hill-slope of 200 feet, it makes a fine 
appearance from the water. The greatest breadth 
of the Hudson, nearly four miles, is at this point. 
Many fine country seats crown the heights of 
this pleasant village. It is distinguished for its 
educational establishments ; for its vicinage to 
the mouth of the Croton river, from whence the 
city of New York derives its abundant supply of 
water ; and for being the seat of the chief prison 
of the State. 

The Croton enters the Hudson two miles above 
the village, where its artificial passage to the me- 
tropolis is begun. The great aqueduct at this 
point is especially interesting, being carried over 
the Sing Sing Kill by an arch of stone masonry 
88 feet between the abutments, and 100 feet 
above the water. The State Prison, which no 
visitor will fail to see, is located on the bank of 
the Hudson, nearly three-quarters of a mile 
south of the village. The buildings are large 
structures, erected by the convicts themselves, 
with material from the marble and limestone 
quarries which abound hero, and which many of 
them are continually employed in working. TThe 
prisons form three sides of a square. The main 
edifice is 484 feet long, 44 feet wide, and 5 stories 
high, with colls for 1,000 occupants, 869 of which 
were filled in 1852. The female prisoners are 
lodged in a fine edifice, some 30 or 40 rods east of 
the male departments. The prisoners ai-e guard- 
ed by sentinels, instead of being enclosed by 
walls. The whole area covered by the estab- 
lishment is 130 acres of ground. The railway 
passes through and beneath the prisons, but from 
the river they are all seen to advantage. The 
convicts not employed in w^orking the marble 
quarries are engaged in the pursuit of various 
mechanical arts and trades. Sing Sing is a bust- 
ling business town. Its population over 3,000. 
Though the river communication with New 
York is not so great since as before the building 
of the railroad, way-steamboats from the city 
yet touch here daily. 

Verdritege's Hook, opposite Sing Sing, 
is a commanding height, with such a deceptive 
appearance from the water above and below of a 
grand headland, that it has been christened 
Point-no-Point. Coming near it, its promontory 
look entirely disappears, and it proves to be only. 



as we onco called it elsewhere, a topographical 

will-o'-the-wisp. 

Upon this mountain summit there is a charm- 
ing pellucid water called Rockland Liake. 
It is about four miles in circumference, and 
forms the source of the Hackensaok River. 
Though not more than a mile from the Hudson, 
it is yet 250 feet above it. It is from this crystal 
lake that New York gets its best supplies of ice, 
which is cut into large square blocks. These 
blocks are then slid down to the level of tho 
river, and when the winter passes they are trans- 
ported to the city. Every voyager will bestow a 
pleasant thought upon the Rockland Lake, as he 
passes, in gratitude for the cooling beverages it 
gives him in the hot summer months, be that 
beverage julep, cobbler, cocktail, or Croton. 

Haverstraw is also on the west side of the 
river, 36 miles up. It is a pleasant and prosper- 
ous place, of much picturesque vicinage. Some 
charming brooks, upon which artists delight to 
study, come into the Hudson here. "We touch 
now again upon sacred ground, as we reenter 
amidst the scenes of our Revolutionary history ; 
for directly opposite is Verplanck's Point, and 
in the immediate vicinity is the famous battle- 
ground of Stony Point. 

Verplanck's Point, on the east side of the 
Hudson, is the spot at which Hendrick Hudson's 
ship, the Half-Moon, first came to anchor, after 
leaving the mouth of the river. Great was the 
marvel and terror of the astonished natives at 
that extraordinary event. " Filled with won- 
der," says Lossing, "they came flocking to the 
ship in boats, but their curiosity ended in a 
tragedy. One of them, overcome by acquisi- 
tiveness, crawled up the rudder, entered the 
cabin window, and stole a pillow and a few arti- 
cles of wearing ajsparel. The mate saw tho 
thief pulling his bark for land, and shot at and 
killed him. Tho ship's boat was sent for the 
stolen articles, and when one of the natives, who 
had leaped into the water, caught hold of the 
side of the shallop, his hand was cut off by a 
sword, and he was drowned. This was the first 
blood shed by these voyagers. Intelligence of it 
spread over the country, and the Indians hated 
the white man ever after." The creek which 
winds through the marsh, south of Verplanck's 
Point, as, aftei-wards, the peninsula itself, waa 
called Meahagh by the Indians. Stephen Van 
Cortlandt purchased it of them in 1683, and it 
passed from his possession into that of his son, 
whose only daughter and heiress married Philip 
Verplanck, from whom its present name. Topo- 
graphically, Verplanck's Point may be described 
as a peninsula, gradually rising from a gentle 
surface, until it terminates in the river in a bold 
bluflr of from 40 to 50 feet erevation. The rail- 



88 



NEW TOEK. 



way recedes herefrom the river-shore, and takes 
a seemingly inland route across the neck of the 
peninsula. "Here," says Mr. Lossing, in his 
Field- Book, from -whicla we have already quoted, 
" during the memorable season of land and town 
speculation, when the water-lot mania emulated 
that of the tulip and tlie South Sea games, a 
large village was mapped out, and or.e or two 
fine mansions were erected. The bubble burst, 
and many fertile acres there, where corn and 
potatoes once yielded a profit to the cultivator, 
are scarred and. made barren by intersecting 
ftreets, not de-populated, but ««-populated,save 
by the beetle and the grasshopper." 

The narrowness of the river between this 
bluff and the opposite promontory of Stony 
Point, makes it the lower gateway of the Hud- 
son Highlands, and renders it easily defensible 
against any possible hostile force. A small for- 
tifloation, called Fort Fayette, once existed at 
the western extremity of Verplanck's Point, 
many remains of which are yet distinctly visi- 
ble. This fort, and that of Stony Point opposite, 
were taken by tlie English, under Sir Henry 
Clinton, June 1, 1779. The garrisons at the time 
consisted, respectively, of only 70 and 40 men. 
Sir Henry Clinton immediately proceeded to 
strengthen his new possessions, while "Washing- 
ton was meditating their recapture, as tlie pas- 
sage which they controlled was important to the 
free communication between the northern and 
Boutliern portions of his army. "We must now 
hjok across to 

Stony Point. — The old lighthouse here calls 
this scene loudly to the notice of all passers. 
The beacon is placed amidst the remains of the 
ancient fort, and exactly upon the former site 
of the magazme. As we have said, the fort here, 
together with that upon Vei-planck's Point oppo- 
site, fell into the hands of the enemy on the 1st 
of June, 1779. Despite is natural defences, and 
the additional strengtli which the enemy indus- 
triously gave it, the Americans determined to 
regain their lost possession. General "Wayne, 
who was to command the proposed assault, is 
reported to have said to "Washington, with daring 
emphasis, apropos of the dangers before him in 
this perilous venture : " General, I'll storm hell, 
if !/o!t will only plan it 1 " He did storm Stony 
Point on the night of July 15th, 1779, and next 
day he wrote to the commander-in-chief that the 
fort and garrison were liis I It was a gallant ex- 
ploit, and we wish we had the opportunity to 
review the whole story ; but there are many 
miles yet between us and Albany, and we must 
move on to 

Peekskill.— Hotels :— Tke Eagle 



"We now enter Haverstraw Bay, the second of 
the great extensions of the Hudson, and the 
commencement of the magnificent scenery of 
the Highlands. On our left is the rugged front 
of the Dunderburg Mountain, at whose base the 
little hamlet and landing of Caldwell are nestled ; 
on the right, the village of Peekskill ascends 
from the shore to the lof'y hill summit, and be- 
fore us is the narrow passage of the river, around 
the point of the Dunderburg, the grand base of 
Anthony's Kose, and other mountain clifls and 
precipices. Let us look a moment, before wo 
pass on, at Peekskill and its memories. The 
village was named after John Peek, one of the 
early Dutch navigators, who mistook the creek 
which comes into the river just above for the 
continuation of thc'Hudson itself (not an unrea- 
sonable mistake, bo uncertain seems its direction 
at this highland pass), and thus thinking him- 
self at the end of his journey, ran his craft 
ashore, and commenced his settlement. The 
present village was first settled in 1764. Its po- 
sition is exceedingly picturesque. A romantic 
brook comes down a deep glen in the centre of 
the town, as it descends from the elevated pla- 
teau to the river, disfigured not a little at this 
day by the houses and foundries near it. 

Noble views may be found everywhere here, 
and in every direction, of the river and tine sur- 
rounding country. From Gallows Hill north- 
ward (so called in remembrance of the execution 
there of a spy in the days of the Revolution), a 
grand panorama is exposed. Here, to the west, 
overlooking the village, the river, and its moun- 
tain shores ; there, southward, hill and valley, as 
far as the high grounds of Tarrytown below ; 
and above, the Caiiopus vallej', in the shadow 
of the Highland precipices. The division of the 
American army under Putnam, in 1777, was 
encamped upon Gallows Hill. Beneath this lofty 
ground, and upon the banks of Canopus Creek, 
is Continental Village, which was destroyed by 
General Tryon (Oct. 9, 1777), together with the 
barracks, capable of accommodating 2,000 men, 
and also much public store and many cattle. 

The "\'"an Cortlandt House, in this vicinage, is 
an object of interest, as the ancient seat of an an- 
cient family, and as the temporary residence of 
"Washington. Near by is a venerable church, 
erected in 1767, witliin whose grave-yard there is a 
monument to the memory of John Paulding, one 
of the captors of Major Andre. 

At the date of the first edition of this work 
(1S57) there stood, in the streets of Peekskill, 
another of those venerable roofs, sacred as hav- 
ing at one time sheltered the head of tlie Ameri- 
can chieftain. But, alas ! it has since passed 
away, as are fast passing all its fellow-shrines. 
Thus fewer and fewer is the number of such 



NEW XOEK. 



89 



spots to -whicli wo shall lie able to direct the 
traveller as the yoai-s speed on. 

A pleasant ride from Peekskill is to Lake Maho- 
pac, a fashionable summer resort for the pleasare- 
seekera of Now York. See Index. 

The population of Peekskill in 1S54 was 2,500. 
It is 43 miles from the city of New York, by 
rail. 

Caldwell's Landing-, at the foot of Dun- 
derbnrg Mountain, was a calling-place for the 
river steamers, when the chief travel was by 
water, Instead of by rail, as at the present day. 
The passengers for Peekskill, opposite, were 
then always landed at Caldwell. This spot is 
memorable for the search so seriously and ac- 
tively made for the pirate treasure which the 
famous Captain Kidd was supposed to have se- 
creted at the bottom of the river here. Remains 
of the apparatus used for this purpose are still 
seen, In bold, black relief, at the Dunderburg 
point, as the boat rounds it, towards the Horse 
Race. This Quixotic exploration has at least 
proved to a certainty that much valuable trea- 
sure now lies buried here, however uncertain the 
matter was before I 

The Highlands. This grand mountain 
group, through which the Hudson now makes its 
way, extends from north-east to south-west, over 
an area of about 16 by 25 miles. The landscape 
which these noble heights and their picturesque 
and changeful forms, present, is of unrivalled 
magnificence and beauty, whether seen from 
their rugged summits, or from the river gorges. 

Thus says Theodore Fay of these scenes — 

" By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, 
By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise 
At every turn the vision breaks upon, 
TiU to our wondering and uplifted eyes 
The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise." 

"Nor clouds in heaven, nor billows in the deep 
More graceful shapes did ever heave or roll ; 
Nor came such pictures to a painter's sleep, 
Nor beamed sucli vision on a poet's soul I 
The pent-np flood, impatient of control, 
In ages past here broke its granite bound, 
Then to the sea in broad meaudei's stole, 
"While ponderous ruin strew'd the broken ground, 
And these gigantic hills for ever closed around." 

This powerful river, says another writer, 
■writhes through the Highlands in abrupt curves, 
reminding one, when the tide runs strongly 
down, of Laocoon in the enlacing folds of the 
serpent. The different spurs of mountain 
ranges which meet hero abut upon the river in 
bold precipices, from five to fifteen hundred feet 
from the water's edge ; the foliage hangs to 
them from base to summit, with the tenacity and 
bright verdure of moss ; and the stream below, 
deprived of the slant lights 'which brighten its 



depths elsewhere, flows on with a sombre and 
dark-green shadow in its bosom, as if frowning 
at the narrow gorge into which its broad-breast- 
ed waters are driven. 

Passing round the point of Dunderburg (or 
Donderbarrack, the Tliunder Chamber') we en- 
ter the swift channel called the Horse Race. 
On our right, in this wild and narrow gorge of 
the giant hills, are the rugged flanks of An- 
thony's Nose— bold, rocky acclivities, which 
rise to the height of 1,128 feet above the water. 
Two miles above is the Sugar Loaf mountain, 
with an elevation of 806 fcset. Near by, and 
reaching far out into the river, is a sandy bluff, 
on which Fort Independence once stood. Fur- 
ther on is Beveridge Island, and in the extreme 
distance. Bear Mountain. Forts Clinton and 
Montgomery, taken by the British troops, after 
traversing the Dunderburg mountain, are in this 
vicinity ; and so, too, a little lake called Skinni- 
plnk, or Bloody Pond, where a disastrous skir- 
rnish occurred on the eve of the capture of the 
forts and the consequent opening to the enemy 
of the passage of the Highlands. On this (the 
west) side of the river, the Buttermilk Falls 
are seen descending over inclined ledges, a dis- 
tance of 100 feet. They form a pleasant passage 
in the river landscape, though in themselves 
they are not especially picturesque. 

In the heart of the Highland Pass and just be- 
low West Point, on the west bank, is Cozzens' 
— a spacious and elegant summer hotel, which 
comes mo.*t charmingly into the pictures of tho 
vicinage. It is accessible, as is West Point at 
the same time, from the railway on the opposite 
side of the river, by a steam ferry from Garri- 
son's Station, between Peekskill below and 
Cold Spring above. The concourse of sail some- 
times wind-locked in the angles of this mountain 
pass, is a wonderful sight. "This channel," 
saj's Mr. Willis, " is narrow and serpentine, the 
breeze baffling, and small room to beat ; but the 
little craft will work merrily and well ; and 
dodging about, as if to escape some invisible imp 
in the air, they gain point after point, till at last 
they get the Donderbarrack behind them, and 
fall once more into the regular current of the 
wind." 

Constitution Island, "with the rocky 
plateau of West Point, now bars our "view of the 
upper portion of the Highland passage. Round- 
ing it, we come into that wonderful reach of the 
river, flanked on the west by the royal cliffs of 
Cronest and Butter Hill, or Storm King, and 
upon the east by the jagged acclivities of Break- 
neck and Bull Hill, with the pretty villacre of 
Cold Spring beneath. From the heights of West 
Point delicious views of this new chapter of the 
river beauties may be obtained. Constitution 



90 



NEW TOEK. 



Island was called, prior to the Revolution, Mar- 
telear's Rock. It was fortified together "with 
"West Point, hard bj', in 1775-6, -n-hen Fort 
Constitution was built, the remains of -which 
Btill exist. Those of the magazine especially are 
■well preserved, on the highest point, near the 
western extremity of the bluft". From this 
island to West Point a chain was thrown across 
the river as an obstruction to the enemy's ships. 
Some links of this defence are yet to be seen. 

"West Point.— Hotels -.—TheWest Point, on 
the terrace, and Cozzens' below. 

West Point, both from the unrivalled charms 
of its scenery and from its position as the seat of 
our most famous military school, is one of the 
most attractive spots upon the Hudson. It is 
replete with interest, too, as the centre of the im- 
portant interests and incidents which in the days 
of the Revolution wove such a web of story and 
romance about all this portion of the beautiful 
river. 

The edifices of the United States Military 
Academj', in full view as we approach, occupy 
a noble plate.au, about a mile in circuit, and 188 
feet above the water ; and grand hills, which 
were fortified in the war time, lea\-ing at this 
day romantic ruins to embellish the landscape, 
rise hundreds of feet yet above. It was the 
same bold and varied physical aspect of this spot 
which DOW delights the lover of Nature's won- 
ders, that in other days gave it its grand value, 
and its memorable fame as a site of military ope- 
rations and achievements. The visitor will de- 
light his eye at all points, whether he gaze upon 
the superb panorama of the river as he sits upon 
the piazza of the hotel upon the plateau, or 
whether he looks upon the scene from the yet 
loftier eminence above, crowned by the ruins of 
ancient fortresses ; or whether he stroll amidst 
the interlacing walks, with new vistas of beauty 
and fresh memories of a gallant gone-by at every 
turn and step. When the remains of the old 
forts Putnam, Clinton, Webb and Wylly's have 
been seen, together with the little glen below the 
Parade Ground, called " Kosciusko's Garden," 
and embellished with an obelisk erected to the 
honor of the gallant Pole, the visitor will be 
ready to explore the edifices of the Academy es- 
tablishment, and the many objects of interest 
which they contain; among them. Revolution- 
ary relics and cannon captured in the war with 
Mexico. If his visit be in the month of July 
or August the pleasures of the place will be 
agreeably increased by the picturesque scene of 
the annual encampment, on the broad terrace, 
of the Cadets, and by the daily practice of the 
military band. If he can gain the entree of the 
studio of the distinguished painter Weir, who 
resides hero, he will be fortunate. 



The United States Military Academy at West 
PoiA was established by Congress in 1802, and 
it is entirely controlled and supported by the 
Government. The education of the Cadets is 
gratuitous, but each one is required to spend 
eight years in the public service, unless he be 
sooner excused. The course of study lasts five 
years, and embraces every theme required for a 
thorough mastcj'y of the military art. The 
graduates number more than 3,000. 

West Point, in the Revolution, was the great 
key of the river, which Arnold, then in com- 
mand of the post, would have betrayed into the 
possession of the enemy, but for the providential 
arrest of his co-plotter, Andr6, at Tarrytown 
below. 

The Robinson or Beverly House, oc- 
cupied by Arnold at the time of his meditated 
treason, at which he received intelligence of the 
arrest of Major Andre, and from whence he 
made his escape to the British vessel, the Vul- 
ture, lying near by in the river, is on the oppo- 
site (east) bank, a pleasant drive of four or iive 
miles south from Cold Spring. It is situated 
upon a fertile meadow, at the foot of the Sugar 
Loaf mountain — the lofty elevation on the east, 
which proves so Protean in form — now a bold 
cone, and now a ridgy line, as seen from below 
or from above. This homestead is now occupied 
by Lieutenant Thomas Arden, and is called 
" Ardenia." It has been kept in thorough re- 
pair, and its old aspect has been always relig- 
iously preserved. 

Cronest casts its broad evening shadow upon 
us as we continue our voyage up from West 
Point. This is one of the grandest mountains 
found in the Highland group. Its height is 
1,428 feet. From the summit, which may be 
readily reached, wonderful pictures of far and 
near are exposed to view. 

The poet, George P. Morris, has happily sung 
the beauties of these bold cliii's — 

"Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sands 
Wind through the hills afar, 
And Cronest, like a monarch stands, 
Crown' d with a single star ! " 

The tourist, as he passes this romantic ground, 
will not fail to recall the scenes and incidents of 
Drake's charming story of the Culprit Fay, with 
its classic whispers of the dainty Fairy doings 
here. 

Butter Hill, or Storm. King, as Mr. N. 
P. Willis has re-named it, is the next mountain 
crest, and the last of the Highland range upon 
the west. The jealous people on the opposite 
shore say that Butter Hill is only a corruption 
of But-a-hill I It would, though, be irreverent 
to believe in this derivation, for the Storm King, 



NEW TOEK. 



91 



•with its 1,500 and more foet of bold cliff and crag, 
is not an object to be spoken or thought lightly of. 

Between Cronest and Storm King, (if we may 
adopt Mr. Willis's nomenclature,) and in the 
laps of both, is a lovely valley, replete with forest 
and brook beauties. It is called Tempo, and 
will one day bo a Mecca to the nature-loving 
tourists. 

" Idleuiild," the residence of the poet N. P. 
Willis, is hidden from view now, only by the 
front of Butter Hill ; and were it not for the 
forest of verdure around it we might descry 
"UndercUff," the home of George P. Morris, 
near the village of Cold Spring, across the river 
on the east. 

Cold Spring and "Undercliff." Cold 
Spring is one of the most picturesque of the vil- 
lages of the Hudson, whether seen from the 
water or from the hills behind, or in detail 
amidst its little streets and villa homes. It is 
built upon a steep ascent, and behind it is the 
massive granite crown of Bull Hill. This noble 
mountain overshadows the beautiful terrace up- 
on which the poet Morris has lived in the rural 
seclusion of "TJndercliflf" for many years. It 
is scarcely possible to find a spot of sweeter 
natural attractions than the site of Underclift', 
looking over the pretty village to the castellated 
hills of West Point, across the blue Hudson to 
old Cronest, or northward beyond the Newburgh 
Bay, to the far away ranges of the Catskills. 

The West Point Iron Foundry, which is lo- 
cated here, supports much of the population and 
business of the village. 

Two miles below are the Indian Falls, a ro- 
mantic cascade, on the Indian Brook, a wild 
rocky stream which enters the river hereabouts. 

The Beverly House, memorable for its asso- 
ciations with the history of the treason of Ar- 
nold, is a few miles below. Bee previous pages 
for further mention of this locality. The popu- 
lation of Cold Spring is 1,200. Its distance from 
New York, 54 miles. 

Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the east bank 
of the river, the Highl.and range is continued in 
the jagged precipices of the Break neck, and 
Beacon Hills, in height, respectively, 1,187 and 
1,685 feet. These mountains are among the 
most commanding features of the river scenery. 
As we leave them to the south we approach Pol- 
lopel's Island, and enter the wide jSTewburgh Bay, 
with the villages of Cornwall, New Windsor and 
Newburgh upon our left, and Fishkill on our 
right, all imposingly displayed from the water. 

Cornwall Landing-, on the west bank, 
comes first to our reach. It is a rugged and 
picturesque httle place. On the lofty Highland 
Terrace back, is Canterbury, a quiet village, 
much iu favor as a summer residence by the 



seekers of repose and rural pleasure, rather than 
of fashionable display and distraction. 

"Idlewild," Mr. Willis's romantic home, 
on a lofty plateau above and north of the village, 
is the chief object of interest. A wonderful 
ravine, full of the most delightful cascades, with 
its neighborhood of hill side, rock and forest, oc- 
cupies one part of the domain, and a fertile ter- 
race sweep, upon which his cottage stands, fills 
the rest. In its multiplicity of charms, it is a re- 
treat which any poet might be content to enjoy. 

There is an extensive paper manufactory, un- 
der the conduct of Mr. Carson, just back of 
Idlewild, in the out-of-the-way little village of 
Moodua. The Moodna Ci-eek, a romantic stream, 
comes into the river at the northern point of 
Idlewild. 

New "Windsor, between Idlewild and New- 
burgh, and once the rival of the latter, is a strag- 
gling hamlet, of no special present attraction ; 
though it has some old historical memories of 
interest. The chief camp ground of the Revo- 
lutionary army, during the operations on the 
Hudson, lies back of it, with memories and 
scenes yet remaining, of the residence of Greene 
and Knox, and other distinguished generals of 
the period ; of the site of the memorable old 
building which was known as the Temple, and 
was erected at the command of Washington for 
a chapel for the army ; a hall for the free mason 
fraternity, which existed among the officers, and 
for general public assemblies. This structure 
was baptized the " Temple of Virtue," at the 
time of its erection, a name which it lost even in 
the orgies of the dedicatory festival 1 

On the shore of Plum Point, the elegant 
promontoried estate of Philip A. Verplanck, 
Esq., at the mouth of the Moodna Creek and the 
river, are preserved some curious debris of old 
military defences, and of buildings long before 
the days of the Revolution. 

Washington established his headquarters at 
New Windsor, first on June 23d, 1779, and again 
in 1780. His residence, a plain Dutch house, 
has long since passed away. 

"Cedar Lawn." Joel T. Headley, the 
distinguished author, possesses a charming river 
estate, which is called " Cedar Lawn," between 
the villages of New Windsor and Newburgh. 

Asher B. Durand, the eminent landscape 
painter, at one time possessed and occupied an 
elegant country seat in the same neighborhood. 

ITewbiirg-]!.— Hotels :— 

The Powelton is an elegant summer house, pic- 
turesquely located in the upper and more rural 
part of the village. In the business centre is the 
Orange Hotel, a large and well-ordered establish- 



92 



NEW YOEK. 



mentof old fame. Near the river landings is the 
United States. 

Newburgh, with its population of 12,000, and 
its social and topograpliical attractions, is one 
of the largest and most delightful towns on the 
Hudson. Rising, as it does, rather precipitously 
from the water to an elevation of 300 feet, it 
presents a very imposing front to the voyager. 
The higher grounds are occupied by beautiful 
residences, and the luxurious villas of gentle- 
men retired from metropolitan life. There 
are a dozen churches here, three banks, five 
newspapers, one a daily. Newburgh is the east- 
ern terminus of a branch of the Erie Railway, 
connecting daily with that great thorough 
fare at Chester, IST. T. It is united by steam 
ferry to Fishldll, on the opposite shore, and here 
is its station on the Hudson River, and Hartford, 
Providence, and Fishljill Railroads. It has large 
manufactories of various kinds, and an extensive 
trade in farm and dairy products. The home 
of the lamented landscape gardener and horti- 
cultural writer, A. J. Downing, was here. The 
village, too, is honored by the residence of H. K. 
Brown, the eminent sculptor. 

Newburgh was the theatre of many interesting 
events in the Avar of the Revolution. It was the 
site of one of "Washington's cliief headquarters, 
and the house in which he lived is now the prin- 
cipal boast of the town. It occupies a bold po- 
sition, overlooking the great pass of the High- 
lands. It was here that the Revolutionary army 
was finaliy disbanded at the close of the war, 
June 23d, 17S3. 

Fishkill Landing-, on the eastern shore, 
opposite Newburgh, is, like that village and all 
the region round, opulent in natural beauties, 
and iirolifio in elegant residences of retired city 
gentlemen. It is a small place, with a popula- 
tion, in 1854, of 1,600. It lies in the lap of a 
lovely fertile plain, which reaches far back to 
the base of a bold mountain range. It is, like 
all the neighborhood, replete with memories of 
Revolutionary and Ante-revolutionary interest. 
A portion of the Continental army was encamped 
here. The building occupied as barracks was 
the property of a Mr. "Wharton, and has thence 
been since known as the "Wharton House. It is, 
like most of the buildings of the period, a plain, 
Dutch, wooden construction. It may be fomid 
about half a mile south of the villace. 

Fishkill is the scene of m,any of the incidents 
in Cooper's novel of The Spy : a Tale of the 
Neutral Ground. Enoch Crosby, who was sup- 
posed to be the actual character represented in 
Mr. Cooper's tale as H.arvey Birch, was subject- 
ed to a mock trial before the Committee of Safe- 
ty in the "Wharton House, mentioned above. 

Two miles north-east of Eishkill landing is 



the Verplanck House, interesting as having once 
been the head quarters of the Baron Steuben, 
and the place in which the famous Society of the 
Cincinnati was organized, 1783. 

Low Point, three miles above Eishkill landing 
is a small river hamlet. 

New Hamburg comes next, near the mouth of 
"Wappiuger's Creek, and a little north is the vil- 
lage of Marlborough, with Barnegat, famous for 
its Hme-ldlns, two miles yet beyond. 

Poughkeepsie.— Hotels -.—Gregory House. 

Roughkeepsie is 75 miles from New York, 
and thus the halfway station on the river rail- 
road. It is a pleasant city, and the largest place 
between New York and Albany. Its popula- 
tion is some 15,000. It contains about sixteen 
churches, four banks, and three or four news- 
papers. It has a variety of manufactories ; and 
the rich agricultural region behind it makes 
it the depot of a busy trade. 

College Hill, the site of the Collegiate Insti- 
tute, half a mile north-east, is a commanding 
elevation, overlooking the river and the region 
around. 

Poughkeepsie was formded by the Dutch more 
than 150 years ago. It is symmetrically built, 
upon an elevated plain, half a mile east of the 
river. It has no historic associations of especial 
interest. Professor Morse, the inventor of the 
electric telegraph, and Benson J. Lossing, the 
historian, reside here. 

NeiD Pallz Landing is on the opposite side of 
the river, west. 

Hyde Park, and " Placentia."— -Hyde 
Park, 80 miles above New York, is a quiet little 
village on the east side, in the midst of a countiy 
of great fertility, and thronged with wealthy 
homesteads and sumptuous villas. Near the 
village, on the north is " Placentia," famous as 
the home of the late veteran author, Jas. K. 
Paulding. Here that distinguished pioneer in 
American letters reached a kindly age, his time 
divided between his books and his fields. Pla- 
centia commands a magnificent view of the river 
"^\-indings, far above, even to the peaks of the 
distant Catskills. 

Staatsburg is upon the railway, a few miles 
above. 

Kondout and King-ston he on the west- 
ern side, the former on the Rondout Creek, 
one mile from the Hudson, and the latter on an 
elevated plain, three miles distant from the river. 
At Rondout is the terminus of the Delaware 
and Hudson Canal, through which large sup- 
plies of coal are brought to market. The Ron- 
dout Creek is a singularly picturesque stream, in 
aU its course from the mountains, westward. 



NEW YOEK. 



93 



Kingston is a tbriviug and pleasant place. Its 
population in 1S55, was nearly 5,000, and that of 
the township, 13,000. It w;is settled by the Dutch 
(1663; about the time of the settlement of Albany 
and New Yorli. lu the times of the Revolu- 
tion it was burned by the British (1777). The 
iirst constitution of New York was framed and 
adopted in a house still standing here. 

Kingston was the birth-place of Vanderlyn, 
the eminent painter. He died here in 1853. 

Rhinebeck is on the railway, opposite Kingston, 
and is connected with that village by a ferry. 

In our voyage up the Hudson, we have now, 
as we have had for some miles hack, new and 
maguiticent features in the landscape. Far 
away on the west, lie the hold ranges of the 
Shawangunk and the Catskill Mountains, form- 
ing fresh and charming pictures at every step of 
our progress. 

Saugerties and TivoH, the one on the west, and 
the other on the east bank of the river, now at- 
tract our attention. Saugerties is a picturesque 
and prosperous village, at the debouchure of the 
beautiful waters of Esopus Creek. 

Passing Maiden on the left, and Gerinantown 
on the right, we come to Oakhill, the station on 
the railway for the opposite town of 

Catskill.— Hotels :— 

Catskill, at the mouth of the Catskill Creek, 
on the west bank of the Hudson, lu its picto- 
rial attractions, this is one of the most interest- 
ing points of our present route. The village, 
which is a pleasant and thriving one, rises from 
the margin of the creek, to an elevated site on 
the north, where it is dissipated in many beauti- 
ful country villas, overlooking the river on the 
east, and the valley and mountains on the west. 

Among these homes is th.at of the family of 
the painter, Thomes Cole. This great artist was 
hurled in the village cemetery here. His studio, 
seen from the water, is still preserved in all 
its arrangements, as it was when he last occu- 
pied it. 

Catskill is chiefly interesting to the tourist as 
the point of detour towards the wonders of the 
mountain ranges, which lie over the intervening 
valley, 10 miles westward. See Tour to the 
Catskill Mountains. 



Hudson. — Hotels -.— Tlie 
Main street. 



Worth House, 



In the voyage ahove and below Hudson, 
there are displayed some of the finest passages 
of the river scenery. With a varied shore on 
the east, and the Catskill peaks and ridges on 
the west, the tourist will scarcely regret that he 



lias left even the Highlands behind tim. Pass- 
ing Mount Merino, about four miles above Cats- 
kill, the city of Hudson, lying upon the water 
and upon a high terrace, spreading awaj^ to 
higher lands on the east, comes imposingly into 
view. It is one of the most important river towns 
commercially, and one of the most attractive to- 
pographically and pictorially. The main street, 
which lies through the heart of the city, from 
east to west, terminates at the river extremity in 
a pleasant little park called Promenade Hill, on 
a bold promontory, rising abruptly 60 feet above 
the water ; while the other terminus climbs to 
the foot of Prospect Hill, an elevation of 200 
feet. From these lofty heights the views of the 
Catskills, of the far-spreading river, and of the 
beautiful city itself are inoomparahle. There 
are nearly a dozen churches, some of them ele- 
gant structures, in Hudson ; a fine court-house 
of marble, and other public edifices, among 
them a famous Lunatic Asylum. It has various 
educational establishments, and newspapers and 
other publications to the number of half a dozen. 
Hudson is a depot of large business, and at one 
time it had an extensive Indian and whaling 
trade. It is at the head of ship navigation on 
the river. There are also large manufacturing 
interests here, maintaining upwards of seventy 
establishments of various kinds. It is the chief 
terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railw.iy, 
extending eastward 34 miles to West Stock- 
bridge, Mass., and uniting with the trains from 
Albany to Boston, and with other routes. 

Passengers for the Shaker Village at New 
Lebanon, 36 miles from Hudson, take the Hud- 
son and Boston cars to within seven miles of 
the Springs, which are much sought in summer 
time. 

Columbia Springs, five miles distant, is a sum- 
mer resort of great value to invalids, and of 
interest to all. The Claverack Falls, some 
eight miles olF, should not be overlooked by the 
visitor. 

Athens is a little village, with a population of 
1,400, directly opposite Hudson, and connected 
with it by a steam ferry. 

Stockport, Coxsackie and Stuyvesant come 
now in succession along the east side of the 
river. These are bustling and thriving little 
places. 

Kinderhook Landing, and " Lindenwold." 
The village of Kinderhook, about five miles east 
of the landing, on the east side of the river, is 
the birth-place of Martin Van Buren, Ex-Presi- 
dent of the United States. His present resi- 
dence is upon his estate of " Lindenwold," two 
miles soitth of the village. 

New Baltimore and Coeymans are now pass- 
ed on the left, and Schodack and Castleton on 



94 



KEW TOEE. 



the right, after -which -we yot journey some eight 
miles, and then reach East Albany, where "sve 
may continue on to Troy, or cross the river by 
ferry to the end of our present route at the 
city of 

Albany.— Hotels -.—The Delavan House. 

"We are now at the capital of the Empire 
State, after our voyage of 145 miles (by railway, 
144), from the city of New York. For the con- 
tinuation elsewhere of our travels from this 
point to Boston, Canada, Saratoga Springs, Niag- 
ara Falls, and the Great West- -for railways in 
all directions meet here — the tourist is referred 
to our Index of routes and places. 

Albany was founded by the Dutch, first as a 
trading post on Castle Island, dii-ectly below the 
site of the present city, in 1614. Fort Orange 
was built where the town now stands, in 1623 ; 
and, next to Jamestown in Virginia, was the 
earliest European settlement in the original 
thirteen States. It was known as Beaver Wyck, 
and as Williamstadt, before it received its pres- 
ent name in honor of James, Duke of York 
and Albany, afterwards James the Second, at 
the period when it fell into British posses- 
sion, 1664. The j)opulation in 1860, was about 
68,000. 

It has a large commerce, from its position at 
the head of the sloop navigation and tide water 
upon the Hudson, as the entrepdt of the great 
Erie Canal from the west, and the Champlain 
Canal from the north, and as the centre to which 
many routes and lines of travel converge. The 
boats of the canal are received in a grand basin 
constructed in the river, with the help of a pier 
80 feet wide, and 4,300 long. 

Albany, seen from some points upon the river, 
makes a very effective appearance, the ground 
rising westward from the low flats on the shore, 
to an elevation of some 220 feet, in the range of a 
mile westward. State street ascends in a steep 
grade from the water to the height crowned by 
the State Capitol. 

Among the public huildings are the Capitol, 
tho State Hall, the City Hall, the Hospital, the 
Penitentiary (a model prison), the Aims-House, 
and more than 40 church edifices. Of the latter 
the new Cathedral is a noble structure. 

The Dudley Observatory, founded hy the mu- 
nificence of Mrs. Blandina Dudley, was erected 
at a cost of $25,000, and has been further endowed 
to the amount of $100,000. Tne University of 
Albany was incorporated in 1852. The Law 
Department is now one of the hest in the Union. 

The Medical College, which was founded 1839, 
is a prosperous ostahlishment. The State Nor- 
mal School was organized successfully in 1844, 



" for the education and practice of teachers of 
common schools, in the science of education, and 
the art of teaching." The Albany Institute, for 
scientific advancement, has a library of 5,000 
volumes. The Young Men's Association has a 
collection of 8,000 volumes ; the Apprentices' 
Library, 3,000 ; and the State Library (accessible 
to public use) has 46,000 volumes. 

The edifice on State street, where are deposited 
the public collections in natural history, and in 
geology, and in agriculture, is most interesting. 
The Orphan Asylum, and other benevolent 
establishments of the city, are well worth the 
consideration of the tourist. 

The distinguished sculptor E. D. Palmer re- 
sides here. His studio is a place of especial 
attraction. 

Troy. — Hotels: — American Hotel, Mansion 
House, Troy House, Temperance House, North- 
ern Hotel, Washington Hell, Union Hall, and the 
St. Charles. 

Troy is a large and beautiful city of over 
45,000 inhabitants. It is upon both banlcs of the 
Hudson, at the mouth of the Poestenkill Creek. 
It is huilt upon an alluvial plain, overlooked on 
the east side by the classic heights of Mount Ida, 
and on the north by the barren clifis of Mount 
OljTnpus, 200 feet high. These elevated points 
command superb views of the city and its charm- 
ing vicinage, and of the great waters of the Hud- 
son. Troy lies along the river for the length of 
three miles, and drops back a mile from east to 
west. Troy is a busy city, with its manufac- 
turing industry, and as a great entrepot of rail- 
way travel from and to all points. It boasts 
many fine churches and public buildings, and 
manj'' admirable private mansions and cottages. 
Here is the well-known Female Seminary, estab- 
lished hy Mrs. Emma WiUard, in 1821. It is the 
seat, too, of the Troy Polytechnic Institute. 

The cars leave Troy and Greenbush every 
hour during the day and evening. Steamhoats 
and stages also run between Albany and Troy. 
Eailway trains extend to all points. See In- 
dex. 

"West Troy, a suburb of Troy, on the oppo- 
site side of the river, is a rapidly growing place. 
The inhabitants are employed principally in 
manufactures. A fine Macadamized road leads 
from "West Troy to Albany, a distance of six 
miles. 

At GilDbonsville is a United States Arse- 
nal, where is kept a large and constant supply 
of small arms, and the various munitions of war. 
This is one of the most important of the national 
depots, and is worthy the attention of the trav- 
eller. 



NEW TOEK. 



95 



NEW YORK TO LAKE ERIE. 

By the Neio York and Erie Railroad. 

. . This great route claims especial admiration for 
the grandeur of the enterprise which conceived 
and executed it*for the vast contribution it has 
made to the facilities of travel, and for the mul- 
tiplied and varied landscape heautiea which it 
has made so readily and pleasantly accessible. 
Its entire length, from New York to Dunkirk, 
on Lake Erie, is 460 miles (including the Pier- 
mont and the Newburgh branch, it is 497 miles), 
in which it traverses the southern portion of the 
Empire State in its entire extent from east to 
west, passing through countless towns and vil- 
lages, over many rivers, through rugged moun- 
tain passes now, and anon amidst broad and fer- 
tile valleys and plains. In addition, it has many 
branches, connecting its stations with other 
routes in all directions, and opening yet new 
stores of pictorial pleasures. 

The road was first commenced in 1836. The 
firsD portion (46 miles, from Pierniontto Goshen) 
was put in operation September 23d, 1S41 ; and, 
on the 15th of May, 1851, the entire line to Lake 
Erie was opened amid great rejoicings and festi- 
vals, in which the President of the United States 
and other distinguished guests of the company 
assisted. 

Some idea of the extent of this noble route 
may be gathered from the fact, that, in 1854, it 
employed about 200 locomotives, nearly 3,000 
oars, 4,000 employes (682 of which are engaged 
in repairing engines and cars). The cost of the 
road and equipments, up to 1854 (including the 
Newburgh branch), was nearly $-34,500,000. The 
earnings for the year 1856 were $6,349,050 15, and 
the expenses for the same period were $5,002,- 
754 48. 

An interesting feature of this road, and one 
of great convenience to the Company and secu- 
rity to the traveller, is its own telegraph, which 
runs by the side of the road through its whole 
extent, and has its operator in nearly every sta- 
tion-house. This telegraph has a double wire 
the entire length of the road ; enabling the 
Company to transact the public as well as their 
own private business. Daily trains leave for the 
"West on this route, from the foot of Duane 
street, morning, noon, and night. 

STATIONS. 

New York, Jersey City, Bergen, 2 miles ; 
Boiling Spring, 9 ; Passaic Bridge, 11 ; Huyler's, 
12 ; Paterson, 16 ; Godwinville, 21 ; Hohokus, 
23 ; Allendale, 25 ; Ramsey's, 27 ; Suffern's, 31 ; 
Ramapo, 33 ; Sloatsburg, 35 ; Southflelds, 41 ; 
Greenwood, 44 ; Turner's, 47 ; Monroe, 49 ; Ox- 



ford, 52 ; Chester, 55 ; Goshen, 59 ; Hampton 
63 ; Middletown, 66 ; Howell's, 70 ; Otisville, 75 
Port Jervis, 88 ; Shohola, 106 ; Lackawaxen 
110 ; Mast Hope, 116 ; Naerowsburg, 122 ; Co 
chccton, 130; Callicoon, 135; Hankins, 142 
Basket, 14G ; Lordville, 153; Stockport, 159 
Hancock, 163 ; Hale's Eddy, 171 ; Deposit, 176 
Susquehanna, 19C ; Great Bend, 200 ; Kirk- 
wood, 206 ; Conklin, 210 ; Binghamton, 214 
Hooper, 220 ; Union, 223 ; Campville, 228 ; Owe 
60, 236; Tioga, 242; Smithboro, 246; Barton, 
248 ; Waverley, 255 ; Chemung, 260 ; Wellsburg. 
266 ; Elmiea, 273 ; Junction, 277 ; Big Flats, 283 
Corning, 291 ; Painted Post, 292 ; Addison, 301 
RathboneviUe, 306 ; Cameron, 314 ; Aarian,322 
Canisteo, 327 ; Hoknellsvillb, 331 ; Almond 
336 ; Alfred, 340 ; Andover, 349 ; Genesee, 358 
Scio, 361; Phillipsville, 365; Belvidere, 369 
Friendship, 373; Cuba, 382; Hinsdale, S89 
Clean, 395 ; Alleghany, 398 ; Great Valley, 411 
Little Valley, 420; Cattaraugus, 428; Dayton, 
437 ; Perrysburg, 440 ; Smith's Mills, 447 ; For- 
estville, 451 ; Sheriden, 455 ; Dunkirk, 460. 

To SufferrVs (31 miles) via New Jersey, and via 
Piermont. The first 31 miles of the Erie route, 
that through the State of New Jersey, from Jer- 
sey City, opposite New York, to "Suftern's," 
consists of parts of three different railways, 
though used of late years for all the general pas- 
senger travel of the Erie road, and with its own 
broad track and cars. The original line of the 
road is from Suffern's eastward, 18 miles, to Pier- 
mont, and thence 24 miles down the Hudson 
River. This route is now employed only for 
freight, and for local travel. It leads through a 
rude but not uninteresting country, with here 
and there a fine landscape or an agreeable village. 

"We pass now, without halt, through the New 
Jersey towns — Paterson, with its " Falls of the 
Passaic" among them, and begin our mention of 
places and scenes of interest on the Erie route, 
at Suffern's station, where the original Piermont 
and the present Jersey City lines meet. The 
Ramapo Valley commences at this point, and, 
in its wild mountain passes, wo find the first 
scenes of especial remark in our journey. Fine 
hill farms surround us here, and on all our way 
through the region of the Ramapo for 18 miles, 
by Sloatsburg y Soutlifields, Greenwood, and Turn- 
ers to Monroe. The chief attraction of the Ram- 
apo Gap is the Torn Mountain, variedly seen, on 
the right, near the entrance of the valley and 
about the Ramapo station. This is historical 
ground, sacred with memories of the movements 
of the Revolutionary army, when it was driven 
back into New York from the Hudson. Wash- 
ington often ascended to the summit of the Torn 
to overlook the movements of the British. On 
one such occasion, anecdote says that he lost hia 



96 



NEW TOEE. 



Tvatch in a crevice of a rock, of vfhich credulity 
afterwards heard the ticking in the percolations 
of unseen waters. Very near the railway at Suf- 
fern's the debris of old intrenchmeuts are still 
visihle ; and marks of the camp fires of our 
French allies of the period may he traced in the 
woods opposite. Near by is an old farm house, 
once occupied. by the commander-hi-chief The 
Ramapois a great iron ore and iron manufacture 
region ; and it was here that the great chain 
which was stretched across the Hudson to check 
the advance of the English ships, was forged, at 
the spot once called the Augusta Iron Works, 
and now a poetical ruin by a charming cascade 
with overhanging bluff, seen close by the road, 
on the right, after passing Sloatsbur.g. The 
Ramapo Brook winds attractively through the 
valley, and beautiful lakelets are found upon the 
hill tops. There are two such elevated ponds 
near Sloatshurg. At Sloatsburg passengers for 
the summer resort of Greenwood Lake, 12 miles 
off, take stage tri-wcekly. See Greenwood Lake. 
From Monroe onward through Oxford, Chester, 
Goshen, Hampton, Middletotcn, HoweWs, and 
Otisville to Port Jervis (or Delaware), we are in 
the great dairy region of Orange County, New 
York, which sends a train of cars laden only 
with milk daily to the New York market. A 
very charming view is seen south from the sta- 
tion at Oxford, led by the cone of the Sugar Loaf, 
the chief hill feature of the vicinage. At Ches- 
ter, the branch road from Newburgh, on the 
Hudson river, 19 miles long, comes in. From 
this point, as well as from Sloatsburg, passengers 
for Greenwood Lake (eight miles) take stage. 
At Howell's, 70 miles from New York, the coun- 
try gives promise of the picturesque displays to 
be seen through all the way onward to Port 
Jervis. Approaching Otisville, the eye is won 
by the bold flanks of the Shawangunk Moimtain, 
the passage of which great barrier (once deemed 
altoost insurmountable) is a miracle of engineer- 
ing skill. A mile beyond Otisville, after travers- 
ing an ascending grade of 40 feet to the mile, the 
road runs through a rock cutting. 60 feet deep 
and 2,500 feet long. This passed, the summit of 
the ascent is reached, and thence we go down 
the mountain side many sloping miles to the val- 
ley beneath. The scenery along the mountain 
elope is grand and picturesque, and the effect is 
not lessened by the bold features of the landscape 
all around— the rugged front of the Shawangunk, 
stepping, like a colossal ghost, into the scene for 
one instant, and the eye anon resting upon avast 
reach of untamed wilderness. In the descent of 
the mountain the embankment is securely sup- 
ported by a wall 30 feet in height and 1,000 feet 
long. The way onward grows momently in in- 
terest, until it opens upon a glimpse, away over 



the valley of the mountain spur, called the Cud- 
dleback ; and, at its base, the glittering water 
seen now for the first time, of the Delaware and 
Hudson Canal, whose cfe'6o!<c/mre we have looked 
upon at Kingston, in our voyage up the Hiidson 
River. Eight miles beyond OfcviUe we are im- 
prisoned in a deep earthy cut for nearly a mile, 
admirably preparing us for the brilliant surprise 
which awaits us. The dark passage made, and 
yet another bold dash through rocky cliffs, and 
there lies suddenly spread before us, upon our 
right, the rich and lovely valley and waters of the 
Neversink. Beyond s^veeps a chain of blue hills, 
and at their feet, terraced high, there gleam the 
roofs and spires of the village of Port Jervis ; 
while onward, to the south, our eye first beholds 
the floods of the Delaware, which is to be so 
great a source of delight in all our journey hence, 
for nearly 90 long miles, to Deposit. 

Port Jervis, or Delaware, as the station was 
called, is the terminus of the eastern division, 
one of four great sub-sections into which the road 
is measured. It is the point at which the tourist 
who can spend several days in viewing the route, 
should make his flrst night's halt. The vicinage 
is replete with pictorial delights, and with ways 
and means for rural sjioi-ts and pleasures. Charms 
of climate and of scenery, with the additional con- 
siderations of a pretty village and a most excel- 
lent hotel (the Delaware House at the station), 
have made Port Jervis a place of great and con- 
tinuous summer resort and tarry. 

There is a stage route hence, 6 miles, to the 
neighboring " Falls of the Sawkill." This stream, 
after flowing sluggishly for some miles through 
level table-land, is here precipitated over two 
pei-pendicular ledges of slate-rock — the flrst of 
about 20 feet, and the second about 60 feet — into 
a wild gorge. The brook still continues, dashing 
and foaming on for a quarter of a mile, over 
smaller precipices, and through chasms scarcely 
wide enough for the visitor to pass. The beet- 
ling cliffs that form the sides of the gorge are 
surmounted and shaded by cedars and hemlocks, 
that lend a peculiarly sombre air to the scenery. 
The sojourner here must not omit a tramp to the 
top of Point Peter, overlooking the village, and 
all the wonders for miles around. 

We now continue the transit of the second 
grand division of the road, which carries us on- 
ward, 104 miles further, to Susquehanna, and 
from New York, all told, 192 miles. The canal 
keeps us company, nearer or more remote, for 
some miles, and by and by we cross the Delaware 
on a fine bridge of SOO feet, built at a cost of $75,- 
000. The river, from this point, is seen, both 
above and below, to great -advantage. Here wo 
leave Orange County and New York for a little 
incursion into the Keystone State, for which 



NEW TOEE. 



97 



privilege the compnny pays Pennsylvania ten 
thousand dollars per year. 

The caual, and its pictures and incidents, are 
still the most agreeable features of our way, 
though at Point Eddy we open into one of the 
wide basins so striking in the scenery of the 
Delaware. 

Near Shohola (106 miles from New York), we 
are among some of the greatest engineering suc- 
cesses of the Erie route, and some of its chief 
pictorial charms. , Here the road lies on the 
mountain side, several feet above the river, along 
a mighty gallery, supported by grand natural 
abutments of jagged rock. It is a pleasant scene 
to watch the flight of the train upon the crest of 
this rocky and secure precipice ; and the impres- 
Biveness of the sight is deepened by its contrast 
with the peaceful repose of the smiling meadow 
slopes, on the opposite side of the river below. 
Upon three miles alone of this Shohola section of 
the road, no loss than three hundred thousand 
dollars were expended. 

At Lackawaxen (111 miles from New York), 
there is a charming picture of the village, and of 
the Delaware bridged by the railway, and by the 
grand aqueduct for the passage of the canal, 
supported by an Iron wire suspension, bridge. 

We pass on now by Mast Hope to Narrows- 
burg. 

Narrowsburg: (122 miles from New York 
and 337 from Dunkirk), is a pleasant place for 
quiet summer rest and rural pastime, with its 
inviting hotel comforts, and its piscatory and 
field recreations and sports. 

Beyond Narrowsburg, for some miles, the 
traveller may turn to his newspaper or book for 
occupation a while, so little of interest does 
the scene, without, present, with the exception, 
now and then, of a pleasing bit of pastoral re- 
gion. Some compensation may be found in re- 
calling the stirring incidents of Cooper's novel of 
the " Last of the Mohicans," of which this ground 
was the theatre. 

At CallicooQ, a brook full of wild and beauti- 
ful passages and of bright trout, comes down to 
the Delaware. 

As we approach Hancock, once called Che- 
hocton, we come near the charming picture of 
the meeting of the two branches of the Delaware, 
seen on our left. 

Hancock is one of the most important places 
on this division of our route, and in every way a 
pleasant spot for sojourn. 

At Deposit, 13 miles beyond Hancock, and 176 
from New York, we bid good-bye to the Dela- 
ware, which we have followed so long ; refresh 
ourselves at the excellent cafe, and prepare for 
the ascent of a heavy grade over the high moun- 
tain ridge which separates it from the lovely 



waters of the Susquehanna. "We go up 58 feet 
per mile to an elevation 865 feet above Deposit. 
The way is wild and desolate, covered with the 
jagged debris left in the strong battle with the 
mountain fastnesses. The grand pass of the 
summit reached, we descend again by a grade of 
60 feet, into that most beautiful region of tho 
Erie road, the Valley of the Susquehanna. 

For a little while, as we go down, there seems 
no promise of the wonders which are awaiting 
us, hut they come suddenlj', and before we are 
aware, we are traversing the famous 

Cascade Bridge, a solitary arch, 250 feet 
wide, sprung over a dark ravine of 184 feet in 
depth. 

No adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty 
of the scene can bo had from the cars, and espe- 
cially in the rapid transit often passed before tho 
traveller is aware of its approach. It should be 
viewed leisurely from the bottom of the deep 
glen, and from all sides, to bo reaUzed aright. 
To see it thus, a half a day's halt should be 
made at the next station, to which we shall soon 
come. 

The Cascade Bridge crossed, the view opens 
almost immediately, at the right — deep down 
upon the winding Susquehanna, reaching afar 
olf amidst a valley and hill picture of delicious 
quality, a fitting prelude to the sweet river scenes 
we are henceforth to delight in. This first 
grateful glimpse of the brave Susquehanna is 
justly esteemed as one of the finest points on the 
varied scenery of the Erie Railway route. It 
may be looked at more leisurely and more lov- 
ingly by him who tarries to explore the Cascade 
Bridge hard by, and the valley of the Starrucca, 
with its grand viaduct, which wo are now rapidly 
approaching. 

The Starrucca Viaduct (190 miles from 
New York and 269 from Dunkirk), is one of the 
chief art-glories of our present route — perhaps 
the chiefest. The giant structure is made of 
stone from the ravine, two miles above, crossed 
by the fairy Cascade Bridge. It is 1,200 feet 
in length and 110 feet high, and has 18 grand 
arches, each 50 feet span. The cost was $320,000. 
The landscape is of exceeding beauty, whether 
seen from the viaduct or from any one of many 
points, near or afar off, below. From the vicin- 
ity of Susquehanna, the next station, the viaduct 
itself makes a most efi'ective feature in the val- 
ley views. 

A little way beyond, and just before we reach 
the Susquehanna station, we cross a fine trestle 
bridge, 450 feet long, over the Cannewacta Creek, 
at Lanesborough. We are now fairly upon the 
Susquehanna, not in the distanoo but near its 
very marge, and, anon, we reach the^ end of tho 
second grand division of our route, and enter tha 



98 



NEW TOEK. 



bnsy depot of Susquehanna, from New York 
192 miles, aud from Dunkirk 267, 

At Susquelianna we are passing beyond 
the "wild scenery on our route, and in a fewmiles 
further we shall fall in with and follow, for many 
miles, through broad valley tracts, coursed by 
the great winding river — a country •which we 
shall find replete with interest, and very often 
of marked natural beauty, however imlike the 
scenes upon which we have looked in our tran- 
sit of the wild hills and forest region of the Dela- 
ware. 

The Susquehanna station is one of the busiest 
points on our route, being the place where di- 
visions meet — where the great massive engines, 
or pushers, which are used to push the heavy 
trains hence to the top of the grand hill " Sum- 
mit." are housed, and where the workshops for 
the repairs of disabled locomotives and cars are 
located. 200 hands are employed here by the 
company. Indeed, the place is all railroad, from 
which it was born and from which it has grown. 
If the hotels at this station are too noisy for the 
tarrying stranger, we may go a mile backwards 
to Lanesborough, and from thence review the 
scenes of the Starrucca and of the Cascade 
■Bridges, with many other points of pictorial 
attraction. 

Just beyond the Susquehanna depot we cross 
to the right bank of the river, and, after two 
more miles ride, yet amidst mountain ridges, we 
reach 

Great Bend, 200 miles from New York, and 
259 from Dunkirk. The- village of this name 
lies close by, in the State of Pennsylvania, at the 
base of a bold cone-shaped hill. 

At Great Bend there comes in to the Erie 
Road the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western 
Railwaj', leading nearly south into Pennsylva- 
nia, through the coal regions of Scranton, the 
neighborhood of the valley of Wyoming, the 
Water Gap of the Delaware, and ending upon 
that river, five miles yet below ; here it is con- 
nected by other railway routes with New York, 
Philadelphia, etc. See Index. 

Leaving Great Bend we enter upon the more 
cultivated landscape of which we lately spoke, 
and approach villages and towns of greater ex- 
tent and elegance. 

Near Kirkwood, the nest station, sis miles 
from Great Bend, there stands an old wooden 
tenement, which may attract the traveller's 
notice as the birth-place of the Mormon prophet, 
Joe Smith. 

Bing'h.ainton.— Hotels :— The American 
House, The Lewis Mouse. 
Binghamton, 216 miles from New York, is, 
> with its population of ten or eleven thousand 



people, one of the most important places on tho 
Erie route, and indeed in southern New York. 
It is a beautiful town, situated upon a wide 
plain, in an angle made by the meeting of the 
Susquehanna and the Chenango rivers. 

Binghamton was settled in 1S04, by Mr. . 
Bingham, an English gentleman, whose daugh- 
ters married the brothers Henry and Alexander 
Baring, the famous London bankers. One of 
those gentlemen Vi^as afterwards created Lord 
Ashburton. 

The Chenango Canal, extending along the 
Chenango river, connects Binghamton with 
Utica, N. Y., 95 miles distant ; and it is also the 
southern terminus of the Syracuse and Bing- 
hamton Railroad, 80 miles long. See Index. 
Passing on by the stations of Hooper, Union, 
and Campville, we come to 

Owego. — Hotels : — Ah-wa-ga House. 

Owego, another large and handsome town, 
almost rivalling Binghamton in beauty and im- 
portance. Owego is surrounded by a landscape, 
not of bold but of very beautiful features. Many 
noble panoramas are to be seen from the hill- 
tops around, overlooking the village and the 
great vallej'. The Owego Creek, which enters 
the Susquehanna here, is a charming stream. 
Just hefoi-e its meeting with the greater waters, 
it passes through the meadow, and at the base 
of the hill slopes of '' Glenmary," once the home 
of N. P. WUlis, and now one of the Meccaa of 
the vicinage, to which all visitors are won by the 
charms and spells the genius of the poet has cast 
about it. It was here that Mr. Willis wrote his 
famous " Letters from under a Bridge." 

The Cayuga and Susquehanna Railroad di- 
verges here, some 30 miles, to Ithaca, on Cayuga 
Lake. See Index. 

The Owaga House, in the heart of the town 
and on the banks of the Susquehanna, is a large 
and elegant summer hotel. 

Elmira. — Hotels : — Brainard House. 

Passing the half dosen intermediate stations, 
we jump now 37 miles, to Elmira, 273 miles 
from New York. This beautiful town is a peer 
of Binghamton and Owego, with the same 
charming valley nest and the same environing 
hill-ridges. 

The Ne-wton Creek and the Chemung River, 
near the junction of which waters Elmira is 
built, lend a world of picturesque beauty to the 
vicinage. 

The Elmira, Canandaigua, and Niagara Ealls 
Railway diverges here, and connects the village 
with the Canada lines. This road is one of the 



NEW YOEK. 



99 



ploasantest from New York to the Falls of Ni- 
agara. 

The "WilliamBport and Elmira Railroad con- 
ducts hence into Penusylvania, and unites with 
other lines for Philadelphia. The Chemung 
Canal also connects Elmira with Seneca Lake, 
20 miles distant. It is a delightful excursion 
from the village to Geneva and other places on 
the Seneca Lake, by the railway travel. See 
Index for routes from Elmira. 

Five miles beyond Elmira, our route is over the 
Chemung River, bringing us to " Junction," the 
starting point of the Chemung Railroad for 
Jefferson and Niagara. 

Corning', 290 miles from New York, is an 
important point on the Chemung River. The 
feeder of the Chemung Canal extends hither 
from Elmira. It is the depot of the Corning and 
Blossburg Railroad, 40 miles distant from the coal 
beds of Pennsylvania. At Corning there ter- 
minates also the Buffalo, Corning, and New 
York Railroad, 9i miles, via Avon (Springs), 
and Batavia to Rochester, on the great routes 
west from Albany. See Index. 

Hornellsville. Passing half a dozen sta- 
tions, we now reach Hornellsville, where passen- 
gers for Buffalo, Niagara, &c., follow the Branch 
Road north, for 91 miles. (See Buffalo division.) 
At this point we enter upon the fourth and last 
division of the Erie route, being now 331 miles 
from New York, and having 128 miles yet to 
travel to Dunkirk. The country through the 
rest of our way is comparatively new, and no im- 
portant towns have yet grown up within it. 
Pictorially this division is the least attractive of 
the whole route, though beautiful scenes occur 
still, at intervals, all along. Beyond Hornells- 
ville, we enter the valley of the Caniacadca, a 
fine mountain passage, filled with the merry 
waters of the Caniacadea Creek. Almond and 
Alfred lie upon the banks of this charming 
stream. 

Reaching Tip Top Summit (the highest grade 
of the Erie Road, being 1,700 feet above tide 
water), we commence the descent into the val- 
ley of the Genesee. The country has but few 
marks of human habitation to cheer its lonely 
and wild aspect, and for many miles onward, 
our way continues through a desolate forest 
tract, alternated only by the stations and little 
villages of the road. Beyond Cuba Summit, 
there are many brooks and glens of rugged 
beauty. 

Passing Olean, on the Alleghany River, we 
come into the lands of the Indian Reservation, 
where we follow the wild banks of the Alle- 
ghany, between lofty hills, as wiM and desolate 
as itself. 

At Cattaraugus, 428 miles from New York, and 



31 from Dunkirk, we traverse a deep valley, 
where the eye is reUeved for a little while, with 
scenes of gentler aspect than the unbroken 
forest we have long traversed, and are to traverse 
still. 

Three miles beyond Perrysburg we catch our 
first peep at the great Erie waters, towards 
which we are now rapidly speeding. Yet a few 
miles, and we are out of the dreary woods, cours- 
ing again through the more habitable lands which 
lie upon the lakes. 

Dunkirk.— Hotels :— The Eastern. 

Reaching Dunkirk at last, wo may pursue our 
journey westward by any one of many routes 
by land and by water — on the blue waves, or still 
upon the rapid rail. "VVe shall follow all these 
routes in other pages — the steamers to Cleveland 
or Detroit, or the lake shore road to Cleveland. 
Thence by railway to Columbus, and Cincinnati, 
southward, or to Toledo, westward. From To- 
ledo onward by the Michigan and Northern In- 
diana Railway to Chicago, and thence again by 
the Rock Island Road to the Mississippi, or by 
the Illinois Central route to St. Louis, and by 
other ways still onward, to the far west. 

NEW YORK TO BUFFALO AND NIAG- 
ARA FALLS. 

VIA BTJFFAIO BEANCH OP NEW TOKK AND EEIE 
EAILKOAD. 

Follow the main trunk of the New York and 
Erie Road, from Jersey City, 331 miles to Hor- 
nellsville, N. Y. 

Trains continue on immediately to Buffalo, on 
their arrival at Hornellsville, by the Branch 
Route, formerly the New York City and Buffalo 
Railroad. 

STATIONS. 

Hornellsville ; Burns, 9 ; Whitney's, 13 ; 
Swainville, 17 ; Nunda, 24 ; Hunt's Hollow, 26 ; 
Portage, 30; Castile, 34; Gainesville, 37 ; War- 
saw, 44; Middlebury, 49 ; Linden, 53; Attica, 
60 ; Darien, 64 ; Alden, 71 ; Town Line, 76 ; Lan- 
caster, 81 ; Buffalo, 91. 

The road follows by the side of the Dunkirk 
track through the village, and then bends north- 
ward. For nearly 30 miles, along very elevated 
ground, there is but little to interest the tourist, 
until he comes in sight of the village of Portage, 
lying in a deep valley to the north-west. 

Portage is deservedly a Mecca to the lover 
of the picturesque, abounding, as it does, in the 
wildest wonders of mountain gorge and cataract. 
The Genesee River steals and tumbles through 



100 



NEW YOEK. 



the lawns and ravines of this region in a very 
wonderful way. At Portage, it enters a grand 
rooky defile, and in passing, falls in many a su- 
perb cascade. Near the station, this gorge is 
crossed by the railroad, upon a bridge of great 
magnitude and remarkable construction. From 
below, it rises upon the view like story upon 
story of solid and symmetrical scaffolding, to a 
height of 234 feet ; its length is 800 feet. Beneath 
its huge masses of timber, foams the river, and 
by its angry side are the placid waters of the 
Genesee Valley Canal. 

To see the wonders of Portage aright, one 
must tarry for daj's in the village, or better yet, 
at the hotel near the station house. 

The Genesee makes a bold descent of 40 feet 
(seen from the cars), as it rushes beneath the 
great bridge, onward to yet deeper beds. A 
quarter of a mile northward is the second cata- 
ract of 80 feet ; huge high cliffs soar yet far 
above it. To see the scene properly, the visitor 
will cross the bridge over the Genesee above thfe 
mill, and place himself immediately in front of 
the fall. 

Some distance beyond, a staircase conducts to 
the bottom of the ravhie, whence you may pass 
in a boat, or pick your way along beneath the 
spray of the tumbling floods. The walls of this 
gorge are of slate stone ; they rise to a height of 
more than 300 feet, and in the many and sudden 
turnings of the way, offer a grateful succession 
of noble pictures. 

A mile and a-half still down the glen, and we 
reach the third, and, perhaps, the grandest of 
the cascades ; placed as it is in an exceedingly 
deep and narrow passage of the ravine. This 
leap is 60 feet. 

The canal far up above the descending bed 
of the Genesee in this vicinage, is a most telling 
feature in the landscape — a strain of gentleness 
in the wild anthem of the rugged ravine. 

"We leave the traveller here to pursue the rest 
of his way, 61 miles to Butfalo, and to go thence 
to ISTiagara or elsewhere, as he may find direc- 
tions in other parts of our Hand Book. 

NEW YORK TO THE CATSKILL MOUN- 
TAINS. 

We can commend to the traveller no pleasanter 
or more profitable summer excursion for a day, 
or a month, or even a season, than a ^•isit to the 
Catskills — one of the grandest and most pic- 
turesque of the mountain ranges of the United 
States. 

To reach the Catskills from New York we 
will follow our previous routes up the Hudson to 
the village of Catskill (1H miles), or the river 
railway to Oakliill station opposite, crossing 
thence to Catekill by ferry. 



At Catskill good stages are always in waiting 
to convey passengers to the Mountain House, on 
the crest of the hills, 12 miles westward. This 
ride will occupj- about four hours, at a cost of 
one to one and a quarter dollars. 

The Catskills are a part of the great Appa- 
lachian chaiu which extends through all the 
eastern portion of the Union, from Canada to 
the Gulf of Mexico. Their chief ranges follow 
the course of the Hudson River, from some 20 to 
30 miles, lying west of it, and separated by a 
valley stretch of 10 to 12 miles. These peaks 
lend to all the landscape of that part of the Hud- 
son from which they are visible, its greatest 
charm. 

Tlie Mountain House is reached by a 
pleasant stage-coach ride through ever-charming 
scenes of vaUey and hill. The last three miles 
of the journey is up the side of the mountain, 
made easy by a good winding way. "Within a 
mile of his destination, the tourist halts upon the 
spot universally conceded to be the site of the 
famous IS.j'ears' nap of Mr. Irving's myth. Rip 
Van "Winkle. 

The Mountain House stands near the brink of 
some bold rooky ledges, upon the summit of one 
of the eastern ranges, commanding all the land- 
scape round for miles and miles away. Lifting 
its grand front thus, it is a curious and wonder- 
ful object, no less within its own shadow than at 
every point from which it may be seen. It is a 
massive and elegant structure of wood, with a 
grand facade of columns reaching the entire 
height of the eaves. It was origin.illv built by 
the people of Catskill, at an expenditure of 20,000 
dollars : but it has since been from time to time 
enlarged and improved, until now it possesses 
every reasonable, if not every possible, hotel con- 
venience and comfort — capacious and well-fur- 
nished parlors, halls, and chambers — a luxurious 
table, and attentive hosts and waiters — and bath- 
ing, billiard, and bowling appointments. In the 
summer the house is a post-oflice, with daily 
mails. 

The superb panorama of the river and valley 
of the Hudson, and of the New England hill 
ranges to the eastward, which the bold site of 
the Mountain House commands, will first fix 
the attention and admiration of the guest. Of 
this unrivalled sight he will never weary, so va- 
ried is it in the changing hours and atmospheres, 
and so imposing imder every aspect. It is 
thought, at the dawn of the day and at the rising 
of the sun, when his magic beams are lifting the 
mystical vapor and cloud-curtain, which the 
night has invisibly spread over the scene, that 
the enchantment will reach its highest point. 
Luckily for the tourist who is not an enthusiast, 
but is contented with the eimple, solid fact of a 



KEW TOEK. 



101 



subject, ]ike Mr. G-radgrind, thcso marvellous ex- 
hibitions of sun-rise efl'ccts may be comfortably 
seen from his warm, secure chamber-'window, 
■when the morning air is, as it often chances to 
be, at this mountain altitude, rather too chill and 
damp for comfort. 

A visit to the locality, called the " North 
Mountain," will be a remunerative morning or 
afternoon's walk. It is only a mile or two 
through the forest, on the lofty ridgo ; but a 
guide will be desirable, for the path is more 
easily lost than found. At the end of the stroll 
he will look back upon his wilderness home over 
a brace of dainty little lakelets, smilingly sleep- 
ing on the mountain top; and beyond, towards 
the south and east, his eye will follow the wind- 
ings of the Hudson far down hi the sunny valley. 
Some stories may be told him of the fondness of 
the bear for this particular locality, but he need 
not be alarmed, for it is rarely indeed, except it 
be when the winter snows envelope the earth, 
that these gentry are about. 

Another agreeable excursion will be in the op- 
posite direction, from the house to the sfiot 
known as " South Mountain," where, upon the 
brink of huge cliffs, may be seen the river and 
valley, and the wonderful pass of the Kauters- 
kill, through the mountain chain westward. 

Tile Two Lakes, which we have just over- 
looked from the North Mountain, make one of 
the leading items in the Catskill programme. 
They lie side by side, in gentle beauty, in the 
heart of the lofty plateau, upon the eastern brink 
of which the Mountain House is perched. They 
may be reached in a pleasant little walk back of 
the hotel. Onwards, and on the way to the 
Great Fahs of the Kauterskill, a few minutes' 
stroll, indeed, is sufficient to bring us to the 
nearest of these twin waters, the Upper or Syl- 
van Lake. This is a spot for repeated and habit- 
ual visits, with its pleasures by the forest shore ; 
in the skifT, upon the quiet and lonely flood ; oj, 
with angle in hand and trout in prospect. 

The High Palls lie two miles back of the 
Mountain House, overleaping the western brink 
of the great plateau. A wagon road leads thither ; 
and there is, besides, a footpath in the forest, by 
which the way is shortened one-half. A good 
team is sent down with passengers (fare 25 cents) 
at least once a day from the hotel. At the very 
brink of the cascades there is another small but 
pleasanter summer inn, called the Laurel House, 
kept by Mr. Scutt, the proprietor of the Falls. 
It is a wonderful sight to overlook the ravine be- 
low, and the giant crests of Round Top and 
High Peak— the proudest of all these hills— from 
the windows or piazzas of the Laurel House, or 
from the platform in front, which overhangs the 
glen. This view enjoyed, with refreshments if 



you please, we commence the descent to the base 
of the cataracts, by many straggling flights of 
wooden steps. Coming to the base of the first 
Fall, wo may steal along a narrow ledge behind 
the descending torrent, as one gets to Termina- 
tion Rock, at Niagara. On the opposite bank 
parties often pic nie, the means and appliances, 
if duly ordered before at the Laurel House, be- 
ing lowered down, upon a signal, in abasket, ovi^r 
the edge of the projecting platform above. The 
descent of the first cascade is 175 feet, and of the 
second, 75 feet, with many a tumble of the vexed 
waters afterwards in their way for a mile down 
the ravine into the main branch of the Kauters- 
kill or Catskill Creek, which dashes down the 
great clove, of which the Mountain House stream 
is only an arm held at a right angle. 

Fenimore Cooper, in his story of the "Pion- 
eer," thus describes these cascades — " The water 
comes croaking and winding among the rocks, 
first, so slow that a trout might swim in it, then 
starting and running like any creature that 
wanted to make a fair spring, till it gets to where 
the mountain divides like the cleft foot of a deer, 
leaving a deep hollow for the brook to tumble 
into. The first pitch is nigh 200 feet, and the 
water looks like flakes of snow before it touches 
the bottom, and then gathers itself together 
again for a new start ; and inaybe flutters over 
50 feet of flat rock before it falls for another 100 
feet, when it jumps from shelf to shelf, first run- 
ning this way and that way, striving to get out 
of the hollow, till it finally gets to the plain." 

This branch of the Kauterskill comes from the 
waters of the two lakes on the plateau above • 
and, as the supply has to be economized in order 
that the cascades may look their best when they 
have company, the stream is dammed, and the 
fiood is let on at proper times only. For this ser- 
vice, and for the use of the steps, perchance of 
guide also, every visitor pays a toll of 25 cents. 
This is a reasonable although a disagreeable bit 
of prose in the poem of the Catskill Falls. 

We have now peeped at all the usual "sights" 
of the region ; but there are other chapters of 
beauty, perhaps, yet more inviting. Let the 
tourist, if he be adventurous and is a true lover 
of nature, follow the brook down from the base 
of the cataracts we have just described, into tho 
principal clove ; then let him ascend the main 
stream for a mile over huge boulders, through 
rank woods, and many by cascades, which, if 
smaller, are still more picturesque than those 
" nominated in the bond ; " or, let him descend the 
creek, two miles, sometimes by the edge of the 
bed of the waters, and, when that is impr.acti- 
cable, by the turnpike road, which traverses the 
great clove or pass. At every turn and step 
there will be a new picture— sometimes a unique 



102 



NEW TOEK. 



rapid or fall, Bometimes a soaring mountain 
clifl", sometimes a rude bridge across tlie foaming 
torrent, sometimes a little hut or cottage, and, at 
last, as he comes out towards the valley on the 
east, the humble village of Talenville. This por- 
tion of the Catskills is that most preferred by art- 
ists for study, and the inns at Palenville are often 
occupied by them, though they ofler no inviting 
accommodation to the ease and comfort-loving 
toui'ist. 

At one time (when the hemlock -was abundant 
on the mountain sides) this clove was a den of 
tanneries, and a few establishments of the kind 
yet linger here. 

Stony Clove. Another nice excursion 
from the Mountain House, is a ride along the 
ridge, five or six miles, to the entrance of the 
Stony Clove, and thence on foot, or still in your 
vehicle (though the wagon road is execrable), 
through the wilderness of this fine pass. 

Sigb. Peak, the most elevated of the Cats- 
kill summits, towering 4,000 feet towards heaven, 
should certainly be climbed, in order to see the 
region fairly. It is a long and toilsome journey, 
especially for ladies — six miles thither on foot — 
hut we have accompanied the fairest of women 
through the difflculties and dangers of the way. 
Once we " assisted" at a night camp on the very 
crown of High Peak, of a party which included 
a dozen damsels. If they had not been brave, 
as they all were, they would not have deserved 
the glorious stinrise effects, which they saw nev- 
er to be forgot, from their ambitious bivouac. 
Even the Moui.tain House, on its grand perch, 
looked from High Peak like a pigmy in the vale. 

Planterkill Clove is another grand pass 
on the hills, five miles below the Kauterskill 
passage. A mountain torrent, full of beauties 
in glen, and rock, and cascade, winds through it. 
A post-road also traverses the pass. High Peak 
rises on the north of the Plauterkill, and the 
South Mountain, on which is a lovely lake, as- 
cends on the opposite side. It is not yet a scene 
of much resort, being out of the very convenient 
reach of the Mountain House, and having no ho- 
tel attractions in its neighborhood. 

The tourist here will recall with pleasure 
Bryant's dainty poem of the Katterskills, from 
•which we borrow a few lines to end our own in- 
timations — 

"Midst greens and shades the Catterskill leaps 
From cliffs where the wood-tiower clings ; 

All summer he moistens his verdant steeps, 
■\A^ith the light spray of the mountain springs ; 

And he shakes the woods on the mountain side, 
When they drip with the rains of the autumn tide. 

"But when, in the forest hare and old, 
The blast of December calls. 
He builds in the star-light, clear and cold, 
A palace of ice where his torrent falls, 



With turret, and arch, and fretwork faff, 
And pillars clear as the summer air." 

The Cataracts of the CatskiUs in winter, When 
the spray is frozen into a myriad fantastic forms, 
all glowing like^he prism, as the clear cold sun- 
light reveals these mystical wonders, Is a sight 
so grand and novel as to well repay the exposure 
and fatigue of a visit thither through bleak Jan- 
uary's snows and ice. 

The Mountain House is then closed, but Mr. 
Scutt inhabits his Laurel Inn all the year, wo 
believe. This is a hint to the -enthusiast in the 
search for the strange and beautiful in Nature. 
Most tourists will care to see the CatskiUs only 
in July or August. 

Charges at the Mountain House are, as in 
most of the fashionable summer resorts in the 
United States, $2.50 per day. At the Laurel 
Inn, by the High Falls, about half that price, 
we believe. 

Stages will take you back to Catskill village, 
as they have brought you thence, in season for 
steamboats and railways, for elsewhere. 

To visit the Catskills comfortably, three days 
will suffice for the journey thence by rail from 
New York, for the stay and the return to the 
city. Not less than four, however, ought to bo 
thus invested, if one would make sure of a satis- 
factory dividend ; and if a week is at command, 
so much the happier he who commands it. 



NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 

Via Harlem Railroad. 

This route extends from the heart of the city 
of New York to the State capital, skirting in its 
course the eastern portions of all those counties 
lying upon the Hudson and traversed by the 
river railway. The distance between the termi- 
ni is 154 miles, a few miles longer than that of 
the Hudson River. Time, about the same. The 
stations and towns upon the Harlem Road are, 
for the most part, inconsiderable places, many 
of them having grown up with the road. The 
country passed through is varied and picturesque 
in surface, and much of it is rich agricultural 
land. It does not compare with the river route 
in scenic attractions. 



STATIONS. 

New York— corner of White and Centre 
streets — Yorkville, 6 miles ; Harlem, 7 ; Mott 
Haven, 8 ; Melrose, 9 ; Morrisania, 10 ; Tremont, 
11 ; Fordham, 12 ; Williams Bridge, 14 ; (Junc- 
tion of the N. Y. and N. Haven Road) Hunt's 



NEW YOEK. 



103 



Bridge, 16 ; Bronxville, 18 ; Tuckalioe, 19 ; 
Scarsdale, 22 •, Hart's Corners, 24 ; "White 
Plains, 26 ; Kensico, 29 ; Unionville, 31 ; Pleas- 
antville, 34 ; Cliapequa, 36 ; Mount Kisco, 40 ; 
Bedford, 42 ; Whitlockville, 45 ; Golden Bridge, 
47 ; Purdy's, 49 ; Croton Falls, 51 ; Brewster's, 
55 ; Dylimaii'e, 58 ; Towner's, 61 ; Patterson's, 
63 ; Pawling's, 67 ; South Dover, 73 ; Dover Fur- 
nace, 76 ; Dover Plains, 80 ; Wassaic, 84 ; 
Amenia, 88 ; Sharon Station, 91 ; Millerton, 96 ; 
Mount Riga, 99 ; Boston Corners, 103 ; Copake, 
108 ; Hillsdale, 112 ; Bains, 115 ; Martindale, 
118; Philmont, 122; Ghent, 128; Chatham 
Four Corners, 130 ; (Junction with railway 
route from Albany and from Hudson, for Bos- 
ton) East Albany, 153 miles. 

All the stations from New York to "White 
Plains (26 miles) are suburban, being escape- 
valves of the overgrown population of the city, 
where the business of the principal part of their 
population lies, and to which they go daily by 
the railway. Many of the villages are pictu- 
resque, pleasant, and prosperous. 

On leaving the city streets, the road passes 
under a considerable extent of tunnelling and 
continued bridging across thoroughfares over- 
head, making merry diversion for the passen- 
gers. At the extremity of the Island and city 
of New York at Harlem, the road crosses the 
Harlem River into "Westchester County. 

"White Plains ("Westchester County), is in- 
teresting as the scene of important events in the 
Revolution. An eventful battle was fought 
here, October 28, 1776. A residence of "Wash- 
ington) in which are some attractive relics) is yet 
standing in the vicinage. 

Croton Falls, upon the river which sup- 
plies the great Croton Aqueduct to the city of 
New York. 

Liake Mahopac. Passengers for Lake Ma- 
hopac take stage thence (distance two hours) at 
the Croton Falls Station. See " Lake Ma- 
hopac." 

Dover Plains, 20 miles east of Poughkeep- 
sie, is surrounded Dy much pleasing landscape. 

For Albany, and routes thence by Hudson 
River and the river railway, see Index. 

Saratog-a Springs.— Hotels :— The most 
desirable hotels at Saratoga are the United 
States., the Union Hall, Congress Hall, and the 
Clarendon. Besides this famous quartette of 
houses, there are many of less fashion and 
price, besides numerous private boarding-houses, 
where one may live quietly at a moderate cost. 
The hotels which we have named have each ac- 
commodations for sis or seven hundred guests, 
for all of which the demand is more than ample. 
Fine bands of music discourBO on the broad, 



shady piazzas, and in the ball-rooms, at the din- 
ner and evening hours. The Clarendon is a now 
spacious house, just erected in the heart of the 
village. 

From Boston by the "Western Railway, 200 
miles to Albany ; or, from New York, by the 
Hudson River line or steamboats, 144 miles to 
Albany, or 150 miles to Troy. From either 
place, by the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway, 
through Ballston Springs. Journeying from 
New York by water, the traveller may pass 
pleasantly up the river, during the night, break- 
fast in Albany or Troy, and reach the Springs in 
good season next morning. 

The little ride from Troy to the Spring* is 
a most agreeable one, as the route crosses and 
follows the Hudson and the Mohawk Rivers, as 
it passes "Waterford at the meeting of these 
waters, four miles above Troy, and near the 
Cohoes Falls, a much-admired and frequented 
resort upon the Mohawk, as it thence continues 
upon the west bank of the Hudson, eight miles 
further to Meohaniosvillo. It afterwards crosses 
the canal, passes Round Lake, and enters Ball- 
ston Springs. 

During the summer, a car on the Hudson 
River express trains from New York passes 
through to the Springs without change. Passen- 
gers via Albany for the Springs change cars at 
Albany. 

Ballston Spa is upon the Kayaderosseros 
Creek, a small stream which flows through the 
village, 25 miles from Troy. Its mineral waters, 
which were discovered in 1769, are celebrated 
for their medicinal qualities, although not so 
popular as they were formerly, those of Saratoga 
being now generally preferred. The Sans Souci 
Hotel is a pleasant house near the centre of the 
village. 

Five miles distant is Long Lake, a resort of 
the angler, Saratoga Lake is six miles from 
Ballston. 

Saratoga has been for many years, and still 
is, and probably always will be, the most famous 
place of summer resort in the United States, 
frequented by Americans from all sections, and 
by foreign tourists from all climates. During 
the height of the fashionable season no less than 
two or three thousand arrivals occur within a 
week. There is nothing remarkable about the 
topography or scenery of Saratoga ; on the con- 
trary, the spot would be uninteresting enough 
but for the virtues of its waters and the pleasures 
of its brilliant society. The village streets, how- 
ever, are gratefully shaded by fine trees, and a 
little " let up " in the gay whirl may be got on the 
walks and lawns of the pretty rural cemetery 
close by. 

The health-giving Springs of which the fame of 



104 



NEW TOIJK. 



Saratoga has been bora, however much Fashion 
may have since nursed it, are all in or very near 
the village. There are many diitlerent waters in 
present use, but the most sought after of all are 
those ot the Congress Spring, of which Dr. Chil- 
ton gives us an analysis thus :— One gallon, of 231 
cubic inches, chloride of sodium, 363.S29 grains ; 
carbonate of soda, 7.200 ; carbonate of lime, 86.143; 
carbonate of magnesia, 78.621 ; carbonate of iron, 
.841 ; sulphate of soda, .651 ; iodine of sodium 
and bromide of potassium, 5.920 ; eilica, .472 ; 
alumina, .321 ; total, 543.998 grains. Carbonic 
acid, 284.65 ; atmospheric air, 5.41 ; making 
290.06 inches of gaseous contents. 

This Spring was discovered iu 1792, though it 
was long before known to and esteemed by the 
Indians. 

After the Congress waters, which are bottled 
and sent all over the world, as everybody knows, 
the Springs most in favor and use at Saratoga 
are the Empire, the Columbian, the High Rock, 
the Iodine, the PavUion and Putnam's. The 
Empire Spring, the most northerly one in the 
village, has grown greatly in repute of late years. 
So far its landscape surroundings have received 
but poor attention. The High Rock Spring, not 
far from the Empire, is much esteemed both for 
its medical virtues and for the curious character 
of the rock from which it issues, and after which 
it is named. This singular rock has been formed 
by the accumulated deposits of the mineral sub- 
stances (magnesia, lime and iron) held in solution 
by the carbonic acid gas of the Springs. The 
circumference of the rock, at the surface of the 
ground, is 24 feet 4 inches, its height Si feet, 
with an aperture of nearly one foot diame- 
ter. 

The Alpha and the Omega of the daily Sarato- 
ga programme, is to drink and to dance— the one 
iu the earliest possible morning, and the other 
at the latest conceivable night. Among the out- 
side diversions is a Jaunt to Saratoga Lake, a 
pleasant water six miles away. Here they have 
nice boating fun, and sometimes "make believe" 
to fish. This lake is nine miles in length and 
very near three in width. The marshes around 
it prevent access, except here and there. Snake 
Hill steps into the water, and lifts up its head 40 
feet or so, upon the eastern side of the lake. 

A visit to Lake George, 28 miles distant, by 
rail and plank road, is a delightful episode and 
variation in Saratoga life. Sec Lake George. 

Liake Georg-e.— Hotels :— The Fort William 
Henry Hotel and the Lake House, at the south 
end of the lake (Caldwell's). 

The route from New York, Boston, and the 
VVest, to Lake George, is through Saratoga, and 



thus far is the same as to that point ; thence to 
Moreau station, 15 miles, by the Troy and 
Whitehall line, and from there to Caldwell, at 
the south end or head of the lake, by plank 
road. 

Glen's Palls, in the upper Hudson, is on 
the way, nine miles from the lake. The wild 
and rugged landscape is in striking contrast with 
the general air of the country below— there, quiet 
pastoral lands ; here, rugged rock and rushing 
cataract. This is a spot trebly interesting, from 
its natural, its poetical, and its historical charac- 
ter. The passage of the river is through a rude 
ravine, in a mad descent of 75 feet over a rocky 
precipice 900 feet in length. Within the roar of 
these cataracts were laid some of the scenes in 
Cooper's story of the " Last of the Mohicans." 
They are gently associated with our romantic 
memories of Uncas and Hawk's Eye, David, 
Duncan Haywood and hie sweet wards, Alice 
and Cora Monroe. 

When within four miles of the lake, we pass a 
dark glen, in which lie hidden the storied waters 
of Bloody Pond, and close by is the historic old 
boulder, remembered as Williams' Hotk. Near 
this last-namedspot, Colon el Williams was killed 
in an engagement with the French and Indians, 
Sept. 8, 1755. The slain in this unfortunate bat- 
tle were cast into the waters near by, since called 
Bloody Pond. It is now quiet enough, under its 
surface of slime and dank lihes. 

The tirst broad view of the beautiful lake, 
seen suddenly as our way brings us to the brink 
of the high lands, above which we have thus far 
travelled, is of surpassing beauty, scarcely ex- 
ceeded by the thousand-and-one marvels of de- 
light which we afterwards enjoy in all the long 
traverse of the famous waters. 

Our road now descends to the shore, the 
gleaming floods and the blue cMtfs of Horicon 
still, ever and anon, filling our charmed eye. We 
halt at the Lake House at Caldwell village, or at 
the Fort William Henry Hotel, a new and ele- 
gant establishment near by, at the ruins of the 
Old Fort, on the right. 

About a mile south-east from the site of Fort 
William Henry are the ruins of Fort George. 
These localities are seen from the piazza of the 
Lake House, which commands also a flue view 
of the French Mountain and Rattle-Snake Hill, 
and of the islands and hills down the lake. 

The passage of Lake George, 36 miles, to the 
landing near the village of Ticonderoga, and four 
miles from the venerable ruins of Fort Ticonde- 
roga, on Lake Champlain, is made by steamboat,* 

* The "John Jay," -which has plied the waters of Lake 
George for some years past, was destroyed by fire in the 
summer of 1856, opposite Garfield's, near Sabbath Day 
Point. 



NEW TOEK. 



105 



tlie trip down to the Fort and back occupying 
the day very deliy;htfiilly. 

Leaving Caldwell after breakfast, wc proceed 
on our voyage down the lake. The first spot of 
especial interest which we pasa ia Diamond 
Island, in front of Dunham Bay. Here, in 1777, 
was a military depot of Burgoyne's army, and a 
skirmish between the garrison and a detachment 
of American troops. 

North of Diamond Isle, lies Long Island, in 
front of Long Point, which extends into the lake 
from the east. Harris Bay lies between the 
north side of this Point and the mountains. In 
this bay Montcalm moored his boats and landed, 
in 1757. 

Dome Island is passed, in the centre of the 
lake, some 12 miles north of Caldwell. Put- 
nam's men took shelter here while he went to 
apprise General Webb of the movements of the 
enemy, at the mouth of the North-West bay. 
This bay lies in one of the most beautiful parts 
of Lake George, just beyond Bolton Landing, 
where there is an inviting place of sojourn called 
the " Mohican House." The bay extends up on 
the west of the Tongue Mountain some five 
miles. On the east side of the bay, the Tongue 
Mountain comes in literally like a tongue of the 
lake, into the centre of which it seems to pro- 
trude, with the bay on one side and the main 
passage of the waters on the other. On the right 
or east shore, in the neighborhood, and just as we 
reach the Tongue and enter the " Narrows," is 
the bold semicircular palisades called Shelving 
Rock. Passing this picturesque fe.ature of the 
landscape, and, afterwards, of the point of the 
Tongue Mountain, we enter the Narrows at the 
base of the boldest and loftiest shores of Hori- 
con. The chief peak of the hills here is that of 
Black Mountain, with an altitude of 2,200 feet. 
The islands are numerous, though many of them 
are merely peeps out of the water. The best 
fishing-grounds of Lake George are in that part 
of the waters which we have already passed, in 
the vicinity of Bolton Landing, Shelving Rock, 
and thence to Caldwell, though fine trout and 
bass are freely caught from one end of the lake 
to the other. 

Sabbath. Day Point. Kmerging from the 
Narrows, on the north, Ave approach a long pro- 
jecting strip of fertile land, called Sabbath Day 
Point— so named, 15y General Abercrombie, from 
his having emijarkcd his army on the sjiot on 
Sunday morning, after a halt for the preceding 
night. The spot is remembered, also, as the 
scene of a fight, in 1756, between the colonists 
and a party of French and Indians. The former, 
sorely j)ressed, and unable to escape across the 
lake, made a bold defence and defeated the ene- 
my, killing very many of their men. Yet, again, 

5* 



in 1776, Sabbath Day Point was the scene of a 
battle between some American militia and a 
party of Indians and Tories, when the latter 
were repulsed, and some 40 of their number 
were killed and wounded. This part of Horicon 
is even more charming in its pictures, both up 
and down the lake, than it is in its numerous 
historical reminiscences. On a calm sunny day 
the romantic passage of the Narrows, as seen to 
the southward, is wonderfully fine ; while, in the 
opposite direction, the broad bay, entered as the 
boat passes Sabbath Day Point, and the summer 
landing and hotel at " Garfield's,'" are soon to be 
abruptly closed on the north by the huge preci- 
pices of Anthony's Nose on the riglit, and Ro- 
gers' Slide on the left. This pass is not unlike 
that of the Highlands of the Hudson as ap- 
proached from the south. 

Kogers' Slide is a rugged promontory, 
about 400 feet high, with a steep face of bare 
rock, down which the Indians, to their great be- 
wilderment, supposed the bold ranger, Major 
Rogers, to have passed, when they pursued him 
to the brink of the precipice. 

Two miles beyond is Prisoner's Island, where, 
during the French war, those taken captive by 
the English were confined ; and directly west is 
Lord Howe's Point, where the English army, 
under Lord Howe, consisting of 16,000 men, 
landed previous to the attack on Ticonderoga. 
We now approach the termination of our excur- 
sion on this beautiful lake, and in a mile reach 
the steamboat landing near the village of Ticon- 
deroga, whence stages run a distance of three 
miles, over a rough and romantic road, to Fort 
Ticonderoga — following the wild course of the 
passage by which Horicon reaches the waters 
of Lake Champlain — a passage full of bold ra- 
pids and striking cascades. 

After exploring the picturesque ruins of the 
ancient fort, and dining satisfactorily at the 
excellent hotel, which stands upon the marge of 
a beautiful lawn, sloping to the Champlain shore, 
our stage will take us back to the landing wo 
have left on Lake George, and our steamboat 
thence to Caldwell again, in time for tea and a 
moonlight row among the countless green isles ; 
or we may take the Champlain boat to White- 
hall ; or from Wliitehall en route for Canada. 

Port Ticonderog'a, of which the ruins 
only are visible, was erected by the French in 
1756, and called by them " Carrillon." It was 
originally a place of much strength ; its natural 
advantages were very great, being surrounded 
on three sides by water, and having half its 
fourth covered by a swamp, and the only point 
by which it could be approached, bj' a breast- 
work. It was afterwards, however, easily re- 
duced, by an expedient adopted by General Bur- 



106 



NEW TOEK. 



goyne— that of placing a piece of artillery on the 
pinnacle of Mount Defiance, on the south side 
of the Lake George outlet, and 750 feet above 
the lake, and entirely commanding the fort, 
from which shot was thrown into the midst of 
the enemy's works. Fort Ticonderoga was one 
of the first strongholds taken from the English 
in 1775, at the commencement of the Revolu- 
tionary war. Colonel Ethan Ahen, of Vermont, 
at the head of the Green Mountain Boys, sur- 
prised the unsuspecting garrison, penetrated to 
the very bedside of the commandant, and waking 
him, demanded the surrender of the fort. " In 
whose name, and to whom?" exclaimed the sur- 
prised officer. " In the name of the great Jeho- 
vah, and the Continental Congress !" thundered 
the intrepid Allen, and the fort was immediately 
surrendered. 

NEW YORK TO MONTREAL AND NIA- 
GARA, VIA LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

One of the most delightful of American sum- 
mer tours is from New York, via the Hudson 
River, Lake Champlain, and the St. Lawrence 
River, to the Falls of Niagara, returning by the 
lower routes — the Central or the Erie Railways. 
From Boston and Portland, linos of railroad con- 
nect conveniently with the St. Lawrence routes. 
A thousand places and objects of interest fall 
mthin the direct line of this journey ; besides 
which, it has many alluring asides, which may 
be readily reached. 

From Portland, Maine, take the Grand Trunk 
Route, to Montreal (or to Quebec) ; from Bos- 
ton, take the Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Rotttes. 

From New York, take the Hudson River 
Route, which we have already travelled, to Al- 
bany or Troy ; thence, by rail, via Saratoga 
Springs, to Whitehall, at the southern extremity 
of Lake Champlain. We resume the programme 
at Moreau Station, on this line, to which point 
we have already followed it in our visit to Lake 
George. At Ticonderoga, above, on Lake Cham- 
plain, we shall meet those who prefer, as many 
do, to pursue the jotn-ney to that point by the 
way of Lake George, instead of via Whitehall 
and the lower end of Champlain. 

To Whitehall the country is exceedingly at- 
tractive, mtioh of the way, in its quiet, sunny 
valley beauty, watered by pleasant streams, and 
environed, in the distance, by picturesque hUls. 
The Champlain Canal is a continual object of 
interest by the way ; and there are, also, as in all 
the long journey before us, everywhere spots 
of deep historic charm, if we could tarry to read 
their stories — of the memorable incidents which 
they witnessed, both in the French and Indian, 



and afterwards in the Revolutionary war. In the 
valley regions of the Hudson, which lie between 
Albany and Lake Champlain, are many scenes 
famous for the struggles between the Colonists 
and Great Britain— the battle-grounds of Bemis 
Heights and Sfillwater (villages of the Upper 
Hudson), and of Saratoga, which ended in the 
defeat of Burgoyne and his army. Then there 
is the tale of the melancholy fate of Jane M' Crea, 
so cruelly murdered by the Indians at Fort Ed- 
ward ; and many histories, which it is pleasant 
to recall, ever so vaguely, as we pass along. 

■WMtehall.— Hotels :— 

Whitehall was a point of much consideration 
during the French and Indian war, and through 
the Revolution. In former times it was called 
Skenesborough. It is at the south end or the 
head of Lake Champlain, within a rude rocky 
ravine, at the foot of Skene's Mountain. Its 
position, as a meeting-place of great highways 
of travel, has made it quite a bustling and pros- 
perous village. There is nothing in tlie vicinage, 
however, to delay the traveller. From White- 
hall our journey lies down Lake Champlain, 156 
miles, to St. John's, though we might, instead, 
go by railway through Vermont, via Castleton, 
Rutland, Burlington, &o., to Rouse's Point, and 
thence, still by railway, to Montreal. 

The narrowness of the lower part of Lake 
Champlain gives it much more of a river than 
lake air. For 20 miles the average breadth does 
not exceed half a mile ; and, at one point, it is 
not more than 40 rods across. However it grows 
wide enough as we pass Ticonderoga, where 
passengers by the Lake George (fe'towr are picked 
up, and in the vicinity of Burlington there are 
too many broad miles between the shores for 
picturesque uses. Whether it is broad though 
or narrow, the voyage, in large and admirable 
boats, over its motmtain-environed waters, is 
always a pleasure to be greatly enjoj-ed and 
happily remembered. On the east rise the bare 
peaks of the Green Hills of Vermont, the bold 
Camel's Hump leading all the long line ; and on 
the west are the still more varied summits and 
ridges of the Adirondack Mountains in New 
York. 

Mount Independence lies in Vermont, 
opposite Ticonderoga, about a mile distant. 
The remains of military works are still visible 
here. — Mount Hope, an elevation abottt a mile 
north from Ticonderoga, was occupied by Gen- 
eral Burgoyne previous to the recapture of Ti- 
conderoga, which took place in 1777, nearly two 
5-ears after its surrender to the gallant Allen. 
St. Clair, the American commander, being 
forced to evacuate, it again fell into the posses- 



NEW YORK. 



107 



Bion of tho British, and was held during the 
■war. 

Not far above, and upon the opposite ehore, is 
the -village of Grown Point ; and, just beyond, 
the picturesque and -well-preserved ruins of the 
fortifications of the same name. Opposite is 
Chimnej' Point ; and, just above, on the left, at 
the mouth of Bul-svaggy Bay, is Port Henry. 

B-urlingrton. — Hotels: — Tho American ; the 
Lake House. 

Burlington, the largest to-wn on the lake, is 
upon the eastern or Vermont shore, about mid- 
-way bet-ween Whitehall and St. Johns. Rising 
gradually to an elevation of several hundred feet, 
it is imposiugly seen from the -water. It is the 
seat of the University of Vermont, and is a place 
of much commercial importance, connected by 
rail-ways -with all parts of the country. Across 
the lake is 

Port Kent, from -which vicinity, -whether on 
land or on water, the landscape in every direc- 
tion is exceedingly striking and beautiful. 

Th.e Walled Banks of the Ausable. 
The remarkable Walled Banks of the Ausable 
are a mile or two west of Port Kent, on the way 
to the manufacturing village of Keeseville. 

It is at the Ausable House, an excellent sum- 
mer hotel in the picturesque village of Keese- 
ville, that the traveller will establish himself, if 
he would visit this wonderful ravine, with its 
grand walls and its rushing waters. The Falls 
of the Ausable, though they are but little 
known as yet, wUl one day be esteemed among 
the chief natural wonders of the country. 

Plattsburg.— Hotels :— '^Fouquefs" 

Above and opposite Burlington is the pleasant 
village of Plattsburg, where the Sarauao river 
comes in from its lake-dotted home, at the edge 
of the great wilderness of northern Kew York, 
SO miles westward. 

Battle of Lake Champlain. Plattsburg 
was the scene of the victory of M'Donough and 
Macomb over the British naval and land forces, 
under Commodore Downie and Sir George Pro- 
vost. Here the American commodore await- 
ed at anchor the arrival of the British fleet, 
which passed Cumberland Head about eight in 
the morning of the 11th September, 1814. The 
tirst gun from the fleet was the signal for com- 
mencing the attack on land. Sir George Pro- 
vost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted 
♦he defences of the town, whilst the battle raged 
between the fleets, in full view of the armies. 
General Macomb, with about 3,000 men, mostly 
-undisciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the 
enemy ; -until the capture of the British fleet, 



after an action of two hours, obliged him to re- 
tire, with the loss of 2,500 men and a large por- 
tion of his baggage and ammunition. Here we 
might land and take the Plattsburg and Mon- 
treal Railway, 62 miles direct to Montreal. 

House's Point, on the west side of tho 
lake, is the last landing-place before wo enter 
Canada. Railwaj's from the Eastern States, 
through Vermont, come in here, and are pro- 
longed by the Champlain and St. Lawrence 
road to Montreal. If the traveller towards.Ca- 
nada continues his journey, neither via Platts- 
burg nor Rouse's Point, he may go on by steam- 
boat to the head of navigation on these waters 
to St. Johns, and thence by Laohine to Mon- 
treal. 

See Canada for the tour of the St. Lawrence 
and Lake Ontario from Montreal to Niagara. 

NEW YORK TO TRENTON FALLS. 

Via Hudson River to Albany, thence by the New 
York Cetitral Railroad as far as tjtica, and 
thence, over a plank road, or by railroad, 15 
iniles. 

Trenton Falls, snys Mr. Willis, "is the 
most enjoyably beautiful spot among the resorts 
of romantic scenery in our country. The re- 
membrance of its loveliness becomes a bright 
point, to which dream and reverie oftenest re- 
turn. It seems to be curiously adapted to enjoy, 
being somehow, not only the kind but the size of 
a place which the (after all) measurable arms of 
a mortal heart can hold in its embrace. Niagara 
is too much as a roasted ox is, a thing to go and 
look at, though one retires to dine on something 
smaller." 

Trenton Falls is the place, above all others, 
where it is a luxury to stay — which one oftenest 
revisits, which one most commends to strangers 
to be sure to see. 

" In the long corridor of travel between New 
York and Niagara, Trenton," Mr. Willis says 
again, " is a sort of alcove aside — a side-scene 
out of earshot of the crowd — a recess in a win- 
dow, whither you draw a friend by the button 
for the sake of chit-chat at ease." 

Trenton Falls is rather a misnomer, for the 
wonder of nature which bears the name is a tre- 
mendous torrent, whose bed, for several miles,- 
is sunk fathoms deep into the earth — a roaring 
and dashing- stream, so far below the surface of 
the forest, in which it is lost, that you would 
think, as you come suddenly upon the edge of 
its long precipice, that it was a river in some 
inner world (coiled within ours, as we in the 
outer circle of the firmament), and laid open by 
some Titanic throe that had cracked clear 
asunder the crust of this " shallow earth." The 



108 



KEW TOEK. 



idea is rather assisted if j-ou happen to see below 
you, on its abysmal shore, a party of adven- 
turous travellers ; for at that vast depth, and in 
contrast with the gigantic trees and rooks, the 
same number of ■well-sbaped pismires, dressed 
in the last fashion, and philandering upon your 
parlor floor, would be about of their apparent 
size and distinctness. 

Trenton Falls are upon the "West Canada 
Creek, a branch of the Mohawk. The descent 
of the stream, 312 feet in a distance of two miles, 
is by a series of half a dozen catai'acts, of won- 
derful variety and beauty. Every facility of 
path and stairway, and guide, for the tour of the 
Trenton ravine has been provided by Mr. Moore, 
who has for many years resided on the spot, and 
been always its Prospero, and its favorite host. 
A walk of a few rods through the woods 
brings the visitor to the brink of the precipice, 
descended by secure stairways for some hundred 
feet. 

The landing is a broad pavement, level with 
the water's edge, often, in times of freshet, the 
bed of foamuig floods. Here is commanded a 
fine view of the outlet of the chasm, 45 rods be- 
low, and also of the first cascade, 37 rods up the 
stream. 

The parapet of the First Fall, visible from the 
foot of the stairs, is, in dry times, a naked per- 
pendicular rook, 33 feet high, apparently extend- 
ing quite across the chasm, the water retiring to 
the left, and being hid from the eye by interven- 
ing prominences. But in freshets, or after rain 
it foams over, from the one side of the gorge to 
the other, in a broad amber sheet. A pathway to 
this fall has been blasted at a considerable cost, 
imder an overhanging rock and around an ex- 
tensive projection, directly beneath which rages 
and roars a most violent rapid. The passage, 
though at first of dangerous aspect, is made se- 
cure bj' chains well riveted in the rocky wall. 
In the midst of this projection, five tons were 
thrown over by a fortunate blast, aflbrding a 
perfectly level and broad space, where 15 or 20 
persons may find ample footing, and command 
a noble view of the entire scene. A little to the 
left, the rapid commences its wild career. Di- 
rectly underneath, it rages and foams with great 
fury, forcing a tortuous passage into the expand- 
ed stream on the right. In front is a projection 
from the other side, curved to a concavity of a 
semicircle by the impetuous waters. The top 
of this projection has been swept aw.ay, and is 
entirely flat, exhibiting from its surface do^vn- 
wards, the separate strata as regular and dis- 
tinct, and as horizontal as mason-work in the 
lock of the grand canal. Here, in the old time, 
was a lofty fall, now reduced to the rapid we have 
described. 



Beyond, massive rocks, thrown over in flood 
times, lie piled up in the middle of the river. 
Passing to the left, yet a few rods above, we 
come into the presence of Sherman's Fall, so 
named in memory of the Eev. Mr. Sherman, 
whose account of the spot we are now closely 
following. He was one of the earliest pioneers 
of the Trenton beauties, .and it was by him tliat 
the first house, caUed the "Rural Resort," for 
the accommodation of visitors, was built. It 
has formed an immense excavation, having 
thrown out thousands of tons from the parapet 
rock, visible at the stairs, and is annually forcing 
oQ" slabs at the west corner, against which it in- 
cessantly forces a section of its powerful sheet. 
A naked mass of rock, extending up 150 feet, 
juts frowningly forward, which is ascended by 
natural steps to a point from which the visitor 
looks securely down upon the rushing waters. 

Leaving this rocky shelf, and passing a wild 
rapid, we come suddenly in sight of the High 
Falls, 40 rods beyond. This cascade has a per- 
pendicular descent of 100 feet, while the cliff's on 
either side, rise some 80 feet yet higher. The 
whole body of water makes its way at this point 
— divided by inteiwening ledges into separate 
cataracts, which fall first about 40 feet, then re- 
uniting on a flat below, and veering suddenly 
around an inclination of rocky steps, they i^lunge 
into the dark caldron beneath. 

Passing up at the side, we mount a grand level, 
where in dry times the stream retires to the 
right and opens a wide pavement for a large 
party to walk abreast. Here a flight of stairs 
leads to a refreshment house, called the Rural 
retreat, 20 feet above the summit of the High 
Falls. 

The opening of the chasm now becomes con- 
siderably enlarged, and a new variety of scene 
occurs. Mill Dam Fall, 14 feet high, lies some 
distance beyond, reaching across the whole 
breadth of the chasm. 

Ascending this Fall, the visitor comes to a still 
larger platform of level rock, 15 rods wide at 
low water, and 90 in length, lined on each side 
by cedars. At the extremity of this locality, 
which is known as the Alhambra, a bare rock 
50 feet in height reaches gradually forward from 
the mid-distance ; and, from its shelving top, 
there descends a perpetual rill, which forms a 
natural shower-bath. A wild cataract fills the 
picture on the left. 

Here the wide opening suddenly contracts, and 
a narrow aperture only remains, with vistas of 
winding mountain, cliff and crag. Near by is a 
dark basin, where the waters rest from the tur- 
moil of the wild cascade above. In this vicin- 
age is an amphitheatre of seemingly impossible 
access, replete with even new surprises and de- 



KEW YORK. 



109 



lights. Yet Ijeyond is the Rocky Henrt, the 
point a,t which tiie traverse of the ravine usually 
ends, though despite the difficulties and dangers 
of the way, even ladies frequently penetrate be- 
yond as far as the falls at Boon's Bridge, the ter- 
minus of the gorge. 

The scene at Trenton varies much, according 
as drought or freshet dries or fills the stream, 
and passages are easy enough at one time, which 
are utterly impracticable at others. It is diflS- 
cult to say when the glon is the most beautiful, 
whether with much or with little water. 

Trout once inhabited these waters, but they 
are gone now. Game, too, is scarce in the vicin- 
age, though partridges, wild ducks, snipes, black 
and gray squirrels, woodcock, and the rabbit 
may yet be taken. Trenton is a spot for a long 
sojourn, though it may be run over pleasantly in 
a day. 

NEW YORK TO BUFFALO. 

To Albany by the Hudson River, 144 miles, 
and thence by the New York Central — a chain 
of railways 29S miles. 

This great route traverses, from east to west, 
the entire length of the Empire State. It has 
two termini at the eastern end, one at Albany 
and the other at Troy, which meet, after 17 miles, 
at Schenectady. It then continues, in one line, 
to Syracuse, 148 miles from Albany ; when it is 
again a double route for the remainder of the 
way ; the lower line being looped up to the other 
about midway, between Syracuse and Buffalo, 
at Rochester. The upper route is the more direct, 
and the one which we shall now follow. The 
great Erie Canal traverses the State of New 
York from Albany to Buffalo, nearly on tlie 
same line with the Central, Railroad. 

Trains leave Albany and Troy for Buifalo 
and all points west to the Mississippi and be- 
yond, on the arrival there of the cars»from the 
south, east, and north — New York, Boston, and 
Canada. 

Sclienectady.— Hotels :— Given's Hotel. 

At Schenectady the railways from Albany and 
Troy meet, and the Saratoga route diverges. 
Schenectady is upon the bank of tho Mohawk. 
It is one of the oldest towns in the State, and is 
distinguished as tlie seat of Union College. The 
council-grounds of the Mohawks were once on 
this spot. In the winter of 1690, a party of two 
hundred Frenchmen and Canadians, and fifty 
Indians, fell at midnight upon Schenectady, 
killed and made captive its people, and burned 
the village to ashes. Sixty-nine persons were 
then massacred and twenty-seven were made 



l^risoners. The church and sixty-three houses 
were destroyed. It was afterwards taken in the 
French war of 1748, when about seventy people 
were put to death. 

Leaving Scheneotadj'', the road crosses the Mo- 
hawk River and the Erie Canal, upon a bridge 
nearly one thousand feet in length. 

At Palatine Bridg-e, 55 miles from Albany, 
passengers for Sharon Springs leave the road 
and proceed by stage. See Sharon Springs. 

At Fort Plain, 68 miles from Albany, pas- 
sengers for Otsego Lake, Cooperstown, and 
Cherry Valley, proceed by stage. 

Little Falls is remarkable for a bold pas- 
sage of the Mohawk River and the Erie Canal 
through a wild and most picturesque defile. Tho 
scenery, with the river rapids and cascades, the 
looks and windings of the canal, the bridges, and 
the glimpses, far awaj', of the valley of the Mo- 
hawk, Is especially beautiful. 

TJtica. — Hotels :— Bagg's, connected with 
the Railway Depot. 

At Utica, 95 miles from Albany, a railway and 
canal come in from Binghamton, on the line of 
the Erie Road. Here passengers leave for Tren- 
ton Falls (see Trenton Falls), 15 miles distant. 
Utica is a large and thriving place, with many 
fine public and private buildings. It is built 
upon thQ site of old Fort Schuyler, and has now 
a population of over 22,000. 

Syractise.— Hotels :—T%e Globe, the Si/ra- 
ciise, and the Onondaga. 

At Syracuse, 148 miles from Albany, tho 
Central Road connects by rail with Bingham- 
ton on the Erie route, and with Oswego, north- 
ward. The most extensive salt manufactories 
in the United States are found here. It is fa- 
mous, too, as the meeting-place of State political 
and other conventions. Syracuse is a large and 
elegant city, with a population of over 28,000. 

Auburn. — Hotels :— The American. 

This important city is near Owasco Lake, a 
beautiful water, 12 miles long. It is the seat of 
the Auburn State Prison. 

Skaneateles is five miles distant, by a 
branch railway, at the foot of Skaneateles Lake, 
a charming water, 16 miles long, with pictur- 
esque shores, and good supplies of trout and 
other fish. 

Cayug-a is a pleasant village upon tho east- 
ern shore of Cayuga Lake. Ithaca is 38 miles 
off, at the other extremity of ttie Lake. These 
fine waters are traversed daily by steamboat, 



110 



NEW YOEK. 



connecting Cayuga witli Ithaca, and by rail-way ' 
•with Oswego, on the New York and Erie 
route. 

Geneva is upon Seneca Lake, one of the 
largest and most beautiful of the many lakes of 
western New York. It is 40 miles long, and 
from two to four wide. Steamboats connect its 
towns and villages with the great routes of 
travel. The Hobart Free College, under the di- 
rection of the Episcopalians, is here ; also the 
Medical Institute of Geneva College and the 
Geneva Union School. 

Canandaigrua is a beautiful village, at the 
north end of Canandaigua Lake. The railroad 
from Elmira, on the New York and Erie route 
to Niagara Falls, passes through Canandaigua. 
The lake is about 15 miles in length, and is well 
Btooked with fish. 

Hochester.— Hotels :— The Osborne (new), 
the Eagle, and the Congress Hotels, are among 
the many excellent houses here. 

Eochester is the largest and most important 
city upon our present route, between Albany 
and Buflalo, its popvilation being nearly 45,000. 
It is the seat of the Rochester University, found- 
ed by the Baptists in 1850. There is also here a 
Baptist Theological Seminary, founded in 1850. 
Among its picturesque attractions, are the Falls 
of the Genesee, upon both sides of which river 
the city is built. The Mount Hope Cemetery, 
in the vicinity, is also a spot of much natural 
beauty. 

Eochester is connected by railway -with the 
New York and Erie route at Corning, and with 
Niagara Falls direct, by the Eochester, Lock- 
port, and Niagara Falls division of the New 
York Central Road, and by steamboats, with all 
ports on Lake Ontario. 

The Genesee Falls are seen to the best ad- 
vantage from the east side of the stream. The 
railroad cars pass about one hundred rods south 
of the most southerly fall on the Genesee River, 
60 that passengers in crossing lose the view. 
These falls have three perpendicular pitches and 
two rapids ; the first great cataract is 80 rods be- 
low the aqueduct, the stream plunging perpen- 
dicularly 96 feet. The ledge here recedes up the 
river from the centre to the sides, breaking the 
water into three distinct sheets. 

From Table Rock, in the centre of these falls, 
Bam Patch made his last and fatal leap. The 
river below the first cataract is broad and deep, 
with occasional rapids to the second fall, where 
it again descends perpendicularly 20 feet. Thence 
the river pursues its course, which is noisy, 
Bwift, and rapid, to the third and last fall, over 
which it pours its flood down a perpendicular 



descent of 105 feet. Below this fall are numer- 
ous rapids, which continue to Carthage, the end 
of navigation on the Genesee River from Lake 
Ontario. 

At Eochester the two routes of the Central 
Eoad'unite, and again diverge to reunite at Buf- 
falo. By the upper route the traveller will 
pass through Lockport direct to Niagara, leav- 
ing Buffalo to the south-west. The lower route, 
direct to Buffalo, is intersected at Batavia by the 
Buffalo and Corning Eoad, from Corning on tho 
Erie Railway, via Rochester to Niagara. 

BufFalo.— Hotels : — The American. 

"We have now reached the shores of Lake 
Erie, and are at the end of our route, whence we 
may proceed at our pleasure, by steamboat or 
railway, to any place northward or southward, 
in the Far West ; for Buffalo is the point where 
routes of travel most do meet. 

This important commercial and manufactur- 
ing city has grown so great and so fast, that al- 
though it was laid out as late as 1801, and in 1813 
had oulj' 200 houses, its population now numbers 
nearly 80,000. It is an earnest of the wonderful 
progress which we shall see by and by, when we 
continue our travels hence, towards the further 
West. Stop at the American. 

Niagara Falls. —Hotels : — Upon the 
American side of the river, the Cataract House 
and the International Hotel are most excellent 
homes for the tourist. On the Canada side stop 
at the Clifton. 

Routes. — From New York, via Hudson Eiver 
and Hudson Eiver Eailroad, to Albany, 146 
miles ; from Albany to Buflalo, via N. Y. Cen- 
tral E. E., 298 miles ; from Buffalo, by Bufl^alo, 
Niagara Falls, and Lewiston E. E. (to Niagara), 
22 miles. .Total, 466 miles. 

From New York, via New York and Erie E. 
E., to Buffalo, 422 miles ; Buffalo (as above), by 
Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston R. R. (to 
Niagara), 22 miles. Total, 444 miles. 

From New York, by New York and Erie E. 
E. to Elmira, 273 miles ; from Elmira to Niaga- 
ra, by Elmira, Canandaigua, and Niagara Falls 
E. E., 166 miles. Total, 439 miles. 

Passengers can leave the main N. Y. Central 
Railway (from Albany to Buffalo) at Rochester, 
and take the Rochester, Lockport, and Niagara 
division, 76 miles, thence to Niagara. 

From Neio York to Albany, by Hudson River, 
146 miles ; thence to Troy, 6 miles. Railway 
from Troy to Whitehall, 65 miles ; from White- 
hall by steamer on Lake Champlain, to St. 
Johns, 150 miles ; St, Johns to La Prairie Rail- 



NEW yoke:. 



Ill 



road, 15 miles ; La Prairie, steam'boat on tlie St. 
Lawrenoc to Montreal, 9 milea ; from Montreal 
(Grand Trunk Railroad and other lines to Niag- 
ara), of railroad and steamboat, 436 miles. Total, 
727 miles. 

This great Mecca of the world's worshippers 
of landscape beauty, the mighty wonder of Ni- 
agara, is on its namesake river, a strait connect- 
ing the flood of Lakes Erie and Ontai-io, and di- 
YidiDg a portion of the State of New York on the 
west from the Provinces of Canada. The cata- 
racts thus lie within the territory both of Great 
Britain and of the United States. They are 
some 20 miles below the entrance of the river, at 
the north-east extremity of Lake Erie, and 
about 14 miles above its junction with Lake On- 
tario. 

The waters for which the Niagara is the out- 
let, cover an area of 150,000 square miles — floods 
so grand and inexhaustible as to be utterly un- 
conscious of the loss of the ninety millions of tons 
which they poiu- every hour, through succeeding 
centuries, over these stupendous precipices. 

Fortunately, the most usual approach to Niag- 
ara — that by the American shore — is the best, all 
points considered. " The descent of about 200 
feet, by the staircase, brings the traveller direct- 
ly under the shoulder and edge of the American 
Eall, the most imposing scene, for a single ob- 
ject, that he will ever have witnessed. The 
long column of sparkling water seems, as he 
stands near it, to descend to an immeasurable 
depth, and the bright sea-green curve above has 
the appearance of being set into the sky. The 
tremendous power of the Fall, as well as the 
height, realizes his utmost expectations. He de- 
scends to the water's edge and embarks in a 
ferry-boat, which tosses like an egg-shell on the 
heaving and convulsed water, and in a minute or 
two he finds himself in the face of the vast line 
of the Falls, and sees with surprise that he has 
expended his fullest admiration and astonish- 
ment upon a mere thread of Niagara — the thou- 
sandth part of its wondrous volume and gran- 
deur. From the point where he crosses to Table 
Rock, the line of the Falls is measurable at three- 
quarters of a mile ; and it is this immense extent 
which, more than any other feature, takes the 
traveller by surprise. The tide at the ferry sets 
very strongly down, and the athletic men who 
are employed here keep the boat up against it 
with diflB.culty. Arrived near the opijosite land- 
ing, however, there is a slight counter current, 
and the large rocks near the shore serve as a 
breakwater, behind which the boat runs smooth- 
ly to her mooi'ings." * 



It is from the American side of the river that 
access is had to the hundred points of interest 
and surprise in the famous Goat Island vicinage, 
with its connecting bridges, its views of the 
Rapids, of the Cave of the Winds, of the scene 
of Sam Patch's great leap, and of its bold over- 
topping tower ; and in other neighborhoods of 
the Whirlpool, of the Chasm Tower, and the 
Devil's Hole. 

A totally diflferent and not less wonderful gal- 
lery of natural master-pieces is opened upon the 
Canada shore. The terrible marvels of the Ta- 
ble Rock above, and of Termination Rook behind 
the mighty Horse-Shoe Fall ; the noble pano- 
rama from the piazzas of the Clifton House, the 
Burning Spring, the historical village of Chippe- 
wa, and the battle field of Lundy's Lane ; Ben- 
der's Cave, etc. 

Goat Island. (American side.) — Leaving 
the Cataract House, take the first left-hand 
street, two minutes' walk to the bridge, which 
leads to the toll-gate on Bath Island. This 
bridge is itself an object of curious wonder, in its 
apparently rash and dangerous position. It is, 
however, perfectly safe, and is crossed hourly by 
heavily-laden carriages. 

The Eapids are seen in grand and impres- 
sive aspect on the way to Goat Island. The 
river descends 51 feet in a distance of three-quar- 
ters of a mile by this inextricable turmoil of 
waters. It is one of the most striking incidents 
in the Niagara scenery. Standing on the bridge, 
and gazing thence up the angry torrent, the leap- 
ing crests seem like "a battle-charge of tempes- 
tuous waves animated and infuriated against the 
sky. The rocks, whose soaring points show 
above the surface, seem tormented with some 
supernatural agony, and fling oft' the wild and 
hurried waters, as if with the force of a 
giant's arm. Nearer the plunge of the Fall, 
the Rapids become still more agitated, and 
it is impossible for the spectator to rid him- 
self of the idea that they are conscious of the 
abyss which they are hurrying, and struggle 
back in the very extremity of horror. This pro- 
pensity to invest Niagara with a soul and 
human feedings is a common efiect upon the 
minds of visitors, in every part of its wonderful 
phenomena. The torture of the Rapids, the 
clinging curves with which they embrace the 
small rocky islands that live amid the surge ; 
the sudden calmness at the brow of the cataract, 
and the infernal writhe and whiteness with 
which they reappear, powerless, from the depths 
of the abyss — all seem, to the excited imagina- 
tion of the gazer, like the natural effects of im- 



* This passage is from "American Scenery," and since it traverse the vexed river, and the timid oros» readily upoa 
tras -written a fairy little steamer has been employed to | the grand Suspension Bridge. 



112 



NE-vr TOEK. 



Jiendingf ruin — desperate resolution and fearful 
agony on the minds and frames of mortals." 

Chapin's Island is upon the right of the 
hrfUgc, witliiu a short distance of the American 
Pall. It is named In memory of a workman 
whoso life was imperilled by falling into the 
stream, as he was laboring upon the bridge. 
Mr. Robinson went gallantly and successfully to 
his relief in a skiff. 

The Toll Gate is upon Bath Island, 
where baths, warm and otherwise, are accessi- 
ble at all times to visitors. A fee of 25 cents, 
paid here, gives you the freedom of Goat Ibland, 
during all your stay, be it for the year or less. 
Near this point are Ship and Big Islands. 
There is here a very extensive paper-mill. 

Another small bridge, and we are upon Iris, 
or Goat Island. The only place of habitation 
here is a house at which the traveller can suppiy 
himself with refreshments of all inviting kinds, 
and store his trunks with every variety of sam- 
ples of Indian ingenuity and labor. The place 
is called the Indian Emporium. Three routes 
over the island diverge at this point. The 
principal path followed hy most visitors is that 
to the right, which keeps the best of the sights, 
as Wisdom always does, until the last ; afibrd- 
Ing less striking views of the Falls than do the 
other routes at first, but far surpassing them 
both in its grand revealments at the end. This 
way conducts to the foot of the island, while the 
left-hand path seeks the head, and the middle 
winds across. Taking the right-hand path, 
then, from the Toll Gate, we come, first, 
to the centre Fall, called Tile Cave of the 
■Winds, mid-distance nearly between the 
American and the Horse-Shoo Falls. This won- 
derful scene is best and most securely enjoyed 
from the spacious flat rock beneath. The cave 
is 100 feet high, and of the same extent in 
width. You can pass safely into the recess be- 
hind the water, to a platform beyond. Magical 
rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; some- 
times bows of entire circles and two or three at 
once, delight the vision. 

At the foot of Goat Island the Tliree Profiles is 
an object of curious interest. These profiles, seem- 
ingly some two feet long, are to be seen, one 
directly above the other, as you look across the 
first sheet of water, directly under the lowest 
point of rock. 

liUna Island is reached by a foot bridge, 
from the right of Goat Island. It has an area 
of some three-quarters of an acre. Theeflfective 
rainbow forms, seen at this point, have given 
it the name it bears. The venturesome visitor 
may get some startling peeps far down into the 
great caldron of waters. A child of eight j-ears 
once feU into the torrent at this point, and was 



lost, together -with a gallant lad who jumped in to 
rescue her. 

Sam Patch's Leap.— It was upon the 
west side of Goat Island, near Biddle's Stairs, 
which we shall next look at, that the immortal 
jumper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps 
into the waters below, saying, as he went off, to 
the throng of sjieotators, that " one thing might 
be done as well as another 1" The fellow made 
his jump too much, within the same year (1829), 
over the Genesee Falls, at Kochester. 

Biddle's Stairs, on the west side of the 
island, was named after Nicholas Biddle, of 
United States Bank fame, by whose order they 
were built. " Make ns something," he is report- 
ed to have said to the workmen, " by which we 
may descend and see what is below." At the 
base of these spiral stairs, which are secured to 
the rocks by strong iron fastenings, there are 
two diverging paths. The up river way, towards 
the Horse-Shoe Fall, is ditfloult, and much ob- 
structed by fallen rocks ; but down the current 
a noble view is gained of the centre Fall or Cave 
of the Winds. Reascending the Biddle Stairs, 
we come, after a few rods' travel, to a resting- 
place at a little house, and thence we go down 
the bank, and, crossing a bridge, reach 

Prospect Tcwrer. — The precarious look- 
ing edifice, which seems to have " rushed in, as 
fools do, where angels fear to tread," is very 
near the edge of the precipice, above which it 
rises some 45 feet in air. From the toil, which 
is surrounded by an iron railing, a magnificent 
scene is presented— a panorama of the Niagara 
wonders — the like of which can be seen from no 
other point. 

The Horse-Shoe Palls, which leads the 
host of astonishments in this astonishing place, 
is the connecting link between the scenes of the 
American and of the Canadian sides of the river, 
always marvellous from whatever position it is 
viewed. This mighty cataract is 144 rods across, 
and, it is said by Prof. Lyell, that fifteen hun- 
dred millions of cubic feet of water pass over its 
ledges every hour. One of the condemned lake 
ships (the Detroit) was sent over this Fall in 
1829, and, though she drew 18 feet of water, she 
did not touch the rocks in passing over the brink 
of the precipice, showing a solid body of water, 
at least some 20 feet deep, to be above the ledge. 
We shall return to the H^irse-Shoe Fall from the 
Canada side. 

Gull Island, just above, is an tmapproacha 
ble spot, upon which it is not likely or possible 
that man has ever yet stood. There are three 
other small isles seen from here, called the Three 
Sisters. Near the Three Sisters, on Goat Isl- 
and, is the spot remembered as the resort of an 
eccentric, and which is called, after him, the 



NEW YOHK. 



113 



Bathing Place of Francis Abbott the Hermit. 
At tlie head of Goat iBland is Navy Island, near 
the Canada shore. It -was the scene of incidents 
in the Canadian rebellion of 1S37-8, known as the 
McKenzie War. Chippewa, which held at that 
period some 5,000 British troops, is upon the Ca- 
nadian shore below. It was near Fort Schlos- 
ser, hard by, that, about this period, the Ameri- 
can steamboat Caroline, was set on fire, and sent 
over the Falls, by the order of Col. McNabb, a 
. British officer. Some fragments of the wreck 
lodged on Gull Island, where they remained un- 
til the following ppring. 

Grand Island, which has an area of 17,240 
acres, was the spot on which Major M. M. Noah 
hoped to assemble all the Hebrew popultltions of 
the world. 

Near the Ferry (American side still) there 
was once an observatory or Pagoda, 100 feet 
high, from which a grand view of the region was 
gained. This spot is called Point View. 

Th.9 Whirlpool.— Three miles below the 
Falls (American side) is the Whirlpool, resem- 
bling in its appearance the celebrated Maelstrom 
on the coast of Norway. It is occasioned by the 
river making nearly a right angle, while it is 
here narrower tlian at any other place, not being 
more than 30 rods wide, and the current running 
with such velocity as to rise up in the middle 10 
feet above the sides. This has been ascertained 
by measurement. There is a path leading down 
the bank to the Whirlpool on botli sides, and, 
though somewhat difficult to descend and as- 
cend, it is accomplished almost every day. 

Th,e Devil's Sole is a mile below the Whirl- 
pool. It embraces about two acres, cut out later- 
ally and perpendicularly in the rook by the side of 
the river, and is 150 feet deep. An angle of this 
hole or gulf comes within a few feet of the stage- 
road, afi'ording travellers an opportunity, without 
alighting, of looking into the yawning abyss. 
But they should alight, and pass to the further 
side of the flat projecting rook, where they will 
feel themselves richly repaid for their trouble. 

Chasm Tower, 3^ miles below the Falls, is 
75 feet high, and commands line views (seen, if 
you please, of all hues, through a specular me- 
dium) of all the country round. A fee of 12^ 
cents is required. 

The Maid of the Mist,— The landing of 
that singular feature of these wild scenes, the 
steamboat Maid of the Mist, is two miles below 
the Falls, whose troublous brink she touches in 
her frequent trips across the river. i 

The Great Suspension Eridg'e spans the 
chasm at this point. Its total length, from cen- 
tre to centre of the towers, is 800 feet; its height 
above the water, 258 feet. The first bridge, 
which was built by Mr. Charles EUett, waa a 



very light and fairy-like affair, in comparison 
with tlie present substantial structure. The 
bridge, as it now stands, was constructed under 
the directions of Mr. John A. Roebling, at a cost 
of $500,000. It was first crossed by the locomo- 
tive March 8, 1855. Twenty-eight feet below the 
floor of the railway tracks a carriage and foot- 
way is suspended. This bridge is used at pres- 
ent by the New York Central, the Erie, and the 
Great Western, Canada roads. 

We will now cross the river on the Suspension 
Bridge, and explore the wonders of the opposite 
shores. 

Taking a carriage at our hotel, on the Ameri- 
can side, we may " do" the Canadian- shore very 
comfortably between breakfast and dinner, if we 
have no more time to spare. The regular price 
of carriage hire at the livery stables is one dollar 
per hour. On the plank road, going and return- 
ing, five cents ; at the bridge, for each foot pas- 
senger, going and returning the same day, 25 
cents, or 12^ each way. If the passenger does 
not return, the bridge toll is still 25 cents. For 
each carriage (two horses), going and returning, 
50 cents for each passenger, and 50 cents besides 
for the carriage. A plank road leads from the 
opposite terminus of the bridge to the Clifton 
House. 

At the bridge is shown a basket in which Mr. 
Elliott, his wife, and other ladies and gentlemen, 
crossed over the river on a single wire, about one 
inch in diameter. A perilous journey across 
such a gorge and at an elevation in the air of 280 
feet 1 Two or three persons thus crossed at a 
time, the basket being let down on an inclined 
plane to the centre of the towers (this was dur- 
ing the building of the first Suspension Bridge), 
and then drawn up by the help of a windlass to 
the opposite side. The usual time in crossing 
was from three to four minutes. By the means 
of this basket the lives of four men were once 
saved, when the planks of the Foot Bridge were 
blown off in a violent storm, and they were sus- 
pended over the river by only two strands of 
wire, which oscillated with immense rapidity, 60 
or 70 feet. The basket was sent to their relief, 
at a moment when the hurricane grew less fear- 
ful, and they descended into it hy means of a 
ladder, one at a trip only, until all were released 
from their terrible position. 

Bender's Cave is midway between the Sus- 
pension Bridge and the Clifton House. It is a 
recess six feet high and twenty in length, made 
by a decomposition of the limestone. 

If the tourist prefer it, he may cross the river 
by the ferry, the only route of other days. From 
the ferry-house the cars descend to the water's 
edge on an inclined plane of 31 degrees. They 
are worked by water-power. The time required 



114 



NEW yOEK. 



to make this descent and to cross to the Canada 
shore is about ten minutes. During the forty 
years it is said tliat this ferry has been in opera- 
tion, not one life has been lost, nor has any seri- 
ous accident occurred. We have described the 
passage of the river in the opening of our article. 
Upon landing, plenty of carriages will be always 
found in readiness, as at all other starting and 
stopping places about the Falls. It will be well to 
ascertain the fares before employing any of them. 

Tlie Clifton House is an old and very 
favorite resort here, for its home luxuries and 
for its noble position, overlooking the river and 
Falls. It was the residence of Mdlle. Jenny 
Lind during her visit to Niagara. " The Clifton 
House," writes Mr. WiUis, from whose descrip- 
tions of these scenes we have already quoted, 
" stands nearly opposite the centre of the irregu- 
lar crescent formed by the Falls ; but it is so far 
back from the line of the arc, that the height and 
grandeur of the two cataracts, to an eye iinac- 
quainted with the scene, are respectively dimin- 
ished. After once making the tour of the points 
of view, however, the distance and elevation of 
the hotel are allowed for by the eye, and the 
situation seems most advantageous. This is the 
only house at Niagara where a traveller, on his 
second visit, would be content to live." 

" The ennui attendant upon pubUc-houses can 
never be felt at the Clifton House. The most 
common mind finds the spectacle, from its bal- 
conies, a sufficient and untiring occupation. The 
loneliness of uninhabited parlors, the discord of 
baby-thrummed pianos, the dreariness of great 
staircases, long entries, and bar-rooms filled with 
strangers, are pains and penalties of travel never 
felt at Niagara, If there is a vacant half-hour 
to dinner, or if indisposition to sleep create that 
sickening yearning for society which sometimes 
comes upon a stranger in a strange land, like the 
calenture of a fever — the eternal marvel going 
on without is more engrossing than friend or 
conversation — more beguiling from sad thoughts 
than the Corso in carnival time. To lean over 
the balustrade, and watch the flying of the ferry- 
boat below, with its terrified freight of adven- 
turers, one moment gliding swiftly down the 
stream in the round of an eddy, the nest lifted 
up by a boding wave, as if it were tossed from 
the scoop of a giant's hand beneath the water ; 
to gaze, hour after hour, into the face of the 
cataract ; to trace the rainbows, delight like a 
child in the shooting spray-clouds, and calculate 
fruitlessly and endlessly, by the force, weight, 
speed, and change of the tremendous waters— is 
amusement and occupation enough to draw the 
mind from any thing — to cure madness or cre- 
ate it." 

Table Keck. The grand overhanging plat- 



form called Table Rock, and the fearful abys- 
mal scene at the very base of the mighty Horse 
Shoe Fall, which it presents, is one of the car- 
dinal wonders of Niagara. If one would listen 
to the terrible noise of the great cataract, let him 
come here where the sound of its hoarse utter- 
ance drowns all lesser sounds, and his own speech 
is inaudible to himself. 

Termination Kock is a recess behind the 
centre of the Horse Shoe Fall, reached by the 
descent of a spiral stairway from Table Rock, 
the traverse for a short distance of the rude 
marge of the river, and then of a narrow path 
over a frightful ledge and through the drowning 
spray, behind the mighty Fall. 

Before descending the visitors make a complete 
change of toilette, for a rough costume more j 
suitable for tire stormy and rather damp journey 1 
before them. When fully equipped, their lu- 
dicrous appearance excites for a while, a mirth- 
ful feeling, in singular contrast with the solemn 
sentiment of all the scene around them. This 
strange expedition, often made even by ladies, 
has been thus described : "The guide went be- 
fore, and we followed close under the clifi'. A 
cold, clammy wind blew strong in our faces from 
the moment we left the shelter of the staircase, 
and a few steps brought us into a pelting fine 
rain, that penetrated every opening of our 
dresses and made our foothold very slippery and 
diflicult. We were not yet near the sheet of 
water we were to walk through ; but one or two 
of the party gave out and returned, declaring it 
was impossible to breathe ; and the rest, imitat- 
ing the guide, bent nearly double to keep the 
beating spray from their nostrils, and pushed on, 
with enough to do to keep sight of his heels. 
We arrived near the difficult point of our pro- 
gress ; and in the midst of a confusion of bUnd- 
ing gusts, half deafened, and more than half 
drowned, the guide stopped to give us a hold of 
his skirts and a little counsel. All that could bo 
heard amid the thunder of the cataract beside us 
was an injunction to push on when it got to the 
worst, as it was shorter to get beyond the sheet 
than to go hack ; and with this pleasant state- 
ment of our dilemma, we faced about with the 
longest breath we could draw, and encountered 
the enemy. It may be supposed that every per- 
son who has been dragged through the column 
of water which obstructs the entrance to the 
cavern behind this cataract, has a very tolerable 
idea of the pains of dro'^^Tiing. What is wanting 
in the density of the element is more than made 
up by the force of the contending winds, which 
rush into the mouth, eyes, and nostrils, as if flj'- 
ing from a water-fiend. The " courage of worse 
behind" alone persuades the gasping sufferer to 
take one desperate step more. 



NEW TOEK. 



115 



It is difflcult enough to breathe -within ; but 
■with a little self-control and management, the 
nostrils may be guarded from the watery par- 
ticles in the atmosphere, and then an impression 
is made upon the mind by the extraordinary 
pavilion above and around, which never loses its 
vividness. The natural bend of the falling 
cataract, and the backward shelve of the preci- 
pice, form an immense area like the interior of a 
tent, but so pervaded by discharges of mist and 
spray, that it is impossible to see far inward. 
Outward the light struggles, brokenly, through 
the crystal of the cataract ; and when the sun 
shines directly on its face, it is a scene of unim- 
aginable glory. The footing is rather unstead- 
fast, a small shelf composed of loose and slip- 
pei'y stones ; and the abyss below boils like — it 
is difficult to find a comparison. On the whole, 
this iindertaking is rather pleasanter to remem- 
ber than to achieve. 

The Museum, near Table Rock, contains more 
than 10,000 specimens of minerals, birds, flsh, 
and animals, many of which were collected in 
the neighborhood of the Falls. Admittance, 25 
cents. The Burning Spring is near the water, 
two miles above the Falls. The carbonated sul- 
phuretted hydrogen gas here, gives out a bril- 
liant flame when lighted. Charge 12J cents. 

The height of the Falls is 165 "feet. The roar 
of the waters has been heard at Toronto, 44 
miles away, and yet in some states of wind and 
atmosphere, it is scarcely perceptible in the im- 
mediate neighborhood. Niagara presents a new 
and most unique aspect in winter, when huge 
icicles hang from the precipices, and immense 
frozen piles of a thousand fantastic shapes glitter 
in the bright sun light. Father Hennepin a 
Jesuit missionary, was the first European who 
ever saw Niagara. His visit was in 1678. Nia- 
gara is an Indian word of the Iroquois tongue, 
from Ongakarra, meaning mighty or thundering 
water. 

In the vicinity of Niagara isLewistown, seven 
miles distant, at tlie head of navigation on Lake 
Ontario — and directly opposite LcAvistown is 
Quecnstown, under Queenstown Heights — a 
famous battle-ground. Brock's Monument, a 
column of 126 feet, crowns the Heights. 



THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS— THE 
SARANAC LAKES, ETC. 

The Upper part of the State of New York, 
lying west and south of Lake Champlain and 
the St. Lawrence River, respectively, is still a 
wild primitive forest region, of the highest inter- 
est to the tourist, for its wonderful natural beau- 



ties and for the ample facilities it offers for tho 
pleasures of tho rod and the rifle. Fine moun- 
tain peaks stud the whole region, and charming 
lakes and lakelets are so abundant that travel 
here is made by water instead of by land — trav- 
ersing the ponds in row-boats which are carried 
by easy portage from one lovely brook or lake to 
another. Deer fiU the woods, and trout are vm.- 
suspecting in the transparent floods everywhere. 
This wilderness land is visited at various points 
under distinctive names, as the hunting-grounds 
of the Saranacs, of the Chateaugay woods, of tho 
Adirondaoks, and of Lake Pleasant, etc. "Wo 
shall speak of these several divisions, briefly, in 
order. 

The Saranac Lakes. These wonderful 
links of the great chain of mountain waters in 
upper New York, are about a dozen in number, 
large and small. They lie principally in Frank- 
lin County, and may be most readily reached by 
stage from Westport or from Keeseville, about 
midway on the western shore of Lake Cham- 
plain — taking stage or private conveyance thence 
(30 miles) to the banks of the Lower Saranac — 
which is the outer edge of civilization in this di- 
rection. There is a little village and an inn or 
two at this point, -and here guides and boats, with 
all proper camp equipage for forest life, may be 
procured. For this route the tourist must en- 
g.age a boatman, who, for a compensation of two 
or three dollars per day— the price will be no 
more if he should have extra passengers — wiU 
provide a boat, with tent and kitchen apparatus, 
dogs, rifles, etc. The tourist will supply, before 
starting, such stores as coffee, tea, biscuit, etc., 
and the sport by the way, conducted by himself 
or by his gviide, will keep him furnished with 
trout and venison. If camp life should not 
please him, he may, with some little incon- 
venience, so measure and direct his movements 
as to sleep in some one or other of the shanties 
of the hunters or of the lumber-men found hero 
and there on the way. The tent in the forest, 
however, is much preferable. 

Leaving the Lower Saranac, we will pass 
pleasantly along some half a dozen miles — then 
make a short portage, the guide carrying the 
huge boat bj^ a yoke on the back, to the Middle 
Saranac — there he may go on to the Upper Lake 
of the same name, and thence by a long portage 
of three miles to Lake St. Regis. These are all 
large and beautiful waters, full of delicious isl- 
ands and hemmed in upon all sides by fine moun- 
tain ranges. Trout may be taken readily at the 
inlets of all the brooks, and deer may be found 
in the forests almost at will. 

Returning from St. Regis, and back via the 
Upper to the Middle Saranac, we continue out 
journey, by portage, to the Stony Creek ponds — 



116 



NEW TOEK. 



thence three miles by Stony Creek to the Raok- 
ett River — a rapid stream \vith -u-onderful forest 
vegetation upon its banks. This water followed 
for some 20 miles, brings us to Tupper's Lake — 
the finest part of the Saranac region. Tupper's 
Lake is the largest of this chain, being seven 
miles long and from one to two miles broad. 
The shores and headlands and islands are espe- 
cially bold and picturesque, and at this point the 
deer is much more easily found than elsewhere 
in the neighborhood. Below Tupper's Lake — 
the waters commingling — is Loughneah, another 
charmmg pond. The chain continues on yet for 
miles, bat the Saranac trip, proper, ends here. 
This mountain voyage and the return to Lake 
Champlain might be made in a week, but two 
or throe, or even more, should bo given to it. It 
is seldom that ladies make the excursion, but 
they might do so with great delight. The boat- 
men and hunters of the region are fine, heart}', 
intelligent and obliging fellows. That wonderful 
ravine, the ""Walled Banks of the Ausable," 
(see Index,) should be seen by the Saranac 
tourist, on his way from Lake Champlain to 
Kcesevillo. 

The Adirondack Mountains. The Adi- 
rondack region may be reached by private con- 
veyance (only) over a rude mountain road from 
Sohroon Lake, above Lake George, or more con- 
venientlj' from Crown Point village, just beyond 
the ruins of Fort Ticonderogn, on Lake Cham- 
plain. The distance thence is some 30 miles, and 
requires a day to travel. The tourist in this re- 
gion will luove about by land more than by 
water, as among the Saranacs ; for, although the 
lakes are numerous enough, it is among and 
upon the hills that the chief attractions are to be 
found. The accommodations are rude enough — 
the only inn being the boarding-house at the vil- 
lage of the Adirondack Iron Works. Stop- 
ping at this point, as head-quarters, he may make 
a pleasant journey down Lake Sandford near by, 
on one side, and upon Lake Henderson on the 
other hand. In one water he ought to troll for 
pickerel, and in the other, cast his fly for trout ; 
and upon both enjoy the noble glimpses of the 
famous mountain peaks of the Adirondack 
group, the clift's of the Great Indian Pass, of 
Momits Golden, M'lutyre, Echo Mountain, and 
other bold scenes. It will be a d.ay's jaunt for 
him afterwards to explore the wild gorge of 
the Indian Pass, five miles distant ; another 
day's work to visit the dark and weird waters of 
Avalanche Lake ; and yet another to reach the 
Preston Ponds, five miles in a difl"crent direction. 
He will find indeed, occupation enough formany 
days, in exploring these and many other points, 
which we may not tarry to catalogue ; and, in 
any case, he must have 48 hours to do the tramp, 



par excellence, of the Adirondack — the visit to tho 
summit of the bravo Tehawus, or Mount Marcy, 
the monarch of the region. Tehawus is 12 miles 
away, and the ascent is extremely toilsome. 

The Adirondacks (named after the Indian na- 
tion which once inhabited these fastnesses) he 
chieflj' in the county of Essex, though they ex- 
tend into all the jurisdiction around. Mount 
Marcy, or Tehawus, " the Cloud Splitter," is 
5,467 feet High. Mount M'Intyre has an eleva- 
tion almost as great. The Dial Mountain, 
M'Marten, and Golden are also very lofty peaks, 
impressively seen from the distance, and inex- 
haustible in the attractions which their ravines, 
and waterfalls present. White Face and other 
grand hill peaks belong to the neighboring range 
called the Kcene Mountains. Tho Hudson 
River rises in this wilderness. 

Lake Pleasant. To reach Lake Pleasant 
and the adjoining waters of Round, Piseco, and 
Louis Lakes — a favorite and enchanting sum- 
mer resort and sporting-ground — take the Cen- 
tral Railway from Albany as far as Amsterdam, 
and thence, by stage or carriage, to Holmes' Ho- 
tel, on Lake Pleasant. The ride from Amster- 
dam is about 30 miles. The stage stops over 
night at a village, en route. Mr. Holmes' house 
is an excellent place, with no absurd luxuries, 
but with every comfort for which the true spoi'ts- 
man can wish. It is a delightful summer homo 
for the student, and maybe visited very satis- 
factorily by ladies. The wild lands and waters 
here are a part of the lake region of northern 
New York, of which we have already seen 
something on the Saranacs, and among the Adi- 
rondacks. The Saranac regiou is connected 
with Lake Pleasant by intermediate waters and 
portages. The deer, and other game, is abun- 
dant here in the forests, and fine trout maybe 
taken in all the brooks and lakes. Lake Pleas- 
ant and its picturesque confreres, lie in Hamilton 
County. 

All this northern part of New York is quite 
similar in its attractions to the wilderness in tho 
upper part of the State of Maine. 

TO LAKE MAHOPAC. 

Route : — From New York, via Harlem Rail- 
road, the depot up town, at the corner of Fourth 
Avenue and Twentj'-sixth street. New York, 
51 miles, to Groton Falls Station. (See Harlem 
Route from New York to Albany.) 

Stages leave Groton Falls for Lake Mahopac, 
five miles, on the arrival of the cars ; stage fare, 
25 cents. 

Lake mahopac. — Hotels : — Gregory's, 
BaldwirOs, and ThompsorCs. ' 



NE-W TOEK. 



117 



Lake Mahopac, a favorite summer resort, in 
the immediate viciuity of New York, and much 
frequented by its citizens, both for a day's ex- 
cursion and as a continued home, lies in the 
western part of the town of Carmel, Putnam 
County, New York, 13 miles east from Peeks- 
kill, on the Hudson, and Ave miles from Croton 
Falls Station, on the Harlem Railroad. The 
lake is nine miles in circumference, and is about 
1,800 feet above the sea. It is one of the princi- 
pal sources of supply to the Croton. Though 
the landscape has no very bold features, hut lit- 
tle to detain the artist, yet its quiet waters, its 
pretty wooded islands, the romantic resorts in 
its vicinage, the throngs of pleasure-seeking 
strangers, the boating, and fishing, and other ru- 
ral sports, make it a most agreeable spot for 
either a brief visit or long residence. There 
are many attractive localities of hill and water 
scenery around Mahopac. The pleasant hotels 
are well filled during the season by hoarders or 
by passing guests. It is a nice retreat to those 
whose business in the great city below forbids 
their wandering far away. 

liebanon Spring-s and Shaker Villag-e. 

— Hotels : — Columbia Hall. 

Route. From New York, by the Hudson 
River Railway or Boats, to ihe city of Hudson, 
and thence, by the Hudson and Boston R. R., to 
Canaan ; from Canaan, by stage, seven miles to 
the Springs. From Boston, 167 miles to Canaan 
by the Western Railway. From Albany, by 
same route, to Canaan, 33 miles. Travellers 
taking the steamboat in the evening from New 
York will breakfast in Hudson and proceed com- 
fortably by rail. 

There are ample accommodations for the trav- 
eller at this favorite watering-place, in a well- 
appointed hotel, a water-cure establishment, &c., 
pleasantly perched on a hiU slope, overlooking a 
beautiful valley. There are pleasant drives all 
around, over good roads, to happy villages, smil- 
ing lakelets, and inviting spots of many charac- 
ters. Trout, too, may be taken in the neighbor- 
hood. The water of the Springs flows from a 
cavity 10 feet in diameter, and in suflleient vol- 
ume to work a mill. Its temperature is 72°. It 
is soft and pleasantly suited for bathing uses, is 
quite tasteless and inodorous. For cutaneous 
afiections, rheumatism, nervous debility, liver 
complaint, &c., it is an admirable remedial 
agent. 

The village of New Lebanon, or the celebrated 
Shaker settlement, is two miles from the Sprinirs, 
and is a point of great interest to the visitors 
there, especially on Sunday, when their singular 
forms of worship may be witnessed. 



Sharon Springs.— Hotels :— The Pavilion 
is a large and well appointed establishment. The 
Eldridge, also, is a good and less expensive house. 

Route : — From Albany, New York, by the 
Central Railroad for Bufi"alo, as far as Palatine 
Bridge, 55 miles ; thence by stage, 10 miles, over 
a plank road. 

The waters are pure and clear, and although 
they flow for one-fourth of a mile from their 
source with other currents, they yet preserve 
their own distinct character. The fall here is of 
8ufla.oient force and volume to turn a mill. It 
tumbles over a ledge of perpendicular rooks, 
with a descent of some 65 feet. The magnesia 
and the sulphur springs much resemble tho 
White Sulphur of Virginia. 

Cherry Valley is in the vicinage of Sharon 
Springs, accessible also from Palatine Bridge, 
on the Albany and Bufiklo road, and from Cana- 
joharie, on the Erie Canal, from which it lies 
about 26 miles in a south-west direction. 

Otsego Lake and Cooperstown, famous as the 
home of the late Fenimore Cooper, the novelist, 
are near by. 

Columbia Springs. 

From New York, by Hudson River Railway, 
or steamboats to Hudson ; thence, by carriage or 
stage, four miles. 

The Columbia Springs have of late years 
grown into great popular favor. They are easily 
accessible, lying only four miles from the City of 
Hudson. They are within the town of Stock- 
port, Columbia County, New York. Tho site 
and grounds are highly varied and joicturesque, 
jumping delightfully from hill to dale, from for- 
est glen to grassy lawn. 

There is, too, a merry brooklet, which winds co- 
quettishly through the landscape, affording now 
a quiet slope for some " melancholy Jacques," 
now a dashing cascade for him of brighter 
mood. In the immediate neighborhood, more- 
over, there flows a larger water, offering all the 
country charms of boating and fishing. The ho- 
tel here is large and well-appointed, and Mr. 
Charles B. Nash, the enterprising proprietor, is 
every year swelling its conveniences and com- 
forts, and adding to the seductions of the occu- 
pations and enjoyments, and to the beauty of 
the scenery out of doors. 

Avon Springs.— Hotels :— ■ 

The Avon Springs maybe reached by the Cen- 
tral Railway from Albany to Buffalo, via 
Rochester, from which city they are distant 20 
miles. The village of Avon is upon the Genesee 



118 



NEW TOEK. 



River, whicli it overlooks from a charming ter- 
race 100 feet atiove. On this lofty position the 
picturesque landscape of the neighborhood is 
Been to great advantage. The Springs are near 
at hand, a httle to the eouth-west. With ample 
hotel conveniences and enjoyments, the Avon 
Springs meet the popular favor they eo well de- 
Berve. 

Hichfield Springs. — Hotels : — Spring 
House. 

Richfield Springs are reached from Herkimer, 
81 miles from Albany, on the Central Road to 
Buffalo. They are in the town of Richfield, Ot- 
sego County, south-east of Utica, near the head 
of Canaderaga, one of the numerous lakes of all 
this part of New York. Otsego Lake is sis 
miles distant ; and another six miles will take 
the traveller to Cooperstown. Cherry Valley, 
Springfield, and other villages are near by. 

LOi^G ISLAl^D. 

110115 Island, part of the State, is 115 miles 
in length, and, at some points, 20 in hreadth ; 
with the Atlantic on the south, and the 
Long Island Sound on the north. The up- 
per part of the island is agreeably diversified 
with hills, though the surface is for the most 
part strikingly level. The coast is charmingly 
indented with hays ; and delicious fresh- water 
ponds, fed hy springs, are everywhere found on 
terraces of varying elevation. These little lakes, 
and the varied coast-views give Long Island pic- 
turesque features, which, if not grand, are cer- 
tainly of most attractive and winning character, 
yet heightened by the rural beauty of the nu- 
merous quiet little towns and charming summer 
villas. 

The places in the immediate vicinity of IfTew 
York, we have already mentioned among the su- 
hurhan resorts of the city, and we might almost 
have included the whole island in that classifi- 
cation, so easily is every part reached either by 
the steamboats or hy the railway which tra- 
verses the length of the island, from Brooklyn 
95 miles to Grcenport. 

The lower shore of the island, which is a net- 
work of shallow, land-looked waters, extending 
70 miles, is the resort of innumerable flocks of 
aquatic fowl, and thither go the N"ew York 
sportsmen or gunners for pastime and glory for 
themselves, and for delights for the tables of 
their city friends. In no other part of the Union 
is there a greater variety and abundance of wild 
birds than on this coast, and nowhere else are 
they more systematically sought. To answer 
the wants of the sportsmen, excellent accommo- 



1 



dations have been everywhere provided, in the 
way of comfortable hotels and boat equipage. 

Cedarmere, the home of the Poet Bryant, 
is near the pretty village of Roslyn, at the head 
of Hempstead Bay, about two hours' journey 
from New York lay steamboat to Glen Cove, 
and thence by stage ; or by the Long Island 
Railway 20 miles to Hempstead Branch, and by 
connecting stages. Cedarmere is a spot of great, 
though quiet picturesque beauty, overlooking 
Hempstead Bay, and the Connecticut shore 
across the Sound. Many of the charming, ter- 
raced, spring-water lakes of which we have 
EXJokon already, as among the pleasant and 
unique features of the Long Island landscape, 
are found within the domain of Cedarmere, in 
the village of Roslyn, and, indeed, through all 
the vicinage for miles around. Within a pleasant 
stroll of Mr. Bryant's residence is Hempstead 
Hill, the highest land on Long Island. This fine 
eminence overlooks the Sound and its inlets on 
the one hand, and the ocean beach on the other ; 
at its base the village of Roslyn is nestled among 
green trees and placid lakelets. The house at 
Cedarmere makes no architectural pretensions, 
though it falls most agreeably into all the charm- 
ing pictures, which every changing step over 
the hiUs, or along the margin of the ponds pre- 
sents to view. 

Battle of Long Island (August, 1776). 
The thoughts of the tourist on the quiet pastoral 
plains of Long Island, will revert with interest 
to that eventful night when the British troops 
under Sir Henry Clinton, Lord CornwaUis, and 
General Howe, made their silent, unsuspected 
march from Flatlands, through the swamps and 
passes to Bedford Hills, stealing upon the rear, 
and almost surrounding the patriot lines ; "that 
able and fatal scheme which cost the Americans 
the deadly battle of Long Island, with the loss 
of nearly 2,000 out of the 5,000 men engaged." 

The surprise of the attack, the obstinacy of 
the conflict, the bold retreat, and the loss of the 
city of New York, to which it led, makes this 
battle one of the most romantic episodes in the 
history of the Revolution. 

" Never," says Mr. Irving, " did retreat re- 
quire greater secrecy and circumspection. Nino 
thousand men, with all the muni-tions of war, 
were to be withdrawn from before a victorious 
army, encamped so near that every stroke of the 
spade and pick-axe from their trenches could be 
heard. 

" The retreating troops, moreover, were to be 
embarked and conveyed across a strait, three- 
quarters of a mile wide, swept by rapid tides. 
What with the greatness of the stake, the dark- 
ness of the night, the uncertainty of the design, 



NEW JEESEY. 



119 



• and the extreme hazard of the issue, it ■would be 
difficult to conceive a more deeply solemn and 
interesting scene. 
" Washington wrung his hands in agony at the 



sight of this fatal battle. ' Good God I' cried he, 
as his troops were swept down, ' what brave 
fellows I must lose to-day 1' " 



NEW JEESEY. 

Settlements were made in this State at Bergen, by the Dutch, soon after their arrival in Kew 
York. In 1627 a Swedish colony was founded near the shores of the Delaware, in the south- 
western part of the State. A droll account of the quarrels of these Swedish folk with the Dutch- 
men of New Amsterdam may be found in Diedrick Knickerbocker's solemn history of the Am- 
sterdam colonists. New Jersey is one of the old Thirteen States. She did her part nobly in the 
long war of Independence. The famous battles of Trenton, and of Princeton, and of Monmouth, 
at all of which "Washington was present and victorious, occurred within her limits. Morristown 
was the winter camp of the American army in 1776-'77. 

New Jersey has not a very wide territory, yet she presents many natural attractions to the 
traveller. Her sea coast abounds in favorite bathing and sporting resorts, much visited by the 
citizens of New York and Philadelphia. Among these Summer haunts are Cape May, Long 
Branch, Sandy Hook, Absecum Beach, Deal, Squam Beach, and Tuckerton. 

In the southern and central portions of this State, the country is flat and sandy ; in the north 
are some ranges of picturesque hills, intei-spersed with charming lakes and ponds. Some of the 
Alleghany ridges traverse New Jersey, forming the spurs known as Schooley's Mountain, Trow- 
bridge, the Ramapo, and Second Mountains. In the north-western part of the State are the Blue 
Mountains. The Nevisink Hills, rising nearly 400 feet on the Atlantic side, are usually the first 
and last land seen by ocean voyagers as they approach and leave New York. The celebrated 
Palisade Rocks of the Hudson River are in this State. 



NEW YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. 

There are two great routes between the cities 
of New York and Philadelphia, one known as 
the New Jersey railw.iy line, and the other as 
the Camden and Amboy route. The former is 
the most expeditious ; the latter, being partly by 
water, is the most agreeable in summer time. 

The New Jersey Railway Route. 

This route passes over the New Jersey, and 
the Philadelphia and Trenton Railroads. Leaves 
New York at foot of Cortlandt street (by ferry 
across the Hudson to Jersey City), several times 
each day. Distance, 87 miles ; time (express 
trains), four hours. 

STATIONS. 

New York— Jersey City, 1 mile ; Newark, 9 ; 
Elizabeth, 15 ; Rahway, 19 ; UniOntown, 23 ; 
Metuchin, 27 ; New Brunswick, 31 ; Dean's 
Pond, 39; Kingston, 43 ; Princeton, 48; Tren- 
ton, 57 ; Bordentown, 62 ; Burlington, 68 ; Cam- 



den, 89; Bristol, 70; Cornwell's, 74; Tacony, 
79; Kensington, 85; Philadelphia, 90. 

This route, lying as it does, between the two 
greatest cities on the continent of America, is 
an immense thoroughfare, over which floods of 
travel pour unceasingly by day and by night. 
The region is populous and opulent, and neces- 
sarily thronged with towns and villages, and vil- 
las ; for 20 or 25 miles from each terminus, over 
which the two cities spread their suburbs, the 
crowded trains are passing and repassing con- 
tinually. 

Leaving Jersey City (see New York and vi- 
cinity), the track over which we pass for two 
miles is that used also by the great Erie Rail- 
way, and which is traversed by all the thousands 
daily voyaging from every part of the Canadas, 
the New England States, and New York, for 
any and all regions of the wide South. Perhaps 
no other two miles of railway in the world bears 
such prodigious freights of men and merchandise 
as this. 

Newark.— Hotels :— 



120 



NEW JEESET. 



Newark, 9 miles from New York, and 78 from 
Philadelphia ; settled iu 1666 ; population (in 
1860) 72,000 ; is upon the right hank of the Pas- 
saic River, 4 miles from its entrance into Newark 
Bay. It is built on an elevated plain, regularly 
laid out in wide streets, crossing at right angles. 
Many portions of the city are very elegant, 
and in its most recherche quarter are two charm- 
ing parks, filled with noble elms. Among its 
most imposing public edifices arc the Court 
House, the Post Office, the Custom House, and 
several of the Banks. 

Of the literary institutions, the most note- 
worthy are the Library Association, the State 
Historical Society, and the Newark Academy. 

The city contains over forty churches, some 
of which are very interesting structures, as 
the Catholic, on "Washington street ; the Pres- 
byterian, near the Lower Park, and in High 
street ; the Methodist, on Market, and on Broad 
street ; Grace (Epis.), and the Baptist, on Acad- 
emy street. 

The city is divided into twelve wards, and 
possesses some forty public schools, which are 
attended by more than 9,000 pupils. 

Newark is distinguished for its manufactures, 
which are large and prosperous. Steamboats, as 
well as railways, connect it with New York. It 
is the eastern terminus of the Morris and Essex 
K. R., and the Morris Canal passes through it 
on its way to Jersey City. 

ElizalDeth. — Hotels : — American Hotel. 

Population at this time, about 12,000 ; 15 
miles from New York ; is situated upon the 
Elizabethtown Creek, two miles from its en- 
trance into Staten Island Sound. It was once 
the capital and chief town of the State. Here 
diverges the N. J. Central E. R., 61 miles 
hence, into the interior, at Easton, Penn., on the 
Delaware River. 

Hahway, IT, J.— Hotels :— 

Population (in 1360), about 7,000; 19 miles 
from New York ; lies upon both sides of the 
Rahway River. Rahway is noted for its manu- 
factures of carriages, stoves, hats, earthenware, 
etc. Some 3,000 vehicles are annually sent 
hence to the Southern markets. 



New Brunswick. 

Hotel. 



-Hotels : — Williams 



Population (in 1860), 12,000, is at the head of 
steamboat navigation on the R^ritan River. This 
is the seat of Rutgers College and School, 
and also of a Theological Seminary of the 
Dutch Reformed Church. The streets on the 



river are narrow and crooked, and the ground 
low ; but those on the upper bank are wide, 
and many of the dwellings are very neat and 
elegant, surrounded by fine gardens. Prom 
the site of Entgers College on the hill there 
is a wide prospect, terminated by mountains 
on the north, and by Raritan Bay on the 
east. The Delaware arid Raritan Canal extends 
from New Brunswick to Bordentown, on the 
Delaware River, 42 miles. This canal is 75 feet 
wide and 7 feet deep, and is navigated by sloops 
and steamboats of 150 tons. This fine work 
cost $2,500,000. The Railway hero crosses the 
Raritan River. 

Princeton. — Hotels : — 

Built on an elevated ridge, is a pleasant little 
town, of literary and historical interest. It is 
the seat of the Princeton College, one of the 
oldest and most famous educational establish- 
ments in the country, founded by the Presbyte- 
rians at Elizabethtown, 1746, and removed to 
Princeton in 1757. Here, also, is the Theologi- 
cal Seminary of the Presbyterian church, found- 
ed 1S12. In this vicinity was fought the memo- 
rable battle of January S, 1777, between the 
American forces under General Washington, 
and those of the British, under Lieutenant- 
Colonel Mawhood, in which the latter were 
vanquished. 

Trenton. — Hotels : — Trenton House. 

Trenton, the capital of New Jersey ; popula- 
cion (in 1860), 17,000 ; is on the left bank of the 
Delaware, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and 57 
from New York. The city is regularly laid 
out, and has many fine stores and handsome 
dwellings. The State House, which is 100 feet 
long and 60 wide, is built of stone, and stuccoed, 
so as to resemble granite. Its situation, on the 
Delaware, is very beautiful, commanding a fine 
view of the river and vicinity. Here is the State 
Lunatic Asylum, founded in 1S48, and also the 
State Penitentiary. Trenton has two daily and 
two other newspapers, 17 churches, and a State 
Library. The city is lighted with gas. The 
Delaware is here crossed by a handsome cover- 
ed bridge, 1,100 feet long, resting on five arches, 
supported on stone piers, and which is consider- 
ed a fine specimen of its kind. It has two car- 
riage-ways, one of which is used by the railroad. 
The Delaware and Raritan Canal, forming an 
inland navigation from New Brunswick, passes 
through Trenton to the Delaware at Borden- 
town. It is supplied by a navigable feeder, 
taken from the Delaware 23 miles north of Tren- 
ton. It was completed in 1834, at a cost of 
$2,500,000. The Delaware and Raritan Can.al 



1 



NEW JEESET. 



121 



passes thror.gli tho city, and connects it -witli 
New York and Pbiladelpliia. At this point tho 
New Jersey Railroad, whioti we have thus far 
travelled, 57 miles from New Norls:, ends, and 
the Philadelphia and Trenton, upon which we 
make tho rest of our journey, begins. A branch 
road, six miles long-, connects with the Camden 
and Amboy Railway at Bordentown. The Bel- 
videre, Delaware, and Flemington Railroad 
leads hence, 63 miles, to Belvidere, in the inte- 
rior, along the Delaware River. 

Here was fought the famous 

Battle of Trenton.— On Christmas night, 
in 1776, and during the most gloomy period of the 
Revolutionary war, General Washington crossed, 
the Delaware with 2,500 men, and early on the 
morning of the 26th commenced an attack upon 
Trenton, then in possession of the British. So 
sudden and unexpected was the assault, that of 
the 1,500 German troops encamped there, 906 
were made prisoners. This successful enter- 
prise revived the spirit of the nation, as it was 
the first victory gained over the German mer- 
cenaries. General Mercer, a br.ave American 
oiHcer, was mortally wounded in the attack. 

It was here, upon Trenton Bridge, that occur- 
red the memorable and beautiful reception of 
Washington, while on his way from New York 
to Mount Vernon, twelve years after the glorious 
victory. 

Trenton was settled about 1680, and was 
named in 1720, in honor of Wm. Trenton, one 
of the early Provincial judges. 

[Here we take the Branch road, six miles to 
Bordentown, and then by Camden a"ad Amboy 
line, or continue, as we now shall, by Phila- 
delphia and Trenton route.] 

Bristol is a beautiful village, on the west 
banK of the Delaware, nearly opposite Burling- 
ton. The Delaware division of the Pennsyl- 
vania Cana], which communicates with the 
Lehigh at Easton, terminates here in a spacious 
basin on the Delaware. Pop., 2,570. 

Tacony and Kensington are within the cor- 
porate limits of Philadelphia, at which city we 
have now arrived. See description of Phila- 
delphia for hotels. We will now follow the line 
* of the second, or Camden and Amboy route. 



CAMDEN & AMBOY (OR STEAMBOAT) 
ROUTE. 

FROM NEW YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. 

Steamboat for Philadelphia, via Camden and 
Amboy route, leave Pier No. 1 North River, 
N.ew York, daily (Sundays excepted), at 6 a. m. 
and 2 p. m., for South Amboy, 27 miles, and 
thenco bj' rail. _ Fare by morning line is $2 25 ; 
by tho afternoon {Express) line, $3. 



Camden and Amboy Railroad from South 
.4)?76o(/.— Stations : New York, South Amboj', 
27 miles ; South River, — ; Spotswood, 38 ; 
Jamesburg, 42 ; Prospect Plains, — ; Cranberry 
Station, 45; Hightstown, 49; Centreville, 53; 
Newtown, 56; Sandhills, 58; Bordentomi, 63; 
Hammel's Turn, 68 ; Burlington, 71 ; Beverly, 
77 ; Rancooae, 78 ; Palmyra, 83 ; Fish House, 
85 ; Camden, 89 ; Philadelphia, 90. 

In the summer season, no more delightful 
journey can be made than the first twenty-seven 
miles of our present route across the lovely Bay 
and Harbor of New York, to South Amboj^, 
past the villaed and villaged shores of Staten 
Island, and the Raritan River. The scenery of 
this region is described in our chapter upon New 
York City and its vicinity. 

South. Amboy is the landing place, and also 
the terminus of the Camden and Amboy Rail- 
road. Upon our arrival there, we are transport- 
ed, in a short sisace of time, from the steamboat 
to tho railroad oars ; and after a slight deten- 
tion, we proceed on our journey up the steep 
ascent from the river, and soon enter a line of 
deep cutting through the sandhills. The road is 
then continued through a barren and uninterest- 
ing region of country, towards the Delaware at 

Bordentown, 35 miles from Amboy. Here 
are the extensive grounds and mansion formerly 
occupied by the late Joseph Bonaparte, ex-King 
of Spain, which are among the most conspicuoua 
objects of the place. 

Bordentown is situated on a steep sandbank, 
on the east side of the Delaware. Although in 
a commanding situation, the view is greatly 
obstructed from the river. This is a favorite re- 
sort of the Philadelphians during the summer 
season. The Delaware and Raritan Canal here 
connects with Delaware River. A branch road 
running along the canal and river, unites thia 
town with Trenton. Population, 3,000. 

Burlington.— Hotels :— City Hotel. 

Burlington, settled in 1670, and with a present 
population of about 5,000, is a port of entry on 
the Delaware, 19 miles from Philadelphia. Bur- 
lington College, founded by the Episcopalians 
in 1846, is located here, and there are besides, 
upon the banks of the river, two largo boarding- 
schools, one for each sex. Burlington is con- 
nected with Philadelphia by steamboat, and is a 
place of great summer resort thence. 

Beverly, built on the banks of the Delaware 
since 1848, has now a population of from 1,000 to 
1,500. It is a suburb of Philadelphia, distant 
thirteen miles. - 

Camden is at tho terminus of our route, upon 
the banks of tho Delaware River, immediately 



122 



NEW JEESET. — ^DELAWAEE. 



opposite the city of Philadelphia, to which we 
now cross by ferry. For further mention of 
Camden, and for hotels, etc., see description of 
Philadelpliia. 

The Falls of tlie Passaic occur in the 
town of Paterson, 16 miles from New York, on 
the route of the Erie Railway. This hold pas- 
sage on the Passaic, though it has of late years 
lost much of its ancient beauty, is etill a scene 
of great attraction, particularly when the stream 
chances to be generously swoUen after heavy 
rains. Paterson itself is an agreeable town, of 
very considerable importance. It has a popula- 
tion of some 20,000. 

Cape May. — Hotels : — Congress Hall, Unit- 
ed Slates, the Columbia, and many others. 

Route. — From Kew York every evening, by 
steamboat line to Philadelphia ; from Philadel- 
phia by same line. Fare from New York, $2 ; 
from Philadelphia, $1. 

Cape May is at the extreme southern point of 
New Jersejf, where the floods of the Delaware 
are lost in the greater floods of the Atlantic. 
The beach is excellent for bathing or riding. 
The little village of the Cape (Cape Island) is 
thronged in the summer season by thousands of 
gratified pleasure seekers. They come chiefly 
from Philadelphia and Baltimore. 

Atlantic City.— Hotels :— 

Atlantic City, 61 miles from Philadelphia, may 
be reached thence twice each day by the Cam- 
den and Atlantic Railroad. It is one of the best 
bathing-places on the coast. 



Schooley 's Mountain. 
nouse. 



-Hotels -.—Heath 



Route. From New York, by the N. J. Cen- 
tral and Morris and Essex Railway, 53 miles to 
Hackettstown, and thence, 2^ miles by stage. 
Southerners proceed via Philadelphia and New 
Brunswick, connecting with the New Jersey 
Central Railway at Bound Brook, and from this 
line as above. 

The height of the moimtain is about 1,100 feet 



above the sea. The spring ia near the summit. 
It contains muriate of soda, of lime, and of mag- 
nesia, sulphate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, 
and silex, and carbonated oxide of iron. 

Budd's Xiake. — Hotels : — Forest House. 

Route. From New York by the N. J. Cen- 
tral and the Morris and Esses Railway, 43 miles 
to Stanhoi)e, and thence, 2-J miles bj' stage. 

Budd's Lake is a beautiful mountain water, 
deep, pure, and well supplied with fish. 

Greenwood Lake.— Hotels :— 

Route. From New York by Erie Railway, 35 
miles to Sloatsburg, and thence by stage. 

To Greenwood Lake, sometimes called Long 
Pond, is a very agreeable jaunt from the metrop- 
olis, whether for the pure air of the hills, the 
pleasant aspects of natui-e, or for the sports of 
the angle and the gun. Greenwood lies half in 
Now York and half in New Jersey, in the midst 
of a very picturesque mountain region. It is a 
beautiful water of seven miles in extent, and all 
about it, in every direction, are lesser, but scarce- 
ly less charming, lakes and lakelets, some of 
which, as you ride or ramble over the country, 
delight your surprised eyes where least dreamed 
of. Such an imexpected vision is Lake Maco- 
pin, and the larger waters of "Wawayandah. 
This last-mentioned lake is situated on the "Wa- 
wayandah Mountains, about 3J miles from the 
New York and New Jersey boundary line. The 
word Wawayandah signifies winding stream, 
and is very characteristic of the serpentine course 
of the outlet of this lake towards the "Wallkill. 
"Wawayandah is almost divided by an island into 
two ponds, and thus gets its hovie name of 
"Double Pond." It is very deep, and abounds 
in fine trout. This varied hill and lake neigh- 
borhood presents in its general air an admirable 
blending of the wild ruggedness of the great 
mountain ranges and the pastoral sweetness of 
the fertile vaUey lands ; for it possesses the feat- 
ures of both, though of neither in the highest 
degree. 

For other places in New Jersey, near New 
York, see New York City and Vicinage. 



DELAAYAKE. 

Delawahe is, after Rhode Island, the smallest State in the "Union— her greatest length and 
breadth being, respectively, only 96 and 37 miles. The first settlements here were made by the 
Swedes and Finns, about the year 1627. In 1655, the country fell into the possession of the Dutch, 
and in 1664 passed under British rule. It was originally a portion of Pennsylvania, and was gov- 
erned by the rulers of that Colony, until the time of the Revolution. 

The landscape of the northern portion of Delaware is agreeably varied with modest hills and 



DELAWAEE. 



123 



pleasant vales. In the central and southern portions of the State the country is level, ending in 
marsh and swamp lands. The only considerable waters are the Delaware River and Bay, on the 
eastern boundary. The Brandywine is a romantic stream, famous for the Revolutionary battle 
fought upon its banks near the limits of this State, September, 1777. Lords Cornwallis and Howe, 
Generals "Washington, Lafaj'ette, Greene, Wayne, and other distinguished English and American 
leaders, took part in this memorable conflict. The Americans retreated to Germantown with a 
loss of 1,200 men, while the British remained in possession of the field, with a loss of about 800. 



Wilmington.— Hotels :— -Indian Queen. 

Wilmington, the most important town on rail- 
way from Philadelphia to Baltimore, is situated 
between the Brandywine River and Christiana 
Creek, one mile above their junction, and in the 
midst of one of the finest agricultural districts 
in the Middle States. It is built on ground 
gradually rising to the height of 112 feet above 
tide-water, and is regularly laid out, with broad 
streets crossing each other at right angles. Since 
1840, both its business and population have much 
increased : at that time it contained about 8,000 
inhabitants, and now the population numbers 
about 21,000. On the Brandywine River are 
some of the finest flouring mills in the United 
States, to which vessels can come drawing eight 
feet of water. It contains also ship and steam- 
boat yards, a foundry for the manufacture of pat- 
ent car-wheels, which are used all over the 
country, and a number of large manufacturing 
establishments of various kinds. It is the seat 
of a Catholic College, and is generally distin- 
guished for its Academies and Boarding-schools. 
It is connected with New Castle, Dover, and 
Seaford, by railway ; and via Downingstown with 
the Columbia Railroad, from Philadelphia to 
Columbia. 

Havre-de-Grrace, on the Philadelphia and 
Baltimore railway route, is in Maryland, at the 
head of the Chesapeake Bay, on the Susque- 
hanna River, 36 miles north-east of Baltimore. 
The cars cross the river by a steam-ferry, some- 
times passing in winter upon the ice, as in 1851-2. 
Havre-de-Grace is quite an old town. It is the 
southern terminus of the tide-water cmal. 

Philadelphia Wilmington and Baltimore 
Railroad. — This Road extends from Philadel- 
phia to Baltimore, 97 miles. It is the great 
thoroughfare between the two cities, and during 
the winter months, the only travelled route. 

Leaving the depot in the city, the route passes 
through the suburbs to the Schuylkill at " Gray's 
Ferry," which it crosses on a substantial bridge, 
and thence passes onward via Chester, Wilming- 
ton, Delaware, Newp'ort, and Elkton, crossing 
the Susquehanna where it empties into the 
Chesapeake Bay at Havre-de-Grace ; thence, 37 
miles beyond to Baltimore. I 



There is another railroad route between the 
two cities, but it is never passed over by travel- 
lers wishing to go direct between Philadelphia, 
Baltimore, and the South. Tourists, whose time 
is not limited, and who are desirous of varying 
the route of travel, will find that over the Co- 
lumbia Railroad to the Susquehanna River, 
thence to York, and from thence to Baltimore, a 
very pleasant excursion. Distance, 153 miles. 
Fare, $5.00. 



124 PENNSYLVANIA. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 

Pennsylvania is, in point of population, the second State in the Union, and in all respects one 
of the most important and interesting. A very singular fact in her history — singular because it 
has no parallel in the annals of any other member of the American Confederacy — is, that her terri- 
tory -was settled -without war or bloodshed. The doctrines of peace and good- will, taught by Wil- 
liam Penn and his quiet-loving associates, when they pitched their tents upon the sunny banks of 
the Delaware, long served, happily, as a, charm over the savage natures of their Indian neigh- 
bors. 

We have no record of battle and siege in the story of this State, from the time of the first set- 
tlement at Philadelphia, in 16S2, until the date of the French and Indian war in 1755. During this 
year the famous defeat of Braddock, in which Washington, then in his early youth, distinguished 
himself, occurred at Pittsburg. In 1763, the massacre of the Conestoga Indians took place in Lan- 
caster County. In 1767, the southern boundary of the State, which has since become famous as 
Mason and Dixon's line, was made. This line is the proverbial division between the Northern, or 
Pree, and the Southern, or Slave-holding States. 

Pennsylvania is memorable in the annals of the American Revolution, in which she played a 
conspicuous part. Upon her soil occurred the important battles of Brandywine and Germantown 
(1777). 

The traveller will seek, here, also, for the scenes of those celebrated events, the massacres of 
Wyoming and Paoli. VaUey Forge was the chief head-quarters of General Washington, and is 
made yet more interesting by the memory of the sufierings there of the patriot army during its 
winter encampment in 1777 and 1778. Philadelphia was the national capital until 1789 — a period of 
nearly ten years — and here the earliest American Congresses assembled. The memorable revolt 
called the Whiskey Insurrection, happened in Pennsylvania in 1794. This disaffection was blood- 
less and without sequence, as all disloyalty must ever be in the Keystone State. 

Among the great men whom Pennsylvania has given to the RepubUc, we may cite the honored 
names of Franklin (though born in Boston), Robert Morris, Fulton, Rush, and Rittenhouse. Mr. 
Buchanan, the present President, is a citizen of this State. 

The landscape of Pennsylvania is extremely diversified and beautiful. One-fourth of her great 
area of 46,000 square miles is occupied by mountain ranges, sometimes reaching an elevation of 
2,000 feet. These hills, links of the great Alleghany chain, run generally from north-east to 
Bouth-west, through the eastern, central, and southern portions of the State. The spur of this hill- 
range is called South Mountain, where it rises on the Delaware, below Easton. Next, as we go 
westward, come the Kittatinny, or Blue Mountains, and the Broad Mountains, south of the North 
Branch of the Susquehanna. Across this river is the Tuscarora. South of the Juniata are the 
Sideling Hills, and, lastly, come the Alleghanies, dividing the Atlantic slope from the great Missis- 
Bippi Valley region. West of the Alleghanies, the only hill-ranges in the State are the minor ones 
called the Laurel and the Chestnut ridges. This belt of mountains extends over a breadth of 200 
mUes, enclosing numberless fertile valleys, many charming waters, and the greatest coal fields and 
iron deposits in the Union. 

RivEKS. — Pennsylvania cannot boast the marvellous lake scenery of the Empire State ; indeed, 
she has no lakes, if we except the gi-eat Erie waters which wash the shore of the north-west 
corner of the State. For this want, however, the charms of her many picturesq.ue rivers well 
atone. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



125 



The Susquehanna, the largest river of Pennsyl- 
vaiii;i, and one of the most beautiful in America, 
crossea the entire breadth of the State, flowing 
400 miles in man}' a winding bout, through moun- 
tain gorges, rooky clifls, and broad cultivated 
meadows. See Susquehanna River. 

The Juniata is the chief affluent of the Sus- 
quehanna. It comes in from the acclivities of 
the Alleghanies in the west, through a mountain 
and valley country of great natural delight. See 
Juniata River. 

The Delaware flows 300 miles from its sources 
in the Catskill Mountains to the Delaware Bay, 
forming the boundary between Pennsylvania and 
New Jersey, and afterwards between New Jer- 
sey and Delaware. It is one of the chief fea- 
tures of the varied scenery of the New York and 
Erie Railway, which follows its banks for 90 
miles. (See N. Y. and Erie R. R.) Lower down, 
its passage through the mountains forms that 
great natural wonder of the State, the Delaware 
Water Gap. The rocky clifl's here rise perpen- 
dicularly to a height of nearly 1,200 feet. (See 
Delaware Water-Gap.) The navigation of the 
Delaware is interrupted at Trenton, N. J., by 
falls and rapids. Philadelphia is on this river, 
about 40 miles above its entrance into Delaware 
Bay. The river was named in honor of Lord De 
La Ware, who visited the bay in IGIO. 

The Lehigh is a rapid and most picturesque 
stream. Its course is from the mountain coal 
districts, through the famous passage of the Le- 
high Water Gap below Mauch Chunk, to the 
Delaware at Easton. Its length is about 90 
miles. 

The Schuylkill flows 120 miles from the coal 
regions north, and enters the Delaware five miles 
helow Philadelphia. We shall review it as we 
call at the towns and places of interest upon its 
banks. 

The Alleghany and the Monongahela Elvers — 
one 300 and the other 200 miles in length— unite 
at Pittsburg and from the Ohio. The Yough- 
iogheny is a tributary of the Monongahela. 

Philadelphia and Vicinity.*— Hotels : 
— Philadelphia is abundantly supiilied with ex- 
cellent hotels of all grades. 

The Continental, first opened during the pres- 
ent season, is among the largest and most fash- 
ionable. It is in Chestnut street, between Eighth 
and Ninth streets. 

The Girard Tlouse, a first class establishment, 
is in Chestnut street, directly opposite the Con- 
tinental. 

The La Pierre, one of the most elegapt houses 



* See "New Jersey" for routes to Neir York, and "Dela- 
ware" for routes to Baltimore. 



in the city, is on the west side of Broad near 
Chestnut street. 

The Washington Hotel, in the same vicinage ; 
the St. Lawrence, the American, the Merchants^ 
the St. Louis, and many others. 



This great city is, in extent and population, 
the second in the Union. Its people number 
about half a million— as many as any of the cap- 
itals of Europe (London and Paris only excepted) 
can show. It was settled in 16S2 by a colony of 
English Quakers, under the guidance of William 
Penn. The sobriquet of the City of Brotherly 
Love, which it now bears, was given to it by 
Penn himself. No striking events mark its his- 
tory down to the days of the Revolution, and its 
part in that great drama was more peaceful than 
warlike. The first Congress assembled here, 
and subsequent Congresses, during the continu- 
ance of the war. The Declaration of Independ- 
ence was signed and issued here, July 4th, 1776. 
The Convention which formed the Constitution 
of the Republic assembled here. May, 1787. — 
Here resided the first President of the United 
States, and here, too. Congress continued to 
meet until about 1797. The city was in posses- 
sion of the British troops from September, 1777, 
to June 11, 1778, a result of the unfortunate bat- 
tles of Brandywine and Germantown. 

Philadelphia lies between the Delaware and 
Schuylkill rivers, six miles above their junction, 
and nearly 100 miles (by the Delaware River and 
Bay) from the Atlantic. The site of the city ia 
so low and level, that it does not make a very 
impressive appearance from any approach. But ' 
the elegance and symmetry and neatness of its 
streets— the high cultivation of all its rural cor- 
ners, and the picturesque character of the higher 
suburban land to the northward, fully compen- 
sate for this want. The most thronged portion 
of the city is near the apex of an angle formed by 
the approach of the two rivers, between which it 
is built. Streets extend from river to river, and 
are crossed by other streets at right angles. 

Public Squares. — Washington Square, a little 
south-west of the State House, is finely orna- 
mented with trees and gravelled Walks, is sur- 
rounded by a handsome iron railing, with four 
principal entrances, and is kept in excellent*or- 
der. Independence Square, in the rear of the 
State House, is enclosed by a solid brick wall, 
rising three or four feet above the adjacent 
streets, surmounted by aii iron railing. The en- 



126 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



tire area is laid off in walks and graES-plots, 
shaded with majestic trees. It was within this 
enclosure that the Declaration of Independence 
was first promulgated, and at the present day it 
is frequently used as a place of meeting for po- 
litical and other pui-poses. Franklin Sqitarejhe- 
tween Race and Vine, and Sixth and Franklin 
streets, is an attractive promenade, with a foun- 
tain in its centre, surrounded by a marble basin ; 
it is embellished with a great variety of trees. 
Perm Square is at the intersection of Broad and 
Market streets, now divided into four parts by 
cutting Market and Broad streets through it ; 
Logan Square is betweei'i Eace and Vine streets ; 
and Rittenhouse Square, between Walnut and 
Locust streets. 

Public Buildings. — The State House fronts 
on Chestnut street, and including the wings, 
which are of modern construction, occupies the 
entire block, extending from Fifth to Sixth 
streets. In a room in this building, on the 4th 
of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence 
was adopted by Congress, and publicly pro- 
claimed from the steps on the same day. The 
room presents now the same appearance it did 
on that eventful day, in furniture and interior 
decorations. This chamber is situated on the 
first floor, at the eastern end of the original 
building, and can be seen by visitors on applica- 
tion to the person in charge of the State House. 
In the Hail of Independence is a wooden statue 
of Washington, and some pictures. Visitors 
may overlook the city and its surroundings ad- 
mirably from the cupola of this building. 

The Girard College is situated on the Ridge 
Road, in a north-west direction from the city 
proper, about two miles from the State House. 
It was founded by the late Stephen Girard, a 
a native of France, who died in 1831, and be- 
queathed $2,000,000, for the purpose of erect- 
ing suitable buildings for the education of or- 
phans. 

The commanding site of the edifice occupies 
an area of about 45 acres, left for the purpose 
by the founder of the institution. The central, 
or college budding, is 218 feet long, 160 broad, 
and 97 high, and is a very noble marble struc- 
ture of the Corinthian order. The other build- 
ings, six in number, surround the main edi- 
fice. 

The Merchants' Exchange, situated between 
Dock, Walnut, and Third streets, is of white 
marble. It is a beautiful structure, and of its 
. kind, one of the finest in the country. 

The United States Mint is in Chestnut street, 
below Broad street, and fronts on the former 
street 122 feet. It is built of white marble, in 
the style of a Grecian Ionic temple, and com- 
prises several distinct apartments. Coining is 



among the most interesting and attractive of 
processes, to those who have never witnessed 
such operations. Visitors are admitted during 
the morning of each day, until one o'clock, on 
application to the proper officers. 

The Custom House, formerly the United States 
Bank, is located in Chestnut street, between 
Fourth and Fifth streets. It is a chaste speci- 
men of the Doric order of architecture, after the 
Parthenon at Athens, with the omission of the 
colonnades at the sides. It was commenced in 
1819, and completed in about five years, at a cost 
of half a million of dollars. 

The United States Navy Yard is located in 
Front street, below Prime, and contains within 
its limits about 12 acres. It is enclosed on three 
sides by a high and substantial brick wall ; the 
east side fronts on and is open to the Delaware 
River. Its entrance is in Front street. The 
Yard contains every preparation necessary for 
building vessels of Avar, and has marine barracks, 
with quarters for the officers. 

Many of the bank edifices of Philadelphia are 
very elegant, and imposing, buUt of marble and 
other rich material. 

The Churches of the city are about 300 in 
number, of all denominations, and new ones are 
continually making their appearance. 

The Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
on Logan Square, is built of red stone, in the 
Roman style. It is crowned with a dome 210 
feet high. 

The Church of St. Marie's (Episcopal), is a 
beautiful edifice of light-red sand-stone, with a 
tower and steeple of admirable grace. 

ChrisVs Church, with its soaring spire, is a 
very interesting object in its ancient and quaint 
aspect. 

The Church of Calvary (Presbyterian), and 
the Baptist Church in Broad and Arch streets, 
are also of sand-stone, with imposing towers and 
spires. We may also mention among the 
churches of the greatest architectural interest : 
St. Stephen's (Episcopal), the Catholic Church 
of the Assumption, St. Jude's, the Presbyterian 
Churches, upon Arch and Eighteenth streets, 
and upon Arch and Tenth streets ; the Church 
of the Nativity, the Baptist Churches on Chest- 
nut and Fifth streets. In the towers of St. 
Peter's, St. Stephen's, and of Christ Church, 
there are chimes of bells. 

The American Baptist Publication Society is 
located in Arch street ; the Presbyterian Board 
of Publication is on Chestnut street. Besides 
these religious associations, there are the Amer- 
ican Sunday School Union, the Pennsylvania and 
the Philadelphia Bible Societies, and the Female 
and the Friends' Bible Societies, with numerous 
others. 



PENKSYLVANIA. 



127 



Benevolent Institutions. — The county 
Almshouse, Bituated on the west side of the 
Schuylkill, opposite South street, is an immense 
Btruoturc, consisting of four main buildings, 
covering and enclosing about 10 acres of ground, 
and fronting on the Schuylkill River. The site 
is much elevated above the bank of the river, 
and commands a iine view of the city and sur- 
rounding country. The Pennsylvania Hospital, 
in Pine street, between Eighth and Ninth streets, 
is an admirable institution. It contains an ana- 
tomical museum, and a library of more than 
8,000 volumes. In the rear of the lot fronting on 
Bpruce street, is a small building which contains 
West's celebrated picture of Christ Healing the 
Sick, presented to this institution by its author. 
The United States Marine Hospital or Naval 
Asylum has a handsome situation on the east 
bank of the Schuylkill below South street. It is 
for the use of invalid seamen, and officers dis- 
abled in the service. — TJie Pennsylvania Institu- 
tion for the Deaf and Dumb is situated on the 
corner of Broad and Pine streets, having exten- 
sive buildings adapted for the purposes of the 
establishment. — The Pennsylvania Institution 
for the Instruction of the Blind is situated in Race 
street, corner of Twenty-first street. 

Art Societies. The Pennsylvania Academy 
of Fine Arts, an old and most important institu- 
tion, has a iine building, with a noble suite of 
galleries upon Chestnut street, between Tenth 
and Eleventh streets. It possesses a very valuable 
and permanent collection of pictures, and makes 
an annual exhibition of new works. Among its 
old pictures, are "West's Death on the Pale 
Horse, and Alston's Dead Man Restored. No 
citizen or stranger should neglect to visit these 
galleries. 

LiTERAKT AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. The 

American Philosophical Society was founded in 
1743, principally through the exertions of Dr. 
Franklin ; its hall is situated in South Fifth 
street, below Chestnut, and in the rear of the 
State House. In addition to its library of 15,000 
volumes of valuable works, the society has a fine 
collection of minerals and fossils, ancient relics, 
and other interesting objects. Strangers are ad- 
mitted to tlie hall on application to the librarian. 
— The Philadelphia Library is situated in Eifth 
street, below Chestnut, on the north corner of 
Liberty street. It was founded in 1731 by the 
influence of Dr. Frankhn. This institution, to- 
gether with the Loganian, which occupies the 
same building, possesses about 65,000 volumes. — 
The Athenceum in Sixth below Walnut street, 
contains the periodical journals of the d.ay, and a 
library consisting of several thousand volumes. 
The rooms are open every day and evening 
(Sundays excepted) throughout the year. 



Strangers are admitted gratuitously for one 
month, on introduction by a member. — The 
Franklin Institute was incorporated in 1S24 ; it 
is situated in Seventh street, below Market. Its 
members are very numerous, composed of manu- 
facturers, artists, mechanics, and persons friend 
ly to the mechanic arts. The annual exhibitions 
of this institute never fail to attract a large num- 
ber of visitors. It has a library of about 6,000 
volumes, and an extensive reading room, whero 
most of the periodicals of the day may be found. 
Strangers are admitted to the rooms on applica- 
tion to the actuary.— The Academy of Natural 
Sciences, incorporated in 1817, has a well-select- 
ed library of about 14,000 volumes, besides an 
extensive collection of objects in natural history. 
Its splendid hall is in Broad street, between 
Chestnut and Walnut. It is open to visitors 
every Saturday afternoon.— The Mercantile Li- 
brary, situated on the corner of Fifth and Li- 
brary streets, was founded in 1822, for the pur- 
pose of diffusing mercantile knowledge. — The 
Apprentices^ Library, corner of Fifth and Arch 
streets, consists of about 14,000 volumes, and is 
open to the youth of both sexes. — The Historical 
Society of Pennsylvania, in the Athenaaum 
buildings, was founded for the purpose of diffus- 
ing a knowledge of local history, especially in 
relation to the State of Pennsylvania. It has 
caused to be published a large amount of infor- 
mation on subjects connected with the early 
history of the State, and is now actively engaged 
in similar pursuits. — The Friends^ Library in 
Race street, below Fifth, has about 3,000 vol- 
umes, which are loaned, free of charge, to per- 
sons who come suitably recommended. — Thero 
are several excellent libraries in the different 
Wards of Philadelphia, which are conducted on 
the most liberal principles. 

Medical Institutions. The University of 
Pennsylvania, which is an admirable institution, 
is situated on the west side of Ninth street, be- 
tween Market and Chestnut. It was founded in 
1791, by the union of the old University and Col- 
lege of Philadelphia. — Jefferson Medical College 
is situated in Tenth street, below Chestnut ; it 
was originally connected with the college at 
Canonsburg, l3Ut it is now an independent insti- 
tution. The number of pupils averages about 
300 annually. The anatomical museum of this 
institution is open to visitors. — Pennsylvania 
Medical College, in Ninth street, below Locust, 
is a flourishing institution of recent origin ; the 
first lectures having been delivered in the winter 
of 1839-'40.— The College of Physicians is an old 
institution, having existed before the Revolution. 
It is one of the principal sources from which 
proceeds the pharmacopceia of the United States. 
— The Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, in. Zano 



128 



PENNSTLTANIA. 



street, above SeTenth, -was the first regularly 
organized institution of its kind in the country. 
Its objects are to impart appropriate instruction, 
to examine drugs, and to cultivate a taste for the 
sciences. The medical schools of Philadelphia 
are famous, all the Union through, and the stu- 
dents who flock to them every winter may be 
numbered by thousands. 

Prisons. The Eastern PeriUentiary, in the 
north-west part of the city, is situated on Coates 
street, corner of Twenty-first street, and south of 
Girard College. It covers about 10 acres of 
ground, is surrounded by a wall 30 feet high, and 
in architecture resembles a baronial castle of the 
Biiddle ages. It is constructed on the principle 
of strictly solitary confinement in separate cells, 
and is admirably calculated for the security, the 
health, and so far as consistent with its objects, 
the comfort of Its oocupants. — The County 
Prison, situated on Passyunk "Road, below 
Federal street, is a spacious Gothic building, 
• presenting an imposing appearance. It is appro- 
priated to the confinement of persons awaiting 
trial,, or those who are sentenced for short 
periods. The Debtoi-'s Prison, adjoining the 
above on the north, is constructed of red sand- 
stone, in a style of massive Egyptian architec- 
ture. — The Ilousg of Jiefug-e \B situated in Parish 
street, between Twenty-third and Twenty-fourth 
streets, and at Bush Hill is the House of Correc- 
tion. 

Oemetekies. The beautiful cemetery of 
Laurel Hill is situated on the Ridge road, three 
and a half miles north-west of the city, and on 
the east bank of the Schuylkill, which is elevated 
about ninety feet above the river. It contains 
about 20 acres, the surface of which is undulating, 
prettily diversified by hill and dale, and adorned 
with a number of beautiful trees. The irregu- 
larity of the ground, together with the foliage, 
shrubs, and fragrant flowers, which here abound 
— the finely-sculptured and appropriate monu- 
ments — with an extensive and diversified view, 
make the whole scene highly impressive. On 
entering the gate, the first object that presents 
itself to the gaze of the visitor is an excellent 
piece of statuary, representing Sir Walter Scott 
conversing with Old Mortality, executed in sand- 
stone by the celebrated Thom. The chapel, 
which is situated on high ground to the right of 
the entrance, is a beautiful Gothic building, il- 
luminated by an immense window of stained 
glass. Mmiument Ceinetery, another beautiful 
enclosure, is situated on Broad street, in the vi- 
cinity of Turner's Lane, in the north part of 
Philadelphia, and about three miles from the 
State Honse. It was opened in 183S, and now 
contains many handsome tombs. — Ko7taldso?i's 
Cemetery, in SMppen street, between Ninth and 



Tenth, occupying an entire square, and sur- 
rounded by an iron railing, is very beautiful. It 
formerly belonged to Mr. Jaiues Ronaldson, 
from whom it takes its name, who divided it into 
lots, and disposed of it for its present purposes. 
— The Woodlands C'eOTeier;/, beyond the Schuyl- 
kill, in "West Philadelphia, is a new burial ground, 
which promises in due course of time to rival 
even Laurel Hill in landscape and monumental 
attractions. 

Places of Amusemext. The Academy of 
3Iusic or Opera House, on Broad and 'Locust 
streets, is a grand establishment, with a front of 
140 feet, and a flank of 238. The first story is of 
brown stone, and the rest of pressed brick with 
brown-stone dressings. The auditorium will seat 
8000 persons. The Walnut Street Theatre is at 
the corner of Walnut and Ninth streets. Arch 
Street Theatre is in Arch street, above Sixth. 
The Musical Fund Hall is in Locust street, be- 
tween Eighth and Ninth streets. The City 
Museum, Callowhill, below Fifth ; Welch''s Na- 
tional Circus, Walnut street, above Eighth ; 
Concert Hall, Chestnut, below Thirteenth ; 
National Hall, Market street, below Thirteenth^ 
Sansojn Street Hall, Sansom, above^ Sixth ; the 
Assembly Buildings, Chestnut and Tenth streets. 
The Markets of Philadelphia are worthy of es- 
pecial notice, in their great extent and admira- 
ble appointment. 

Cars and stages to all parts of the city and 
suburbs, are easily to be found. 

The "Vicinity of Philadelphia. — Laurel 
Hill and other cemeteries, and the Girard Col- 
lege, we have already mentioned. 

Camden, N. J., is opposite Philadelphia. 
The Camden and Amboy and the Camden and 
Atlantic K. R. terminate here. 

The Pairmount "Water "Works, which 
supply the city bountifully, are on the cast bank 
of the Schuylkill, about two miles north-west 
from the heart of the city, occupying an area 
of 30 acres, a large part of which consists of the 
"mount," an eminence 100 feet above tide wa- 
ter in the river below, and about 60 feet above 
the most elevated ground in the city. The top 
is divided into four reservoirs, capable of con- 
taining 22,000,000 gallons, one of which, is divid- 
ed into three sections for the purpose of filtra- 
tion. The whole is surrounded by a beautiful 
gravel-walk, from which may be had a fine view 
of the city. The reservoirs contain an area of 
over six acres ; they are 12 feet deep, lined with 
stone and paved with brick, laid in a bed of clay, 
in strong lime cement, and made water-tight. 
The power necessary for forcing the water into 
the reservoirs, is obtained by throwing a dam 
across the Schuylkill ; and by means of wheels 
moved by the water, which work forcing pumps, 



PESrifSTLVANIA. 



129 



ttio water of the river is raised to tlie reservoirs 
on the top of the " mount." The dam is 1,600 
feet long, and the race upwards of 400 feet long 
and 90 wide, cut in solid rock. The mill-house 
is of stone, 23S feet long, and 56 wide, and capa- 
ble of ooutaining eight wheels, and each pump 
will raise about 1,250,000 gallons in 24 hours.— 
The Spring Garden Water-works are situated 
on the Schuylkill, a short distance above Fair- 
mount. 

Th.e Falls of the Schuylkill are about 
four miles above the city, on the river of that 
name. Shice the erection of the dam at Fair- 
mount, the falls have entirely disappeared. — 
From the city to the falls, however, is a very 
pleasant drive ; and they might be reached in a 
return visit to the Wissahiokon. 

The Schuylkill Viaduct, three miles 
north-west from the city, is 980 feet in length, 
and crossed by the Reading Railroad. 

Wissahickon Creek, a stream remarkable 
for its romantic and beautiful scenery, falls into 
the Schuylkill about six miles above the city. — 
It has a regular succession of cascades, which in 
the aggregate amount to about 700 feet. Its 
banks, for the most part, are elevated and pre- 
cipitous, covered with a dense forest, and diver- 
sified by moss-covered rocks of every variety. 
The banks of the beautiful Wissahickon afford 
one of the most delightful rides in the vicinity 
of Philadelphia, and are a great resort for the 
citizens, picnic parties, and Sunday Schools. 

Manayunk, seven miles from the centre of 
the city, is a large manufacturing place. It is 
indebted for its existence to the water created 
by the improvement of the Schuylkill, which 
serves the double purpose of renderingtho stream 
navigable, and of supplying hydraulic power to 
the numerous factories of the village. 

G-ermantown is included in the 22d Ward 
of the city. It is some half a dozen miles from 
the municipal heart, and may be reached every 
fifteen minutes by city railroads and steam cars. 

Greenwich Point, about three miles below 
the city, and Gloucester Point, directly opposite, 
are favorite places of resort during the summer 
season. Steamboats run many times daily from 
Philadelphia. Fare to the former place, 5 cents 
— to the latter, SJ cents. 

Bedford Springs.— Hotels :— 

Routes. — To Huntington by the Central Penn- 
sylvania Railroad, 202 miles from Philadelphia ; 
from Ilarrisburg, 92 miles ; and from Hunting- 
ton by the Huntington and Broad Top Railroad 
to Hopewell ; from Hopewell, 18 miles by stage. 
Through from Baltimore, Philadelphia, or Peters- 
burg, to the Springs, same day. 

6* 



Bedford Springs, about one mile from the town 
of Bedford, Pa., have long been celebrated 'for 
their highly medicinal virtues. The Springs are 
chalybeate, iron, and sulphur, from the former 
of which is taken the famous " Bedford Water." 
The hotel accommodations are excellent, and the 
pleasure grounds and promenades very attract- 
ive. 

Doubling: Gap White Sulphur Springs.— 
Hotels : — 

Routes. — By the Cumberland Valley Railroad 
to lSrew\-ille ; SO miles from Harrisburg ; 22 
miles from Cumberland, and thence by stage. 

Valley Forge, the memorable head-quarters 
of Genei-al Wasliington during the winter of 
1777, is 23 miles from Philadelphia, on the rail- 
way to Reading. The old head-quarters is -still 
standing near the railroad, from whence it can 
be seen. 

Pottstown, 37 miles from Philadelphia, is 
prettily situated on the left bank of the Schuyl- 
kill. The houses, which are built principally 
upon one broad street, are surrounded by fine 
gardens and elegant shade trees. The scenery 
of the surrounding hills is very fine, especially 
in the fall of the year, when the foliage is tinged 
with a variety of rich autumnal tints. The 
Reading Railroad passes through one of its 
streets, and crosses the Manatawny on a lattice 
bridge, 1,071 feet in length. 

Reading, 58 miles from Philadelphia by 
railway, is a pleasant place for a summer home, 
upon the banks of the Schuylkill River. 

Port Clinton is 78 miles from Philadelphia, 
on the Reading Railroad. It is an agreeable 
place at the mouth of the Little Schuylkill. 

Schuylkill Haven, also on the banks of 
the Schuylkill, in the midst of a very interesting 
landscape region. A branch road comes in here 
from the great coal districts. From Philadel- 
phia, 89 miles by Reading Railroad. 

Pottsville, the terminus of the Philadelphia 
and Reading route, is 93 miles from Philadelphia. 
It is upon the edge of the coal basin, in the gap 
by which the SchuylkUl comes through Sharp's 
Mountain. 

Allentown, 51 miles from Philadelphia, is 
upon the railroad from Easton, Pa., to Mauch 
Chunk. It is built upon liigh ground, near the 
Lehigh river, at the junction of Jordan and Lit- 
tle Leliigh creeks. The mineral springs here 
are highly prized by those who have tried the 
efficacy of their waters. A visit to " Big Rock," 
1,000 feet in elevation, a short distance from the 
village, will amply repay the tourist, by the ex- 
tent and richness of the scene there spread out 
before him in every direction. 



130 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



Bethlehem is upon the Lehigh, 52 miles 
from Philadelphia, and 11 miles from Easton. 
May be reached from New York and Philadel- 
phia by Railway. Routes to Easton, and thence 
12 miles by Lehigh Valley Railroad to Mauoh 
Chunk. It is the principal seat of the United 
Brethren, or Moravians, in the United States, 
and was oi-iginally settled under Count Zinzen- 
dorf, in 1741. The village contains a large stone 
church of Gothic architecture, 142 feet long and 
68 feet wide, and capable of seating 2,000 per- 
sons. It has also a Moravian Seminary of very 
high reputation. 

Nazareth, another pretty Moravian village, 
is situated 10 miles north from Bethlehem, and 
7 miles north-west from Easton. 

Mauch Chunk, is in the midst of the 
great Pennsylvania coal regions, 43 miles from 
Easton by railwaj^, and 100 miles from Harris- 
burg, the State capital. It is upon the Lehigh, 
in one of its wildest and most romantic pas- 
sages. Mount Pisgah, a short distance north, 
rises 1,000 feet along the river. A railway has 
been constructed, 9 miles, to Summit Hill, down 
which the coal-laden cars come by the force of 
their own gravity. We are here in the vicinage 
of the beautiful scenery of the Susquehanna 
River, which we shall visit in another chapter. 

Easton.— Hotels : — American. 

From New York 75 miles by N. J. Central 
E. K. From Philadelphia SO miles by Belvidere, 
■Delaware & Flemington E. E. Pop., 12,000. 



PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG AND 
THE "WEST. 

BY THE PENNSYLVANIA RAILWAY. 

This route is one of the great highways from 
the Atlantic to the Mississippi States. The 
Pennsylvania Central Road, with some com- 
pleting links, extends 355 miles from the city of 
Philadelphia, through the entire length of Penn- 
sylvania, to the Ohio River at Pittsburg, con- 
necting there with routes for all parts of the 
South-west, "West, and the North-west. Through 
trains (15 hours to Pittsburg) run morning, noon, 
and night. Philadelphia station, south-east cor- 
ner of Eleventh and Market streets ; entrance on 
Eleventh street. 

Lancaster. — Hotels : — MichaePs (,Grapes) 
Hotel : City Hotel : Red Lion. 

Lancaster, a city of more than 18,000 inhabi- 



tants, is upon the Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 
near the Conestoga creek. It was at one time 
the principal inland town of Pennsylvania, and 
was the seat of the State government from 1799 
to 1S12. In population it now ranks as the fourth 
in the State. It is pleasantly situated in the 
centre of a very rich agricultural region, well- 
built, and has many fine edifices, public and 
private. It is the seat of Marshall College, organ- 
ized in 1853, in union with the old establishtnent 
of Prankhn College, which was founded in 1787. 
Fulton Hall, an edifice for the use of public as- 
semblies, is a noteworthy structure here, as are 
some of the score of churches. The oldest turn- 
pike road in the United States terminates here, 
62 miles from Philadelphia. One of the sources 
of the prosperity of Lancaster is the navigation 
of the Conestoga, in a series of nine locks and 
slack water pools, 18 miles in length from, the 
town of Safe Harbor in the Susquehanna, at the 
mouth of the Conestoga. "With the help of Tido- 
"Water Canal to Port Deposit, a navigable com- 
munication is opened to Baltimore. 

"Wheatland, "the seat of the Hon. James 
Buchanan, ex-Pi-esident of the United States, is a 
few miles from Lancaster. 

Harrisburg. — Hotels : — Coverly's : Herr's. 

Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, is 
upon the east bank of the Susquehanna, 106 
miles from Philadelphia. From the dome of 
the State House, a fine view is obtained of the 
wide and winding river, its beautiful islands, its 
interminable bridges, and the surrounding ranges 
of the Kittatinny Mountains. The Cumberland 
Valley road diverges at Harrisburg for Cham- 
bersburg, 52 miles distant, and the Dauphin and 
Susquehanna, 59 miles to Auburn, on the Phila- 
delphia and Reading R. R. The north Central 
Road is to Baltimore, Md., 85 miles : the Colum- 
bia Branch to Columbia ; also the Lebanon Val- 
ley R. R. for Reading, 54 miles. 

About 14 miles beyond Harrisburg, the route 
crosses and leaves the Susquehanna River, and 
thenceforward follows the banks of the Juniata 
for about 100 mUes to the eastern base of the 
Alleghanies, the canal keeping the road and 
river company most of the way — of the Ju- 
niata part of the route we shall speak directly^ 
sending the traveller on, if he is in haste, to 
Pittsburg, over the Alleghanies, by the help of 
the wonderful specimens of the power of the 
engineer's art, which will interest htm on the 
way : the tunnel, 3,612 feet long, in which he 
wiU pass through the Alleghany Mountains, 
2,200 feet above the sea; the great inclined 
planes of the Portage Railroad, and other mar- 
vels of art and of nature. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



131 



Pittsburg, Pa.— Hotels :— The Mononga- 
hela House. 

Pittsburg, Pa., is upon the Ohio river, at tlie 
confluence of the Alleghany and the Monoii- 
galiela. It is situated in a diatrict extremely 
rich in mineral wealth, and the enterprise of the 
people has been directed to the development of 
its resources, -with an energy and success seldom 
paralleled. The city of Pittsburg enjoys, from 
its situation, admirable commercial facilities, 
and has become the centre of an extensive com- 
merce with the Western States ; while its vicinity 
to inexhaustible iron and coal mines has raised 
it to great distinction as a manufacturing place. 

The city was laid out in 1*765, on the site of 
Fort Du Quesne, subsequently changed to Fort 
Pitt. It is situated on a triangular point, at the 
confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela 
rivers, which here form the Ohio. Pittsburg is 
connected with the left bank of the Monongahela 
by a bridge 1,500 feet long, which was erected at 
a cost of §102,000 dollars. Four bridges cross 
the Alleghany river, connecting Pittsburg with 
Alleghany City. 

There are several places in the vicmity of 
Pittsburg, which, as they may be considered 
parts of one great manufacturing and commer- 
cial city, are entitled to a notice here. Alleghany 
Citij, opposite to Pittsburg, on the other side of 
the Alleghany river, is the most important of 
them. The elegant residences of many persons 
doing business in Pittsburg may be seen here, 
occupying commanding situations. Here is lo- 
cated the Western Theological Seminary of the 
Presbyterian Church, an institution founded by 
the General Assembly in 1825, and established 
in this town in 1827. Situated on a lofty, insu- 
lated ridge, 100 feet above the Alleghany, it 
aftbrds a magnifloent prospect. The Theological 
Seminary of the Associated Reformed Church, 
established in 182G, and the Alleghany Theologi- 
cal Institute, organized in 1840 by the Synod of 
the Reformed Presbyterian Church, are also lo- 
cated here. The Western Penitentiary is an 
immense building in the ancient Norman style, 
situated on a plain on the western border of Al- 
leghany City. It was completed in 1827, at a 
co.st of $183,000. The United States Arsenal is 
located at Lawrenceville, a small but pretty vil- 
lage two and a half miles above Pittsburg, on 
the left bank of the Alleghany river. 

Birmingham is another considerable suburb 
of Pittsburg, lying about a mile from the centre 
of the city, on the south side of the Monongahela, 
and connected with Pittsburg by a bridge 1,500 
feet long, and by a ferry. It has important 
manufactories of glass and iron. 

Manchester is two miles below Pittsburg, on 



the Ohio. The U. S. Marine Hospital is yet 
below. 

It is usual to speak of extensive manufactories 
as being in Pittsburg, though they are not within 
the limits of the city proper, but are distributed 
over a circle of five miles' radius from the court- 
house on Grant's Hill. This space includes the 
cities of Pittsburg and Alleghany, the boroughs 
of Birmingham and Lawrenceville, and a num- 
ber of towns and villages, the manufacturing 
establishments in which have their warehouses 
in Pittsburg, and may consequently be deemed, 
from the close connection of their general in- 
terests and business operations, a part of the 
city. There are within the above compass about 
eighty places of religious worship, and a popula- 
tion of not less than 100,000. 

The stranger in Pittsburg will derive both 
pleasure and instruction by a visit to some of its 
great manufacturing establishments, particularly 
those of glass and iron. During the summer 
season Pittsburg is an immense thoroughfare, 
large numbers of travellers and emigrants pass- 
ing through it on their way westward. The 
population of Pittsburg is about 111,000. 



The Juniata. This beautiful river, whose 
course is closely followed so many miles by the 
Pennsylvania Railroad and Canal, rises in the 
south central part of the Keystone State, and 
flowing eastward falls into the Susquehanna 
about 14 miles above Harrisburg. 

The landscape of the Juniata is in the highest 
degree picturesque, and many romantic summer 
haunts will be found, by and by, among its val- 
leys ; though at present very little tarry is made 
in the region, from its attractions being unknown, 
and the comforts of the traveller being as yet 
unprovided for. The mountain background, as 
we look continually across the river from the 
cars, is often strikingly bold and beautiful. This 
clause refers to a scene in the upper part of 
the river, near Water street, a point which the 
railroad leaves some miles to the south, or left. 
The Little Juniata, which with the Frankstown 
branch forms the main river, is a stream of wild 
romantic beauty. The entire length of the Ju- 
niata, as well as its branches, is estimated at 
nearly 150 miles, and its entire course is through 
a region of mountains, in which iron ore ia 
abundant, and of fertile limestone valleys. 

THE COAL RBGION. 

From Philadelphia. 
The Philadelphia and Reading Railway ex- 
tends 93 miles from Philadelphia to PottavUle, 



132 



PENNSTLTANIA. 



in tho heart of the great Coal regions of the 
State. It passes through Valley Forge, Reading, 
Auhurn and other places, for which see Index. 

The Cataunssa, WiUiaiusport and Erie Rail- 
ioa'j, connects Philadelphia with the Erie Rail- 
way at Elmira, K. Y., and hy other routes from 
that point with Niagara Falls and all the lines 
from New York to the great West and North- 
west. It leads to the coal heds of Pennsylvania 
at Catawissa on the Susquehanna, and thence 
np the west hranch of that river to Williams- 
port. The entire passage of this road is amidst 
natural scenes of great variety and heauty. 

The North Pennsylvauin Railroad extends 33 
miles, to Doylestown, Fa. 

The Belvidere, Delaware and Flemington 
Railroad extends, via Easton, Pa. (50 miles), to 
Belvidere, 6i miles. 

THE SUSQUEHANNA AND ITS VICIN- 
AGE. 

Wo will now look at the chief scenes and 
places of interest in Pennsylvania, lying npon 
and about the great Susquehanna River and its 
tributaries, and at the railways, canals and other 
highways of travel which communicate with and 
intersect that part of the State. 

The Susquehanna is tho greatest of the rivers 
of Pennsylvania, traversing as it does its entire 
breadth from north to south, and in its most inte- 
resting and most important regions. It lies 
about midway between the centre and the east- 
ern boundary of the State, and flows in a zig-zag 
course, now south-east and now south-west, and 
BO on over and over, following very much the 
windings of the Delaware, which separates the 
State from New Jersey. The Pennsylvania Ca- 
nal accompanies it in all its course, from Wyo- 
minc; on the north to the Chesapeake Bay on the 
Bouth. All the great railroads intersect or ap- 
proach its waters at some point or other, and the 
richest coal lands of the State ho contiguous to 
the borders. 

The Susquehanna, in its main branch, rises in 
Otsego Lake, in the S. E. central part of New 
York, and pursues a very tortuous but generally 
Bouth-west course. This main, or North, or East 
Branch, as it is severally called, when it reaches 
the central part of Pennsylvania — after a journey 
of 250 miles — is joined at Northumberland by the 
West Branch, whicli comes in 200 miles from the 
declivities of the AUeghanies. The course of 
this arm of the river is nearly eastward, and, as 
with the North Branch, through a country 
abounding with coal, and other valuable pro- 
ducts. It is also followed by a canal, for more 
than a hundred miles up. 

The route of the New York and Erie Railway 



is upon or near the banks of the Susquehanna in 
southern New York, and occasionally across tho 
Pennsylvania line, for 50 miles, tirst touching the 
river near the Cascade Bridge, nearly 200 miles 
from New York, passing the cities of Bingham- 
ton and Owego, and fin.ally losing sight of it just 
beyond Barton, some 250 miles from the metropo- 
lis. The tourist, seeking the picturesque regions 
of the river, from New York, may take tho Erie 
Route, 201 miles to Great Bend, and thence 
southward by the Delaware, Lackawanna and 
Western Road, via Scranton, and stage to 
Wilkesbarre, in the valley of Wyoming. This 
railway continues on to Lehigh and Easton 
(Delaware Water Gap) and Elizabethport, back 
to New York. 

The Catawissa, Williamsport and Erie Rail- 
way connects Philadelphia with Catawissa, in a 
beautiful part of the main ai'in of the Susque- 
hanna below the Wyoming region, and with 
Williamsport, in the finest part of the West 
Branch, continuing on through Elmira, N. Y.,to 
the Falls of Niagara. From Philadelphia, via 
Port Clinton, on the Reading Railroad, to Cata- 
wissa 145 miles, to WiUiamsport 197 miles. By 
this route passengers may go through from Phila- 
delphia to Buffalo in 10 hours, to Niagara Falls 
in 18 hours, to Detroit in 26 hours, to Chicago in 
36 hours, to St. Louis in 48 hours. Day express 
from Philadelphia breakfasts at Port CUnton 
and dines at Wihiamsport. 

The Great Pennsylvania Railroad, via Pitts- 
burg to the West, follows the Susquehanna from 
the vicinity of Harrisburg some 14 miles up to 
the mouth of the Juniata. 

Tho Northern Central Road, from Baltimore, 
touches the Susquehanna at Harrisbm-g, 85 miles 
distant, where it connects with the Pennsylvania 
Railroad for Pittsburg. 

A branch road from Harrishurg follows the 
river down 28 miles to Columbia. 

A pleasant route from Philadelphia or New 
York to the Valley of Wyoming, is by railway 
from either city to Easton, near the Delaware 
Water Gap, thence by the Lehigh Valley Road 
to the coal regions at Mauch Chunk, and thence 
to Wilkesbarre. 

The entire length of the Susquehanna (or 
Crooked River) is about 500 miles, and the coun- 
try which it traverses is of every aspect, in turn, 
from the gentlest pastoral air to the wildest hu- 
mors of the stern mountain pass. The region 
most sought, and deservedly so, by the tourist in 
quest of landscape beauties, is that around and 
below the Valley of Wyoming. From this point 
down many miles to Northumberland, where the 
West Branch comes in, the scenery is everywhere 
strikingly fine at brief intervals ; but the best 
and boldest mountain passes extend from five to 



PEJTKSTLVANIA. 



133 



ten miles 'bclo-w the Boiithern outlet of "Wyoming, 
around Nanticoke and Sliicksbinuey. This is 
the region par excellence for the study of the 
artist. Portions, also, of the West Branch — 
though not yet very much visited — are remark- 
ably fliic. 

The Valley of ■Wyoming' and Wilkes- 
barre. — At Wilkesbarre, in the heart of the 
Wyoming Valley, there is (near the river) a most 
excellent hotel. The village is beautifully placed 
upon a plain twenty feet above the river. Pros- 
pect Rook, three miles distant, overlooks the 
Valley most charmingly. 

" Wyoming," says Mr. Minor, in a pleasant 
history of this vicinity, " though now generally 
cleared and cultivated, yet to protect the soil 
from floods, a fringe of trees is left along each 
bank of the .river — the sycamore, the elm, and 
more especially the black walnut — while here 
and there, scattered through the fields, a huge 
shell-bark yields its summer shade to the weary 
laborers, aod its autumn fruit to the black or gray 
squirrel or the rival plough-boys. Pure streams 
of water come leaping from the mountains, im- 
parting health and pleasure in their course, all 
of them abounding with the delicious trout. 
Along these brooks, and in the swales scattered 
through the uplands, grow the wild-plum and 
the butternut ; while, wherever the hand of the 
white man has spared it, the native grape may 
he gathered in unlimited profusion." 

* " Wyoming is a classic and a household 
name. At our earliest intelligence it takes its 
place in our hearts as the label of a treasured 
packet of absorbing history and winning ro- 
mance. It is the key which unlocks the thrill- 
ing recollections of some of the most tragical 
scenes in our national history, and some of the 
sweetest imaginations of the poet. Every fancy 
makes a Mecca of Wyoming. Thus sings Hal- 
leck — 

"WTien life was in its bud and blossoming, 
And waters gusliing from the fountain spring 

Of pure enthusiast thought, dimm'd my young eyeSj 

As by the poet borne on unseen wing, 

I ijreathed in fancy 'neath thy cloudless slcies, 

The summer's air, and heard her echoed harmonies.' 

" The pen of Camphell and the pencil of Tur- 
ner have taken their loftiest and most un- 
bridled flights in praise of Wj'oming, and 
though they have changed, they have not flat- 
tered its beauties. 

'Nature hath made thee lovelier than the power 
Even of Campbell's pen hath pictured.' 

" Again, Halleck says of the mythical Ger- 

* The Author, in Harpers' Magazine for October, 1853, vol. 
vii., p. 615. 



trude, the fair Spirit of Wyoming, and of the 
real maidens of the land — 

' But Gertrude, in her loveliness and bloom, 
Hath many a model here ; for woman's eye 

In court or cottage, whereso'er her home. 
Hath a heart-spell too holy and too high 

To be o'erprais'd, even by her worshipper — Poesy 1 ' " 

The terrible Battle of Wyoming — which has 
been so often the theme of the pencil and tho 
pen, occurred on July 3d, 1778. Few of the ill- 
fated people escaped. Prisoners were grouped 
around large stones, and were murdered with 
the tomall k, amidst yells and incantations of 
fiendish t) amph. One of these stones of in- 
human sacrifice may yet be seen in the Valley. 
It is called Queen Esther's Rock, and lies near 
the old river bank, some three miles above Fort 
Forty. The village of Wilkesharre was burned 
at this time, and its inhabitants were killed or 
taken prisoners, or scattered in the surrounding 
forests. 

The site of Fort Forty is across the river from 
Wilkesharre, past the opposite village of Kings- 
ton, and nearly west of Troy, five miles and a 
half distant. At this spot, where tho slain were 
buried, there now stands a monument comme- 
morative of the great disaster. It is an obelisk 
62J feet high, made of granite blocks hewn in 
the neighborhood. The names of those who fell 
and of those who were in the battle and survived, 
are engraved upon marble tablets set in the 
base of the monument. This praiseworthy 
work was done by the exertions of the ladies of 
Wyoming. 

KTanticoke and "West Nanticoke are 
little coal villages, at the southern extremity of 
the Wyoming Valley, where as we have already 
intimated occur some of the boldest passages of 
the scenery of the Susquehanna. This point, 
as others upon the banks of the river below, 
must he reached by stage, or by the slow and 
heavily laden canal boats, for railways do not 
yet traverse the way ; and neither are there any 
Isetter accommodations than those of ordinary 
village and wayside inns : at least not until we 
reach Catawissa or Northumberland, where the 
West Branch comes in. A beautiful view of 
Wyoming is seen looking northward from the 
hills on the east side of the river, near Nanti- 
coke ; and the scenes below, from the banks of 
the river and the canal, are most varied and de- 
lightful. The coal mines of this neighborhood 
may easily he penetrated, and with ample re- 
muneration for the venture. 

JessTip's is a very cosy, lone inn, upon the 
west shore, two or three miles below jSTanticoke, 
from whence are seen striking pictures of the 
river and its strong mountain banks both, above 



134 



PENjSTSTLVANIA. 



and below ; the hills in all this vicinity are Im- ' 
pressively bold and lofty, making the com- 
paralively narro-w channel of the river seem yet 
narrower, and italicizing the quiet beauty of 
the many verdant islands which stud the waters 
here, 

Sliicksh-iimey and 'Wapwollopen, yet 
below, are Uttlo places, still in the midst of a 
rugged hill and valley country. Bank of Wap- 
wollopen, on the east shore, is the barren peak of 
its namesake mountain, and the wild waters of 
Wapwollopen Creek. 

Catawissa is on the line of the railways 
from Philadelphia for Williamsport, on the 
West Branch, and thence to Elmira and Nia- 
gara. It is connected also by railway with the 
coal district of Mauch Chunk. The scenery of 
this vicinity is of great variety and beauty. 
From the hill-tops— for Catawissa is buried be- 
tween picturesque hills— remarkable pictures of 
the winding of the river, and its ever-present 
companion, the canal, are to be seen — now at 
the base of grand mural precipices, and, anon, 
though little verdant intervales. 

N'orth.um.'berlaiid.. — Hotels : — Central 
Hotel. 

The west branch of the Susquehanna unites 
here with the main, or north arm, and the vil- 
lage, the pleasantest of all the region round, is 
built upon the point formed by the confluence of 
the two waters. The quiet, cultivated air of 
Northumberland, and its excellent hotel, will be 
very likely to detain the not over-hurried travel- 
ler awhile. 

Sunbtiry is a prosperous town across the 
river. The Sunburj- and Erie B. E. connects 
here with the route from Philadelphia to Wil- 
liamsport and Elmu-a, and with the Phila- 
delphia and Sunbury route. 

"Williamsport.— Hotels :— 

Williamsport is the principal town upon the 
west branch of the Susquehanna. It is a pleas- 
ant place, dehghtfully situated, and mnch in 
vogue as a summer resort. The west branch of 
the canal passes here ; and hei-e, too, the rail- 
way routes from Philadelphia and from Niagara 
Palls meet. The river landscape between Wil- 
liamsport and Northumberland presents in its 
long extent many charming passages. 

Liverpool is a livelj' little town upon the Sus- 
quehanna and the Pennsylvania Canal, below 
Northumberland, and 29 miles above Harris- 
burg. 

The Juniata River comes into the Susque- 
hanna 14 miles above Harrisburg. See Juniata 
in " Pennsylvania K. K. route." 



Harrisburg, the capital of PenMylvania. Bee 
" Pennsylvania R. K. route." 

Columlbia, Pa.— Hotels :— 

The western terminus of the Philadelphia and 
Columbia R.. R. is on the left bank of the Sus- 
quehanna, 28 miles below Harrisburg, and 12 west 
of Lancaster. A part of the town occupies the 
slope of a hiU, which rises gently from the river 
and the business part of the town lies along the 
level bank of the river. The scenery from tho 
hills in the vinioity is highly pleasing. The broad 
river, studded with numerous islands and rocks, 
crossed by a long and splendid bridge, and 
bounded on every side by lofty hills, makes a 
brilliant display. The junction here of the State 
railroad from Philadelphia with the main line of 
the .canal, the railroad to York, 12 miles long, 
and the Tide-water Canal to Maryland, renders 
Columbia a busy place. The main current of 
travel, which formerly passed through here, has 
been diverted by the construction of the Harris- 
burg and Lancaster Railroad ; but the emigrant 
travel still goes by way of Columbia. A flno 
bridge crosses the Susquehanna, more than a 
mile in length. 

York, Pa., is ten miles south-west of the 
Susquehanna, upon the Codorus Creek, 28 miles 
S. S. E. of Harrisburg, 48 miles from Baltimore, 
and 92 from Philadelphia. With all these cities, 
and with yet other points, it is connected by 
railways. The Baltimore and Susquehanna R. 
■R. unites at York with the York and Cumber- 
land, and with the York and Wrightsville Rail- 
roads. The Continental Congress met here in 
1777, during the occupation of Philadelphia by 
the British troops. 

Port Deposit is in Maryland, on the east bank 
of the Susquehanna, at the lowest falls, and 
five miles from its entrance into the Chesapeake 
Bay. Pifty millions of feet of lumber are an- 
nuallj' floated down the great river, and received 
at Port Deposit. There are extensive quarries 
of granite in the neighborhood. 

Havre de Grace is at the head of the Chesa- 
peake Bay, at the mouth of the Susquehanna, 30 
miles northeast of Baltimore. It is upon the line 
of the railway from Philadelphia to Baltimore. 
See that route. 

Carlisle, Pa., is a beautiful and interesting 
town, with a population of 6,000, on the line of 
the Cumberland Valley R. R., 18 miles below 
Harrisburg, and 125 miles west of Philadelphia. 
It lies in the limestone valley country, between 
the Kittatinny and the South Mountains. Dick- 
inson College (Methodist), which is located in. 
Carhsle, is one of the most venerable and es- 
teemed Institutions in Pennsylvania. It was 



PENNSYLVANIA. — MAETLAND. 



185 



founded in 1783. Carlisle is connected by the 
Cumberland Valley road with Harrisburg, on 
the one hand, and with Hagerstown, in Mary- 
land, on the other. General Washington's head- 
quarters were here in 1794, at the time of the 
Wliiskcy Rebellion. Some years before, Major 
Audr6 was a prisoner of war in Carlisle. 



The Delaware Water Gap.— Hotels:— 
KUtatinny House. 

The bold passage of the Delaware River, call- 
ed the Water Gap, is easily and speedily ac- 
cessible from the cities and vicinage of New 
Tork and Philadelphia, and a pleasanter excur- 
sion for a day or two cannot bo well made. The 
Delaware River rises on the western declivity 
of the Catskills, in two streams, which meet at 
the village of Hancock, a station on the New 
York and Erie R. R. At Port Jervis (Erie 
R. R.), after journeying 70 miles, it meets the 



Kittatinny or Shawangunk Mountain, and nest 
breaks through the bold ridge at the Water 
Gap. At this great pass the cliffs rise perpen- 
dicularly, from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, and the river 
rushes through the grand gorge in magniflceut 
style. It afterwards crosses the South Moun- 
tain, not far below Easton (from which point 
the Gap is generally approached; ; next falls 
over the primitive ledge at Trenton, N. J., grows 
by and by into a large navigable river, skirts tho 
wharves of the city of Philadelphia, and is lost, 
100 m lies below, in the Delaware Bay. Tho 
whole length of this tine river, from the moun- 
tains to the bay, is 300 luiles. 

Prom New Tork, take the New Jersey Cen- 
tral road to Easton, Pa., or go from Phila- 
delphia to Easton in the vicinity of the Water 
Gap, and thence by other railways. Prom Great 
Bend on the Erie Railway, take the Delaware, 
Lackawanna, and Western Road to the Water 
Gap. 



MAEYLAND. 

The first settlement in Maryland was made by Leonard Calvert, brother of Lord Baltimore, in 
1634, at St. Mary's. It was one of the earliest of the colonies to grant entire freedom of religious 
faith ; TOtually, though not, as is often written and said, by formal legal enactments. 

Maryland was not the theatre of any of the great battles of the Revolution ; but some impor- 
tant scenes of the war of 1812 took place within her borders. The territory of the State was at 
that period twice invaded by the British troops. They were bravely met and repulsed at the bat- 
tle of North Point, in the Chesapeake (see battle of North Point), September 13, 1814. 

The country which now forms the State of Maryland, was granted to Lord Baltimore by 
Charles I., and was named in honor of Henrietta Maria, Queen of that monarch. Maryland is 
one of the most northern of the slave-holding States, and the most southern of the group distin- 
guished as the Middle States. It is one of the original thirteen. 

The area of the State is 10,210 square miles, a portion of which is covered by the waters of tho 
Chesapeake Bay, which extends within its jurisdiction 120 miles northward. The country upon 
both the eastern and western shores of the Bay is generally level and sandy. The long narrow 
strip which extends westward is a lofty region, crossed by several ridges of the AUeghanies. 
These ranges, with their intervening valleys, afford charming landscape passages to the traveller, 
on the route of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, and make that highway one of the most attrac- 
tive of the many leading from the eastern cities to the great West. The hill-region of Maryland 
abounds in rich mineral deposits. The coal lands, though not very great iiT area, are extremely 
productive. Copper mines are worked in Frederick and Carroll Counties. 

Besides the culture of all the grains, fruits, vegetables, and other products of the Northern 
States, Maryland grows large quantities of tobacco. The State ranks, in the production, of this 
staple, as third in the Union, and, measuring by population, as second. 



The Potomac River forms the boundary 
line between Maryland and Virginia. Along its 
passage of 350 miles, from the mountains to the 



Chesapeake Bay, there is much beautiful and 
varied scenery. The landsc.ipe at its confluence 
with the Shenandoah, near Harper's FcrryjVir- 



136 



MAEYLAND. 



ginia, has long 1)6611 famous among the chief pic- 
turesque -wonders of America. (See Harper's 
Ferry.) The Falls of the Potomac, about 14 
miles above Georgeto-wn, D. C, will repay a 
■visit. The xjrincipal cascade is between 30 and 
40 feet perpendicular pitch, and the rocky clifl's 
on the Virginia side of the river have a very im- 
posing air. 

The Patapsco River flows 80 miles from 
the north part of the State to the Chesapeake 
Bay, which it enters after passing Baltimore, 
and 12 miles below that city. It is navigable as 
far as Baltimore for large merchant ships. It is 
a rapid stream, and is much utilized as a water- 
power. The Baltimore and Ohio Railway is 
Duilt along -the whole extent of the western 
branch of the river. 

The Susqxiehaiina Kiver enters the 
north-east corner of the State, not far from its 
debouche into the Chesapeake. 
^, _TheElk, Choptank, Chester, Nanticoke, and 
Pocomoke, smaller rivers, are all more or lesa 
navicable. 

The Northern Central Railway extends north- 
■ward.from Baltimore 178 miles to Williamsport, 
Pa.,' passing through York, Harrisburg, etc. 
Fi-om "Williamsport the route is extended 78 miles 
to Elmira on the N. Y. and Erie R. R., by the 
Willianwjort and Elmira road. Connects at 
Yorlf ^^l the Wrightville, York and Cumber- 
land R.Jp. i at Bridgeport junction, with the 
Cuniberlarid Valley road ; at Harrisburg, with 
the Penn. Cent, and Lebanon VaUey ; at Dau- 
phin, with the Dauphin and Susquehanna ; and 
at Sunbury, with the Sunbury and Erie. 

Baltimore from Philadelphia. 

By Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore 
Railway, 97 miles, via 'Wilmington (Del.) and 
Havre de Grace (Md.), or by the Newcastle and 
Frenchtown route. See chapter on Delaware. 

BALTIMORE AND VICINITY. 

Baltimore.— Hotels -.—BarnurrC s ; Eutaw 
House; Gilmor House ; Mallby House. 

Baltimore, one of the four great eastern cities, 
with a population of over 212,000, is Imposingly 
situated upon the Patapsco River, 12 miles from 
its entrance into the Chesapeake Bay, and about 
200 miles, by these waters, from the sea. Built, 
as it is, upon hill-slopes and terraces, its appear- 
ance is, perhaps, more picturesque than that of 
any other city in the Union. Striking, indeed, 
is the unlooked-for scene, gazing from the water 
upward, through the climbing streets, capped at 
their tops by soaring spire and dome, in whose 
midst, and above all, soars the proud crest of the 
famous monument to AVashington ; and hardly 
lesB attractive is the picture as the eye looks down- i 



ward from these elevated points upon the busy 
city and its surrounding lands and waters. 

The piresent' site of Baltimore was chosen Jn' 
1729, and its name was bestowed upon it, in 
1745, in honor of Lord Baltimore. In 17S0 it be- 
came a port of entry, with the accompaniments 
of custom-house, naval officers, etc. In 1782 the 
first pavements were laid on Baltimore street, 
the chief avenue of the city at that period, as at 
the present time. In the same year the iirst 
regular communication with Philadelphia was 
established, through a line of stage-coaches. 
The corporate character of the city began in 
1797 only. The population at this date was only 
a few thousands, increased by the year 1854 
more than 200,000. The next census will 
doubtedly show still greater numbers ; and so^ 
each succeeding enumeration — for the natural 
advantages of the cfty promise it ever-increasing 
progress. 

The Washington Monument, chief among the 
structures of this kind, from which Baltimore 
has won the name of the Monumental City, is a 
very graceful work, standing upon a terrace 100 
feet above the water, in Mt. Vernon Place, at 
the intersection of Charles and Monument 
streets. Its base is 50 feet square and 20 feet 
high, supporting a Doric shaft 176J feet in height, 
which is still surmounted by a colossal statue 
of "Washington, 16 feet high. The total eleva- 
tion is thus 312^ feet above the level of the river. 
It is built with brick, cased with white marble, 
and cost $200,000. The ascent is made by a 
winding stairway within. 

Battle Monument, erected to the memory of 
those who fell defending the city in September, 
1814, is at the corner of Calvert and Fayette 
streets. The square sub-base on which the 
l^edestal or column rests, rises 20 feet from the 
ground, with an Egyptian door on each front, on 
which are appropriate inscriptions and represen- 
tations, in basso-relievo, of some of the incidents 
of the battle. The column rises 18 feet above 
the bfse. This, which is of marble, in the form 
of a Roman fasces, is encircled by bands, on 
which are inscribed, in sculptured letters, the 
names of those whose patriotic achievements it 
serves to commemorate. It is surmounted by a 
female figure in marble, emblematic of the City 
of Baltimore. The whole height of the monu- 
ment is 52 feet. 

Armistead Monument, near the City Spring, Is 
merely a tablet, sunken in a subterranean niche. 
It was erected to the memory of Col. George 
Armistead, the commander at Fort Henry, in 
1814, through whose intrepidity a British fleet 
of sixteen sail was repulsed, after having bom- 
barded the fort for twenty-four hours. This 
stone is often spoken of abroad as among the 



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MARYLAND. 



137 



' \ monumental ■wonders of Baltimore— to which 
glory, however, it lias no kind of claim. The 
good people of the city never think of alluding 
to it. 

Pdbhc Bcjildings. The Exchange, In Gay 
street, i.-^ a large and elegant structure, with a 
faf ade of 240 feet. The building has colonnades 
of six louio columns on its east and west sides, 
the shafts of which are single blocks of line Ital- 
ian marble of admirable workmanship. The 
■whole is surmounted by an immense dome, the 
apex of which is 115 feet above the street. The 
Custom House occupies the first story of the 
south wiug of the Exchange, fronting on Lom- 
bard street. 

In the north-east is the Merchants' Bank, 
"While the Rotunda is 'used for the City Post 
Office. The Reading Room is a fine apartment, 
50 feet square. The Maryland Institute, on Bal- 
timore street, has a depth of 355 feet. The first 
Btory of this immense building is occupied as a 
market. 

Carroll Sail, at the corner of Baltimore and 
Calvert streets, contains spacious lecture and ex- 
hibition rooms. The railroad depot is an exten- 
sive and admirable building. 

CntiRcnES. The most imposing structure of 
this class is the Catholic Cathedral, corner of 
Cathedral and Mulberry streets. It is built of 
granite, in the form of a cross, and is 190 feet 
long, 177 broad, at the arms of the cross, 
and 127 feet high, from the floor to the top of 
the cross that surmounts the dome. The build- 
ing is well lighted by windows in the dome 
which are concealed from the view of persons 
below. At the west end rise two tall towers, 
crowned with Saracenic cupolas, resembling the 
», minarets of a Mohammedan mosque. This 
church, has the largest organ in the United 
States, having 6,000 pipes and 36 stops. It is 
ornamented with two excellent paintings — one, 
" The Descent from the Cross," was presented 
by Louis XVI. ; the other, " St. Louis burying 
his officers and soldiers slain before Tunis," was 
presented by Charles X., of France. The Uni- 
tarian Church, at the intersection of North 
Charles and Franklin streets, ranks next to the 
above in architectural beauty. This edifice is 
108 feet long and 78 wide. In front is a colon- 
nade, consisting of four Tuscan columns and two 
pilasters, which form the arcades. Above, ex- 
tending around the pediment, is a cornice deco- 
rated with emblematic figures and inscriptions. 
From the portico, the entrance is by bronze 
• doors, in imitation of the Vatican at Borne— 
three conducting to the body of the building, and 
two to the galleries. 

The Catholics, who are a numerous and 
•wealthy part of the community, have various 



other elegant ch^urch edifices, amongwhich may 
be mentioned that of St. Alphonsus, at the cor- 
ner of Saratoga and Parker streets, which has a 
spire of 200 feet ; and that of St. Vincent de Paul, 
in Front street. GraceChurch, Episcopal, cor- 
ner of Monument and Park streets, is a superb 
specimen of the Gothic, in red sandstone. Close 
by is another Episcopal church, also Gothic, 
built of gray sandstone. St. PauVs Church 
(Episcopal), at the corner of Charles and Sara- 
toga streets, is a pleasing example of the Nor- 
man style. 

The Unitarian Church, Charles and Franklin 
streets, has a dome of 55 feet in diameter, which 
is supported by four arches, each of 33 feet span. 

The First Presbyterian Church is situated at 
the corner of North and Fayette streets. The 
total number of churches in Baltimore is some 
125. 

The city is well provided, too, with education- 
al, benevolent, and literary institutions. The 
University of Maryland is at the intersection of 
Green and Lombard streets; the Medical De- 
partment was founded in the year 1807 ; the 
College of Loyola is at the corner of Madison and 
Calvert streets. The Athencbum, which is at the 
corner of Saratoga and St. Paul streets, is occu- 
pied by the Mercantile Library Association, the 
Baltimore Library, and the Maryland Hist. So- 
ciety. It is in the gallery of the Historical So- 
ciety that the annual exhibitions of pictures are 
held. The St. Mary's College, a Roman Catholic 
theological institution, is at the corner of Frank- 
lin and Green streets. M^Kim^s Free School v/aa 
founded by the liberality of the late Isaac 
M'lvim. The Maryland Hospital for the Insane 
occupies an eminence in the eastern part of the 
city. Mount Hope Hospital, conducted by the 
Sisters of Charity, is in Madison street. Near 
the University, in Lombard street, is the Balti- 
more Infirmary. It is controlled by the regents 
of the University. In the western part of the 
city is the Aged Widows' Home, a new and' ele- 
gant edifice. There are also two Orphan Asy- 
lums, a House of Refuge, and Almshouses. 

Theatres. The Holiday street is in Holiday 
near Fayette street ; the Front street theatre and 
circus are in Old Town, Front street, near Jay ; 
the Museutn is at the corner of Baltimore and 
Calvert streets. Like "Barnum's" in New 
York, it serves to gratify the juvenile dramatic 
taste ; Carroll Hall is at the corner of Baltimore 
and Calvert streets. 

Green Mount Cemetery is a charming 
rural spot, about a mile and a half from Battle 
Monument ; entrance at the junction of Belvi- 
dore street and York Avenue. 

Druid. Hill Park is a noble plesaunce of 
550 acres, lately converted from private to pub- 




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138 



MARYLAND. 



lie Tise. It abounds in venerable trees and 
beautiful shrubbery. 

North. Point, at the mouth of the Patapsco, 
■was the scene of a memorable battle, September 
32th, 1814, between the Americans, under Gen- 
eral Striker, and the British, under General 
Eoss, in which the former were defeated, and 
the latter lost three commanders. On the fol- 
lowing day, September 13th, Fort McHenry was 
bombarded for twenty-four hours, by sixteen 
ships and a land force of 1,200 men. The as- 
Bailants were repulsed, and the fortress left in 
tho possession of its defenders. 

This engagement at North Point and Fort Mc- 
Henry is duly celebrated in Baltimore on each 
recurring anniversary, and the Battle Monument 
was erected in commemoration thereof. 

EHicott's Mills, 15 miles from Baltimore, 
on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, is an ex- 
ceedingly picturesque little place, in a bold, 
rocky passage of the Patapsco. (See Baltimore 
and Ohio Railway.) 

Harper's Ferry, Va., and its wohderful 
scenery, may easily be reached, in a few hours 
by railway from Baltimore. 

The Thomas Viaduct, a magniflcent 
granite structure, 360 feet long, 65 feet high, 
with many arches, is nine miles from the city, 
on the railway to "Washington, where it branches 
off from the Baltimore and Ohio road. 

Annapolis. — Hotels : — Mrs. Green and 
Waitoii's. 

Annapolis, tho capital of Maryland, is a place 
of the greatest interest, from its antiquitj-, and 
its many historical associations. It is reached 
from Baltimore by the raUway from Washington 
City as far as Annapolis Junction, and thence 21 
miles by the Annapolis and Elk Ridge Branch. 
The city is upon the Severn River, two miles 
from tho Chesapeake Bay. The State House is 
an interesting edilice. Hero is the seat of St. 
Johifs College, foundedin 17S4 by an endowment 
from the State and by the munificence of indi- 
vidual citizens. At Annapolis, also, is located 
the United States Naval Academy, established 
in 1845. Annapolis was founded in 1649. It was 
first called Providence, next Anne Arundel 
Town, and lastly, when it received a city charter 
in 1708, Annapolis, in honor of Queen AJme. 

Many important events occurred in Annapolis 
during the period of tho Revolution ; and here, 
at the close of the conflict, occurred the memor- 
able scene of Washington's resignation of his 
commission. A fine picture of this incident, by 
Edwin AVhite, has been recently placed in the 
chamber where it occurred. 

Frederick.— Hotels :— City Eotel. 



Frederick, ono of the largest towns of Maryland, 
after Baltimore, is reached from that city by the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 59 miles on the 
main trunk of that route to Monocacy , and thence 
three miles by a branch road. Frederick, with 
some 8,000 inhabitants, is the third city in tho 
State, in population, and in wealth and com- 
mercial importance ranks as the second. Some 
popular Catholic educational establishments are 
located here. 

Hagrerstown. — Hotels : — Washington 

House. 

Hagerstown, with a population of about 4,000, 
is a prosperous place, 26 mUes north-west of 
Frederick, from which it may be easily reached 
by stage. The Cumberland Valley Railway, at 
present in operation from Harrisburg, Pa., to 
Chambcrsburg, is to be extended to this point ; 
also the Westminster branch of the route from 
Baltimore to Harrisburg, now terminating at 
Westminster. 

Cumberland.— Hotels •.—St. Nicholas Ho- 
tel. 

Cumberland is on the Potomac River, tho 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the line of the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 179 miles from 
Baltimore City. This is one of the largest and 
most prosperous towns in Maryland. It is in the 
mountain region of the narrow strip which 
forms the western part of the State. For an ac- 
count of the landscape attractions hereabouts, 
and of other places and objects of interest in 
Maiyland, see description of the Baltimore and 
Ohio RaUway. 



THE CHESAPEAKE BAT, 

The Chesapeake is the great highway from 
Baltimore to the sea. It is the largest bay in the 
United States, its length being about 200 miles, 
with a breadth varying from four to forty miles. 
Its depth permits the passage of the largest 
ships, nearly to tho mouth of the Susquehanna, 
at the upper extremity. Its shores are profusely 
indented with amis or estuaries of the oddest 
shapes, and with the mouths of tributary rivers 
and creeks. 

The Eastern Shore of Maryland and 
of Virginia. — The waters of the Chesapeake 
cut oft' a large portion of Maryland, and lower 
down a little slice of Virginia on the east, known 
as the Eastern shore of Maryland and of Vir- 
ginia. These districts, in the aside position 
which they thus occupy out of the great current 
of the national life, invite the traveller by their 
unique specialities of social habit and character. 
As railway enterprise, city-lot mania, and other 



/ 



MARYLAND. 



139 



"general orders" of the day, by which the 
thought and manner of the country is dragooned 
into universal uniform, and hurried along at 
forced ni:irch, have not yet entered these by- 
places ; there may still be found in them, intact, 
the feeling, opinion, and life of the "Old Do- 
minion " of a century ago— genuine " first fami- 
lies," with awful jiedigrees, hung up in the 
weather-stained halls of antediluvian homes — 
manorial homes, with big doors ever open, and 
surrounded with lordly acres, and attended by 
retinues of hereditary dependents, which the 
slave population maintains. Here is yet pre- 
served the old exploded idea, that the present 
hour, as well as the future, is worth the caring 
for, and life is considered a thing to be enjoyed, 
not in anticipation alone, but as it passes, day by 
day. 

Let the care-worn and wearied slip into one of 
the unnoticed way-steamers of the Great Bay — 
let him land lazily at ancient Accomac, or there- 
abouts, and forget a little while the wrinkling 
perplexities of cabinets and commerce, in the 
quiet pleasures of simple domestic life within 
doors, and the genial recreations to which he will 
be bidden without. 

Wild Fowl of tlie Chesapeake.— These 
waters, with their tributar}^ streams, are the 
most famous resort in the United States for 
every species of aquatic game. Birds of all 
feathers are drawn hither in marvellous num- 
bers by the abundance of food found on the 
great flats or shoals along the shores and upon 
the river inlets. 

" Above, aroutia, in numerous flocts are seen, 
Long lines of ducks o'er this tiieir fav'rite scene." 

" There is," says Dr. Lewis, in his American 
Sportsman, " no place in our wide extent of 
country, where wild-fowl shooting is followed 
with so much ardor as on the Chesapeake Bay 
and its tributaries, not only by those who make 
a comfortable living from the business, but also 
by gentlemen, who resort to these waters from 
all parts of the adjoining States to participate in 
the enjoyments of this far-famed ducking ground. 
All species of wild-fowl come here in numbers 
beyond credence, and it is really necessary for a 
stranger to visit the region, if he wishes to form 
a just idea of the wonderful multitudes and num- 
berless varieties of ducks that darken these 
waters, and hover in interminable flocks over 
these famed feeding-grounds. It is not, however, 
the variety or extraordinary numbers of ducks 
on the Chesapeake that particularly attracts the 
steps of so many shooters to these parts, as there 
are other rivers and streams equally accessible 
where wild-fowl also abound. But the great 
magnet that makes the shores the centre of 



attraction, is the presence of the far-famed Can- 
vass-Back, that here alone acquires its peculiar 
delicacy of flavor, while feeding upon the shores 
and flats of these waters. It is in quest of these 
noble ducks that so many repair annually to the 
waters of the Chesapeake and its numerous 
tributaries, regardless of the myriads of other 
ducks that are seen around on every side. The 
shooter taxes all his energies for the destruction 
of this one species alone, regarding all others 
with contempt, as hardly worthy of powder and 
shot." 

" The canvass-backs," says Dr. Sharpless of 
Philadelphia, in a paper contributed to Audu- 
bon's Birds of America, "pass up and down the 
bay, from river to river, in their morning and 
evening flights, giving, at certain localities, great 
opportunities for destruction. They pursue, 
even in their short passages, very much the 
order of their migratory movements, flying in a 
line or baseless triangle ; and when the wind 
blows on the points which m.ay lie 'in their 
course, the sportsman has great chance of suc- 
cess. These points or courses of the ducks are 
materially affected by the winds ; for they avoid, 
if ppssible, an approach to the shore ; but when 
a strong breeze sets them on to these projections 
of the land, they are compelled to pass within 
shot, and often over the land itself. 

"In the Susquehanna and Elk rivers there 
are few of these points for shooting, and there 
success depends on approaching them while on 
their feeding-grounds. After leaving the east- 
ern point at the mouth of the Susquehanna and 
Turkey Point, the western side of the Elk River, 
which are both moderately good for flying shoot- 
ing, the flrst place of much celebrity is the Nar- 
rows, between Spesutic Island and the western 
shore. These Narrows are about three miles in. 
length, and from, three to five hundred yards in 
breadth. 

" By the middle of November, the canvass- 
backs, in particular, begin to feed in this pas- 
sage, and the entrance and outlet, as well as 
many intermediate spots, become verj' successful 
stations. A few miles down the western shore 
is Taylor's Island, which is situated at the 
mouth of the Rumney and Abbey Island at the 
mouth of Bush River, which are both celebrated 
for ducks, as well as for swans and geese. These 
are the most northerly points where large fowl 
are met with, and projecting out between deep 
coves, where immense numbers of these birds 
feed, they possess great advantages. The south 
point of Bush River, Legoe's Point, and Rob- 
bin's and Pickett's Points, near Gunpowder 
River, are fruitful localities. Immediately at 
the mouth of this river is situated Carroll's Is- 
land, which has long been known aa a great 



140 



MAEYLAND. 



Bliooting ground, and is in the rentage of a com- 
pany at a high rate. Maxwell's Point, as well as 
Bome others up other rivers, and even further 
down the bay, are good places, but less celebrated 
than those mentioned. Mo=t of these places are 
let out as shootlijg-grouuds for comjauies and 
individuals, and are esteemed so valuable that 
intruders are severely treated." 

A newspaper correspondent of the past -winter, 
in speaking of the commercial value of the aquat- 
ic game of the Chesapeake, says that at Norfolk 
(which is the great depot of the trade, from 
whence all the country, far and wide, is furnish- 
ed), he saw at one house no less than thirty-one 
barrels, the product of one week's shooting at 
one spot alone, on Long Island, Back Bay. 

Dangers of the Sport.—" Notwithstand- 
the apparent facilities that are offered of success, 
the amusement of duck-shooting," says Dr. 
Sharpless, heretofore quoted, " is probably one 
of the most exposing to cold and wet ; and those 
•who undertake its enjoyment without a courage 
'screwed to the sticking-point,' ■will soon dis- 
cover that ' to one good a tliousand ills oppose.' 
It is, indeed, no parlor sport ; for, after creeping 
through mud and mire, often for hundreds of 
yards, to be at last disappointed, and stand ex- 
posed on points to the ' pelting rain ormore than 
freezing cold,' for hours, without even the prom- 
ise of a shot — would try the patience of even 
Franklin's ' glorious nibbler.' It is, however, 
replete with excitement and charm. To one 
■who can enter on the pleasure with a sj'stem 
formed for polar cold, and a spirit to endure the 
■weary toil of many a stormy day, it will yield a 
harvest of health and delight that the roamcr of 
the woods can rarely enjoy." 

Voyag-e down the Chesapeake.— From 
B;>llimore to Norl'olk, Virginia, at the lower ex- 
tremity of the ChesaiJeake, is a pleasant journey. 
Good steamers make it daily. It is a charming 
route, also, to Richmond, turning at or near Nor- 
folk, into the mouth of the J.ames River, and 
following the many devious miles of those ■wind- 
ing and picturesque waters. 

The points of chief interest seen in the passage 
of the Bay, arc the embouchure of the Fatapsco 
River and the battle-ground of North Point, near 
Baltimore, and referred to in our mention of 
that city. The Bodkin, three miles distant ; the 
harbor of Anapolis, 15 miles still below ; and, in 
the distance, the dome of the venerable capitol 
in which ""Washington, the great and good, set 
the seal to his sincerity, and finished the edifice 
of his glor}', by voluntarily surrendering his con- 
quering sword to the civil authorit}' of his coun- 
try." At the lower end of the bay are the fa- 
mous fortiflcationsof Old Point Comfort and the 
Eip Raps, protecting the entrance to Hampton 



Roads and James River. See chapter on Vir- 
ginia for Norfolk and the- James River. 



BALTIMORE AND OHIO R. R. 

In extent, commercial importance, and picto- 
rial attraction, this great route is one of the most 
important and interesting in America. It imites 
the city of Baltimore with the waters and valley 
of the Ohio, at Wheeling, 397 miles away, mak- 
ing one of the pleasantest and speediest of the 
great highways from the Atlantic to the Missis- 
sippi States. Its whole course Is through a re- 
gion of the highest picturesque variety and beau- 
ty, and it is itself a work of the highest artistic 
achievement in the continual and extraordinary 
display of skill which the singular difficulties of 
the way have called forth. It claims, too, espe- 
cial consideration, and reflects the greatest honor 
upon the State of Maryland and its beautiful me- 
tropolis of Baltimore — as the first railway in 
America 'which -was built by an incorporated 
company, and with the assistance of the public 
purse. 

Tlie corner-stone of the road was laid at the 
very early period in the history of railways of 
July 4, 1S28, and on the 30th of August, 1830, the 
first section was opened by steam-power, 14 
miles, from Baltimore to EUicott's Mills. The 
trial of the first engine was made on the 25th of 
August of that year. On the 1st of June, 1853, 
the entire route, of nearly 400 miles, was com- 
pleted, and on the 10th of January, a formal 
opening of the road was made by a through ex- 
cursion, with great public fetes and rejoicings. 

The following picturesque description of the 
journey to the "West by this noble highway, is 
from the pen of "VMlliam Prescott Smith, Esq., 
of Baltimore. Its graphic interest will easily ex- 
cuse its length. 

Leaving the city, we cross the 

Carrollton Viaduct, a fine bridge of dress' 
ed granite, ■with an arch of 80 feet span, over 
Gwynn's Falls ; after which, the road soon 
reaches the long .and deep excavation under the 
"Washington Turnpike, which is carried over the 
railroad by the Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile 
farther the "deep cut" is encountered, famous 
for its difficulties in the early history of the road. 
It is 76 feet in extreme depth, and nearly half a 
mile in length. Beyond this, the road crosses 
the deep ravine of Robert's Run, and, skirting 
the ore banks of the old Baltimore Iron Com- 
panj', now covered by a dense forest of cedar 
trees, comes to the long and deep embankment 
over the vaUey of Gadsby's run, and the heavy 
cut through Vinegar Hill immediately follow- 
ing it. 



MARYLAND. 



141 



The Relay House, oight milea from the 
inner station, is then reached, where, as the 
name imports, there was a change of horses dur- 
ing the period in which those animals fm'nished 
the motive laower of the road. 

At this point the open country of sand and 
clay ends, and the region of rock begins at tlie 
entrance to the gorge of the Patapsco River. In 
entering this defile, you have a fine view of The 
Thomas Viaduct (named after the first Pres- 
ident of the Company), a noble granite structure 
of eight elliptic arches, each of about sixty chord, 
spanning the stream at a height of sixty-six feet 
above the bed, and of a total length of some seven 
hundred feet. This bridge belongs to the "Wash- 
ington Branch Road, which departs from the 
main line at this place. The pretty village of 
Elkridge Landing la in sight, and upon the sur- 
rounding lieights are seen a number of pleasant 
country seats. 

The road now pursues its devious course up 
the river, passing the Avalon Iron Works, a 
miie beyond the Relay House, and coming, in a 
couple of miles farther, to the Patterson Via- 
dtict, a fine granite bridge of two arches of 
fifty-five, and two of twenty feet span. This 
bridge crosses the river at the Ilchester Mill, sit- 
uated at a very rugged part of the ravine. The 
Thistle Cotton Factory appears immediately be- 
yond, and soon after Gray's Cotton Factory, and 
then the well-known and flourishing town of 
Ellicott's IVElIls, fourteen miles from Balti- 
more, covering the bottom and slopes of the 
steep hills with dwellings, and their tops with 
churches and other public edifices. The Freder- 
ick Turnpike road passes through the town here, 
and is crossed by the railroad upon the Oliver 
Viaduct, a handsome stone bridge of three 
arches of twenty feet span. Just, beyond this 
bridge is the Tarpcian Rock, a bold insulated 
mass of granite, between which and the body of 
the cliff' the railroad edges its way. 

The road soon after comes in sight of the 
Elysville Factory buildings, where it crosses the 
river upon a new xdaduct of three iron spans, 
each of one hundred and ten feet, and almost 
immediately recrosses it upon one of three spans, 
each of one hundred feet in width. From thence 
it follows the various windings of the stream to 
the Forks, twenty-five miles from Baltimore. 
Passing the Marriottsville limestone quarries, 
the road crosses the Patapsco by an iron bridge 
fifty feet span, and dashes through a sharp spur 
of the hill by a tunnel four hundred feet long in 
mica slate rook. After passing one or two rocky 
hills at Hood's Mill, it leaves the granite region 
and enters upon the gentle slopes of the slate 
hills, among which the river meanders until we 
reach the foot of Parr's iRidg^e, dividing the 



waters of the Patapsco from those of the Poto- 
mac. 

From the summit of the ridge at the Mount 
Airy Station, forty-four miles from Baltimore, is 
a noble view westward across the Fredericktowa 
Valley, and as far as the Catootin Mountain, 
some fifteen miles distant. The road thence de- 
scends the valley of Bush Creek, a stream of 
moderate curves and gentle slopes, with a few 
exceptions, where it breaks tlirough some r-anges 
of trap rocks, which Interpose themselves among 
the softer shales. The Monrovia and Ijamsville 
Stations, are papsed at Bush Creek. The slates 
terminate at the Monocacy River, and the lime- 
stone of the Fredericktown Valley commences. 
That river is crossed by a bridge of three timber 
sp.ans one hundred and ten feet each, and ele- 
vated about forty feet above its bed. At this 
point, fifty-seven miles from Baltimore, tho 
Frederick Branch, of three miles in length, 
leaves the Main Road and terminates at the city 
of that name, the centre of one of the most fer- 
tile, populous, and wealthy sections of Mary- 
land. 

From the Monocacy to the Point of Rocks, tho 
road having escaped from the narrow winding 
valleys to which it has thus far been confined, 
bounds away over the beautiful champaign 
country lying between that river and the Catoc- 
tin Mountain. 

The Point of Hocks is formed by the bold 
profile of the Catoctin Mountain, against the base 
of which the Potomac River runs on the Mary- 
land side, the mountain towering up on tha 
opposite, Virginia, shore, forming the other bar- 
rier of the pass. The railroad turns the pro- 
montory by an abrupt curve, and is partly cut 
out of the rocky precipice on the right, and 
partly supported on the inner side of the canal 
on the left by a stone wall of considerable length. 
Two miles furthei;, another cliff occurs, accom- 
panied by more excavation and walling. From^ 
hence the ground becomes comparatively smooth, 
and the railroad, leaving the immediate margin 
of the river to the canal, runs along the base of 
the gently sloping hills, passing the villages of 
Berlin and Knoxville, and reaching the "Wever- 
ton Factories, in the pass of the South Moun- 
tain. 

From this point to Harper's Ferry, the 
road lies along the foot of a precipice for tha 
greater part of the distance of three miles, the 
last of which is immediately under the lofty clifls 
of Elk Mountain, forming thS north side of this 
noted pass. The Shenandoah Kiver enters 
the Potomac immediately below the bridge over 
the latter, and their united currents rush rapidly 
over the broad ledges of rock which stretch 
across their bed. The length of the bridge is 



142 



MAETLAJJD. 



atout nine hundred feet, and at its -woBtcrn end 
it di%'ides into two, tlie left-hand hranch connect- 
ing with the' Winchester and Potomac Railroad, 
which passes directly up the Shenandoah, and 
the right hand carrying the Main Koad, hy a 
strong curve in that direciion, uj) the Potomac. 
The bridge consists of six arches of one hundred 
and thirty, and one arch of ahout seventy-five 
feet span, over the river, and an arch of ahout 
one hundred feet span over the canal ; all of 
which are of timber and iron, and covered in, 
except the western arch connected with the 
Winchester and Potomac Railroad, which is 
entii-ely of iron, excepting the floor. This via- 
duct is not so remarkable for its length as for its 
peculiar structure, the two ends of it being 
curved in opposite directions, and. bifurcated at 
the western extremity. Harper's Ferry and all 
its fine points of scenery are too well known to 
need description liere. The precipitous moun- 
tains which rise from the water's edge leave 
little level ground on the river margin, and aU 
of that is occupied by the United States Armory 
buildings. Hence the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
road has been obliged to build itself a road in the 
river bed for upwards of half a mile, along the 
outer boundary of the Government works, upon 
a trestle-work resting, on the side next the river, 
tipon an insulated wall of fnasonry, and upon the 
other side upon strong iron columns placed upon 
the retaining wall of the Armory grounds. After 
passing the uppermost building, the road runs 
along upon the outer bank of the canal which 
brings the water of the river to the works, and 
Boon crosses this canal by a stone and timber 
bridge one hundred and fifty feet span. Thence 
the road passes up the river on the inner side of 
the canal, and opposite the dam at its head, about 
one and three-quarters of a ifiile from the mouth 
of tlie Shenandoah, pierces a projecting rock by 
a tunnel or gallerj^ of eighty feet in length. 

The view down the river through this perfora- 
tion is singularly picturesque, and presents the 
pass through the moimtain at the confluence 
of the rivers in one of its most remarkable 
aspects. A short distance above the tunnel, 
where the river sweeps gradually round to the 
eastward in the broad smooth sheet of water 
created by the dam, the railroad leaves the Poto- 
mac and passes up the rapine of Elk Branch, 
which presents itself at this point in a favorable 
direction. This ravine, at first narrow and ser- 
pentine, becomes wider and more direct, until it 
almost loses itselfin the rolling table land which 
characterizes the " Valley of Virginia." The 
head of Elk Branch is reached in about nine 
miles, and thence the line descends gradually 
over an undulating champaign country, to the 
crossing of the " Opeq.ua" Creek, which it passes 



by a stone and timber viaduct of one hundred 
and fifty feet span and forty feet above the water 
surface. Beyond the crossing the road enters the 
open valley of Tuscarora Creek, which it crosses 
twice and pursues to the town of Martinsburg, 
eighteen miles from Harper's Ferry. At Mar- 
tinsburg the Tuscarora is ag.ain bridged twice, 
the crossing east of the town being made upon a 
viaduct of ten spans of forty-four feet each, of 
timber and iron, supported by two abutments 
and eighteen stone columns in the Doric style, 
and which have a very agreeable architectural 
effect. The Company have erected here large 
engine-houses and work-shops, and have made it 
one of their principal stations for the shelter and 
repair of their machinery. 

Westward from Martinsburg the route for 
eight miles continues its course over the open 
country, alternately ascending and descending, 
untU it strikes the foot of the North Mountain, 
and crossing it by a long excavation, sixty-three 
feet deep, in slate rock, through a depression 
therein, passes out of the Valley, having trav- 
ersed its entire breadth upon a line twenty-six 
miles in length. The soil of the valley is lime- 
stone, with slight exceptions, and of great fer- 
tility. On leaving these rich and well-tiUed 
lands, we enter a poor and thinly-settled dis- 
trict, covered chiefly with a forest in which 
stunted pine prevails. The route encounters a 
heavy excavation and embankment for four or 
five miles from the North Mountain, and crosses 
Back Creek upon a stone viaduct of a single arch 
of eighty feet span and fifty-four feet above the 
stream. The view across, and of the Potomac 
Valley, is magnificent as you approach tlie 
bridge, and extends as far as the distant moun- 
tain range of Sideling Hill, 25 miles to the west. 
The immediate margin of the river is reached at 
a point opposite Fort Frederick on the Maryland 
side, au ancient stronghold, erected a hundred 
years ago, and still in pretty good preservation. 

From this point, thirty miles from Harper's 
Ferrj^, the route follows the Virginia shore of the 
river upon bottom lands, interrupted onlj' by the 
rocky bluffs opposite Licking Creek, for tea 
miles to Hancock. The onlj' considerable stream 
crossed in this distance is Sleepy Creek, which 
is passed by a viaduct of two spans of one hun- 
dred and ten feet each. 

The route from Hancock to Cumberland pur- 
sues the margin of the Potomac River, with four 
exceptions. The first occurs at Doe Gulley, 
eighteen miles above Hancock, where, by a tun- 
nel of l,200feetinlength, abend of the riveris cut 
off", and a distance of nearly four miles saved. 
The second is at the Paw i?aw Ridge, where a 
distance of nearly two miles is saved by a tunnel 
of 250 feet in length. Tha third and fourth are 



MAETLAND. 



143 



within sis miles of CumTjerland, •where two 
heuda are cut across by the route with a consid- 
erable lessening of distance. 

In advancing westward from Hancock, the line 
passes along the western base of Warm Spring 
Eidge, approaching within a couple of miles of 
the Berkeley Springs, which are at the 
eastern foot of that ridge. It then sweeps 
around the termination of the Cacapon Moun- 
tain, opposite the remarkable and insulated emi- 
nence called the "Round Top." Thence the road 
proceeds to the crossing of the Great Cacapon 
llive^ nine and a half miles above Hancock, 
which is crossed by a bridge about 300 feet in 
length. Within the next mile it passes dam No. 
6 of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and soon 
after, it enters the gap of Sideling Hill. 

The next point of interest reached is the 
Tunnel at Doe Giilley. The approaches 
to this formidable work are very imposing, as 
for several miles above and below the tunnel, 
they cause the road to occupy a high level on the 
slopes of the river hills, and thus afford an exten- 
sive view of the grand mountain scenery around. 

The Paw Paw Ridge Tunnel is next reached, 
thirty miles from Hancock, and twenty-five miles 
below Cumberland. This tunnel is through a 
soft slate rock, and is curved horizontally with a 
radius of 750 feet. 

The viaduct over Little Cacapon Creek is 143 
feet long. About five and a half miles further 
on, the south branch of the Potomac is crossed 
on a bridge 400 feet long. 

Some two miles above is a fine straight line, 
over the widely expanded ilats opposite the 
ancient village of Old Town, in Marj'land. 
These are the finest bottom lands on the river, 
and from the upper end of them is obtained the 
first view of the Knobly Mountain, that 
remarkable range which lies in a line with the 
town of Cumberland, and is so singularly diver- 
sified by a profile which makes it appear like a 
succession of artificial mounds. Dan's Mountain 
towers over it, forming a fine back-ground to the 
view. Soon after, the route passes the high clift's 
known by the name of Kelly's Rocks, where 
there has been very heavy excavation. 

Patterson's Creek, eight miles from Cum- 
berland, is next reached. Immediately below this 
stream is a lofty mural precipice of limestone and 
sandstone rook, singularly perfoi-ated in some of 
the ledges by openings which look like Gothic 
loopholes. The valley of this creek is very straight 
and bordered by beautiful flats. The viaduct 
over the stream is 150 feet long. Less than two 
miles above, and six miles from Cumberland, 
the north branch of the Potomac is crossed by a 
viaduct 700 feet long, and rising in a succession 
of steps— embracing also a crossing of the Chesa- 



peake and Ohio Canal. This extensive bridge 
carries usoutof Virginia, and lands us once more 
into Old Maryland which we left at Harper's 
Ferry, and kept out of for a distance of ninety- 
one miles. 

The route thence to Cumberland is across two 
bends of the river, between which the stream 
of Evett's Creek is crossed by a viaduct of 100 
feet span. 

The entrance to the town of Cumberland is 
beautiful, and displays the noble amphitheatre 
in which it lies to great advantage, the gap of 
Will's Mountain, westward of the town, being a 
justly prominent feature of the view. 

The brick and stone viaduct over Will's Creek, 
at Cumberland, is entitled to particular notice. 
It consists of 14 elliptical arches of 50 feet span 
and 13 feet rise, and is a well built and handsome 
structure. 

From Cumberland to Piedmont, 28 miles, the 
scenery is remarkably picturesque, perhaps 
more so than upon any other section of the road 
of similar leng.th. For the first 22- miles, to the 
mouth of New Ci'eek, the Knobly Mountain 
bounds the valley of the North Branch of the 
Potomac on the left, and Will's and Dan's Moun- 
tains on the right ; thence to Piedmont, the river 
lies in the ga^D which it has cut through the 
latter mountain. 

The following points may be specially noticed : 

The general direction of the road is south-west, 
for 22 miles, to the mouth of New Creek. 

The clitFs, which occur at intervals during the 
first 10 miles. 

The wide bottom lands, extending for the next 
four miles, with some remarkably bold and 
beautiful mountain peaks in view. 

The high rocky bluff's along Fort Hill, and the 
grand mural precipice opposite to them, on the 
Virginia shore, immediately below the " Black 
Oak Bottom," a celebrated farm embracing 500 
acres in a single plain, between mountains of 
great height. 

The Chimney Hole Rock, at the ter- 
mination of Fort Hill, a singular crag, through 
the base of which the Railroad Company have 
driven a tunnel imder the road to answer the 
purpose of a bridge for several streams entering 
the river at that point. 

The crossing of the Potomac, from the Marj''- 
land to the Virginia shore, 21 miles from Cum- 
berland, where the railroad, after passing through 
a long and deep excavation, spans the river by a 
bridge of timber and iron, on stone abutments 
and a pier. The view at this point, both up and 
down the river, is very fine. The bridge is a 
noble Btructure, roofed and weather-boarded. 
It has two spans of 160 feet each, making the 
total length 320 feet. 



144 



MARYLAND. 



The Bull's Head Rock, a mile teyond 
this point ; tlie railroad, having cut through the 
neck, has left the head standing, a bold block of 
rock breasting the river, which dashes hard 
against it. Immediately on the other side of the 
cut made by the raih-oad through the neck, rises 
a conical hill of great height. The mouth of 
New Creek, where there is a beautiful plain of 
a mile or more in length, and opposite to which 
is the- long promontory of Pine Hill, terminating 
In Queen's Cliff, on the Maryland side of the 
river. The profile and pass of Dan's Mountain 
is seen in bold relief to the north-west, to which 
direction the road now changes its course. The 
road skirts the foot of Thunder Hill, and winds 
along the river margin, bounded by Dan's Moun- 
tain and its steep spurs, for seven miles, up to 
Piedmont. The current of the river is much 
more rapid here than below, and islands are 
more frequent. 

Piedmont, a flat of limited extent, opposite 
the small but ancient village of Westeruport, at 
the mouth of George's Creek. 

"West of Piedmont the road ascends 17 'miles 
by a grade, of which 11 miles is at the rate of 
116 feet per mile, to the Altamont Summit. The 
points worthy of notice in this distance are — 

The stone viaduct of three arches, of 66 feet 
epan, over the Potomac River, whore the road 
recrosses into Maryland. It is a substantial and 
handsome structure, and elevated 50 feet above 
the water. The road then winds, for five miles, 
up the valley of Savage River, passing the 
Everett Tunnell, of 300 feet in length, and 32 
miles from Cumberland. This tunnel is secured 
by a brick arch. The winding of the road up 
the mountain side, along Savage River, gra- 
dually increases its elevation until it attains a 
height of 200 feet above the water, and placing 
us far above the tops of the trees growing in the 
valley, or rather deep ravine, on our right, pre- 
sents a grand view. 

The mouth of Crab-Tree Creek, where the 
road turns the flank of the Great Back-Bone 
Mountain— from this point, the view up Savage 
River to the north and Crab-Tree Creek to the 
Bouth-west, is magnificent ; the latter presenting 
a vista of several miles up a deep gorge gradually 
growing narrower ; the former a bird's-eye view 
of a deep, winding trough bounded by mountain 
ridges of great elevation. 

Three miles up Crab-Tree Creek is an excava- 
tion lOS feet deep, through a rocky spur of the 
mountain. 

Altamont, the culminating point of the line, 
at a height of 2,626 feet above tide water at Bal- 
timore—the dividing ridge between the Potomac 
and Ohio waters — is passed by a long open cut 
of upwards of SO feet in depth. The Great Back- 



Bone Mountain, now passed, towers np on the 
left hand, and is seen at every opening in that 
direction. 

Tlie Grlades, which reach from Altamont to 
Cranberry Summit, 19 miles, are beautiful na- 
tural meadows, lying along the upper waters of 
the Youghiogheny River, and its numerous tri- 
butaries, divided by ridges generally of moderate 
elevation and gentle slope, with fine ranges of 
mountains in the back-ground. 

The crossing of the great Yotigliiog'h.eny 
River is by a viaduct of timber and iron— a 
single arch of 180 feet span resting on stone 
abutments. The site of this fine structure is 
■tt-ild ; the river running here in a woody gorge. 

The crossing of the Maryland and Virginia 
boundary line is 60 miles from Cumberland. 

The Falls of Snowy Creek, where the 
road, after skirting a beautiful glade, enters a 
savage-looking pass through a deep forest of 
hemlocks and laurel thickets, the stream dash- 
ing over large rocks and washing the side of the 
road but a few feet below its level. 

The descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre- 
sents a rapid succession of very heavy excava- 
tions and embankments, and two tunnels, viz., 
the McGuire Tunnel of 500, and the Rodemer 
Tunnel of 400 feet in length, secured by the most 
durable arches of stone and brick. There is also 
a stone and iron viaduct over Salt Lick Creek 50 
feet span and 50 feet high. The creek passes 
through a dense forest of fir trees in its approach 
to the river. 

Cheat River is a dark rapid mountain 
stream, whose waters are of a curious cofl'ee- 
colored hue, owing, it is said, to its rising in 
forests of laurel and black spruce on the highest 
mountain levels of that coimtiy. This stream is 
crossed bj' a viaduct consisting of two arches 180 
and 130 feet span, of timber and iron on stone 
abutments and pier. 

The ascent of the Cheat River Hill comes 
next. This is decidedly the most imposing sec- 
tion of the whole line — the difficulties encounter- , 
ed in the four miks west of the crossing of the ) 
river being quite appalling. The road, winding 
up the slope of Laurel Hill and its spurs, with 
the river on the right hand, first crosses the ra- 
vine of Kyer's Rim 76 feet deep, by a solid em- 
bankment ; then, after bold cutting, along a 
steep, rocky hill-side, it reaches Buckeye Hol- 
low, the depth of which is lOS feet below the 
road level, and 400 feet across at that level ; some 
more side cutting in rock ensues, ai;d the pas- . 
sage of two or three coves in the hill-side, when 
we come to Tray Run, and cross it 150 feet 
above its original bed b}' an iron trcstling 600 
feet long at the road level. Both these deep 
chasms have solid walls of masonry built acrosa 



MAETLAND. 



145 



them, the foundations of which are on the solid 
roolv, 120 and 180 feet respectively below the road 
height. They are crossed on elegant cast-iron 
viaducts. 

After p.assing these two tremendous clefts in 
the mountain side, the road winds along a pre- 
cipitous slope with heavy cutting, filling, and 
walling, to Buckhorn Branch, a wide and deep 
cove on tiie western flank of the mountain. 
This is crossed by a solid embankment and re- 
taining wall 90 feet high at its most elevated 
point. Some half-mile further, after more 
heavy cuts and fills, the ro.ad at length leaves the 
declivity of the river, which, where we see it for 
the last time, lies 500 feet below us, and turns 
westward through a low gap, which admits it by 
a moderate cutting, followed soon, however, by 
a deej) and long one through Cassidy's Sumlxiit 
Eidge to the table land of the country bordering 
Cheat River on the west. Hero, at 80 miles 
from Cumberland, we enter the great western 
coal field, having passed out of the Cumberland 
field at 35 miles from that place. The intei'- 
mediate space, although without coal, will be 
readily supplied from the adjacent coal basins. 

Descending somewhat from Cassidy's Ridge, 
and passing by a high embankment over the 
Brushy Fork of Pringle's Run, the line soon 
reaches the Kingwood Tunnel, of 4,100 feet in 
length, the longest finished tunnel in America. 

Leaving Kingwood Tunnel, the line for 5 miles 
descends along a steep hill-side to the flats of 
Raccoon Creek, at Newburgh. In this distance 
it lies high above the vallej^, and crosses a branch 
of it with an embankment 100 feet in elevation. 
There are two other heavy fills further on. Two 
miles west of the Kingwood Tunnel is Murray's 
Tunnel, 250 feet long, a regular and beautiful 
semi-circular arch cut out of a fine solid sand- 
stone rock, overlaying a vein of coal six feet 
thick, which is seen on the fioor of the tunnel. 

From Newburg, westward, the route pursues 
the valleys of Raccoon and Three Forks Creeks, 
which present no features of ditfioulty to the 
Grafton Station, 101 miles from Cumberland, at 
the Tygart's Valley River, where the railroad to 
Parkersburg diverges from that to Wheeling. 
The distance to these two places (which are 90 
miles apart on the Ohio River) is nearly equal, 
being 104 miles to the former, and 99 to the 
latter. 

Fetterman, a promising-looking village, two 
miles west of the last point, and 103-J- miles from 
Cumberland. Here the turnpike to Parkersburg 
and Marietta crosses the river. The route from 
Fetterman to Fairmont has but one very striking 
feature. The Tygart's Valley River, whose mar- 
gin it follows, is a beautiful and winding stream, 
of gentle current, except at the Falls, where the 



river descends, principally by three or four per- 
pendicular jjitches, some 70 feet in about a mile. 
A mile and a half above Fairmont the Tygart's 
Valley River and the "West Fork River unite to 
form the Monongahela — the first being the larger 
of the two confluents. 

A quarter of a mile below their junction, tho 
railroad crosses the Monongaliela, upon a 
viaduct 650 feet long and 39 feet above low water 
surface. The lofty and massive abutments of 
this bridge support an iron superstructure of 
three arches of 200 feet span each, and which 
formed the largest iron bridge in America. 

The road, a mile and a half below Fairmont, 
leaves the valley of the beautiful Monongahela, 
and ascends the winding and picturesque ravine 
of Buffalo Creek, a stream some twent3'-five 
miles in length. The creek is first crossed five 
miles west of Fairmont, and again at two points 
a short distance apart, and about nine miles fur- 
ther west. 

About eleven miles beyond Fairmont we pass 
the small hamlet of Farmington, and seven or 
eight miles further is the thriving village of 
" Mannington," at the mouth of Piles' Fork of 
Buffalo. There is a beautiful flat here on both 
sides of the stream, affording room for a town of 
some size, and surrounded by hills of a most 
agreeable aspect. Thence to the head of Piles' 
Fork, the road traverses at first a narrow and 
serpentine gorge, with five bridges at different 
points, after which it courses with more gentle 
curvatures along a wider and moderately wind- 
ing valley, with meadow land of one or two hun- 
dred yards broad on one or other margin. Nu- 
merous tributaries open out pretty vistas on 
either hand. This part of the valley, in ita 
summer dress, is singularly beautiful. After 
reaching its head at Glover's Gap, 28 miles be- 
yond Fairmont, the road passes the ridge by 
deep cuts, and a tunnel 350 feet long, of curious 
shape, forming a sort of Moorish arch in its roof. 
From this summit, (which divides the waters of 
the Monongahela from those of the Ohio,) tho 
line descends by Church's Fork of Fish Creek — 
a valley of the same general features with the 
one just passed on the eastern side of the ridge. 

The road now becomes winding, and in the 
next four miles we cross the creek on bridges 
eight times. We also pass Cole's Tunnel, 112 
feet, Eaton's Tunnel, 170 feet, and Marten's Tun- 
nel, 180 feet long — the first a low-browed opening, 
which looks as if it would knock off the smoke- 
pipe of the engine ; the next a regular arched 
roof, and the third a tall narrow slit in the rock, 
originally lined with timbers lofty enough to be 
taken for a church steeple. 

The Littleton Station is reached just beyond, 
and Board Tree Tunnel is soon at hand. 



146 



MAEYLAND. — DISTEICT OF COLTJMBIA. 



Leaving Board Tree Tunnel, the line descends 
along the hill-side of the K"orth Fork of Fish 
Creek, crossliig-ravines and spurs by deep fill- 
ings and cuttings, and reaching the level of the 
flats bordering the Creek at Bell's Mill ; eoou 
after which it crosses the creek and ascends 
Hart's Run and Four Mile Run to the Welling 
Tunnel, 50 miles west of Fairmont, and 28 from 
"Wheeling. This tunnel is 1,250 feet long, and 
pierces the ridge between Fish Creek and Grave 
Creek. It is through slate rock like the Board 
Tree Tunnel, and is substantially arched with 
brick and stone. 

Fi-om the Welling Tunnel the line pursTies the 
valley of Grave Creek 17 miles to its mouth at 
the Flats of Grave Creek on the Ohio River, 11 
miles below Wheeling. The first five miles of 
the ravine of Grave Creek is of gentle curvature 
and open aspect, like the others already men- 
tioned. Afterwards it becomes very sinuous, 
and the stream requires to be bridged eight 
times. There are also several deep cuts through 



sharp ridges in the bends of the creek, and one 
tunnel 400 feet long at Sheppard's, 19 miles from 
Wheeling. 

The approach to the bank of the Ohio Hiver, 
at the village of Moundsville, is very beautiful. 
The line emerging from the defile of Grave Creek, 
passes straight over the " flats" which border the 
river, and forming a vast rolling plain, in the mid- 
dle of which looms up the "great Indian mound," 
eighty feet high and two hundred feet broad at 
its base. There is also the separate village of 
Elizabethtown, half a mile from the river bank, 
the mound standing between two towns and 
looking down upon them both. The " flats" em- 
brace an area of some 4,000 acres, about three- 
fourths of which lie on the Virginia, and the 
remaining fourth on the Ohio side of the river. 

About three miles up the river from Mounds- 
ville, the "flatii" terminate, and the road passes 
for a mile along rocky narrows washed by the 
river, after which it runs over wide, rich, and 
beautiful bottom lands, all the way to Wheeling. 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 

The District of Columbia is a sui generis tract, neither State nor Territory, hut set apart, ^ro 
bono publico, as the seat of the Federal Government. It was ceded to the United States for this 
purpose by Maryland. It occupies an area of sixty square miles. Originally its measure was one 
hundred square miles, the additional forty coming from Virginia. This part of the cession, how- 
ever, was retroceded in the year 1846. It includes the city of Alexandria, a few miles below the 
metropolis, on the Potomac. The present cities of the District are Washington, the National 
Capital, and Georgetown, close by. Maryland lies upon all sides, except the southwest, where it 
is separated from Virginia by the Potomac River. 

The District of Columbia is governed directly by the Congress of the United States, and its 
inhabitants have no representation, and no voice in the Federal elections. 



Route from Baltimore to Washington City. 
The railway from Baltimore to Washington, 
40 miles, is over the Baltimore and Ohio route, 
to the Rolay House, nine miles, and thence by 
the Washington Branch Road, 31 miles. Imme- 
diately ujpon leaving the route of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Road, the traveller passes over the 
Thomas Viaduct, a grand structure across the 
valley of the Patuxent. The Branch route for 
Annapolis, the capital of Maryland, leaves the 
Washington road at the Annapolis Junction, 18 
miles. Passing Bladensburg, and approaching 
within a few miles of the city, the grand waUs 
and domes of the Capitol, upon its lofty terrace 
height, make a magnificent feature in the land- 
scape. The terminus of the road is near the foot 
of the Capitol Hill. 



Wash.ing'ton City. 

Hotels: — WillarcPs, Broicn's, and the Nation- 
al; all spacious first-class establishments. 

Washington City, the political capit.al of the 
United States, is in the District of Columbia, 
near the banks of the Potomac River. It is 40 
miles distant from Baltimore, 136 from Philadel- 
phia, and 226 from New York, with which 
cities, as weU as with all the chief towns of the 
Union, it is connected by railway. When the 
original plan of Washington shall be realized in 
its full growth to the proportions it was designed 
to reach — as may yet happen — it will be in its 
own right, and without the aid of its ofiicial po- 
sition, one of the great cities of the Union. It 
■would be diflQ.cult to invent a more magnificent 



DISTEICT Off OOLTJMBIA. 



147 



Bcliemo than that of tho founder of Washington, 
or to find a location more eligible for its success- 
ful execution. Its easy access from the sea gives 
it every facility for commercial greatness, aiid its 
varied topography almost compels picturesque 
efl'L'ct and beauty. 

The site was chosen by Washington himself, 
and it was he who laid the corner-stone of the 
Capitol. This was oa the ISth of September, 
1793, seven years before the scat of government 
was removed thither from Philadelphia. 

The scene from the lofty position of the dome 
of the Capitol, or from the high terrace upon 
which this magnificent edifice stands, is one of 
unrivalled beauty, and it gives the visitor at 
once and thoroughly, a clear idea of the natural 
advantages of the region, and of the character, 
extent, and possibilities of the city. Looking 
eastward, for the space of a mile or more, over a 
plain yet scarcely occupied, the eye falls upon 
the broad and beautiful waters of the Potomac, 
leading by Alexandria and the groves of Mount 
Vernon, to the sea. Turning westward, it over- 
looks the city as it at present exists, upon the 
great highway of Pennsylvania Avenue, to the 
edifices of the State and Treasury Departments 
and the President's House, the avenue dropping 
toward its centre, as a hammock might swing 
between the two elevated points. Around, on 
other rising grounds, the various public edifices 
are seen with fine elfect ; and, turning again to 
the left, the view takes in the loroad acres of the 
new national Park, in which are the many unique 
towers of the Smithsonian Institute, and the 
Boaringshaftof the Washington Monument; off", 
in the distance, across Bocky Creek, are the an- 
cient-looking walls and roofs of Georgetown. 

After a very hasty general peep at the city, the 
visitor will, of course, turn first to tho public ed- 
ifices, which form its especial attraction. 

The Capitol, in its magnitude and in its mag- 
nificence of marble and domes, and upon its bold 
terrace height, will have attracted his curious 
wonder miles distant, whichever way he may 
have approached. The corner-stone, as we have 
said, of this imposing structure was laid by 
Washington himself, Sept. 18, 1793. In 1814, it 
was burned by the British, together with the 
Library of Congress, the President's House, and 
other public works. In 1818 it was entirely re- 
paired, and in 1851 (July 4), President Fillmore 
laid the corner-stone of the new buildings, which 
make the edifice now more than twice its origin- 
al size.^ Its whole length is 751 feet, and the 
area covered is 3-J- acres. The surrounding 
grounds, which are beautifully cultivated and 
embellished by fountains and statuary, embrace 
from 25 to 30 acres. The Senate Chamber and 
the Hall of Representatives of the Congress of the 



United States, are in the wings of the Capitol, on 
either side of the central building. The grand 
rotunda contains eight large pictures, illustrating 
scenes in American hibtory, painted for the Gov- 
ernment by native artists. The edifice is also 
embellished, both within and without, by many 
other works of the pencil and of the chisel : chief 
among them is Greeuough's colossal marble 
statue of Washington, which stands on the broad 
lawn, before the eastern fapade. 

The Presidents Mansion, or the Wbite House, 
as it is popularly called, is 1^ miles west of tho 
Capitol, upon a high terrace, at the opposite ex- 
tremity of Pennsylvania Avenue. The lawns 
around, containing some twenty acres, drop 
gradually towards the Potomac River. This 
elegant but not imposing edifice is built of free- 
stone, painted white. It is two stories high, 170 
feet long, and 86 feet deep. On the north point, 
upon Pennsylvania Avenue, the building has a 
portico, with four Ionic columns, under which 
carriages pass. A circular colonnade of six 
Doric pillars adorns the Potomac front. In tho 
centre of the lawn, across the avenue, on the 
north, is Clark Mill's bronze equestrian statue 
of General Jaekson, erected in January, 1853. 
Near the President's Mansion, on the one side, 
are the very plain buildings of the Navy and the 
War Departments ; and, on the other side, are 
those of the State and the Treasury Depart- 
ments. 

The Treasury Department is a new and im- 
posing stone structure, 340 feet long and 170 
wide. Its total length, when completed, will be 
457 feet. The east front, on the bend in the 
avenue, (made by the intervention of the 
grounds occupied by the President's Mansion), is 
embellished by 42 Ionic columns. 

The General Post- Office is upon E street, mid- 
way between the President's House and the 
Capitol. It is built of white marble, and its 
grand dimensions give it an imposing air. 

The Patent Office (Department of the Inte- 
rior) is near the edifice of the General Post 
OfEice ; when completed it will cover an entire 
square, and will be one of the largest and most 
interesting of all the Government structures. 
Here the visitor may see the models of the 
countless machines which have grown out of the 
inventive Yankee brain, and also the cabinets of 
natural history collected by the exploring expe- 
ditions. Here, too, are preserved many most 
interesting relics of Washington and of Frank- 
lin, and the presents of foreign governments. 

The Smithsonian Institute is within the area 
of the New Park, west of the Capitol, and south 
of Pennsylvania Avenue. This noble institution 
was endowed by James Smithson, Esq., of Eng- 
land, " for the increase and diffusion of knowl- 



148 



DISTEICX OF COLUMBIA. 



edge among men." The edifice is constructed 
of red sandBtoue, in the Norman or Romanesque 
style. Its length is 450 feet ; its breadth, 140 ; 
and it has nine towers, from 75 to 150 feet high. 
It contains a lecture-room, capacious enough to 
hold 2,000 auditors ; a museum of natural his- 
tory, 200 feet in length; a superb laboratory ; a 
library room, large enough for 100,000 volumes ; 
a gallery for pictures and statuary, 120 feet m 
length. 

The Nalional Monument to Washington is also 
within the area of the New Park. The base is 
to be a circular temple, 250 in diameter, and 100 
feet high, upon -which there i^ to be a shaft of 70 
feet base, and 500 feet high ; the total elevation 
of the monument being GOO feet. The temple is 
to contain statues of Revolutionary heroes and 
relics of Washington. It is to be surrounded by 
a colonnade of thirty Doric pillars, with suitable 
entablature and balustrade. Each State con- 
tributes a block of native stone or other mate- 
rial, which is to be placed in the interior walls. 

The National Observatory is located upon the 
Potomac, and is under the supervision of Lieu- 
tenant Maury. 

The Navy Yard, on the Eastern Branch, about 
three-fourths of a mile south-east of the Capitol, 
has an area of 27 acres, enclosed by a substan- 
tial brick wall. Within this enclosure, besides 
houses for the otScers, are shops and ware- 
houses, two large ship-houses, and an armorj', 
which, like the rest of the establishment, is kept 
in the finest order. — The Navy Mag-azine is a 
large brick structure, situated in the south-east- 
ern section of a plot of 70 acres, the property of 
the United States, on the Eastern Branch. 

The Congressional or National Cemetery, is 
about a mile east of the Capitol, near the Ana- 
costa, or eastern branch. Its situation is high, 
and commands fine pictures of the surrounding 
country. 

The principal public buildings of the city (not 
national), are the City Hall in North D street, 
between Fourth and Fifth streets, ; the Colum- 
bia College, in the immediate vicinage of the 
city ; the Medical College, and some fifty church 
edifices. 

The residents of Washington number about 
61,000 ; but this estimate is greatly increased 
during the sittings of Congi'ess, by a very large 
floating population. 

THE VICINITY OF WASHINGTON. 
Georgetown. — Hotels :— 

Georgetown is so near as to be almost part and 
parcel of the Capital. It is at the head of navi- 
gation on the Potomac, on high and broken 



ground. Many elegant maneione, the residences 
of some of the foreign ministers among them, 
occupy the "Heights" of the city. Oak Hill 
Cemetery is a spot of much beauty. An impor- 
tant Catholic College, with both male and female 
schools, is located here. Population is perhaps 
nearly'9,000. 

The Great Falls of the Potomac a 
scene of remarkable interest, are 13 miles above 
Georgetown. The Little Falls are three miles 
away only. Washington is to be supplied with 
water by an aqueduct from these Falls. 

Alexandria, Va. — Hotels : — NewtorCs Ho- 
tel. 

Alesandi-ia, Va., is upon the banks of the Po- 
tomac, seven miles below the Capital. It was 
onco within the District of Columbia, but was 
retroceded to Virginia in 1846, with all the terri- 
tory of that State which had been before a por- 
tion of the national ground. The population of 
Alexandria is about 11,000. 

Bladensburgr, a small village in Maryland, 
on the eastern branch of the Potomac, 6 miles 
from the Capital, on the Baltimore and Wash- 
ington Railwaj', is famous as the Congressional 
duelling ground. 

Mount Vernon, sacred as the home and 
tomb of Washington, is upon the west bank of 
the Potomac, 15 miles below the Capital, and 
eight miles from Alexandria. 

The old tomb, which is now fast going to de- 
cajf, occupies a more pictureeque situation than 
the present one, being upon an elevation in full 
view of the river. The new tomb into which the 
remains were removed in 1830, and subsequently 
placed within a marble sarcophagus, stands in a 
more retired situation, a short distance from the 
house. It consists of a plain but solid structure 
of brick, with an iron gate at its entrance, 
through the bars of which may be seen two sar- 
cophagi of white marble, side by side, in which 
slumfcer in peaceful silence the '^ Father of his 
country" and his amiable consort. 

This sacred domain remained, since the death 
of Washington, in the possession of his descend- 
ants, until very lately, when it was purchased 
for the nation for the sum of $200,000, raised by 
subscriptions, under the auspices of a society of 
patriotic ladies, who bravely organized them- 
selves as the Ladies' Mount Vernon Association 
of the Union. Many thousand dollars of the 
fund came from the lectures and literary- labors 
of the Hon. Edward Everett. 

To reach Mount Vernon from Washington, 
take the steamer down the Potomac, via Alex- 
andria. Boat leaves tri-weekly, in the morning, 
returning to the city in the afternoon. Fare, $1. 



VIEOINIA. 149 



VIEGINIA. 

Virginia,* in the abundance and quality of licr political and romantic reminiscences and sug- 
gestions, is unquestionably the laureate of our great sisterhood of nations. She was born of the 
most gallant and creative spirit, and in the most daring and chivalrous days which the •world has 
ever known— the memorable and mighty age of Elizabeth — herself, perhaps, only the hard, ungiv- 
ing ilint, yet majestically striking the light of thought and action from all the dormant genius and 
power, which came within the range of her influence. Our queenly State grew up a worthy 
daughter of her great parentage ; and in all her history has evinced, as she still perpetuates, its 
noble spirit. Her whole story is replete with musings for the poet, and philosophy for the his- 
torian. "What a web of romance may yet be woven from the record of the trials and hair-breadth 
escapes of her infant life ; from the first days of the restless Raleigh, through all the bold exploits 
of the gallant Smith, the troublesome diplomacy of the wily Opecacanough, the dangerous jeal- 
ousy of Powhattan, the plots of the treacherous Bacon, to the thrilling drama of the gentle Indian 
princess. And again, in olden days — in the days of border strife, of bold struggle with the united 
strategy and cruelty of the French intruder, and the revengeful redskin, she gives us chronicles 
which, while scarcely yielding in dramatic interest to the incidents of earlier periods, rise higher 
in the force of moral teachings ; while yet again, onward and later, there opens to us the still more 
thrilling and more lofty story other mature life, in the proud deeds and grand results of her par- 
ticipation in our eventful Revolution. The be-all and the end-all of that achievement it is not our 
place now to ask. Much as the world has seen, and much more as it hopes, of mighty consequence, 
the stupendous effect is not yet felt, nor yet dreamed of, perhaps ; but, for what has come, and for 
what will come, to Virginia, belongs much of the glory — the glory of striking the first blow, by 
uniting the colonies in resistance to border encroachment ; while the last blow, thirty long, strug- 
gling years beyond, fell also from her gauntleted hand, when the conquered Cornwallis laid down 
his shamed sword on the plains of Yorktown. Virginia then led the sounding shout of freedom 
and empire, which has danced in glad echoes over the Alleghanies, skimmed the vast valleys of 
the Mississippi and the prairies of the Great "West, crossed the snow-clad peaks of the Kooky 
Mountains, and kissed the far-off floods of the Pacific— a shout which now, more than ever, fills 
the rejoicing air, and which must grow in grandeur and melody, -until it shall exalt and bless the 
heart of all the earth. 

Among the proudest boasts that Virginia may make, is the extraordinary number of great men 
which she has given to the nation. During half the lifetime of the Republic, its highest oflace has 
heen conferred upon her sons, who have, in turn, nobly reflected back upon the country the hon- 
ors they have received. Not only has she been the mother of many and the greatest of our Presi- 
dents, but she has reared leaders for our armies and navies, lawgivers for our Senates, judges for 
our tribunals, apostles for our pulpits, poets for our closets, and painters and sculptors for our 
highest and most enduring delight. Scanning the map of Middle Virginia, the eye is continually 
arrested by hallowed shrines — the birth-places, the homes, and the graves of those whom the 
world has most delighted to honor. Here we pause within the classic groves of Monticello, and 
look abroad upon the scenes amidst which Jefferson so profoundly studied and taught the world. 
There, in the little village of Hanover, the burning words of Patrick Henry first awakened the 
glowing fire of liberty in the bosoms of his countrymen ; and here, too, the great Clay was nur- 
tured in that lofty spirit of patriotism, from which sprung his high and devoted public services. 
Not far off, we may bend again, revcrentlj', over the ashes of Madison and Monroe, of Lee and 
Wirt, and of a host of others, whom but to mention would be a fatiguing task. 

Yet there remains unspoken, though not forgetfully, one other name, the first and greatest— 

* Tlie "Komance or American Landscape." 



150 



VIEGINIA. 



not of Virginia only, not of tliis wide Republic alone, but of the world itself— a name wliicli may- 
well, and without other laurel, glorify the brow of a nation— the immortal name of Washington 1 

It is a pity that Virginia, while no less singularly interesting in her physical than in her moral 
aspect has thus far won so little of the attention of our landscapists. Despite the extent and 
variety of her scenery, from the alluvial plains of the eastern division, through the picturesque 
hills and dales of the middle region, onward to the summits of the Blue Ridge, with their inter- 
vening valleys, and mountain streams, and water-falls— the white cotton umbrella of the artist has 
scarcely ever been seen to temper its sunshine, except in a few instances of particularly notable 
interest— as the Natural Bridge and the grand views near Harper's Ferry. The landscape of 
Virginia is everywhere suggestive ; and even in the least varied regions continually rises to the 
beauty of a fine picture. There are the rich valleys of the James and the Roanoke Rivers, said 
to resemble, in many of their characteristics, the scenery of the Loire and the Garonne ; and, far 
off among the hills are the rushing and plunging waters of the great Kanawha, and the beetling 
cliffs of New River. 

In the very heart of these natural delights, and superadded to all the political and historical 
associations at which we have hinted, Virginia attracts us by a wealth of health-giving waters, in 
the form of mineral springs, in number and nature infinite, where people " go on crutches, looking 
dismal, and come away on legs, with their faces wreathed in smiles — go with limbs stifTeued into 
pot-hooks-and-hangers, and leave endowed with a good jointure — go like shadows, but do not so 
depart." Magic Waters which, as Peregrine Prolix says, according to popular belief, cure yellow 
jaundice, white swelling, blue devils, and black plague ; scarlet fever, spotted fever, and fever of 
every kind and color ; hydrocephalus, hydrothorax, hydrocele, and hydrophobia ; hypochondria 
and hypocrisy; dyspepsia, diarrhcea, diabetes, and die-of-any-thing ; gout, gormandizing, and 
grogging ; liver complaint, colic, and all other diseases and bad habits, except chewing, smoking, 
spitting, and swearing. 

For your health or pleasure, dear traveller, we shall conduct you, anon, to these high and 
mighty shrines of Hygiene, the Virginia Springs. 



RAILWAYS IK VIRGINIA. 

The links of the Great Northern and Southern 
route, from Acquia Creek on the Potomac, to 
Fredericksburg, 15 miles ; to Richmond, 60 ; to 
Petersburg, 22 ; to Weldon, N. C, 63. 

The Seaboard and Roanoke, in the south-east 
corner of the State, SO miles from Portsmouth 
and Norfolk to Weldon, N. C, on the New York 
and New Orleans route. 

The Richmond and Danville extends 141 miles 
south-west from Richmond to Danville, on the 
North Carolina boundary. 

The Petersburg and Lynchburg road extends 
from Lynchburg, 123 miles, to Petersburg, on 
the Great Northern and Southern lino, and 
thence, 10 miles, to City Point, on James River. 
It intersects the Richmond and Danville road, 
about midway, at Burkesville. 

The Virginia and Tennessee Railway extends 
from Lynchburg, 204 miles, to Bristol, thence to 
Knoxville by the East Tenn. and Virginia R. R. 

The Virginia Central Railway extends west- 
ward, 95 miles, to Jackson River, through Han- 
over, Louisa, Gordonsville, Charlottesville, 



Staunton, Millboro', and other places. Route to 
the Virginia Springs, AVeir's Cave, etc. 

The Orange and Alexandria Railway, from 
Alexandria to Lynchburg, 178 miles. Stations. — 
Alexandria to Springfield, 9 miles ; Burke's, 14 ; 
Fairfax, 17 ; -Union Mills, 23 ; Manassas, 27 
(junction of Manassas Gap Road); Bristoe, 31; 
Weaversville, 38 ; Warrenton junction, 41 
(Br.anch nine miles to Warrenton) ; Culpepper 
C. H., 62; Orange C. H., 79 ; Gordonsville, 88; 
Lynchburg (via Virginia Central), 170. 

Manassas Gap, from Manassas (Orange and 
Alexandria road) 88 miles to Strasburg. 

Winchester and Potomac Railway, 32 miles 
from Winchester to Harper's Ferry (Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad). 

Roanoke Valley road, 22 miles from Clarks- 
ville to Ridgeway, on the Raleigh and Gaston 
Railway, N. C. 

The North Western Railway (north-west coi*- 
ner of the State) extends from Grafton, on the 
line of the Baltimore and Ohio Road, to Parkers- 
burg, on the Ohio River. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 397 miles 
from Baltimore to Wheeling, is partly in Mary- 



VIEGINIA. 



151 



land and partly in Virginia. It follows the route 
of the Potomac River, the dividing line for a 
long way between the two Statce. See Mary- 
land for further- account of this road. 



Eicliinond..— Hotels ; 

Ballard House, 



-The Exchange and 



Richmond, the capital of the " Old Dominion," 
as Virginia is famiharly called, is in the eastern 
part of the State, directly on the line of the great 
railway mail route from New England to New 
Orleans, through Boston, New York, Philadel- 
phia, Baltimore, Washington, Charleston, and 
other cities, about 100 miles in a straight line 
south by west of Washington, from which city it 
is reached by steamboat down the Potomac 
River to Acquia Creels, and thence through 
Predericksburg by railway, or, more leisurely, 
from Baltimore and from Philadelphia, every 
Wednesday and Saturday, and from New York 
every Saturday, by steamer, outside sea voyage, 
except from Baltimore, whence the way leads 
down the Chesapeake Bay, and then (as from 
Now York and Philadelphia) up the James 
River. 

Richmond, as first seen approaching by the 
river, is a city seated on a hill, says a traveller, 
and has the imposing aspect of a large and 
populous capital. It owes this, its first dignity, 
in some measure to the happy and elevated po- 
sition of its Capitol, which stands on Shockhoe 
Hill, and afar oft' has a handsome and classical 
appearance ; when, however, you approach with- 
'in criticising distance, it loses some of that en- 
chantment which distance ever lends the view. 
Though Richmond is not a great capital, it is, 
nevertheless, a flourishing and interesting city, 
and now probably contains nearly 33,000 in- 
habitants, two-thirds of this numljer being white, 
and the rest black, free or slave. It has been 
the scene of some historical events of great dig- 
nity and importance. The Capitol stands — we 
still quote the traveller, whose words we have, 
with some variation, used in the last sentences — 
on an elevated plain, near the brow of Shockhoe 
Hill, and its front looks towards the valley of 
James River, and over the compact part of 
Richmond. The view from the portico is ex- 
tensive, various, and beautiful. It is a Graeco- 
American buUding, having a portico at one end 
consisting of a colonnade, entablature, and pedi- 
ment, whose apicial angle is rather too acute. 
There are windows on all sides, and doors on the 
two longer sides, which are reached by high and 
unsightly double flights of steps placed sidewise, 
under which are other doors leading to the 
basement. 



Entering by one of the tipper doors, an entry 
leads to a square hall in the centre of the build- 
ing, surmounted by a dome which transmits light 
from above. The hall is about forty feet square, 
and about twenty-five above the floor ; has a 
gallery running round it, in which are nine 
doors, communicating witli various apartments. 
There are eight niches in the walls, in one of 
which is a marble bust of La Fayette. Virginia 
could now, easily and honorably, fill six of the 
remaining seven. Patrick Henry, Thomas 
Jeflerson, James Madison, James Monroe, John 
Randolph, and John Marshall, would almost 
complete the octave. 

In the centre of the square hall above describ- 
ed, there is amarble statue of GEORGE WASH- 
INGTON, on which the sculptor's legend reads : 
" Fait par Houdon Citoyen Fran^ais, 17S8." 

The statue is mounted on a rectangular pedes- 
tal, four and a half feet high, on one of the larger 
sides of which is the following honest and 
affectionate inscription : 

"The General Assembly of the Cominonwealth of Vir- 
ginia, have caused this statue to be erected, as a monument 
of aflection and gratitude to 

GEOEGE WASHINGTON; 

■who, uniting to the endoivments of the Hero the virtues of 
the Patriot, and exerting both in establishing the Liberties 
of bis country, has rendered his name dear to his Fellow- 
citizens, and given the world an immortal example of trus 
Glory. Done in the 3'ear of 

G H E I S T 

One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eighty-Eight, and in the 
Year of the Commonwealth the Twelfth." 

The simplicity, dignity, and truth of that in- 
scription are worthy of the great original com- 
memorated, and of the young and chivalrio 
State, whose ready gratitude so early erected 
this lasting monument, and overflowed in lan- 
guage so beautiful and appropriate. 

The statue (like the inscription) is an honest 
Christian statue, and is decently clad in the uni- 
form worn by an American General during the 
Revolution, and not half covered by the semi- 
barbarous and pagan toga, with throat uncovered 
and naked arm, as if prepared for the barber 
and the bleeder. It is of the size of life, and 
stands resting on the right foot, having the left 
somewhat advanced, with the knee bent. The 
left hand rests on a bundle of fasces, on which 
hang a military cloak and a small sword, and 
against which leans a plough. The feet are 
plunged in whole boots, which are strapped to 
tlie knee-buttons of the breeches, which are sur- 
mounted by an old-fashioned waistcoat, fortified 
with deep flaps and most capacious pockets. 
MUitary spurs defend the heels, and a capitai 



152 



VIRGINIA. 



pair of Woodstock gloves the hands. The head 
■wears no hat, and has the hair in the fashion of 
fortj' years ago, and looks just lilie his, when he 
raised his hat in answer to the salutation of 
some humble fellow-citizen encountered in his 
morning walk in Chestnut street. The attitude 
is natural and easy, and the likeness to the great 
original is strong. 

The same generous and patriotic spirit which 
BO early enriched Virginia with this famous work 
of Houdon, has recently added to the art treas- 
ures of the State a fine statue of Clay, and the 
grand bronze sculptures by the late eminent 
American artist, Crawford, erected upon the no- 
ble terrace-height surrounding the Capitol. This 
magnificent contribution of Virginia to the art of 
the country is a colossal equestrian statue of Gen- 
eral Washington, elevated upon a grand pedestal 
or base, embellished with historic scenes in bas- 
relief, and supported at each angle by statues of 
other illustrious sons of the State. 

Besides the Capitol, the City Hall, the Peni- 
tentiary, the Custom-House, are note-worthy ed- 
ifices. The City Hall is an elegant structure, at 
an angle of the Capitol Square ; the Peniten- 
tiary has a fafade of 300 feet, near the river, in 
the west suburb of the city. The estimated cost 
of the Custom House is nearly half a million of 
dollars. 

Among the churches of Richmond, over SO in 
number, is some architectural skill worth ob- 
serving. The Monumental Church (Eiiiscopal) 
stands where once stood the Theatre, so disas- 
trously burned in ISll, at the sad sacrifice of the 
life of the Governor of the State, and more than 
sixty others of the ill-fated audience in the build- 
ing at the time. 

liichmond College, here, was founded by the 
Baptists in 1S32. St. Vincent's College is under 
the direction of the Catholics. The Medical De- 
partment of Hampden and Sj'dney College, es- 
tablished in 1838, occupies an attractive building 
of Egyptian architecture. 

The Rapids or Falls of James River, which 
extend six miles above the city, and have a de- 
scent of 80 feet, afford valuable water-power. 
The navigation of the river is opened above the 
city by the assistance of a canal which overcomes 
the rapids. The city is supplied with water 
from the river by means of forcing-pumps, which 
furnish three reservoirs, of 1,000,000 of gallons 
each. Richmond is connected by three bridges 
with Manchester and Spring Hill. 

The railway system, of which Richmond has 
become the centre, is adding daily to its extent 
and wealth. The Richmond and Petersburg 
Raih'oad is its first route southward on the 
great Northern and Southern ti-.ansit, and the 
line from Fredericksburg the first to the north- 



ward. The Central Railway, after leaving 
the city, makes a long excursion to the north, 
and then turns westward into the interior of the 
State — the region of the famous Springs. It is 
completed already 195 miles to Jackson's River, 
via GordoDsville, CharlottesviUe, and Staunton, 
and it is to be continued through the State to 
Guyandotte on the Ohio River. This is a fine 
route, from the West or from the East to the 
Springs, to Weir's Cave, and other wonders of 
Virginia. 

The Richmond and Danville Railway runs 
south-west 141 miles, tothe upper boundary of 
North Carolina ; and connects with the railways 
of Tennessee, Georgia, and the Carolinas. The 
city is connected with Lynchburg by railway, 
and thence by the Virginia and Tennessee line 
(through all the southern part of the State) with 
Knoxville, Tennessee. This last route is com- 
pleted (as we write) 204 miles from Lynchburg 
south-west to Bristol. 

The James River and the Kanawha Canal ex- 
tend westward between 200 and 300 miles. 

Richmond is the great depot for the famous 
tobacco product of Virginia. It makes also large 
exports of wheat and flour. 

Norfolk.— Hotels -.—National Hotel. 

Norfolk, Portsmouth, and Gosport lioutes. — 
From Baltimore dailj^, by steamboat down Ches- 
apeake Bay. From Richmond, by steamer down 
James River. From Weldon, N. C. (on the 
great Northern and Southern Railway route), by 
the Seaboard and Roanoke Railway 80 miles, 
and from Philadelphia and New York direct by 
rcgul.ir lines of steamers on the Atlantic Ocean. 

Norfolk is upon the Elizabeth River, eight 
miles from Hampton Roads and 32 miles from 
the ocean. It has some 17,000 inhabitants, and 
is, after Richmond, the most populous city in 
Virginia. A canal comes in here through the 
Dismal Swamp. Norfolk is a very pleasant 
town, irregularly built upon a level plain. 

The harbor is large, safe, and easily accessible, 
defended at its entrance by Forts Monroe and 
Calhoun. It is a great market for wild fowl, 
oysters, poultry and vegetables. 

The city was laid out in 1705. In 1776 it was 
burnt by the British. In 1855 it was visited by 
the yellow fever, which carried ofl' several hun- 
dreds of its inhabitants. 

Portsmouth, directly opposite Norfolk, is a 
naval depot of the United States. In the Navy 
Yard upwards of 1,000 men are employed. The 
building occupied by the TJ. S. Naval Hospital 
is an imposing-looking atfair of brick, stuccoed. 
The Seaboard and Roanoke Railway comes in at 
Portsmouth from Weldon, N. C. Ferry-boats 



YIKGINIA. 



153 



ply between the to-wn and Norfolk. Gosport 
lies just below. The United States Dry Dock at 
this suburb, is a work of great extent and interest. 

Petersburg-.— HoTKLS ■.—Jarratfs Hotel. 

Petersburg, the third town in Virginia in pop- 
ulation (about 16,000), is a port of entry situoted 
on the Appomattox River, distant by railway 
from Eichmond 22 miles ; from Fredericksburg, 
82 miles ; from Washington City, 152 miles. It 
is on the great route from New York to Charles- 
ton and New Orleans. The South Side Railway 
comes in here from Lynchburg, 133 miles dis- 
tant. The Appomattox Road connects Peters- 
burg with City Point, 10 miles away, at the en- 
trance of the Appomattox into the James River. 
The romantic ruins of the old church of Bland- 
ford are within the limits of this borough. 

Alexandria is upon the Potomac River, seven 
miles below "Washington City by steam ferry. 
Tho Orange and Alexandria Railway extends 
hence 88 miles to Gordonsville, and the Manas- 
Bus Gap Road 88 miles to Strasburg. This city, 
until retroceded to Virginia by the general gov- 
ernment, was included in the District of Co- 
lumbia. 

Harper's Perry.— Hotels :— 

Harper's Ferry is on the line of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railway, 82 miles from Baltimore City. 
The Winchester and Potomac Railway connects 
it with Winchester, 32 miles distant. This 
place, famous for its beautiful scenery, is at the 
confluence of the Potomac and the Shenandoah 
Rivers. This meeting of the waters is imme- 
diately after their passage through a gap of the 
Blue Ridge, which was thought by Jeflerson to 
be "one of the most stupendous scenes in nature, 
and well worth a voj-age across the Atlantic to 
witness." The place was formerly called She- 
nandoah Falls. A National Armory, employing 
several hundred hands, is located here. See 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway. 

"Winchester.— Hotels :— 

Winchester is 114 miles from Baltimore and 32 
from Harper's Ferry by the Baltimore and Ohio 
and tho Winchester and Potomac Railways. It 
is in the midst of a pleasant and picturesque 
country in the north-eastern part of the State, 
west of the Blue Ridge and Avithin the limits of 
the great valley of Virginia. 

The Ruins of Jamestown. This spot, 

in its history one of the most romantic on the 

contkient, is upon an island near the north bank 

of the James River, 32 miles above its entrance 

1* 



into the Chesapeake Bay, passed in the voyage 
from Baltimore to Richmond. The traveller 
must not neglect the opportunity to recall its 
varied story of the early colonial adventures and 
sufferings — the gallantry of Captain John Smith, 
and the gentle devotion of the Indian Princess 
Pocahontas. Its revolutionary history, too, may 
be recalled with interest ; its battle-fields of 
1781— and many other memorable locahties and 
material remembrances of all the traditionary 
past — in the ruins of its ancient church and 
other relics which time has not yet qtiite ob- 
literated. 

Predericksburg — Hotels : — Commerce 
Hotel. 

Fredericksburg is on the line of railways from 
New York to New Orleans, 70 miles below 
Washington City and 60 miles above Richmond. 
It is an agreeable, ancient-looking town, situated 
in a fertile valley on the banks of the Rappahan- 
nock River. 

The Birthplace of "Washington. It was 

in the vicinity of Fredericksburg that Washing- 
ton was born, and here he passed his early years ; 
and here, too, repose, beneath an unflnished mon- 
ument, the remains of his honored mother. 

The birthplace of the Father of his country is 
about half a mile from the junction of Pope'a 
Creek with the Potomac, in Westmoreland 
county. It is upon the " Wakefield estate," now 
in the possession of John E. Wilson, Esq. The 
house in which the great patriot was born was 
destroyed before the Revolution. It was a plain 
Virginia farm-house of the better class, with 
four rooms, and an enormous chimney, on the 
outside, at each end. The spot where it stood is 
now marked by a slab of freestone, which was 
deposited by George W. P. Custis, Esq., in the 
presence of other gentlemen, in June, 1815. 
" Desirous," says Mr. Custis, in a letter on the 
subject to Mr. Lossing, " of making the ceremo- 
nial of depositing the stone as imposing as cir- 
cumstances would permit, we enveloped it in the 
'Star-Spangled Banner' of our country, and it 
was borne to its resting-place in the arms of the 
descendants of four revolutionary patriots and 
soldiers. * * We gathered together the bricks 
of the ancient chimney, which once formed the 
hearth around which Washington, in his infancy, 
had played — and constructed a rude kind of ped- 
estal, on which we reverently placed the Fiest 
Stone, commending it to the respect and pro- 
tection, of the American people in genera], and 
of those of Westmoreland in particular." On 
the tablet is this simple inscription — " Here, 
THE llTH OF Fbbruart (o. s), 1732, Geoegb 
Washington was Bobn.*' 



154 



VIEGINIA. 



The Tomlj of the UTother ofWashing- 
ton. The remains of the mother of Washing- 
ton repose in the immediate vicinage of Fred- 
ericksburg, on the spot -which she herself, years 
before her death, selected for her grave, and to 
•which she was wont to retire for private and de- 
votional thought. It Is marked by an uniinished 
yet still imposing monument. The corner-stone 
of this sacred structure was laid by Andrew 
Jackson, President of the United States at the 
time, on the 'Jth of May, 1S33, in the presence 
of a grand concourse, and with most solemn 
ceremonial. After the lapse of almost a quarter 
of a century the monuraont remains still un- 
finished. 

The mother of "Washington resided, during 
the latter part of her life, in Fredericksburg, 
near the spot where she now lies buried. The 
house of her abode, occupied of late days by 
Richard Stirling, Esq., is on the corner of 
Charles and Lewis streets. It was hei-e that 
her last but memorable interview with her illus- 
trious son took place, when she was bowed down 
with age and disease. 

Hanover Court House, memorable as 
the scene of Patrick Henry's early triumphs, 
and as the birthplace of Henry Cla3', is near the 
Pamumky River, and 20 miles above Richmond. 
The Great Southern Railway passes close by. 

The Birthplace of Henry Clay is be- 
tween three and four miles from Hanover Court 
House, on the right of the turnpike road to 
Richmond. The flat, piny region, in which it is 
situated, is called the Slashes of Hanover ; hence 
the popular sobriquet familiarly applied to tlie 
great statesman, of the " Millboy of the Slashes." 
The house is a little, one-storj', frame building, 
with dormer windows, and a large outside chim- 
ncj' (after the universal fashion of Southern 
country-houses) at each gable. In this humble 
tenement the Immortal Senator was born, in 
1777. 

Patrick Henry's Early Triumphs at 
Hanover. Hanover awakens pleasant memo- 
ries in its stories of the patriotic ardor of Patrick 
Henry assembling his volunteers and marching 
to Williamsburg to demand the restoration of 
the powder which Lord Dunmore had removed 
from the public magazine, or payment therefor^ 
a daring demand, which he succeeded in en- 
forcing, as the Governor, alarmed at the strength 
of his cortege, which grew as he went along to 
150 in number, sent out the Receiver-General 
with authority to compromise the matter. The 
young leader required and obtained the value 
of the powder, 330 pounds, and sent it to the 
Treasurj', at Williamsburg. This incident hap- 
pened at ISTewcastle, once a prosperous village, 
but now a ruia, with, a single house only on its 



site, a few miles below Hanover Court House, 
on the Pamumky River. 

Williamsburg', the oldest incorporated 
town in Virginia, and a place of extreme interest 
in its historical associations, is built upon a 
plain, between the York and James Rivera, six 
miles from each. This was the seat' of the Co- 
lonial Government anterior to the Revolution, 
and the Capital of the State until 1779. William 
and Mary College— the oldest educational estab- 
lishment in the United States, after Harvard 
University — is located here. 

Statue of Liord Botetourt. Of the nu- 
merous mementoes of the past which this ven- 
erable town contains, the most interesting are to 
be found in the main street, a broad, pleasantly 
shaded, and rural-looking avenue. In the centre 
of the lawn, fronting the edifice of the College, 
is a mutilated statue of Lord Botetourt, one of 
the most popular of the old colonial governors. 
This statue was placed in its present position in 
1797. 

Palace of Lord Dunmore. The remains 
of this ancient building, the home of the last of 
the royal governors of Virginia, is at the head 
of a pleasant broad court, extending from the 
Main "Street in front of the City Hall. It was 
built of brick. The centre edifice was accident- 
ally destroyed by fire, while occupied by the 
French soldiers, just after the surrender of 
Cornwallis at Yorktown. Here the stately old 
Governor lived, or attempted to live, in royal 
si^lendor. All that now remains of his pomp 
are the two little out-buildings or wings of his 
palace, yet to be seen by the visitor at Williams- 
burg. 

Brent 071 Church, a venerable edifice of the 
early piart of the last century, stands on the 
public square, near Palace street or Court. It is 
a cruciform buUding, surmounted bj' a steeple. 

The Old Magazine. On the same area as 
Brenton Church is an old magazine, an octagonal 
edifice, built during the administration of Gover- 
nor Spottswood. 

The Gld Capitol stood on the site of the 
present Court House, on the Square, opposite 
the Magazine. It was destroyed by fire in 1832. 
A few of the old arches lie yet around half buried 
in the greensward. It was in the " Old Capitol " 
that the Burgesses of Virginia were assembled, 
when Patrick Henry, the youngest member of 
that body, presented the series of bold resolu- 
tions which led to his famous speech — " Cjesar 
had his Brutus, Charles the First his Cromwell, 
and George the Third" — concluded by those 
master-words of raillery, when the excited as- 
sembly interrupted him with the cry of " Treason 1 
treason I"— "may profit by their example. If 
this be treason, make the most of it 1 " 



VIEGINIA. 



155 



Tlie Apollo Room of the Raleigh Tavern is an 
apartment in auotlier time-houoi'ed old building 
of "Williamsburg, in which the House of Bur- 
gesses assembled to consider the Revolutiomiry 
movements, which were then passing in Massa- 
chusetts. This assembly had just been dissolved 
by the Royal Governor, in consequence of its 
passage of acts in opposition to those of the Lords 
and Commons of England just before received. 
The Queen's Rangers, commanded by Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Simcoe, entered Williamsburg, driv- 
ing out the Virginia militia, on the stormy night 
of April 19th, 17S1. 

The thoughtful traveller will delight himself 
by recalling other incidents in the history of the 
localities wc have presented to his notice, and in 
following the course of the great train of events 
which resulted from or were connected with 
them. 

William and Mary College, at Williamsburg, 
as we have said already, the oldest establishment 
of the kind in the Union, after Harvard Univer- 
sitj', was fonnded in 1692. Its library numbers 
between 5,000 and 6,000 volumes, and it lias usu- 
ally in attendance from 150 to 200 students. 

The Eastern Lwiatic Asylum of Virginia is at 
Williamsburg. 

Yorktown — memorable as the scene of that 
closing event in the Anaerican Revolution, the 
surrender of the British army, under Lord Corn- 
wallis — is upon the York River, 11 miles from 
its entrance into Chesapeake Bay, 70 miles east- 
south-east of Richmond, and about 12 miles from 
Williamsburg. It was formerly a flourishing 
town, but is now reduced to the character of a 
" Deserted Village," with only forty or fifty 
houses, all told. 

All the region of Williamsburg, Torktown, 
and the surrounding country of Eastern Virginia, 
60 thickly strewn with memories of thrilling and 
eventful incidents in the history of the American 
Revolution, is for the most part a peaceful, level, 
pastoi-al land, of piny woods and grassy mead- 
ows ; yet the village of Yorktown is built upon 
a high bluff, on either side of whicii is a deep 
ravine. 

At the time of the famous siege, in 1781, the 
town contained about sixty houses. In 1S14 it 
was desolated again by fire, and has never since 
recovered its former activity. 

Remains of the Intrenchmenis, cast up by the 
British on the south and east sides of the town, 
are j^et to be seen. These mounds vary from 12 
to 16 feet in height, and extend, iu broken lines, 
from the river bank to the sloping grounds back 
of the villflce. 

Cornwallis' s Cave is an excavation in the bluff, 
upon which the village stands, reputed to have 
been made and used by Lord Cornwallis as a 



council chamber during the siege. It is exhibited 
with this character for a small fee. A quarter 
of a mile below this cave there is another, which 
there is good reason to believe really was thus 
occuijied by the English commander. 

Sieg-e of Yorktown. On the 1st of Sep- 
tember, 1781, portions of the British army pro- 
ceeded up the York River, from the Chesapeake 
Bay ; and, on the 22d, Lord Cornwallis, with his 
entire force of 7,000 men, arrived, and Ijegan his 
fortifications. He constructed a line of woiks 
entirely around the village, and across the penin- 
sula of Gloucester in its rear ; besides some 
field-works some distance off. He was speedily 
met by the American and French troops, which 
came in to the number of 12,000 ; and was at the 
same time blockaded by the French ships at the 
mouth of the river. The final result was a 
general engagement, which resulted, on the 17th. 
of October, in a request from Lord Cornwallis 
for a cessation of hostilities, and in the total sur-' 
render of his army, on the morning of the 19th. 

The precise spot, at Yorktown, where the 
scene of the surrender of the British arms and 
standards took place, will be pointed out to the 
inquiring visitor. This great event is the theme 
of one of Colonel Trumbull's pictures in tho 
Rotunda of tho Capitol at Washington. 

Lynclaburg.— Hotels :— 

Lynchburg is a prosperous place on the James 
River, by railway from Richmond 124 miles, 
from Petersburg 133 miles. Tho Virginia and 
Tennessee Railwaj', extending hence westward 
to the railways of Tennessee and other western 
and south-western routes, is in operation at pre- 
sent 204 miles to Bristol. Tho James River and 
Kanawha Canal, following the course of the 
river from Richmond, passes Lynchburg on its 
way to Buchanan and Covington. 

Lynchburg is on the route to and in the imme- 
diate vicinity of the Spring region. The Natural 
Bridge and the peaks of Otter are here easily 
accessible. 

Lexing'ton.— Hotels : — 

Lexington is charmingly situated in the moun. 
tain and spring region of Western Virginia, 35 
miles north-west of Lynchburg, and 159 from 
Richmond, by railway to Lynchburg, and thence 
by stage. Washington College, here, was found- 
ed in 1798, and was endowed by General Wash- 
ington. The Virginia Military Institute was 
established here, by the State Legislature, in 
1838-9. 

In July, 1S56, a copy in bronze of Houdon's 
Statue of Washington, iu the Capitol at Rich- 



156 



viEGnsriA. 



mond, was erected here, •witli gay inangiiral 
ceremonies and fetes. Lexington "was com- 
menced in 177S, and the present population is 
about 2,000. 

Cliarlottesville.— Hotels :— 

Charlottesville, famous as the seat of the Uni- 
versity of Virginia, and for its vicinage to Mon- 
ticello, the home and tomb of Thomas Jefferson, 
is in the east-central part of the State, 97 miles 
from Richmond by the Central RaUway, and 119 
miles from "Washington City (via Alexandria) 
by the Orange and Alexandria and the "Virginia 
Central Railways. The Central Road continues 
from Charlottesville, via Staunton, into the 
spring, mountain, and cave region. 

The University of Virginia, one of the most 
distinguished of the colleges of the "United States, 
is situated about a mile west of the village of 
, Charlottesville. It is built (Cyclopajdia of Amer- 
ican Literature) on modea-ately elevated ground, 
and forms a striking feature in a beautiful land- 
scape. On the soiith-west it is shut in by little 
mountains, beyond which, a few miles distant, 
rise the broken, and occasionally steep and rug- 
ged, but not elevated ridges, the characteristic 
feature of which is expressed by the name of 
Ragged Mountains. To the north-west the Blue 
Ridge, some 20 miles oft", presents its deep-col- 
ored outline, stretching to the north-east and 
looking down upon the mountain-like hills that 
here and there rise from the plain without its 
western base. To the east, the eye rests upon 
the low range of mountains that bounds the view 
as far as the vision can extend north-eastward 
and south-westward along its slopes, except 
where it is interrupted directly to the east by a 
hilly but fertile plain, through which the Ri- 
vanna, with its discolored stream, flows by the 
base of Monticello. To the south, the view 
reaches far away until the horizon meets the 
plain, embracing a region lying between the 
mountains on either hand, and covered with for- 
ests interspersed with spots of cultivated land. 

The "University of "Virginia was founded in 
1S19, by Thomas Jefferson, and so great was his 
interest in its success, and his estimate of its 
importance, that in his epitaph, found among his 
papers, he ranks his share in its foundation third 
among the achievements and honors of his life — 
the authorship of the Declaration of Indepen- 
dence being the first, and of the Virginia Statute 
for Religious Freedom the second. The "Univer- 
sity is endowed and controlled by the State. 

Honticello.— Hotels :— 

MontioeUo, once the Tbeautiful home and now 



the tomb of JeiFerson, is about four miles west 
of Charlottesville. " This venerated mansion," 
says Mr. Lossing, in his Feld Book of the Revo- 
lution, " is yet standing, though somewhat dilapi- 
dated and deprived of its former beauty by neg- 
lect. The furniture of its distinguished owner 
is nearly all gone, except a few pictures and 
mirrors : otherwise the interior of the house is 
the same as when Jefferson died. It is upon an 
eminence, with many aspen trees around it, and 
commands a view of the Blue Ridge for 150 miles 
on one side, and on the other one of the most 
beautiful and extensive landscapes in the world. 
Wirt, writing of the interior arrangements of the 
house during Mr. Jefferson's lifetime, records 
that, in the spacious and lofty hall which opens 
to the visitor on entering, 'he marks no tawdry 
and unmeaning ornaments ; but before, on the 
right, on the left, all around, the eye is struck 
and gratified by objects of science and taste, so 
classed and arranged as to produce their finest 
efl'eot. On one side specimens of sculpture, set 
out in such order as to exhibit at a coup cCmil the 
historic progress of that art, from the first rude 
attempts of the Aborigines of our countrj-, up 
to that exquisite and finished bust of the great 
patriot himself, from the master hand of Carra- 
chi. On the other side, the visitor sees displayed 
a vast collection of the specimens of the Indian 
art, their paintings, weapons, ornaments, and 
manufactures ; on another, an array of fossil 
productions of our country, mineral and animal ; 
the petrified remains of those colossal monsters 
which once trod our forests, and are no more; 
and a variegated display of the branching honors 
of those monarchs of the waste that still people 
the wilds of the American Continent ! In a large 
saloon were exquisite productions of the painter's 
art, and from its windows opened a view of the 
surrounding country such as no painter could 
imitate. There were, too, medallions and engra- 
vings in great profusion.' Monticello was a point 
of great attraction to the learned of all lands, 
when travelling in this country, while Mr. Jef- 
ferson livedT His writings made him favorably 
known as a scholar, and his public position made 
him honored by the nations. The remains of 
Mr. Jefl'erson lie in a snail family cemetery by 
the side of the winding road leading to Monti- 
ceUo." 



Staunton. 



-Hotels : — 



Staunton is upon a small branch of the Shenan- 
doah, on the A'^irginia Central Railway, 120 
miles wgst-north-west of Richmond. It has 
long been a point of rendezvous for tourists to 
the Spring Region, hard by, though the railway 
now takes the traveller thither, yet nearer. It 



VIEGINIA. 



157 



is from. Staunton that -wo reach the famous 
AVier'8 Cave, 18 miles north-eastward. Staun- 
ton is a prttty and prosperous village, with a 
population of between 2,000 and 3,000. It is the 
seat of the Western Lunatic Asylum, and of the 
Virginia Institution for the Deaf, Dumb and 
Blind. 

Wheeling-.— Hotels :— 

"WTieeling, famous as the Western terminus of 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railway (from Balti- 
more City, 397 miles), is on the Ohio River, on 
both sides of the Wheeling Creek. It is 92 
miles below Pittsburg, Pa., and 350 from Cin- 
cinnati. The city is built in a glen between bold 
hills. It is the most important place in Western 
Virginia in population, trade, and manufactui-es. 
Railway lines from the Western States meet the 
Baltimore and Ohio route at Wheeling. 



THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

WIER'S cave — THE NATURAL BRIDGE — THE PEAKS 
OF OTTER — AND OTHER SCENES. 

Routes to the Springs. Ftotti Baltimore to 
Washington, 3S miles— to Alexandria, by steam- 
boat on the Potomac, or by stage, 7 miles — to 
Gordonsville, by the Orange and Alexandria 
Railway, 88 miles — thence to the present termi- 
nus of the Virginia Central Road, and thence 
by stage. From Baltimore to Harper's Ferry 
and Winchester by railway, and thence by rail- 
way and stage ; a pleasant but not the most ex- 
peditious way. Or from Washington by the 
Potomac River and Fredericksburg Railway 130 
miles to Richmond, thence by the Virginia Cen- 
tral Railway, as far as it at present extends, 
through Charlottesville, Staunton, Goshen, etc. 
Approaching from the South, travellers should 
diverge from Richmond. 

From Richmond one may also go b}' railway 
to Lynchburg, and thence via Lexington, the 
Natural Bridge, etc. 

From the West, passengers should leave the 
Ohio River and route at Guyandotte, thenco by 



For still other routes, and to points without 
the Central Spring region, see each in Index, or 
further on in this chapter. 

The "White Sulphur Springrs.— Not 
knowing which of the several routes our travel- 
ler may desire to follow, we shall, instead of 
journeying in any prescribed line from Spring 
to Spring, jump at once to that central and most 
famous point, the White Sulphur. 

The favorite Spa is on Howard's Creek, in 
Greenbrier County, directly on the edge of the 



Great Western Valley, and near the base of the 
Alleghany range of mountains, which rise at all 
points in picturesque and winning beauty. 
Kate's Mountain, which recalls some heroic ex- 
ploits of an Indian maiden of long ago, is one 
fine point in the scene, southward ; while the 
Greenbrier Hills lie two miles away, towards 
the west, and the lofty Alleghany towers up f 
majestically, half a dozen miles off, on the north 
and east. 

The White Sulphur is in the heart of the 
celebrated group of Western Virginia Springs, 
with the Hot Spring, 38 miles distant, on the 
north ; the Sweet Spring, 17 miles to the east- 
ward ; the Salt and the Red Springs, 24 and 41 
miles, respectively, on the south ; and the Blue 
Spring, 22 miles awaj', on the wesf^ 

The vicinage of the White Sulphur is as grate- 
ful in natural attractions as the waters are ad- 
mirable in medicinal value. Its locale is a charm- 
ing valley, environed, like that of Rasselas, by 
soaring hills, and the summer home in its midst 
has all the conveniences and luxuries for a verit- 
able Castle of Indolence. Fifty acres, perhaps, 
are occupied with lawns and walks, and the 
cabins and cottages of the guests, built in rows 
around the public apartments, the dining-room, 
the ball-room, etc., give the place quite a merry, 
happy village air. There is Alabama Row, 
Louisiana, Paradise, Baltimore, and Virginia 
Rows, Georgia, Wolf and Bachelor's Rows, 
Broadway, the Colonnade, Virginia Lawn, the 
Spring, and other specialities. The cottages are 
built of wood, brick, and of logs, one story high ; 
and, altogether, the social arrangement and 
spirit here, as at all the surrounding Springs, has 
a pleasant, quiet, home sentiment, very much 
more desirable than the metropolitan temper of 
more accessible and more thronged resorts. 

It is said that the site of these Springs was 
once the favorite hunting-ground of the Shaw- 
nees, a tradition supported by the remains found 
in various parts of the valley, in the shape of 
implements of the chase and ancient graves. 

It is not known precisely at what period the 
Spring was discovered. Though the Indians, 
undoubtedly, knew its virtues, there is no re- 
cord of its being used by the whites until 1778, 
when Mrs. Anderson, wife of one of the early 
settlers, was borne hither on a litter, from her 
house fifteen miles off, for the relief of a rheu- 
matic affection. Her recovery, from the em- 
ployment of the water in bathing and drinking, 
was noised abroad, and in succeeding years other 
visitors came, pitching tents near the Spring in 
the absence of .ail kind of accommodation. Log- 
c.ibins were first erected on the spot in 17S4-6, 
and the place began to assume something of its 
present aspect about 1820. Since then, it has 



158 



VIRGINIA. 



been yearly improved, until it is capable of pleas- 
antly housing some 1,500 guests. 

The Spring bubUes up from the earth in the 
lowest part of the valley, and is covered by a 
pavilion, formed of 12 Ionic columns, supporting 
a dome, crowned by a statue of the btixom lassie 
Hygeia. 

■ The Spring is at an elevation of 2,000 feet above 
tide-water. Its temperature is 62° Fahrenheit, 
and is uniform through all seasons. It yields 
about 30 gallons per minute, and the supply is 
neither diminished in dry weather, nor increased 
by the longest rains. 

We shall not occupy our little space with the 
record of the analysis of the water here, or else- 
where, as the visitor may easily inform himself 
in that respoft on the spot. One of its most 
marked properties, says the waggish Peregrine 
Prolix, whom we have already quoted, and may 
perchance again — is a strong infusion of fashion, 
an animal substance, the quality of which can- 
not be precisely ascertained, but is supposed to 
contribute greatly to its efficacy. This esteem- 
ed and magic ingredient, when submitted to the 
ordeal of analysis, is found always to vanish in 
smoke. There are less erudite, though not more 
merrj' doctors about than our most sage friend 
Prolix. 

The Salt Sulphur Spring's, three in num- 
ber, are about twenty-four miles from the White 
Sulphur, near Union, the capital of Monroe 
County. Like the White Sulphur, they are 
beautifully nestled in the lap of mountain ranges. 
The Springs are near the eastern base of Swope's 
Mountain. On the north, the Alleghany rises, 
■while Peter's Mountain extends on the south 
and east. 

The Salt Sulphur was discovered in 1S05, by 
Mr. Irwin Benson, while boring for salt water, 
which he was led to hope for bj' the fact that the 
spot had formerly been a favorite " lick" for 
deer and buflalo. The hotels and cottages at the 
Salt Sulphur will accommodate some400 guests. 
Every reasonable want may be satisfied here, 
whether it regards the interior creature com- 
forts, or the exterior seekings for the beautiful 
and curious in physical nature. If one is artisti- 
cal, he may sketch forever ; or if he is geologi- 
cal, or botanical, or conchological, he may fos- 
silize, or herbariumize, or cabinetize, to all eter- 
nity. 

The Blue Sulphur Spring-, in Green- 
brier County, is another sweet valley nook, 22 
miles west of the White Sulphur, 32 north by 
east from the Red Sulphur, and 13 from Lewis- 
burg. It is upon the turnpike road to Guyan- 
dotte, on the Ohio. 

The Blue Sulphur, 25 miles from the White 
Sulphur, was known long ago, first as a "lick," 



frequented by vast herds of deer and buffalo 
from the neighboring forests of Sewell's Moun- 
tain. Its geographical position is within the 
magic hill-circle of the great group of the West- 
ern Springs, enjoying all the healthful climates 
of that most salubrious of regions. 

There is, besides the cabins, a large brick hotel 
here, ISO feet long and three stories high, to 
which is added, on either side, a wing of stories, 
and 190 feet fafade, with piazzas through the 
entire length. The fountain is in the centre of a 
charming lawn, and is crowned, as usual, with a 
temple-shaped edifice. Here, as in the homes of 
all the sulphureous sisterhood of this region, the 
guest will find most hospitable care for all his 
wants — kind and liberal provision in all things 
being the common law of the land. 

The Bed Sulphur Springs, in the south- 
ern portion of Monroe County, are 42 miles 
below the White Sulphur, 17 from the Salt, 32 
from the Blue, and 39 from the Sweet. * The 
approach to the Springs is beautifully romantic 
and picturesque. Wending his way around a 
high mountain, the weary trav'eller is for a mo- 
ment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden 
view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet 
immediately beneath him. Continuing the cir- 
cuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, 
which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, 
to the entrance of a verdant glen, surrounded on 
all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of 
this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion 
of it, is about two hundred feet in width. Its 
course is nearly north for about one hundred 
and fifty yards, when it begins gradually to con- 
tract, and changes its direction to the north- 
west and west, until it terminates in a narrow 
point. This beautifully secluded Tempo is the 
chosen site of the village. The north-west por- 
tion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and 
shops of various sorts ; tlie southern portion, 
just at the base of the east and west mountains, 
is that upon which stand the various edifices for 
the accommodation of visitors. These buildings 
are spacious, and conveniently arranged, while 
the promenades, which are neatly enclosed by a 
white railing, are beautifully embellished, and 
shaded from the mid-day sun by indigenes of 
the forest, the large, umbrageous sugar-maple. 
The Spring is situated at the south-west point 
of the valley, and the water is collected into two 
white marble fountains, over which is thrown a 
substantial cover. * 

These Springs have been known and distin- 
guished as a watering-place for near fifty years. 
The improveiiients at the place are extensive 
and well-designed, combining elegance with 

* Huntt. . - 



VIEGINIA. 



159 



comfoi-t, and are 6ufS.oient for the accoromoda- 
tiou of 350 persons. 

The wixter of the Spring is clear and cool, its 
temperature being 54° Pahrenheit. 

The Sweet Springs are in the eastern part 
of Monroe County, 17 miles south-east of the 
White Sulphur and 22 from the Salt Sulphur. 
They have been known longer than any other 
mineral waters in Virginia, having been dis- 
covered as early as 1764, So long ago as 1774, 
these waters were analyzed by Bishop Madi- 
son, then the president of William and Mary 
College. 

The Sweet Springs lie in a lovely valley, five 
miles in length, and. between a mile and half a 
mile broad. The Alleghany Mountain bounds 
this Tempe on the north, and the Sweet Spring 
Mountain rises on the south. The hotel here is 
of noble extent, with its grand length of 250 feet, 
and its diniiig-hall of 100 feet. The Sweet 
Springs is one of the gayest places in this ^^■idc 
valley of mineral fountains ; and a visit hither is 
usually the crowning excursion of the Spring 
season, the jolly breakdown of the ball. 

The Ked Sweet Springs are a mile only 
from the Sweet Springs just mentioned, on the 
way to the White Sulphur. This water is 
chalybeate, and a powerful agent in cases re- 
quiring a tonic treatment. The landscape here 
is most agreeable. A mile and a half from the 
Sweet Springs are the admired Beaver-dam 
Falls. 

THERMAL WATERS. 

The "Warm Springs are in Bath County, 
about 170 miles, nearly west, on the great Spring 
Route, from Staunton, or points further west on 
the Virginia Central Railway by the Hot and 
White Sulphur to the Ohio River, at Guyan- 
dotte. They are situated in a delightful valley, 
between lofty hill ranges. Fine views are open- 
ed all about on the Warm Spring Mountain. 
From the " Gap," where the road crosses, and 
from " the Rook," 2,700 feet above tide water, 
the display is deservedly famous. 

Sot Springs. Five miles removed from 
the Warm Springs (Bath County) at the inter- 
section of two narrow valleys, are the Hot 
Springs. The scenery here, though very agree- 
able, as is that of all the region round, is not 
especially striking. The accommodations for 
guests, however, are as admirable as elsewhere ; 
and the waters are not less serviceable. 

The Bath Alum S-prings are at the east- 
ern base of the Warm Spring Mountain, five 
miles east of the W.arm Springs, 47 miles east of 
the White Sulphur, and 45 west of Staunton. 
The valley of the Bath Alum is a cosy glen of 



1,000 acres, shut in, upon the east, by McClung's 
Ridge ; on the south-east, by Sbaycr's Moun- 
tain ; on the west, by the Piney Ridge ; and on 
the south-west by Little Piney. 

The Rockbridge Alum Springs are in 
Rockbridge County, on the main road from Lex- 
ington to the Warm Springs, 17 miles from the 
first and 22 from the second point. The valley 
in which they are found lies below the North 
Mountain on the east, and the Mill Mountain on 
the west. 

The Fauquier "White Sulphur, in Fau- 
quier County, are 56 miles only from Washing- 
ton, and about 40 from Fredericksburg. Take 
the Orange and Alexandria Railway from Alex- 
andria, 41 miles, to Warrenton Junction, thence, 
nine miles, by Branch to Wai-renton, and you are 
close by. Take the Virginia Central Railway 
from Richmond, thence deilect at Gordonsville, 
on the Orange and Alexandria road, to Warren- 
ton Junction ; thence, as before, to Warrenton, 
by Branch road. Distance from Richmond 132 
miles. 

Jordan's White Sulphur. These Springs 
are in Frederick County, five miles from Win- 
chester, and one mile and a half from Stephen- 
son Depot, on the Winchester and Potomac Rail- 
way. Distance from Harper's Ferry 2S|, from 
Baltimore (Baltimore and Ohio Railway to Har- 
per's Ferry) 116^ miles. 

The Shannondale Springs are in Jeffer- 
son County, five miles and a half from Charles- 
ton, a point on, the railway from Harper's Ferry 
to Winchester. Distance to Charleston from 
Harper's Ferry, 10 miles ; from Baltimore (Balti- 
more and Ohio Railway) 92 miles. 

The Berkeley Springs, in Bath, Morgan 
County, are two miles and a half from Sir John's 
Depot, a point on the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
way, 130 miles west of Baltimore. This is a very 
ancient and distinguished resort, esteemed and 
frequented by Washington before the Revolu- 
tion Strother's Hotel is a house to linger at 
as long as possible. O'Farrell's Hotel is another 
and a good house here. 

The Capon Springs are 23 miles south- 
west of Winchester, at the base of the North 
Mountain. Take the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
waj', from Baltimore to Harper's Ferry, 82 
miles ; thence, the Potomac and Winchester, 32 
miles, to Winchester ; thence by stage ; or take 
the Orange and Alexandria road, from Alexan- 
dria, 27 miles, to Manassus Station and the Man- 
assus Gap Railway, 61 miles more, to Strasburg. 

Healing Springs, Bath County. These 
thermal waters lie in a pleasant valley of eight 
or ten miles extent, between the Wanu Spring 
Mountain on the east, and the Valley Motmtaia 
on the west. In the neighborhood is the fip" 



160 



VIEGINIA. 



cascade, from which this locality of the southern 
group of the Healing Springs (here particularly 
referred to) derives its name of FalliDg Spring 
Vallej'. 

Dibrell's Spring: is on the main road from 
Lynchlnirg to the White Sulphur, 19 miles west, 
hy a direct road from the K"atur;il Bridge, or 28 
miles thence, via Buchanan. It is in the extreme 
north-western part of Botetourt County, SO miles 
east of the Alleghanies, and at the base of Gor- 
don Mountain. 

Eawley's Spring-s are in Rockingham 
County, upon the southern elope of the North 
Mountain, 1:^ miles from Ilarrisburg, and 120 
miles north-east of the White Sulphur. 

Grayson's S^ilpliur are west of the Blue 
Ridge, in Carroll County, 20 miles south of 
Wytheville, on the New River— a region of re- 
markable natural beauty. 

The Alleg'hany Spring's are in Montgom- 
ery County, on the south fork of the Roanoke 
River, 10 miles east of Christiansburg, on the 
Virginia and Tennessee Railway. From Rich- 
mond to Christiansburg, 210 miles west ; from 
Lynohburgh, 86 miles. 

Pulaski AKim Spring, in Pulaski Coun- 
ty, north-west, on Little Water Creek, 10 miles 
from Newbern, and seven miles, in a direct line, 
from the Virginia and Tennessee Railway. 

New London Alum is in the County of 
Campbell, 10 miles south-west of Lynchburg. 
(See Lynchburg, for route thither.) 

The Hug'uenot Spring-s is a watering- 
place in Powhattan County, 17 miles from Rich- 
mond. Take the Richmond and Danville Rail- 
way to the Springs Station, about 10 miles, 
thence by good omnibuses or stages. A pleasant 
escnrsion from Richmond. 

There are many other mineral fountains in 
Virginia discovered and undiscovered. We have 
mentioned in our catalogue all of much resort ; 
and many more than the visitor can explore in 
one short summer. 

The Natural Bridg-e is in Rockbridge 
County, in Western Virginia, 63 miles from the 
White Sulphur Springs. From Washington, the 
traveller hither may take the Orange and Alex- 
andria Railway to (jordonsville; on the Virginia 
Central and the Central to Millboro' ; and thence 
by stage. From Richmond or other points by 
railway to Lynchburg ; and thence by canal 
packet thirty-five miles to the bridge. In the 
pleasant book of Virginia Letters, upon which 
we have already freely drawn. Peregrine Prolix 
thus records the story of his visit to the Natural'. 
Bridge : 

" Every bod}' in this vicinity -will tell you that 
the distance from Lexington to the Natural 
Bridge is 12 miles ; but the shortest route is 14 



miles, six of which being supposed to be impas- 
sable in consequence of the superabundance of 
rain. The driver of my hack, by name Oliver (a 
melanthrope of great skill in his art), pursued a 
route three miles longer. Not being aware of 
the inconceivable badness of the road, and being 
naturally averse to early rising, I did not leave 
Lexington until nine o'clock. Oliver soon hor- 
rified me by turning into the road we traveUed 
last evening, and informing me we must pursue 
it for six miles, and then take a cross-road for 
three miles to get into the direct route. This 
was bad news ; for in a region of bad roads, the 
cross-roads are the worst, and are as bad as the 
cross women. And, indeed, until within two 
miles of the bridge, the road is so pre-eminently 
abominable, that it has won to itself the title of 
purgatory, and like that uncomfortable place, 
when once in, it requires much whipping to get 
you otit. 

" Notwithstanding the difficulties of mud and 
mire, rut and rock, hill and hollow, the skilful 
Oliver landed me safe at the house near the 
bridge at two p. m. A melanthropic guide con- 
ducted me immediately down a winding rocky 
path to the bottom of the deep chasm, in which 
flows the little stream called Cedar Creek, and 
across the top of which, from brink to brink, 
there still extends an enormous rocky stratum, 
that time and gravity have moulded into a grace- 
ful arch. The bed of Cedar Creek is more than 
two hundred feet below the surface of the plain, 
and the sides of the enormous chasm, at the 
bottom of which the water flows, are composed 
of solid rock, maintaining a position almost per- 
pendicular. These adamantine walls do not 
seem to me to be water-worn, but suggested the 
idea of an enormous cavern, that in remote ages 
may have been covered for miles by the continu- 
ation of that stratum of which all that now re- 
mains is the arch of the Natural Bridge. I do 
verily believe that this stupendous object is the 
ruin of a cave, one of those antres vast, in which 
our limestone regions abound, and which perhaps 
existed previous to the upheaving of our conti- 
nent, and was tenanted by Naiads, Tritons, and 
other worthies of the deep. 

" The first sensation of the beholder is one of 
double astonishment ; first, at the absolute sub- 
limity of the scene ; next, at the total inadequacy 
of the descriptions he has read, and the pictures 
he has seen, to produce in his mind the faintest 
idea of the reality. The great height gives the 
arch an air of grace and lightness that must be 
seen to be felt, and the power of speech is for a 
moment lost in contemplating the immense di- 
mensions of the surrounding objects. The mid- 
dle of the arch is fortj'-flve feet in perpendicular 
thickness, which increases to sixty at its June- 



VIRGINIA. 



161 



ture -with tbo vast abutments. Its top, which is 
covered with soil supporting shrubs of various 
sizes, is two hundred and ten feet high. It is 
sixty feet wide, and its span is almost ninety 
feet. Across the top passes a public road, and 
being in the same plane with the neighboring 
country, you may cross it in a coach •without be- 
ing aware of the interesting pass. There are 
several forest trees of large dimensions growing 
near the edge of the creek directly under the 
arch, which do not nearly reach its lowest j)art. 

" The most imposing view is from about sixty 
yards below the bridge, close to the edge of the 
creek ; from that position the arch appears 
thinner, lighter, and loftier. From the edge of 
the creek at some distance above the bridge, you 
look at the thicker side of the arch, which fi'om 
this point of view approaches somewhat to the 
Gothic. A little above the bridge, on the west- 
ern side of the creek, the wall of rock is broken 
into buttress-like masses, which rise almost por- 
pendJcularly to a height of nearly two hundred 
and fifty feet, terminating in separate pinnacles 
which overlook the bridge. It requires a strong 
head (perchance a thick skull) to stand on one of 
these narrow eminences and look into the yawn- 
ing gulf below. 

" When you are exactly under the arch and 
cast your glances upwards, the space appears 
immense ; and the symmetry of the ellipsoidal 
concave formed by the arch and the gigantic 
walls from which it springs, is wonderfully 
pleasing. From this position the views in both 
directions are sublime and striking from the im- 
mense height of the rocky walls, stretching 
away in various curves, covered in some places 
by the drapery of the forest, green and graceful, 
and in others without a bramble or a bush, bare 
and blue. 

" Reader, do not allow the coolness of the 
neighbors, or the heat of the weather, or the 
badness of the roads, or the goodness of your 
equipage, or the inertia of your disposition, or 
the gravity of your baggage, or the levity of 
your purse, or the nolition of your womankind, 
or any other creature of any other kind, to pre- 
vent you from going to see the Natural Bridge ; 
you never saw its like before and never will you 
look upon its like again." 

Th.e Peaks of Otter. These famous moun- 
tain heights are in the same region as the Nat- 
ural Bridge. They lie in the county of Bedford, 
10 miles from the village of Liberty, and 35 miles 
from Lynchburg — railway from Richmond to 
Lynchburg, and thence by stage. 

The summits of the Pe.aks of Otter are about 
two miles apart. The northern mountain rises 
4,200 feet above the plain, and 5,307 above the 



sea. It is the southern or conical peak which is 
most often ascended. 

" After riding about a quarter of a mile," says 
a visitor to these peaks, " we came to the point 
beyond which horses cannot be taken, and dis- 
mounting our steeds, commenced ascending on 
foot • the way was very steep, and the day so 
warm that we had to halt often to take breath. 
As we approached the summit, the trees were all 
of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and gnarled 
by the storms of that high region. There were 
also a few blackberry bushes, bearing their fruit 
long after the season had passed below. A few 
minutes longer brought us to where the trees 
ceased to grow ; but a huge mass of rocks, piled 
wildly on top of each other, finished the termi- 
nation of the peak. Our path lay for some dis- 
tance around the base of it, and under the over- 
hanging battlements, and rather descending for 
a while, until it led to a part of the pile which 
could with some effort be scaled. There was no 
ladder, nor any artificial steps, and the only means 
of ascent was by climbing over the successive 
rocks. "We soon stood upon the wild platform 
of one of nature's most magnificent observato- 
ries, isolated and apparently above all things 
else terrestrial, and looking down upon and over 
a beautiful, variegated, and at the same time 
grand, wild, wonderful, and almost boundless 
panorama. Indeed, it was literally boundless, 
for there was a considerable haze resting upon 
some parts of the ' world below,' so that, in the 
distant horizon, the earth and sky seemed insen- 
sibly to mingle with each other. I had been 
there before. I remember, when a boy of little 
more than ten years old, to have been taken to 
that spot, and how my unpractised nerves for- 
sook me at the sulDlimity of the scene. 

" On this day it was as new as ever ; as wild, 
wonderful and sublime as if I had never before 
looked from those isolated rocks, or stood on 
that awful summit. On one side, towards East- 
ern Virginia, lay a comparatively level country 
in the distance, bearing strong resemblance to 
the ocean ; on the other hand were ranges of 
high mountains, interspersed with cultivated 
spots, and then terminating in piles of moun- 
tains, following in successive ranges, until they 
were lost also in the haze. Above and below, 
the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies run oft' in long 
lines ; sometimes relieved hy knolls and peaks, 
and in one place above us making a graceful 
curve, and then again running off in a different 
line of direction. 

" Very near us stood the rounded top of the 
other peak, looking like a sullen sentinel for its 
neighbor. 

" We paused in silence for a time. We were 



162 



VIEGINIA. 



there almost cut off from the world below, stand- 
ing where it was fearful even to look down. It 
was more hazy than at the time of my last visit, 
but not so much so as to destroy tho interest of 
the scene. 

" There was almost a sense of pain at the still- 
ness which seemed to reign. We could hear the 
flappings of the wings of the hawks and the buz- 
zards, as they seemed to be gathering a new im- 
petus after sailing through one of their circles in 
the air below us. North of us, and on the other 
side of the Valley of Virginia, were the moun- 
tains near Lexington, just as seen from that 
beautiful village — tho Jump, ISTorth, and House 
mountains succeeding each other. They were 
familiar with a thousand associations of our 
childhood, sseming mysteriously, when away 
from the spot, to bring my early home before 
me — not in imagination such as had often 
haunted me when I first left to find another in 
the world, but in substantial reality. Further 
on down the valley, and at a great distance, was 
tbe top of a large mountain, which was thought 
to be the Great jSTorth Mountain, away down in 
Shenandoah County. I am afraid to say how 
far off. Intermediate between these mountains, 
and extending opposite and far above us, was 
tho Valley of Virginia, with its numerous and 
highly cultivated farms. Across this valley, 
and in the distance, lay the remote ranges of the 
Alleghany, and mountains about, and, I suppose, 
beyond, the "White Sulphur Springs. Nearer us, 
and separating Eastern and Western Virginia, 
was the Blue Kidge, more than ever showing 
the propriety of its cognomen of the ' back bone,' 
and on which we could distinctly see two zigzag 
turnpikes, the one leading to Fincastle and the 
other to Buchanan, and over which latter we 
had travelled a few days before. With the spj-- 
glass we could distinguish the houses in the vil- 
lage of Fincastle, some twenty-five or thirty 
miles off, and tho road leading to the town. 
Turning towards the direction of our morning's 
ride, wo had beneath us Bedford County, with 
its smaller mountains, farms and farmhouses, 
the beautiful village of Liberty, the county roads, 
and occasionally a mill-pond, reflecting tho sun 
like a sheet of polished silver. The houses on 
the hill at Lynchburg, twenty-five or thirty 
miles distant, are distinctly visible on a clear 
day, and also Wilhs' mountain, away down in 
Buckingham County. The tourist may take a 
carriage from Liberty or at Buchanan, to the 
Peaks. A fine well-graded turnpike leads 
thence and a good hotel is at the base of the 
mountain. 

Weir's Cave. This wonderful place, scarce- 
ly inferior in its mysterious grandeur to the cele- 
brated Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, is in the 



north-eastern corner of Augusta County, Va., 17 
miles from Staunton (on the Central Eailway), 16 
miles from Waynesboro', 8 miles from Mount 
Sidney, 14 miles from Harrisburg, and 32 from 
Charlottesville and the University of Virginia. 
— Take the Central Railway from Richmond, or 
the Orange and Alexandria from Washington 
City to Gordonsville and the Central Railway 
onward to Staunton : thence by stage 17 miles to 
the Cave. 

Weir's Cave (sometimes written Weijer^s'), 
was named after Bernard Weyer, who discover- 
ed it in 1S04, while in chase of a wild animal 
who fled thither for escape. M.any of the count- 
less apartments in this grand subterranean castle 
are of exquisite beauty — others again are magni- 
ficent in their grand extent. Washington Hall, 
the largest chamber, is no less than 250 feet in 
length. A traveller visiting the cave on the oc- 
casion of an annual illumination, thus describes 
this noble apartment : 

" There is a fine sheet of rock- work running 
up the centre of this room, and giving it tho 
aspect of two separate and noble galleries, till 
you look above, where j'ou observe the partition 
rises only twenty feet towards the roof, and 
leaves the fine arch expanding over your head 
untouched. There is a beautiful connection 
here standing out in the room, which certainly 
has the form and drapery of a gigantic statue ; 
it bears the name of the Nation's Hero ; and the 
whole place is filled with these projections— ap- 
pearances which excite the imagination by sug- 
gesting resemblances, and leaving them unfin- 
ished. The general efl'ect, too, was perhaps in- 
describable. The fine perspective of this room, 
four times the length of an ordinary church ; 
the numerous tapers, when near you, so encum- 
bered by deep shadows as to give only a dim, 
rehgious light, and when at a distance, appearing 
in their various attitudes like twinkling stars on 
a deep, dark heaven ; the amazing vaulted roof 
spread over you, with its carved and knotted 
surface, to which the streaming lights below in 
vain endeavored to convey their radiance ; to- 
gether with the impression that you had made 
so deep an entrance, and were so entirely cut off 
from the living world and ordinary things, pro- 
duces an effect which, perhaps, the mind can 
receive but once, and will retain for ever." 

" Weir's Cave," says the same writer, " is, in 
my judgment, one of the great natural wonders 
of this new world, and for its eminence in its 
own class, deserves to be ranked with the Natu- 
ral Bridge and Niagara, while it is far less known 
than either. Its dimensions, by the most direct 
course, are more than 1,600 feet, andby the more 
winding paths twice that length ; and its objects 
are remarkable for their variety, formation and 



viEamiA. 



163 



beauty. In both respects, it -will, I think, com- 
pare, without injury to itself, with the celebrated 
Grotto of Aiitiparos. For myself, I acknowledge 
the spectacle to have been most interesting ; but 
to be so, it must be illuminated as on this ooca- 
eioii. I had thought that this circumstance 
might give the Avhole a toyish effect ; but the in- 
fluence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these immense 
caverns is only such as to reveal the objects, 
without disturbing the solemn and sublime ob- 
scurity which sleeps on every thing. Scarcely 
any scenes can awaken so many passions at once, 
and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, 
surprise, admiration, and delight, by turns and 
together arrest and possess you. I have had 
before, from other objects, one simple impression 
made with greater power ; but I never had so 
many impressions made, and with so niuch 
power, before. If the interesting and the awful 
arc the elements of the sublime, here sublimity 
reigns, as in her own domain, in dai'kness, 
silence, and deeps profound." 

Madison's Cave is within a few hundred 
yards of Weir's. It is thus described Mr. Jef- 
ferson, in his " Kotes on Virginia :" 

"It is on the north side of the Blue Ridge, 
near the intersection of the Rockingham and 
Augusta line with the south fork of the southern 
river Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 
feet perpendicular height, the ascent of which 
on one side is so steep, that you may pitch a 
V biscuit from its summit into the river which 
waslies its base. The entrance of the cave is in 
this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It 
extends into the earth about 300 feet, branching 
into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a 
little, but more generally descending, and at 
length terminates in two different places at 
basins of water of unknown extent, and which 
I should judge to be nearly on a level with the 
water of the river ; however, I do not think the3' 
are formed by retluent water from that, because 
they are never turbid ; because they do not rise 
and fall in correspondence with that in times of 
flood, or of drought, and because the water is 
always cool. It is probably one of the many 
reservoirs with which the interior parts of the 
earth are supposed to abound. The vault of this 
cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet 
high, through which water is continually perco- 
lating. This, trickling down the sides of the 
cave, hag encrusted them over in the form of 
elegant drapery ; and dripping from the top of 
the vault generates on that, and on the base be- 
low, stalactites of a conical form, some of which 
have met and formed massive columns." 

The Blowing- Cave is on the stage road 
between the Rockbridge and the Bath Alum 
Springs, one mile west of the village of Milboro.' 



It is in a high ledge near the bank of the Cow 
Pasture River. The entrance to the Cave is 
semi-circular and about four feet high, elevated 
30 or 40 feet above the road below. When tho 
internal and external atmosphere is the same, 
there is no perceptible current issuing from it. 
In intense hot weather, the air comes out with 
so much force as to prostrate the weeds at tho 
entrance. In intense cold weather, the air draws 
in. There is a Flowing and Ebbing Spring on 
the same stream with the Blowing Cave, which 
supplies water-]power for a grist-mill, a distillery 
and a tannery. It flows irregularly. When it 
commences, the water bursts out in a body, as 
if let loose from a dam. Mr. Jefferson called 
this a Syplaon Fountain. There are two others 
of the kind in Virginia — one in Brooks Gap, in 
Rockingham County, and the other near the 
mouth of the North Holston. 

Tlie Hawk's Kest, sometimes called Mar- 
shall's Pillar, is on New Ri^•er, in Fayette 
County, a few rods only from the road leading 
from Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to the White 
Sulphur Springs— 96 miles from Guyandotte, and 
64 miles from the Springs. It is an immense 
irdlar of rock, with a vertical height of 1,000 feet 
above the bed of the river. Thus writes a foreign 
tourist 01 this impressive picture : 

" You leave the road by a little by-path, and 
after pursuing it for a short distance, the whole 
scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how shall 
we describe it? The great charm of tlie whole 
is connected with the point of sight, which is 
the finest imaginable. You come suddenly to a 
spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. It pro- 
jects on the scene, and is so small as to give 
standing only to some half dozen persons. It 
has on its head an old picturesque pine ; and it 
breaks away at your feet abruptly and in per- 
pendicular lines, to a depth of more than 1,000 
feet. On this standing, which, by its elevated 
and detached character, affects you like tho 
monument, the forest rises above and around 
you. Beneath and before you is spread a lovely 
valley. A peaceful river glides down it, reflect- 
ing, like a mirror all the lights of heaven, wash- 
es the foot of the rocks on which you are stand- 
ing, and then winds away into another valley at 
your right. ' The trees of the wood, in all their 
variety, stand out on the verdant bottoms, with 
their heads in the sun, and casting their shadows 
at your feet, but so diminished as to look more 
like the pictures of the things than the things 
tliemselves. The green hills rise on either hand 
and all around, and give completeness and beauty 
to the scene ; and beyond these appears the gray 
outline of the more distant mountains, bestowing 
grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It 
is exquisite. It conveys to you the idea of per- 



164 



VIEGIlSriA. — XORTH CAEOLIXA. 



feet solitude. The hand of man, the foot of man, 
Beem never to have touched that valley. To 
you, though placed iu the midst of it, it seems 
altogether inaccessible. You long to stroll along 
the margin of thoce sweet waters, and repose 
under the shadows of those beautiful trees ; but 
it looks impossible. It is soUtude, but of amost 
soothing, not of an appalling character, where 
sorrow might learn to forget her griefs, and folly 
begin to be wise and happy." 

The Ice Mountain ia a remarkable natural 
curiosity, in the county of Hampshire. It is 
upon the North River (eastern bank), 26 miles 
north-west of Winchester. May be reached 
from Baltimore by Baltimore and Ohio Railway 
to Harper's Ferry, by railway thence to Win- 
chester, from Winchester by stage. 

The Ice Mountain rises 500 feet above the 
river. " The west side, for a quarter of a mile," 
says Mr. Howe, in his history of Virginia, " is 
covered with a mass of loose stone, of a light 
color, which reaches down to the bank of the 
river. By removing the loose stone, fine crystal 
ice can ahv.ays be found in the Avarmest days of 
summer. It has been discovered even as late as 
the 15th of September ; but never in October, 
although it may existthroughout the entire year, 
and be found, if the rocks were excavated to a 
sufiicicnt depth. The body of rocks where the 
ice is found is subject to the full rays of the sun, 
from nine o'clock in the morning until sunset. 
The sun does not have the efi'ect of melting the 
ice as much as continued rains. At the base of 
the mountain is a spring of water, colder by 
many degrees than spring water generally is." 

The Salt Pond is a charming lake, on the 
summit of Salt Pond Moiintain, one of the high- 
est peaks of the Alleghany. It is in Giles 
Countj", 10 miles east of Parisburg and five miles 
from the Ilygeian Springs. This Pond (we again 
quote from Mr. Howe) " is about a mile long, and 
one-third of a mile wide. At its termination it 
is dammed by a huge pile of rooks, over which it 
nms ; but whicli once passed through the fissures 
only. In the spring and summer of 180-4, im- 



mense quantities of leaves and other rubbish 
washed in and filled up the fissures, since which 
it has risen full 25 feet. Previous to that time, 
it was fed by a fine large spring at its head ; that 
then disappeared, and several small springs now 
flow into it at its upper end. When first known, 
it was the resort of vast numbers of elk, bufl'alo, 
deer, and other wild animals, for drink." The 
waters of this Pond have not, despite its name, 
any saline taste ; on the contrary it abounds in 
fine fresh trout and other fish. 

Gaudy's Castle (Howe) "was so named 
from liaving been the retreat of an early settler, 
when pursued by the Indians. It is the frag- 
ment of a mountain, in the shape of a half cone, 
with a very narrow base, which rises from the 
banks of the Capon to the height of about 500 
feet, and presents a sublime and majestic ap- 
pearance. Caudifs Castle, as also the Tea Table, 
and the Hanging Hocks, mentioned below, may 
all be visited from the Capon Springs. 

"The Tea Table is about ten miles from 
Gaudy's Castle, in a deep rugged glen, three or 
four miles east of the Capon. It is about four 
feet in height, and the same in diameter. From 
the top issues a clear stream of water, which 
fiows over the brim on all sides, and forms a 
fountain of exquisite be.auty. 

"The Hangingr Kocks are about four 
miles north of Romney. There the Wappatomka 
River has cut its way through the mountain of 
about 500 feet in height. The boldness of the 
rocks and the wildncss cf the scene surprise the 
beholder. 

"A bloody battle," says tradition, "was once 
fought at the Hanging Rocks, between contend- 
ing parties of the CatawVia and Delaware Indi- 
ans, and it is believed that several hundred of 
the latter were slaughtered. Indeed, the signs 
now to be seen at this place exhibit striking 
evidence of the fact. There is a row of Indian 
graves between the rocks and public road, along 
the inargin of the river, of from 60 to 70 yards 
in length. It is believed that very few of the 
Delawares escaped." 



NOETH CAPwOLINA. 

IToRTH Carolina.— Much less romantic interest possesses the public mind, though no* justly, 
in regard to this State, than almost any other of the Old Thirteen. 

The history of the region does not, to be sure, present many very brilliant points, although at- 
tempts to colonize it were made at a very early day — as long ago aa 15S5-9, and by Sir Walter 
Raleigh — and though the people were engaged, like their neiglibors, in bloody struggles with the 
Indian tribes. Tct the State did memorable service in the Revolution, and especially inbcingthe 
first publicly and solemnly to renounce allegiance to the British crown, which she did in the famous 



ITOETH CAEOLINA. 165 

Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence, May 20tli, IV'iS— more than a year before the similar 
formal assertion of the other States. 

In pioturesque attraction, the State ia popularly considered to be wholly destitute ; an impres- 
sion which results from an erroneous estimate of her topography, which travellers in the course 
of yeai'a have made, from the uninteresting forest travel in the eastern portion, traversed by the 
great railway thoroughfare from the Northern to the Southern States ; the only highway until 
within very late years, and to this day the only one very much in use. 

The Pine, or Eastern part of North Carolina, stretching sixty miles inland, is a vast plain, 
sandy, and overrun with interminable forests of pine. Yet this wilderness is not without points 
and impressions of interest to the tourist, more particularly when it is broken, as it often is, by 
great stretches of dank marsh, sometimes opening into mystical-looking lakes, as on the little 
Dismal Swamp, lying between Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds, and in the Great Dismal Swamp, 
which the State shares with Virginia. Then in these woods we may watch the process of 
the gathering of the sap of the pines, for those famous staple manufactures, " tar, pitch, and 
turpentine." 

The coast, too, of North Carolina is one of the most celebrated on the western borders of the 
Atlantic — the one most watched and feared by mariners and aU voyagers, that upon which the 
dreaded capes Hatteras and Lookout and Fear are found. 

While the innumerable bays and shoals and islands are thus cautiously avoided by the passing 
mariners, they are as eagerly sought by the fisherman and the sportsman. Immense quantities of 
shad and herring and other flsh are taken here, and the estuaries of the rivers and the bays are 
among the favorite resorts of wild fowl of every species ; making this coast scarcely less attractive 
to the sportsman, than is the Chesapeake Bay and the shore of Long Island. 

The interior of the State is a rude, hilly country, which, though it is not at present, may yet be, 
softened into the blooming beauty of New England. Beyond to the westward, lies the great moun- 
tain district, which, when it comes to bo better known, as the railways now approaching it from 
all sides promise that it soon will be, will place the State in public estimation among the most 
strikingly pioturesque portions of the Union. Two great ridges of the Alleghanies traverse this 
grand region, some of their peaks rising to the noblest heights, and one of them reaching a greater 
altitude than any summit east of the Rocky Mountains. Wild brooks innumerable and of the 
richest beauty, water-falls of wonderful delight, and valleys lovely enough for loveliest dreams, are 
seen in this yet almost unknown land. We shall lead our traveller thither anon ; after a little 
longer gUmpse at the general characteristics of the country ; at the facilities for locomotion 
which are at command, and after a brief visit to places and scenes in the eastern and middle sec- 
tions of the State. 

Mineral products of great variety and value are found in North Carolina, as in the neighboring 
mountain districts of South Carolina and Georgia. Until the discovery of the auriferous lands of 
California, this was the most abundant gold tract in the United States. The mines here of this 
monarch of metals have been profitably worked for many years. At the branch mint at Char- 
lotte, in the mining region, gold was coined, between and including the years 1838 and 1853, to the 
value of no less than $3,790,033 ; the highest annual product being $396,734, in the year 1852. 

The copper lands of the State, says Professor Jackson, are unparalleled in richness. Coal, too, 
both bituminous and anthracite, is found here in great abundance, and of the finest quality. 
Iron ore also exists throughout the mountain districts. Limestone and Freestone may be had in 
inexhaustible supply. Marl is abundant in all the counties on the coast, and silver, lead, man- 
ganese, salt, and gypsum have been discovered. 

The rivers of North Carolina have no very marked picturesque character, except the mountain 
streams in the west, where, besides other charming waters, the shores of the Beach Road for forty 
miles, are unsurpassed in bold and changeful beauty. The greater number of the rivers run from 
200 to 400 miles, in a south-east direction through the State to the Atlantic. A few small streams 
empty into the Tennessee. The Roanoke and the Chowan extend from Virginia to Albemarle 



166 



ETOETH OAEOLINA. 



Bound. The Cape Fear River traverses the State and enters the sea near the southern extremity 
of the State. Travellers hy the old steamer route from Wilmington to Charleston, will remomher 
the passage of this river from the former place, 25 miles to its mouth at Smithville. 

" Quel beau pays ! " exclaimed a visitor from Guadaloupc, as he entered the stream from the 
sea, and looked out upon its white sandy shores luxuriant with the trailing foliage of the live- 
oak. 

" ' Quel beau pays I' " echoed the captain of the incoming barque, in surprise ; " do you, just 
from the grand mountains and valleys of Guadaloupe, call this miserable flat region a beautiful 
country?" 

" For that very reason, men ami. It is exactly because I have so long seen only mountains and 
valleys that these beautifully wooded plains, so new to my sight, and in such direct contrast with 
all I have ever gazed upon before, charm me so much. Mon Dieu, quel beau pays I " 

The reader will understand our anecdote according to the teachings of his own experience. 

The Keuse and the famous Tar Rivers come from the north to Pamlico Sound. The Tadkin 
and the Catawba enter South Carolina, and are there called, one the Great Pedee, and the other the 
"Wateree. These and the other rivers of this State are so greatly obstructed at their mouths by 
sand banks, and above by rapids and falls, that their waters are not navigable for any great dis- 
tance, or by any other than small craft. Vessels drawing ten or twelve feet of water ascend the 
Cape Fear River as far as "Wilmington, and steamboats yet beyond to Fayetteville. Steamboats 
sail up the Neuse 120 miles, to Waynesboro', up the Tar 100 mUes, to Tarborough, the Roanoke 
120 miles, to Halifax, and up the Chowan 75 miles. 



Railways.— The Wilmington and Weldon 
road, 162 miles long, traverses the entire breadth 
of the State, in the eastern portion, from Weldon 
through Halifax, Brattleborough, Rooky Mount, 
Joyners, Wilson, ZSTahuata, Goldsborough Mt., 
Mount Olive, Faison's, Strickland's, Teachey's, 
Washington, and Bordeaux, to Wilmington. 
It is a link in the great mail route from the 
Northern to the Southern cities. Railways .also 
diverge from the above line to Raleigh. The 
Raleigh and Gaston road from Weldon, 97 miles, 
and the jS"orth CaroUna road, from Goldsborough, 
48 miles. This road continues on from Raleigh, 
through Hillsborough, Graham, Greensborough, 
Lexington, Salisbury, and intermediate stations, 
to Charlotte, 175 miles beyond Raleigh. At 
Charlotte it unites with the railway system of 
South Carolina. 

The Raleigh and Gaston railway extends 
(with connecting links) from Weldon, on the 
Great Northern and Southern mail route, 97 
miles, to Raleigh. 

The Roanoke Valley road deflects from the 
Raleigh and Gaston, and unites "ndth the Vir- 
ginia routes. 

The North Carolina and N. C. Central Rail- 
ways extend from Goldsborough, on the Great 
Northern and Southern route, to Raleigh, 4S 
miles, and thence north-west via Hillsboro', Gra- 
ham, etc., to Greenborough ; thence southwardly 
to Charlotte, uniting with the South Carolina rail- 
ways. Distance from Raleigh to Charlotte 175 
miles. 



Other routes are now in progress, which will 
traverse all the western parts of the State, and 
unite the eastern and middle districts, at many 
points, with the railways of Tennessee and th» 
Great West. 

Ealeigh..— Hotels :— 

Raleigh, from New York, by the Great South- 
ern line of railway, through Philadelphia, Balti- 
more, Washington, and Richmond, to Weldon, 
N. C, thence by the Raleigh and Gaston Rail- 
way. Distance from Washington, 286 miles ; 
from Weldon, 97 miles. From Charleston, S. 
C, bj'the great mail route, to Goldsborough, N. 
C.,on the Wilmington and Weldon link ; thence 
by the North Carolina Central Railway. 

Raleigh, the capital of North Carolina, is situ- 
ated a little north-east of the centre of the State, 
near the Neuse River. It is a pleasant little 
city, on a high and healthful position. Union 
Square is an open area of ten acres, occupying a 
centre, on the sides of which are the principal 
streets. The State House, which is Da this 
square, is one of the most imposing of the Capi- 
tols of the United States. It is built of granite, 
after the model of the Parthenon, with massive 
columns and a grand dome. The former State 
House was destroyed by fire in 1831, and with it 
the celebrated statue of Washington by Canova. 
The State Lunatic Asylum is here, and the 
North Carolina Institution for the Deaf and 
Dumb. Population, 5,000. 



NOETH CAROLINA. 



167 



Wilraingrton.— Hotels :— 

Wilmington, the largest, and the chief com- 
niorcial city of North Carolina, is in the south- 
eastern extremity of the State, upon the Cape 
Fear River, 34: miles from the sea. Reacbed 
from New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, etc., 
hy the Great Southern route, upon which it is a 
prominent point. Travellers from Charleston 
aild New Orleans formerly took the steamer here 
for a coast voyage as far as Charleston ; now the 
route is continued hy the Manchester and Wil- 
mlugton railway to Kingsville, on the Columhia 
Branch of the South Carolina road. A more di- 
rect way to Charleston will be opened by the 
North-eastern railway, to deflect at a conve- 
nient point from the Wilmington and Manches- 
ter line. This is a busy place, full of manufac- 
turing and commercial life. It offers, however, 
no very great attractions to the traveller in quest 
of the picturesque, though it played a part in 
the drama of the Revolution. Major Craig took 
possession of the town in January, 1781, and occu- 
pied it until the surrender of Cornwallis. Popu- 
lation about 11,000. 

Newbern. — Hotels :— 

Newbem, a pleasant old town of about 5,000 
inhaliitants, is at the confluence of the Neuse 
and the Trent Rivers, midway on the Atlantic 
line of the State, 50 miles above Pamlico Sound. 
It is on the line of the Atlantic and North Caro- 
lina Railway, which extends from Goldsborough, 
on the Wilmington and Weldon link of the main 
southern route (N. Carolina Road) to Morehead 
City, opposite Beaufort. Distance from Golds- 
borough, 59 miles, from Morehead City, 34 miles. 

Fayetteville.— Hotels :— 

Fayetteville is a thriving place of some 8,000 
people. It is at the head of navigation, on Cape 
Fear River, 80 miles south of Raleigh, and 100 
miles above Wilmington. Reached at present 
on plank roads from Raleigh, and from the Wil- 
mington and Weldon railway. 

Cliarlotte.— Hotels :— 

Charlotte is one of the chief towns in the west- 
ern part of North Carolina. Reached from Ra- 
leigh by tEe North Carolina railway, 175 miles, 
and from Charleston and Columbia, 8. C, by the 
South Carolina and Columbia Branch, and the 
Charlotte and South Carolina railways ; from 
Columbia, 109 miles ; from Charleston, 237 miles. 
A plank road, 120 miles long, connects this town 
with Fayetteville. 



Charlotte is in the midst of the gold region of 
the State, and is the seat of a United States 
Branch Mint. Some interesting historical mem- 
ories are awakened at Charlotte. It was here 
that the patriots of Mecklenburg County assem- . 
bled in convention, in 1775, and boldly passed a 
series of resolutions, declaring themselves inde- 
pendent of the British Crown ; thus anticipating 
by a year the immortal Declaration of '76. The 
British troops occupied the town in 17S0, and for 
a little while it was the head-quarters of the 
American forces. Here General Greene took 
command of the Southern army from General 
Gates, fifty days after the departure of Corn- 
wallis. 

Battle of Guilford Court House.— 
The scene of this interesting event in the history 
of the American Revolution, is in the County of 
GuUford, in the north-western part of the State. 

THE MOUNTAIN REGION. 

No section of the United States is richer in 
beautiful landscape than is all the western part 
of North Carolina, traversed by some of the no- 
blest spurs of the Blue Ridge Turn, here, 
which way you will, every varying point pre- 
sents a picture of new and wonderful charm. 

Black Mountain, 20 miles north-east of 
Ashvillo, I'iscs to the magnificent height of 6,47G 
feet, and is thus the loftiest peak east of the 
Rocky Mountain ranges. The scene from its 
crown is of surpassing grandeur. 

Tlie Swannanoa Gap is a magnificent 
mountain pass, between Ashville and Morgan- 
town. The Falls of the Catawba are hard by. 

Tlie Hickory-N'ut Gap is another grand 
clove on the giant hills, rich in wonderful pic- 
tures of precipices and cascades. 

Pilot Mountain, in Burke County, is a 
bold peak, almost isolated in the midst of a com- 
paratively level region. In the olden time it was 
the landmark of the Indians in their forest wan- 
derings ; hence its present name. 

Tlie Hawk's Bill, in Burke County, is a 
stupendous projecting cliff, looking down 1,500 
feet upon the waters of a rushing river. 

The Table Kock, a few miles below tho 
Hawk's Bill, rises cone-shaped, 2,500 feet abovo 
the valley of the Catawba River. 

The Ginger Cake Hock, also in Burke 
County, is a singular pile, upon the summit of 
the Ginger Cake mountaiUj It is a natural 
stone structure, in the form of an inverted pyra- 
mid, 29 feet in height. It is crowned with a slab 
32 feet long and two feet thick, which projects 
half its length beyond the edge of the pyramid 
upon which it is so strangely poised. Though 
seeming just ready to fall, nothing could be more 



168 



NOETH OAEOLINA. — SOUTH OAEOLISrA. 



secure. A fine view down the dark ravine be- 
low is commanded at this point. 

Tile French. Broad River, in its wild 
mountain course of 40 miles, or more, from Asli- 
ville to the Tennessee line, abounds in admir- 
able scenes. It is a rapid stream, and in all its 
course lies deep down in mountain gorges^now 
foaming over its rooky loathway, and now sleep- 
ing, sullen and dark, at the base of huge preci- 
pitous cliffs. A fine higliway follows its banks, 
and often trepasses upon its waters, as it is 
crowded by the jealous overhanging cliffs. 
Near the Tennessee boundary, and close by the 
Warm Springs, this road lies in the shadow of 
the bold mountain precipices known as the 
Painted Eocks and the Chimneys. The Paint- 
ed Rocks have a perpendicular elevation of be- 
tween 200 and 300 feet. Their name comes 
from the Indian pictures yet to bo seen upon 
them. The chimneys are lofty clifis, broken at 
their summits into detached piles of rocks, bear- 
ing much the likeness of colossal chimneys, a 
fancy greatly improved by the fire-place-looking 
recesses at their base, and which serve as turn- 
outs in the narrow causeway. The picture em- 
bracing the angle in the river, beyond the Chim- 
ney Rocks, is especially fine. 

The Indian name of the French Broad is 



Tselica. Under this title, Mr. Simms has woven 
into beautiful verse a charming legend of the 
river. " The tradition of the Cherokees," he 
says, "asserts the existence of a siren in the 
French Broad, who implores the hunter to the 
stream, and strangles him in her embrace, or so 
infects him with some mortal disease, that ho 
invariably perishes." 

The Warm Spring's, across the river from 
the vicinage of the Painted Rocks, is a very 
pleasant and popular summer resort. The ex- 
cellent hotel here occupies a fine plateau, very 
grateful to the sight, in its contrast with the 
rugged character of the wild landscape all 
around. 

Eoiite.— To reach the mountain region of 
ISTorth Carolina, from the north, follow the great 
southern route from Washington via the Orange 
and Alexandria, the Virginia and Tennessee, 
and the East Tennessee and Virginia Railways, 
via Lynchburg. From Charleston, S. C, take 
the South Carolina railways to Spartanburg, 
and thence by stage to Ashville ; or railway 
lines through from Charleston, via Columbia, 
S. C, and Charlotte, IST. C, to Salisbury, on tho 
Noi-th Carolina Centi-al route, and thence, as 
before, by stage to Morgantown and Ashville. 



SOUTH OAEOLINA. 

South Carolina is one of the most interesting States in the Union, in its legendary and his- 
toric story, in its social characteristics, and In its physical aspect. 

Upon its settlement by the English, in 1670, John Locke, the famous philosopher, framed a Con- 
stitution for the young Colony, after the pattern of that of Plato's Model Republic. Later (1690) tho 
native poetic humor of the people received a new prompting from the influx of French Huguenots, 
driven from their own land by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantz. This chivalric spirit was 
fostered by the wars which they shared with the Georgians, under Oglethorpe, against the Span- 
iards in Florida, and by the gallant struggles in which they were perpetually involved with the 
Temassee and other of their Indian neighbors. Xext came the long and painful trial of the Re- 
volution, in which these resolute people were among the first and most ardent to take up arms in 
the cause of right— the most persistent and self-sacrificing in the prosecution of the contest, im- 
der every rebuff, and the last to leave the bloody and devastating fight — a story now told un- 
deniably and gloriously everj'where through her romantic territory, ui^on the battle-fields, from 
the mountains to the sea. 

The generous temper, from which all this brave historj' grew, has been ever since nourished 
and developed by the social circumstances of the people ; the kindly and benign influences of a 
pastoral or agricultural life, cementing, endearing, and perpetuating, through a thousand links, 
family love, associations, attainments, and possessions. These characteristics have been j-et 
further brought out by the climate, by the physical nature of their home, and by the domestic 
dependence of one portion of the community, and the ennobling effect of tho consciousness of 
power and the obligations it imposes upon the other. 

The physique of the Palmetto State is exceedingly varied. Here, on the sea-board and the 



SOTTTH OAEOLmA. 



169 



Bouth, broad savannas and deep, dank lagunes, covered witli teeming fields of rice, and fruithful 
in a thousand changes of tropical vegetation ; in the middle districts great undulating meadows, 
overspread with the luxuriant maize, or white with snowy carpetings of cotton ; and, again, to the 
northward, bold mountain ranges, lovely valleys, and matchless waterfalls. 

" The sunny land, the sunny land, Tvliere Nature has displayed 
Her fairest worlds, with lavish land, in hill, and vale, and glade ; 
Her streams flow on in melody, through fair and fruitful plains ; 
And, from the mountains to the sea, with teauty plenty reigns 1" 



Railways. The South Carolina Railway 
traverses the lower portion of the State, 137 
miles from Charleston to Augusta, Georgia. 
There are many villages but no important towns 
on tliis route, excepting Ailiin, a semi-watering 
place, 17 miles from Augusta. 

The North Eastern Eailway will extend north 
from Charleston to Florence, where it will tap 
the great highway, from Boston to New Orleans, 
which now leaves Charleston to the eastward. 

The Cheraw aud Darlington extends 40 miles 
to Cheraw from Florence terminus of the North- 
eastern road from Charleston, on the Wilming- 
ton and Manchester. 

The Columbia Branch esteiids 66 miles from 
Branchville midway, on the South-eastern road 
to Columbia, the Capital of the State. 

The North Eastern Railway, from Charleston 
102 miles to Florence link of great route from 
Charleston to New York. 

The Charleston and Savannah Railway is 
completed from Charleston to Coosawatchie, 61 
miles, and wiU soon be opened through. 

The "Wilmington and Manchester extends 172 
miles from Kingsville, Columbia Branch of 
South Carolina road. Stations — Kingsville to 
Wateree, Junction, 9 miles (Camden Branch 
Road diverges here) ; Manchester, 15 ; Sumter- 
ville, 25 ; Maysville, 34 ; Lynchburg, 43 ; Tim- 
monsville, 52 ; Florence, 64 (North Eastern 
Road for Charleston and the Cheraw and Dar- 
lington, for Cheraw, diverge here) ; Mar's 
Bluffs, 70 ; Pee Dee, 76 ; Marion, 85 ; Mullen's, 
92; Nichol's, 99; Fine Bluff, 108; Grist's, 118; 
Whitesville, 127 ; Flemington, 137 ; Maxwell's, 
144 ; Brinkley's, 154 ; Wilmington, 171 miles. 

The Camden Branch extends 37 miles from 
Kingsville— Columbia Branch of the South Caro- 
lina Road. Stations — Kingsville to Clarkson's, 
4 miles ; Manchester Junction, 9 ; Middleton, 
li ; Claremont, IS ; Hopkins, 28 ; Camden, 37 
miles. 

The Charlotte and South Carolina Railway 
extends northward, through the mountain re- 
gion, 105 miles, from Columbia to Charlotte, 
North Carolina. The principal places passed 
are Winnsboro' and Chester. At Chester a rail- 
way diverges for Yorkville. 

8 



The Greenville and Columbia Railway ex- 
tends northwest, via Newberry C. H., 143 miles 
from Columbia to Greenville, with branches 
aud connecting ines to Spartanburg. Daurens- 
ville, Abbeville, and Anderson. 

The Spartanburg and Union Railway deflects 
at Alson, from the Greenville and Columbia 
Railway, 55 miles north-west of Columbia. 
When finished to Spartanburg it will be 67 
miles long. 

The Laurens Road extends 32 miles from 
Newberry C. H. (Greenville and Columbia 
Railway) to Laurensville. 

The Abbeville Branch of the Greenville and 
Columbia Road deflects at Cokesbury, 19 miles 
to Abbeville. 

The Anderson Branch (Greenville and Co- 
lumbia) deflects at Belton, 10 miles to Anderson. 
From this point and from Spartanburg other 
roads are in progress to connect with the rail- 
way routes of North Carolina and Tennessee. 

Charleston from New York. 

From. New York daily, by railway, to Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore, Washington C!ity, Fred- 
ericksburg, and Richmond, Va., Welden and 
Wilmington, N. C. ; thence by Wilmington and 
Manchester Railway to Kingsville, on the Co- 
lumbia Branch of the South Carolina Road ; or 
more directly by the newer route — via North 
Eastern Railway, which deflects from the Wil- 
mington and Manchester road at Florence. 

The pleasantest mode of travel, however, 
from New York to Charleston or Savannah, is 
by the fine line of steamships, which make the 
voyage-in some 60 hours twice a week, leaving 
New York (pier No. 4) every Wednesday and 
Saturday. The fare is about the same whether 
by sea or land ; meals in the latter case adding 
so much to the coast. 

From New Orleans to Charleston. Steamers 
daily to Mobile and to Montgomery, Alabama ; 
thence, by railway, to Atlanta ; thence, by 
Georgia Road, to Augusta ; thence, by South 
Carolina Road, to Charleston. 

From Savannah to Charleston. Steamers 
every Monday, Thursday, and Friday. 



170 



SOUTH CAEOLINA. 



Cliarleston. — Hotels : — Tliehotels are nu- 
merous and among the most stately edifices 
in the city. They are usuallj" kept in a style 
■which ^vill rank with any in the country. 
Among the most conspicuous of these are the 
"Charleston Hottl," the "Mills House," the 
" Calder House," the "Pavilion," and the Plan- 
ters' Hotel." The charges at these houses range 
from $1 50 to $2 50 per diem. The " Charleston 
Hotel," the "Mills House," and "Pavilion 
Hotel," are particularly good specimens of 
Charleston architecture. 

Charleston, the metropolis of South Carolina, 
is picturesquely situated at the confluence of the 
Ashley and Cooper Rivers, -which combine to 
form its harbor. This harbor is deep and 
spacious, drawiag 17 feet of water. The coup 
cCmil is noble, broad, imposing, and highly pic- 
turesque. Though the grounds arc low, hardly 
more than 12 feet above high water, the eflect is 
good ; and the city,like Venice, seems, at a little 
distance, to be absolutely rising out of the sea. 
The bay is almost completely landlocked, making 
the harborage and roadstead as secure as they are 
ample. The adjuncts contribute to form a tout 
ensemble of much beauty. Directly at the en- 
trance of the city stands Castle Pinckney, a 
fortress which covers an ancient shoal. On the 
sea-line rises Fort Moultrie, famous as Fort Sul- 
livan, in beating off, and nearly destroying, the 
British fleet, under Sir Peter Parker, in 1770. 
On the eastern extremity of the same island 
(Sullivan's) on which Fort Moultrie stands, j'ou 
may trace the outline of the fortress, which, un- 
der Colonel Thompson, with 700 CaroUna rifles, 
defeated Sir Henry Clinton at the very moment 
when Moultrie drove Sir Peter Parker away 
from the South. "Within the harbor you are ar- 
rested by the imposing battlements of Fortress 
Sumter, which covers the channel with a formid- 
able array of cannon. This fort, with that of 
Moultrie, constitute the chief defences of the 
place upon the sea. On James Island you are 
shown the ruins of old Fort Johnson. On the 
opposite headlands of the Haddrill you may 
trace the old lines which helped in the defence 
of the city, eighty years ago, but which are now 
mostly covered by the smart vill.ige of Mount 
Pleasant. These points, north, east, and south, 
with the city Ij-ing west of them, bound the har- 
bor, leaving an ample circuit of bay — coursing 
over which, from south to north, the eye gladly 
pursues the long stretch of Cooper River, the 
Etiwando of the Red men, along the banks of 
which, for many miles, the sight is refreshed by 
noble rice-fields, and in many places by fine old 
structures of the ancient and present gentry. 



Steamers ply up this river, and return the same 
day; affording a good bird's-eye view of the 
settlements, along a very picturesque shore line, 
on either hand. It was up this river that Mr. 
Webster distinguished himself by shooting an 
alligator, or rather shooting at him— the alliga- 
tor diving at the shot, and leaving the matter 
sufficiently doubtful to enable an old lawyer 
and politician to make a plausible case of it. 

Standing on James Island, or on the battle- 
ments of Fort Sumter, the eye notes the broad 
stream of the Ashley, winding from west of the 
city, round its southernmost point, to mingle in 
with the waters of the Cooper. The Ashley was 
anciently a region of great wealth and magnifi- 
cence. It is still a river of very imposing 
aspects— broad, capacious, with banks of green, 
through which you may stiU behold some antique 
and noble edifices. Within the harbor, if you 
can appropriate a couple of days, you may find 
them agreeably employed, especially in the sum- 
mer months, by a trip to Fort Sumter, to James 
Island, to Mount Pleasant, and Sullivan's Island. 
The two latter places are favorite and healthy 
retreats for the citizens of Charleston in mid- 
summei'. The "Mount Pleasant Hotel" is am- 
ple, cool, and well kept, with the usual adjuncts 
of bowling and billiard-saloons. The forests in 
the immediate neighborhood afford fine drives 
and picturesque rambles. You pass in twenty 
minutes from Mount Pleasant to Sullivan's 
Island. The Moultrie House, at this place, is 
one of the finest watering-places in the southern 
country. The sea-bathing is secure ■, the beach — 
one of the most capacious — affords hard drives, 
along the line of breakers, for nearly three miles, 
to the eastern end of the island, where the sea, 
angrily struggling with shoals to press into the 
estuaries behind SitUivan and Long Islands, keeps 
up a pei-petual and not unpleasant ro.ar— exhibit- 
ing its passions in a way to inspire no terror. 

Charleston was originally founded about 1670. 
It was subsequently laid out on a plan furnished 
from England, which was then considered of 
very magnificent scale ; but the streets were 
narrow, though regularly laid out, and no provi- 
sion was made for public squares. In this respect 
the city is still very deficient. But the general 
style of building, which gives to each private 
dwelling a large court of its own, with trees and 
verandahs, renders the want of public squares 
less sensibly felt. Originally buUt of wood, and 
ravaged by frequent fires, Charleston has be- 
come, in a large degree, a city of brick. Its 
public buildings are some of them antique as 
well as noble edifices. St. Michael's Church, the 
State House (now employed for the Courts of 
Justice), and the Old Custom House, are all solid 



SOUTH OAEOLESTA. 



171 



aud imposing strnctures, raised during the colo- 
nial period. St. Michael's Tower is held in great 
admiration amona; the Charlestonians. The Cus- 
tom House has a traditional character, as distin- 
guished by the British in the Eevolution as the 
prison-house of the patriots. It was in this 
building that Hayne, tlie martyr, was kept in 
bonds ; and hence lie was led out to execution. 
The New Custom House, of marble, is making 
rapid progress, and promises to be one of the 
finest specimens of American architecture. The 
several churches of St. Philip (Episcopal), St. 
Finsbar (Cathohc), Citadel Square (Baptist), 
Central (Presbyterian), are all fine edifices ; the 
towers of St. Finsbar, of St. Philip, and the 
Baptist, rising more than 200 feet. 

Among the objects of public curiosity is the 
Orphan Asylum — a magnificent structure, of 
great capacity. It generally contains from 150 
to 250 orphans, the numbers of both sexes being 
nearly equal. The Military Academy (citadel) 
is a State institution. One-half of its 180 mem- 
bers are beneficiary. The plan of education is 
borrowed, in part, from the system at West 
Point, and in part from the Polytechnique School 
of France. Its graduates are among the most 
distinguished and successful, perhaps, of all our 
colleges, and are more thoroughly grounded in 
the useful pursuits than any other. To examine 
these two institutions will aflbrd the stranger 
very grateful employment for a day. 

The environs of the citj' aflbrd a variety of 
very pleasant drives. The Battery, which is the 
Charleston Prado, Plaza, Alameda, Carrousel, is 
of great resort on pleasant afternoons ; thronged 
with carriages and pedestrians. Its gardens are, 
on such occasions, crowded with happy children. 
But take a coach and drive to the Magnolia 
Cemetery — a beautiful "city of the silent" — the 
Greenwood and Mount Auburn of Charleston. 
You will find this a lovely retreat ; well laid out — 
mingled woods and waters — looking out on the 
Cooper, whose streams find their way into its 
pretty lakelets, over which the live oak hangs its 
Druid mosses. From this scene drive across 
the Ashley River ; cross this broad stream, here 
a mile in width, and find yourself at once in the 
country, among cotton plantations and lovely 
farmsteads. If you have time, continue your 
drive a few miles farther, to the " Old Parish 
Church of St. Andrew," one of the most antique 
churches built by the early settlers under the 
Anglican regime. 

The great avenue from Charleston into the 
country was pronounced by Archdale, one of the 
Lords Proprietors, such an avenue as no prince 
of Europe could boast. This was due to the 
noble oaks and magnolias, the myrtles and the 
jessamines, which lined it on either hand, mak- 



ing it a covered way, embowered in shade, grate- 
ful in green, venerable with moss, and giving out 
a perpetual fragrance from a world of summer 
flowers. 

Returning to the city, you will find yourself 
interested in numerous public buildings and in- 
stitutions, all of whicli are of interest to the 
traveller, wlio is either studious or simply curi- 
ous. Cliarleston is especially rich in her public 
charities : — the South Carolina, Fellowship, Hi- 
bernian, Hebrew, German, and a varietj' besides 
all of whom have large endowments and fine 
buildings. She has a Literary and a Medical 
College in prosperous exercise. The College 
Library contains some 10,000 volumes : the 
Charleston Library, some 30,000 ; the Appren- 
tices', 12,000. The College Museum is second to 
none in the United States. 

The commerce of Charleston, once equal to 
that of any city on the Atlantic, has undergone 
many fiuotuations. It is now reviving, and grad- 
ually increasing in extent and profit. She is 
slowly building up a marine of her own. Her 
chief exports are rice, cotton, tobacco, lumber, 
tar, pitch, and turpentine. Her farms now con- 
triliute their spring supplies to New York and 
other Northern cities. The quantity of rice 
raised within the State, and exported through 
Charleston, exceeds that of any other State and 
city ; and the enterprise of her merchants and 
citizens, in the construction of railways to the 
Appalachian Mountains, is adding largely to her 
importance as a depot, and place of trade and 
transit for the great interior of the West. She 
has steam lines to New York, Philadelphia, Bal- 
timore, Havana, and Florida. Her population is 
now estimated at 65,000 inhabitants, of whoin 
20,000 are slaves. 

We have indicated Fort Moultrie as a spot 
distinguished by one of the greatest battles of 
the Revolution ; but the chronicles of Charles- 
ton show, besides, a long series of gall.ant strug- 
gles with powerful enemies. She has been 
threatened by the Red men, who, iu formidable 
alliance, brought "down their numerous tribes to 
her very gates. She has been assailed by fleets 
of the Spaniards and the French. Her colonial 
existence was one long struggle with the Span- 
iards and the savages. In the revolutionary 
contest she took a first and most distinguished 
part against the Crown ; was thrice assafied by 
the British, and only succumbed finally to their 
arms, after a leaguer of two months, and when 
half the city was in ruins, and the people were 
suffering from famine. She has contributed 
some of the most able and patriotic men to the 
Republic in arts, arms, statesmanshiii, science, 
and literature. She is the birthplace of Chris- 
topher Gadsden, William Moultrie, Charles 



172 



SOTJTH OAEOLINA. 



~ Cotesworth and Thomas Pinckney, Henry Mid- 
dleton, Arthur Middleton, Thomas Lynch, John 
and Edward Rutledge, William Lowndes, Joel 
R. Poinsett, Stephen Elliott, Hugh Legar6, Hol- 
brook, Haynes (R. Y.)) and scores "besides, who 
have left honorable memorials, national as well 
as sectional, of which she may be justly proud, 
and to which the Confederacy itself is happy to 
do honor. The descendants of these great men 
Btill survive, and serve to give character to 
society, and to add to the attractions of the city. 
Let the traveller, if lie can, give a week to 
Charleston, and he will find its scenery, its so- 
ciety, its characteristics, quite sufficient to exer- 
cise his curiosity • and thoughts during that 
period ; but if he can appropriate two days 
only, we have shown him how these may be 
profitably spent. 

The Seaboard and Lowland towns, 
villages, and plantations, may be reached by the 
steamboats which ply between Charleston and 
Savannah, or by stage or carriage from the line 
of the railway. The traveller will not sec them 
in their own peculiar beauty, because the climate 
in summer time, when the wonderful tropical 
vegetation covers the rank earth, is not to be 
braved by the unacclimated. The planters them- 
selves, indeed, remove with their families, at this 
season, either to the uplands or to the little sandy 
pine-covered elevations with which the country 
is dotted. The negroes, alone, can bear the sum- 
mer airs of the lowlands without ill results. In 
the winter, however, life may easily be made 
enjoyable in the villages here, under the balmiest 
and most healthful of temperatures, and in the 
midst of genial and refined society. 

Beaufort, in the extreme southern part of 
the State, 16 miles inland, on two great arms of 
the sea, is a pleasant little village, where one 
might winter quietly and healthfully. The 
steamers (mland route) from Charleston to Sa- 
vannah call here. 

The Lowlands of Carolina.— The jour- 
ney on the South Carolina railway will give the 
traveller some inkling of the lowland features of 
the southcru landscape, though not in its strong- 
est or most interesting character. Since much 
of the way is through extensive pine forests, 
which makes the rhyming sneer bestowed upon 
this part of the country not altogether inapt : 

" Where to the North, pine trees in prospect rise ; 
Where to the Kast, pine trees assail the skies; 
Where to the ■\rest, pine trees obstruct the view ; 
■Wiiere to the South, pine trees forever grew 1 " 

But a second glimpse will reveal, amidst all 
these " pine trees," the towering cj-press, with 
its foliage of fringe and its garlands of moss — the 
waxen bay-leaf, the rank laurel, and the cluster- 



ing ivy ; and, if you are ■watchful, yon may 
catch, in the rapid transit of the cars through 
the swamps, glimpses of almeet interminable 
cathedral aisles of cypress and vine, sweeping 
through the deeper parts of the boundless la- 
goons. But a railroad glimpse, and especially at 
the speed with which you travel here, is quite 
insuflicient for reasonable observation. At 
Woodlands, a mile only south of Midway, the 
centre of the road, lives the distinguished poet 
and novelist, Simms ; and, as ho is always upon 
hospitable thoughts intent, we will pay him a 
flying visit, not doubting of our welcome. Yon- 
der, in that wide and spreading lawn, stands our 
author's mansion — an old-fashioned brick struc- 
ture, with massive and strange portico. The 
ranks of orange-trees and live oak which sentinel 
his castle, are the objects of his tenderest care- 
true and ardent lover of nature as he is. Mr. 
Simms has a particular fondness for the especial 
grape-vine, depending in such fantastic and num- 
berless festoons from the limbs of yon venerable 
tree. He has immortalized it in his song ; and, 
as it is a good specimen of its class — a class nu- 
merous in the South — we will pay it an humble 
tribute in our prose. It is strong-limbed as a 
giant — and, but for the grace with which it clings 
to the old forest-king, would seem to be rather 
struggling with him for his sceptre, than loyally 
and lovingly suing for his protection. The vine 
drops its festoons, one beneath the other, in such 
a manner that half a dozen persons may find a 
cozy seat, each over his fellow, for a merry 
swing. On a dreamy summer eve, you may va- 
cillate, in these rustic couches, to your heart's 
content , one arm thrown round the \ine will se- 
cure you in your seat, while the hand may hold 
the favorite book, and the other pluck the deli- 
cious clusters of grapes, which, as you swing, en- 
circle your head like the wreath upon the brow 
of Bacchus. If the rays of the setting sun be 
hot. then the rich and impenetrable canopy of 
foliage above you will not prove ungrateful. 

A stroll over Mr. Simms' plantation will give 
you a pleasant inkling of almost every feature of 
the Southern lowlands, in natural scenery, social 
life, and the character and position of the slave 
population. You may sleep sweetly and sound- 
ly within his hospitable walls, secure of a happy 
day on the morrow, whether the rain holds you 
prisoner within doors, or the glad sunshine drags 
you abroad. He will give you a true Southern 
breakfast, at a verj' comfortable hour, and then 
furnish you abundant sources of amusement in 
his well-stocked library, or snfier you to seek it 
elsewhere, as your fancy listeth. At dinner, you 
shall not lack good cheer, for either the physical 
or the intellectual man, and then you may take a 
pleasant stroU to the quiet banks of the Edisto 



eOITTH OAEOLESTA. 



173 



— ■watcTi the raft-mon floating lazily down the 
stream, and interpret as you will the windings 
and echoes of their boat-horns — or you may muse 
in the shaded bowers of Turtle Cove, or any 
of the many other inlets and bayous of the 
stream. Go where you may, you must not fail 
to peep into the dark and solemn swamps. You 
may traverse their waters on wild bridges of de- 
cayed and fallen trees ; you may dream of knight 
and troubadour, as your eye wanders through 
the gothic passages of cypress, interlacing their 
branches, and bearing the ever-dependent moss, 
which hangs mournfully, as if weeping over the 
desolation and death which brood within the 
fatal precincts. If you fear not to startle the 
wild-fowl, to disturb the serpent, or to encounter 
the alligator, you may enter your skiff, and, sail- 
ing through the openings in the base of the cy- 
press, you may penetrate at pleasure, amidst 
busli and brake, into the mystic chambers of 
these poisonous halls. Mr. Simms has beauti- 
fully described these solemn scenes in his 
" Southern Passages and Pictures : " 

"'Tis a wild spot, and liatli a gloomy look; 
The bird sings never merrily in the trees, 
And the young leaves seem blighted. A rank growth 
Spreads poisonously round, with power to taint, 
"With blistering dews, the thoughtless hand that dares 
To penetrate the covert. Cypresses 
Crowd on the dark, wet earth ; and stretched at length, 
The cayman — a fit dweller in such home — 
Slumbers, half buried in the sedgy grass. 
Beside the green ooze where he shelters him. 
A whooping crane erects his skeleton form, 
And shrieks in "flight. Two summer-ducks aroused 
To apprehension, as they hear his cry. 
Bash up from the lagoon, with marvellous haste, 
Following his guidance. Meetly taught by these, 
And startled by our rapid, near approach, 
The steel-jawed monster, from his grassy bed, 
Crawls slowly to his slimy, green abode. 
Which straight receives him. Ton behold him now, 
His ridgy back uprising as he speeds. 
In silence, to the centre of the stream, 
Whence his head peers alone." 
***** 

Rambling, once upon a time, through the negro 
quarters of Mr. Simms' plantation, we amused 
ourself in studying the varied characters of the 
slaves, as shown in the style of their cabins, the 
order in which they kept them, the taste dis- 
played in their gardens, etc. ; for every man has 
all the material and time at his command to 
make himself and his family as comfortable as 
he pleases. The huts of some bore as happy an 
air as one might desire ; neat palings enclosed 
them ; the gardens were full of flowers, and 
blooming vines clambered over the doors and 
windows. Others, again, had been sulTered by 
the idle occupants to fall into sad decay ; no evi- 
dence of taste or industry was to be seen in their 
Mngeless doors, their fallen fences, or their 



weed-grown gardens. These lazy fellows were 
accustomed even to cut down the shade trees 
which had been kindly planted before their 
homes, rather than walk a few yards farther for 
other and even better fuel. The more industri- 
ous of the negroes here, as elsewhere, employ 
their leisure hours, which are abundant, in the 
culture of vegetables and in raising fowls, which 
they sell to their masters, and thus supply them- 
selvoe with the. means to purchase many little 
luxuries of life. For necessaries tliey have no 
concern, since they are amply and generously 
provided with all which they can require. 
Others who will not thus work for their pin- 
money, are dependent upon the kindness of their 
masters, or more frequently upon their ingenui- 
ty at thieving. Many of them sell to their mas- 
ter in the morning the produce they have stolen 
from him the previous night. At least, they all 
manage to keep their puvses filled ; and we were 
assured that not one, had he occasion or desiro 
to visit Charleston or Augusta, but could readi- 
ly produce the means to defray his expenses. 
One old woman was pointed out to us, who had 
several times left the plantation with permission 
to remain away as long as she pleased ; yet, al- 
though her absences were sometimes of long 
continuance, she was too wise not to return to a 
certain and good home. Wander how and whith- 
er she would, in due time her heart would join 
the burden of the song : 

" Oh ! carry me back to old Virginny, 
To old Virginny's shore ! " 

"While once visiting some friends in Carolina, 
we had the pleasure of witnessing the bridal fes- 
tivities of one of the servants of the family, a girl 
of some eighteen years. The occasion was one 
of those pleasant things which long hold place in 
the memory. For days previous, the young la- 
dies of the household gayly busied themselves in 
kind preparations for the event ; in instructions 
to the bride, in the preparation of her white 
muslin robe, of her head-dress, and other por- 
tions of her toilet, in writing her notes of invita- 
tion to her sable friends — Mr. Sambo Smith or 
Miss Clara Brown, according to the baptismala 
of their respective masters, whose names the ne- 
groes of the South always assume. In our qual- 
ity of artist, we had the pleasure to expend our 
water-colors in wreaths of roses, and pictures of 
cupids, hearts, and darts, and so on, upon the 
icings of the cakes which the young ladies had 
prepared for the bridal feast; and who knows 
but that our chef cPcBuvrcs were cons-umed by 
ebony lips on that memorable night 1 The cere- 
mony took place in the cabin of the bride, and 
in presence of the whites ; and then followed 
revelry, feasting, and dancing upon the lawn, 



174 



COUTH OAEOLINA. 



mnoh to the delight of the happy pair and their 
diirk friends, and scarcely less to the pleasure of 
the bride's kind mistresses and of all of us who 
witnessed their sports from the parlor windows. 
By the way, when you journey :n the South, 
line your pockets with tobacco, dispense it gener- 
ously to the darkies, and they are your friends 
for life. 

As we have said, "Woodlands and its vicinage 
will enlighten you as to the genus of the scenery 
of all the lowlands of the South. This genus, 
however, you will find, as you ramble from the 
seaboard towards the interior, subdivided into 
many species, each widely varying from the 
other. Upon the seaboard, and its many lovely 
and luxuriant islands, you will find the beau 
ideal of Southern soil, climate, vegetation, archi- 
tecture, and character. Here abound those love- 
ly inlets and bays, which make up the absence 
of the lake scenery of the ISTorth. These bayous 
and lakelets are covered with the rankest tropi- 
cal vegetation ; they abound in every species of 
wild-fowl— birds of the most gorgeous plumage, 
songsters of the sweetest notes — the mocking- 
bird and the nightingale, the robin, and a host of 
other equally celebrated warblers. Here, the 
foliage is so dense and rich, in form and color, 
that a poor imagination will readily people the 
spot with elves and sprites ; and there, again, so 
dark and solemn are the caverns, overshadowed 
by the impenetrable roofs of leaves, that you 
may readilj' interpret the screech of the owl, the 
groan of the bull-frog, and the hiss of the ser- 
pent into the tmearthly wail of damned spirits. 
These are fitting haunts for the sad and contem- 
plative mind at the witching hour of night. 

Here, the rice plantations abound. Many of 
them are of great extent, some of the planters 
employing several hundred slaves. The white 
population is thus necessarily thin yet opulent. 
The cabins of the negroes on these extensive do- 
mains, surrounding the mansion and its many 
otitbuildings of the proprietor, give to every set- 
tlement the aspect of a large and thriving vil- 
lage. There is something peculiarly fascinating 
in this species of softened feudal life. The 
slaves are for the most part warmly attached to 
their masters, and they watch over their interests 
as they would their own. Indeed, they consider 
themselves part and parcel of their master's 
family. They bear his name, they share his; 
bounty ; and their fortmie depends wholly upon 
Ills. Through life they have every comfort ; the 
family physician attends them when sick, and in 
their old age and imbecility they are well pro- 
tected. They glory in their master's success and 
hapisiuess ; their pride is in exact proportion to 
the I'auk of the family they serve ; and, what- 



ever that may be, they still cherish a haughty and 
self-satisfied contempt for "poor white folks." 

" Go 'way, Sambo," we once heard one of 
these jovial lads exclaim to another, whose ill- 
fortune it was to serve a less opulent planter 
than himself; "go 'way, Sambo, your massa 
only got fifty niggers ; my massa got hundred." 
And he ijulled up his shirt-collar, and marcbed 
pompously off with the step and air of a mil- 
lionnaire. 

The masters, themselves, descended from an 
old chevalier stock, and, accustomed through 
many generations to the seclusion of country 
life, and that life under Southern skies, and sur- 
rounded with all the appliances of wealth and 
homage, have acquired an ease, a grace, a gener- 
osity, and largeness of character, incompatible 
with the daily routine of the petty occupations, 
str.atagcms, and struggles of modern commercial 
and metropolitan life, be it in the South or the 
North. 

Where the swamps and bayous do not extend, 
the country, still flat, is mostly of a rich sandy 
soil, which deeply tinges the waters, of all the 
rivers from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. This 
is the grand characteristic of the southern por- 
tions of all the Gulf States. The rivers, as they 
extend towards the interior, are fined with high 
sandy bluffs, which, still further northward, 
give place, in their turn, to mountain ledges and 
granite walls. These streams, from the Missis- 
sippi to the Alabama, the Chattahoochee and 
the Savannah, to the smaller rivers of Carolina 
and Florida, are filled with sandy islands, ever 
changing their position and form. Frequently 
high freshets occur in them, completely altering 
their channels, and bearing away the. produce 
of whole plantations, from the cotton bale to 
the family domicile, and the century-aged tree 
which shaded it. In crossing the smaller water- 
cotirses of the South, we have often observed 
marks of the extent of a freshet upon high trees, 
at an elevation of 50 or 60 feet above our head. 
They are sometimes an excessive bore to the 
hurried traveller, holding him water-bound for 
daj's together, and invariably in places where, 
of all others, he does not love to tarry. 

We happened to be in Augusta years ago, 
during a great rise in the waters of the Savan- 
nah. In' the course of some few hours, the river 
had extended its limits throughout the city, and 
over the plain for miles in every direction. It 
was a novel and beautiful sight to gaze from 
your balcony upon this unlooked-for Venice. 
Boats were sailing in every direction through 
the streets— even the ponderous crafts of the 
Savannah, cap.able of holding fifty or sixty men. 
We observed the pretty vessel of the " Augusta 



SOUTH CAEOLIKA. 



175 



Boat Club," dnsliing up Broad street and under 
the hotel windows , with the crew in full dress, 
music sounding, and gay banners wa\'ing upon 
the air I A ferry was established to pick up 
passengers at their doors or windows, and con- 
vey them to the base of the Sand-hills, a sum- 
mer retreat, some three miles to the northward. 
The cross streets leading from the river were 
washed away to the depth of many feet, and for 
days afterwards passengers were transported 
across them in flats and bateaux. 

From these freshets, with the innumerable 
stagnant pools which they leave, together with 
the miasma arising from immense quantities of 
decaying vegetable matter, spring many of the 
local fevers and diseases of the South. In Au- 
gusta, the yellow fever followed the great fresh- 
et, and carried off, during the brief space of a 
few weeks, nearly three hundred of the inhab- 
itants. This terrible scourge had not previously 
visited. the city for eighteen years, and has not 
since returned. 

G-eorgetown, one of the oldest settlements 
in South Carolina, is about 15 miles from the 
sea on Winyaw Bay, near the junction of the 
Pedee, Black, and Waccamaw Rivers. Some 
revolutionary memories are awakened here. In 
1780 the vicinage was the scene of a skirmish be- 
tween American and British troops, and in 1781 
it was taken from the enemy by General Marion, 
and the military works destroyed. 

Columbia. — Hotels -.—The Congaree, 

Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, is 
123 miles from Charleston, by the South Carolina 
Railway and the Columbia Branch. It is con- 
nected by railway with the great route from 
]S"ew York to New Orleans, with Augusta, 
Georgia, and with Camden, Cheraw, and most 
of the interior and mountain villages of the 
State. It is a beautiful city, situated on the 
bluffs of the Congaree, a few miles below the 
charming falls of that river. It is famous for its 
delightfully shaded streets, its wonderful flower 
gardens, and the model plantations in its vicinity. 
Nothing can be more inviting than the walks 
and drives in the neighborhood. The South Car- 
olina College, located here, is a prosperous insti- 
tution, with from 150 to 200 students. The new 
capitol building of granite, now in progress, will 
be a noble edifice, costing about three millions of 
dollars. 

The college and State libraries are large and 
choice. The lunatic asylum is an object of great 
interest. Here, also, is the theological college of 
the Presbyterian Church, and a Roman Catholic 
establishment. The population of Columbia is 
about 9,000. 



Camden. — Hotels : — Mansion Souse. 

Camden is 83 miles north-east of Columbia, 
with which it is connected by railway, though 
with such considerable detours as to increase 
the distance to 52 miles. A direct line is in pro- 
gress. Distance from Charleston by railwaji-, 
140 miles. It is on the Wateree Kiver, navigable 
to this point by steamboats. Camden is a place 
of great historic interest. A battle was fought 
near bjr, August, 1780, between the Americans, 
under General Gates, and the British, under 
Lord Cornwallis ; and another in April, 1781, be- 
tween General Greene and Lord Rawdon. The 
scene of the latter struggle is the south-eastern 
slope of Hobkirk's Hill, now called Kirkwood, a 
beautiful summer suburb of the old town. Upon 
the Green, in front of the Presbyterian Church, 
on De Kalb street, there is a monument over 
the grave of Baron De Kalb, who fell in the bat- 
tle of August, 1780, at Camden. The corner 
stone was laid in 1825, by La Fayette. The 
head-quarters of Cornwallis, to be seen here, is 
a fine old building in ruins. On the Market 
House, there is a well-executed metallic effigy, 
10 feet high, of King Haiglar, a most famous 
chieftain of the Catawbas. Mr. Simms has 
made this Indian King the theme of one of hia 
fine legends. 

Port Motte, an important Revolutionary 
relic, is upon high terrace ground, near the BuU's 
Head Neck, on the Congaree, just above ita 
meeting with the "Wateree, 33 miles below 
Columbia, and en route thence from Charleston. 

Cheraw, near the northern line of the State, 
is at present 207 miles from Charleston, and 129 
miles from Columbia by railway. The north- 
eastern railway, nov/ partly in operation, will 
open a direct and much nearer. route from the 
former city, and a direct road from the latter ia 
in contemplation. Cheraw is on the Great Pe- 
dee River, at the head of steam navigation. 

Orangreburg: is on the line of the South 
Carolina (Columbia branch) Railwaj^, 97 miles 
from Charleston, and 49 from Columbia. It is a 
spot of historic interest, near the banks of the 
Edisto River. It formed a link in the chain of 
military posts established by the British after 
the fall of Charleston. Among the old relics 
here, are some remains of the works erected by 
Rawdon, near the Edisto, ana the old Court 
House, which bears traces, in the shape of bul- 
let marks, of the assault made by Sumter in 
1781. 

Eutaw Springs. This interesting spot, the 
scene of the famous battle of Eutaw, is about 40 
miles below Orangeburg, and 60 miles north-west 
of Charleston. 



176 



SOUTH CAEOLIN-A. 



THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AND SCE- 
NERY OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 

The northern districts of South Carolina, form, 
with the neigliboring hill-region of Georgia, and 
the western portion of North Carolina, one of 
the most interesting chapters in the great vol- 
ume of American landscape beauty and wonder. 
In mountain surprises, picturesque valley nooks, 
and delicious waterfalls, this region is nowhere 
surpassed in all the Union. Beautiful and 
healthful villages, with high social attractions, 
aflbrd most agreeable homes and head-quarters 
to the hunter of the j^icturesque. These vil- 
lages are favorite summer resorts of the people 
of the lowlands of the State ; and their elegant 
mansions and villas are every year more and 
more embellishing all the vicinage. 

Greenville. — Hotels : — Mansion House ; 
Goodlelt House. 

Greenville, in the north-west corner of the 
State, lies at the threshold of the chief beauties 
of this region, and gives ready access to all the 
rest. It is distant by railway — from Charleston, 
271 miles — from Columbia, 128 miles. The vil- 
lage is beautifully situated on Reedy River, near 
its source, and at the foot of the Saluda Moun- 
tain. It is one of the most popular summer re- 
sorts in the up-country of Carolina, being in the 
immediate vicinity of the Table Mountain, the 
White "Water, and the Slicking Falls, the Jo- 
cassee, and Saluda Valleys, the Keowee River, 
Paris Mountain, Cassar's Head, and numerous 
other bold peaks of the Blue Ridge. 

The Table Mountain is in Pickens Dis- 
trict, in the north-west corner of South Carolina, 
about 20 miles above the village of Greenville. 
It is one of the most remarkable of the natural 
wonders of the State, rising as it does 4,300 feet 
above the sea, with a long extent on one side of 
perpendicular cliffs, 1,000 feet in height. The 
view of these grand and lofty rocky ledges is ex- 
ceedingly fine from the quiet glens of the valley 
of the cove below, and not less imposing is the 
splendid amphitheatre of hill-tops seen from its 
crown. The record of one of our own journeys 
to this interesting locality stands thus in our 
note-book : 

Approaching the broad perpendicular side of 
the mountain, at its base, we came upon it sud- 
denly ; a right-angled descent in our path re- 
vealed one of the most charming coup cCa^ils I 
ever enjoyed. In the foreground lay, in pastoral 
beauty, the sweet valley of the cove, diversified 
with greensward and cultivated land, and em- 
bellished with a most picturesque and orthodox 
log-cabin. In the middle ground, rose from the 
bosom of the vale, a Une of mountains, robed in 



richest verdure, upon, which, as a crowning- 
point, the mighty Rock displayed its towering 
front. Besides these magic features, were others 
of winning beauty. Turning the eye, the Bald 
Mountain, Caesar's Head, and other chains were 
visible. The ear, too, detected, though unseen, 
the infantile murmuringsof the Saluda River, as 
it swept through the valley, from its source, a 
few miles north of the great Rock, and between 
it and the adjoining space of the Alleghanies. 
The Stool Mountain to the left, and near the 
Rock, forms a prominent feature in the picture. 
I was told a pretty Indian legend, Bubstautiating 
the former existence of an aboriginal brobdignag- 
dian, whose colossal person and lordly appetite 
could be satisfied with no humbler seat than tho 
" Stool " in question, and no less a board than 
tho noble " Table." Hence the names. Such 
accommodations would suit well for the statue 
of the prince, into which the Grecian Bculi)tor 
was assigned the trifling task of cutting the 
Athenian Acropolis 1 The Rook, of course, de- 
rives its name from its resemblance in form to 
the table. This resemblance, however, is only 
general. It is a solid mass, oblong in form. The 
northern front perpendicular, and over half a 
mile in extent. The eastern is considerably in- 
clined. The southern admits of easy ascent. 
On tho north, the elevation of the rock is about 
1,100 feet, gradually declining towards the west- 
ern verge. The entire elevation above the level 
of the sea is 4,300 feet. 

A long and toilsome ramble over hill and dale, 
led us to the foot of the rock at the usual place 
of ascent, on the eastern fafade. On the way, 
we encountered near the rock a little lake, more 
properly called the " Pool." It was environed 
with straggling and massive pieces of stone, that 
had fallen at various times from above. Proba- 
bly crumbs, that escaped at the orgies of the be- 
fore-mentioned ideal lord of the domain. The 
ascent is made by means of flights of wooden 
steps, secured to the rock. Of these steps, we 
counted about 130. They are substantially built, 
and with the assistance of tlie rail or banister, 
the passage is safe and tolerably easy. From 
the summit we enjoyed a wide-spread and most 
enchanting panorama. 

Among the many mountains seen from our 
eyry station, was the commanding form of CiB- 
sar's Head. It is the highest in the vicinity, and 
well deserving a visit. Across this valley was 
the distant gleam of the Fall of Slicking; its 
long line of sparkling spray heightened much 
the beauty of the scene. The Stool Mountain, 
which is prominent from the valley below, here 
dwindles to its proper height. 

The top of the rock, which is comparatively 
level, is of great extent. In many places the sur- 



BOTTTH CAROLIKA. 



177 



face is Btony, in others alluvial and covered with 
noble trees. Near the centre, the remains of a hut 
exist ; a building erected as a kitchen to a hotel, 
■which it was once contemplated to erect on the 
rock. Though the enterprise was given up, it is 
not at all impracticable. The 50 or 60 acres of 
tillable land might furnish provisions, while for 
water, there is a spring, of the most grateful 
.purity and coolness, near the middle of the iso- 
lated and elevated demesne. 

The Falls of Slicking are in the moun- 
tain glens, on the opposite side of the valley, at 
the base of the Table Rock. 

Leaving the cabin at the base of the Saluda 
Mountain, the tourist in his ascent, soon finds 
himself following the windings of the river. Af- 
ter the passage of about one-quarter of a mile he 
reaches the " Trunk," so called from its being 
the point of junction of two diflerent branches 
of the river or creek ; the distance between these 
streams as you continue to ascend, gradually in- 
creases, and when near the summit they are 
widely separated ; they bear one name, and 
abound, each, in cascades. The right-hand 
branch is the more picturesque, and is the one by 
which the visitor is usually conducted. 

The " Trunk" is decidedly the gem of all the 
locales, and for that reason many forbear visiting 
it as they ascend the mountain, xshilosophically 
leaving it until they have surveyed the lesser 
beauties. Such shall be our course now. Fol- 
lowing then the right or south branch of the 
stream, the tr.aveller is now lost amid the forest 
trees, and now reaching a spread of table-land, 
sees at his feet a tranquil stream ; above him 
sport the feathery waters ; below, wave the tops 
of giant trees; and beyond arises, in majestic 
grandeur, the Table Rock, surrounded by nu- 
merous attendant peaks. Again he is hidden 
in the thick foliage, and again and again he 
reaches the rocky terrace with its basin and its 
cascade, and its mountain distance, each view 
improved by the increased elevation. Near the 
summit is such a terrace as I describe, with a 
perpendicular fall of considerable extent. From 
this point is a charming view of the neighboring 
mount.ains of Csesar's Head, Bald Mountain, the 
Pinnacle Rock, and other spurs. This site is 
second only to the " Trunk," to which we now 
return. 

At the " Trunk " — a scene of remarkable 
charms, where one may linger long unweariedly 
— the two streams fall perpendicularly some 70 
feet, mingling in one in the basin below. This 
basin is easily accessible, and nowhere is there a 
more secluded or more wildly picturesque spot. 
Save when in his meridian, the sun's rays seldom 
violate its solitude. On one side are the two cas- 
cades leaping in snowy masses from rock to rock, 

8* 



and on others are mighty bulwarks of venerable 
stone, here and there studded with the adven- 
turous shrub, or overhung with rich foliage. 

Pendleton is an agreeable little village, on 
Eighteen Mile Creek, Anderson District, in the 
mountain region of the north-west corner of 
South Carolina. The South Carolina Railway 
and its branches approach a few miles below at 
Anderson Court House, thus very nearly con- 
necting it with Charleston, Colvimbia, Green- 
ville, and most of the middle towns of the State. 
It is interesting, from its vicinage to much pic- 
turesque scenery, and to Fort Hill, once the 
home of Calhoun. 

Fort Hill, once the residence of the states- 
man John C. Calhoun, is a few miles only from 
the village of Pendleton. It is a plain but com- 
fortable building of wood, with piazzas and other 
fittings and arrangements, after the usual fashion 
of southern country houses. Here Mr. Calhoun 
lived in his months of release from the toils of 
public life, venerated by the humblest and high- 
est of his neighbors for his noble and gentle pri- 
vate virtues and graces, no less than he was hon- 
ored abroad for his unrivalled genius as a states- 
man and orator. 

Wallialla, a flourishing German settlement, 
is in this region. 

Pickens Court House is a few hours' 
ride, on horseback or carriage, north of Pendle- 
ton and west of Greenville. It is within excur- 
sion distance of the Keowee River, the Valley of 
Jocasse, the Cataract of the White Water, and 
other interesting scenes. 

Tlie Keowee, a beautiful mountain stream, 
in Pickens District, 8. C, with the Tugaloo 
River, forms the Savannah. The road to the 
Valley of Jocasse lies along its banks. 

" I have been where the tides roll by, 

Of mighty riyers deep and wide, 
On eyerj wave and argosy — 

And cities builded on each side : 
■Where the low din of commerce filla 
The ear with strife that never stills. 

" Yet not to me have scenes like these, 

Such charms as thine, oh peerless stream! 
Not cities proud my eye can please — 

Not argosies so rich I deem — 
As th\' cloud-vested hills that rise— . 
And forests looming to the skies ! " 

The Keowee region is full of romantic memo- 
ries of the Cherokee wars. 

The Jocasse Valley, in Pickens District, 
near the northern line of the State, is one of the 
most charmingly secluded little nooks in the 
world, environed as it is on every side, except 
that through which the Keowee steals out, by 
grand mountain ridges. The chief charm of Jo- 



178 



SOTITn OAEOLIN-A. 



casse is, that it is small enough to be felt and en- 
joyed all at once, as its entire area is not too 
much for one comfortable picture. It is such a 
valley as painters delight ia. 

Th.e "Wliite Water Cataracts are an 
hour or two's tramp yet north of Jocasse. Their 
chief beauty is in their picturesque lines and in 
the variety and boldness of the mountain land- 
scape all around : though they would still main- 
tain their claims to the universal admiration, for 
their extent alone, even were the accessory 
scenes far less beautiful than they are. The 
number of visitors hero is increasing year by 
year, and the time is approaching when this and 
the thousand other marvels of nature in the 
Southern States will w'in tourists from the 
North, as the White Mountains and the Cats- 
kills, and Trenton and Lake George now attract 
pilgrims from the South. 

Adjoining this most attractive region of South 
Carolina, and easily accessible therefrom, are 
the many beautiful scenes of the western portion 
of North Carolina, of which we have already 
spoken, and of Tallulah, and Toccoa, and Yonah, 
and Naeoochee, and numerous other lovelj' spots 
in the hill-region of Georgia, which we have yet 
to visit. 

Spartanburg.— Hotels : — 

Spartanburg is connected with Charleston by 
railway via Columbia, and Union — distance 220 
miles. The village of Spartanburg is in the 
midst of a mineral region, famous for its gold 
andiron. Here, too, are some celebrated lime- 
stone spi-ings. The place is the seat of a Uni- 
versity, endowed by Benjamin "Woflbrd, and con- 
trolled by the Methodists ; also of a prosperous 
Female College. A distinguished Asylum for 
the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind is located here. 
Within the limits of this district is the memora- 
ble revolutionary battle-fleld of the Co\\'pens. 

The Battle-field of the Cowpens (Jan- 
uary 17, 1781) is on the hill-range called the 
Thickety Mountain. In the olden time the 
cattle were suffered to graze upon the scene of 
the contest — from whence its name. Without 
reviewing the incidents in detail of the im- 
portant fight of the Cowpens, we will remind 
the reader that it was a brave one, resulting in 
the defeat and retreat of the British under Tarle- 
ton, with a loss of 10 officers and 90 privates 
killed, and 23 officers and 500 privates taken 
prisoners. The American loss was about 70, of 
whom only 12 were killed. 

ITorkville. — Hotels -.—Jasper Stowe^s Ho- 
tel. 
Torkville, midway on the upper boundary of 



South Carolina, is in the heart of its beautiful 
mountain scenery, and is, besides, the particular 
point from whence the tourist may the most 
easily and speedily reach the scenes of the his- 
toric events, which so heighten the pleasure of 
travel in all this region— every plantation telling 
a thrilling tale of its own — for during the last 
three years of the war of the Revolution, there 
was unceasing struggle here between the parti- 
san bands of the patriots and the British 
troops. 

Route. Yorkville is 212 miles from Charleston 
by the South Carohna Eailway and the Co- 
lumbia Branch to Columbia, thence by the 
Charlotte and South Carolina Railway to Ches- 
ter, and thence by the King's Mountain Railway 
to Yorkville. A line of railways comes in at 
Chester, just below Yorkville, from Weldon and 
Goldsboro', N. C. (on the great Northern and 
Southern route), via Raleigh and Charlotte, 
N. C. This is a pleasant access from New 
York, via the mountain region of North Caro- 
lina, to that of South Carolina and Georgia. 

The village of Yorkville is situated upon an 
elevated plain on the dividing ridge between the 
Cat.awba and the Broad Rivers. In the vicinage 
there are some valuable sulphur and magnesia 
waters, to add to the attractions of winning 
sceqery and romantic story which the region so 
abundantly offers to the tourist. 

King's Mountain Battle-field lies about 
12 miles north-east of Yorkville, about a milo 
and a half south of the North Carolina Wne. 
The King's Mountain range extends about sixteen 
miles southward, sending out lateral spurs in 
various directions. The scene of the memor- 
able battle fought in this region is six miles from 
the summit of the hill. A simple monument to 
the memory of Ferguson and others marks the 
spot, and on the right there is a large tulip tree, 
upon which it is said ten tories were hanged. 

The story of the eventful battle of King's 
Mountain is thus told in the words of General 
Gates : " On receiving intelligence," he says in 
his report, " that Major Ferguson had advanced 
lip as high as Gilbert Town, in Rutherford 
County, and threatened to cross the mountains to 
the western waters. Col. William Campbell with 
400 men from Washington County, Virginia, 
Colonel Isaac Shelby with 240 men from Sulli- 
van County, N. C, and Lieut. Colonel John 
Sevier with 240 men of Washington County, 
N. C, assembled at Watanga, on the 25th of 
September (17S0), where they were joined by 
Col. Charles McDowell with 160 men from (ho 
counties of Burke and Rutherford, ha^•ing fled 
before the enemy to the western waters. AVe 
began our march on the 26th, and on the 30th we 
■were joined by Col. Cleaveland, on the Catawba 



BOTJTH OAEOLINA. — FLOEIDA. 



179 



Rlvev, vnth. 350 men from the counties of Wilkes i 
and Surry. No one officer liaving properly a 
right to the command in chief, on the Ist of 
October we despatched an express to Major 
General Gates, informing him of our situation, 
and requesting him to send a general officer to 
take command of the whole. 

" In the mean time Ool. Campbell was chosen 
to act as commandant, until such general offi- 
cer should arrive. We marched to the Cotc- 
petis on Broad River, in South Carolina, where 
we were joined by Col, James WiUiams, with 
400 men, on the evening of the 6th of October, 
who informed us that the enemy lay encamped 
somewhere near the Cherokee Ford of Broad 
Rivei-, about 30 miles distant from us. By a 
council of xjrinoipal officers it was then thought 
advisable to pursue the enemy that night with 
900 of the best horsemen, and have the weal: 
horses and footmen to follow us as fast as possi- 
ble. We began our mai-ch with 900 of the best 
men about 8 o'clock the same evening, and 
marching all night, came up with the enemy 
about 3 o'clock, p. m., of the 7th, who lay en- 
camped on the top of King's Mountain, 12 miles 
north of the Cherokee Ford, in the confidence 
that they would not be forced from so advanta- 
geous a pass. Previous to the attack, on our 
march the following disposition was made : 
Col. Shelby's regiment formed a column in the 
centre on the left. Col. Campbell's regiment 
another on the right, while part of Colonel 
Cleaveland's regiment, headed ia front by Major 
Joseph Winston and Colonel Sevier formed a 
large column on the right wing. The other part 
of Cleaveland's regiment, headed by Colonel 
Cleaveland himself, and Col. Williams' regi- 
ment composed the left wing. In this order we 
advanced, and got within a quarter of a mile of 
the enemy before we were discovered. Col. 
Shelby's and Col. Campbell's regiments began 
the attack, and kept up a fire on the enemy 
while the right and left wings were advancing 
to surround them, which was done in about five 
minutes, and the fire became general all around. 
The engagement lasted an hour and few min- 
utes, the greater jjart of which time a heavy and 



incessant fire was kept up on both sides. Our 
men in some parts where the regulars fought, 
were obliged to give way a distance, two or three 
times, but rallied and returned with additional 
ardor to the attack. The troops upon the right 
having gained the summit of the eminence, 
obliged the enemy to retreat along the top of the 
ridge to where Col. Cleaveland commanded, and 
were there stopped by his brave men. A flag of 
truce was immediately hoisted by Captain De- 
peyster, the commanding officer (Major Fergu- 
son having been killed a little before), for a sur- 
render. Our fire immediately ceased, and the 
enemy laid down their arms (the greater part of 
them charged) and surrendered themselves pris- 
oners at discretion. It appears from their own 
provision returns for that day, found in their 
camp, that their whole force consisted of 1,125 
men. * * Total loss of the British, 1,105 men, 
killed, wounded, or made prisoners." 

"No battle during the war," says Mr. Los- 
sing, in his Field Book where we find the ijreced- 
ing report of the struggle at King's Mountain, 
" was more obstinately contested than this : for 
the Americans wore greatly exasperated by the 
cruelties of the Tories, and to the latter it was a 
question of life and death. It was with dif- 
ficulty that the Americans, remembering Tarle- 
ton's cruelty at Buford's defeat, could be re- 
strained from slaughter, even after quarter was 
asked. In addition to the loss of men on the 
part of the enemy mentioned in the report, the 
Americans took from them 1,500 stand of arms. 
The loss of the Americans in killed was only 
twenty, but they had a great number wounded." 
Battle fought Oct. 1, 1780. 

Crowder's Knob, the highest peak of King's 
Mountain, is about 3,000 feet above the level of 
the sea. 

The Mountain Gap, near the Cherokee Ford, 
the Great Falls ,of the Catawba, and Rocky 
Mount, the scene of "another of the partisan 
struggles, and Hanging Rock, where Sumter 
fought a desperate fight, are other interesting 
scenes and localities of this hill-region of 
Carolina. 



FLORIDA. 



1'lorida is much visited when cold winter winds and snows prevail, by those "who love mild 
and balmy atmospheres, and especially by invalids in quest of health-restoring climates. The 
villages of St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Pilatka and neighboring places, which are those most 
particularly sought, are near the Atlantic coast, in the extreme north-eastern part of the State. 



180 FLORIDA. 

They may be speedily and pleasantly reached by steamers from Charleston and Savannah, as we 
shall show, after a very hasty peep at the specialties in the history and character of the region. 

The shrine of the life and health-giving Goddess, Hygeia, -was sought nnder the southern skies 
of Florida centuries ago, as it is to-day. Ponce de Leon came here in 1512, hoping to find the 
fabled fountain of perpetual youth and strength. He was not so fortunate, though thousands of 
others have since been, in a grateful degree. 

After the brave De Leon, came Karvaez, more unlucky still, for when he had resolutely pene- 
trated to the interior with his four hundred gallant followers, no man ever heard of him or of them 
again. 

De Soto followed in 1539, with a not much happier reward, for though he subdued the savages 
and took possession of their land, it was only to leave it again and to pass on. Battle and strife have, 
with intervals of quiet, so characterized Florid.i, almost to the present day, that its name would 
seem but irony did it really refer, as is generally supposed, to the tioral vegetation of the soil, 
instead of to the simple happening of the discovery of the country on Pascua Florida or Palm 
Sunday. 

The earliest settlements in Florida were made by the French, but they were driven out by the 
Spaniards, who established themselves securely at St. Augustine in 1565, many years before any 
other settlement was made on the western shores of the Atlantic. Before the Revolution, Florida 
waiTed with the English Colonies of Carolina and Georgia, and passed into British possession in 
1763. It was reconquered by Spain in 17S1, and from that period untU within very late years, it 
has been the field of Indian occupation and warfare. The reconquest by Spain in 1781, was con- 
firmed in 1783, and in 1821 that power ceded the country to the United States. Its territorial or- 
ganization was made in 1822, and its admission into the Union as a State occurred March 3, 1S45. 
A sanguinary war was waged from 1S34 to 1S42, between the troops of the United States and the 
Indian occupants, the Seminoles, led by their famous chief Osceola. Since that period the savages 
have been removed to other territory, excepting some remnants still in possession of the impene- 
trable swamps and jungles of the lower portions of the State. 

Florida is the grand peninsula forming the extreme South-eastern part of the United States. 
Its entire area eastward lies upon the Atlantic, and the Gulf of Mexico washes almost the whole 
of the western side. Georgia and Alabama are upon the north. The country is for the most part 
level, being nowhere more than 250 or 300 feet above the sea. " The southern part of the penin- 
sula," says Mr. De Bow, in his "Resources of the South and West," "is covered with a large 
sheet of water called the Everglades— an immense area, filled with islands, which it is supposed 
may be reclaimed by drainage. The central poi-tion of the State is somewhat elevated, the highest 
point being about 171 feet above the ocean, and gradually declining towards the coast on either 
side. The country between the Suwanee and the Chatt.ihoochee is elevated and hilly, and the 
western region is level. The lands of Florid^a, Mr. De Bow continues, " are almost sui generis, 
very curiously distributed, and may be designated as high hummock, low hummock, swamp, 
savannas, and the different qualities of fine land. High hummock is usually timbered with live 
and other oaks, with magnolia, laurel, etc., and is considered the best description of land for gen- 
er.ll purposes. Low hummock, timbered with live and water oak, is subject to overflows, but 
when drained is preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the margins of streams and in det.iched bodies 
ai-e usually very rich and alluvious, yielding largely in dry seasons, but needing, at other times, 
ditching and dyking. Marsh savannas, on the borders of tide streams, are very valuable, when re^ 
claimed, for rice or sugar-cane. 

The sw.impy island-filled lake called the Everglades is covered with a dense jungle of vines 
and evergreens, pines and palmettos. It lies south of Okeohobee, and is 160 miles long and 60 
broad. Its depth varies from one to six feet. A rank tall grass springs from the vegetable 
deposits at the bottom, and rising above the surface of the water, gives the lake the deceitful air 



FLOEIDA. 



181 



of a beautiful verdant lawn. The soil is well adapted, it is thought, to the production of the 
plantain and the banana. 

In the interior of Florida there is a chain of lakes, of which the extreme southern link is Lake 
Okechobee, nearly 20 miles in length. Many of these waters are extremely picturesque in their 
own unique beauty of wild and rank tropical vegetation. 

The rivers of the State are numerous, and, like the lakes, present everywhere to the eye of the 
stranger very novel attractions, in the abundance and variety of the trees and shrubs and vines 
which line all their shores and bayous. The largest of the many rivers is the Appalachioola, 
which crosses the western arm of the State to the Gulf of Mexico. The St. Mary's is the boundary 
on the extreme northern corner, Georgia being upon the opposite bank. Its waters fall into the 
Atlantic, as do those of the St. Johns river, in the same section of the State. 



The St. Jolins River is the point to which 
we purpose to direct the more particular atten- 
tion of the tourist at this time, not for its own 
beauties' sake — for it is but a straggling, sluggish 
stream, possessing no very salient picturesque 
attractions — but as the access to the famous win- 
ter and invalid resorts of Florida, the villages 
of St. Augustine, JacksonviUe, Pilatka, and other 
places. 

Route to St. Augustine, etc. Two fine steamers 
leave Charleston, S. C, and three leave Savan- 
nah, Geo., every week for Pilatka, on the St. 
Johns River. Fare from either place to Pioco- 
lata (18 miles from St. Augustine), $8. From 
Piocolata to Augustine (3^ hours' stage) §1 to 
$2. Charleston steamers sometimes visit Au- 
gustine direct. 

The steamer Darlington leaves Jacksonville 
every Saturday morning for Enterprise, the pres- 
ent limit of steamboat navigation on the St. 
Johns, stopping at Pilatka over Sunday, resum- 
ing her voj'age Monday morning, and arriving 
at Enlerprise that (Monday) night. Returning, 
leaves Enterprise Wednesdays. Fare, $6. 

The St. Johns River comes from a marshy 
tract in the central part of the peninsula, flow- 
ing first north-west to the mouth of the Ochla- 
waha, and thence about northward to .Jackson- 
ville, and finally eastward to the Atlantic. It is 
navigated by steamboats only to Pilatka, though 
vessels drawing eight feet of water may pass up 
107 miles, to Lake George. The entire length 
of the river is 200 miles. The country which it 
traverses is covered chiefly with dank cypress 
swamps and desolate pine barrens. 

Jacksonville. —Hotels :— The only good 
hotel is the Judso?i House. 

Jacksonville, 25 miles from the mouth of the 
St. Johns, is the most important point on the 
river. It is a flourishing, busy town of from 
1,000 to 1,500 inhabitants, has numerous saw- 



mills, and considerable commerce. Many inva- 
lids remain here, and seek no further. 

The next in order, frequented by strangers, is 
Fleming^ s Island (47 miles up), situated at the 
confluence of Black Creek with the St. Johns. 
It is a quiet, home-like, and pleasant place, not 
infested by low company. 

Of Middleburgh, 16 miles up Black Creek, 
report speaks favorably. It has been but re- 
cently resorted to by invalids. It consists of a 
few houses only. 

Magnolia Mills (56 miles up the river), a large, 
solitary hotel, on the west bank of the St. Johns, 
is kept by Dr. Benedict, a northern physician, 
of established reputation. Good rooms and good 
entertainment m.ay be expected there. 

Next comes Piccolata (66 miles up), a village 
of but one house, where passengers for St. Au- 
gustine, 18 miles east, can generally get a tolera- 
ble night's lodging, when desired. 

Pilatka.— Hotels -.—Spear's House. 

Pilatka, on the west bank, 25 miles, or two 
hours, further south, is a new and thriving town, 
deriving considerable trade from the fertile back 
country. Here are two or three naore or less tol- 
erable places of entertainment. Passengers for 
Orange Springs and Ooala take stage here. 

"Welaka, on the east bank, is a new settle- 
ment. Every attention is shown to strangers by 
its gentlemanly proprietor — 110 miles up the St. 
.Johns. 

Enterprise, also on the east bank, on Lake 
Monroe, and the ultima thule of steamboat adven- 
ture, boasts a new, large, commodious, and well- 
kept hotel. The hunting and fishing are good in 
the vicinity — 180 miles up the river. 

Thirty miles east from Enterprise, on the sea- 
coast, and four miles from Mosquito Inlet, is 
New Smyrna, consisting of two houses. Reached 
by mail-w.igon, once a week. Mr. Sheldon enter- 
tains company, and ensures them capital sport. 



.182 



FLOEIDA. 



Mail boat leaves here for 
Becond week. 



Indian River every 



St. Augustine.— Hotels :— St. Augustine 
is well furnished with hotels and hoarding- 
houses, and there is unusually ample and com- 
fortahle accommodation for all comers. The 
principal hotels are the Magnolia, Buffington, 
proprietor— a well-huilt, well-kept, and well-fur- 
nished resort — and the Planters', Mrs. Loring, 
lessee, a popular house. 

Pirst-class boarding-houses are kept by Mrs. 
Keid, Mrs. Fazio, and Miss Mather. There ar« 
also others of less note. 

The hotel prices are $1 50 and $2 a day ; $9 
and $10 per week ; fir-i extra. The boarding- 
house charges are less, being from f6 upward. 

Visitors, unless more than ordinarily difficult 
and e.xacting, will lind the tables satisfactorily 
furnished ; admirably so, considering the isola- 
tion of the place, and its remoteness from mar- 
kets and commercial cities. The winter fare 
consists of groceries and butter from the north ; 
delicious fish and oysters, beef, game, poultry, 
venison, duck, wild turkey, and occasionally 
green turtle ; green peas and salads are rarely 
lacking, even in mid- winter ; game birds are 
abundant, such as quail, snipe, etc. 

St. Augustine is built along the seaward side 
of a narrow ridge of land, situated between salt 
marsh and estuary half a mile from the beach, 
two miles from the ocean, in sight of the bar and 
light-house, and within hearing of the surf. The 
soil is sandy loam and decomposed shell, and is 
very productive. Approaching by a bridge and 
causeway crossing the St. Sebastian River and 
marsh, we enter a well-shaded avenue, flanked 
by gardens and orange groves, which leads di- 
rectly to the centre of the quaint old city. Here 
is the public square, a neat enclosure of some 
two acres, facing which, on either side, stand the 
Court House, the Market and wharf, the Protest- 
ant Episcopal Cliurch — a plain building, in the 
pointed style, handsomely furnished — and, im- 
mediately opposite, the venerable Roman Catho- 
lic Church, a striking edifice of seemingly great 
antiquity, but built only about eighty years ago. 
It is of the periwig pattern, and in the worst 
possible taste. One of its bells bears date 1682. 
Connected with this church is a email convent 
and school. 

A minute's walk brings us to the sea-wall or 
breakwater, a broad line of massive masonry, 
built about 1840 by order of Go%-ernment, at 
great cost, for the protection of the city, but 
whose chief use is that of affording to the inhabi- 
tants the pleasantest promenade in fine weather. 
This wall extends half a mile southward to the 



now deserted barracks and magazine, and as far 
northward to Fort Marion, formerly St. Mark, a 
picturesque and decayed fortress, which once 
commanded the whole harbor, looming up out 
of the flat landscape, grand as a Moorish castle, 
and forming the most conspicuous and interest- 
ing relic of the Spanish occupation. 

Parallel to this sea-wall, run north and south, 
with short intersections, the three principal 
streets or lanes, long, narrow, without pavement 
or sidewalk, irregularly built up with " dumpy" 
but substantial houses, rather dingy and antedi- 
luvian, mostly of stone, or with the lower stories 
stone and the upper of wood. They have inva- 
riably the chimneys outside, and are ornamented 
with i^rojecting balconies and latticed verandas, 
from which the gay paint has long since faded, 
being all toned and weather-stained into one 
sombre gray hue, which, in keeping with the 
surroundings, is the joint result of age, neglect, 
sun, and saline air. Every house is separated 
from its neighbor by more or less of garden nlot, 
ill protected by broken fence and crumbling wall, 
wherein they raise two or more crops of vege- 
tables every year, figs in perfection, and roses in 
unmeasured abundance. 

Augustine is sometimes stjded the " Ancient 
City," and is, indeed, the oldest in the United 
States. Its appearance is in strict keeping with 
its venerable age, seen in the unequivocal marks 
of decay and decrepitation. Perhaps the friable 
nature of the common building material contrib- 
utes to this ruinous appearance, all the older 
houses being constructed of a stratified concrete 
of minute shell and sand called " coquina," in 
blocks conveniently obtained, easily worked, 
hardening by exposure, but abrading and crum- 
bling in course of time. And yet this material 
seems everlasting ; for the old stuff of dilapidated 
buildings, and houses disused by diminution of 
population, forms, by refacing, the excellent ma- 
terial for new. Coquina houses, however, are 
invariably dark, and always damp in winter, on 
which account frame dwellings, although not so 
cool summer houses, are much preferred by the 
innovating Yankees. But the Minorcan, or sub- 
Spanish population, still adhere to their tradi- 
tions, and refuse to be reformed. They build for 
the summer time — the longest season — and wisely 
build, when they do build, the same solid, squ.it, 
low-doored, narrow- windowed, disagreeably-dark 
and rheumatically-damp dwellings as ever. Vis- 
itors, however, in choosing winter quarters, will 
do well to prefer those hotels which are of frame, 
and have a cheerful sunny exposure. 

Northerners seeking in Florida a milder cli- 
mate and permanent winter residence, have gen- 
erally preferred St. Augustine. And with the 
best reason. The proximity of the Gulf Stream 



FLORIDA. 



183 



renders it warmer in winter and cooler in sum- 
mer than the settlements on the St. Johns River. 
It is at present the most southern habitable 
place on the eastern coast ; and it has peculiar 
advantages over all other towns in East Florida 
— in its churches, its company, and its comforts. 
Good society may always be had there ; the citi- 
zens are hospitable, and among the visitors are 
always some agreeable persons, cultivated and 
distinguished. 

Visitors begin to arrive about the holidays, 
and the first "stranger" is looked for with as 
much anxiety as the first Connecticut shad. 
From the middle of March imtil the middle of 
April is the height of the season, and then the 
hotels are crowded. Then, too, the city is gay. 
Everybody is sociable, idle, happy, sans souci. 
Pleasure parties you meet at every turn, groups 
on every corner, bathing in the sweet air that 
flows through shady streets from yon blue rush- 
ing sea. Deliciously fresh and mild is the atmo- 
sphere during the first spring heats. Then the 
soft south wind fills the senses with a voluptuous 
languor, and the evening land breeze comes laden 
with the fragrance of orange blossoms and the 
breath of roses. A moonlight walk upon the 
sea wall suggests the Mediterranean, and the 
illusion is heightened by the accents of a foreign 
tongue. 

The effect of these happy climatic and social 
conditions is v«ry noticeable. The most morose 
tempers seem to lose their acerbity, and even 
the despairing invalid catches the contagion of 
cheerfulness. 

Two-thirdt! of the population of Augustine 
(amounting to 1,300 whites) are of Spanish origin, 
and still speak the Spanish language. The 
women are pretty, modest, dark-eyed brunettes ; 
dress neatly in gay colors, are skillful at needle- 
work, and good housewives. The men exhibit 
equally characteristic traits of race and nation- 
ality. The people are generally poor. There 
are no manufactures. The town produces little, 
and exports nothing — its chief support, since the 
loss of its orange groves, being derived from 
Government offices, receipts from strangers, and 
the hire of slaves. It has one saw-mill, rarely 
running. It has a bathing-house, for the pre- 
vention of sickness, and three good physicians 
and a dentist to cure it. Perhaps no city in the 
Union is healthier than Augustine. 

St. Marys.— Hotels -.—Rail Road Hotel. 

St. Marys may be included in this region, 
though it lies in the State of Georgia, yet still 
near the north-east line of Florida. It is iipon 
the St. Marys River, nine miles from the sea. 
- The village is a pleasant one, and the healthful- 



ness of its climate makes it deservedly a place 
of invalid resort. 

Tallaliassee. — Hotels . — City Hotel. 

Tallahassee, the capital of Florida, is a pleas- 
ant city, of some 1,400 inhabitants, in the centre 
of the northern and most populous part of the 
State, near the head of the Gulf of Mexico. It 
is connected by railroad, 26 miles, with St. 
Marks, near the Gulf. It is regularly built 
upon a somewhat elevated site. Some of its 
public edifices are highly respectable, but do not 
call for any especial remark. 

Chief among the attractions of Tallahassee are 
the many beautiful springs found in the vicinity. 
Ten miles from the city is a famous fountain, 
called WachuUa. It is an immense limestone 
basin, as yet nnfathomed in the centre, with 
waters as transparent as crystal. 

St. Marks is on St. Marks River, near the 
Gulf of Mexico, and 26 miles from Tallahassee, 
by railroad. 

From Pensacola to Tallahassee, Flo. — To La 
Grange (on Choctawhatchie Bay), by steamboat, 
65 miles ; by stage to Holmes Valley, 25 ; Oakey 
Hill, 42 ; Marianna, 66 ; Chattahoochee, 90 ; 
Quincy, 108 ; Salubrity, 117 ; Tallahassee, 130. 

From Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Flo. — To the 
"White Sulphirr Spring, 82 miles. This curious 
spring rises in a basin ten feet deep and thirty in 
diameter ; it discharges a quantity of water, and 
after running a course of about 100 feet, enters 
the Suwanee River. The waters have been 
found very beneficial in cases of consumption, 
rheumatism, and a variety of other complaints. 
Visitors will find ample accommodation here. 
From the mineral spring to Madison, 35 miles ; 
Lipona, 73 ; Tallahassee, 08 — or 180 miles from 
Jacksonville. 

AppalacMcola.— Hotels :— 

Appalachicola is at the entrance of the river 
of the same name into the gulf of Mexico, 
through the Appalachicola Bay. It is easily 
accessible by the river and the Gulf, and is a 
place of large cotton shipments. It is 185 miles 
south-west of Tallahassee. 

Pensacola. — Hotels ■.—Bedell House, Win- 
ter's House, St. Mary's Hall. 

Pensacola is upon the Pensacola Baj', in the 
extreme south-west corner of the State, 10 miles 
from the Gulf of Mexico and 64 east of Mobile. 
The harbor here is one of the safest on the 
Florida coast, which is not remarkable for safe 
harbors. It is well sheltered by St. Rosa Island, 
and is defended by Forts Pickens, McCrea, and 



184 



FLOEIDA. — GEOE GIA- 



Barrancas. The population of Fensacola is about 
2,000. 

Route from Pensacula to Mobile, .Ate.— To 
Blakely, 50; Mobile, 64mile.s. 

Tampa is on Tampa, formerly Espiritu San- 
to Bay, whicli opens on the Gulf of Mexico, near 
the centre of the -western coast of Florida. 

Key West City is upon the island of Key 
"West, oil' the southern extremity of the penin- 
Bula, occupying the important post of key to the 
Gulf passage. It was first settled in 1822, and 
is now the most populous city of Florida, having 
a population of about 3,000. It is a military sta- 
tion of the United States. Some 30,000 bushels 
of salt are annually made at Key West by solar 
evaporation. Great quantities of sponges, too, 
are found and exported ; but the chief business 
of the island accrues from the salvages upon the 
•wrecks cast upon the coast. Forty or fifty ves- 



sels are every year lost in the vicinity, by which 
the island profits to the amount of $200,000. The 
Marine Hospital here, 100 feet long, is a note- 
worthy building. Fort Taylor, a strong and 
costly post, defends the harbor. The Charleston 
and Havana steamers touch at Key West once 
a week. There is no other reliable mode of ac- 
cess. 

A railway now extends from Fernandina on 
the Atlantic coast, south-westerly across the 
peninsula, to Cedar Keys on the Gulf of Mexico. 
Stage lines diverge to various points in the inte- 
rior. The Pensacola and Georgia Railway will 
cross the upper part of the State from Jackson 
west to Tallahassee. This route is at present in 
operation 25 miles from Tallahassee to Monti- 
cello. Other lines will soon connect Tallahassee 
with Pensacola, and with Savannah, Macon, &o. 



GEORGIA. 



This great State possesses unrivalled sources of prosperity and wealth, and though they are as 
yet only in the dawn of development, the traveller will not hesitate to predict for her a glorious 
future, when he ijotes the spirit of activity, enterprise, and progress, which so markedly distin- 
guishes her from other portions of the South. While Nature is here everywhere most prodigfd 
in means, man is earnest in improving them. With the will and energy of northern enterprise, 
utilizing the advantages of a southern soil, who can cipher out the grand result? 

Georgia was settled the latest of the "Original" Thirteen States of the Union. She derived 
her name with her charter from George II., June 9th, 1732. Her first colony was planted by 
General Oglethorpe, on the spot where the city of Savannah now stands, in 1773 ; sixty-three years 
after the settlement of South Carolina, and a century behind most of the original colonies. Three 
years after the arrival of Oglethorpe, Ebenezer was planted by the Germans, 25 miles up the 
Savannah River. Darien, on the sea, was commenced about the same time by a party of Scotch 
Highlanders. Among the early troubles of the colony was a war with the Spaniards in Florida, 
each party in turn invading the territory of the other. 

The people of Georgia took a vigorous part in the Revolution ; and the State was in possession 
of the British a portion of that time. The city of Savannah was taken by them, December 29th, 
1778. A bold attempt was made by the combined American and French forces to recapture it, 
but failed, with the loss to the allies of 1,100 men. The Great Cherokee Countrj'', in the upper 
part of the State, came into the fuU possession of the whites in 1838, when the Indians were 
removed to new homes beyond the Mississippi. 

The sea-coast of Georgia, extending about eighty miles, is very similar in character to that of 
the Carolinas, being lined with fertile islands cut oif from the main land by narrow lagoons or 
sounds. The famous sea-island cotton is grown here ; and wild fowl are abundant in all varieties. 
Upon the main, rice plantations ilourish, with all the semi-tropical vegetation and fruit which we 
Lave seen in the ocean districts of South Carolina. 

Passing northward to the central regions of the State, the cotton fields greet our eyes at every 
step, until the surface of the country becomes more and more broken and hilly, and, at last, verges 
upon the great hUl-region traversed by the Appalachian or Alleghany Mountains. These great 



GEOEaiA. 



185 



ranges occupy all the northern counties, and present to the charmed eye of the tourist, scenes of 
beauty and sublimity not surpassed in auy section of the Union. 

Rivers. — There are many fine rivers in Georgia ; but, as -with the water-courses of the South 
generally, they are often muddy, and their only beauty is in the rank vegetation of their shores, 
•with here and there a bold sandy bluff. 



The Savannah, divides the States of Georgia 
and South CaroUiia, through half their length. 
Its course, exclusive of its branches, is about 
450 miles. The cities of Augusta and Savannah 
are upon its banljs, and it enters the Atlantic 
18 miles below the latter place. From June to 
ISTovember it is navigable for large vessels as far 
as Savannah, and for steamboats up to Augusta, 
230 miles. The river voj'age between these 
points is a very pleasant one, presenting to the 
eye of the stranger many picturesque novelties, 
in the cotton fields which lie along the banks, 
through the upper part of the passage ; and in 
the rich rice plantations below. Approaching 
Savannah, the tourist will be particularly de- 
lighted with the mystic glens of the wild swamp 
reaches, and with the luxuriant groves of live- 
oak which shadow the ancient-looking manors 
of the planters. A few miles above the city of 
Savannah, he may visit the spot where Whitney 
invented and first used his wonderful cotton-gin. 
"Whitney was a Yankee schoolmaster of an in- 
quiring turn of mind, and it was during his in- 
tervals of rest from pedagogical rule, that he 
grew impatient of the slow process of picking 
the cotton-seed from the fibres with the fingers, 
and set himself to work so effectually to remedy 
the difficulty. A noble monument should mark 
the place, and commemorate the achievement ; 
but alas ! we live in an irreverent or a forgetful 
age and country. 

The alligator is often seen sunning himself on 
the shores of the lower waters of the Savannah, 
being abundant in the contiguous swamps. 
They are dangerous reptiles to deal with, espe- 
cially when in ill humor. We once saw a large 
Bpeoimen of this genus, who had swallowed, as 
his " post-mortem " discovered, a bottle of bran- 
dy and a certificate of membership in a Metho- 
dist church. The coroner's inquiry asked after 
the owners of the articles, but inference, only, 
answered the question. 

" When our canoe," says Sir Charles Lyell, in 
his record of travels in this region, "had pro- 
ceeded into brackish water, where the river 
banks consisted of marsh land, covered with a 
tall, reed-like grass, we came close to an alliga- 
tor, about nine feet long, basking in the sun. 
Had the day been warmer, he would not have 
allowed us to approach so near to him ; for these 
reptiles are much shyer than formerly, since 



they have learned to dread the avenging rifle ot 
the planter, whose stray hogs and sporting dogs 
they often devour. About ten years ago, Mr. 
Cooper tells us he saw two hundred of them to- 
gether in St. Mary's River, extremely fearless. 
The oldest and largest individuals on the Alta- 
maha have been killed, and they are now rarely 
twelve feet long, and never exceed sixteen and a 
half feet. As almost all of them heave been in 
their winter retreats ever since the frost of last 
month, I was glad that we had surprised one in 
his native haunts, and seen him plunge into the 
water by the side of our boat. Whffn I first read 
Bartram's account of alligators more than twen- 
ty feet long, and how they attacked his boat and 
bellowed like bulls, and made a sound like dis- 
tant thunder, I suspected him of exaggeration ; 
but all my inquiries here and in Louisiana con- 
vinced me that he may be depended upon. His 
account of the nests which they build in the 
marshes is perfectly correct. They resemble 
haycocks, about four feet high, and five feet in 
diameter at their bases, being constructed with 
mud, grass, and herbage. First they deposit 
one layer of eggs on a floor of mortar, and having 
covered this with a second stratum of mud and 
herbage eight inches thick, lay another set of 
eggs upon that, and so on to the top, there being 
commonly from one hundred to two hundred 
eggs in a nest. With their tails they then beat 
down round the nest the dense grass and reeds, 
five feet high, to prevent the approach of unseen 
enemies. The female watches her eggs until 
they are all hatched by the heat of the sun, and 
then takes her brood under her care, defending 
them, and providing for their subsistence. Dr. 
Luzenberger, of New Orleans, told me that he 
once packed up one of these nests, with the eggs, 
in a box for the Museum of St. Petersburgh, but 
was recommended, before he closed it, to see 
that there was no danger of any of the eggs be- 
ing hatched on the voyage. On opening one, a 
young alligator walked out, and was soon after 
followed by all the rest, about one hundred, 
which he fed in his house, where they went up 
and down the stairs, whining and barking like 
young puppies. They ate voraciously yet their 
growth was so slow as to confirm him in the 
common opinion, that individuals which have 
attained the largest size are of very great age; 
though whether they live for three centuries, as 



186 



GEORGIA. 



some pretend, must be decided liy future obser- 
vations." 

The Oconee rises in the gold lands of the 
mountain districts of Georgia, and traverses the 
State until it meets the Oijeechee, and with that 
river reaches the sea under the name of the Al- 
tainaha. Milledgeville, the caplt;il of Georgia, 
is upon the Oconee, 300 miles from the ocean ; 
and Athens, one of the most beautiful places in 
the State, and the seat of the University of Geor- 
gia, is also passed by its "waters. Small steam- 
boats may ascend the Oconee as far as Milledge- 
ville ; but now, with the more speedy travel by 
railway, there is little need of them. 

The Ockmulgee is navigable for email 
steamboats to Macon. 

The Flint River, in the western part of the 
State, passes by Lanier, Oglethorpe, and Albany, 
and uniting with the Chattahoochee, at the 
south-west extremity of the State, forms the Ap. 
palachicola. ,Tho length of the Flint River is 
about 300 miles. Its navigable waters extend 250 
miles, from the Gulf of Mexico to Albany. 

The Cliattahoocliee is one of the largest 
and most interesting rivers of Georgia. It pur- 
sues a devious way through the gold region 
westward from the mountains in the north 
eastern part of the State, and makes the lower 
half of the dividing line between Georgia and 
Alabama. At the point where it enters Florida, 
it is joined by the Flint River, and the united 
waters are thenceforward called the Appalachi- 
cola. The Chattahoochee is navigable for large 
steamboats as far up as Columbus, 350 miles 
from the Gulf of Mexico. The principal towns 
on this river besides Columbus, are Eufaula, 
"West Point, and Fort Gaines. 

Just above Columbus there are some pic- 
turesque rapids in the Chattahoochee, overlook- 
ed bj' a line rocky bluft", famous in story as the 
" Lover's Leap." The scene would be a gem in 
regions the most renowned for natural beauty. 
On the left, the river pursues its downward 
course to the city, in a straight line. Its flow is 
rapid and wild, broken by rocks, over which the 
W'ater frets and foams in angry surges. The bed 
of the stream is that of a deep ravine, its walls 
lofty and irregular clift's, covered to their verge 
with majestic forest gro'O'th. From this point 
the city of Columbus is but partially visible. 
The village of Girard and the surrounding hills 
on the Alabama side, forma distinct and beauti- 
ful background to the picture. The fine bridge 
which spans the river at Columbus, and the 
steamboats which bear the exchanges of wealth 
over the waters, are dimly seen through the 
mist which clothes the Falls of Coweta. 

Kail way Routes. The Georgia Railway 
extends, in a westerly du-ection, 171 miles from 



Augusta to Atlanta, passing through Belair, 
Berzelia, Bearing, Thomson, Camak, Gum- 
ming, Crawfordvilie, Union Point, Greensboro', 
Oconee, Buckhead, Madison, Rutledge, Social 
Circle, Covington, Conyer's, Lithonia, Stone 
Mountain, and Decatur. A branch line, 10 miles 
long, extends from Camak to Warrenton, the 
capitol of Warren Comity ; another of 18 miles 
from Cumming to Washington, the capital of 
Wilkes County ; another from Union Point to 
Athens, the capital of Clarke County. The 
road (the Georgia) connects at Augusta with 
the South Carolina road for Charleston. The 
Augusta and Waynesboro' extends 53 miles to' 
Millen, a station on the Central road, from 
Savannah to Macon Stations : Waynesboro', 
Thomas and Lumpkin. 

The Western and Atlantic Road extends from 
the Georgia Railway at Atlanta, 138 miles, north- 
ward to Chattanooga, Tennessee. Stations— At- 
lanta to Vining's,' 8 miles; Marietta, 20; Ac- 
worth, 35; AUatoona, 40 ; Cartersville,4Y • Cass, 
52 ; Kingston, 59 ; AdairsviUe, 69 ; Calhoun, 78 ; 
Resafa, 84 ; Tilton, 91 ; Dalton, 100 ; Tunnel! 
Hill, 107 ; Ringgold, 115 ; Johnson, 120 ; Chick- 
amanga, 128 ; Boyce, 133 ; Chattanooga, 138 
miles. This road is continued (from Dalton) by 
the East Tennessee and Georgia, to Knoxville, 
Tennessee. 

The Ro7ne Railway deflects from the Western 
and Atlantic at Kingston, and extends 20 miles 
to Rome. 

The Atlanta and Lagrange Road extends from 
the Georgia Road at Atlanta, 87 miles to West 
Point, from whence it is continued by other 
routes to Montgomery, Alabama. Stations— At- 
lantato East Point, 6 miles ; Fairburn, 18 ; Pal- 
metto, 25 ; Powell's, Newnan, 40 ; Grantville, 
52 ; HogansvUle, 59 ; Lagkange, 72 ; Long Cane, 
78 ; West Point, 87 miles. 

The Central Railway extends 191 miles from 
Savannah to Macon. Stations — Savannah to 
Eden, 20 miles ; Guyton, 30 ; Egypt, 40 ; Arme- 
nia, 46 ; Halcyondale, 50 ; Ogeechee, 62 ; Scar- 
boro', 71 ; Millen, 79 (branch road 53 miles to 
Augusta); Cushingville, 83 ; Birdsville, 90 ; Mid- 
ville, 94 ; Holcomb, 108 ; Speir's Turnout, 112 ; 
Davisboro', 123 ; Tennllle, 136 ; Oconee, 146 ; 
Emmett, 153 ; Kingston, 160 ; Gordon, 171 
(branch to Milledgeville and Eatonton) ; Gris- 
woldville, 182 ; Macon, 191 miles. 

Milledgeville and Eatonton Branch of Central 
Road. Stations— Gordon to Wolsey, 9 miles ; 
Milledgeville, 18 ; Dennis, 29 ; Eatonton, 38 
miles. 

Macon and Western extends 101 miles from 
Macon to Atlanta, terminus of Georgia railway. 
Stations — Macon, Junction, Howard's, 6 miles ; 
Crawford's, 13 miles ; Bmarr's, 19 ; Forsyth, 24 ; 



GEOEGIA. 



187 



Collier's, 30 ; Goggin's, BarnesvillG, 40 ; Milner's, 
47 ; Thornton's, Griffen, 58 ; Fayette, 65 ; Love- 
joy's, Joucsboro', 79 ; Eougli and Ready, 90 ; 
Kast Pond, 95 ; Atlanta, 101 miles. 

The Muscogee Railway extends from Macon, 
terminus of Central road, 99 miles, to Columbus, 
"with Branch to Americus. Stations — Macon to 
Echcconnee, 17 miles ; Mule Creek, 21 ; Fort 
Valley, 28 (Americus Branch) ; Everett's, S5 ; 
Reynolds', 41 ; Butler, 50 ; Columbus, 99 miles. 

The South-Western (or Americus Branch of 
Muscogee) station as above, from M.acon to Fort 
Valley, 28 miles ; thence to Marshallville, 7 ; 
"Winchester, 9 ; ()glethorpe, 21 ; Anderson, 30 ; 
Americus, 41 ; Sumter, 51 ; Albany, 76 miles. 

The Savannah, Albany and Gulf Road 'will 
connect Savannah and Tallaliassee. It extends 
at present from Savannah 107 miles to McDon- 
ald's Station, from which point a line of stages 
runs to Thomasville, 110 miles, passing through 
Mill Town and Troupville, and connecting with 
stages for Tallahassee and other places in Flori- 
da. Various deflections from the routes we have 
here named are in progress or in contemplation 
in Georgia, all confirming the reputation of the 
State as the Southern leader in this great field 
of human enterprise and jprogress. 

Savannah.. — Hotels : — The principal ho- 
tels, and they are most excellent ones, are the 
Pulaski House ia Johnson or Monument Square, 
the City Hotel in Bay street, and the Screven 
House. They arc all eligibly and pleasantly sit- 
uated in the heart of the city. 

Savannah, the largest city of Georgia, with a 
population of about 16,000 whites and 12,000 
blacks, is upon the south bank of the Savannah 
river, 18 miles from the sea. Its site is a sandy 
terrace, some forty feet above low water mark. 
It is regularly built, with streets so wide and so 
Tinpaved — so densely shaded with trees, and so 
full of little parks, that but for the extent and 
elegance of its public edifices, it might seem to 
te an overgrown village, or a score of villages 
rolled into one. There are no less than twenty- 
four little green squares scattered through the 
city, and most of the streets ai-e lined with the 
fragrant flowering China tree, or the Pride of 
India, while some of them, as Broad and Bay 
streets, have each four grand rows of trees, there 
being a double carriage-way, with broad walks 
on the outsides, and a promenade between. 

Among the public buildings of note in Savan- 
nah are the new Custom House, the City Ex- 
change, Court House and Theatre, the State 
Arsenal, the Armory, the Oglethorpe and the 
St. Andrew's Halls, the Lyceum, the Market 



House, 'and the Chatham Academj'. The St. 
John's (Episcopal) Church, and the Independent 
Presbyterian Church, are striking ediflces. Tho 
city has, besides, a dozen other Protestant and 
some Catholic churches, and a Jewish Sj'na- 
gogue. The State Historical Society has a fine 
Library. The public Library has over 7,000 vol- 
umes. There are also other literary associations 
and reading-rooms. The principal charitable in- 
stitutions of the city are the Orphan Asylum, 
the Hibernian and Seaman's Friend Societies, 
the Georgia Infirmary, the Savannah hospital, 
the Union and the Widow's Societies, and the 
Savannah Free School. 

In Johnson or Monument Square, opposite 
the Pulaski House, there is a fine Doric Obelisk 
erected to the memories of Greene and Pulaski, 
the corner stone of which was laid by Lafayette 
during his visit in 1825. It is a marble shaft, 53 
feet in height. The base of the pedestal is 10 ft. 
4 in. by 6 ft. 8 in., and its elevation is about 12 
feet. The needle which surmounts the pedestal 
is 37 feet high. Another and very elegant struc- 
ture has since been built in Chippewa Square, to 
the memory of Pulaski. This general fell gal- 
lantly during an attack tipon the city, while it 
was occupied by the British in the year 1779. 

The vicinage of Savannah, "though flat, is ex- 
ceedingly picturesque along the many pleasant 
drives, and by the banks of tho river and its 
tributary brooks, leading everywhere through 
noble avenues of the live oaks, the bay, the mag- 
nolias, the orange and a hundred other beautiful 
evergreen trees, shrubs and vines. 

The Cemetery of Bonaventure, close by, is a 
wonderful place. It was originally a private 
estate, laid out in broad avenues, which cross 
each other These avenues are now grand for- 
est aisles, lined with live oaks of immense size ; 
their dense leafage mingling overhead, and the 
huge lateral branches trailing upon the ground 
with their own and the superadded weight of 
the heavj' festoons of the pendant Spanish moss. 
A more Ijeautiful or more solemn home for the 
dead than in the shades of these green forest 
aisles, cannot be well imagined. The endless 
cj'press groves of the " silent cities" by the Bos- 
phorus, are not more impressive than the intri- 
cate web of these still forest walks. 

Bonaventure has thus been sketched by Btar- 
light : 

" Along a corridor I tread, 

High over-arched by ancient trees, 
"Where, lilie a tapestry o'erhead, 

The gray moss floats upon the breeze : 
A -wavy breeze which kissed to-day 

Tallulah's falls of flashing foam, 
JLnd sported in Toccoa's spray — 

Brings music from its mountain home. 



188 



GEOEGIA. 



"The clouds are floating o'er the sky, 

And cast at times a fllful gloom,— 
As o'er our hearts dark memories fly, 

Cast deeper shades on Tatnall's tomb; 
■While glimmering onward to the sea. 

With scarce a rippling wave at play, 
A line of silver through the lea,j 

The river stretches far away." * 

Savannah was founded by General Oglethorpe 
in 1732. It was occupied in 1778 by the British, 
and came back into the possession of the Amer- 
icans in 1783. But few Revolutionary remains 
are now to be seen, the city having overgrown 
most of them. Batteries, ramparts, and re- 
doubts have given place to the more pleasant 
Bights of fragrant gardens and shady parks. 
Mounds and "ditches, however, may be traced 
near the edge of tbe swamp, south-east of the 
town. Jasper''s Sprijig, tlie scene of a brave and 
famous exploit of the war time, may yet be visit- 
ed. It lies near the Augusta road, two miles and a 
half from the city westward ; the spring is a 
fountain of purest water, in the midst of a 
marshy spot, covered with rank shrubbery, at 
the edge of a forest of oak and pine trees. The 
interest of the place is in its association only. 
Sargent Jasper, aided only by one companion, 
watched by this spring for the passage of an 
American prisoner, under a British guard of 
eight men, whom he boldly and successfully as- 
sailed, restoring the captive to his country and 
his friends. In memory of tbis action, Sargent 
Jasper's name has been given to one of the pub- 
lic parks of the city. 

Savannah is one of the healthiest of the south- 
ern cities, and its climate is constantly improv- 
inff, owing, it is said, to the improved manner of 
cultivating the great rice lands in the neighbor- 
hood. Ko pleasanter winter home for invalids 
or others can be found : for, to the balmy climate 
of the region, and every appliance of physical 
comfort, there are superadded extraordinary so- 
cial attractions in the cultivated manners and 
the hospitable hearts of the people. 

Routes from Savannah. — Georgia is famous 
the Union over for her railroad enterprise. In 
this respect, at least, she leads all the southern 
States. Her endless rails traverse her borders, 
and especially in the central and northern por- 
tions, in everj' direction ; linking all her towns 
and districts to each other, and with all the sur- 
rounding States. Between ten and eleven thou- 
sand miles of railroad — either finished, or being 
built — now centre in Savannah, communicating 
thence, directly or indirectly, with Macon and 

* Bonaventure is upon the Warsaw River, ■which may he 
eeen gleaming through the forest passages. "Tatnall's 
tomb," a family vault of the former possessors of the spot, 
■was here, alone, before its adoption as a public cemetery. 



Columbus, and with Montgomery in Alabama, 
with Augusta, Atlanta, and onward to Tennes- 
see, etc. Roads, too, are in process of construc- 
tion, and nearly completed to Charleston and to 
Pensacola and other xjoints in Florida. 

The Central Railroad extends from Savannah, 
192 miles, to Macon, with Branch deflecting from 
Waynesborough to Augusta, and another to Mil- 
ledgeville. It unites also with the South-West- 
erii road, to be extended west to the Chattahoo- 
chee river ; and from that route by the Mus- 
cogee road to Columbus. The Macon and 
Western links the Central road from Savannah 
with the Georgia railroad from Augusta at At- 
lanta ; the "Western and Atlanta prolongs it 
thence to Chattanooga in Tennessee, and by 
other routes to Knoxville. All these and other 
routes we shall duly follow as we continue our 
jotmiey through the south and south-west. 

Florida is reached at Jacksonsville, St. Au- 
gustine, and other places, by regular tri-week- 
fy tteamers from Savannah, ^ee chapter on 
Florida. 

Aug-usta.— Hotels .—The Planter's — a first 
class house. 

Augusta, one of the most beautiful cities in 
Georgia, and the second in population and im- 
portance, is on the eastern boundary of the State, 
upon the banks of the Savannah River, and at 
the head of its navigable waters, 120 miles n. n. 
w. from Savannah, and 136 n. w. from Charles- 
ton, with both of which cities it has long been 
connected by railroad. Augusta has now a pop- 
ulation of over 13,000, and it is every year great- 
ly increasing. The principal street, parallel 
with the river, is a noble avenue, in length and 
breadth. This is the Broadway of the city, 
wherein all the shopping and promenading are 
done, and where the banks, and hotels, and mar- 
kets are to bo found. Of late years, Augusta 
has spread itself greatly over the level lands 
westward. 

A pleasant ride of two or three miles from the 
heart of the town, brings us to a lofty range of 
sand-hills, covered with charming summer resi- 
dences. This high ground is in healthful atmos- 
pheres, even when epidemics prevail — as they 
very rarely do, however— in the city streets be- 
low. 

There are delightful drives along the banks 
of the Savannah, particularly below the city; 
and across the river at Hamburg there are some 
beautiful wooded and grassy terraces, known as 
Shultz's Hill, and much resorted to as a pic-nio 
ground. 

Augusta has some fine public buildings and 
churches. The City Hall, built at a cost of 



GEOEGIA. 



189 



$100,000, the Medical College, the Richmond 
Academy, and tlie Masonic Hall, are every way 
creditable to the architectural taste and the lib- 
erality of the people. The churches are about 
fifteen in numljer. There are also here an arse- 
nal and hospital, and gas works. 

The rapid development of the up-country of 
Georgia, within a few years, has brought down 
to Augusta, by her I'ailways, great prosperity ; 
and the water power which has been secured by 
means of a canal, which brings the upper floods 
of the Savannah River to the cit3'-, at an elevation 
of some forty feet, is enlarging and enriching it 
by extensive and profitable manufactures. This 
canal, 9 miles in length, was constructed in 
1845. 

Routes from Augusta. — To Charleston by the 
South Carolina Railway ; to Savannah by the 
Central road and the Waynesboro' Branch, 
and by steamers down the Savannah ; to Atlanta 
by the Georgia Railway, and thence into Ala- 
bama or Tennessee by connecting lines ; to Ma- 
con, Athens, Columbus, and most of the north- 
ern towns, by deflecting or intersecting lines of 
the Georgia road. See Index for the various 
routes, places, and scenes. 

Macon. — Hotels : — The Lanier House. 

Macon is on the Ockmulgee, 191 miles west- 
north-west of Savannah, by the Central Railway, 
of which It is the northern terminus. Prom 
Augusta, by the Augusta and Waynesboro', 
53 miles, to Milieu, on the Central Railway ; 
thence, 112, by the Central road from Savan- 
nah. Total distance from Augusta, 165 miles ; 
from Milledgeville (the capital), by railway, 38 
miles ; from Atlanta, on the Georgia Railway, 
101 miles ; from Columbus, by the Muscogee 
and South-western railways, 99 miles. The 
South-western extends (at present) to Americus, 
71 miles from Macon, uniting with the Muscogee 
for Columbus at Fort Valley. Macon is one of 
the chief cities in Georgia, in population (about 
9,000). It is a prosperous commercial place, and 
a great cotton mart. The Georgia Female Col- 
lege is located here. Rose Hill Cemetery, on the 
Ockmulgee, is a pretty rural bit of native wood- 
land. Lamar's Mound is a high rising ground, 
covered with fine private residences, continued 
by the pleasant suburban village of Vineville. 

Columbus is on the Chattahoochee River, 
the western boundary of the State ; 290 miles 
from Savannah, by the Central, the South-west- 
ern, and the Muscogee Railways, via Macon ; 
from Augusta, 2G4 miles, by the Augusta and 
Waynesboro', the Central, the South-western, 
and the Muscogee Railway, or 310 milea by 
the Georgia Railway to Atlanta, thence by the 



Atlanta and Lagrange, and the Montgomery and 
West Point, via Opelica, Alabama ; from Ma- 
con, by railway, 99 miles ; from Atlanta, 139 ; 
from Montgomery, Alabama, by railway, 92 
miles. Columbus is a handsome commercial 
city, of some 9,000 inhabitants. Large quantities 
of cotton are shipped hence for the Gulf of Mex- 
ico, via the Chattahoochee. See Chattahoochee 
River for picturesque scenes in this neighbor- 
hood. Girard, Alabama, is connected with Co- 
lumbus by a fine bridge. 

Atlanta. — Hotels •.— Trout House. 

Atlanta is a new and thriving city, at the west- 
ern terminus of the Georgia Railway. Distance 
by that route, 171 miles from Augusta ; from Ma- 
con (railway), 101 miles, and from Savannah (rail- 
way), via Macon, 292 miles. The raUway routes 
of Tennessee and of Virginia meet at Atlanta ; 
also railways from Columbus and from Mont- 
gomery, Alabama. Atlanta, not many years ago 
wild forest-land, has already attained to a popu- 
lation of 16,000. 

Athens. — Hotels : — Lanier House. 

Athens is a beautiful up-country town on the 
Oconee River. From Augusta, by the Georgia 
Railway, to Union Point, 70 miles ; thence by 
the Athens branch, 43 miles. Total, 113 miles 
from Savannah, by railwaj^, via Augusta. Ath- 
ens is the seat of Franklin C!ollege,the Universi- 
ty of Georgia. 

Milledgeville. — Hotels : — Milledgeville 
Hotel; McCo?nO's Hotel; Washington Hall. 

Milledgeville, the capital of Georgia, a town of 
about 3,000 people, is upon the Oconee River, in 
the midst of a fine cotton-growing region. From 
Savannah, by the Central Railway, to Gordon, 
171 miles, and thence by the Milledgeville and 
Eatonton, IS miles. Total, 189 miles. From 
Augusta, by the Augusta and Waynesboro', 
to Millen, on the Central road, 53 miles ; thence 
by the Central (as from Savannah). Total dis- 
tance from Augusta, 163 miles ; from Columbus, 
135 miles, and from Atlanta, 139 miles. 

The Capitol at Milledgeville is a large eemi- 
Gothic structure. 

The Oglethorpe University is at Mid- 
way, a pretty village on the railway, 1^- miles 
below Milledgeville. 

The Mountain Region of Georgia.— 
Throughout all Northern Georgia, the traveller 
will find a continuation of the charming Blue 
Ridge landscape, which we have already ex- 
plored in the contiguous regions of Upper South 
Carolina, and North Carolina West. This pic- 



190 



GEOEGIA. 



turesque district in tlie "Pine State" extends 
from Ilabun County, in the north-eastern corner 
of the State, to Dade, in the extreme nortli-west, 
■where the summit of the Lookout Mountain 
oversees tlie vallej' of the Tennessee. Here are 
the famous gold lands, and in the midst of them 
the Dahlouoga branch of the United States 
Mint. 

The most frequenteJ, if not the finest scenes 
in this neighborhood are in the north-east, as the 
■wonderful Falls of Tallulah and Toccoa, the val- 
ley of Nacochee and Mount Touah in Haber- 
eham County, the Cascades of Eastatoia and tlie 
great Rabun Gap in Rabun ; all ■u'ithin a day's 
ride of the Table Mountain, Caesar's Head, Jo- 
casse, the AVhite-wator Falls, and other wonders 
of South Carolina. Further west are the Falls 
of Amicalolah, tho Cahutta Mountain, the 
Dogwood Valley, and Mount Look-out. This 
■n-as formerly the hunting-ground of the Chero- 
kees ; and, indeed, not many years have passed 
since the final removal of this tribe to ne-w homes 
beyond the Mississippi. 

Clarksville, a pleasant -village in Haber- 
sham County, is a favorite summer residence of 
the people of the " Low country " of Georgia, and 
the point of rendezvous for the exploration of 
the landscape of the region— the point from 
whence to reach Tallulah, Tuccoa, Nocoochee, 
etc. From Cliarleston or Columbia, or other 
places in South Carolina, follow the railways to 
Greenville or to Anderson, S. C, and proceed 
thence by stage, one to two days' ride, to Clarks- 
ville ; or take tho Georgia railways from Augus- 
ta to Athens, and thence by stage, one or two 
days' travel, to Clarksville, passing the Madison 
Springs, Mount Currahee, and Toccoa. 

Toccoa Falls (for route see Clarksville, 
above), is in the County of Habersham, a few 
miles from the village of ClarKsville. 

The late Judge Charlton, describing this fa- 
mous scene, says : 

Several years have passed away since I last 
stood at the beautiful Fall of the Toccoa. It was 
one of the delightful summer days peculiar to 
the climate of Hebersham County. The air had 
all' the elasticity of the high region that sur- 
rounded us, and the scenery was of a character 
to elevate our spirits and enliven our fancy. 

A narrow passage led us from the road-side to 
the foot of the Fall. Before us appeared the per- 
pendicular face of rock, resembling a rugged 
etone wall, and over it, 

" The brook came babbling down tbe mountain's side." 

The stream had lost much of its fulness from 
the recent dry weather, and as it became lashed 
into fury, by its Budden fall, it resembled a silver 



ribbon, hung gracefully over the face of tho 
rock, and waving to and fro with the breath of 
the wind. It reminded me more forcibly than 
any other scene I had ever beheld, of the poetic 
descriptions of fairy -land. It is just such a place 
— as has been often remarked by others — where 
we might expect the fays and elves to assemble 
of a moonlight night, to hold their festival on the 
green bank, whilst the spray, clothed with all 
the varied colors of the rainbow, formed a halo 
of glory around their heads. It is, indeed, beau- 
tiful, surpassingly beautiful : the tall trees reach- 
ing but half-way up the mountain height, the sil- 
ver cascade foaming o'er the brow of the hill, 
the troubled waves of the mimic sea beneath, the 
lulling sound of the falling water, and the call of 
the mountain birds around you, each and all 
come ■with a soothing power upon the heart, 
which makes it anxious to linger through the 
long hours of the summer day. 

Tearing ourselves away from the enchantment 
that held us below, we toiled our way up to the 
top of the Fall, using a path that wound around 
the mountain. When we reached the summit, 
we trusted ourselves to such support as a small 
tree, which overhangs the precipice, could give 
i?3, and looked over into the basin beneath. 
Then, growing bolder as our spirits rose with 
the excitement of the scene, we divested our- 
selves of our boots and stockings, and waded 
into the stream, until we approached within a 
few feet of the cascade. This can be done with 
but little danger, as the brook keeps on the even 
and unruffled tenor of its way until just as it 
takes its lofty plunge into the abyss below. 

The height of the Fall is now 186 feet ; for- 
merly it was some feet higher, but a portion of 
the rock was detached some years ago by the 
attrition of the water, and its fall has detracted 
from the perpendicular dcBcent of the stream. 

" Beautiful streamlet ! onward glide, 
In thy destined course to the ocean's tide I 
So youth impetuous, longs to be — 
Tossed on the waves of manhood's sea : 
But weary soon of cloud and blast, 
Sighs for the haven its barii hath passed ; 
And though thou rushest now with glee, 
By hiU and plain to seeli the sea — 
No lovelier spot again thou'lt find, 
Than that thou leavest here behind ; 
Where hill and rocli 'rebound the call' 
Of clear Toccoa's water-falU" 

There are picturesque legends connected with 
this winsome spot ; one of them narrates the 
story of an Indian chief and his followers, who, 
bent upon the extermination of the whites, and 
trusting to the guidance of a woman, was led by 
her over the precipice, and, of course, perished 
ia their fall. 



GEOEGIA. 



191 



The Oataracts of Tallulah. are 12 miles 
from Clarksville (see route to Clarksville), by a 
road of very varied beauty. From Tocooa to 
Tallulali the cut across is five or six miles only. 
There is a comfortable hotel near the edge of the 
gorges traversed by this wild mountain stream, 
and hard by its army of waterfalls. 

The Tallulah or Terrora, as the Indians more 
appositely called it, is a small stream, which 
rushes through au awful chasm in the Blue 
Ridge, rending it for several miles. The ravine 
is 1,000 feet in depth, and of a similar width. 
Its walls are gigantic cliffs of dark granite. The 
heavy masses piled upon each other in the wild- 
est confusion, sometimes shoot out, overhanging 
the yawning gulf, and threatening to break from 
their seemingly frail tenure, and hurl themselves 
headlong into its dark depths. 

Along the rocky and uneven bed of this deep 
abyss, the infuriated Terrora frets and foams 
with ever- varying course. Now, it flows in sul- 
len majestjr, through a deep and romantic glen, 
embowered in the foliage of the trees, which 
here and there spring from the rocky ledges of 
the chasm walls. Anon, it rushes with acceler- 
ated motion, breaking fretfully over protruding 
rocks, and uttering harsh murmurs, as it verges 
a precipice, 

" 'Where, collected all, 
In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round : 
At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad ; 
Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls, 
And from the loud-resounding rocks below 
Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower." 

The most familiar point of observation is the 
Pulpit, an immense cliff which projects far into 
the chasm. From this position, the extent and 
depth of the fearful ravine, and three of the most 
romantic of the numerous cataracts are observ- 
ed. At various other localities fine glinipses 
down into the deep gorge are afforded, and nu- 
merous other paths lead to the bottom of the 
chasm. At the several cataracts — the Lodore, 
the Teynpesta, the Oceana, the Serpentine, and 
others, — the picture is ever a new and striking 
one — which the most striking and beautiful, it 
would be very difficult to determine. The nat- 
ural recess called the Trysting Rock, once the 
sequestered meeting-place of Indian lovers, is 
now a halting-spot for merry groups as they de- 
scend the chasm, just below the Lodore cascade. 
From this point, Lodore is upon the left, up the 
stream ; a huge perpendicular wall of parti-col- 
ored rock towers up in front and below ; to the 
right are seen the foaming waters of the Oceana 
cascade, and the dark glen into which they are 



surging their maddened way. Tempeeta, the 
Serpentine, and other falls, lie yet below. 

The wild grandeur of this mountain gorge, and 
the variety, number, and magnificence of its cat- 
aracts, give it rank with the most imposing wa- 
terfall scenery in the Union. 

The Valley of Nacoocliee, or the Eve- 
ning Star, is said by tradition to have won its 
name from the story of the hapless love of a 
beauteous Indian princess, whose sceptre once 
ruled its solitudes. With or without such asso- 
ciations, it will be remembered with pleasure by 
all whose fortune it may be to see it. The valley- 
passages of the South are specialties in the land- 
scape, being often BO small and so thoroughly and 
markedly shut in, that each forms a complete 
picture, neither naore nor less, in itself. The 
httle vale of Jooassee, in South Carolina, is such 
a scene, and that of Nacooohee is another, and 
yet finer example. 

Nacooohee, like Tallulah and Toccoa, is a 
matter of a day's excursion from Clarksville. 

ISIount Yonah. looks down into the quiet 
heart of Nacoochee, lying at its base. If tho 
tourist should stay over-night in the valley, as ho 
will be apt to do, he will take a peep at the 
mountain ijanorama to be seen from the summit 
of old Jonah. 

The Falls of the Eastatoia are some 
three or four miles from the village of Clayton, 
in Rabun, the extreme north-eastern county of 
Georgia. They lie off the road to the right, in 
the passage of the Rabun Gap, one of the moun- 
tain ways from Georgia into North Carolina. 
Clayton may be reached easily from Clarksville, 
the next town southward, or in a ride of 12 mUea 
from.the Falls of Tallulah. 

The village of ClaytiOn is an out-of-the-way 
little place, occupying the centre of a valley com- 
pletely encircled by lofty mountain ranges. 

The Eastatoia, or the Rabun Falls, as thej'- are 
otherwise called, would be a spot of crowded re- 
sort, were it in the midst of a more thickly peo- 
pled country. The scene is a succession of 
cascades, noble in volume and character, down 
the ravined flanks of a rugged mountain height. 
From the top of one of the highest of the falls, 
a magnificent view is gained of the valley and 
waters of the Tennessee, north of the village 
of Clayton, and the hills which encompass it. 

In the neighborhood of Eastatoia, and, indeed, 
all through Rabun County, the traveller will find 
everywhere delightful hill, valley, ,and brook 
scenery. "We once traversed all the'^-egion lei- 
surely, and with great pleasure, en route from 
Clarksville to the French Broad River, in North 
Carolina. 

Mountain Accommodations. Wo 



192 



GEORGIA. 



ought, perhaps, to remind the traveller, that 
•when he leaves the frequented routes here- 
ahouta, or anywhere among the Southern hills, 
he must voj'age in his own conveyance, wagon 
or horseback (the latter the better), stop for the 
night at any cabin near which the twilight may 
find him, content himself with such fare as he 
can get (we won't discourage him by presenting 
the carte), aud pay for it moderately when he 
resumes his journey in the morning. 

Union County, lying upon the north-west line 
of Habersham, is distinguished for natural 
beauty, aud for its objects of antiquarian in- 
terest. 

The Track Hock, in Union, bearing won- 
derful impressions of the feet of curious animals 
now extinct, must be seen to be believed. 

Pilot Mountain, also in Union, is a noble 
elevation of some 1,200 feet. 

Hiawassee Fails, in the Hiawassee River ; 
there are some beautiful cascades, some of them 
from 50 to 100 feet in lieigbt. 

The Palls of Amicalolah. are in Lump- 
kin County, south-west of Habersham. They lie 
gome 17 miles west of the village of Dahlonega, 
near the State road leading to East Tennessee. 
The name is a compormd of two Cherokee words 
— " Ami," signlfj-ing water, and " Calolah," roll- 
ing or tumbling ; strikingly expressive of the 
cataract, and affording us another instance of the 
simplicity and significant force of the names 
conferiedby the untutored Bons_ of the forest. 

The visitor will rein up at the nearest fami- 
house, and make his way thence, either up the 
Kattlesnake Hollow to the base of the Falls, or 
to the summit. The range of mountains to the 
south and west, as it strikes the ej-e from the 
top of the falls, is truly sublime ; and the scene 
is scarcely surpassed in grandeur by any other, 
even in this counti-y of everlasting hills. The 
view from the foot embraces, as strictly regards 
the falls themselves, much more than the view 
from above, and is therefore, perhaps, the better ; 
both, however, should be obtained in order to 
form a just conception of the scene ; for here we 
have a succession of cataracts and cascades, the 
greatest not exceeding 60 feet, but the torrent, in 
the distance of 400 yards, descending more than 
as many hundred feet. This creek has its source 
upon the Blue Ridge, several miles east of the 
falls ; and it winds its way, fringed with wild 
flowers of the richest dyes, and kissed in autumn 
by the purple wild-grapes which cluster over its 
transparent bosom ; and so tranquil and mirror- 
like is its surface, that one will fancj' it to be a 
thing of life, conscious of its proximate fate, 
rallying all its energies for the startling leap ; 
and he can scarcely forbear moralizing upon the 
oft-recurring and striking vicissitudes of human 



life, as illustrated in the brief career of this 
beautiful streamlet. 

From an elevated point, attained in ascending 
the mountain on the east, Dahlonega, embosomed 
in its lovely hilis, is distinctly visible ; several of 
the principal buildings are distinguishable — 
among them, the United States Branch Mint. 

The Look-out Moimtain. On the sum- 
mit of this beautiful spur, the north-west corner 
of Georgia and the north-east extremity of Ala- 
bama meet on the southern boundary of Ten- 
nessee. Almost in the shadow of the Look-out 
heights lies the busy town of Chattanooga, in 
Tennessee, on the great railway route from 
Charleston via the Georgia roads to Knosville, 
and thence by the Virginia railways to .the 
north ; and on the other hand westward, through 
Nashville, to the Ohio and the Mississippi. See 
Chattanooga in the chapter on Tennessee. 

The country around the "Look-out" is ex- 
tremely picturesque ; the views all about the 
mountain itself are admirable, and nothing can 
exceed in beauty the charming valley of the 
Tennessee and its waters, as seen from its lofty 
summit. It is, too, in the immediate vicinage 
of other remarkable localities, the Dogwood 
Valley, hard by ; Georgia and the Nickajack 
Cave in Alabama. 

The Nickajack Cave. The mouth of this 
wonderful cavern which has only to be known 
in order to be famous, is in Alabama, although 
otherwise it traverses Georgia territory. We 
leave it, therefore, for our chapter on Alabama. 

There are some other mountain and watei-fall 
pictures in Georgia besides those in the upper 
tier of counties — a few isolated scenes lower 
down, standing as outposts to the hill-region, as 
Mount Currahee, the Rock Mountain, and the 
Falls of Towalaga. 

Mount Currahee is on the upper edge of 
Franklin County, adjoining Habersham, where 
we have already visited the Falls of Tallulah and 
Toccoa, Nacoochee and Yonah, and on the stage 
route from Athens (see route to Clarksville) to 
those scenes. It is about 16 miles above the 
village of Cairnesville, and a few miles below 
the Toccoa cascade. 

Mount Currahee, in the midst of mountains, 
might not be very noticeable ; but isolated as it 
is, and as an appetizer for the feast of wild beau- 
ties which the traveller from the lowlands is 
anticipating, it is always a scene of much in- 
terest. 

The Book Mountain is a place of great 
repute and resort in the western part of the 
State. It is in De Kalb County, where also is 
Atlanta, the westjern terminus of the Georgia 
Railw.ay. ht may thus be easily reached by the 
Georgia Road from Augusta, and all points 



GEORGIA. 



193 



thereon, and from all places on the many dif- 
ferent railways nieuting at Atlanta. (See At- 
lanta.) The prcciae locality of the Rook or 
Stono Mountain is at the Stone Mountain station 
on the Georgia Railwaj', 15 miles east of Atlanta, 
and 9 miles east of Decatur, the capital of the 
county. AccommodatioiiB are ample. The moun- 
tain stands alone in a comparatively level region. 
It covers 1,000 acres of surface. Its circumfer- 
ence is about six miles. Its height above the sea 
2,230 feet, yet increased by the addition of an 
observatory. 

The ■western view of the mountain, though 
perhaps the most beautiful, is not calculated to 
give the beholder a just conception of its magni- 
tude. To obtain this, ho must visit the north 
and south sides, both at the base and at the sum- 
mit. Pursuing, for half a mile, a road which 
■winds in an easterly direction along the base of 
the mountain, the traveller arrives" directly oppo- 
site its northern front. There the view is ex- 
ceedingly grand and imposing. This side of the 
mountain presents an almost -uninterrupted sur- 
face of rock, rising about 900 feet at its greatest 
elevation. It extends nearly a mile and a half, 
gradually declining toward the west, while the 
eastern termination is abrupt and precipitous. 
The side is not perpendicular, but exhibits rather 
a convex face, deeply marked with furrows. 
During a shower of rain, a thousand waterfalls 
pour down these channels, and if, as sometimes 
happens, the sun breaks forth in his splendor, 
the mimic torrents flash and sparkle in his 
■beams, like the coruscations of countless dia- 
monds. 

IN"ear the road is a spring, which, from the 
iDeauty of its location, and the delightful coolness 
of its water, is an agreeable place of resort. It 
is in a shady dell, and its water gushes up from 
a deep bed of white and sparkling sand. A more 
exquisite beverage a pure taste could not desire. 

Among the curiosities of the mountain, there 
are two which are especially deserving of notice. 
One is the " Cross Roads." There are two crev- 
ices or fissures in the rock, which cross each 
other nearly at right angles. They commence 
as mere cracks, increasing to the width and 
depth of five feet at their intersection. They 
are of different lengths, the longest extending 
probably 400 feet. These curious passages are 
covered at their junction by a flat rock, about 20 
feet in diameter. 

Another is the ruins of a fortification, which 
once surrounded the crown of the mountain. It 
is said to have stood entire in 1788. When, or 
by whom, it was erected is unknown. The 
Indians say that it was there before the time of 
their fathers. 

Th.e Falls of tlie Towalaga would be 
9 



beautiful anywhere, and they arc therefore par- 
ticularly so, occurring as they do in a jiart of the 
State not remarkable for its picturesque charac- 
ter. They lie some distance south of the Rook 
Mountain, and may be easily reached from For- 
syth or Griflin, on the Una of the railway from 
Macon to Atlanta. 

The river above the falls is about three hundred 
feet in width, flowing swiftly over a rocky shoal. 
At its first descent, it is divided by a ledge of 
rock, and forms two precipitous falls for a dis- 
tance of fifty feet. The falls are much broken 
by the uneven surface over which the water 
flows, and on reaching their rocky basin, are 
shivered into foam and spray. 

From the foot of this fall the stream foama 
rapidly down its decli^vitous channel for two 
hundred feet, and again bounds over a minor 
precipice in several distinct cascades, which 
commingle their •waters at its base in a cloud of 
foam. 

The Indian Spring-s are in Butts County, 
near the Falls of the Towalaga. Stop at For- 
syth or Griflin, on the railway between Macon 
and Atlanta. 

The Madison Springs are on the stage 
route from Athens to the waterfall region of 
Habersham County, 7 miles from Daniolsville, 
the capital of Madison County. Take the Geor- 
gia Railway and Athens branch to Athens — 
thence by stage. 

The "Warm Springs, in Merriweather 
County, are 36 miles by stage from Columbus. 
A nearer railway point is Lagrange, on the 
Atlanta and Lagrange Railway, connecting at 
Atlanta with the Georgia road from Augusta. 
These springs discharge 1,400 gallons of water 
per minute, of 90 degrees Fahrenheit. 

The Siilph^ur Springs are 6 miles north 
of Gainesville, Hall County, in the upper part 
of the State. The nearest railway ]3oint is 
Athens, on the branch of the great Georgia 
Road — thence by stage. 

The Bo-wland Springs are about 6 miles 
from Cartersville, in Cass County. Cartersvillo 
is a station on the great railway route from 
Charleston via Augusta to Tennessee. Westarn 
and Atlantic link 47 miles above Atlanta; 91 
miles below Chattanooga. 

The Red Sulph-ur Springs, or " the Vale 
of Springs,^' are at the base of Taylor's Ridge, 
in Walker County, the north-west corner of the 
State. Western and Atlantic Railway. In the 
vicinage is the Look-out Mountain and other 
beautiful scenes. No less than twenty springs 
are found here in the space of half a mile, — 
chalybeate, sulphur, red, white and black, and 
magnesia. 

The Thiindering Springs are in Upsou 



194 



GEOE GIA. ALABAMA. 



Countj% in the west central part of the State. 
Nearest railway station, Forsyth, on the western 
and Macoa roate from Macon to Atlanta. 
Tile Powder Springs— sulpliui' and mag- 



nesia—are in Cohh County, accessible from 
Marietta, 20 miles above Atlanta, on the Western 
and Atlantic railway. 



ALABAMA. 

The natural beauties of Alabama, excepting in the peculiar features of the southern lowlands 
seen near the coast, are not of such marked interest to the tourist as the landscape of some other 
States. Still we shall lead attention to many objects most noteworthy and enjoyable. 

In the upper region are the extreme southern outposts of the great Appallachian hill ranges ; 
but, as if wearied with all their long journey, they here droop their once bold heads and fall to 
sleep, willing, perhaps, to accept the poetical signification of the name of the new territory into 
which they now enter — Alabama, Here ice rest. 

While the upper portion of the State is thus rude and hilly, the central falls into fertile prairie 
reaches. The extreme southern edge for fifty or sixty miles from the gulf is sometimes a sandy, 
sometimes a rich alluvial plain. 

The climate, like most of all the southern line of States, varies from the characteristics of the 
tropics below, through all the intermediate degrees to the salubrious and invigorating air of the 
mountain lands above. 

The chief agricultural product of Alabama is cotton, of which great staple it yields more than 
any other State in the Union. Extensive canebrakes once existed, but they have been greatly 
cleared away. Sugar cane grows on the south-west neck, between Mobile and the Mississippi. 
Many of the rich alluvial tracts yield rice abundantly. Tobacco, also, is produced. Indian corn, 
oats, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, barley, flax, and silk, are much cultivated, besides many other 
grains, fruits, and vegetables, and large supplies of live stock of all descriptions. 

Mineral Products. Alabama is rich in great deposits of coal, iron, variegated marbles, lime- 
stone, and other mineral treasm-es. Gold mines, too, have been found and worked. Bait, sulphur, 
and chalybeate springs abound. 

History. It is supposed that Alabama was first visited by white men in 1541, when the gallant 
troops of De Soto passed through its wildernesses, on their memorable exploring expedition to the 
great Mjssissippi. In 1702, a fort was erected in Mobile Bay by a Frenchman named Bienville, 
and nine years later the present site of the city of Mobile was occupied. At the peace of VSZ, 
this territory passed into the possession of the English, with all the French possessions (except 
New Orleans) east of the Mississippi. Until 1802 Alabama was included in the domain of Georgia, 
and after 1S02 and up to 1S17 it was a part of the Mississippi Territory. At that period it was 
formed into a distinct government, and was admitted in 1819 into the Union as an independent 
State. 



The Alabama E.iver is a grand navigable 
stream, formed by the meeting, some ten miles 
above Montgomery, of the Coosa and the Talla- 
poosa. About 45 miles above the Mobile it is 
joined by the Tombigbee, and the united waters 
are thence known as the Mobile River. The 
Alabama is navigable for large steamers through 
its whole course of 460 miles, from the city of 
Mobile to Wetumpka. It has long been, and 
still is, a part of the great highway from Boston 



and New York to New Orleans. It flows 
througii a country of rich cotton fields, broad 
savanna lands, and dense forest tracts. 

The Tombig'bee River flows 450 miles 
from the north-east corner of Mississippi, first 
to Demopoiis, Alabama, where it unites with 
the Black Warrior, and thence to the Alabama 
River, about 45 miles above Mobile. Its course 
is through fertile savanna lands occupied by cot- 
ton plantations. Aberdeen, Columbus, Pickens- 



ALABAMA. 



195 



ville, Gainesville, and Demopolis, are upon its 
banks. Large steamboats ascend 366 miles, to 
Cohimbns. 

The Black "Warrior River unites at 
DcmopoliB -wilhthe TombigbteCseeTombigbee, 
above). Tuscaloosa, the capital of the State, is 
upon its banks. To this point large steamboats 
regularly ascend, 305 miles, from Mobile. The 
Indian name of this river was Tuscaloosa, and 
it is still thus sometimes called. 

The Chattahooche forms a part of the 
Eastern boundary of the State. See Georgia. 

The Hill-Region.— The upper part of Ala- 
bama is picturesquely broken by the Alleghanies, 
■which end their long journey hereabouts. In 
the north-east extremity of the State there are 
many fine landscape passages. 

The Nickajack Cave enters the Raccoon 
Mountain a few miles below Chattanooga, Ten- 
nessee, and the Lookout Mountain, and immedi- 
_ ateiy finds its way into Georgia. A magnificent 
j- rooky arch of some 80 feet span forms the mouth 
of the cavern, high up in the mountain side. 
Just beneath is a dainty little lakelet, formed by 
the waters of a mysterious brook, which comes 
from the interior of the cave, and disappears 
some distance from the point of egress, rising 
again without. How the waters of this singular 
pond vanish no one knows, any more than how 
they come ; but vanish they do, for some distance, 
wlien they are again seen, making their way, 
like all ordinary mortal waters, toward other 
streams. The passage of the cave is made in a 
canoe, on this subterranean and nameless stream, 
now through immense chambers of grand stalac- 
tites, and now through passages so narrow, that 
to pass, one must crouch down on his back and 
paddle his way against the walls and roof of the 
Procrustean tunnel. We thus explored the 
Nickajack some years ago for seven miles, with- 
out finding its end or any signs thereof. At that 
period no traveller had before penetrated so far, 
and wo have not heard of any additional revela- 
tions since. This wonderful Avernus was, at 
one period of long ago, the rendezvous of the 
hand of a certain negro leader, known as ISTigger 
Jack. His mountain head-quarters were thus 
called " Nigger Jack's" Cave, a patronymic re- 
fined at this day into the more romantic name 
of the Nick.ajack. Large quantities of saltpetre 
are found here. 

Natural Bridge. — In "Walker County there 
is a remarkable natural Bridge, thought by some 
travellers to be more curious than the celebrated 
scene of the same kind in Virginia. 

The Muscle Shoals are an extensive series 
of rapids in that part of the Tennessee River 
which lies in the extreme northern part of the 
State. The descent of the water here is 100 feet 



in the course of 20 miles. The neighborhood is 
a famous resort of wild ducks and geese, wliich 
come in great flocks in search of the shell-fish 
from which the rapids derive theirnarae. Boats 
cannot pass'*tbis part of the Tennessee except at 
times of very high water. A canal was once 
built around the shoals, but it has been aban- 
doned and is falling into decay. 

Mineral Spring's abound in the upper part 
of Alabama. The Blount Springs, in Blount 
County, near the Black Warrior River, are much 
resorted to ; and so also the Bladen Springs, in 
Choctaw County, in the western part of the 
State, near the line of the Mobile and Ohio Rail- 
waj's. At Tuscumbia a spring issues from a fis- 
sure of the limestone rock, discharging 20,000 
cubic feet of water per minute. It forms a con- 
siderable brook, which enters the Tennessee 2^ 
miles below. There are valuable sulphur springs 
in Shelby and Talladega counties. The Shelby 
Springs are near Columbiana, on the Alabama 
and Tennessee River Railway. 

Huntsville is a beautiful mountain village 
of Alabama, on the line of the Memphis and 
Charleston Railway, 150 miles above Tuscaloosa 
and 116 below Nashville, Tennessee. 

Railways. — The Mobile and Ohio extends 
261 miles northward to Okolona, at which point 
a direct line, now partly in operation, will con- 
tinue it onward to the mouth of the Ohio River. 

The Alabama and Florida road will connect 
Montgomery and Pensacola. 

The Mobile and Girard road will traverse the 
State from Columbus, Ga., to Mobile. Com- 
pleted from Montgomery 47 miles to Chunnug- 
gee. 

The Pensacola and Georgia road will cross the 
southern line of Alabama from Pensacola to 
Tallahassee. 

The Montgomery and West Point road, 88 
miles, connects at West Point with road to At- 
lanta, Ga. 

The Alabama and Tennessee Railroad runs 
110 miles from Selma to Talladega. Steamers 
from Selma to Mobile. Shelby Springs on this 
route. 

The Memphis and Charleston extends from 
Memphis, on the Misissippi River, along the 
lower line of Tennessee and the upper line of 
Alabama, to Chattanooga, 310 miles ; thence by 
the Georgia and Carolina railways to Atlanta, 
Macon, Augusta, Savannah, Charleston, &.c., 
and in another direction, to Knoxville, and thence 
to Virginia. 

Mobile.— Hotels : — Battle House. 

Mobile is in direct railway communication 
with all the cities of the north and west. Steam- 



196 



ALABAMA.. 



boats connect daily -with New Orleans, 165 miles 
■westward. From St. Louis it is reached by steam- 
ers on the Mississippi to Kew Orleans, or steamers 
to Cairo, and tiience by the Mobile and Ohio Rail- 
way. From Moiitgomery, 330 miles above, by 
steamboats daily on the Alabama River. Dis- 
tance of Mobile from NewYork, 1566 miles ; time, 
four to five days ; fare, between 40 and 50 dollars. 

From Montgomery to Mobile, by Steamboat. 

To Washington 12 

Lown-iesport 10 22 

Vernon 9 31 

Miller's Ferry 9 40 

Benton li 54 

Selma 28 82 

Cabawba 16 98 

Portland 23 121 

Bridgeport 17 138 

Canton 4 142 

Prairie Bluff 10 152 

Prairie Bluff Landing 24 176 

Bell's Landing 20 196 

Claiborne 22 218 

Gosporl 7 225 

Oliver's Ferry 8 233 

French's Landing 9 242 

James* Lauding 6 248 

Tomblgbee Kiver 39 '287 

Fort St. Philip 23 310 

Mobile 21 231 

Fare, $10. 
From Mobile to New Orleans, by Steamboat. 

To Cedar Point, Ala 30 

Portersville 12 42 

Pascagoula 13 55 

Missi.ssippi City '28 83 

Cat Island 11 94 

East Marianne 11 105 

West Marianne 5 110 

St. Joseph's Island 5 115 

Grandlsland 4 119 

Lake Borgne 9 1'28 

Fort Coquilles 11 139 

Point aux Herbes 7 146 

Lakeport (oil Lake Pontchartrain) 15 161 

By Railroad. 

NewOkleans 5 166 

Fare, $5. 

Mobile was founded by the French, about the 
year 1700, and was ceded by that nation to Eng- 
land in 1763. In 17S0 England surrendered it to 
Spain, and on the 5th of April, 1813, it was made 
over by the Spanish government to the United 
States. It was incorporated as a city in Decem- 
ber, 1S19. The present popidation is about 
22,000. 

The city is pleasantly situated on a broad 
plain, elevated 15 feet above the highest tides, 
and has a beautiful prospect of the bay, from 
which it receives refreshing breezes. Vessels 



having a draft of more than 8 feet of water can- 
not come directly to the city, but pass up Span- 
ish River, six miles round a marshy island, into 
Mobile River, and then drop down to the city. 
As a cotton mart and a place of export. Mobile 
ranks next in importance to Kew Orleans and 
Charleston. In 1850 the tonnage of this port 
was upwards of 25,000 tons. The city is supplied 
with excellent water, brought in iron pipes for a 
distance of two miles, and thence distributed 
through the city. This port is defended by Fort 
Morgan (formerly Fort Bower), situated on a 
long low, sandy point at the mouth of the bay, 
opposite to Dauphin Island. A lighthouss is 
built on Mobile Point, the lantern of which is 
55 feet above the level of the sea. 

A number of sailing vessels ply regularly be- 
tween Mobile and New Orleans, and places la 
the Gulf of Mexico, and the principal cities on 
the Atlantic coast. Steamboats also keep up a 
daily communication with New Orleans, via 
Lake Borgne, and likewise with Montgomery, 
continuing the route hence to Charleston, S. C, 
and the East. The Mobile and Ohio Railroad, a 
most important work for the city of Mobile and 
the States through which it will pass, is now un- 
der active construction, a portion of which is 
already opened. This road, in connection with 
its great link, the Illinois Central Railroad, will 
be one of the greatest works of the age, extend- 
ing from the Gulf of Mexico to Lake Michigan, 
and embracing nearly twelve degrees of latitude. 
See Railways of Alabama, ante. 

Spring Hill College (Eoman Catholic) is lo- 
cated here. 

Montgomery. — Hotels : — The Exchange 
Hotel is a large first-ciass house. 

Montgomery, the capital and the second city 
of Alabama in population and trade, and one of 
the most prosperous places in the South, is on 
the Alabama River, 331 miles from Mobile by 
water. <S'ee Mobile for routes hence to that city 
and to New Orleans. Montgomery is connected 
by railway with the Georgia roads, and is upon 
the Great Northern and Southern Line from 
New York to New Orleans. Population about 
8,000. 

From Montgomery to Tuscaloosa, Ala., by stage. 
— To Wetumpka, 15 ; Kingston, 39 ; Maplesville, 
61; Randolph, 71; Centreville, 85; ScottsviUe, 
93 ; Mars, 99 ; Tuscaloosa, 123. 

Tuscaloosa. — Hotels : — Mansion Hoiise. 

Tuscaloosa is upon the Black Warrior River, 
at the head of steamboat navigation, 125 miles by 
plank road from Montgomery. It is one of the 



ALABAMA. — MISSISSIPPI. 



197 



principal towns of AlalDama, and •was once tine 
capital. It is the seat of the University of Ala- 
bama, established, 1831. The State Lunatic Asy- 
lum and a United States Land Office are located 
here also. Population about 4,000. 

For route to Montgomery, see Montgomery, 
ante. 

From Tuscaloosa to Tuscumbia, Ala., by stage. 



—To New Lexington, 24 ; Eldridge, 51 ; Thorn 
Hill, 73 ; Russelville, 103 ; Tuscumbia, 111. 

From Tuscaloosa to Huntsville, Ala., by stage. 
—To McMatli's, 32 ; Jonesboro', 44 ; Elyton, 56 : 
Mount Pinson, 70 ; Blountsville, 96 ; Oleander, 
120 ; Lacy Springs, 132 ; Wiitesburg, 139 ; 
Huntsville, 149. 



MISSISSIPPI. 



Mississippi, like Alabama, was first visited by Europeans- at the time (about 1541) when the 
Spanish expedition bore the bright banner of De Soto through all the great belt of forest swamps 
which lies upon the Mexican Gulf— from the palm-covered plains of Florida on the east, to the far- 
off floods of the mighty " Father of "Waters," on the west. 

The enmity of the Indians, and other obstacles, prevented any permanent occupation of the 
new country at this period. In 1682, La Salle descended the Mississippi Kiver, and visited the 
territory of its present namesake State. Two years after, he set out again for the region, with a 
resolute b.ind of colonists, but the venture failed before it was fairly begun, various misfortunes 
preventing his ever reaching his destination. Iberville, a Frenchman, made the third attempt at 
a settlement, but with no better success than his predecessors mot with. A beginning was, how- 
ever, at length accomplished, by Bienville and a party of Frenchman. This expedition settled in 
1716 at Fort Rosalie, now the city of Natchez. A dozen years later (1728) a terrible massacre of 
the new comers was made by their jealous Indian neighbors, which checked, but yet did not stay, 
the " course of empire." " Manifest destiny" wa,s the watchword of America then, even as it is 
now ; and the whites " still lived," despite decapitation. Other sanguinary conflicts with the 
aborigines took place in 1736, '39, and 52, with the same final result — the defeat and devastation of 
the Indian tribes, and the triumph of the invading whites. 

The territory fell into the possession of the British crown upon the conclusion of the peace of 
Paris, in 1763. The strength of the new colony was augmented about this period by portions of 
the dispersed Acadian communities of Nova Scotia ; and soon after a stream of colonists stolo 
down from the New England territories, by the way of the Mississippi and the Ohio Rivers. In 
1798 the colony was organized as a Territory, Alabama forming a portion thereof. The State his- 
tory of Mississippi began December 10, 1817. 

Much of the area of Mississippi is occupied by swamp and marsh tracts. There is within her 
territory, between the mouth of the Yazoo River and Memphis in Tennessee, a stretch of this de- 
scription, covering an area of nearlj' 7,000 square miles. It is sometimes a few miles broad, and 
sometimes not less than a hundred. These low portions of the State are subject to inundation at 
the time of freshets, and great is the cost and care to protect them, as well as all the lands of a 
similar character lying along the Mississippi. Banks, or levees are built along the river shores to 
restrain the unruly floods, but sometimes a breach or crevasse, as such rent is called, occurs, and 
then woful is the damage and great the risk, not only of property but of life. 

Where the country is not thus occupied by swampy or marshy stretches, it sweeps away in 
broad table-lands, shaped into grand terraces, or steps descending from the eastward to the waters 
of the great river. The steps are formed by two ranges of blufl's, which sometimes extend to the 
river shores, and halt abruptly in precipices of fifty and even a hundred feet pcrpendicuLir height. 
These blufis are features of great and novel attraction to the voyager on the Mississippi River. 

The climate of Mississippi has the same general characteristics of the other Southern States, 
passing from the temperatures of the torrid zone, southward, to more temperate airs above — unlike 



198 



MISSISSIPPI. 



Alabama, however, and the South-eastern States of Georgia and Carolina, it has no hold mountain 
lands within its area. 

The climate of Mississippi cannot at present he commended for salubrity ; though, as the 
marshlands become cleared and cultivated, the fatal miasmas which at present taint the air at 
certain seasons and in particular districts, will decrease— nay, perhaps disappear entirely ; and the 
dread caution like that over the entrance to Dante's Inferno, may no more require to be written 
upon any part of her faithful domain. The winters here, and in the neighboring State of Louis- 
iana have a temperature a few degrees lower than that of the same latitudes near the Atlantic. 
The fig and the orange grow well in the lower part of the State, and the apple flourishes in the 
higher hilly regions. Cotton is the great staple of Mississippi, the State being the third in the 
Union in this product ; the second even, the amount of population being the measure. Besides 
cotton, however, the varied soil yields great supplies of Indian corn, tobacco, hemp, flax, sills:, and 
all species of grains and grasses, besides live-stock of very considerable values. 

Mississippi has no very extensive mineral products ; or, if she has, they have not as yet been 
developed. Some gold has been found, but in no important quantity. 

Most of the water-courses here are tributaries of the Mississippi. They run, chiefly, in a south- 
west direction, following the general slope of the country. Some lesser waters, in the eastern sec- 
tions, find their way to the Gulf of Mexico, as tributaries of the Pearl River, in the centre of the 
State, and of the Tombigbee and Pascagoula, in Eastern Mississippi and Western Alabama. 



The Yazoo E,iver is a deep and narrow 
stream, and sluggisii in its movements. It is 
nearly 300 miles in length, exclusive of its 
branches, and is navigable for steamboats in all 
its course, and at all seasons, from its mouth to 
its sources. Its way leads through great alluvial 
plains of extreme fertility, covered everywhere 
by luxuriant cotton fields. Vicksburg is 12 miles 
below the union of the Yazoo with the Missis- 
sippi. 

The Tallahatchie, the largest branch of the 
Yazoo, has a length almost as great as that river, 
100 miles of which maj' be traversed by steamers. 

The Big Black Kiver is some 200 miles 
long. Its course and destiny are the same as 
that of the Yazoo, as also the character of the 
country which it traverses. 

The Pearl River pursues a devious course 
from the north-east part of the State, 250 miles, 
to Lake Borgne, and thenee to the Gulf of Mexico. 
Jackson, the capital of the State, is upon the 
Pearl River, south-west of the central region. 
Small boats sometimes ascend the river as far as 
this place, though the navigation is almost de- 
stroyed by the accumulations of sand-bars and 
drift-wood. 

RAILWAYS IjST MISSISSIPPL 

The Mobile and Ohio Road extends, first, fflong 
the western edge of Alabama, and afterwards 
near the eastern line of Mississippi, 261 miles 
northward from the city of MobUe, Alabama, to 
Okolona, Mississippi. 



The Southern Mississippi, part of a line which 
will cross the centre of the State from east to 
west, e.xtends at present eastward from Jackson, 
the capital of the State, about 45 miles to Forest, 
and westward, 44-J- miles to Vicksburg. 
j The Mississippi and Tennessee extends south- 
, ward from Memphis, 97 miles, to Granada, from 
.whence it is continued by the Mississippi Cen- 
tral and the New Orleans, Jackson and Great 
Northern road to New Orleans. 

The Mississippi Central, from Jackson, Tenn., 
237 miles, south to Canton, Miss. At Jackson 
it meets the Mobile and Ohio road north from 
Mobile, and at Canton it is continued southward 
by the New Orleans and Great Northern line to 
the Crescent City. 

The New Orleans, Jackson, and Great North- 
ern Railway, from New Orleans 206 miles north 
to Canton, Miss., continued by other railways 
direct to Memphis, to the Ohio and all northern 
cities, is in operation, north-west, to the Missis- 
sippi boundary. See Railways of Louisiana. 

Jackson. — Hotel.s : — Bowman House. 

Jackson, the capital of Mississippi, is upon the 
Pearl River, south-west from the centre of the 
State. It is connected by railway, 46 miles, 
with Vicksburg, on the Mississippi River, by 
railway, 183 miles, with New Orleans. The 
Southern Mississippi road extends, at present, 
44^ miles east of Jackson, to Forest. It is a chief 
point on the great railway route lately opened 
from New Orleans northward. The State Capi- 



MISSISSIPPI . — ^LOUISIANA. 



199 



tol, the Penitentiary, Lunatic Asylum, and a 
United Statea Land Office, are here. Popula- 
tion, about 6,000. 

Cooper's Well, in Hind County, 12 miles 
west of Jackson, is noted for the mineral quali- 
ties of its waters. 

ITatch.ez.— Hotels •.—Mansion. House. 

Natchez, on the Mississippi Eiver, 279 miles 
-ahovo New Orleans, is the most populous and 
commercial place in the State. It is built upon 
a bluff, 200 feet above the water, overlooking the 
great cypress swamps of Louisiana. The lower 
part of the town, where the heavy shipping busi- 
ness is done, is called Natchez- Under-the-Hill. 
In Seltzertown, near Natchez, there is a remark- 
able group of ancient mounds, one of which is 
35 feet high. Smaller remains of the kind are 
found yet nearer the town. 

The broken and varied character of the coun- 
try about Natchez is in most agreeable contrast 
with the flat lands on the opposite side of the 
river. The streets are wide and regular, and, to 
a great extent, elegantly built. The public edi- 
fices are well constructed, and the private man- 
Bions are pleasantly surrounded with trees and 
gardens. The town is the centre of an extensive 
trade, continually upon the increase. Steamers 
come and go with inspiriting despatch, and 
branch railways will soon link the town with all 
the great routes of the Union. 



VicksTaurg.— Hotels :- 

Vicksburg is upon the Mississippi, 400 miles 
above New Orleans, and 46 miles, by railway, 
from Jackson, the capital of the State. Popula- 
tion, about 4,000. 

Aberdeen, a town of some 4,000 inhabitants, 
is upon the Tombigbee River, 165 miles north- 
east of Jackson, 28 north of Columbus, and 540 
from Mobile, by water. Steamboats ply regu- 
larly from Mobile. 

Columbus.— Hotels :— 

Columbus, population about 4,000, is upon the 
Tombigbee River, 60 miles below Aberdeen, and 
145 miles north-east of Jackson. See Jackson 
for route thither. Regular steamboat communi- 
cation with Mobile. 

Holly Springs is 210 miles above Jackson. 
It is connected by railway (north) with the line 
from Memphis to Chattanooga, Tennessee. The 
Chalmers' Institute and St. Thom.as' Hall for 
boys, the Franklin Female College, and the 
Holly Springs Female Institute, are here. 

The vicinage of Holly Springs is remarkable 
for ita natural beauty and its salubrious cli- 
mate. 

The Lauderdale Springs, sulphur and 
chalybeate, are in Lauderdale County, in the ex- 
treme nojth-west corner of the State.^ 



LOUISIANA. 

Louisiana is one of the most interesting States in the Union, from the romantic incidents of its 
early history, the peculiar features of its landscape, and its unique social character and life. 

The traveller, looking upon the face of the Great River, will recall the bright hopes of De Soto, 
when he, too, so gazed with delighted wonder ; then he will muse upon that hapless destiny which 
gave the gallant explorer a grave beneath the very floods which he was the first to find and enter, 
with such exultant anticipations. Then he will remember the visit of La Salle to the mouth of 
the river, in 1691-next, the attempted settlement, in 1699, under the brave lead of Iberville ; then 
comes the enterprise of Crozart, to whom the country was granted by Louis XIV. in 1712 ; next 
comes its history from 1717, while in possession of the famous French financier John Law, and his 
company of rash speculators, with all the incidents of the story of the brilliant but fleeting " Mis- 
sissippi Bubble-," next the restoration of the territory to the French Crown, its transfer to Spain 
in 1762 its retrocession to France in 1800, and its final acquisition by the United States m 1803, 
when this Government purchased it for §11,500,000, and the further payment of certain claims of 
American citizens against the Government of France. . Of the history of the region in its partici- 
pation in our national trials, and especially of the memorable event of the battle of New Orleans, 
we shall speak by and by. 

Louisiana in no part of its territory reaches a greater elevation than 200 feet above the level of 
the Gulf of Mexico, while very much of the Southern region is so low that it becomes inundated 



200 



LOUISIANA, 



at higli water. Marshes extend from the coast ; then come the low prairie lands -which approach 
the central parts of the State ; and ahove, the country grows hroten and hilly, west of the hasia 
of the Mississippi. In the extreme north-west is a marshy tract of 50 mites in length and 6 in 
breadth, full of small lakes, made by the interlacings of the arms of Red River. It is estimated 
that an area of between 8,000 and 9,000 square miles, lying respectively upon the Mississippi and 
Red Rivers, is subject to inundation annually. 

About three-fifths of the whole area of the State is alluvial and diluvial ; the rest is occupied by 
the tertiary formation, and contains coal and iron, ochre, salt, gypsum, and marl. In the vicinity 
of Harrisonburg, near the north-eastern line of the State, and among the freestone hills which rise 
hereabouts precipitously to a height of SO and 100 feet, large quartz crystals have been found, and 
quantities of jasper, agates, cornelians, sardonyx, onyx, feldspar, crystallized gypsum, alumine, 
chalcedony, lava, meteoric stones, and fossils. 

The exhalations from the marshes in the long hot summers affect the atmosphere, and make 
Louisiana, in much of its territory, dangerous to the acclimated, and quite unapproachable to 
strangers, at the season when the especial features of the landscape may be seen in all their 
greatest gloiy. 

Cotton and sugar-cane are the great products of this State. Of the latter staple, it jielded ia 
1S50 nine-tenths of the whole supply raised in the United States. 

The bays and lakes, formed by expansions of the rivers in the marsh lands near the coast, make 
a marked feature In the landscape of Louisiana, as lakes Pontchartrain, Borgne, Maurepas, &c. 
Some of these waters we shall see again when we reach New Orleans. 

Besides the Mississippi and the Red Rivers, of which the reader will find accounts elsewhere in 
our volume, the streams in Louisiana do not offer very great attractions to the traveller. 



Hallways.— But little need of railway com- 
munication has heretofore been felt in Louisiana, 
so great are the facilities of travel by water ; 
though the iron roads now in progress, chartered 
or projected, will traverse the country in all 
directions, and connect it advantageously with 
the neighboring States. 

The iSTew Orleans, Jackson and Great North- 
ern Railwaj' extends 206 miles north from New 
Orleans, through Jackson, the capital of Missis- 
sippi, to Canton, and tlience to Memphis, Tenn., 
and all points north and cast. 

The N. O., Opelousas, and Great "Western line 
is to connect New Orleans and Houston. It ex- 
tends at present to Brashear (SO miles), on Ber- 
wick Bay ; connects on Mondays with steamers 
for Galveston and Sabine Pass, and on AVedues- 
days and Saturdays for Galveston and Indianoia. 
Returning, the trains connect on Mondays, Wed- 
nesdays, and Fridays. 

The Mexican Gulf R. R. runs from New Or- 
leans to Proctorsville, on Lake Borgne. 

The New Orleans, Milneburg and Lake Pont- 
chartrain, and the New Orleans and Carrollton 
Railways, are short route3 from New Orleans. 

The "West Feliciana Railway extends 26 m. 
from Bayou Sara to "Woodville. 

The Clinton and Port Hudson Road, from 
Port Hudson, 14 m. to Clinton. A road is now 
in progress from Vicksburg west to Shreveport, 



where it is to connect with the proposed South- 
ern Pacific route. 

New Orleans. — Hotels: — The Crescent 
City is famous for the extent and style of its 
hotels, in a land of sumptuous establishments 
of this kind. 

'i'hQ.Sl. Charles is a splendid "institution" on 
St. Charles street. Destroyed by fire, it was re- 
built by the close of 1852, at a cost of nearly 
$600,000. The house was leased at the rate of 
$30,000 per annum until 1855, and at $40,000 since 
that iieriod. It has accommodation for nearly 
1,000 guests. 

The St. Louis Hotel, another superb palatial 
establishment, is upon St. Louis street. It holds 
the same high rank as the St. Charles. 

The City Hotel (Camp and Common streets) 
is another magnificent palace-home for the stran- 
ger. 

The St. James, yet another fine house, is now 
being constructed, and will be ready in the au- 
tumn of this year (1S60). 

Routes. New Orleans was formerly reached 
from the north by the routes through the Caro- 
linas, Georgia, and Alabama. Now the favorife 
and most sjieedy way is to Washington, and 
thence, by the Virginia and Tennessee railways 
and the Great Northern road, through Missis- 
sippi ; or west to Chicago or Cincinnati, and 



LOUISIANA. 



201 



thence south, liy rail. Those who prefer -water 
travel may go inland to some point on tho Ohio 
or the Mississippi, as Cincinnati or Cairo, or St. 
Louis, and find there good steamers to talie 
them in four or five days to the Crescent City. 
Distance about 1,700 miles. 

New Orleans, the metropolis of the South- 
•western States, is built within a great bend of 
the Mississippi River (from whence its name of 
the Crescent City), 94 miles from its debouchure 
into the Gulf of Mexico. It is distant from Kew 
York 1,663 miles, from Thiladelphia 1,576, Bos- 
ton 1,887, Baltimore 1,478, Washington City 
1,438, Charleston, S. C, 879, Cincinnati 1,548, 
St. Louis 1,201, Pittsburg 2,025, Chicago 1,628, 
and the Falls of St. Anthony 1,993. 

The city is built on land gently descending 
from the river towards a marshy ground in the 
rear, and from two to four feet below the level 
of the river at high water mark. It is prevent- 
ed from overflowing the city by an embankment 
of earth, termed the Levee, which is substan- 
tially constructed, for a great distance along the 
banks of the river. This Levee is 15 feet wide 
and 4 feet high, and forms a delightful prome- 
nade. It is accessible at all times by vessels of 
the largest description coming from the ocean, 
and its advantages of communication with the 
upper country, and the whole valley of the Mis- 
sissippi, are at once stupendous and unrivalled. 
It is not an exaggeration to say that, including 
the tributaries of this noble river, New Orleans 
has upwards of 17,000 miles of internal naviga- 
tion, penetrating tho most fertile soils, and a 
great variety of climates ; though at pi-esent the 
resources of this immense valley are only par- 
tially developed. 

This city is the chief cotton mart of the world. 
Not unfrequently from a thousand to fifteen 
hundred flat-boats may be seen lying at the 
Levee, that have floated down the stream hun- 
dreds of miles, with the rich produce of the in- 
terior country. Steamboats of the largest class 
may be observed arriving and departing almost 
hourly ; and, exceptin the summer months, at its 
wharves may be seen hundreds of ships and other 
sailing craft, from all quarters of the globe, land- 
ing the productions of other climes, and receiv- 
ing cargoes of cotton, sugar, tobacco, lumber, 
provisions, &o. Indeed, nothing can present a 
more busy, bustling scene than exists here in 
the loading and unloading of vessels and steam- 
ers, with hundreds of drays transporting the 
various and immense products which come 
hither from the West. 

The receipts and exports of cotton from New 
Orleans exceeded in the years 1859-'60 two mil- 
lions and a quarter of bales, the value of which 
may be set down at one hundred millions of dol- 

9* 



lars. Besides cotton, a vast amount of other 
products, as sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, etc., 
are received at Now Orleans, and thence sent 
abroad. The total value of these products for 
the year ending Sept. 1, 1859, amounted to $172,- 
952,664. Besides its exports. New Orleans has a 
large import trade of coffee, salt, sugar, iron, 
drygoods, liquors, etc., the yearly value of which 
exceeds $17,000,000. 

Theatres. — New Orleansis as amply supplied 
with public amusements as with public houses. 
Both are esteemed there as among the first of 
human considerations. 

A superb opera house was erected on Bourbon 
street in 1859, and has proved to be a great suc- 
cess, being always crowded by the worshippers 
of the lyric muse. A new edifice has been 
erected in the place of the old St. Charles 
Theatre. 

The Orleans Theatre. — The representations 
at this house are in the French language. It is 
a very popular resort of the large foreign popula- 
tion of the city. 

The American Tlieatre is another of tho lead- 
ing dramatic establishments. There are still 
many other minor theatres, and places of amuse- 
ment, in the city. 

The edifices of the City Bank, on Toulouse 
street, of the Canal Bank, on Magazine street, 
and of the Bank of Louisiana, are note worthy 
objects. 

The Markets. — The stranger here will be 
much interested by a visit to the markets. St. 
Mary's, in the Second District, the Washington 
Market, in the Third District, and the meat 
market, on the Levee, are alj extensive estab- 
lishments. 

Cotton Presses. — There are some 20 or more 
great cotton presses in New Orleans, each oc- 
cupying usually a whole block to itself. They 
are well worth inspection. A fine view of the 
city may be had from the summit of the dome, 
which surmounts the centre building of the 
edifice known as the New Orleans Cotton Press ; 
150,000 bales of cotton are, it is said, annually 
pressed at this last mentioned establishment. 

Churches. — The city possesses many ele- 
gant church edifices. 

The Church of St. Louis, opposite Jackson 
Square, makes an imposing appearance. The 
entrance is flanked on either side by a lofty 
tower. The present building was erected in 
1850, upon the site of the old church, which was 
pulled down. The Presbyterian Church, oppo- 
site Lafayette Square ; the Jewish Synagogue 
(formerly the Canal street Episcopal Church) ; 
St. Patrick's Church, on Camp street, and the 
new Episcopal Church on Canal street, are all 
fine etructui-es. The spire of St, Patrick's is a 



202 



LOTTISIANA. 



Btriking feature in the picture of the city, as 
Been from the river approach. There are 40 
or more churches in New Orleans, about one- 
half of which are Roman Catholic. The chuixh 
of St. Alphonso, on Constance, and of St. 
Mar3-'s, on Josephine street, are new and ele- 
gant edifices. 

The Custom House is, after the Capitol at 
"Washington, the largest huilding in the United 
States. It covers an area of 87,333 superficial feet, 
having a front on Canal street of 334 feet, on Cus- 
tom House street of 252 feet, on the New Levee 
of 310 feet, and on the Old Levee of 297 feet. 
. Its height is 82 feet. The chief business apart- 
ment is 116 long by 90 broad, and has no less 
than 50 windows. There is, luckil)-, no window- 
tax, though, in the United States. This grand 
edifice is built of granite, from the Quincy 
quarries of Massachusetts. 

The United States Branch Mint is a noble 
Btructure at the corner of Esplanade and New 
Levee streets. It is three stories high 282 feet 
in length, and 108 feet deep. It has, besides, 
two wings, each 81 feet long. 

The City Hall is a fine Grecian building of 
marble. It is at the corner of St. Charles and 
Ha\-ia streets, opposite Lafayette Square. 

The Odd Fellows'' Hall is a large edifice, oppo- 
site Lafayette Square, on Camp street ; built, 
1852. 

The Merchants' Exchange is on Royal near 
Canal street. The City Post Office is in the Ex- 
change, also the Merchants' Reading Room. 

The streets of New Orleans are wide, well- 
paved, and are regularly laid out, usually inter- 
secting each other at right angles. The broadest 
is Canal street, with a width of 190^ feet, with a 
grass plot, 25 feet wide, extending in the centre 
through its whole length. The houses are built 
chiefl}' of brick, and are usually five or six 
stories high. The private dwellings in the 
suburbs are manyi of them very charming 
places, buried in the grateful shadow of tropi- 
cal leaves — the magnolia, lemon, myrtle, and 
orange-tree. 

Jackson Square, formerlj^ Place d'Ai-mes, 
covers the centre of the river-front of the Old 
Town Plot, now the First District. It is a place 
of favorite resort. Its shell-strewn paths, its 
beautiful trees and shrubbery, and its statuary, 
are all agreeable pleasures to enjoy. 

Lafayette Square, in the Second District, is 
another elegant pubhc park, superbly adorned 
■with fine shade trees and 8hrubbe^J^ 

Congo Square is in the rear of the city. Like 
the other public grounds, it is a delightful place 
to lounge away a summer evening. 

Literary and Charitable Institutions. — The 
University of Louisiana is on Common street. 



between Baronne and St. Phillipi streets, oc- 
cupj'ing the whole front of the block. It has a 
p'rosperous Law School and a Medical School. 
This University was organized in 1849. The 
Medical College, which stands in the centre of 
the block, has a facade of 100 feet. This depart- 
ment was established in 1835. It has a large 
Anatomical Museum and extensive and valuable 
collections of many kinds. The State made an 
appropriation of $25,000 towards the purchase of 
apparatus, drawings, plates, etc., illustrative of 
the various branches of medical study. This 
college had in the j'ear 1859 no less than four 
hundred students. There is also a school of 
medicine, numbering two hundred students. 

The Charity Hospital (in which the medical 
students of the University enjoy great facilities 
for practice; is situated on Common street, be- 
tween St. Mary's and Gironde street. 

The United States Naval Hospital is on the 
opposite side of the river, a little way above 
Algiers. 

Newspapers. — Over 20 newspapers are publish- 
ed in New Orleans, half of which are dailies of ; 
deservedly high repute, at home and abroad. I 
Several of them are printed in the French Ian- ' 
guage. The New Orleans Picayune is famous 
the world over. De Bow's Review, a commer- j 
cial journal of distinguished abUity, is pubUshed 
here. 

Water and Gas Works. — The city is supplied 
with water from the river, raised by steam to 
an elevated reservoir, and thence distributed 
through the streets. Some, six millions of gal- 
lons are used daily. Gas was introduced in 
1834 — water the same year. 

Cemeteries.— Some of these homes of the 
dead in New Orleans are deserving of particular 
notice, both from their unique arrangement and 
for the peculiar modes of interment. Each ia 
enclosed with a brick wall of arched cavities (or 
ovens, as they are called here), made just large 
enough to admit a single coffin, and raised, tier 
upon tier, to a height of about twelve feet, with 
a thickness of ten. The whole enclosure is di- 
vided into plots, with gravel paths intersecting 
each other at right angles, and is densely cover- 
ed with tombs, built wholly above ground, and 
from one to three stories high. This method of 
sepulchre is adopted from necessity, and burial 
U7xder ground is never attempted, excepting in 
the Potter's Field, where the stranger without 
friends, and the poor without money, find an 
uncertain rest : the water with which the soil is 
alwaj-s saturated often lifting the coffin and its 
contents out of its narrow and shallow cell, to 
rot with no other covering than the arch of 
heaven. 

New Orleans was named in honor of the Duke 



LOtnSIANA. 



203 



of Orleans, Regent of France, during the minor- 
ity of Louis XV. It was the place selected for 
the seat of the monarchy meditated in the trea- 
son of Aaron Burr. Great was the alarm of the 
citizens in January, 1804, at that prospective in- 
surrection. 

The Battle of New Orleans.— This mem- 
orable battle-ground lies about four miles from 
the St. Charles Hotel. It is washed by the wa- 
ters of the great Mississippi, and surrounded by 
cypress-swamps and cane-brakes. The action 
took place January 8th, 1815, between the Brit- 
ish troops, under General Pakeiiham, and the 
Americans, under Jackson, the former suffering 
a signal defeat. Pakenham was approaching 
the city by the way of Lakes Borgne and Pont- 
chartrain, at the time of this terrible repulse. 
Hie loss in killed and wounded was nearly 3,000, 
while the Americans had but 7 men killed and 6 
wounded. Jackson's troops fought securely and 
efl'ectively behind improvised defences of cotton- 
bags, while the enemy was, unluckily for him- 
self, unsheltered and powerless in the open 
marshy field. This engagement occurred after 
the signing of the treaty of peace, but, of course, 
before intelligence of that event had reached the 
country. 

" Next morning, at daylight," says a traveller, 
of his approach to New Orleans from Mobile, 
"we found ourselves in Louisiana. "We had al- 
ready entered the large lagoon, called Lake 
Pontchartrain, by a narrow passage, and, hav- 
ing skirted its southern shore, had reached a 
point six miles north of New Orleans. Here we 
disembarked, and entered the cars of a railway 
built on piles, which conveyed us in less than an 
hour to the great city, passing over swamps in 
which the tall cypress, hung with Spanish moss, 
was floui'ishing, and below it numerous shrubs 
just bursting into leaf. In many gardens of the 
suburbs, the almond and peach trees were in 
full blossom. In some places the blue-leaved 
palmetto, and the leaves of a species of iris (,Iris 
ciiprecc), were very. abundant. We saw a tavern 
called the " Elysian Fields Coffee House," and 
some others with French inscriptions. There 
were also many houses with iiorte-cochSres, high 
roofs, and volets, and many lamps suspended 
from ropes attached to tall posts on each side of 
the road, as in the French capital. "We might, 
indeed, have fancied that we were approaching 
Paris, but for the negroes and mulattoes, and the 
large verandas reminding us that the windows 
required protection from the sun's heat. 

" It was a pleasure to hear the French lan- 
guage spoken, and to have our thoughts recalled 
to the most civilized parts of Europe, by the as- 
pect of a city forming so great a contrast to the 
innumerable new towns we had lately beheld." 



Our traveller, just quoted, thus writes of the 
Markets. One morning we rose early to 
visit the market of the First Municipality, and 
found the air on the bank of the Mississippi filled 
with mist as dense as a London fog, but of a pure 
white instead of yellow color. Through this at- 
mosj)here the innumerable masts of the ships 
alongside the wharf were dimly seen. Among 
other fruits in the market we observed abundance 
of bananas, and good pine-apples, for 25 cents (or 
a shilling) each, from the West Indies. There 
were stalls where hot cofiee was selling, in white 
china cups, reminding us of Paris. Among other 
articles exposed for sale wore brooms made of pal- 
metto leaves, and wagon loads of the dried Span- 
ish moss, or Tillandsia. The quantity of this 
plant hanging from the trees in the swamps sur- 
rounding New Orleans, and everywhere on the 
Delta of the Mississippi, might suffice to stuff 
all the mattresses in the world. The Indians 
formerly used it for another purpose — to give 
porosity or lightness to their building materials. 
When at Natchez, Dr. Dickeson showed me 
some bricks dug out of an old Indian mound, in 
which the tough woody fibre of the Tillandsia 
was still pi-eserved. When passing through the 
stalls, we were surrounded by a population of 
negroes, mulattoes, and quadroons, some talking 
French, others a patois of Spanish and French, 
others a mixture of French and English, or Eng- 
lish translated from French, and with the French 
accent. They seemed very merry, especially 
those who were jet-black. Some of the Creoles 
also, both of French and Spanish extraction, like 
many natives of the south of Europe, were very 
dark. 

Amid this motley group, sprung from so many 
races, we encountered a young man and woman, 
arm-in-arm, of fair complexion, evidently Anglo- 
Saxon, and who looked as if they had recently 
come from the North. The Indians, Spaniards, 
and French standing round them, seemed as if 
placed there to remind us of the successive 
races whose power in Louisiana had passed 
aiwiy ; while this fair couple were the represent- 
atives of a people, whose dominion carries tho 
imagination far into the future. However much 
the moralist may satirize the spirit of conquest, 
or the foreigner laugh at some of the vain-glo- 
rious boasting about " destiny," none can doubt 
that from this stock is to spring the people who 
will stipersede every other in the northern, if 
not alQO in the southern continent of America — 



" Immota manebunt, 

Fata tibi . . . 
Eomaaos rerum dominos." 

The Levee. Soon after our arrival we 
walked to the Levee or raised bank of the Mis- 



204 



LOinSIANA. 



Bissippi, and ascending to the top of the high 
roof of a large Bteamer, looked down upon the 
yellow muddy stream, not much broader than 
the Thames at Loudon. At first we were dis- 
appointed that the " Father of waters" did not 
present a more imposing aspect ; hut when we 
had^ studied and contemi^lated the Mississippi 
for many weeks, it left on our mind an impres- 
sion of grandeur and vastness, far greater than 
we had conceived before seeing it. 

Panorama of the City. We went next, 
for the sake of obtaining a general view of the 
city and its environs, to the top of the cupola of 
the St. Charles Hotel. If the traveller has ex- 
pected, on first obtaining an extensive view of 
the environs of this city, to see an unsightly 
swamp, with scarcely any objects to relieve the 
monotony of the flat plain, save the winding 
river and a few lakes, he will be agreeably dis- 
appointed, ne will admire many a villa and 
garden in the suburbs, and in the uncultivated 
space bej'ond, the eflect of uneven and undulat- 
ing ground is produced by the magniticent 
growth of cypress and other swamp timber, 
which have converted what would otherwise 
have formed the lowest points in the landscape 
into the apxiearanco of wooded eminences. 
From the gallery of the cupola we saw the well- 
proportioned, massive square tower of St. 
Patrick's Church, recently built for the Irish 
Catholics, the dome of St. Louis Hotel, and im- 
mediately below us that fine bend of the Missis- 
sippi, where we had just counted the steamers 
at the wharf. Here, in a convex curve of the 
bank, there has been a constant gain of land, so 
that in the last twenty-five years no less than 
three streets have been erected, one beyond the 
other, and all within the line of several large 
posts of cedar, to which boats were formerly at- 
tached. Now Orleans was called the Crescent 
City, because the First Munioipahty was built 
along this concave b*nd of the Mississippi. The 
river in this part of its course varies ia breadth 
from a mile to three quarters of a mile, and be- 
low the city sweeps rottnd a curve for 18 miles, 
and then returns again to a point within five or 
six miles of that from which it had set out. 
Some engineers are of opinion that, as the isth- 
mus thus formed is only occupied by a low 
marsh, the current will in time cut through it, 
in which case, the First Municipality will be de- 
serted by the main channel. Even should this 
happen, the prosperity of a city, which extends 
continuously for more than six miles along the 
river, would not be materially affected, for its 
site has been admii-ably chosen, although orig- 
inally determined, in some degree, by chance. 
The French began their settlements on Lake 
Pontchartrain, because they found there an easy 



communication with the Gulf of Mexico. But 
they fixed the site of their town on that jiart of 
the great river which was nearest to the lagoon, 
so as to command, by this means, the navigation 
of the interior country. 

Pere Antoine's Date Palm. Walking 
through one of the streets of New Orleans, near 
the river, immediately north of the Catholic 
Cathedral, we were surprised to see a fine date 
palm, 30 feet high, growing in the open air. The 
tree is seventy or eighty years old, for Pfere An- 
toine, a Roman Catholic Priest, who died about 
twenty years ago, at the age of eighty, told Mr. 
Bringier that he planted it himself when he was 
young. In his will he provided that they who 
succeeded to this lot of ground should forfeit it 
if they cut down the palm. "Wishing to know 
something of Pere Antoine's history, we asked 
a Catholic Creole, who had a great veneration for 
him, when he died. He said it could never be 
ascertained, because, after he became very ema- 
ciated, he walked the streets like a mummy, and 
gradually dried up, ceasing at last to move ; but 
his flesh never decayed, or emitted any disagree- 
able odor. 

If the people here wish to adorn their metrop- 
olis with a striking ornament, such as the north- 
ern cities can never emulate, let them plant in 
one of their public squares an avenue of these 
date palms. 

Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, is 
upon the Mississippi, 129 miles above New Or- 
leans. It is built upon the first of the famous 
blufi's of the Great River seen in ascending its 
waters. It is thought to be one of the most 
healthy places in this part of the country. Be- 
sides the State Capitol, the city contains a Col- 
lege and a United States Arsenal and Barracks. 
The n.ame of Baton Rouge is said to have come 
thus : "When the place was first settled, there 
was growing on the spot a cypress (a tree of a 
reddish b.ark) of immense size and great height, 
denuded of branches. One of the settlers play- 
fully remarked that it would make a handsome 
cane. From this email jest grew Baton Rouge 
(red cane). 

The Home of Zacliary Taylor. Baton 
Rouge is interesting as having been the home of 
the military hero, and President of the United 
States, General Taylor. 

THE MISSISSIPPI. 

This mighty river was discovered in 1672, yet 
its true source was not fully determined until its 
exploration by Schoolcraft, who, in 1832, found 
that it took its rise in the small lake called 
Itasca, situated in 47° 10' K. lat., and 94' 54' "W. 
long, from Greenwich. This lake, called by the 



LOtrlSIANA. 



205 



French Lac la Biche, is a beautiful sheet of 
■water, of an irregular shape, about eight miles 
in length, situated among hills covered with pine 
forests, and fed chiefly by springs. It is elevated 
above 1,500 feet above the ocean, and is at a dis- 
tance of more than 3,000 miles from the Gulf of 
Mexico. 

The river drains an extent of territory which, 
for fertility and vastness, is unequalled upon the 
globe. This territory, termed the " Mississippi 
Valley," extends from the sources of the Missis- 
sippi in the north to the Gulf of Mexico in the 
south, and from the Alleghany Mountains on the 
east to the Rocky Mountains on the west. Or, 
to give its outline more definitely, "we will take 
a position on the Gulf of Mexico, where it 
empties its accumulated waters, and run a line 
north-westward to the Eooky Mountains, from 
whence issue the sources of the Arkansas, Platte, 
and other smaller streams ; from this point, 
along the Rocky Mountains to the sources of the 
Tellowstone and Missouri Rivers ; around the 
northern sources of the latter river to the head- 
quarters of Red River, a branch of the Assino- 
boin ; around the sources of the Mississippi 
proper, to the head-quarters of the Wisconsin 
and Illinois Rivers ; between the confluents of 
the lakes, and those of the Ohio, to the extreme 
source of the Alleghany River ; along the divid- 
ing line between the sources of streams flowing 
into the Ohio River, and those flowing towards 
the Atlantic ; between the confluents of the 
Tennessee, and those streams emptying into Mo- 
bile Bay ; between the sources discharged into 
the Mississippi, and those into the Tombigbee and 
Pearl Rivers ; to the mouth of the Mississippi, 
and from its mouth to the outlet of the Atcha- 
falaya. The whole presenting an outline of more 
than 6,000 miles, or an area of about 1,210,000 
square miles. The Mississippi River is navigable 
for steamboats, with but partial interruption, as 
far north as the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance 
of 2,037 miles ; its course, however, is extremely 
crooked, and not unfreqnently a bend occurs 
from 20 to 30 miles round, while the distance 
across is not move than a mile or two. In some 
instances, however, these distances have been 
shortened by what are termed "cut-offs," which 
are made by opening a narrow channel across 
the neck of a bend, when, on admitting the 
water, the current, running with such velocity, 
Boon forces a channel both wide and deep enough 
for the largest steamboats to go through. The 
navigation is frequently rendered dangerous, 
owing to the mighty volume of water washing 
away from sonie projecting point large masses 
of earth, -with its huge trees, which are carried 
down the stream. Others, again, are often im- 
bedded in the mud, with their tops rising above 



the water, and not unusually causing the destruc- 
tion of many a fine craft. These are called, 
in the phrase of the country, " snags" and " saw- 
yers." The whirls, or eddies, caused by the 
striking peculiarities of the river in the uni- 
formity of its meanders, are termed "points" 
and " bends," which have the precision, in many 
instances, as though they had been struck by the 
sweep of a compass. These are so regular, that 
the flat-boatmen frequently calculate distances 
by them ; instead of the number of miles, they 
estimate their progress by the number of bends 
they have passed. 

A short distance from its source, the Missis- 
sippi becomes a tolerably sized stream ; below 
the Falls of St. Anthony it is half a mile wide, 
and below the Des Moines rapids it assumes a 
medial width and character to the mouth of the 
Missouri. About 15 miles below the mouth of 
the St. Croix River, the Mississippi expands into 
a beautiful sheet of water, called Lake Pepin, 
which is 24 miles long, and from tAvo to four miles 
broad. The islands, which are numerous, and 
many of them large, have, during the summer 
season, an aspect of great beauty, possessing a 
grandeur of vegetation which contributes much 
to the magnificence of the river. The numerous 
sand-bars are the resort, during the season, of 
innumerable swans, geese, and water-fowl, The 
Upper Mississippi is a beautiful river, more so 
than the Ohio ; its current is more gentle, its 
water clearer, and it is a third wider. In general 
it is a mile wide, yet for some distance before 
commingling its waters with the Missouri it has 
a much greater width. At the junction of the 
two streams it is a mile and a half wide. The 
united stream, flowing from thence to the mouth 
of the Ohio, has an average width of little more 
than three-quarters of a mile. On its imiting 
with the Missouri it loses its distinctive charac- 
ter ; it is no longer the gentle, placid stream, 
with smooth shores and clean sand-bars, but has 
a furious and boiling current, a turbid and dan- 
gerous mass of waters, with jagged and dilapi- 
dated shores. Its character of calm magnifi- 
cence, that so delighted the eye above, is seen no 
more. 

A little below 39°, on the west side, comes in 
the mighty Missouri, which, being longer, and 
carrying a greater body of water than the Mis- 
sissippi, and Imparting its own character to tho 
united stream below, some have thought, ought 
to have given its name to the river from the 
junction. Between 36° and 37°, on the east side, 
comes in the magnificent Ohio, called by the 
French, on its first discovery. La Belle Riviere; 
for a hundred miles above the junction it is as 
wide as the parent stream. 

" No person who descend* the Mississippi 



206 



VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 



river for the first time, receives clear and ade- 
quate ideas of its grandeur, and the amount of 
water it carries. If it be in the spring of ihe 
year, ■when the river, l^elow tlie moutli of the 
Ohio, is generally over its hanlis, although the 
sheet of water that is makiug its way to the 
Gulf is, perhaps, 30 miles wide, yet, finding its 
way through deep forests and swamps, that con- 
ceal all from the eye, no expanse of water is seen 
but the width that is curved out between the 
outline of woods on either bank, and it seldom 
exceeds, and oftener falls short of a mile. But 
when he sees, in descending from the Falls of 
Bt. Anthony, that it swallows up one river after 
anotlier, with mouths as wide as itself, without 
aftecting its width at all ; when he sees it receiv- 
ing, in succession, the mighty Missouri, the 
broad Ohio, St. Francis, White, Arkansas, and 
Red Rivers, all of them of great depth, length, 
and volume of water ; when he sees this mighty 
river absorbing them all, and retaining a volume 
apparently unchanged, he begins to estimate 
rightly the increasing depths of current that 
must roll on in its deep channel to tlie sea. Car- 
ried out of the Balize, and sailing with a good 
breeze for hours, he sees nothing on any side but 
the white and turbid waters of the Mississippi, 
long after he is out of sight of land." 

Table of Places on the Mississippi River, 
with their intermediate and general dis- 
TANCES. 

Distances from the Falls of St. Anthony to St. 
Louis. 

To Fort SneUini;, Min. ) . 

St. Peter's Eirer, J 

St. Paul 5 12 

Lake Pepin, and ? «« ..., 

WaiJen's Rock, $ ™ '^ 

Chippewa Kiver 25 97 

La Crosse 89 ISG 

EootEiver , 5 191 

Bad Axe Kiver 20 211 

Upper Iowa River 9 220 

Prairie duChien 56 276 

Fort Crawford 2 278 

Wisconsin River 2 280 

Prairie la Port 20 300 

Cassville , 10 310 

Peru 20 330 

Dubuque 8 333 

Fever River 17 355 

Galena, 111., 7 miles > 
up Fever River. J 

Belleview, Iowa 7 362 

Savannab, lU 19 381 

Charleston, Iowa 2 383 

Lyons, Iowa 15 393 

New York, Iowa 5 403 

Camanchc, Iowa 7 410 

Albany,Ill 8 418 

Parkhurst, Iowa 19 437 

Davenport, Iowa, and ? ., .,„ 

Rocklslaiid, J ^^ **" 



To Bloomington, Iowa 31 471 

Kew Boston,Ill 26 497 

Iowa River 1 493 

Oquawke, 111 20 518 

Burlington, Io 15 533 

Skunk River, lo 7 510 

Madison, Io 16 556 

Montrose, Io., and ? m t^rt* 

NAUVOClU. 5 1° ^"^ 

Keokuk 12 578 

Des Moines River, and > j (-07 

Warsaw,Ill. $ * "^^ 

Tully, Mo 18 600 

La Grange, Mo 8 603 

Quinoy, 111 12 620 

Marion City, Mo ; 8 628 

Hannibal, Mo 11 639 

Louisiana, Mo 27 666 

Clarksville, Mo 13 679 

Hamburg, 111 13 692 

Westport,Mo 14 706 

Gilead, 111 15 721 

Bailey's Landing, Mo 3 734 

Illinois River, 111 15 749 

Grafton, 111 2 751 

Alton, III 18 769 

Missouri River, Mo 5 774 

St. Louis, Mo 18 792 

Distances fro7n St. Louis, Mo., to Cairo, and 
Mouth of the Ohio River. 

To Cahokia.in 3 

Carondelet, or Vide ? .17 

Pouclie, Mo. 5 * ' 

Jefferson Barracks, Mo 2 9 

Harrison, 111 20 29 

Hcrculaneum, Mo 2 31 

Selma 4 35 

Fort Chartres Island 15 50 

St. Genevieve, Mo 11 61 

Kaskaskia River, 111 14 75 

Chester, 111 1 76 

La Coarse's Island 14 90 

Devil's Bake-oven, and > -.e t«- 

Grand Tower, J " ^"^ 

Bainbridge, Mo 17 122 

Devil's Island 8 130 

Cape Girardieu, Mo 6 136 

Commerce 12 143 

Dog-tooth Island 11 159 

Elk Island 8 167 

Cairo, 111., and Mouth > „ ■■-> 

ofOkioRiver, J ° ■"" 

Distances from the Mouth of the Ohio River to 
New Orleans. 

To Island No. 1 6 

Columbus,Ky 12 18 

Wolfs Island, ?r No. 5 1 19 

Hickman, Ky 18 3T 

New Madrid, Mo 42 79 

Point Pleasant, Mo 7 86 

Little Prairie, Mo 27 US 

Needham' s Island, and Cut-off 25 138 

Eearfleld Landing, Ark 3 141 

Asbport, Tenn 5 146 

Osceola, Ark 12 158 

Plum Point 3 161 

1st Chickasaw Bluff. 5 166 

Fulton, Tenn 2 163 



VALLEY OF THE OHIO. 



207 



To Randolph, Tenn., and > ,n ,,£, 

2a CUiokasaw Bluff, J ^" "'' 

3d Chickasaw Bluff. 17 195 

Greenock, Ark 30 225 

Wolf River, Tenn. ) „n „,. 

Memphis, Tenu. 5 ^" ^^'' 

Norfolk, Miss 10 255 

Commerce, Miss 17 272 

Peyton, Miss 31 303 

St. Francis River, and? ■,„ „,. 

Sterling, Ark. 5 ^•' <'^"' 

Helena, Ark 10 326 

Yajoo Pass, or Eavou, ? in „,„ 

and Delta, Miss. $ •'" ''■'° 

Horse-shoe Bend 8 344 

Montgomery's Pt. Ark. > ko jr,.y 

Victoria, Miss. J '^^ *"'' 

■While River, Ark i 406 

Arkansas River, ? ,- ..,., 

Kapoleon, Ark. $ ^5 _," 

Bolivar Landing 13 435 

Columbia, Ark 53 488 

Point Chicot i 492 

Greenville, Miss i 496 

Grand Lake Landing, Ark 40 536 

Princeton, Miss 5 541 

Bunches Bend and Cut-off 10 551 

Lake Providence, La 19 570 

Tompkinsville, La 15 585 

' Campbellsville, La 16 601 

Millikinsville, La 10 611 

Yazoo River, Miss., and > g gig 

Sparta, La. $ 

■Walnut Hills, Miss 10 629 

A'ICKSBURG, Miss ; 2 631 

■Warrenton, Miss 10 641 

Palmyra Sett, Mis.s 15 656 

Carthage Landing, La 4 6G0 

Point Pleasant, La 10 670 

BigBlackRiver 14 684 

Grand Gulf, Miss 2 636 

St. .Joseph's, La., and > ^^ ggg 

Eruinsburg, Miss. 5 

Rodney, Miss 10 706 

Natchez, Miss ....■; 41 747 

Ellis Cliff, Miss '. 18 765 

Horaochitto River, Miss 26 791 

FortAdams 10 801 

Red River Island, and Cut-off. 11 812 

Raccouroi Cut-off and Bend 10 822 

Baj-ou Sara, St. Francisville, ? „„ „-„ 

and Pt. Coupee, La. S 

"Waterloo, La 6 858 

Pt. Hudson, La 5 863 

Baton Rogue, La 25 888 

Plaquemine, La 23 911 

Bayou la Fonrche, and > „. «.- 

Donaldsonville, La. i *>* ''■'" 

Jefferson College 16 961 

Bonnet Quarre Ch 24 985 

Red Church, La 16 1001 

Carrolton, La 19 1020 

Lafayette, La 4 1024 

New Orleans, La 2 1026 



THE OHIO RIVER 

Is formed by the .iunotion of the Alleghany 
and Monongahela, the former being navigable 
for keel-boats as far as Olean, in the State of 
K"e"w York, a distance of about 250 miles ; the 



latter is navigable for steamboats to Brownsville, 
60 miles, and by keel-boats upwards of 175 miles. 
At Pittsburg commences the Ohio, and after 
running a course of about a thousand miles, 
unites its waters with those of the Mississippi. 
No other river of the same length has such a 
uniform, smooth, and placid current. Its average 
width is about 2,400 feet, and the descent, in its 
whole course, is about 400 feet. At Pittsburg it 
is elevated about 1,150 feet above the ocean. It 
has no fall, except a rocky rapid of 22i- feet de- 
scent at Louisville, around which is a canal 2^ 
miles long, with locks sufficiently capacious to 
admit large steamboats, though not of the largest 
class. During half the year this river has a 
depth of water allowing of navigation by steam- 
boats of the first class through its whole course. 
It is, however, subject to extreme elevations and 
depressions. The average range between high 
and low water is probably 50 feet. Its lowest 
stage is in September, and its highest in March. 
It has been known to rise 12 feet in a night. 
Various estimates have been made of the rapidity 
of its current, but owing to its continually vary- 
ing, it would be difficult to assign any very exact 
estimate. It has been found, however, according 
to the different stages of the water, to vary 
between one and three miles ; in its lowest, 
however, which is in the autumn, a floating 
substance would probably not advance a mile an 
hour. 

Between Pittsburg and its mouth it is diversi- 
fied by many considerable islands, some of which 
are of exquisite beauty ; besides a number of 
tow-heads and sand-bars, which in low stages of 
the water greatly impede the navigation. The 
passages between some of the islands and the 
sand-bars at their head are among the difficulties 
of the navigation of the Ohio. 

In the infancy of the country, every species 
of water craft was employed in navigating this 
river, some of which were of the most whimsical 
and amusing description. The barge, the keel- 
boat, the Kentucky-flat or family-boat, the pi- 
rogue, ferry-boats, gondolas, skiffs, dug-outs, and 
many others, formerly floated in great numbers 
down the currents of the Ohio and Mississippi 
Rivers to their points of destination, at distances 
sometimes of three thousand miles. 

" Whoever has descended this noble river in 
the spring, when its banks are full, and the 
beautiful red-bud and Cornus Florida deck the 
declivities of the bluft's, which sometimes rise 
300 feet in height, impend over the river, and 
cast their grand shadows into the transjiarent 
waters, and are seen at intervals in its luxuriant 
bottoms, while the towering sycamore throws 
its venerable and majestic arms, decked with 
rich foliage, over the other trees— will readily 



208 



THE VALLEY OF THE OHIO. 



acknowledge the appropriateness of the French 
name, ' La Belle Riviere.'' " 

Table of places on the Ohio, from Pitts- 
BUKG TO Cincinnati, WITH their interme- 
diate AND GENERAL DISTANCES : 

To MidiUetown, Pa H 

Economy, Fa 8 19 

Freedom, Pa 6 25 

Beaver, Pa 6 SO 

Georgetown, Pa I* 44 

Liverpool, Ohio 4 48 

WellsviUe.Oliio 4 52 

Steubenville, Ohio 19 '1 

Wellsburu, Va 7 '8 

Warrenton, Oliio 1 85 

Martinsville, Ohio 8 93 

Wheeling, Va. ) ,. 1 94 

Bridgeport, Ohio J 

Elizitliethtown, Va. ) ,3 jg, 

Big Grave Creek, Va. ) 

New Martinsville, Va 19 117 

Sisterville, Va 29 14S 

Newport, Ohio 12 163 

Waeikita, and ) ifi 17r. 

Pt. Harmer, O. J 

Vienna, Va 6 182 

Parliersburg, Va. ) g jgg 

Belpre, Ohio J 

Blennerhasaet's Island 2 190 

Hockingsport, Ohio 11 201 

BellviUe, Va 4 205 

Murraysville, Va 5 210 

Shade River, Ohio 1 211 

Ravenswood, Va 11 2C'2 

Letartsville, Ohio 22 244 

Pomeroy 14 258 

Coal port, Ohio ) '- , „-„ 

Sheffield, Ohio f ■'"'' 

Point Pleasant, Va. ) 10 on 

Gt. Keuawha River, Va. J ''' ^" 

Gallipolis, 4 275 

Millersport, 24 299 

Gnyandotte, Va. ) 13 gj^ 

Proctorsville, O. i 

Emlington.0 8 320 

Big Sandy River, Va. ) . o.^, 

Cattlettsburg, Vn. | * "'* 

Hanging Rock, 13 337 

Greenupsburg, Ky 6 343 

Vi'heelersburg, O". 8 351 

Portsmouth, O. i ,« orq 

Sciot.j River, O. J ^' '"''^ 

Rockville, 16 379 

V.anceburg, Ky 3 381 

Rome.0 7 389 

Concord, Ky 6 395 

Manchester.0 7 402 

Maysville, Ky, ) ,„ -,. 

Aberdeen.O. \ ^' *'* 

Charleston, Ky 7 421 

Ripley.O 2 423 

Higginsport, 7 430 

Augusta, Ky 4 434 

Mechanicsburg, Ky 7 441 

Neville, 3 444 

Moscow 4 443 

pt. Pleasant, O. ) . .„ 

Belmont,Ky. ) 4 4!)2 



To New Richmond 5 45T 

Little Miami River, 14 471 

Culunibia, ) j 47.2 

Jamestown, K3'. ) ••••• 

CINCl^NATI, O. . ) • c ^ij-J 

Newport uud Covington, Ky. | 



Distances from Cincinnaii to the mouth of the 
OlUo. 

To North Bend.0 16 

Great Miami River, 4 20 

Lawrence, la 2 22 

Petersburg, Ky 3 25 

Aurora, la 2 27 

Belleview, Ky 6 S3 

Rising Sun, la 3 36 

Big Bone Lick Creek, ) -,0 ao 

Hamilton, Ky, J 

Paoriot.Ia '. 2 60 

War3aw,Ky 10 60 

Vevay.la 10 70 

Kentucky River 10 SO 

MADisON,Ia 12 92 

Hanover Landing, la 6 93 

New London, la 4 102 

Westpurt, Ky 6 lOj 

Utica,Ia 15 123 

JefFersonville, Ky 9 132 

LoLfisviLLE, Ky 1 133 

and from Pittsburg ^. 610 

Shippingsport, Ky 2 135 

Portland, Ky. ) , ,„(. 

New Albany, la. \ ' ">'' 

Suit River and ) iq ira 

West Point, Ky. ; '' 164 

Brandenburg, Ky 18 172 

Mockport, la 3 175 

Northampton, la 7 1S2 

Amsterdam, la 3 185 

Leavensworth, la 8 193 

Fredonia, la 5 193 

Alton, la 13 211 

Concordia, Ky 10 221 

Rome, la., and > .., „,„ 

Stevensport, Ky. 5 '-^ ^^^ 

Cloversport, Ky 10 242 

Carmelton, la 13 255 

Troy, la 6 261 

Lewisport, Ky 6 267 

Rockport, la 12 279 

Owensburg, Ky 9 288 

BonHarbor.Ky 3 291 

Enterprise, la 3 294 

Newburg, la 15 309 

Green River, Ky 6 315 

- EvansvlUe, la 9 324 

Hendersonville, Ky 12 336 

Mount Vernon, la 26 362 

Uniontown, Ky 15 377 

IV abash River 5 382 

Raleigh, Ky 6 1 53 

Shawneetown, 111 5 393 

Caseyville,-KT 9 402 

Cave in Rock, 111 14 416 

Elizabeth, II! ' 6 422 

Golconda, 111 23 445 

Cumberland River and > ,, .»„ 

Smithland, Ky. J " ™^ 

Tennessee River and > .,« .^, 

Paducah, Ky. J ■''' *'* 



TEXAS. 



209 



T» Belgrade, III 8 482 

Fort Massac, 111 2 48i 

Caleclouia, 111 25 50'J 

America, 111 3 512 

Trinity, 111 5 517 

Cairo, 111. and ? r -,,,, 

Mouth or the Ohio Eiteb J 

and from Pittsburg 999 



Distances from Pittsburg and Cincinnati. 

F'mCin, Fm P'burg. 

To St. Louis, Mo 697 1174 

Falls of St. Anthony 1439 190G 

Memphis, Teun 767 1244, 

Vicksburg 1153 1630 

Natchez 1269 1746 

New Orleans 1548 2025 



TEXAS. 

Texas, one of the younger of the great family of American States, came into the Union through 
much tribulation, her history marked with wars and rumors of wars. In the j'ear 1821 the induce, 
ments held out to settlers in this region by the Government of Mexico, to whom the territory at 
that period belonged, caused an immense rush of emigration thither from the United States. This 
new and hardier population had grown so great by the year 1832, as to quite absorb and destroy 
the original feeble spirit of the land under Mexican rule, and to embolden the exotic population to 
seek the freedom and independence there, to which they had been accustomed at home. With 
both the will and power to accomphsh their purpose, they first demanded admission for their 
State as an independent member of the Mexican confederacy ; and that being refused, they de- 
clared themselves wholly free of all allegiance whatsoever to that government. This assumption 
resulted in a war with Mexico, which after various fortunes was determined in favor of the Texana 
by the total defeat and capture of the Mexican President Santa Anna, at the memorable battle of 
San Jacinto, April 21st, 1836. The little village of San Jacinto is in Harris County, near the pres- 
ent city of Houston, in Buffalo Bayou, near its entrance into Galveston Bay. 

Texas continued to be an independent nation after the battle of San Jacinto, until her admis- 
sion in 1846, as a member of the great North American Confederacy. 

This fresh turn in events, and the disputes which followed, in respect to boundary Unes between 
the new State and the territory of Mexico, were soon followed by the war between that country 
and the United States. Again, Texas became the scenes of battle and bloodshed, enriching her 
Boil with gallant and brave associations. Two of the famous fights in this war, under the sturdy 
and victorious lead of the American General, Taylor, occurred within the limits of the present 
State. 

The immortal field of Palo Alto is near the southern extremity of Texas, between Point Isabel 
and Matamoras, 9 miles north-east of the latter town. The batUe took place on the 8th of May, 
1846. The American troops numbering 2,111, Ipd by General Taylor, had 32 killed and 47 wound- 
ed, while the Mexicans, under General Arista, amounting to 6,000 men, had 252 killed. The 
American loss unhappily included the gallant Major Ringgold. 

The battle-field of Resaca de la Palma lies in the south-eastern extremity of the State, near the 
entrance of the Rio Grande into the Gulf of Mexico. It is in close vicinage with the field of Palo 
Alto, 4 miles north of Matamoras, on the route to Point Isabel. This gallant engagement occurred 
on the 9th of May, 1846, the day following the victory of Palo Alto. The Mexicans, to the number 
of 6,000, under General Arista, were totally defeated by about 2,000 Americans, commanded by 
General Taylor. The loss of the former was about 500 killed and wounded, besides all their artil- 
lery and furniture : that of the latter was 39 killed and 82 wounded. 

Though the Lone Star* has since these days of trial gone on prospering and to prosper, she is 
not yet entirely at peace in all her borders. At the north-west plains of the Slate the people are 
still exposed to the murderous incursions of their Indian neighbors, the fierce and warUke Caman- 
ches, Apaches, and other tribes. 



• The device of the flag of the Kepublio of Texas. 



210 



TEXAS. 



The Landscape o£ Texas.-■I^^o one of 

the Southern States has a greater variety of sur- 
face than has Texas. Along the coast on the 
Bouth-east there is a flat reach of from 30 to 60 
miles in breadth ; next comes a belt of undulat- 
ing prairie country extending from 150 to 200 
miles wide, and this again is succeeded in the 
west and north-west by a region of bold hills and 
• table-lands. The plateau of Texas, including 
some portions of New Mexico, extends about 250 
miles, from north to south, and 300 miles from 
the Kio Grande east. The upper part, Llano 
Estacado or "Staked Plain," is 2,500 feet above 
the sea. This immense district is totally desti- 
tute of trees and shrubbery, excepting, some- 
times, the immediate edge of the streams. Even 
the stunted grasses which the rains call up, soon 
wither and die. The Colorado, the Brazos and 
the Red rivers, find their sources here. 

The extreme northern part of the State, ex- 
tending, perhaps, 60 miles or more, is occupied 
by a portion of the great American desert. The 
high lands of the west and north-west are yet a 
•v\ilderness, visited only by a few bold liunters in 
quest of the buflalo and other wild animals which 
abound there. The region, though, is said to 
have an inviting aspect, and to be well watered 
and fertile. 

The Colorado Hills extend in a north and south 
direction, east of the Colorado River. Between 
the Colorado and the Rio Grande, and north of 
the sources of the San Antonio and Nueces riv- 
ers, are broken and irregular chains of hills, 
probably outposts of the great Rocky Mountain 
ranges. Some of these hills — as the Organ, the 
Hueco, and the Guadaloupe Mountains — have an 
elevation of 3,000 feet above the Rio Grande ; and 
the Guadaloupe group rises to that height above 
the adjacent jjlains. 

Texas abounds in mineral wealth, as might be 
supposed from her proximity to the rich mining 
districts of Mexico. Gold and silver lie buried, 
no doubt, in large supplies in her soil. Indeed, 
the latter metal has lieen already found at San 
Saba and upon the Bidas River. Exciting ru- 
mors prevailed for a whUe, some few years since, 
of the detection of gold, west of the Colorado 
River, and between it and the San Saba Moun- 
tains. Coal is supposed to exist about 200 miles 
from the coast, in a belt extending south-west 
from Trinity River to the Rio Grande. Iron is 
found in many parts of the State ; and copperas, 
agates, lime, alum, chalcedony, jasper, and red 
and white sandstone. There are, too, salt-lakes 
and salt-springs. In a pitch lake, 20 miles from 
Beaumont, there are deposits of stilphur, nitre, 
and flre-clay. 

The coast of Texas, like that of the borders of 
all the Southern States on the Atlantic and the 



Gulf of Mexico, is lined with a chain of low 
islands, separated from the main land by haya 
and lagoons. There are the bays of Galveston, 
Matagorda, Espiritu Santa, Aranzas, Corpus 
Christi, and Laguna del Madw. These bays are 
some 30, and some nearly 100 miles in length. 

Th.e Rio Grande, or Rio Bravo del Norte, 
the largest river in Texas, of which it forms the 
southern boundary, is 1,800 miles in length. It 
comes from the Rooky Mountains to the Gulf of 
Mexico. It is a shallow stream, much broken by 
rapids and sand-bars, though small steamboats 
ascend its waters 450 miles from the sea, to 
Kingsbury Rapids. The " Great Indian Cross- 
ing" is about 900 miles from its mouth. At this 
place is the famous ford of the Apaches and the 
Camanches, when they make their predatory 
visits into Mexico. 

Th.e Colorado River runs from the table- 
lands in the north-west part of the State 90O 
miles to Matagorda Bay. Austin City, Bastrop, 
La Grange, Columbus, and Matagorda are upon 
its banks. Austin, the capital of the State, at 
the head of steamboat navigation, is 300 miles 
from the sea ; at Matagorda, at its mouth, many 
X)ortions of this river arc extremely picturesque. 

The Srazos is one of the largest of the 
Texan rivers. It runs from the table-lands of 
the west to the Gulf of Mexico, 40 miles below 
Galveston ; the direct distance from its source 
to its mouth is 500 miles, and, by the windings 
of its channel, 900 miles. It passes by Waco, 
Washington, Columbia, and Richmond. At 
high water the Brazos is navigable 300 miles 
from its mouth, to Washington, and steamboats 
may ascend 40 miles, to Columbia, at all seasons. 
Much of its course is through alluvial plains, oc- 
cupied with sugar and cotton plantations, fields 
of Indian corn, and forests of red cedar and of 
live oak. 

The Nueces comes, like most of the rivers 
of Texas, from the table and hill districts of the 
west, and flows through the State into the Gulf 
of Mexico. The Nueces follows a very eccentric 
course of 350 miles to the Nueces Bay. It may 
be ascended by steamers 100 miles. 

The San Antonio, the Guadaloupe, the Trinity, 
the Neches, and the Sabine, other chief rivers of 
Texas, are, in general character, course, and ex- 
tent, much like those of which we have already 
spoken more at length. 

The Soil of Texas is as varied as its surface 
and climate, and, for the most part, extremely 
fertile. The great staple is cotton, which thrives 
all over the State, and is of very superior quality 
in the Gulf districts. Sugar may be profitably 
cultivated in the level regions. Tobacco is 
raised with ease, and with scarcely less success 
than in Cuba itself. All the grains and grasses 



TEXAS. 



211 



of tlio north are fotmd here, •with every variety 
of tropical and other fruits and vegetation. The 
live oali, in many varieties, abounds in the for- 
ests, besides the palmetto, cedar, pine, hickory, 
■walnut, ash, pecan, mulberry, elm, sycamore, 
and cypress. 

"Wild Animals. There is every opportu- 
ritj' for the adventurous hunter, in the wildor- 
resses and prairies of Texas, "where wild animals 
of many species abound. In the north-west he 
may find the wild horse, or mustang, and the 
fierce buffalo. The deer and the antelope, the 
moose and the mountain-goat, are plentiful — not 
to mention the jaguars, the pumas, wild-cats, 
black bears, ocelots, wolves, and foxes, and such 
smaller game as peccaries, opossums, raccoons, 
hares, rabbits, and squirrels. A special feature 
of the wild life here is the prairie-dog, or mar- 
mot, dwelling in holes burrowed in tlie ground. 
Their numbers are so great that the traveller 
may sometimes journey for days together with- 
out losing sight of them. 

"Wild Birds are abundant in many varieties, 
birds of prey and birds of sport. There is the 
bald-headed eagle and the Mexican eagle, vul- 
tures, owls, hawks, wild turkeys, wild geese, 
prairie hens, canvass-back and other ducks, teal, 
brandt, pheasants, quails, grouse, woodcocks, 
pigeons, partridges, snipes, plovers, red-birds, 
and turtle-doves. By the waters are found, also, 
the crane, the swan, the pelican, the water tur- 
key, and the king-flsher. The smaller birds are 
numerous, and among them many of the most 
brilliant plumage, as the oriole, the paroquet, 
the cardinal, the whippoorwill, and the sweet- 
toned mocking-bird. Blackbirds abound, and 
woodpeckers, blue-jays, starlings, red-birds, swal- 
lows, martens, and wrens. 

In the rivers and bays there are all the vari- 
eties of water life, from alligators to perch, pike, 
trout, turtles, and oysters. 

Snakes and reptiles of all sorts are at home in 
Texas. Rattlesnakes, moccasins, copperheads, 
coach-whips, and garden snakes, horned frogs, 
and lizards, the ugly centipedes and the poison- 
ous tarantula. 

The Houston and Texas Central K. E. extends 
from Houston 70 miles to Navasota. Connects 
at Houston with steamers for G-alveston and 
New Orle.ins, and at Hempstead with a daily 
line of stages for Washington, Chappell Hill, 
Brenbam, La Grange, Austin, New Brannfels, 
and San Antonio. 

The Buflalo, Bayou, Brazos, and Coloi-ado 
Railway extends from Galveston (steamboat) 65 
miles to Harrisburg ; to Richmond (railway), 32 
miles more ; and thence by stages via Columbus 
and Bastrop. Distance from Galveston to Aus- 
tin 240 luiles. 



The Houston Tap and Brazoria R. R., from 
Houston to Columbia, 50 miles. 

Galveston. — Hotels : — Island City House. 

Galveston, with a population of 8 or 10 thous- 
and, is yet the largest city and the commercial 
metropolis of Texas. It is built on an island at 
the mouth of Galveston bay. The island of 
Galveston is about 30 miles in length and 3 miles 
broad. It is a thriving place, and with the spirit 
of progress, and its advantages as the best harbor 
on the coast, will no doubt increase rapidly in 
importance. Galveston is provided with good 
hotels, a reasonable supply of newspapers, 
chu.rch8S, and schools. The Roman CathoUo 
university Of St. Marys, the R. C. cathedral, 
and the Episcopal church arc large, noticeable 
structures of brick, in the Gothic style. There 
is in the city also a convent of Ursuline Nuns. 

The island of Galveston was for a number of 
years the rendezvous and head-quarters of the 
famous pirate of the Gulf, Lafitte, until his 
settlement was broken up in 1821 by Lieutenant 
Kearney, commanding the United States brig 
Enterprise. 

Railroads and steamers are bringing Galveston 
within speedy reach of the great country around 
it. Passengers may now leave the city on the 
Buffalo, Bayou, Brazos, and Colorado route, — 
first by steamboat 65 miles to Harrisburg — 
thence to Richmond by rail, 97 miles, and from 
Richmond by stage, to Bernard, 115 miles ; to 
Columbus, 145 miles ; to Bastrop, 210 miles"; 
and to Austin, 240 miles : through from Gal- 
veston to Austin in 60 hours, including 18 hours' 
rest. Stages go from Columbus, on this route, 
to Hallettsville, Gonsales, Seguin, and San An- 
tonio, and from Austin to all points of Western 
and North-western Texas. The whole line of 
railway between Galveston and Austin is rapidly 
progressing, and will no doubt soon be completed. 
Steamers leave Galveston daily for the city of 
New Orleans. 

SEoustou. — Hotels : — Fannin House, 

Houston from New Orleans is by steamer via 
Galveston. Houston is the second of the Texan 
cities in commercial importance. Its population 
is about 6,000. It is situated on the low lands of 
the coast stretch, upon the Buffalo Bayou, 82 
miles north-west of Galveston and 200 miles east- 
south-east of Austin City. Much of the sur- 
rounding country is a treeless savanna, covered 
with fine pasturage. _ This is a great entrepot 
for the cotton, sugar, and other products of the 
adjacent country. Houston was settled in 1S36, 
and was once the capital of Texas. There ara 



212 



TEXAS. ARKANSAS. 



excellent liotelg here. A railroad, to extend 
hence to Austin City, 13 partlj- in operation. See 
Galveston. Cars leave Houston by the Hous- 
ton and Texas Central Railway, connecting at 
Hempstead (50 miles) -with daily stage lines 
for Saa Antonio, and various other towns in the 
interior. 

Austin.— Hotels :—* 

Austin, the capital of Texas, is upon the Colo- 
rado Kiver, 200 miles by land from its mouth, 
and 230 miles west-north-west of Galveston. 
The landscape of the vicinage is strikingly pic- 
turesque. The seat of government was estab- 
lished here in 1844. The present population of 
nearly 4,000 is steadily increasing, and in due 
time the city will no doubt become a large and 
prosperous business mart. From New Orleans 
by steamer to Galveston. For routes thence see 
Galveston. 

San Antonio.— HoTBLS -.—Menger House. 



San Antonio, with a population of about 8,000, 
is one of the largest towns in Texas. It is in 
Bexar Count}-, on the San Antonio River, 110 
miles south-west of Atrstin City. Fort Alamo, 
in the vicinity, contains a United States Arsenal. 
Many of the residences here are very elegant 
and beautiful. 

Brownsville.— Hotels : — 

Brownsville, formerly Fort Brown, is opposite 
Matamoras, on the Bio Grande, 40 miles from its 
mouth. It is 300 South of Austin. Browns- 
ville is one of the chief towns of the State, with 
a population of about 6,000. It was n.amed in 
honor of Major Brown, who commanded the 
garrison at the period of the Mexican war. He 
was mortally wounded by a shell from the 
enemy's batteries (May 6, 1846) while General 
Taylor was occupied in opening a communica- 
tion with Point Isabel. The American army en- 
tered Matamoras without opposition after the 
success of Palo Alto and Kicsaca de la Palma. 



ARKANSAS. 

Arka^tsas is one of the younger States, having been admitted into the Union as late as 1S36. 
It was formerly a part of the territory of Louisiana, and was settled by the French at Arkansas 
Post, about 10S5. Its history has no very marked points, beyond rude frontier contests with the 
Indian tribes. It is a wild, desolate region of swamps, marshes, and lagoons, for a hundred miles 
back from the Mississippi River. This great plain is broken at intervals by elevations sometimes 
thirty miles in circuit. At flood periods, when the land is, as it often is, inundated, these points 
become temporary islands. Great levees are in process of construction along the banks of the 
river, by which means much of this vast tract will be converted into valuable land, with a soil of 
the richest nature. The Ozark Mountains bisect the State unequally. The middle regions, and 
the district north of the Ozark ranges, have a broken and varied surface. 

The climate, soil, vegetation, and products of the lower portion of Arkansas, are all similar to 
those of the other south-western States ; while the hilly regions above have, in all these respects, 
the more northern characteristics. The southern section is imhealthy, while the uplands are as 
salubrious as any part of the north-western State. 



Production's. The rich, blaclc, alluvion of 
the river, yields Indian corn in great luxuriance. 
This product, with cotton, tobacco, rice, many 
varieties of grain, wool, hops, hemp, flax, and 
silk, are the staples. 

The Forest trees include great quantities 
of the cotton- wood, gum, ash, and cypress, in the 
bottom lands ; and the usual vegetation of the 
north in the uplands. The sugar-maple, yielding 
lai-go BuppUes of sap, is found here. 



Wild animals range the forests and swamps 
in Arkansas as in Texas ; and quails, wild tur- 
ke3's, geese, and other birds abound. Trout 
and other fish are plentiful in the rivers and 
streams. 

Minerals. Coal, iron, zinc, lead, gypsum, 
manganese, salt, and other mineral products 
exist here. Gold, too, it is said, has been found. 
" There is," says a writer, " manganese enough 
in Arkansas to supplj'' the world ; in zinc, it ex- 



ARKANSAS. 



213 



eeeds every State except ]S"ew Jersey ; and has 
more gj-psuni tlian all the otlier States put to- 
gether ; -while it ia equally well supplied with 
Uiarhlo and salt." 

Reaching Arkansas, we leave the sea-board, 
which we have followed almost without inter- 
mission thus far, in our i-apid tour of the Union, 
from the St. Lawrence, soutliward and west- 
ward. Arkansas has no seaboard, though the 
great highway of the Mississippi well supplies 
this want ; laving, as its waters do, nearly all its 
eastern boundary, and receiving the floods and 
freights of most of the many great rivers which 
traverse every part of its wide area. 

The Arkansas River, rising in the Rocky 
Mountains, comes from the Indian Territory on 
the west, and traverses the middle of the State 
for 500 miles, gathering up in its long course the 
waters of many tributary streams, and bearing 
them to the great floods of the Mississippi. The 
entire length of this river is 2,000 miles. It is 
navigable for steamers 800 miles. Next to the 
Missouri, the Arkansas is the largest of the vas- 
sals of the " Father of Waters." 

The White River is 800 miles in length. It 
is navigable from the Mississippi — into which it 
debouches, not far from the mouth of the Ar- 
kansas — 350 miles to the mouth of the Black 
River, and at some periods of the year 50 miles 
yet higher up, to Batesville. As along the other 
rivers of Arkansas, the cypress covers the 
swamps of the Mississippi vicinage, and gives 
place to the pine and other vegetation higher up. 
This stream has numerous large affluents, among 
them the Big North Fort, Bryant's Fork, the 
Little North Fork, and Buffalo Fork. 

The St. Francis, the Red River, the 
Washita, and other waters, bear the same gen- 
eral characteristics as the streams already men- 
tioned. There are no lakes in this State of 
especial extent or interest. 

Railways have not thus far been much need- 
ed in Arkansas, with her great facilities of water 
communication, and her thin population. A 
route is now in progress from Memphis to Little 
Rock. This line is completed at this time be- 
tween the former city and Madison. In some 
future edition of this work, we shall no doubt be 
called upon to unravel the iron web of travel 
here, as, now, in most of the other States of the 
Union. 

Liittle Rock. — Hotels : — Anthony House. 

Little Rook — accessible by steamboat from the 
Mississippi, and from Memphis as far west 
as Madison, by railway ; the remaining portion 
of the railway route is in progress. Arkansas 
has as yet no towns of any considerable extent. 



Little Rock, the capital, with a population of 
3,000 or 4,000, is the largest. It is situated on 
the top of a rocky bluff, the first of these charac- 
teristic precipices which is seen in the ascent of 
the Arkansas River, 300 miles up. The State 
House is a handsome, rough-cast brick edifice. 
Tlie Penitentiary is located here, and there is 
also a United States Arsenal. Regular com- 
munication with points on the Arkansas and 
the Mississippi Rivers. 

Route From Little Rock to Fort Smith and Fort 
Gibson. — To Lewisburg, 45 ; Ft. Remove, 52 ; 
D wight, 76; Scotia, 82; Clarksville, 98; Horse- 
Head, 109 ; Ozark, 121 ; Pleasant Hill, 135 ; 
Van Buren, 160 ; Fort Smith, 165 ; Fort Gibson, 

23 miles. 

From Little Rock to Batesville, Ark. — To 
Oakland Grove, 30 ; Searcy, 50 ; Batesville, 95 
miles. 

From Batesville to lux's Ferry. — To Sulplmr 
Springs, 10 ; Smithville, 35 ; Jackson, 50 ; Hix's 
Ferry, SO miles. 

From Little Rock to Helena, Ark.— To Big 
Prairie, 25 ; Rook Roe, 38 ; Lawrenceville, 48 ; 
Lick Creek, 76 ; Helena, 91 miles. 

From Little Rock to Napoleon, Ark. — To Pine 
Bluff, 50; Richland, 72; Arkansas Post, 118; 
Wellington, 133; Napoleon, 148 miles. 

From Little Rock to Columbia, Ark. — To Pine 
Bluff, 50; Bartholomew, 120; Columbia, 145 
miles. 

From Little Rock to Memphis, Tenn.—To Cla- 
rendon, 65 ; St. Francis, 115 ; Marion, 145 ; Mis- 
sissippi River, 154 ; Memphis, 155 miles. 

From Little Rock to Fulton, Ark. — To Benton, 

24 ; Rockport, 55 ; Raymond, 80 ; Greenville, 93 ; 
Washington, 129 ; Fulton and Red River, 144 
miles. 

The Hot Springs are situated a few miles 
north of the Washita River. 

A line of stages runs hence from Little Rock, 
53 miles. 

Projecting over the Hot Spring Creek there is 
a point of land from 150 to 200 feet high, forming 
a steep bank. More than one hundred springs 
issue hence, in temperature varying from 135° 
to 100° Fahrenheit. The region is one of very 
great resort. 

Alabaster Mountain. In Pike County, 
on the Little Missouri River, there is a mountain 
of alabaster, of fine quality, and white as new- 
fallen snow. 

Natural Bridge. In the neighborhood of 
the Alabaster Mountain, there is a remarkable 
natural bridge formation, which is regarded as a 
very curious and interesting scene. 

"Van Buren, the most commercial town of 
Arkansas, is 160 miles west-north-west of Little 
Rock, within five miles of the Indian Terri- 



214 



AEKANSAS. — TENNESSEE. 



tory. It is pleasantly Bituated on the Arkansas, 
River. 

Batesville, with a population of about 2,000, 
i3 upon the White River, 400 miles from its 
mouth. Small steamers ascend at nearly all sea- 
60118. Bates\-illo is distant from Little Rock (see 
route) 90 miles ; from Memphis, Tenn. 115 miles. 

Fort Smitli is a thriving village on tbe Ar- 
kansas River, 163 miles ■west-north-west, by 
land, of Little Rock. 

Camden, is upon the Washita River, 110 
miles from Little Rock. 



Napoleon, 125 miles south-east of Little 
Rock, is upon the Mississippi River, at the 
mouth of the Ai'kansas. It is a busy and thriv- 
ing jilace — the scat of a United States Marine 
Hospital. 

Arkansas Post, is upon the Arkansas Ri- 
ver, some 60 miles from its mouth. It is an an- 
cient settlement, having been occupied by the 
French as early as 1685. It was, for many years, 
the chief depot of the peltries of the country far 
around. 



TENKESSEE. 

The territory, which now forms the State of Tennessee, was settled hefore any other of the 

lands west of the AUoghanies, Fort Loudon having been built by adventurers from North Carolina 
as early as 1757. The early history of the country is, like that of the neighboring State of Ken- 
tucky, full of the records of bloody struggles with the Indian occupants of the soil. 

The little band of pioneers at Fort Loudon, were not, of course, suflered to rest peacefully in 
their new home ; on the contrary, they were aU either butchered or driven away. In a few years, 
though, the axes of the whites again rung through the wild forests, and their cabins dotted the 
land, gradually clustering into villages and towns. Tennessee was admitted, in 1796, as the six- 
teenth member of the American Union. She played a very honorable part in the war of 1812. 

The landscape of Tennessee is most varied and agreeable, though none of the great natural 
wonders of the Republic lie within her borders. Her mountain, valley, and river scenery is ex- 
ceedingly beautiful, and t\t11 become famous as it becomes known. The Cumberland Hills, and 
other ranges of the Appalachian chain, pass through her western area, separating her from Korth 
Carolina, and shutting in the valleys of the Holston and other rivers. Tbe height of the mountain 
ridges and summits here is variously estimated at from 1,500 to 2,000 or more feet. They are most 
of them covered with a rich forest growth to the top, where the axe and the plough have not 
changed their native character. The central portion of the State, stretching from the mountains 
to the Tennessee Ri%-er, has a broken surface, while beyQnd, towards the Mississippi, which 
makes the western boundary, the country is comparatively level. 

Many valuable mineral products are found here — coal and iron in great abundance, and rich de- 
posits of copper. Gold, too, has been detected, and silver, lead, zinc, manganese, magnetic-iron 
ore, gypsum of superior quality, and a great variety of beautiful marbles, slate, nitre, burr-stones, 
and limestone. Salt and mineral springs, the latter of very valuable character, abound. 

The climate here, excepting in the river lowlands, is most agreeable and healthful ; exempt 
alike from the winter severities of the K^orth, and from the summer heats of the South. 

Immense quantities of hve stock are raised in Tennessee ; more, indeed, than in any other part 
of the Union. It is, too, a vast tobacco, cotton, and corn-growing region. The culture of hemp, 
buckwheat, rye, oats, barley, maple, sugar, and many other agricultural products occupy the in- 
dustry and contribute to the wealth of the people. 



The Tennessee Hiver enters the State at 
its south-east extremity, from North Carolina, 
and forms the chief aifluent of the Ohio. Its 
sources are among the Alleghanies, in Virginia, 



flowing under the names of the Clinch and the 
Holston Rivers, until they unite at Kingston, 
in Tennessee. The' first course of the main 
stream is southwest to Chattanooga, near the 



TEBnSTESSEE. 



215 



point where the States of Tennessee, Georgia, 
and Alabama meet. From Chattanooga it turns 
towards tlie north-west, until the obstruction 
of the Cumberland Mountains bends its current 
southward again, and sends it off on a delour of 
SOOmiles into Upper Alabama and the north-east 
corner of the Mississippi. It gets back to Ten- 
nessee at this point, and for the second time 
traverses the entire breadth of the State, crosses 
Kentucky, and reaches the end of its journc^y at 
Paducah, 48 miles from the mouth of the Ohio. 
The length of the Tennessee proper is about 800 
miles ; including its longest Branch, the Hol- 
Bton, its -waters extend 1,100 miles. The only 
important obstruction in the navigation of the 
Tennessee is that great 20 miles stretch of rapids 
in Alabama, the Muscle Shoals (see Alabama). 
Steamboats ascend the river nearly 300 miles, to 
the foot of these rapids, and above to Knoxville, 
on the Holston, nearly 500 miles. A railway 
supplies the missing link in the passage of the 
river caused by the intervention of the rapids. 
Knoxville and Chattanooga are the principal 
places in Tennessee passed by this river. In 
Alabama, Tuscumbia, and Florence ; and in 
Kentucky, Paducah. 

The upper waters of the Tennessee, and all 
that portion of the river in the eastern and mid- 
dle parts of the State, are extremely beautiful ; 
varied as the landscape is, by -wild mountain 
scenes, and fertile pastoral lands. In the neigh- 
borhood of Chattanooga, where the Look-out 
Mountain lifts its bold crest, the scenery is 
especially attractive. It -would be difBcult to 
find a more charming picture than that from the 
summit of the Look-out Mountain, over the 
smiling valley of the Tennessee, and the capri- 
cious windings of the river. 

The chief rivers of the Tennessee, besides its 
great namesake, and the two branches from 
•which it is formed — the Holston and the Clinch 
— are the Hiawasse, from Georgia, the Hatchee, 
and the Duck River. All the waters of the 
State are ultimately absorbed by the Mississippi, 
in its western boundary. 

Kailways in Tennessee. Nashville and 
Chattanooga, 151 miles from Nashville, in the 
North Central part of the State, to Chattanooga, 
near the Georgia and Alabama lines, connecting 
■with the Georgia and South' Carolina Railway 
system. To be extended north-west to the Ohio 
River. 

Tennessee and Alabama. In operation south- 
ward to Columbia; to be extended and connected 
with routes from Mobile, Alabama, and from 
New Orleans. 

East Tennessee and Georgia. From Knoxville, 
south-west, 103 miles to Dalton, Georgia, con- 
necting with the railways of that State. To be 



extended north-east, by the East Tennessee and 
Virginia, to the railways of Virginia and west, 
from Knoxville to Nashville. 

Memphis and Charleston, 310 miles from Mem- 
phis to Chattanooga, partly on the southern bor- 
ders of extreme Western Tennessee, through 
the upper part of Mississippi and Alabama, into 
East Tennessee. 

Memphis and Granada, southward, from Mem- 
phis to the Mississippi and Louisiana roads. 

Besides these routes now in operation many 
others are being constructed or are proposed. 

Nashville,— Hotels : — Nashville Hotel. 

Nashville, the capital of Tennessee and the 
most important town in the commonwealth, is 
most agreeably situated on the south side of 
Cumberland River, and at the head of steam- 
boat navigation. The site of the town consists 
of an entire rock, covered in some places by a 
thin soil, and elevated from 50 to 175 feet above 
the river. This place, owing to its healthy loca- 
tion, is the resort of numbers from the lower 
country during the heat of summer. Numerous 
steamboats of the first class are owned here, 
which ply at regular intervals between Nash- 
ville and Cincinnati, and other places. 

Both the public and private buildings of 
Nashville are highly creditable to the taste and 
the liberality of the people ; many of the latter 
are really sumptuous in their character. The 
capitol, in its bold position 175 feet above the 
river, and in its elegant and costly architecture, 
is a very imposing structure. It is built of fine 
limestone, much like marble, which was quarried 
on the spot. Its noble dimensions are 240 by 135 
feet. Its cost was about $1,000,000. The Luna- 
tic Asylum-is a superb affair, and so, too, is the 
Penitentiary, with its 310 feet fagade. Here is 
the University of Nashville, founded in 1806. Its 
Medical School has over 100 students. The Min- 
eral Cabinet of the late Dr. Troost is the richest 
private collection in the United States. A wire 
Suspension Bridge spans the Cumberland River 
here. It was built at a cost of $100,000. The 
city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with 
water frofla the river. The population of Nash- 
ville was in 1853, about 20,000. The city is 200 
miles from the mouth of the Cumberland River, 
230 miles east-north-east of Memphis, 206 miles 
south-west of Lexington, Kentucky, and 684 
miles from "Washington. Railroads are in pro- 
gress, which will connect it with Louisville, 
Kentucky, and thence with all the great railways, 
north and east— others, which will unite it with 
all the Atlantic States via Knoxville and the 
Virginia routes, while it is already in daily and 
unbroken communication with the Atlantic, via 



21G 



TENNESSEE. 



the ISTashville and Chattanooga route, connecting 
with the Georgia railways, Atlanta, Augusta, 
Savannah, and Charleston, S. C, and with Mont- 
gomery, on the great Une from New York to 
New Orleans. 

The Herraitage, Home of General 
Jackson. The traveller, while in this vicin- 
age, will not fail to make a pilgrimage to the 
spot sacred as the hearthstone of the great Gen- 
eral and Statesman, Andrew Jackson. 

. Memphis. — Hotels : — Gayoso House, cor- 
ner of Selby and AlcCall Btreets. 

Memphis is finely situated upon the Tenth 
ChickasawBluff of the Mississippi, at the mouth 
of the Wolf River. It is in the south-west cor- 
ner of the State, upon the site of Fort Pickering. 
The city presents a striking appearance as seen 
from the water, with its esplanade several hun- 
dred feet in width, sweeping along the bluff and 
covered with large warehouses. It is the chief 
town on the Mississippi, between New Orleans 
and St. Louis. Its population amounted in 1853 
to over 12.000. Memphis is 781 miles from New 
Orleans, 120 miles below St. Louis, and 209 miles 
from Nashville. The Memphis and Charles- 
ton railway connects the city via Chattanooga, 
Tenu., and Atlanta and Augusta, Georgia, with 
the Atlantic at Savannah, and at Charleston, 
B. C. A railway to Little Rock, Arkansas, and 
others to Nashville, are in course of construction. 

Knoxville.— Hotels : — Lamar House. 

Knoxville is upon the Holston River, four 
miles from its junction with the French Broad : 
185 miles east of Nashville and 204 miles south- 
east of Lexington, Kentucky. It is connected 
by the East Tennessee and Georgia railway with 
all the great routes of Georgia to the Atlantic, 
and with the highway to New Orleans, viaMont- 
gomerj' and Mobile in Alabama ; also by the 
East Tennessee and Virginia railway, with Rich- 
mond, Virginia, and all the great thoroughfares 
of the country. The great route from Boston to 
New Orleans vnW pass through Knoxville. The 
citj- is a pleasant and prosperous one, with a pop- 
ulation at this time of some 10,000. Formerly it 
•was the capital of the State. The university of 
East Tennessee, founded in 1S07, is here. Here, 
too, is the largest manufactory of window glass 
la the Southern States. 

Chattanooga. — Hotels : — Crutchjield 
House. 

Chattanooga is upon the Tennessee River, in 



the southern part of the State, where its houn' 
dary is touched by Alabama and Georgia. It is 
250 miles from Knoxville by water, and 140 miles 
south-east of Nashville. It is a great railway 
centre, being tlie terminus of the Nashville and 
Chattanooga route, from Nashville, being also 
upon the Georgia routes, reaching to Knoxville, 
and thence througii Virginia ; and upon the great 
line from Charleston, S. C, to the Mississippi at 
Memphis. The Tennessee River is navigable 
two-thirds of the year, and at all times for 
small boats, from the Ohio to Chattanooga. 
Population about 6,000. See Look-out Mountain 
in the chapter upon Georgia for the beautiful 
landscape surroundings of Chattanooga. 

ColTimhia. — Hotels : — Nelson Hotel. 

Columbia (population about 5,000) is upon the 
Duck River, 41 miles below Nashville, upon the 
line of the great railway now in process of con- 
struction from Nashville to the Gulf of Mexico, 
and New Orleans— in operation (at the uppei: 
end) from Nashville to Columbia. Jackson Col- | 
lege is located here. The Maury Female Acad- | 
emy occupies an imposing edifice.,' Columbia , 
was the home of Mr. Polk before his election in 
1844 to the Presidency of the United States. 

MurfreesTboro'. — Hotels : — City Hotel. 

Murfreesboro' is 30 miles below Nashville, on 
the railway route via Chattanooga, Atlanta, and 
Augusta, to Charleston, Savannah, etc. The ' 
town is built in a beautiful and picturesque val- 
ley. It is the seat of the Union University (Bap- 
tist), established in 1841. Murfreesboro' was the 
capital of Tennessee from 1817 to 1827, a pleasant 
and thriving town. 

Jackson is upon the Forked Deer River, 180 
miles below Nashville by stage. The Mobile and 
Ohio Railway passes here. 

Lebanon, the seat of the Cumherland Uni- 
versity, is 30 miles east of Nashville, by stage. 

Caves and Mounds in Tennessee.— 
While in Eastern Tennessee, the traveller should 
not fail to see some of the numerous caves in the 
Cumberland Mountains. Upon the Enchanted 
Rock, here, are some singular impressions of tl^e 
feet of men and animals. In Coffee County, ndt 
far from Manchester, there is an ancient stone 
fort, enclosed by a wall, upon which trees are 
growing, whose age is supposed to exceed 500 
years. This mysterious fortification is situated 
between two rivers, and occupiea an area of 47 
acres. 



• 



n 



m 



KENTTJOKT. 21 7 



KEFTUOKY. 

"The highest phase of Western character," says Mr. Tuckerman, ''is doubtless to be fonnd 
in Kentucky, and iu one view best illustrates the American in distinction from European civiliza- 
tion. In the North this is esseutiallj' modifled by the cosmopolite influence of the seaboard, and 
in the South bj^ a climate which assimilates her people with those of the same latitudes elsewhere ; 
but in the West, and especially in Kentucky, we find the foundations of social existence laid by 
the hunter — whose love of the woods, equality of condition, habits of sport and agriculture, and 
distance from conventionalities, combine to nourish independence, sti-ength of mind, candor, and a 
fresh and genial spirit. The ease and freedom of social intercourse, the abeyance of the passion 
for gain, and the scope given to the plaj' of character, accordingly developed a race of noble apti- 
tudes ; and we can scarcely imagine a more appropriate figure in the foreground of the picture 
than Daniel Boone, who embodies the honesty, intelligence, and chivalric spirit of the State." 

The first visit of Boone to the wilderness of Kentucky was about the j'ear 1769, at which period 
he and his hardy companions made the earliest settlement at Boonesborough. In 1774, Harrods- 
burg was begun, and Lexington a year or two afterwards. The pioneers in their western forests 
nret with all the adventure their hearts could desire — more, indeed ; for so great was their ex- 
posure and suffering, for many long years, from the cruel enmity of the savage populations, that 
the country came to be known as " the dark and bloody ground." A memorable battle was fought 
near the Blue Lick Springs, Aug. 19, 17S2, between the Kentuckians and the Indians — an unequal 
and disastrous conflict, in which the colonists were routed, with a loss of sixty men, among them 
a son of the gallant Boone. 

In 1778, Du Quesne, with his Canadian and Indian army, was bravely repulsed at Boones- 
borough. Kentucky came into the Union in 1792, being the second State admitted after the 
Revolution. 

The physical aspect of Kentucky is one of changing and wonderful beauty, as we shall see in 
subsequent visits to some of her marvellous natural scenes. The Cumberland Mountains traverse 
the eastern counties, and a line of hills follows the course of the Ohio River, with meadow 
stretches between, sometimes ten, and even twenty miles in width. The State is well supplied 
with coal, iron, and other minerals. Salt and mineral springs of great repute abound. 

The chief agricultural staples of this region are hemp, flax, tobacco, and Indian corn : of the 
first two of these products, a greater quantity is raised here than in any other State. In tobacco, 
Kentucky is second only to Virginia, and in the product of Indian corn she is behind Ohio alone. 



Elvers. — The Ohio River forms the entire 
northern boundary of Kentucky, and the Mis- 
sissippi washes all her western shore ; thus giv- 
ing her, with the aid of the many streams which 
come from the interior of the State into these 



miles — thirty miles between perpendicular pre- 
cipices, from three to five hundred feet high, 
and only a biscuit-toss across at the top — and 
you have a river of whose remarkable beauty 
the world is strangely ignorant." 



great highways, the greatest possible faciUties I The Ciiinberland Kiver is one of the larg- 
for the transportation of her staples to all mar- 1 est of the tributaries of the Ohio. It has its 
kets. ■ source in the Cumberland Mountains, in the 

Tlie Kentucky River, Hke most of the | south-east corner of the State, and flows 600 



streams here, is remarkable for picturesque 
beauty ; its passage, in a course of 200 miles, 
north-west, to the Ohio, is often through bold 
limestone ledges, ranged on either side of the 
narrow dark channel in grand perpendicular 
cliff's. " Deepen Trenton Falls," says Mr. Wil- 
lis, "for one or two hundred feet, smooth its 



miles, making a bend into Tennessee, and then 
traversing western Kentucky. It is navigable 
for steamers 200 miles to Nashville, and some- 
times to Carthage, while small craft may ascend 
300 miles yet higher. About 14 miles from Wil- 
Uamsburg there is a fine fall of 60 feet perpendic- 
ular in this river. 



cascades into a river, and extend it for thirty The Licking' River flows from the Cuni- 

10 



218 



KESTTtrOKT. 



berland Mountaini?, 200 miles, into the Ohio, op- 
posite Cincinnati. Steamboats may ascend 50 
miles to Falmouth. This river varies in width 
from 50 to 100 yards. Its banks are often loft}' 
and precipitous, covered with huge forest trees. 
The Souih Licking and the North Fork are 
among its tributaries. 

Green Kiver is about 300 miles in length. 
It rises ill the eastern section of the State, and 
flows westward for some 150 miles, through the 
limestone regions and by the Mammoth Cave, 
finally entering the Ohio nine mUes above Evans- 
Tille in Indiana. It is navigable in high water, 
and by the aid of locks and dams, for steam- 
boats, 200 miles to Greensburg. 

Salt River, n.amed in token of the Salt 
Springs which abound in its vicinity, enters the 
Ohio 22 miles below Louisville. This is the 
fabled retreat of defeated politicians and other 
unhappy adventurers. 

The Tennessee River rises among the 
Cumberland Mountains of Eastern Kentucky, 
and flows 70 miles within the limits of this State. 
(See Tennessee.) 

Railways. Covington and Lexington, 99 
miles south from Covington, on the Ohio, oppo- 
site Cincinnati, to Lexington, on a branch of the 
Ellvhorn river, via Falmouth. 

Louisville and Frankfort and Lexington and 
Frankfort Railways, 94 miles from Louisville, 
on the Ohio, to Lexington via Frankfort. 

Louisville and iSTashville. This route extends 
185 miles, forming an important link in the great 
chain of roads which bind Tennessee so closely 
with ah the northern and southern States of the 
Union. 

Xionlsville. — Hotels : — The Kaiional, on 
Main street; the United States, on Jefferson 
street. 

To reach Louis\'ille from Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and intermediate places, 
see Cincinnati and routes to that city. From 
Cincinnati, take the steamer down the Ohio 
river, 133 miles to Louisville ; or take the Ohio 
and Mississippi Railway 8T miles to Seymour, 
and thence by the Jeflersonville Railway 59 
miles to JeffersonviUe, opposite Louisville. Tliis 
is the best land route. Total distance to Louis- 
villo from Cincinnati, 146 miles. Louisville may 
also he reached less directly, from Cincinnati by 
the Kentucky Railwaj-s, the Covington and Lex- 
ington, 99 miles to Lexington, and thence by the 
Louisville and Lexington, via Frankfort, 94 
miles ; from Cincinnati to Louisville, by this 
route, 193 miles. Louisville may be reached 
fi-om Pittsburg, western terminus of the Penn- 
sylvania Railway, from Philadelphia or from 



"Wheeling, western terminus of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railway from Baltimore, by steamboat 
down the Ohio. From St. Louis there is a direct 
Railway communication by the new route of the 
Ohio and Mississippi road from Cincinnati to St. 
Louis. The way heretofore has been by routes 
higher up ; the "Terre Haute and Alton" to In- 
dianapoUs, and thence by the Jeflersonville Rail- 
way. 

Louisville, with a popnlatlan of about 100,000, is 
the chief city of Kentucky. Its position is at the 
Falls of the Ohio, where Beargrass Greek enters 
La Belle Riviere. The topography is most agree- 
able, aflFording fine views from many parts of the 
tsrrace elevation of 70 feet. 

The Falls, which are quite picturesque in ap- 
pearance, may be seen from the town. In high 
stages of the water they almost entirely disappear, 
and steamboats pass over them ; but when the 
water is low, the whole width of the river, which 
is scarcely less than a mile, has the appearance 
of a great many broken rivers of foam, making 
their way over the falls. The river is divided by 
an island, which is now rapidly disappearing. To 
obviate the obstiiiction to the navigation caused 
by the falls, a canal two and a half miles in length 
has been cut round them, to a place called Ship- 
pingsport. It was a work of immense labor, being, 
for the greater part of its com-se, cut through the 
solid rock. The extent of the city river-wards is 
over two miles. The course of the leading 
streets is in this direction. They are, for the 
most part, wide, well paved, and delightfully 
shaded with noble trees. 

The principal public buildings are the Court 
House, the Medical College, the Male High School, 
the Female High School, the Custom House, the 
Blind Asylum, the Cathedral, and several fine 
churches, of various denominations. The Cave 
Hill Cemetery is an- Interesting and much admired 
spot. 

Silver Creek, 4 miles below the city, on the In- 
diana side (cross by ferry from Portland), is a 
beautiful rocky stream, and a fiivorite fishing 
and ijic-uic place of the Louisville ruralizers. 
There is a small but fair hotel here. Another 
pleasant excursion is to the mouth of Harrod'a 
Creek, 8 miles up the Ohio. There are, too, 
famous drives on the Lexington and Bardstown 
turnpikes, through a beautiful and richly cul- 
tivated country. The road along the borders of 
Bear Grass Creek, Lexington-wards, is very 
.agreeable. The fine forest vegetation, the 
charming parkhke groves, the hemp fields and 
the blue grass pastures, all help to furnish forth 
delight in the LouisviUe suburban rides and 
rambles. 

Louisville is connected with Frankfort, 65 
miles distant, by Railway, and with Lexington, 



KENTTJOKT. 



219 



94 rcilcs. A railway to Nashville lias lieen re- 
cently completed, by which the tourist is put 
In tlie immediate neighborhood of the Mammoth 
Cave. 

Lexington. — Hotels :— The Phcenix House. 



From Cincinnati, by the Lexington and Co- 
vington Railway, 99 miles : from Louisville, by 
the Louisville and Frankfort and Lexington and 
Frankfort, 94 miles. 

Lexington, upon the Town Fork of the Elk- 
horn River, is one of the most beautiful and 
most opulent of the Kentucky cities. In popu- 
lation (about 13,000) it is the second place in the 
State. The streets are regular, broad, well- 
paved, well-built, and delightfully shaded. Here 
is the seat of the Trmisylvania University, the 
Law and Medical schools of which are held in 
high repute. The University Library numbers 
over 14,000 volumes. The State Lunatic Asylum 
occupies a prominent locale. 

A monument in honor of Henry Clay, whose 
home of Ashland is close by, has been erected 
in Lexington. This city was once the Capital of 
Kentucky. 

AsMand, tlie Home of Clay. The old 
Clay homestead (lately replaced by a new man- 
sion) stood about a mile and a half from Lexing- 
ton, and the locality is, of course, the chief ob- 
ject of interest in this neighborhood. " Walking 
slowly and thoughtfully up," says Mr. Greeley, 
" a noble avenue that leads easterly from Lex- 
ington, the traveller finds the road terminating 
abruptly in front of a modest, spacious, agree- 
able mansion, only two stories in height, and of 
no great architectural pretensions. Mr. Clay 
lived at Ashland between forty and fifty years. 
The place bore the name when he went to it, 
pi-obably, as he said himself, on account of the 
ash timber with which it abounds, and he made 
it one of the most delightful retreats in all the 
"West. The estate is about 600 acres large, ail 
under the highest cultivation, except some 200 
acres of park, which is entirely cleared of under- 
hrush and small trees, and is, to use the words 
of Lord Morpeth, who stayed at Ashland nearly 
a week, the nearest approach to an English park 
of any m this countrj^ It serves for a noble 
pasture, and here Mr. Clay had some of the finest 
horses and Durham cattle in America. The 
larger part of the farm is devoted to wheat, rye, 
hemp, etc., and the crops look most splendid. 
Mr. Clay paid great attention to the ornamenta- 
tion of the land with beautiful shade trees, 
shrubs, flowers, and fruit orchards. From the 
road which passes the place on the north-west 
side, a carriage-way leads up to the house, lined 



with locusts, cypress, cedar and other fine trees, 
and the rose, jasmine, and ivy clamber about 
them, and peep through the grass and the 
boughs like so many tiwnkling fairies. The 
mansion is neai-'ly hidden from the road by the 
surrounding trees ; and is as quiet and secluded, 
save to the throng of pilgrims continually pour- 
ing thither, as though it were a wilderness. 
After the death of Mr. Clay, the estate of Ash- 
land was sold at public auction, but was pur- 
chased by James B. Clay, the great statesman's 
eldest son, and so the honored and beloved little 
homestead remains yet, happily, in the family 
X^ossession. Let it be sacredly and forever pre- 
served." 

Covington.— Hotels :— Magnolia House. 

Covington, opposite Cincinnati (see routes 
from all points to Cincinnati), is one of the prin- 
cipal cities of Kentucky, with a population of 
about 14,000. It is upon the Ohio, immediately 
below the point where the Licking River comes 
in. Across the Licking is the suburban town of 
Newport. Steam ferries unite it with Cincin- 
nati, and the great suspension bridge (see Cin- 
cinnati) will soon m.ake a yet better means of 
communication thence. Covington is built upon 
a broad and beautiful plain, very much after the 
topography of the great Ohio city opposite, to 
which, indeed, it may be regarded as suburban. 
This is the seat of the Western Theological Col- 
lege, a prosperous and richly-endowed institu- 
tion. There are here large manufactories of 
cotton, hemp, silk, and tobacco. The place, too, 
like Cincinnati, is greatly addicted to the salting 
and packing of pork and beef. 

Ue^yport.— Hotels : — Barloio's Hotel. 

Newport, across the Licking River from Cov- 
ington, has a population of about 9,000. Like 
the neighboring cities of Covington and Cincin- 
nati, to which it owes its prosperity, it is delight- 
fully and advantageously situated. It will proba- 
bly soon absorb the large adjoining viUages of 
Jamestown and Brooklyn. 

Frankfort.— Hotels -.—Capitol House. 

Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky, is situated 
on the east bank of the Kentucky River, 60 
miles above its entrance into the Ohio. The 
site of the town is a deep valley, surrounded by 
precipitous hills. The river flows in deep lime- 
stone banks ; the quarries of which yield a fine 
stone, or marble, of which many of the houses 
are built. The heights on the north-east afford 
fine peeps at the beautiful Bceaery of the Ken- 



220 



KENTUCKY. 



tucky waters. The State Capitol occupies an 
eminence, midway between tlic river and 
upper end of the valley. It is a fine structure, 
built of marble, quarried in the neighborhood. 
Here, too, is the State Penitentiary. The town 
is connected with the village of South Frankfort, 
across the river, by a good bridge. Population 
some 6,000. Distance from Louisville, by the 
Louisville and Frankfort Eaihvay, 65 miles ; 
from Lexington, by tlie Frankfort and Lexington 
Railway, 29 miles ; from Cincinnati, by railways 
via Lexington, 12S miles. 

Maysville.— Hotels -.—Lee House. 

Maysvillo (population some 8,000), is upon the 
Ohio River, 00 miles above Cincinnati, and 60 
miles north-east of Lexington, from Cincinnati 
by steamboat. At Portsmouth, Ohio, some 50 
miles above, on the Ohio Kiver, railway lines 
come in from all parts of the country, nortli and 
east. Maysville is upon Limestone Creek, 
whose name it formerly bore. The position of 
the town is in the midst of a varied hill-land- 
Bcape. It is, in business and population, the 
fourth city of Kentucky, and its greatest hemp 
mart. This is the entrepot for the merchandise 
and produce imported and exported by the 
north west section of the State. Railways will 
soon connect it with other jjoints. 

Paducah. (population nearly 4,000), is upon 
the Ohio, just below the mouth of the Tennessee, 
340 miles from Louisville ; 473 miles from Cin- 
cinnati. Paducah bears the name of an Indian 
chief who once lived in the neighborhood. 

Harrodsburg, a town of over 3,000 people, 
and the oldest settlement in Kentucky, is upon 
an eminence near Salt River, about 30 miles 
below Frankfort and Lexington. The first cabin 
ever built in the State was erected here by Cap- 
tain James Ilarrod, in 1774. Here is the seat of 
Bacon ColJege, and of a, Military Academy, The 
greatest attractio;), however, of Harrodsburg, is 
its celebrated mineral springs, which make it 
the most famous summer resort of all the coun- 
try round. 

Harrodsburg Springs. See Harrods- 
burg, ante. Tiiis is one of the most fashionable 
watering places of Kentucky, and is, in the 
crowded season of July and August, "the grand 
field of tournament for Western flirtation, and 
the gathering point forpoliticiansoutof liarness, 
and for such wealthy Westerners and Southern- 
ers as like to spend their money on the side of 
the Alleghauies tliat slopes toward home." The 
hotel here with all its surroundings and appoint- 
ments, is most admirable. Dr. Graham, the libe- 
ral proprietor, has already expended more than 
§300,000 upon tho embellishment of the place 



and so expended it, that it all sensibly contril> 
utes to the comforts and enjoyments of his 
guests. 

Knob Lick is an interesting spot, within ex- 
cursion distance of the Harrodsburg Sjirings — 
15 miles distant. The Knobs or hillocks here 
are from 100 to 200 feet high, more or less coni- 
cal, some of them insulated, others connected by 
crumbling isthmuses ; the whole forming a 
group of barren conoidal eminences, which are 
finely contrasted with the deep verdure of the 
surro-unding plain. 

The Devil's Pulpit ia a wonderful rock and 
ravine ; a passage in the bold landscape in the 
Kentucky River, accessible from Harrodsburg 
in a twenty-mile excursion. 

The Blue liick Springs is a watering 
place of high repute, on the Licking River, in 
Nicholas County. Easily reached by stage from 
Paris, a station on the Covington and Lexington 
Railway ; 19 miles from Lexington ; 80 miles 
from Covington, opposite Cincinnati. These 
springs contain soda, magnesia, lime, sulphuret- 
ted hydrogen, and carbonic acid, in combination 
with muriates and sulphates. 

Drennon Springs (black and salt sulphur), 
are upon the banks of the Kentucky, in Henry 
County. They may be reached by steamboat 
from Louisville. 

Poplar Mountain Springs are upon tho 
Poplar Mountain top, in Clinton County, four 
miles from Albany. The scenery in this vicin- 
age is of remarkable beauty. Upon Indian 
Creek, not far from the springs, there is a fine 
waterfall, of 90 feet perpendicular descent. 

The "White Sulphur Springs are in 
Grayson County, four miles from Litchfield. 
They are verj' numerous within a small area. 

The Tar and Breckenridge White Sul- 
phur Springs are in Breckenridge County, 
four miles from Cloverport. They are readily 
accessible from the Ohio River. The Brecken- 
ridge coal is found in this vicinity. 

The Tar and Sulphur Springs are upon 
Green River, in Davies Countjr, near the " Old 
Vernon Settlements." There are other springs 
of reputation in this vicinity. 

The Esculapia Springs, Chalybeate, and 
White Sulphur, are in a beautiful valley of 
Lewis County. 

Tho Pox and the Phillips' Springs are 
in the abundant spring region of Fleming 
County. 

The Lettonian Springs (sulphur), are 
upon the Bank Lick Road, near the Ohio River, 
and about four miles from Covington. This is 
a pleasant excursion point from Cincinnati. 

The Parroquet Springs are near Shep- 
pardsvUle, in Bullitt County. 



KENTUCKY. 



221 



The Sink Holes of Kentucky. Of these 
curious cavities or depressions In the surface of 
the ground, known as sinks, remarkable exam- 
ples are found iu Kentucky. Sinking Creek in 
Breckenridge County suddely disappears, and is 
not seen again within a distance of half a dozen 
miles. Near Muntbrdsville, in Hart County, 
there is a strange spring connected with a mill- 
pond, the waters of which overflow the dam every 
twenty-four hours, rising 12 or 15 inches, and re- 
ceding to their ordinary level with the precision 
of the tides. Six miles east of the same town, 
there is a hole, in form like an inverted cone, 
which is 70 feet in diameter at the surface, and 
but 10 or 12 feet across, at a depth of 25 or 30 
feet. Stones cast into this pit, give no indication 
of touching the bottom. There is yet another 
extraordinary sink in this neighborhood, on the 
top of an elevation, called Frenchinan's Knob. 
It has been descended by means of a rope, 275 
feet, but without finding bottom. 

Natural Bridge. There is an extraordi- 
Bary natural Bridge in the romantic county of 
Christian. It makes a grand span of 70 feet, and 
is 30 feet high. 

Dismal Kock is a frowning precipice, IGO 
feet high, in Edmonson County. 

Cumberland Gap. This passage of the 
Cumberland River through the mountains, in 
Knox County, is an imposing scene. The 
waters make their way between huge clifFs, 
1,300 feet in height. 

Waterfalls. Besides the cascades of the 
Indian Creek, near Poplar Mountain, of which 
we have already made mention, there are nume- 
rous beautiful waterfalls among the hills of Ken- 
tucky. The Kentick Creek in Cumberland 
County, presents some fine pictures of this kind. 
The traveller must not overlook, either, if his 
time serves for the exploration, the Rock House 
in Cumberland ; the Indian Rock in Edmon- 
son ; Pilot Rock in Christian ; and the Flat and 
the Anvil Rocks in Union County. 

The Mounds and Fortifications, which 
are numerous in Kentucky, afibrd employment 
enough for the antiquarian tourist. In Allen 
County, 17 miles from Bowling Green, there is a 
wall of solid limestone, 200 yards in length, 40 
feet high ; at its base, 30 feet thick, and at its 
Bummit, 6 feet. It crosses a neck formed of a 
curve in Drake's Creek, and shuts in a penin- 
. aula of about 200 acres, elevated 100 feet above 
the river. Upon the crown of this eminence, an 
area of three acres is surrounded by a wall and 
ditch, making the place a fortree^s of immense 
strength. Other strange ancient works, older 
than tradition, may be found in Warren, Spen- 
cer, Boone, La Rue, Montgomery, Barren, and 
Bourbon Counties. 



The Big: Bone Licks of Boone County ex- 
hibit the great bones of tlie Mastodon, and other 
extinct animals. Curious fossil remains are 
found in Bourbon County. Impressions of the 
feet of men and of animals may be seen in a rock 
near Morganfield, in Union County 

The Mammotll Cave. Many and varied 
as are the natural beauties and wonders in Ken- 
tucky, the most strange and magnificent of them 
all remains yet to be seen in the weird halls and 
chambers of the famous Mammoth Cave. 

Boute. — Tourists from the Eastern cities will 
leave Louisville by the Louisville and Nashville 
railway, and stop at Cave City, nine miles from 
the Cave. From Cave City the distance is trav- 
ersed by a good carriage road. Steamers ply on 
the Green Eiver fi-om Louisville to within the 
distance of a mile only of the cave. 

The Mammoth Cave is in Edmonson County, 
south of the centre of the State. 



Cax'6 Sotel is in the near vicinity of the grand 
Plutonian halls, but 200 feet, indeed, from the 
gloomy portals. The journey through these stu- 
pendous vaults and passages is long. and toilsome, 
despite the marvels which everywhere beguile 
the way. As it takes days to see these wonder- 
ful scenes, so it would require many pages to 
describe them, which compels us to be content 
with the briefest catalogue of the chief points of 
interest. 

After exploring the ante-chambers and the 
Audubon Avenue, which is a mile in length, 50 
or 60 feet high, and as many wide, we return and 
pass through the vestibule for a second time, en- 
tering the main cave or Grand Gallery, a mighty 
tunnel of many miles extent. The Kentucky 
Cliffs passed, we descend some 20 feet to the 
Church. This is a grand apartment, 100 feet in 
diameter, with a roof formed of one solid, seam- 
less rock, suspended 63 feet overhead. Nature 
has supplied these solemn halls with a natural 
pulpit, and a recess where a mighty organ and a 
countless choir could be placed. Religious ser- 
vices have been performed in the dim, religious 
light of torches, under this magnificent roof. 
The Gothic Avenue is reached by a detour from 
the main cave, and a descent of some 30 feet. It 
is tw^o miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 15 feet 
high. This place was once called the Haunted 
Chamber. Louisa's Bower, "Vulcan's Furnace, 
and the new and old Register Rooms, are now 
passed in succession. The Gothic Chapel rivals 



222 



KENTUCKY.— -OHIO. 



all tlie marvels of the highest and nicest art, in 
tho strength, beauty, and proportions of its grand 
columns, and its exquisite ornamentation. The 
Devil's Arm Chair is a large stalagmite pillar, in 
the centre of which is a spacious seat, grand 
e:.ough for the gods. After passing numerous 
other stalactites and stalagmites, wo look, in 
euocession, at Napoleon's Breastwork, the Ele- 
phant's Head, and the Lover's Leap. This last 
scene is a large pointed rock, more than 90 feet 
above the floor, and projecting into a grand ro- 
tunda. 

Just below the Lover's Leap, a deloiir may be 
made to tho lower branch of the Gothic Avenue, 
at the entrance of which we may see an immense 
flat rock, called Gatewood's Dining Room ; and 
to the right, a beautiful basin of water, named 
the Cooling Tub. Beyond is Flint Pit. Still 
pursuing our delour, we pass, one after the other, 
Napoleon's Dome, the Cinder Banks, the Crys- 
tal Pool, the Salts Cave, and a wonderful place, 
still beyond, called Annetti's Dome, through a 
crevice of which a waterfall comes. 

Re-entering the main cave or the Grand 
Avenue, we arrive, soon, at tho Ball Room, 
where nature has provided every necessary fit- 
ting of gallery and orchestra. Willie's Spring 
has its pleasant story, which will delight the 
wondering visitor until he is called upon for as- 
tonishment at the s'ght of the great rock, known 
as the Giant's Coffin. 

Here begin the incrustations, ever varied in 
form and character, which are so much the de- 
light of all visitors. The Giant's Cofdn passed, 
we sweep round with the Great Bend. Opposite 
is the Sick Room. Hereabouts there is a row of 
cabins for consumptive patients. 

T/ie Slar Chamber is a splendid hall, with per- 
pendicular arches on each side, and a flat roof. 
The side rocks are of a light color, and are 
strongly relieved against the dark ceiling, which 
is covered with countless sparkling substances, 
resembling stars. 

The Cross Room has a ceiling of no feet span, 
and yet not a single piUar to uphold it. The 
Black Chambers contain ruins which remind tts 



of old baronial castle walls and towers. Through 
the Big Chimneys we ascend into an upper room, 
about the size of the main cave. Here are heard 
the plaintive whispers of a distant waterfall ; as 
we come nearer, the sound swells into a grand 
roar, and we are close to the cataract. To enter 
tho place called the Solitary Chambers, by the 
way of tho Humble Chute, we have to crawl 
upon our hands and knees for 15 or 18 feet be- 
neath a low arch. Here is the Fairy Grotto, the 
character of which admirably realizes the prom- 
ise of its name. The Chief City or Temple, is 
an immense vault, two acres in area, covered hy 
a solid rocky dome, 120 feet high. Other locali- 
ties, in the direct passage of the cave, as in some 
of tho many detours, are appropriately named 
the Steeps of Time, the Covered Pit, the Side 
Saddle, and the Bottomless Pit, the Labyrinth, 
the Dead Sea, the Bandit's Hall, and the River 
Styx, and the Rocky Mountains. 

No more serious accident, it is said, than an 
occasional stumble, has ever been known to oc- 
cur. Colds, instead of being contracted, are 
more often cured by the visit. Nowliere is the 
air in the slightest degree impure. So free is the 
cave from reptiles of every kind, that St. Pat- 
rick might be supposed to have exerted bis 
fabled annihilating power in its favor. Combus- 
tion is everywhere perfect. No decomposition 
is met. with. The Avaters of the springs and 
rivers of the cave are habituallj' fresh and pure. 
Tho temperatui-e is equable at all seasons at 59° 
Fahrenheit. 

Thus, no one need, through any apprehension, 
deny himself the novel delight of a ramble along 
the 226 avenues, under the 47 domes, by the 8 
cataracts, the 23 pits, and the "thousand and 
one" marvellous scenes and objects of this mag- 
nificent and most matchless cave. 

The Ricliardson or Diamond Cave (re- 
cently discovered) lies on the way from the rail- 
way station to the Mammoth Cave ; 1^ miles 
from the former, and 5 miles from the latter. 
It is said to be in its surprising attractions sec- 
ond only to its famous neighbor. 



OHIO. 



Ohio is one of the largest and most important of the groat "Western States, and the third in tho 
Republic in population and wealth. It extends over an area 200 miles in length, and 195 miles in 
breadth. On its northern limits are Michigan and Lake Erie ; Pennsylvania and "Virginia encom- 
pass it eastward. The waters of the Ohio separate it from Kentucky on the south, and westward 
is the State of Indiana. 

Tho central portions of Ohio are, for tho most part, level lands, with here and there, more espe- 



OHIO. 



223 



•ially towards the north, tracts of marsh. In the north-west there is an extensive stretch of very- 
fertile country, called the Black Swamp, much of which is yet covered with forest. Some prairies 
are seen in these middle and northern parts of the State. Huge boulders are found hereabouts, as 
•upon all the plains of the "West, but where they came from, or how, nobody knows, North of tho 
middle of the State there is a range of highlands which apportion the waters for the Ohio on the 
south, and for Lake Eric on the north, the former recipient getting the lion's share. A second 
ridge interrupts the Ohio slope near the middle of the State, and thence, all the rest of the way 
southward, the country is broken and hUly, terminating, often, upon the waters of the Ohio, in 
abrupt and lofty banks. 

The great bituminous coal veins of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Kentucky, extend into Ohio, 
supplying her well with this valuable product. Of iron, also, she possesses ample stores. 



Tlie Ohio River forms most of the eastern 
and all of tho southern boundary of the State, 
and is the recipient of the other principal 
streams of the region. See index for description 
of the Ohio in previous images. 

The Mtiskingum. Elver is formed of the 
Tuscarawas and the Walhonding, which rise in 
the upper part of the State and meet at Coshoc- 
ton. From this point the course of the Muskin- 
gum is nearly south east, 110 miles to the Ohio, 
at Marietta. Steamboats reach Dj'esden, 95 
miles up. 

The Scioto Hiver receives its main afduent 
at Columbus, and flows thence nearly south to 
the Ohio at Portsmouth. Its passage is about 
200 miles, ftirough a fertile valley region. The 
route of the Ohio and Erie Canal is near the 
Scioto, below, for a distance of 90 miles. 

The Miami Hiver flows 150 miles from 
the northwest central part of the State, past 
Troy, Dayton, and Hamilton, to the Ohio, 20 
miles below Cincinnati. It is a rapid and pictu- 
resque stream, traversing a very populous and 
productive valley tract. Its course is followed 
for 70 miles by the Miami Canal. 

In the upper part of Ohio are the Maumee, the 
Sandusky, the Huron, the Cuyahoga, and other 
smaller rivers, which find their way to Lake 
Erie. 

Lake Erie forms about 150 miles of the north 
and north-eastern boundary of Ohio. 

Though there are many scenes of quiet beauty 
on the rivers and in the valleys of Ohio, yet the 
State possesses no landscape of any considerable 
fame ; no celebrated and accepted shrines for 
Nature's devotees and pilgrims. There are, how- 
ever, sonie objects of curious antiquarian inter- 
est — remarkable earth-works, which have for 
many long years attracted attention and inquirj'. 
These mounds are scattered all over the country. 
There are some examples existing at Circleville. 
Another very remarkable one is found at Mari- 
etta ; this mound is 30 feet high, and is sur- 
rounded by an elliptical wall, 230 by 215 feet. In 



Warren County is Fort Ancient, which has about 
4 miles of embankment from 18 to 20 feet high. 
In Ross County are Clark's "Works, 2,S0O feet 
long and 1,800 broad, enclosing some smaller 
works and mounds. 

A subterranean Lake is supposed to exist at 
Bryan, in "Williams County, as water, when bored 
for, is found at a dep'th of 40 or 50 feet, at all 
limes and in great abundance ; and fish, too, 
sometimes coming up with it. 

Ohio owes her wonderful prosperity — her 
almost marvellous growth, in the period of half 
a century, from a wild forest tract to the proud 
rank she now holds among the greatest of the 
great American States — mainly to the rich capa- 
bilities other generous soil and climate. Nearly 
all her vast territory is available for agricultural 
uses. In the amount of her products of wool 
and of Indian corn, she has no peer in all the 
land — while she is exceeded by only one other 
State in her growth of wheat, barley, cheese, and 
live-stock ; by only two States in the value of her 
orchards, oats^potatoes, buckwheat, grasses, hay, 
maple sugar, and butter. Tobacco also is one 
of her staples, and among other articles which 
she yields abundantly, are hops, wine, hemp, 
silk, honey, beeswax, molasses, sweet potatoes, 
and a great variety of fruits. Her vines, which 
are known and esteemed everywhere, have yield- 
ed, in the vicinity of Cincinnati alone, half a 
million of gallons of wine in a year. 

In tho forests and woodlands are found the 
oak, the sugar and other majjles, the hickory, the 
sycamore, ijoplar, ash, and beech — the pawpaw, 
the buckeye (Ohio is called the Buckeye State), 
the dogwood, and many other trees. 

Railways. If Ohio were famous for nothing 
else, her railwaj's would immortalize her name. 
The very best way to catalogue these iron roads 
hero would be to say, that no matter between 
what two given points you may desire to pass, 
you will be sure to find a locomotive to drag you. 
In round terms, several thousand miles of rail- 
way are in operation in this State, with yet many 



224 



OHIO. 



other routes in progress. Ohio, and her neigh- 
bors, Indiana and Illinois, form the great trium- 
virate of locomotive Stales. Looking upon the 
map, no one would attempt the vain labor to 
unravel the intricate web which the restless spi- 
der Travel has woven all over this region. 
" Ironing done here''' seems to be the sign of the 
land, as it was over Punch's map of the world, 
during the railway mania in England. Ilappily, 
many as are the roads, they are not too many, 
but all contribute to the prosperity and glory of 
the country, near and afar off. 

Ohio, in the number and population of her 
cities and towns, exceeds all the States of the 
West. To Cincinnati, her chief commercial 
metropolis, her peers have conceded the royal 
title of " the Queen City." New Orleans alone, 
in all the vast valley of the Mississippi, sur- 
passes it. 

Cincinnati. — IIotels : — The Burnet House 
is very pleasantly and centrally located on 
Third and Vine streets ; tBo Spencer House, near 
the Landing ; Broadwaij Hotel, near the River 
and Landing ; Walnut Street //oMse, Walnut and 
Gano streets ; Oibsoii's House, Walnut street, 
near Fourth. 

Routes : — 'From. New York. By Hudson River 
or the Harlem Railway to Albany, and thence 
by the Contr.al Railroad to Bulfalo, or by the N. 
T. and Erie Railroad to Dunkirk or Buffalo, 459 
miles ; from Dunkirk, or Butfalo, above (N. Y .), 
via Erie (Penn.), by the Cleveland and Erie 
Railroad, along the shore of Lake Erie to Cleve- 
land (Ohio), 142 miles ; Cleveland and Columbus 
Railroad, 135 miles, to Columbus ; Little Miami 
Railroad, 120 miles, to Cincinnati. Total dis- 
tance from New York, 856 miles. 

From Philadelphia. Hy Pennsylvania Rail- 
road, 355 miles, to Pittsburg (Pa.), 187 miles to 
Crestline, 60 miles to Columbus, 120 miles to 
Cincinnati. Total, '722 miles. 

From Baltimore. Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
road, 397 miles, to Wheeling (Va.), Central Oliio, 
via Zanesville, to Columbus, 141 miles ; Little 
Miami Railroad, 120 miles, to Cincinnati. Total, 
658. 

From ;S'^ Louis. Ohio and Mississippi Rail- 
way. 

From New Orleaiis. Mississipin and Ohio 
River Steamers, or by Railwaj'. 

" The Queen City of the West," as Cincin- 
nati is called, is the largest capital of the Missis- 
sippi region, and, with its population of 250,000, 
it is the fifth in extent and importance in all the 
Union. Its central position on the Ohio River 
has made it a receiving and distributing depot 
for all the wide and rich coimtry tributary to 



those great waters. The city is delightfully situ- 
ated in a valley of three miles extent, enclosed 
by a well-defined cordon of hills, reaching, by 
gentle ascent, an elevation above the river of 
some 400 feet. These high points command im- 
posing views of the city and its surroundings, 
far and near. 

The chief portion of Cincinnati lies upon two 
plateaus or terraces, the first 50 feet above low- 
water mark, and the second lOS feet. The upper 
plain slopes gradually, for a mile, to the foot of 
Mount Auburn — a range of limestone hills, 
charmingly embellished with villas and vine- 
yards. The city occupies the river shore for 
more than three miles, and its area is rapidly 
extending in every direction. The central and 
commercial quarter is well and compactly built. 
The streets are mostly of good width, well paved 
and well lighted with gas. The principal thor- 
oughfares are Broadwa3', Main, Pearl, and Fourth 
streets. Main street, the great business highway, 
five and a half miles long, traverses the city from 
the Steamboat Landing — an open area of 10 acres, 
with 1,000 feet front — and is intersected at right 
angles by 14 leading streets, named First, Sec- 
ond, Third, Fourth, and so on. Pearl street, 
parallel with the river, is the great .iobbing mart. 
Fourth street is the " Fifth Avenue" of the town, 
a long, wide, elegant and fashionable promenade 
upon the crown of the First Terrace, following 
the course of the river, and overlooking its wa- 
ters and windings. Fifth street contains the mar- 
kets, and displays a scene of busy life through an 
extent of three or four miles. 

Public Buildings. The Cincinnati Observa- 
tory has a beautiful situation upon Mount Ad- 
ams, in the eastern part of the city. It com- 
mands an extensive view of the Ohio, and of the 
surrounding country. It can be distinctly seen 
by the traveller from the steamboat, in passing 
up or down the river. It occupies four acres of 
land, the gift of Mr. Nicholas Longworth. It 
was built by the voluntaiy contributions of the 
citizens, who gave §25 each towards the erection 
of the building and the purchase of appropriate 
instruments. Much, however, is due to the 
energy and perseverance of Professor Mitchel, 
to whose unceasing labors they are principally 
indebted for the resvilt. The corner-stone was 
laid on the 9th November, 1843, by the late John 
Quincy Adams, who called the edifioe a " light- 
house of the skies." The telescope is of unsur- 
passed finish, accuracy, and power, made by 
Mentz fc Mahlei-, of Munich, artists of the high- 
est reputation. Its cost was $10,000. 

The Masonic Hall stands on the north-east 
corner of Walnut and Third streets. It is an 
elegant structure, newly erected from designs by 
Hamilton and McLaughlin, 



OHIO. 



225 



The Merchants' Exchange, or Cincinnati Col- 
lege, a beautiful new building, is situated in 
Walnut street, between Fourth and Fifth streets. 
It is of the Grecian Doric order, three stories 
high, exclusive of an attic, and 140 feet frout, 100 
deep, and 60 in height. The Exchange and 
Reading-room is 59 feet by 45, and one of the 
finest in the United States. 

The Mercantile Library Association is in the 
Bame building as the Exchange, and on the same 
floor ; it had, in 1853, no less than 2,300 members, 
and 13,000 volumes, besides a very large supply 
of American and foreign newspapers, periodi- 
cals, &o. This liberal supply of means is con- 
tinually on the increase, and the Library promises 
to be one of the first in the land. The United 
States building for the accommodation of the 
Post Office, Custom House, and the U. S. Courts, 
is one of the most symmetrical edifices in the 
city, being a fine specimen of Corinthian archi- 
tecture. 

The Ohio Medical College is located in Sixth 
street, between Vine and Race ; it contains a 
large lecture-room, librarj', &c., the latter having 
several thousand well-selected standard works, 
purchased by the State. The cabinet belonging 
to the anatomical department is amply fur- 
nished. 

St. Peter's Cathedral is, perhaps, the finest 
building of its kind in the West ; it is situated on 
Plum street, corner of Eighth, and is devoted 
to the services of the Roman Catholic Church. 
The building is 200 feet long by 80 broad, and 60 
feet high. The roof is principally sujaported 
upon 18 freestone pillars, formed of a fluted 
shaft, with Corinthian tops, three and a half feet 
in diameter, and 35 feet in height. The ceiling 
is of stucco-work, of a rich and expensive char- 
acter. The roof is composed of iron plates, 
whose seams are coated with a composition of 
coal, tar, and sand, which renders it impervious 
to rain. The building cost $90,000, and the 
ground $24,000. At the west end of the church 
is an altar of the purest Carrara marble, made 
by Chiappri, of Genoa ; it is embellished with a 
centre-piece, encircled with rays, around which 
wreaths and flowers are beautifully carved. An 
immense organ occupies its opposite end, having 
2, 700 pipes and 44 stops. One of the pipes is 33 
feet long, and weighs 400 pounds. The cost was 
55,500. Several paintings occupy the walls, 
among which is a St. Peter, by Murillo, pre- 
sented to Bishop Fenwick by Cardinal Fesch, 
imcle to Napoleon. 

The Episcopal Church, corner of Seventh and 
Plum streets, and the First Presbyterian, cor- 
ner of Main and Fourth, are notable edifices. 
Besides these, there are, all told, more than 100 

10* 



churches of every shade of faith and doctrine in 
Cincinnati. 

The City Hall is in Plum street, between 
Eighth and Ninth. It is a comparatively new 
structure. 

Tlieatres. Pike's Opera House is a superb 
edifice, fronting on Fourth street, between Wal- 
nut and Vine, and running back to Baker. The 
National, Sycamore between Third and Fourth 
streets, is the oldest establishment in the city 
Wood's Theatre, corner of Vine and Sixth 
streets, is a newer place of re»iort. There is also 
a Museum called the "Western." 

The educational institutions of the city are 
abundant. The public schools, under the elected 
Board of Trustees, embrace seventeen District, 
four Intermediate, and two High Schools ; while 
private establishments of excellent grade are 
numerous. The St. Xavier (Catholic) College, 
Lake Theological Seminary, Wesleyan Female 
College, and three Medical Colleges, are the 
chief educational establishments under cor- 
porate charge. 

With the rapid growth of the city, its list of lite- 
rary attractions is ever increasing in a ratio with 
the advance in all other resources and attractions. 

The chief Benevolent Institutions are the 
Lunatic Asylum, the Commercial Hospital, fovir 
Orphan Asylums, the Widows' Home, Asylum 
for Indigent Females, the House of Refuge, and 
the Hotels for Invalids. 

The Suspension Bridge is a magnificent 
structure, now in process of erection across the 
Ohio River. A correspondent of the New Tork 
Evening Post, writing of this great work (De- 
cember 7th, 1856), says — 

"The Ohio River is really to be bridged at 
Cincinnati ; not as it was last winter, by ice, 
and in defiance of the constitution of the United 
States — but by a splendid structure, that will 
stand against all weathers and freshets. 

"John A. Roebling, Esq., architect of the 
Niagara Suspension Bridge, is at work, ""ham- 
nier and tongs,' building the towers of a struc- 
ture on the same general plan, though not 
adapted for the passage of a railroad, as it might 
be with greater cost. This project has been 
long talked of, and the charter, I believe, was 
granted some years ago by the legislatures of 
Kentucky and Ohio. It was not till a quite recent 
date that subscriptions of stock could be secured 
to make a beginning. Some enterprising men 
have procured $350,000, and will probably issue 
bonds for as much more, which will complete 
the bridge. The progress of the work is very 
interesting. The towers, the foundations of 
which are laid 86 by 52 feet at the base, will be 
233 feet high, and 1,006 feet apart. The cables 



226 



OHIO. 



^^dll be anchored 300 feet back on eaoli side of parted hero is upon a knoll, some 200 yards' 
the river, pass over the tops of the towers, and both from -the water and from the house, its 

position marked by a single white shaft. lathe 
rear, upon the hill-top, there is a romantic Uttle 
lake. 

Running along the base of the hills, on the 
west of the city, is Mill Creek, three or four 
miles up which is the Mill Creek Rouse, a 
famous resort of jolly excursionists, bent upon 
" having a time." 

"Over the Rhine."— The Miami Canal 
divides Cincinnati north and south, the upper 
portion being known to the initiated as "Over 
the Rhine." It is the German quarter, and has 
a German theatre, with lager-bier, pipes and to- 
bacco, Schiller and Goethe, daily, but Sundays 
especially. 

The Race Course, lies two miles below Cov- 
ington across the Ohio. 

The Buckeye House, opposite the Race Course, 
on the upper side of the river, is four miles be- 
low the low. This popular excursion terminus 
is kept by " Old Joe Harrison," so called, a rosy- 
hazy, Indian summery Boniface. His guests 
come to him on fast horses, and tai-ry long be- 
neath his ancient and hospitable roof. This 
neighborhood is a fine pigeon or trap-shooting 
ground. In the shallows and surfy ripples of 
tbe Ohio liereabouts, salmon are taken with rod 
and line heavily leaded. 



thus be made to sustain the weight of the 
bridge. The entire span will therefore be 1,606 
feet — a little short of one third of a mile. The 
elevation of the floor at the middle, above low- 
water mark, will be 122 feet. The great flood 
of 1832 — the highest on record — rose 62 feet above 
low water ; and, making allowance even for 
this, there will remain 60 feet, which is consid- 
erably more than will be required for the highest 
steamboat pipes on the river. It will be a novel 
spectacle to look down on those splendid floating 
palaces passing under the magnificent span. 

'■ The highest grade of ascent at either end 
will be 7 feet in 100, and the strength of the 
bridge will bo equal to every thing but a railroad 
train. The foundations were began on the 1st 
of September, and the structure will bo com- 
pleted in three years from that time." 

The Residence of Mr. Longworth, at 
the foot of Mount Adams, north-east end of the 
city, is a charming seat, with its vineyards, 
gardens, and conservatories, and its art-treas- 
ures. Mr. Longworth's name is familiar abroad, 
in connection with the culture of tlie grape, for 
which Cincinnati is so distinguished ; for every- 
body knows and esteems the "sparkling Ca- 
tawba" of tbis neighborhood. 

In early times (that is, 25 j'cars ago) Deer 
Creek, a green-margined, pebbly stream, wound 
gayly along the base of Mount Adams; now it 
is an under-ground sewer, carrying off the blood 
and oflal of the extensive pork-killing and pack- 
ing establisbmcnts, for which Cincinnati is so 
greatly renowned. 

Vicinag-e. — For Covington and Newport, 
cities of Kentucky across the Ohio, from Cincin- 
nati, see chapter on Kentucky ; also, for the 
Lata Ilia Sprinyii, near by. 

A short distance from the city, in its north 
part, are two beautiful villages — Mt. Auburn and 
Walnut Hills — occupied chiefly as country seats, 
by persons whose business is in the cit}'. The 
latter place is the seat of Lane Seminary. 

Spring Grove Cemetery is situated in the val- 
ley of Mill Creek, about four miles north-west 
of the city. It has a beautiful location, and con- 
tains about 168 acres. The road thence is a 
famous equestrian route. 

North Bend, the Home and Tomb of 
General Harrison, is 16 miles below the 
city, in full view from the river. The venerable 
homestead of the regretted chieftain and Pre- 
sident (now occupied by his eon-inlaw. Col. Wm. 
H. Taylor), is a plain wooden structure, some 
portions of weather-boarded logs, all agreeably 
embowered in shading trees. It lies some 250 
yards back of the river. The grave of the de- 



Cleveland.— Hotels :— 

The Weddell House, Bank and Superior streets ; 
the Angler House, Bank and St. Clair streets. 

Routes: — From New York, by the New York 
and Erie Railwaj-, to Dunkirk, on Lake Erie, 
459 miles. The lake steamers, or the Lake 
Shore route R. R. (via Erie.), 142 miles. Total 
New York to Cleveland, 596 miles. Or, from 
New York, by Hudson River and Central roads 
to Albany and Buflalo, thence as above, 627 
miles. 

From Philadelphia, Penn. R. R., 355 miles to 
Pittsburg, etc. From Baltimore, via Harris- 
burg, thence to Pittsburg, Pa., or by the Balti- 
more and Ohio route to Wheeling, etc. 

From Cincinnati, see Cincinnati from Cleve- 
land ; from Chicago, see Chicago, from Cleve- 
land. 

Cleveland, after Cincinnati, is the chief city of 
Ohio, with a population in ISGO of some 87,000. 
The town proper lies on the high and command- 
ing blufl'of the Lake, and is laid out with broad, 
well-paved streets, occasionally varied with open 
squares, the general appearance being very pleas- 
ing. The social and municipal institutions of 
the city are in a highly creditable condition. 
The churches and echools especially are nua 



OHIO. 



227 



mei'ous and excellent. Visitors must not fail 
to see tine superb Perry Monument, the Medical 
College, the Marine Hospital, the new Water 
Works, on the highest ground west of the river, 
and the great Railroad Depot, at which almost 
as many passengers daily ai-rive and depart as at 
any other point in the land. 

Cleveland was the first settlement within the 
limits of Cayuga County, in that part of Ohio 
which has long been known as the Western Re- 
serve. It was laid out in October, 1796, and 
named in honor of General Moses Cleveland, a 
native of Connecticut. Originally the town was 
confined to the eastern shore of the Cuyahoga, 
but subsequently Brooklyn or Ohio City sprung 
up on the opposite side, and both parts are now 
■united under one corporation distinguishable 
only by the bridge across the river. 

The trade of the city amounted in the year 
1859 to §363,438,051. Eighty steam and sail ves- 
sels were built and equipped at the ship-yards 
in 1859-'60. 

Columbus. — Hotels : — Neil House. 

To reach Columbus from New York, Phila- 
delphia, and intermediate places, see Cincinnati 
for route thence to that city, as far as Columbus. 
From Cleveland (Lake Erie), south-west, 135 
miles, by the Cleveland, Columbus, and Cin- 
cinnati road ; from Cincinnati, by the same route, 
north-east, 120 miles ; from Wheeling, Va., ter- 
minus of Baltimore and Ohio road, 141 miles 
•west, by the Ohio Central ; from Pittsburg, on 
the Pennsylvania road, by the Steubenville and 
Indiana route, via Steubenville and Zanesville, 
Ohio. 

Columbus is near the centre of the State, upon 
the banks of the Soiota River, 90 miles front its 
debouchure on the Ohio. It was founded in the 
wilderness in 1S12, and in 1860 had a population 
of some 19,000. It is the centre of a rich coun- 
trj', which is daily adding to its extent and opu- 
lence. Some of the principal streets are 100 and 
120 feet in width, and elegantly built. Many of 
the public edifices are of vei*y striking character. 
The Capitol^ which is constructed of a marble, 
like limestone, has a fagade of more than 300 
feet, and an elevation, to the top of the rotunda, 
of 157 feet. Then they are, besides, the Ohio 
Lunatic Asylum, the Institution for the Blind, 
the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, and the 
State Penitentiary, all fine buildings. The Star- 
ling Medical College, endowed by the late Lyne 
Starling, was established here some few years 
ago. It occupies a Gothic edifice of brick, "cap- 
ped with a whitish limestone. 

At Eastwood, close by, the traveller may see 
the gardens of the Columbus Horticultural So- 



ciety, and the grounds of the Franklin County 
Agricultural Society. 

Dayton. — Hotels : — Phillips House. 

Dayton is at the meeting of various railway 
lines ; from Cincinnati, 60 miles, by the Hamil- 
ton, Cincinnati, and Dayton road ; from Xenia, 
16 miles; from Columbus, 55 miles; from Zanes- 
ville, 114 miles, and from Wheeling (Va.), 196 
miles, on the direct route from Baltimore to St. 
Louis. By the same route (from the West), 108 
miles from Indianapolis, 181 from Terre Haute, 
and 368 from St. Louis. 

The Mad River enters the Great Miami at 
Dayton, and it is also upon the line of the Miami 
Canal. This is one of the most populous and 
enterprising cities in Ohio. The situation is 
pleasant, and the sti-eets, which are of remark- 
able width, are built with more than wonted 
elegance and richness. Many of the public edi- 
fices and private mansions are constructed of 
excellent limestone and marble, which abound 
in the vicinage. In 1860, the population of Day- 
ton amounted to 20,482. 

Zanesville. — Hotels -.—Stacy House ; Kane 
House. 

Zanesville is upon the route from Baltimore to 
Columbus, Cincinnati, Indianapolis, and St. 
Louis (see those cities for routes thither) ; from 
Wheeling, Va., 82 miles by Central Ohio hne ; 
from Columbus, by same road, 59 miles ; from 
Cincinnati (Cincinnati, Wilmington, and Zanes- 
ville road), 167 miles. 

The position of Zanesville upon the Muskin- 
gum River, and in the midst of a rich and pop- 
ulous valley region, promises an indefinite con- 
tinuation of its past success, which has been 
upon the scale common to the cities of the West. 
Settlements were first made here in 1799, and 
here was the seat of the State Government 
during the two years immediately preceding the 
selection of Columbus as the capital in 1812. 

Chilicothe.— Hotels :— 

Chilicothe is on the Sciota River and the 
Ohio and Erie Canal, 45 miles below Columbus, 
and the same distance from the Ohio at Ports- 
mouth. It is upon the Cincinnati and Marietta 
Railway, extending from Parkersburg, on the 
Ohio, a terminus of the Baltimore and Ohio 
road, to Cincinnati. From Cincinnati, 96 miles. 

The fine hill-slopes which enclose the valley 
site of Chilicothe contribute greatly to the un- 
usually attractive aspect of the landscape here. 
To describe the topography of this pleasant city 
■would be but to repeat what wo have already 



228 



OHIO. — INDIANA. 



Baid of many other places on the fruitful plains 
of Ohio and the neighboring States — to talk only 
of spacious and regular streets, substantial and 
elegant huildings, all telling eloquent tales of 
prosperity and progress. 

This city v/as founded in 1796, and -was the 
capital of the State between the years 1800 and 

isio. 

Spring-field.— Hotels :— Willis House. 

Springfield is ia the midst of railways, 84 
miles above Cincinnati, on the direct route 
thence from Sandusky City on Lake Erie, and 
129 miles below Sandusky ; from Columbus, 45 
miles. 

The Mad River and the Lagonda Creek meet 
at Springfield. These rapid waters atford abun- 
dance of fine mill-sites, which are all well era- 
ployed bj' the manufactories of the town. This 
city is regarded as one of the most beautiful in 
the State, both in its position and in its con- 
struction. It is interesting as the birth-place of 
the famous Indian warrior Tecumseh. 

Steubenville.— Hotels :— United States. 

Steubenville is upon the Ohio River, on the 
eastern boundary of the State, and on the great 
railway route from Philadelphia, via Pittsburg, 
and from Baltimore, via Wheeling, Va., to Cin- 
cinnati, and all points in the West. 

The history of Steubenville dates from 179S. 
Railroad communication with the great world 
has of late years given to it, no less than to its 
neighbors, a new and strong impetus forward. 
The i^osition of the town is upon high terrace 
land, overlooking a smiling and happy country 
ia all dii'ections. 



Sandusky City.— Hotels -.— West House-^ 

Townsend House. 

Sandusky City is upon Lake Erie, on the line 
of the Lake Shore Railways, from Dunkirk and 
ButTalo (N. Y.) to Toledo, Chicago, Cincinnati, 
etc. From Cleveland, 61 miles ; from Toledo, 
52 miles ; from Cincinnati, 213 miles ; from 
Dunkirk (N. Y. and Erie road), 203 miles ; from 
New York, 662 miles. 

The first church in Sandusky was built aslato 
as 1830, and now the city is one of the most pop- 
ulous and opulent in the State. Its eligible po- 
sition on the busy waters of Lake Erie and its 
beautiful harbor ensure it continued growth and 
prosperity. 

Portsmouth.— Hotels :— 

Portsmouth is upon the Ohio, in the south-east 
part of the State. A railway extends northward 
to the line of the road from Cincinnati to Mari- 
etta and Wheeling (Va.) See Chilicothe. The 
river steamers from all points call here. 

Toledo. — Hotels : — American Hotel. 

Toledo is upon the Maumee River, four miles 
from its entrance into Lake Michigan, and upon 
the great railway route from the eastern States 
westward. It is 52 miles west of Sandusky 
City, 113 miles west of Cleveland; 255 miles 
from Dunkirk (Erie road) ; 714 miles from New 
York, and 243 miles east of Chicago, by the 
Michigan Southern route. 

Toledo is the terminus of the Wabash and 
Erie Canal, the largest in the United States. Its 
history as a city dates only from 1836, but it is 
already one of the chief commercial stations of 
the commerce of the Great Lakes. 



INDIANA. 



Indiana extends about 275 miles from North to South, and 135 from East to West; on the 
North is the Lake and State of Michigan ; on the East, Ohio ; on the South, Kentucky (across the 
Ohio River) ; and on the West, Illinois (across the Wabash). 

Topographically, this State bears a great resemblance to its neighbor, Ohio. In the South, 
bordering on the Ohio, is the same hilly surface ; and above, the same, undulating or level land, 
of a more marked prairie character sometimes, and perhaps more of barrens and marshes north- 
ward. In this direction a great pine tract abuts on Lake Michigan in sand-hiUs of 200 feet eleva- 
tion. The river lands are almost always rich and fertile. 

As in surface, so in soil and climate, Indiana is vei^ like Ohio. In the production of Indian 
corn she is the fourth State in the Union, Ohio being the first. The other products are much the 
same as those we have credited to her great sister State. (See Ohio.) 

Coal, iron, copper, marble, freestone, lime, and gypsum are found here. 



INDIAITA. 



229 



The Ohio forms tlie entire sonthern boundary 
of Indiana, and receives the waters of nearly all 
the other rivers of the State. 

The "Wabash, after tlie Ohio, the largest 
river of the region, tlows 500 miles, crossing the 
State and separating it in the lower half from 
Illinois. It is the largest tributary— from the 
liorth— of the Ohio, which it enters 140 miles 
from the Mississippi. In its ijassage, it passes 
Huntington, Lafayette, Attica, Terre Haute, 
Covington and other towns. It is navigable at 
high water for nearly 400 miles. Tiie Wabash 
and Erie Canal follows its course from Hunting- 
ton to Terre Haute, ISO miles. 

The White River, the principal tributary of the 
Wabash, is formed by the two branches called 
the East and West Forlr, which unite near Pe- 
tersburg. It enters the Wabash after a course of 
some 40 miles — nearly opposite Mount Carmel, 
Illinois. Upon the West Fork, the longest branch 
of the White River flows south-west nearly 
SCO miles through the centre of the State, passing, 
among other places, Muncie, Anderson, Indian- 
apolis, Martinsville and Bloomfleld. On the 
East Fork are New Castle, Shelbyville, Colum- 
bus and Rockford. This Fork is 200 miles in 
length. It is sometimes called Blue River, until 
it reaches Sugar Creek near Edinburg. 

The Maumee, which is formed in Indiana 
by the St. Josephs and the St. Marys rivers, 
passes into Ohio, where we have already met it. 

Besides these rivers, there are many other 
lesser waters. Lake Michigan washes the north- 
ern border of the State for 40 miles. In this re- 
gion there are also a number of other small lakes 
and ponds. 

The most interesting natural curiosities here, 
(the peculiar landscape features of the region, 
in prairie reaches and richly wooded river banks 
excepted,) are the numerous and remarkable 
caves. 

The Wyandotte Cave in Crawford Coun- 
ty, H miles from Corydon, is a wonderful place, 
thought by many to equ.il in its marvels the 
famous Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. It has 
been explored for a number of miles, and has 
been found rich in magnificent chambers and 
galleries, in stalactites and other calcareous con- 
cretions. 

Epsom Salts Cave is another notable place. 
It is on the side of a hill, 400 feet in height. 
Among its wonders is a white column 30 feet 
high and 15 feet in diameter. It is regularly and 
beautifully fluted, and is surrounded by other 
formations of the same character. Epsom salts, 
nitre, gypsum and alluminous earth are found 
in the soil of the floor here. Another curious 
object is the picture of an Indian rudely painted 
on the rock. 



Ancient Mounds and earth-works are scat- 
tered over this State, as through Ohio. 

Railways. — In our peep at Ohio, we have 
alluded to the wonderful reticulation of railway 
tracks, which so marks this State and its neigh- 
bors both East and West. These iron roads 
link all parts of Indiana to each other, and unite 
it thoroughly with all the Union from the At- 
lantic to the Mississippi. The railways here, as 
in Ohio, on the one side, and Illinois on the 
other, are links of the great highways across the 
Republic westward. Half a dozen trains often 
start together from the same depot in Indiana- 
polis, the Capital, radiating to all points of the 
compass. 

Indiana has at present but few large cities, the 
most populous not numbering, perhaps, more 
than 20,000. 

Indianapolis. Hotels : — The Bates House, 

and the American. 

Indianapolis, the capital of Indiana, is in 
the centre of the State, and is the radiating point 
of railways in every direction. To reach the 
city direct from New York, see route thence to 
Cleveland on Lake Erie ; from Cleveland tako 
the Cincinnati and Columbus road to Crestline, 
and the Bellefontaine and Indiana route thence 
to Indianapolis. Distance from Cleveland, 281 
miles ; from New York, 840 miles. 

From Philadelphia, see route thence to Cin- 
cinnati as far as Columbus, Ohio — from Colum- 
bus, proceed by the Columbus and Xenia, the 
Dayton and Western, and the Central Indiana 
roads. 

From Baltimore, by the Baltimore and Ohio 
Railway to Wheeling, the Ohio Central to Co- 
lumbus, and thence as in preceding route from 
Philadelphia. 

From Cincinnati, by the Cincinnati and In- 
dianapolis Railway, direct. 

From Louisville, Ky., by the Jeffersonville 
road, 108 miles. 

From St. Louis, by the Ohio and Mississippi 
and the Jetiersonville roads. 

Indianapolis may be readily reached, also, by 
railway from Chicago, and nearly every other 
city of the West. 

The locale of Indianapolis was selected for the 
State Capital in 1820, at which time the whole 
region was a dehse forest. Five years later, the 
public offices were removed hither from Cory- 
don, and now, broad and beautiful and populous 
streets, lined with costly and elegant edifices 
and dwellings, are every year spreading farther 
and farther over the great plain. 

The Railway Station here is an edifice of mag- 
nificent proportions, with a frontage of 350 feet, 



230 



INDIANA. 



and trains are momently leaving it for every 
point of tho compass. Some of the very many 
Churches are imposing structures. Tlie iltate 
House is a fine building, ISO feet in length, orna- 
mented on each side witli a grand Doric portico, 
and surrounded by a noble dome. The Court 
House, the Masonic Hall, and the Bates Hotel will 
attract the particular notice of the visitor here. 

Indianapolis is the seat of the Indiana Medical 
College, founded in 1S49 ; here, too, is the State 
Lunatic Asylum. 

New Altoany.— Hotels :— The De Paw 

House. 

INew Albany, one of the chief cities of the 
State, is upon tho Ohio River, three miles below 
Louisville, and two miles below the Falls. From 
Cincinnati, 136 miles. Bee Cincinnati and Louis- 
ville for routes to those points. The New Al- 
bany and Salem Railway comes to Albany, 288 
miles from Michigan City, on Lake Michigan, 
where it connects with the routes to Chicago 
and the north-west, and with the Michigan Rail- 
waj's for Detroit, Niagara, and the Canadas,and 
with the hake-shore lines to New York via Dun- 
kirk and Buffalo. The Jefiersonville Railway 
from Indianapolis, the capital, 108 miles above, 
terminates at JeffersonviUe, just above New Al- 
bany, and opposite Louisville. The lines inter- 
sect and communicate with others, for all the 
towns of tho Western States. Steamboats ar- 
rive and depart continuallj' for aU landings on 
the Ohio and the Mississippi Rivers and their 
tributaries. New Albany is one of the two 
lai'gest commercial depots of Indiana. In 1860 
its population numbered some 13,000, and it has 
since very greatly increased. The aspect of this 
city is very like that of most towns on the level 
prairie lands of the West, broad, regular, well- 
built, and agreeably shaded streets, with a gen- 
eral air of life and prosperity. 

Madison. — ^Hotels : — Madison HoteL 

Madison (population 13,000 in 1860), is upon 
the Ohio, 90 miles below Cincinnati ; 40 miles 
above Louisville ; and 86 miles south-east of In- 
dianapolis. See Cincinnati and LouisviUe for 
routes thither. From Cincinnati take the steam- 
ei's on the Ohio River, or the Mississippi and 
Ohio route for St. Louis to Vernon, and the Jef- 
fersonviUe road from Indianapolis. 

Madison is in a pleasant valley, of three miles' 
extent, shut in on the north by bold hills, 400 
feet in height. It was first settled in 1808. 

Fort Wayne.— Hotels :— 



Fort "Wayne, in the north-east part of the 

State, is a great railway centre, on the grand 
route from New York via Cleveland and Toledo 
on Lake Erie, and from Canada via Detroit, to 
Springfield (Illinois), and St. Louis. It is the 
western terminus of the Ohio and Indiana Road, 
which connects at Crestline with the Ohio and 
Pennsylvania, for Philadeli^hia. The St. Jo- 
sephs and St. Marj's Rivers form the Maumee 
at this point, and the Wabash and Erie Canal 
comes in 122 mUes from La Fayette, and 112 
miles from Indianapolis. Fort Wayne was the 
ancient site of the Twight-wee village of tho 
Miami Indians. The fort which gives name to 
the town, was erected hero in 1794, by the com- 
mand of General Wayne. It continued to be a 
military post until 1819. The Miamis were not 
removed westward until 1841. 

Terra Eaute. — Hotels: — Terre Haute 
House. 

Terre Hauto is on the western boundary of 
the State, upon thoAVabash River ; the Wabash 
and Erie Canal, and the great line of railwaj'a 
crossing Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois ; from 
Wheeling, Va., through Zanesville, Columbus, 
Xenia, and Dayton, Ohio, Indianapolis, Indiana, 
and extending westward to St. Louis ; commu- 
nicating with Cincinnati, Louisville, Chicago, 
Cleveland, and all other points. 

The town is most pleasantly situated upon a 
bank 60 feet above the Wabash. Fort Harrison 
Prairie, which sweeps away to the eastward, is 
famous for its charming landscape. 

La Fayette. — Hotels : — Bramble House. 

La Fayette is upon the Wabash River, and 
the Wabash and Erie Canal, and at the intersec- 
tion of the New Albany and Salem Road from 
Michigan City on Lake Michigan, to New Al- 
bany on the Ohio ; the La Fayette and Indiana- 
polis Road from Cincinnati, via Indianapolis 
and the Toledo, Wabash, and Western road 
from Toledo on Lake Erie ; from Toledo (rail- 
way always) 203 miles ; from Indianapolis, 64 
miles ; from New Albany (Ohio river), 197 
miles ; from Michigan City (Lake Michigan), 91 
miles. 

Evansville. — Hotels : — Pavilion Hotel. 

Evansville is upon a high bank of the Ohio, 
near the south-west extremity of the State, 200 
miles from the Mississippi, and the same dis- 
tance below Louisville in Kentucky. A railway 
extends north to Vincennes on the Ohio and 
Mississippi route (between Cincinnati and St. 



INDIANA . — ILLINOIS. 



231 



Louis) to Vincennes, 51 miles, and to Terre 
Haute 109 miles (from Kvaiisville). 

Richmoncl is situated on a fork of White- 
water Kiver, and four miles from the Ohio State 
Hue, 69 miles from Indianapolis, the capital, 
and 64 north-west of Cincinnati. It is a grow- 
ing town, and has several flourishing manufac- 
tories of cotton, wool, iron, paper, and flour. 
The river furnishes abundant water-power, 
which is very generally taken advantage of by 
the inhabitants, for it has become the chief manu- 



facturing town in the State. Richmond has ten 
or twelve churches, a public library, a Branch, 
of the State Bank of Indiana, two fire companies, 
and a large number of retail stores. It is the 
centre of a rich and populous agricultural dis- 
trict, with which it does an active trade. The 
population is estimated at about 6,000. The 
Central Railway connects here, and there is a 
Railway to Newcastle, commencing at Rich- 
mond. 



ILLIE'OIS. 

Illinois extends northward 380 miles, and westward (at the estremest point) 200 miles. "Wis- 
consin lies on the north. Lake Michigan and Indiana on the east, Kentucky on the south (the Ohio 
between), and Missouri and Iowa on the west, the Mississippi intervening. 

The general surface of the country here, as in Indiana and Ohio, is that of elevated table lands 
inclined southward, though it is more level than the neighboring States. In the lower portions 
there is a small stretch of hilly land, and some broken tracts in the north-west ; and upon the 
Illinois River there are lofty bluffs, and yet higher and bolder points on the Mississippi. 



Th.e Prairies. The great landscape feature 
of Illinois is the prairie country, this unique 
phase of Nature being seen here in its most 
marked and happiest humor. No matter what 
may be its character, every work of art or na- 
ture, earnestly and magnificently done, affects 
and interests the human mind and heart. The 
want of variety and caprice which are ordinarilj' 
essential to landscape attraction, are more than 
compensated in the prairie scenery, as in that of 
the boundless ocean, by the impressive qualities 
of immensity and power. Far as the most 
searching eye can reach, the great unvarying 
plain rolls on ; its sublime grandeur softened, 
but not weakened by the occasional groups of 
trees in its midst, or by the forests on its verge, 
or by the countless flowers everywhere upon its 
surface ; any more than is the sea, by the distant 
sail here and there, by the far-off surrounding 
hills, or by the- glittering sparkles of its crested 
waves. 

The G-rand Prairie, here, is the most strik- 
ing example in the country of this aspect of Na- 
ture. Its gently undulating plains, profusely 
decked with flowers of every hue, and skirted 
on all sides by woodland copse, rolls on through 
many long miles from Jackson County, north- 
east, to Iroquois County, with a width varying 
from one to a dozen or more miles. The uniform 
level of the prairie region is supposed to result 
from the deposits of waters by which the land 



was ages ago covered. The soil is entirely free 
•from stones, and is extremely fertile. The most 
notable characteristic of the prairies, and their 
destitution of vegetation, excepting in the multi- 
tude of rank grasses and flowers, will gradually 
disappear, since nothing prevents the growth of 
trees but the continual fires which sweep over 
the plains. These prevented, a fine growth of 
timber soon springs up ; and as the woodlands 
shall be thus assisted in encroaching upon, and 
occupying the plains, human settlements and 
habitations wiU. follow, until the prairie tracts 
shall be overrun with cities and towns. 

The Ag'ricultural Capabilities of Illi- 
nois are not surpassed anywhere in the Union. 
The soil on her river bottoms is often 25 or 30 
feet deep, and the upper prairie districts are 
hardly less productive. The richest tracts in 
the State are the great American Bottom, lying 
along the Mississippi, between the mouths of the 
Missouri and the Kaskaskia Rivers, a stretch of 
80 miles, the country on the Rock River and its 
branches, and that around the Sangamon and 
other waters. Forty bushels of wheat, or 100 
bushels of Indian corn to the acre, is a common 
product here. In the growth of Indian corn, 
Illinois ranks as the third State in the Union ; 
and her population and the amount of land em- 
ployed considered, she is the first. In respect 
to other agricultural staples and products, what 
we have said of the adjoining States of Ohio and 



232 



ILLINOIS. 



Indiana, may be repeated of Illinois ; so of the 
forest trues of tlio country. 

In Mineral Resources the State is well 
provided. She shares with the adjoining States 
of Iowa and Wisconsin, extensive supplies of 
lead. The trade in this mineral is the chief 
support of the prosperous town of Galena, in the 
north-west part of Illinois. More than thirteen 
millions of pounds of lead have been smelted 
licre in one year. Bituminous coal exists every- 
where, and may he pirocured in many places 
without excavation. The Blufi's, near the Great 
American Bottom, contain imfiiense beds. In 
the south part of the State iron is said to be 
abundant ; and in the north, copper, zinc, lime, 
fine marbles, freestone, gj'psum, and quartz 
crystals. Some silver, too, has been said to ex- 
ist in St. Clair County. 

Medicinal Springs, stilphur and chaly- 
beate, are found in various parts of the State. 
In Jefferson County there is a spring very much 
resorted to, and in the southern part of the State 
are some waters, which taste strongly of Epsom 
salts. 

Excepting the speciality of the prairie, the 
most interesting landscape scenery of this State 
is that of the bold, acolivitous river shores of the 
Mississippi, the Ohio, and the Illinois, more par- 
ticularly. 

The Mississippi forms the entire west- 
ern boundary, and many of the most remark- 
able pictures for which its upper waters are 
famous, occur in this legion, the tall, eccentri- 
cally shaped blufls rising at difl'erent points from 
100 to 500 feet. The Fountain Bluff of the Mis- 
sissippi, is in Jackson County ; it is odd in form, 
is 6 miles in circuit, and 300 feet in height ; the 
summit is full of sink holes. See "Mississippi 
jRu'cr," elsewhere. 

The Illinois, the largest river, here, flows 
through the centre of the State, south-westerly 
into the Mississippi, 20 miles above Alton. Ex- 
clusive of its branclies, the Des Plaines and the 
Kankakee, its length is about 320 miles. Its 
navigable waters extend at some seasons 206 
miles, to Ottawa, at the mouth of the Fox River. 
Peoria is upon its banks, 200 miles up. Half a 
hundred steamboats ply upon this river. 

The picturesque heights of the Illinois, called 
the Starved Rock, and the Lover's Leap, are a 
few miles only below Ottawa. Starved Eock, 
8 miles down the river, is a grand perpendicular 
hmestone clift", 150 feet in height. It was named 
in memory of the fate of a party of Illinois In- 
dians, who died on the rock from thirst, when 
besieged by the Pottawatomies. Lover's Leap 
is a precipitous ledge just above Starved Rock, 
and directly across the river is Buffalo Rock, a 
height of 100 feet. This eminence, though very 



acolivitous on the water side, slopes easily inland. 
The Indians were wont to drive the butialoes in 
frightened herds to and over its fearful brink. 
Lake Peoria is an expansion of the Illinois, near 
the middle of the State. Above Vermilion River 
there are some rapids, which boats pass only in 
periods of high water. 

The Ohio bounds the State on its southern 
extremity. It is in this part of Illinois (Ilardin 
County) that the famous Cave in the Rock of 
the Ohio shore occurs. See Ohio River. 

The Wabash, on the Eastern boundary, di- 
vides Illinois in the lower portion from Indiana. 
See Indiana. 

IBock River flows 330 miles from the neigh- 
borhood of Lake Winnebago, in Wisconsin, to 
the Mississippi, a little below the town of Rock 
Island. It enters Illinois at Beloit, and after- 
wards passes Rockford and Dixon. The course 
of Rock River is through a rich valley or plain, 
remarkable for its pictorial interest. The navi- 
gation of its waters is much obstructed by rap- 
ids ; for it is, unlike the sluggish Illinois, a bold, 
swift stream, with a will and way of its own. 
Small steamboats ascend sometimes, however, 
225 miles, to Jefferson, in Wisconsin. 

The Des Plaines flows 150 miles from the 
southeast corner of Wisconsin to Dresden, 
where it unites with the Kankakee and forms 
the Illinois. 

The Kankakee comes from the northern 
part of Indiana, 100 miles to Dresden. Its 
course is sluggish and through a region chiefly 
occupied hy prairies and marshes. 

The Sangamon travels 200 miles to the Illi- 
nois, about 10 miles above Beardstown. Small 
steamers ascend it in high water. 

The Fox River comes 200 miles from Wis- 
consin to the Illinois, at Ottawa. 

The Vermilion, the Embarras and the Little 
Wabash, are tributaries of the Wabash from 
Illinois. 

Lake Michig-an forms 60 miles of the 
northern boundary of the State. Excepting the 
expansion of the Illinois River, called Lake Pe- 
oria, and the waters of Pishtaka, in the north- 
east, there are no other lakes of importance. 

Railways abound in Illinois as in all parts 
of the West. The whole country is traversed 
in all directions by grand lines of iron road, 
which unite all its cities and towns to each other 
and to all the surrounding States. At a mode- 
rate count we may speak of the miles of railway 
here in thousands. 

In no part of the Union have towns and cities 
sprung up so rapidly and in such wonderful 
growth as in Illinois — increasing so fast in popu- 
lation, that the census of one j'ear is no standard 
by which to count the people of the next. 



Chicago. — Hotels : — The Tremont ; 
■Sriggs House ; the Sherman House. 



ILLINOIS. 



233 



the 



Routes — From New York — To Buffalo or 
Niagara Falls by the Now York and Erie, and 
the HudBoa River and Central Railwaj'S ; from 
Niagara, bj' the Great "Western Railroad (Can- 
ada) to Detroit, and from Detroit through Mich- 
igan by the Michigan Central Railroad ; or, 
from Buffalo by the Lake Erie steamers ; or the 
railwaj' on the Lake Shore, through Erie, Pa., 
Cleveland, and Sandusky to Toledo, and thence 
by the Southern Michigan Route. 

From Philadelphia — Penusylvania Railroad, 
855 miles to Pittsburg ; by Pittsburg, Fort 
"Wayne and Chicago Railroad to Chicago, 

From Baltimore. — See pp. 16, 17. 

From Neic Orleans — Mississippi Central Rail- 
road to Memphis ; thence to Cairo ; thence on 
Illinois Central Railroad through Urbana. 

Chicago is the largest and most important city 
of Illinois, and, in its rapid growth, the most re- 
markable in the Union. In 1831 it was only an 
Indian trading post, and as late as 1840, its pop- 
ulation did not number 5,000, while to-day, it 
can show an actual population of 160,000 inhab- 
itants. Its rapid progress in population and 
wealth, and its unrivalled position on the lake, 
vindicate its claims as the commercial metropo- 
lis of the north-west. The site of the city is a 
gently inclined plane, the ground in the western 
part of the city, three miles from the lake, being 
from 15 to 18 feet above the level of the lake. 
The city is well drained. The streets are much 
wider than those of New York or Philadelphia. 
They cross each other at right angles, and are 
for the most part paved with stone, or with the 
Nicholson pavement. The Chicago river and 
its two branches run through the city, and are 
crossed by swinging bridges, which allow the 
passage of vessels. The river affords a harbor 
for the largest vessels for more than five miles, at 
the entrance of which is a new iron lighthouse. 

Lake street is the Broadway of Chicago ; 
•while Michigan avenue and "Wabash avenue are 
distinguished by princely edifices, and adorned 
with rows of magnificent trees. 

The principal public buildings are the Custom 
House, the Chamber of Commerce, Crosby's Opera 
House, the Court-House, and the Armory. The 
Depot of the Illinois Central Railroad is also a 
very fine building of immense extent. There are 
spacious and elegant churches ; among which are 
the First Baptist, the St. James, Episcopal, the 
First and Second Presbyterian, the Cathedral of 
the Holy Name, St. Patrick's Catholic Church, the 
Universalist Church, aud the Church of the Holy 
Family. 



The collections of books in the Chicago His- 
torical Library, and the Young Men's Associa- 
tion Library, are both very large. 

McVicker's Chicago Theatre is one of the 
largest and best appointed in the United States. 

Chicago is noted for the great extent of its 
grain and lumber trade. The receipts and ship- 
ments of grain are at present about 50,000,000 
bushels each, annually. 

Galena.— Hotels -.-De Soto House. 

Galena is in the extreme north-west corner of 
the State, upon the Fevre River, six miles from its 
entrance into the Mississippi. It is 450 miles above 
St. Louis, .and 171 from Chicago by the Galena and 
Chicago Union Railwaj'. (See Chicago for routes 
to that place from the Atlantic cities.) Springfield, 
the capital of the State, is 250 miles below. The 
Fevre River, upon a rocky ledge of which Galena 
is built, may be considered as an arm or bay of the 
Mississippi. The situation is bold and pictu- 
resque, amidst lofty bluffs. The streets rise in ter- 
races, one above the other, communicating by 
stairway or steps, making a very novel and 
striking picture. Below, on the levee, are the 
business depots. Next come the churches and 
other public edifices ; and yet above, rise, file 
on file, elegant private dwellings and villas. 

Galena is famous as the centre of the great 
lead-mining districts of the Upper Mississipiu. 
Copper, too, is found in considerable quantity in 
the country around. 

With its railroad and steamboat access to all 
points of the vast territory on the north-west, it 
promises soon to double and treble its present 
population of perhaps 12,000. 



Springfield. — Hotels -.—The American, an 
excellent house. 

Springfield, the capital of Illinois. From New 
York, via Bufl'alo or Dunkirk, N. Y. ; Cleveland, 
Crestline, and Bellefontaine, Ohio ; and Indian- 
apolis, Indiana. (See Cleveland and Indiana- 
polis.) 

From Cincinnati, via Indianapolis. 

From St. Louis, up 97 miles, and from Chicago 
down 188 miles, on the Chicago, Alton, and St. 
Louis Railwa}'. 

Springfield lies south-west of the centre of the 
State, near the Sangamon River, upon the con- 
fines of a beautiful prairie district. In the cen- 
tre of the city is a square, occupied by the State 
Capitol and other iiublic edifices, and compassed 
by spacious and elegant streets. Railways diverge 
towards all points. Springfield was the residence, 
and is now the burial-place of Abraham Lincoln, 
the late President of the United States. 



234 



ILLINOIS. 



Peoria.— Hotels :— Peoria Rouse. 

Peoria lies northwest of the centre of the 
State, upon the IlUnois Kiver, at the meeting of 
the Peoria Branches of the Chicago and Rook 
Iiiland Railwaj-s. By these routes it is connect- 
ed, more or less directly, with all the other 
towns of Illinois and neighboring States. From 
Chicago, 160 miles ; from Kock Island, 114 miles ; 
from Springfield 70 miles north ; from St. Louis, 
167 miles. 

Peoria is the most poptilons place upon the 
Illinois ; and, commercially, the most important 
in the State. " It is situated iipon rising 
ground," says a traveller ; " a broad plateau, 
extending back from the bluff— and the river ex- 
panding into a hroad, deep lake. This lake is 
the most beautiful feature in the scenery of 
Peoria, and as useful as it is beautiful, for it 
Bupplies the inhabitants with ample stores of 
fish ; and in winter, with abundance of the 
purest ice. It is often frozen to such a thickness 
that heavy teams can pass securely over it. A 
substantial drawbridge connects the town with 
the opposite shores of the river. The city is 
laid out in rectangular hlocks, the streets being 
wide and well graded. The schools and churches 
are prosperous, and the society good. A public 
square has heen reserved near the centre. Back 
of the town extends one of the finest rolling 
prairies in the State, which already furnishes to 
Peoria its supplies, and much of its business." 
A post was established here by La Salle as early 
aslGS4, hut the history of the present town dates 
only from 1819. The population, in 1860, 
amounted to 14,425. 

Alton.— Hotels: — 77ie Alton House. 

Alton is upon the Mississippi, 25 miles above 
St. Louis, on the Terre Haute and Alton Kail- 
way, direct route from Philadelphia, by the 
Pennsylvania Road to Pittsburg, Pa. ; thence to 
Columbia and Dayton, Ohio, and to IndianapoUs 
and Terre Haute, Indiana. It is 260 miles below 
Chicago, and 185 below Springfield, by the Chi- 
cago, Alton, and St. Louis line. 

The Missouri enters the Mississippi three miles 
below Alton, contributing greatly to the com- 
mercial value of its position. It is, besides, one 
of the best landings on the great river. The 
present city, of about 7,000 people, has grown 
up since 1832, at which time the Penitentiary 
was established here. Upper Alton is the seat, 
of the Shurtlcfi' (Baptist) College. 

Q,uincy.— Hotels : — 

Quincy (population in 1860, aboat 14,000) is 



upon the Mississippi, 170 miles above St. LouiB, 
and 104 miles west of Springfield ; 268 miles 
from Chicago, by the Chicago and Burlington 
Road, 168 miles to Galesburg ; and thence, 100 
miles, by the Northern Cross Railwaj". By 
these lines Quincy is connected also with Galena, 
Rock Island, Peoria, and other cities. The 
town is built upon a limestone bluft', 125 feet 
above the river, in the \icinity of a fertile rolling 
prairie. 

Hock Island. — Hotels : — The Fanshaw 
House ; The JF'uUer House. 

i 

Rock Island is two miles above the mouth of 
the Rock Island River, on the Mississippi, at 
the foot of the Upper rapids, which extend 15 
miles. It is upon the great highway from the 
Eastern States to Iowa and the north-west ; from 
Chicago, 182 miles ; from Iowa City (westward), 
54 miles. This city is named after a large island 
near by. It is a picturesque and most thriving 
place. 

Peru. — Hotels : — Moore's Hotel. 

Peru is upon the Illinois River, and the Chi- 
cago and Rock Island Railway, at the intersec- 
tion of the Illinois Central Road. From Chica- 
go, 100 miles ; from Rock Island, 82 miles. Tho 
Illinois and Michigan Canal terminates near 
Peru. The town is very advantageously situat- 
ed, with such ready and general railway access, 
and being, too, as it is, at the head of natural 
navigation on the Illinois River. The popvfia- 
tion of some thousands is rapidly increasing. 

Fulton, the western terminus of the "Air 
Line" from Chicago, west, is upon the Missis- 
sippi, 136 miles from Chicago. It gives fair 
promise to take a prominent position among 
the river towns. A supurb railway bridge across 
the Mississippi is now in process of building. 

Nauvoo is on the Mississippi River, at the 
second and last rapids below the Falls of St. 
Anthony, which extend up tlie river about 12 
miles. It may be easily reached from Quincy, 
below, or from Burlington, the western terminus 
of the Chicago and Burlington Railway. 

This is the site of the famous Mormon City, 
which was founded in 1840, by "Joe Smith" 
and his followers, and once contained a popula- 
tion of 18,000. It is located on a bluff, but is 
distinguished from every thing on the river 
bearing that name, by an easy, graceful slope, 
of very great extent, rising to an unusual height, 
and containing a smooth, regular surface, which, 
with tho plain at its summit, is suificient for the 
erection of an immense city. Nauvoo was laid 
out on a very extensive plan, and many of tha 



ILLINOIS. — MICHIGAK. 



235 



houses were handsome structures. The great 
Mormon Temple, an object of attraction, and 
seen very distinctly from the river, was 128 feet 
long, 88 feet wide, and 65 feet high to the top of 
the cornice, and 163 feet to the top of the cupola. 
It would accommodate an assemblage of 3,000 
persons. It was built of compact, polished 
limestime, obtained on the spot, resembling mar- 
ble. The architecture, although of a mixed 
order, in its main features resembled Doric. In 
the basement of the Temple was a lai-ge stone 
basin, supported by 12 oxen of colossal size ; it 
was about 15 feet high altogether, all of white 



stone, and well carved. In this font the Mor- 
mons were baptized. This building, without an 
equal in the West, and worth half a million of 
dollars, was fired by an incendiary, on the 9th 
of October, 1848, and reduced to a heap of ruins. 
Joe Smith and a number of his followers were 
arrested and confined in the county prison where, 
in June, 1844, they were put to death by a mob, 
disguised and armed. EspeUed from Illinois, by 
force of arms, the Mormon community removed 
to their present settlements, in Utah. Since 
then, a company of French socialists, led by M. 
Cabet, have established themselves here. 



MICHIGAN. 



The imique character of the scenery of the upper peninsula of Michigan, and the present easy 
means of access, promise to make the region one of the most popular summer resorts in the Union. 
Excepting in portions of its 'southern boundary, this State is everywhere surrounded by 
the waters of the Great Lakes, insomuch that it has a coast of much more than a thousand miles. 
The country is, in shape, something after the position of a reversed letter ^j, divided into two pe- 
ninsulas. All the northern shore of the upper portion or top stroke of the %, is washed by the 
waters of Lake Superior, with Lake Huron, Green Bay, and "Wisconsin on the south. Of the 
lower peninsula, Lake Michigan foi-ms the entire western boundary, v/hile on the east there are 
Lakes Huron, St. Clair and Erie, and Michigan and Huron on the north. Of this immense lake- 
coast, 350 miles belong to Lake Superior, as much more to Lake.Michigan, 300 to Lake Huron, 40 
to Lake Erie and 30 to St. Clair. Besides these grand waters which encompass the State about 
like a girdle, there are many beautiful ponds scattered over the interior, and bearing thither the 
picturesque beauty of the shores. 

The southern peninsula is more interesting in an agricultural than in a pictorial point of view. 
It is in surface notably unvaried — a vast plain, indeed, undulating but not broken by anj"- eleva- 
tions worthy of mention. It has, however, peculiar features which will interest the traveller, in 
its great prairie lands and that special characteristic of the western landscape — the Oak Openings 
— a species of natural park meagerly covered with trees. 

The shores, however, even of this part of Michigan, are often picturesquely varied, with steep 
banks and blufis, and shifting sand-hiUs, reaching, sometimes, a height of 200 or more feet. 

The romantic lands of the "Lake State" are in the upper peninsula, which is rich in all the 
loveliness of rugged, rocky coast, of the most fantastic and striking character, in beautiful streams, 
rapids, and cascades. Here, making a part of the scenery of Lake Superior, which we have else- 
where visited, are the "Wisconsin, or Porcupine Mountains, 2,000 feet in height, and those strange 
huge castellated masses of sandstone, celebrated as the Pictured Rocks. The famous straits of 
Mackinaw unite the converging floods of Lakes Hm-on and Michigan at the extreme northern 
apex of the lower peninsula, and the beautiful Sault de St. Marie conducts the wondering tourist 
from Lake Huron to Lake Superior on the north. The St. Mary separates the upper peninsula at 
its north-eastern extremity from Canada. The Pictured Rocks are about 60 miles west of this 
passage. Here the famous white-fish and other finny game may reward the patience of the 
angler. 

The rivers of Michigan are chiefly small streams, but many of them, especially those in the 
mouutain districts of the north, are replete with pleasant themes for the pencil of the artist. 



236 



MIOniGAK'. 



The history of this State has more points of interest than ■we are apt to find in this section of 
the Union, recording as it does some memorahle incidents of Indian adventure and important ex- 
ploits in the American and English war of 1812. After England had dispossessed the French, 
■who first settled the country in the latter part of the seventeenth century, there arose among the 
Indian tribes the famous chieftain Pontiac, who availed himself of the opportunity afforded by 
the outburst of the Revolution, to attempt the entire expulbion of the -white invaders of his an- 
cestral lands. The chief planned a general attack upon all the English forts on the lakes ; mas- 
sacred the garrison at Mackina-w, and laid siege, for some months, to Detroit. 

From its contiguity to Canada, Michigan -was called early into the field in the -war of 1812. De- 
troit -was surrendered to the enemy by General Hull, August 15th, the fort at Mackinavs' having 
already been captured. A number of American prisoners of war -were butchered by the Indians 
at Frenohtown on the 22d of January, 1S13. The State suffered at this period many trials, until 
General Harrison at length drove the British into Canada, carrying the war into their own coun- 
try. Detroit was not surrendered to the United States until 1796. Michigan came into the Union 
as au independent State in the year 1S37. 



Railways. — The Michigan Central railway 
extends 2S0 miles from Detroit to Chicago, 111. 

The Michigan Southern, in connection with the 
Northern Indiana, traverses the Southern line of 
Michigan and the upper line of Indiana, 243 mUes 
fi'om Toledo to Chicago. 

The Detroit and Milwaukee road crosses the 
State, 1S6 miles, from Detroit to Grand Haven, on 
Lake Michigan, opposite Milwaukee. 

The Great Western (Canada) railway has its 
westei-n terminus oisposite Detroit. The Grand 
Trunk connects at Detroit with the Michigan 
Central, Detroit and Milwaukee, and Mich. So. 
railway. 

The Amhoy and Lansing road, 25 miles from 
Owasso to Lansing, the State Capital. 

The Flint and Holly railway, from Holly on the 
Detroit and Milwaukee road, north to Saginaw. 

The Detroit, Monroe and Toledo railway, from 
Detroit south to Toledo, Ohio. 

The Jackson Branch of the Michigan So. railway, 
from Adrian north to Jackson on the Mich. Central. 

Detroit.— Hotels :— The Russell House ; ihe 
Biddle House. 

EouTES :— From New York. By the Hudson 
River or Harlem Railway to Albany, thence by 
the Central Railway to Buffiilo or Niagara F.alls, 
or to Bnffalo and Niiigara by the Xew York and 
Erie Railway. (See these routes elsewhere.) 
From Buftalo or Niagara, take the Great West- 
ern Railway (Canada) to Windsor, opposite De- 
tro;t. Total distance from New York about 673 
miles. Detroit may also be pleasantly reached 
from Buffalo or Dunkirk, via Cleveland, San- 
dusky City and Toledo, Ohio, by the railways on 
the southern shore of Lake Erie, or by the Lake 
Erie steamers. From Chicago to Detroit, hy 



the Michigan Central or by the Michigan South- 
ern and Northern Indiana railways ; distance, 
282 miles. Several trains daily on all these 
routes. 

Detroit is one of the great commercial depots 
of the West, and the cliief city of Michigan. It 
is pleasantly situated upon the Detroit River, a 
link in the chain of waters wliich unite Lake 
Huron .and Lake Erie. This strait, for such it 
is, gives the city its French name — de-truit. It is 
here about half a mile in width, and is charm- 
ingly dotted with beautiful islands. Detroit oc- 
cupies a position admirable for business activity, 
being directly in the way of the flood of travel 
and transportation from the Atlantic to the Mis- 
sissippi, and great railways and steamers, with' 
their freights, necessarily paying it tribute. Not 
only is the city thus commercially alive, but it is 
distinguished also for its manufactories of many 
kinds. 

Jefferson a,x\i Woodward avenues, and Congress 
street, are fine thoroughfares. .The Campus 
Martius is a good example of its public squares. 
There is a fine open area called the Grand Cir- 
cus, towards which the avenues of that part of 
the city lying hack of the river, converge. The 
Old State House (Detroit was the capital of 
Michigan at one time) is a noteworthy edifice, 
with its dome and its t.all steeple overlooking the 
town and its environs, Lake St. Clair above, and 
the Canadian shores. The City Hall is a brick 
structure of a hundred feet fafade. The city pos- 
sesses, also, a fine Custom House, a ]\Iarine Hos- 
pital, and other public edifices, and many elegant 
private residences. 

Detroit was founded hy the French in 1670. 
The Capital of the State was here until it was 
removed to Lansing. The present population is 
45,619. 



MICHIGAN. — MISSOUEI. 



237 



Xiansing. — Hotels :~Lansing House. 

Lansiug, the cnpilal of Michigan, is upon the 
Grand Kiver, 110 miles north-west of Detroit. 
The Detroit and Milwaulcee railway approaches 
within 25 miles at Owasso. From that station, a 
pleasant ride on the Amboy and Lansing railway 
speedily bears the traveller to the little capital. 
Lansing became the seat of the State government 
in 184T, at which period it was almost a wilderness. 
Its population is now about 3,000. 

Ann Arbor is a flourishing place of 4,000 
or more people, upon the line of the Michigan 
Central railway, 37 miles west of Detroit. It is 
the seat of the State University, founded in 1837. 
This Institution is liberally endowed, and has 
about 300 students. 

Ypsilanti. — Hotels : — The SawMns House. 

Tpsilanti (with a population of about 3,000) is 
upon the line of the Central railway, SO miles 
from Detroit. 

Michigan towns and stations on the Central 
railway, and their distances from Detroit : Dear- 
born, 10 miles ; "Wayne, 18 do. ; Ypsilanti, 30 do. ; 
Ann Arbor, 37 do. ; Dexter, 47 do. ; Chelsea, 
54 do. ; Grass Lake, 65 do. ; Jackson, 75 do. ; 
Parma, 86 do. ; Albion, 95 do. ; Marshall, 101 
do. ; Battle Creek, 120 do. ; Galesburg, 134 do. ; 



Kalamazoo, 143 do. ; Matta-wan, — ; Paw Paw, 
159 do. ; Decatur, 167 do. ; Dowagiac, 178 do. ; 
Niles, 191 do. ; Buchanan, 196 do. ; Terre Coupee, 
202 do. ; New Buffalo, 218 do. ; Michigan City, 
22S do. 

Monroe City.— Hotels :— Strong'' s Hold. 

Monroe City, one of the principal towns of 
Michigan, (population about 8,000,) is upon the 
Raisin River, two miles from Lake Erie, 40 miles 
below Deti'oit, and at the eastern terminus of 
the Michigan Southern railway for Chicago and 
the West. 

Monroe was settled by the French ab^ut 1776. 

Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, is the 
western terminus of the Detroit and Milwaukee 
railway. It is situated on a fine site at the 
mouth of the Grand River, directly opposite the 
beautiful and flourishing city of Milwaukee. It 
has an excellent harbor formed by the river and 
bays, extending some fifteen miles, with a depth 
of water of from thirty to fifty feet, suflEicient 
for vessels of the largest size. The entrance to 
the harbor is sis hundred and fifty feet wide. 
The distance from Grand Haven to Milwaukee 
is eighty miles. A line of transit steamers, fitted 
up in the most costly manner, with every regard 
for the safety and comfort of passengers, jilies 
twice daily between the two ports, in counectioQ 
with the regular trains of cars. 



MISSOUEI. 



MissoTJRi formed part of the ancient territory of Louisiana, purchased by the United States 
from France. A settlement called Fort Orleans was made within its limits by the French in 1719. 
The oldest town in the State, St. Genevieve, was founded in 1755. St. Louis was commenced in 
1764. The State was visited in 1811 and in 1812 by a memorable series of earthquakes, which 
occurred in the vicinage of New Madrid. The face of the country was greatly altered by these 
events — hills entirely disappeared ; lakes were obliterated and new ones formed. The waters of 
the Mississippi River were turned back with such accumulations, that they overran the levees 
built to hem them in, and inundated whole regions, leaving it in its present marshy state. Mis- 
souri is the first of the States formed wholly westward of the Mississippi. 

Landscape of Missouri. The surface of this great State is in many parts level or but slightly 
■undulating. A wide marshy tract occupies an area of 3,000 square miles in the south-eastern part, 
near the Mississippi. In other sections are vast reaches of prairie lands, extending to the Rocky 
Mountains. The Ozark Mountains, which we have seen traversing also the State of Arkansas, 
extend through Missouri, centrally, from north to south. The Ozark hills are elevated table-lands. 
The rich alluvial tracts of the Mississippi lie east of this district, and westward are boundless 
deserts, and treeless plains, sweeping away to the base of the Rocky Mountain ranges. 



238 



MISSOUEI. 



Mineral Resources of ffiCissouri. The 

State is remarkably rich in iron ore, lead and 
copper and coal mines, and in nearly all the 
mineral products. It possesses, too, a great 
variety of marbles, some of them beautifully 
variegated, and other valuable building stones. 

Agricultural Products. The chief staples 
of Missouri are Indian corn, hemp, tobacco, flax, 
and all the varieties of grains, fruits, vegetables, 
and grasses, for the successful growth of which 
the soil is admirably adapted. 

The Missouri River. The restless, tur- 
bid waters of this magnificent river flow fret- 
fully, SjOOe miles from their sources In the re- 
mote west, to their debouchure in the Mississippi, 
not far above the citj' of St. Louis. The entire 
length of the river, including its course to the 
Gulf of Mexico by the Mississippi (1253 miles 
more), is 4,349 miles. 

The head-waters of the Missouri are very near 
the springs, which find their way to the Pacific 
through the channels of the Columbia Kiver. 
Their course is northward for 600 miles, until 
they reach the remarkable cataracts known as 
the Great Falls. Before their arrival here, how- 
ever, and at a distance of 411 miles from their 
source, the waters make the grand passage of the 
hold chasms called the 

Gates of the Rocky Mountains. 

" Here, through a length of six miles, the giant 
rocks rise perpendicularlj' to an elevation of 
1,200 feet. The dark waters, in their narrow 
bed, wash the base of these huge walls so closely, 
that not a foothold is anywhere to be found. It 
is a ghostly gorge on the sunniest day, but when 
its habitual gloom Is deepened by the shadow of 
a stormy skj-, its sentiment of solitude grows 
p.aiufully impressive. Let a thunder peal rever- 
berate, as often hapiiens, in a thousand wailing 
voices through the rooky wndings of this glen, 
and let the blackness of darkness be increased 
by the vanished gleams of the lightning flash, 
and you think you have left this fair world far 
behind you. 

" We were once, with some friends, traversing 
this passage at such a fearful moment as we 
have described, when we became aware that we 
were pursued by a party of Indians. Noiselessl}' 
and breathlessly we urged on our canoes, paus- 
ing at intervals onlj', to ascertain the progress 
of our foes, hope and despair alternately filling 
our breasts, as we seemed at one moment to be 
gaining and at another losing ground. It was 
only now and then that we caught a glimpse of 
the savages, and the sound of their unceasing 
and unearthly yells came to our ears with such 
uncertainty, that it gave us no clue to their posi- 



tion. The excitement of the struggle was tnb- 
tense, as their random arrows flew about our 
ears, and as the deadly effect of our fatal shots 
was told to us by the death-cries from their owni^ 
ranks. 

" We took fresh courage as the increasing 
light spoke our approach to the terminus of 
the glen, and gave us hope, once on terra fii-ma, 
of distancing our foes. New fears, though, 
seized upon us, lest our scanty supply of ammu- 
nition should be exhausted before we reached 
the prayed-for sanctuary. Happily the dread 
vanished, as the arrows of the savages sensibly 
decreased in numbers, and the chorus of their 
infernal shrieks died away. 

" When we at last leaped, panting, upon the 
open shore, not a sound of pursuit was to be 
heard, leaving us the glad hope that we had slain 
tbcm all, or so many as to secure us from further 
danger. But not stopping to verifj' this supposi- 
tion, we made all possible haste to reach the 
camp, which we had so gaily left a few hours be- 
fore. Once safe among our companions, we 
mentally vowed to be wary henceforth how we 
ventured within the Gates of the Rocky Moun- 
tains." 

The Great Falls of the Missouri. 

The descent of the swift river at this point is 
357 feet in 16^- miles. First comes a cascade of 
26 feet, next one of 27 feet, then a third of 19 
feet, and a fourth of 87 feet, the upper and high- 
est.. Between and below these cataracts there 
are stretches of angry rapids. This passage is 
one of extreme beauty and grandeur, and at 
some day, not very distant, perhaps, when these 
western wilda shall be covered with cities and 
towns and peaceful hamlets, this spot will bo 
one of no less eager and numerous pilgrimage 
than manj' far less imposing scenes are now. 
The Falls of the Missouri are esteemed by^the 
few tourists whose good fortune it has been to 
look upon these wtinders, as holding rank scarcely 
below the cataracts of Niagara. 

The upper waters of the Missouri flow through 
a wild, sterUo country, and below, pass vast prai- 
rie stretches. 

Above the river Platte, the open and prairie 
character of the country begins to develop, ex- 
tending quite to the banks of the river, and 
stretching from it indefinitely, in naked grass 
plains, where the traveller may wander for days 
without seeing either wood or water. Beyond 
the " Council Bluffs," which are situated about 
600 miles up the Missouri, commences a country 
of great interest and grandeur, denominated the 
Upper Missouri. It is composed of vast and al- 
most boundless grass plains, through which runs 



Missotmi. 



239 



the Platte, the Tello-w Stone, and, the other 
rivers of this ocean of grass. Eufialoes, ellv, an- 
telopes, and mountain sheep abound. Lewis and 
Clark, and other respectable travellers, relate 
having found here large and singular petrifac- 
tions, both animal and vegetable. On the top of 
a hill they found the petrified skeleton of a huge 
fish, 45 feet in length. The herds of gregarious 
animals, particularly of the buffalo, are innu- 
merable. 

The Missouri is navigable for steamboats, ex- 
cept during periods of extreme drought, 2,575 
miles, from its mouth to the foot of the Great 
Falls. 

The Tellow Stone, one of the principal tribu- 
taries of the Missouri, rises in the same range of 
mountains with the main stream. It enters 
from the south by a mouth 850 yards wide, and 
Is a broad and deep river, having a course of 
about 1,600 miles. The Platte, another of its 
great tributaries, rises in the same range of 
mountains with the parent stream, and, meas- 
ured by its meanders, is suiaposed to have a 
course of about 2,000 miles before it joins that 
river. At its mouth it is nearly a mile wide, 
but it is very shallow, and is not boatable except 
at its highest floods. The Kansas is a very large 
tributary, having a course of about 1,200 miles, 
and is boatable for most of the distance. The 
Osage is a large and important branch of the 
Missouri ; it is boatable for 200 miles, and inter- 
locks with the waters of the Arkansas. The 
Gasconade, boatable for 66 miles, is important 
from having on its banks extensive pine forests, 
from which the great supply of plank and timber 
of that kind is brought to St. Louis. 

Hallways In Missoui-l. This State is des- 
tined, as a chief depot for the products of the 
Great West, to be the centre of an interminable 
radiation of railways. Several magnificent routes 
are already opened towards the Pacific, and 
others are in progress. 

The Pacific Railway is completed at this time 
from St Louis westward 196 miles to Dresden, 
71 miles beyond Jefferson City, the capital of the 
State. At Jefferson City the road leaves the Mis- 
souri Eiver, not to touch it again imtil it reaches 
its western terminus at Kansas, on the Kansas 
Eiver. West of Dresden, the line is in rapid pro- 
gress. Its entire length from St. Louis to Kansas 
will be 2S3 miles. The South-West Branch of the 
Pacific road commences at Franklin, 3T miles west 
of St. Louis, and is now in successful operation as 
far as Eolla, 76 miles from Franklin, v,'here it de- 
flects from the Pacific road, and of 113 miles from 
the city of St. Louis. 

The Hannibal and St. Joseph road extends 206 
miles westerly from Hannibal, on the Missis- 
Bippi, to St. Joseph, on the Missouri. The Great 



Salt Lake Mail, the Pike's Peak Express, and 
the K. Y. Pony Express, taking despatches to 
San Francisco in eight days, all start from St. 
Joseph. A road is in progreiss from St. Joseph 
to Council Blufl's and Omaha. 

The North Missouri Railway extends 304 miles 
from St. Louis to St. Joseph. Mails leave St. 
Joseph, for Kansas, Leavenworth, Omaha City, 
Lawrence, Topeka, Lecompton, Great Salt Lake 
City, and for California. 

The St. Louis and Iron Mountain Railway 
extends from St. Louis 86 miles south to Pilot 
Knob. 

Besides the great roads leading from St. Louis 
westward, numerous lines from the east termi- 
nate here, as the Ohio and Mississippi, 840 miles, 
direct from Cincinnati. The Illinois Central (or 
its connections) from Chicago. The St. Louis, 
Alton, and Terre Haute, 189 miles. The great 
railways northward from New Orleans, Mobile, 
etc. 

St. Lotiis. — Hotels; — Lindell ITmise ; Bar- 
nitni's St. Louis; Everett House ; Wq Planter's, 
and the Olive St. House. 



ROUTES; — From New York, via Chicago (see 
Chicago), .and thence by the Chicago, Alton and 
St. Louis road ; or to Cleveland, Ohio, 596 miles 
(see Cleveland) ; from Clevel.and to Crestline by 
the Cleveland, Cincinnati and Columbus Rail- 
road, 75 miles ; Crestline to Indianapolis (Belle- 
fontaine Line), 209 miles ; Indianapolis to Terre 
Haute (Terre Haute and Richmond route), 73 
miles ; Terre Haute to St. Louis (Terre Haute 
and Alton road), 187 miles ; total, 1137 miles. 
Or from Cincinnati in a direct line, by the new 
route of the Ohio and Mississippi R.ailwaj'. 

From Philadelphia : to Pittsburg by the Penn- 
sylvania Railway, 355 miles ; Pittsburg to Crest- 
line (Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago road), 
187 miles ; Crestline to Indianapolis (Bellefon- 
t.aine road), 206 miles ; Indianapolis to Terre 
Haute (Terre Haute and Richmond road); 73 
miles ; Terre Haute to St. Louis (Terre Haute 
and Alton line), 187 miles ; total, 1,008 miles. 

From Baltimore : Baltimore and Ohio road to 
Wheeling, 397 miles ; to Zanesville, 82 miles ; 
Columbus, 141 miles ; Dayton, 71 miles ; Indian- 
apolis, 108 miles ; Terre Haute, 73 miles ; St. 
Louis, 187 miles ; total, 1,059. 

History. The present site of the great city of 
St. Louis was chosen by Laclede, on the 15th 
of February, 1764. It was settled as a trading 
station for the trappers of the West. The 
average annual value of furs, brought here dur- 



240 



MISSOUEI. 



ing the fifteen suceeesivo years ending -with 1804, 
was $203,750. The number of deer skins was 
158,000 ; beaver, 36,900 ; otter, 8,000 ; bear, 5,100 ; 
butl'alo, 850, and so on. At this period of wild 
life, the population of St. Louis was between 
1,500 and 2,000, half of whom were always away 
as voyageurs and trappers. Up to 1820, the num- 
ber of the people had not reached 5,000. 

In 1768 (August 11th), Rious and his band of 
Spanish troops took possession of the place, in 
behalf of Her Catholic Majesty, who kept pos- 
session until it was transferred to the United 
States, March 26th, 1804. The first brick house 
was built ia 1813. The first steamboat arrived 
in 1817. The history of St. Louis as a city began 
in 1822, with tlie name bestowed upon it by La- 
clede, in honor of Louis XV. of France. Be- 
tween 1825 and 1830, emigration began to tlow in 
from Illinois, and the place thrived. Tlie popu- 
lation in 1830 had reached 6,694 ; in 1840 it had 
BWcUed to 16,409 ; in 1850 it was 77,850 ; in 1S52 
it was (the suburbs included) over 100,000, to 
which a census to-day would add another hundred 
thousand. This is the magnificent way in which 
cities grow in the Great West. 

St. Louis lies upon the right bank of the Mis- 
Bissippi River, 20 miles below the entrance of the 
Missouri, and 174 miles above the mouth of the 
Ohio. It is 744 miles below the Falls of St. An- 
thony, and 1,194 miles above the city of New 
Orleans. It is built upon two limestone pla- 
teaus, one 20 and the other 60 feet above the 
"waters of the Mississippi. From the plain, into 
which the upper terrace widens, fine views of the 
city and its surroundings are presented. The 
entire extent of St. Louis along the curves of the 
river is about 7 miles, and back some 3 miles, 
though the densely occupied area spreads over a 
space of only 5 miles riverward and 2-} miles 
Inland. The streets are of good width, and regu- 
lar. Front street, stretching along the levee, is 
100 feet in breadth. This highwaj-, and Main 
and Second streets, back of and parallel with it, 
are the great commercial streets. 

Lafayette Square is almost the only public park 
of importance which the city yet possesses. 

The public edifices of St. Louis, in its munici- 
pal buildings, churches, hotels, market-houses, 
and charitable institutions, are in every way 
creditable to the taste, munificence, and enter- 
prise of the people. The City Hall, the Custom 
House, and the Court House, are worthy of a 
metropolitan fame. Of the churches, which 
perhaps much exceed 60 in number, many are 
very imposing : as the Catholic Cathedral, on 
Walnut street, between Second and Third ; the 
St. George (Episcopal), at the corner of Locust 
and Seventh streets, and the Church of the Mes- 



siah (Unitarian), at the corner of Olive and 
Ninth streets. The United States Arsenal is a 
grand structure in the south-east part of the 
city ; and 13 miles below, on the river banks, are 
the Jefferson Barracks. 

If the visitor at St. Louis should chance to bo 
benevolent, or literary, or educational, he will, 
perhaps, like to look at the City Hospital, the 
Marine Hospital (3 miles below the city), the 
Home for the Friendless, the Sisters' Hospital, 
and the Orphan Asylums ; or the University of 
St. Louis, founded in 1832 by Roman Catholic 
patronage; Papers Medical College; the Wash^ 
ington University ; the Caroudin College of the 
Germans; the 3Iisscniri University ; the Mer- 
cantile Library AssoaiaMon, established in 1S40, 
and at the numerous excellent private schools and 
convents. Let the stranger, in this progressive 
metropolis of the great valley of the Mississippi, 
seek his pleasure as he will, here are the oppor- 
timities to fljid it. 

Many railways bend their vast iron tracks to- 
wards St. Louis from all directions eastward, and 
soon they will be converging hither from the 
Rocky Mountain side. Already the great Pacific 
road comes in 282 miles from Kansas ; the Han- 
nibal and St. Joseph route oomes from a distance 
of 206 miles towards the Rocky Mountains ; and 
another line is traversing the State in a south- 
westerly direction. 

St. Louis is the great starting point from civi- 
lization for savagedom— the place where adven- 
turers for Kansas and Nebraska, and Utah, and 
for the wild traverse of the Rocky Mountains to 
the Pacific States and Territories, begin their 
rude forest journey. 

Jefferson City.— Hotels :— 

Jeflferson City, the capital of Missouri, is upon 
the Missouri River, 125 miles west of St. Louis, 
by the Pacific Railway, or 155 miles by steam- 
boats up the river. The situation is bold and 
beautiful, overlooking the turbid waters of the 
Missouri and their cliff-bound shores. The 
population in 1853 amounted to about 3,000. 
Jefferson City is on the great route to Kansas, 
Nebraska, Utah, California, and all the Rooky 
Mountain region. 

St. Joseph.— Hotels :—Patee House. 

St. Joseph is upon the Missouri River, 340 
miles above Jefferson City, and 496 miles, by 
water, from St. Louis. It is the most important 
place in the western part of the State, and a great 
point of departure for the western emigrants. 
Population, 5,000. See Hannibal. 



J 



r 



'\ ! 



MISSOUEI. — IOWA. 



241 



BEannibal.— Hotels : — Planters House. 

Ilrxiinibal is upon tlio Mississippi, 153 miles 
aliovo St. Louis, and 15 miles below Quhicy, Illi- 
nois. A railway over 200 miles long now extends 
entirely across the State, thus connecting Han- 
nibal with St. Joseph, on the western boundary. 

Lexing'ton. — Hotels: — City Hotel — Vir- 
ginia Hotel. 

Lexington is upon the Missouri Eiver, 120 
miles, by land, from Jefferson City. The town 
has prospered by its trade with the Santa F6 
and Great Salt Lake caravans. Population in 
ISGO, about 4,000. 

St. Charles City.— Hotels -.—TheVirginia 
House — The City Hotel. 

St. Charles City is upon the Missouri, 22mile8 
from its mouth. By land it is 6 miles below the 
Mississippi. Population, between 3,000 and 4,000. 

Cape Girardeau. — Hotels : — St. Charles. 

Cape Girardeau is upon the Mississippi, 46 
miles above the mouth of the Ohio. The St. 
Vincent College is located here. 

Weston.— Hotels -.—The St. George. 

"Weston is upon the Missouri, 200 miles by 
railroad beyond Jefferson Citj', and 5 miles 
above Fort Leavenworth. With the exception 
of St. Louis, Jefferson is the most active busi- 
ness town in the State. It drives a busy trade 
with the western emigrants, and supplies the 
garrison at Fort Leavenworth. 



Palmyra is 6 miles from Marion City, its 
landing place on the Mississippi Iliver. Tho 
railway from Hannibal across the State to St. 
Joseph now calls at Palmyra. 

Carondelet is 6 miles below St. Louis, on 
the Mississippi. 

St. Genevieve is 61 miles below St. Louis, on 
the Mississippi. It is the shipping point for tho 
products of the Iron works at Iron Mountain. 

New Madrid was formerly a noted place, 
but, owing to the dreadful 'earthquakes it ex- 
perienced in 1811 and 1812, it has sunk into com- 
parative insignificance. It is situated on a great 
curve or bend of the river, the land being ex- 
tremely low, and the trees along the bank pre- 
senting a great uniformity of appearance. Tlie 
view is most monotonous — a feature, indeed, 
characteristic of much of the scenery of the 
Lower Mississippi. On this side there is scarcely 
a dozen feet elevation for tho distance of 100 
miles. By the earthquake thousands of acres 
were sunk, and multitudes of lakes and ponds 
were created. The churchyard of this village, 
with its sleeping tenants, was precipitated into 
the river. The earth burst in what are called 
sand-blows. Earth, sand, and water were 
thrown up to great heights in tho air. The river 
was dammed up, and flowed backwards. Birds 
descended from the air, and took shelter in the 
bosoms of people that were passing. The whole 
country was inundated. A great number of 
boats passing on the river were sunk. One or 
two that were fastened to islands, went down 
with the islands. The country was but sparsely 
peopled, and most of the buildings were cabins, 
or of logs ; and it was from these circumstanceB 
that but few people perished. 



IOWA. 



Iowa is one of the new States, admitted into the Union in 1S46. It lies wholly beyond the Mis- 
BiBsippi, which washes all its eastern boundary. On this side, its neighbors are Wisconsin and 
Illinois. On the north is Minnesota ; on the west, Minnesota and Nebraska, and upon the south, 
Missouri. The State has no very notable history, beyond the usual adventure and hardship of a 
lone forest life, among savage tribes. Tho settlement of tho region was seriously began (first at 
Burlington) in the year 1833. 

The landscape of Iowa is marked by the features which we have traced in our visit to neigh- 
boring portions of the north-west. The surface is, for the most part, one of undulating prairie, 
varied with ridges or plateaus, whose extra elevations impel the diverse course of the rivers and 
streams. The Coteau des Prairies enters the State from Minnesota, and forms its highest ground. 
On the Mississippi, in the north-east, the landscape assumes a bolder aspect, and pictures of rug- 
ged rocky height and bluff are seen. A few miles above Dubuque, Table Mound will interest tho 
traveller. It is a conical hill, perhaps 500 feet high, flattened at the summit. 
11 




Enr/Ted 



'^'^f^tcAccof'^n^^.ts.indt^y,-,^rjB^^~ ■■"■-'■" •■-'^ ;■; -V-c^W-.^.Vn,-, .-'"lW^^^~»'^ 



242 



IOWA. 



The Prairies, which are sometimes 20 miles 
across, preseaL maay scenes of interest, in their 
■way — and it is a -way not ungrateful to the uu- 
aco"astomed eyes of the visitor from the Atlantic 
States— monoloaous as it may, poisibly, grow in 
time. The rivers in some parts of the State 
■wind through ravines of magnesian limestone, 
amidst wliioh they have gradually -worked their 
way, leaving the rociis in every grotesque form 

of imai;ery. 
Sink Holes.— The depressions in the ground, 

called sinks, are curious objects. These singular 
places, which are numerous, are circular holes, 
10 and sometimes 20 feet across. They abound 
more particularly oa Turkey River, in the upper 
part of the State. jSTear the mouth of this stream 
there are also to be seen many small mounds, 
sometimes rows of them, varying in height from 
4 to 6 feet. 

Minerals.— Iowa has many mineral pro- 
ducts, avnon^ which is au abundant supjily of 
lead. Copper and zinc are also freely found, and 
plenty of coal. 

The Des Moines River, the most impor- 
tant stream in Iowa, rises in Minnesota and 
flows 450 miles through the State, to its south- 
east extremity, where it enters the Mississippi, 
4 miles below" Keokuk. It is navigable for small 
steamers 250 miles, or may be made so, with 
some practicable improvements. 

Tlie Iowa Hiver is 300 miles in length, and 
is navigable from the Mississippi upwards, SO 
miles, "to Iowa City. The Skunk Paver, 200 
miles, the Cedar, the Makoqueta, and the Wap- 
sipincion, are all tributaries of the Mississippi. 

The Missouri and the Great Sioux rivers 
form tlie entire western boundary of Iowa. 

Railways. The State of Iowa is like all 
the-Nortli-west, being rapidly covered by an 
endless network of rails. At Davenport and 
Rock Island, on the Mississippi, a great route 
comes in from the Atlantic cities, via Chicago, 
and is in progress westward, via Des Moines, to 
Council BlulTs and Omaha City, on the far-off 
shores of the Missouri. The far western portion 
extends now to Iowa City, which is (by rail) 288 
miles from Chicago. The Dubuque and Pacific 
road is open HI miles to Cedar Falls, and in 
progress to Fort Dodge. 

The Chicago, Iowa, and Nebraska Railway, 
passing the Mississippi at Fulton and Clinton, 
extends, now, 82 miles beyond thoee towns to 
Cedar Rapids. The Keokuk, Fort Des Moines, 
and Minnesota, beginning at "Warsaw and Keo- 
kuk, on the Mississippi, will intersect the road 
from Chicago to Council Bluffs and Omaha at 
Des Moines. It is open now from Keokuk 38 
miles to Bentonsport. 



Dubuq.Tie. — Hotels ■.— Washington House; 
Julien House. 

Routes. Fromthe Atlantic cities or the South, 
see Chicago at St. Louis. 

From Chicago, proceed by the Galena and 
Chicago Union Railway, through upper Illinois, 
via Galena, 1S4 miles, to Dubuque. From St. 
Louis, take the steamer up the Mississippi River, 
450 miles. 

Dubuque is upon the banks of the Upper Mis- 
sissippi, in the midst of a verj' picturesque coun- ■. 
try. It is, indeed, if we possibly except Iowa: 
City, the most beautiful town in the State. It 
occupies a broad, elevated terrace, which 
stretches along the great river for miles. M.any 
fine buildings are to be seen here. Numerous 
railways of the West find their way to this point. 
Dubuque is the oldest town in Iowa, having beea 
settled by the French as long ago as 1786. 

Iowa City. — Hotels : — The Clinton House. 

Iowa City is charmingly situated upon some 
oval blufis of the Iowa River about 80 miles from 
the meeting of that water with the Mississippi. 
It may be reached from Chicago (see Chicago, 
for routes to that point from New York and 
other places) by the Chicago and Rock Island 
Railway, 182 miles from Chicago to Rock Island, 
on the Mississippi ; and thence, 54 miles, by the 
Mississippi and Missouri Railway. From St. 
Louis, by the lUinois Railway, or by the Missis- 
sippi River, to Davenport ; and thence, 54 miles, 
by railwaj'. 

The site of Iowa City was a -wilderness, in 
1839, when it was selected as the seat of govern- 
ment of the then prospective State. "Within ono 
short year it had a population of 600 or 700 peo- 
ple ; and now, more than as many thousands. 
The town is delightfully embosomed in shady 
groves, and surrounded by fertile prairies. At 
the intersection of the chief streets, the Iowa 
Avenue and Capitol Street, which are each 100 
feet wide, stands the former State House, a 
handsome Doric building, 120 feet in length. It 
is constructed of ringed and spotted stone, called 
"bird's-eye marble," which was quarried in the 
neighborhood. This edifice, and its extensive 
grounds, have been granted to the State Univer- 
sity, Fort Des Moines having been selected as 
the future capitol. The State Asylums for the 
deaf, the blind, and the dumb, are located at 
Iowa City. The Iowa River is at all times nav- 
igable to the city. 

IBurliug-ton. — Hotels ;— Basset House. 



IOWA. — WISCONSIN". 



243 



Burlington, formerly the capital of Iowa, and 
ore of the most poxiulous and important places 
in the State, is upon the Mississippi River, 250 
miles above St. Louis, 45 miles aljovc Keokuk, 
and 88 miles east-soutli-east of Iowa City. Sec 
Chicago, for routes thither from the Atlantic 
cities, and from that point proceed by the 
Chicago and Burlington Railway, 210 miles 
Bouth-westerly, across the State of Illinois to 
Burlington. Burlington is partly built upon the 
bluft's which characterize the shores of the Mis- 
Bissippi in this the most picturesque portion of 
its endless journey, from the Great Lakes to the 
Gulf of Mexico. In 1854, its population was 
about 7,000. At this time it is very much more, 
as it is growing rapidly, like all the cities of the 
West. 

The famous Indian chieftain. Black Hawk, 
once dwelt at Burlington, and here his bones lie 
buried. 

One of the present routes to Nebraska, starts 
from BurUngton by railway a few miles to Mount 
Pleasant ; and thence, by stages, to Omaha City. 

Davenport. — Hotels : — Le Claire House. 

Davenport is on the Mississippi, at that foot of 
the Upper Rapids, opposite Eock Island, Illinois, 
and on the railways from Chicago to Iowa Citj-. 
See route to Iowa Citj". The Iowa College was 
established here some 13 years ago. The land- 
scape of this region is extremely attractive. 

Keokuk.— Hotels -.—The Billings House. 

Keokuk is at the foot of the Lower Rapids of 
the Mississippi, 205 miles above St. Louis, and 
125 miles below Iowa City. See Burlington, for 
route, from Chicago and the eastern cites to that 
place. Keokuk is not far below, following the 
river. 



This is the head of navigation for the largest 
steamers, and the outlet for the rich valley of tlio 
Des Moines, the most populous portioji of llio 
Slate. Fine steamers run daily between Keokuk 
and St. Louis, and a railway is in progress 
hence, ISO miles, to Dubuque, passing Burling- 
ton, Davenport, and Lyons, on the Iowa side 
of the Mississippi and Rock Island, Fulton, 
Galena, and other points upon the Illinois 
banks. 

Muscatine is upon the Mississippi, 100 miles 
above Keokuk, and 32 miles from Iowa City. 
See Chicago, for routes to that city from the 
East, and take the Cliicago and Rock Island 
Railway, 182 miles to Rook Island ; cross the 
Mississippi to Davenport (opposite) ; thence, 
down the river, or, more expeditiously, bj' the 
Mississippi and Missouri Railway, Iowa City- 
wards 25 miles to Muscatine Junction, and 12 
miles, by branch road, to Muscatine. 

Muscatine is at the apex of a bend in the Mis- 
sissippi, on the summit of a bold range of rocky 
bluffs, seen from the water 40 miles away. It 
was first settled by the whites, in 1836 ; before 
that period it was an Indian trading-post, called 
Manatheka. It is one of the most active and 
populous cities in the State. 

Port Madison is a growing town upon the 
Mississippi, 22 miles above Keokuk, and the 
same distance below Burlington. See routes to 
these places. 

Fort Des Moines, selected as the capital 
of Iowa, in 1855, is at the junction of the Des 
Moines and Raccoon Rivers, 120 miles West of 
Iowa City. Steamboats ascend the Des Moines 
to this point from the Mississippi. The railway 
from Davenport to Council Bluffs (completed 
now to Iowa City) is to pass through Fort Des 
Moines. The place, as a United States mihtary 
post, was evacuated in 1846. 



WISCONSIN. 



■Wisconsin came into the tlnion as a State as late as 1848, though the 'country was -visited, as 
was all the wilderness of which it was so recently a part, by the French missionaries two centuries 
ago. Its growth has been, and continues to he, unexampled anywhere, excepting in the surround- 
ing new States and Territories. 

The topographical aspect of Wisconsin is very similar to that of other portions of the north- 
west section of the Union, presenting, for the most part, grand stretches of elevated prairie land, 
sometimes 1,000 feet higher than the level of the sea. Though there are no mountains in this 
State, there are the characteristic plateau ridges of the latitude, formed by depressions, which 
drain the waters, and afford beds for the rivers and lakes. The descent of the land towards Lake 
Superior is very sudden, and the streams are full of falls and rapids. 



244 



•WISCONSIN. 



The floods of Lake Superior and Lake Michigan wash the northern and eastern honndaries ol : 

■Wisconsin, and numherless lesser waters are scattered through the interior, and more ahundantlj ' 
over the north-western counties. The shores of these lakes are often most picturesque in rich 
forost growth, and in rocky precipice. The waters are clear and full of delicious fish. 



Lake ■Winnebagro, the largest of the inte- 
rior waters of Wisconsin, lies south-east of the 
middle of the State. Its length is ahout 28 miles, 
with a width of 10 miles. The Fox or Neenah 
River unites it with Green Bay, an arm of Lake 
Michigan. A singular wall which might, in its 
regular formation, easily he supposed the work 
of art, instead of nature, follows the eastern shore 
of "Winnebago for 15 miles. This wall' rises 
through all its extent ahout 5 feet ahove the sur- 
face of the water, and sinks in places hundreds 
of feet helow. Steamhoats navigate the lake. 

The Mississippi River forms much of the 
western boundary of Wisconsin, separating it 
from Iowa and Minnesota, with which States 
it thus shares the charming scenery of this 
portion of the great river — the noble expan- 
sion of Lake Pepin, with its hold precipices, and 
headland of the Maiden Rock, and the La Grange 
Mountain ; Mount Trempleau in La Crosse 
County, with its perpendicular cUffs 500 feet in 
height, and many other striking scenes. 

The Wisconsin Kiver, the largest stream 
in the State, rises in a small lake called Vieux 
Desert, on the northern boundary, and flows 
south-westerly six hundred miles to the Missis- 
sippi at Prairie du Cbien. Shifting sandbars 
obstruct the navigation very much, yet steam- 
boats ascend as high as Portage City, 200 miles 
distant, by the windings of the River. At Por- 
tage City a ship-canal conducts small steamers 
to the water of the Neenah or Fox River (the 
outlet of Lake Winnebago), by which the na^•i- 
gation is continued through the State from the 
Mississippi to Lake Michigan. The Wisconsin 
River presents many beautiful pictures to the 
eye of the traveller. At the rernarkable passage 
called the Grandfather Bull Falls, where the 
waters break through a hold gorge a mile and a 
half in length, and flanked on either hand with 
rugged walls 150 feet in height, some fine chaly- 
beate springs add to the attractions of this 
charming spot, and promise to make it before 
long a favorite summer resort. 

Petenwell Peak. On the Wisconsin, helow 
Grandrather Bull Falls, some 60 miles, there is a 
singular oval mass of rock, 900 feet in length, 
and 300 wide, with an elevation above the sur- 
rounding country of 200 feet. This is Petenwell 
Peak. The summit for 70 feet is perpendicular, 
and the rocks in their fantastic groupings assume 
the most wonderful architectural appearances, 



almost persuading the voyager that he is trans- 
ported back to feudal ages, and is passing through 
a barbaric land of castled and hattlemented 
heights. 

Portification Hock is another interesting 
scene, a few miles below Petenwell Peak. The 
cliffs, here, have a vertical elevation of 100 feet. 

The Dalles of Wisconsin. At the part 
of the river thus called, the water passes for 
half a dozen miles between hills of solid rock, 
in height from 30 to 100 feet. The narrowest 
width of the river here is 55 feet. 

The St. Iiouis River, which forms part of 
the boundary between Minnesota and Wisconsin, 
is remarkable for a series of bold rapids, called 
the Falls of St. Louis. Of this scene we have 
f-poken in our mention of the landscape of Min- 
nesota. 

The St. Louis River is the original source of 
the St. Lawrence. 

The Badaxe, Black, Chippewa, the Rock, the 
Des Plaines, the Fox, and other rivers of Wis- 
consin, are much broken by cataracts and rapids. 

Mounds or Eartli-works in Wiscon- 
sin. The antiquary, no less than the lover of 
natural beaut)', may find here striking sources 
of pleasure, in objects scarcely less strange than 
the mystical relics of the old world. Scattered 
everywhere, over the plains of Wisconsin, are 
singular structures of earth, formed — who knows 
when, or by what people? — after the likeness of 
men and animals. At Prairieville, there is one 
of these weird works, 56 feet in length, which is 
in the similitude of a turtle ; near the Blue 
Mounds is another, representing a man in a re- 
cumbent attitude, 120 feet in length ; near Cass- 
ville yet another of these eccentric labors has 
been found, made in the image of the extinct 
Mastodon. At Aztalan, in Jefi'erson County, 
there is an old fortification 550 yards in length, 
and 275 wide. The walls are from 4 to 5 feet 
high, and more than 20 feet thick. 

The Blue Mounds are in Dane County. 
The most elevated rises nearly 1,200 feet above 
the waters of the Wisconsin River. 

The Porest Scenery, and the ever-welcome 
oak openings— the oasis of the prairie — will be 
among the gratifications of the nature-loving 
tourist in Wisconsin. The hunter may indulge 
his passion for the chase at will, whether he as- 
pire to the wild game of the wilderness, or to 
the gentler sports by the brook-side. 



"WISOONSIIT. 



245 



Railways in Wisconsin. Several hun- 
dred miles of railway are completed, and many 
other routes are in procresB in Wisconsin. 

Tho Chicago and Milwaukee extends along 
the western shore from Lake Michigan, 85 miles 
from Chicago to Milwaukee, connecting with 
various routes to other towns in the State. 

The Milwaukee and Minnesota road extends 
the entire breadth of the State south, from Mil- 
waukee to La Crosse. 

The Milwaukee and Mississippi R. R. extends 
to Prairie du Chien, 200 miles, with branch to 
Janesville. The Milwaukee and Horicon, from 
Horicon to Stevens Point, on the Wisconsin. 
Racine is connected with Beloit by railway, 65 
miles. Kenosha, Sheboygan, and Manitowoc 
are each building railways westward, and the 
Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lac route is be- 
ing urged forward northward from Pond duLac 
to Lake Superior. 

Besides these main lines, other lesser routes 
are in operation, connecting Beloit and Madison, 
Milwaukee and Watertown, and places on Lake 
Michigan, and in Illinois, with the more interior 
towns and villages of Wisconsin. 

Milwaukee.— Hotels -.—Newhall House. 

Routes. From Chicago take the railroad 85 
miles to Milwaukee, along the western shore of 
Lake Michigan, or the steamers on the lake 
which arrive daily. 

Milwaukee, the most populous city in Wis- 
consin, is built at the mouth of the Milwaukee 
River, on the western shore of Lake Michigan, 
90 miles from Chicago, and 100 miles east of Ma- 
dison. The town Ues upon the river flats, and 
upon the bluffs which overlook the lake. Tlie 
peculiar color of the "Milwaukee brick," of 
"which many of the buildings are made, gives the 
city a very peculiar and pretty air. These famous 
bricks, which are much in fashion now all over 
the country, have a delicate cream or straw tint. 
In growth, this city of promise has kept pace 
with the rapid progress characteristic of the re- 
gion. It was settled in 1835, incorporated in 
1846, had a population in 1840, of 1,751 ; in 1S50, 
of 20,061 ; and in 1860, more than 45,000. It has 
increased greatly since, and, as the outlet of a 
large and rich country, will long continue to ex- 
tend its borders. Several hundred miles of plank 
road once united the city with the interior, but 
now their office is better performed by good lines 
of railw.ay. There are 40 or 50 churches of va- 
rious denominations here, and numerous excel- 
lent literary institutions and schools. 

Hadison.— Hotels :— Capitol House. 



Routes, See Chicago and Milwaukee for 
routes from New York, Boston, etc. Thence 
by rail. 

The town, in the centre of a broad valley en- 
closed by high grounds, occupies an isthmus be- 
tween the Third and Fourth (Mcndota) Lake. 
Mendota or Fourth Lake upon the upper side of 
the city, is about 6 miles by 4 miles in area. The 
Third Lake is somewhat smaller ; both are ex- 
ceedingly picturesque waters, deep enough for 
steamboat navigation. 

There was no building except a solitary log 
cabin, upon the site of Madison, when it was se- 
lected in 1836 for the Capital of the State ; yet 
in 18()9 the popiilation had reached nearly 7,000. 
The streets of this beautiful city of the wilder- 
ness, drop down pleasantly towards the shores 
of the surrounding lakes. " Madison," saj's a 
writer of the landscape here, " perhaps combines 
and overlooks more charming and diversified 
scenery than any other town in the West, or 
than any other State Capital in the Union. Its 
high lakes, fresh groves, ripphng rivulets, shady 
dales, and flowery meadow lawns, are commin- 
gled in greater profusion, and disposed in more 
picturesque order than we have ever elsewhere 
beheld." 

The Capitol, which has cost $150,000, is a lime 
stone edifice, in a public park 70 feet above the 
level of the lakes. The University of Wis- 
consin, founded in 1849, occupies an eminence a 
mile west of the Capitol, and 125 feet above the 
lakes. The State Historical Society and the 
State Lunatic Asylum are located here. 

Kenosha.— Hotels '.—Oity Hotel. 

Kenosha is upon Lake Michigan, just below 
Racine, 55 miles above Chicago (by railroad or 
by water), and 35 miles below Milwaukee. 

Janesville.— Hotels :— The Hyatt House. 

Janesville, a populous and important city, 
steadily increasing in extent .and population, is 
upon the Rock River, 45 miles below Madison. 
A branch of the railway between Milwaukee 
ajnd Madison, extends to Janesville ; junction, at 
Milton. 

Waukesha, once Prairieville, is upon the 
Milwaukee and Mississippi railway, 20 miles 
from Milwaukee and 78 from Madison. It is 
upon Pishtuka or Fox River, .at the extremity 
of a pine prairie. Carroll College, founded 
1846, is here. 

Platteville, the centre of an extensive lead 
region, is about 22 miles north of Galena, Illi- 
nois, and 78 from Madison. See route to Go- 
lena. 



246 



•WISCONSIN. — MINISTESOTA. 



Fond du !Lac. — Hotels : — Lewes House. 

Fond du Lac is a pro?peroiT8 and populous 
town, at the soutli end of Winnebago Lake, 72 
miles from Milwauliee and 90 miles from Madi- 
son, reached by railway from Milwaukee or 
from Chicatfo. Fond du Lao is remarkable, 
among other things, for its Artesian Wells, 
which are so numerous that nearly every house- 
hold has its own. They vary in depth from 90 
to 130 feet. 

Beloit. — Hotels : — Bushnell House. 

Beloit is upon the southern boundary of the 
State, on the lino of railway from Chicago to 
Madison and to Dubuque, 98 miles from Chica- 
go and 50 miles from Madison. From Milwau- 
kee, by railway, 78 miles. Beloit is built on a 
beautiful plain, on the banks of Rock River. It 
is famous for elegant churches and fine streets. 
The Beloit College is located here. 

Watertown is upon the Milwaukee and 
Watertown railway, 45 miles from Milwaukee. 

Green Bay is at the mouth of the Neenah or 
Fox River, at the head of Green Bay. A rail- 
way from Milwaukee via Fond du Lac, is in jiro- 
cess of building. Distance from Milwaukee, 114 
miles ; from Madison, 120 miles. The largest 
steamers of Lake Michigan stop here. The older 



part of Green Bay was formerly called Navarino. 
Fort Howard and ViUage is across the river. 

Portage City is at the head of navigation 
on the Wisconsin River. Steamboats ply occa- 
sionally between this place and Galena, lUinois. 
It is upon the route of the La Crosse Railway, 
95 miles from Milwaukee. The site of Portage 
City is at the famous Winnebago Portage, and 
at Old Fort Winnebago. 

Sh.eTooyg'aii is at the entrance of Sheboygan 
River into Lake Michigan, 62 miles above Mil- 
waukee. 

Manitowoc is upon Lake Michigan, above 
Sheboygan, 93 miles from Milwaukee. 

Hacine — Hotels : — Co7igress Hall. 

Racine is a beautiful city, situated on the 
west shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
Root River, twenty-tive miles south iby east of 
Milwaukee, and seventy miles north of Chicago. 
It is the second city of the State in population 
and commerce, and has one of the best harbors 
on the Lake, formed by the mouth of the river, 
which admits vessels drawing over twelve feet 
of water. It has a population of 12,000 inhabit- 
ants, and rapidly increasing. The public scliools 
are .among the best in the State. Over $80,000 
have been expended bj' the citizens in the con- 
struction of a harbor ; $30,000 for school build- 
ings, and 5350,000 for railways. 



MINNESOTA. 

Romantic stories of the wonders of the land, which now forms the new State of Minnesota, 
were told two centuries ago by the zealous French missionaries, who had even at that remote 
period, pushed their adventures thither ; still, only a very few years have elapsed, since emigra- 
tion has earnestly set that way, calling up populous towns and cultivated farms along the rivers 
and valleys, before occupied by the canoe and the wigwam of the savage alone. 

The magical development of Minnesota is in keeping with that marvellous spirit of progress bo 
characteristic of the great Western sections of the United States. So rapid is this growth, and on 
Buoh a sure and enlightened basis, that the church and the school-house spring up in the wilder- 
ness before there are inhabitants to occupy them. In Minnesota, one of the earliest foundations 
was that of a Historical Society, established almost before the history of the country had begun 1 



Area. Minnesota, before Its organization as a 
State, included within its limits a vast region, 
extending from the Mississippi and the St. Croix 
Rivers, and from Lake Superior on the east, to 
the Missouri and the White-Earth Rivers on 
the west, a distance of more than 400 miles ; and 
from the Iowa line on the south, to the British 
borders on the north — also 400 miles apart. 

Surface and Soil.—" Almost the whole of 



this vast region," says Mr. Bond in his interest- 
ing volume about Minnesota and its resources, 
" is a line rolling prairie of rich soil, a sandy 
loam adapted to the short summers of -the cli- 
mate, and which produces bounteously. The 
surface of the country, excepting the Missouri 
plains, is interspersed with numerous beautiful 
lakes of fresh water— all abounding in the finest 
fish, and their banks covered with a rich growth 



MINNESOTA. 



247 



of •woodland. The land is about equally divided 
between oak openings and prairies, the whole 
•well ■watered by numerous streams navigable for 
steamers. " 

Forest Liands and Elvers.— In the east- 
ern part, on the head waters of the Mississippi, 
Rum River, and the St. Croix, are extensive pine 
and liardwood forests, apparently inexhaustible 
for centuries ; while from the mouth of Crow- 
wing River, a tributary of the Mississippi, an 
extensive forest of hard wood timber, fifty miles 
la width, extends south-westerly into the coun- 
try watered by the Blue-Earth River, a tributary 
of the Minnesota River, emptying into it 150 
miles above its mouth. The latter stream, rising 
near Lac Traverse, flows south-easterly a dis- 
tance of 450 miles, and empties into the Missis- 
sippi at Fort Snelling, seven miles above St. 
Paul, and the same distance below St. Anthony. 
This is one of the finest streams in the valley 
of the Mississippi, and the country through 
■which it flows is not excelled for salubrity of 
climate and fertility of soil by any part of the 
United States. In a good stage of water, steam- 
boats can ascend it almost to its source. A 
portage of a mile or two then connects it from 
Big-Stone Lake with Lae Traverse; and the out- 
let of the latter, the Sioux Wood River (.all of 
which arc thirtji^ miles in length), with the 
famous Sed Eiver of the North. This stream 
is navigable at all seasons for steamboats from 
the Bois de Sioux to Pembina, on the British 
line — to Selkirk settlements, 100 miles beyond — 
and even to Lake Winnipeg. The whole trade 
of these extensive regions will eventually seek 
this channel to a market, following down the 
Minnesota to the Mississippi at St. Paul, and 
thence to the States below. A railroad connec- 
tion will eventually be made from the mouth of 
the Bois de Sioux to Fond du Lac ; also from the 
same point to St. Anthony and St. Paul via 
Bank rapids and the Mississippi. Another ■will 
connect the same point with Lac qui Parle, on 
account of the portage at Big-Stone Lake ; thence 
down to the mouth of Blue-Earth ; thence south- 
easterly through Iowa to some point, say Prai- 
rie^u Chien or Dubuque, on the Lower Missis- 
sippi. 

The only interruption to the navigation of the 
Lower Minnesota River in dry seasons, is -what 
are called the " Rapids," some 40 miles above its 
mouth. This is a ledge of sandstone rock, ex- 
tending across the stream, and will soon be re- 
moved. 

The Mississippi above St. Anthony is nav- 
igable an almost indefinite distance to the north ; 
and the steamer "Governor Ramsey" has al- 
ready been running in the trade above the Falls 
for four years, as far as the Sauk Kapids (80 



miles), which, -with the Little Falls (40 miles be- 
yond), are the main obstacles in a navigation of 
over 400 miles from St. Anthony to the Falls of 
the Pokegama. St. Croix Lake and River are 
navigable to the F.alls, GO miles above the junc- 
tion of the lake and Mississippi ; and the St. 
Louis River is navigable from Lake Superior 20 
miles to Fond du Lac. Numerous other streams 
are navigable for light-draught steamers and 
flat-boats from 60 to 100 miles, penetrating into 
the interior to the pineries, and giving easy ac- 
cess into the country in all directions. These 
are the Blue-Earth, Rum, Elk, Sauk, Crow, 
Crow-wing, Vermilion, Cannon, and others. 

On the north-eastern border of the territory is 
Lake Superior, with its valuable fisheries and its 
shores abounding in inexhaustible mines of cop- 
per, coal, iron, etc., besides aflbrding the facility 
of that vast inland sea for immigration and 
commerce. 

The Great Father of Waters, too, the mighty 
Mississippi — after rising in Itasca Lake, in the 
northern portion of the State, flows by a de- 
vious course for some 800 miles through the 
eastern part, and below the mouth of the St. 
Croix forms the dividing line between Minnesota 
and Wisconsin for some 200 more to the Iowa 
line. This mighty river gives the State the 
whole lower valley to the Gulf of Mexico for a 
never-ceasing market for its agricultural pro- 
duce, lumber, and manufactures. 

Various elevated ridges traverse the territory 
of Minnesota, though not of a mountain charac- 
ter. The plateau called the Couteau des 
Prairies, orthe Prairie Heights, isone of these 
singular terraces. It extends 200 miles, with a 
breadth varying from 20 to 40 miles. The aver- 
age elevation of this lofty plain is some 1,500 
feet, and in some parts it rises nearly 2,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. In the north it is 
about 900 feet above the neighboring waters of 
Big-Stone Lake. There is another range of 
wooded heights, reaching 100 miles or more, 
called the " Coteau du Grand Bois." Then there 
are the " Hauteurs de Terre," which extend 
some 300 miles. These last-mentioned ridges 
form the dividing line of the rivers, which flow 
to Hudson's Bay on one side and to the Missis- 
sippi and Lake Superior on the other. 

Tlie Lakes of Minnesota are number- 
less and of extreme beauty. Sometimes there 
are little ponds a mile in circumference, and 
ag.ain, great waters 40 or 50 miles in extent. 
Their shores are charmingly wooded, and fre- 
quently present fine pictures of cliff' and head- 
land. The waters are pure and transparent, and 
are filled with whiteflsh, trout, pike, pickerel, 
sucker, perch, and other finny inhabitants. Tho 
largest of these lakea are the Minnetonka, the Osa- 



24S 



MINTSTESOTA. 



kis, WTiite Bear, Kandiyolii, Otter-tail, and Mill 
Lac. The Territory of Minnesota has, in its cur- 
tailment to State, limits, lost many soble natural 
points, among them Devil's Lake, which now lies 
in Dakotah. 

Lake Pepin, a beautiful expansion of the Missis- 
sippi, is in this region. On the east bank is the 
famous Maiden's Eock, 400 feet high ; and near the 
northern end, the La Grange Mountaia rises in a 
bold headland, 230 feet above the water. 

The Palls of St. Anthony.— Hotels :— 

The Wiiisluw House. 

RorrTES.— From the Atlantic cities to Chicago, 
nnd thence. to La Crosse or Dubuque, or Rock 
Island, by rail ; thence by steamer on the Missis- 
sippi River. 

The Falls of St. Anthony, in the Mississippi, 
lie within the territory of Minnesota, 8 miles 
from St. Paul. The river at this pass is divided 
by an island, as at Niag.ara, where it rushes over a 
bold and broad ledge of limestone. 

" I visited the Falls of St. Anthony," said the 
Rev. Mr. Barnes, in a sermon of five years ago. 
" I know not how other men feci when standing 
there, nor how men will feel a century hence, 
when standing there— then, not in the west, but 
almost in the centre of our great nation. But 
when I stood there, and reflected on the distance 
between that and the place of my birth and my 
home ; on the prairies over which I had passed ; 
and the stream — the ' Father "of Rivers' — up 
■which I had s.ailed some 500 miles, into a new 
and unsettled land — where the children of the 
forest still live and roam — I had views of the 
greatness of my country, such as I ha%-e never 
had in the crowded capitals and the smiling vil- 
lages of the East. Far in the distance did they 
then seem to be, and there c.ame over the soul 
the idea of greatness and vastness, which no 
figures, no description, had ever conveyed to my 
mind. To an inexperienced traveller, too, how 
strange is the appearance of all that laud I 
Those boundless prairies seem as if they had 
been cleared by tlie patient labor of another 
race of men, removing all the forests, and roots, 
and stumps, and brambles, and smoothing them 
down as if with mighty rollers, and sowing them 
with grass and flowers ; a race which then passed 
awajf, having built no houses of their own, and 
made no fences, and set out no trees, and estab- 
lished no land-marks, to lay the foundation of 
any future claim. The mounds, which you here 
and there see, look, indeed, as if a portion of 
them had died and had been buried there ; but 
those mounds and those boundless fields had 
been forsaken together. You ascend the Missis- 
sippi amid scenery unsurpassed in beauty proba- 



bly in the world. You Bee the •waters tnaking 
their way along an interval of from two to four 
miles in width, between bluffs of from 1 to 500 
feet in height. Now the river makes its way 
along the eastern range of bluft's, and now the 
western, and now in the centre, and now it 
divides itself into numerous channels, forming 
thousands of beautiful islands, covered with long 
grass ready for the scythe of the mow-er. Those 
blufls, rounded with taste and skill, such as could 
be imitated by no art of man, and set out with 
trees here and there, gracefully arranged like 
orchards, seem to have been sown with grain to 
the summit, and are clothed with beautiful 
green. You look out instinctively for the house 
and barn; for flocks and herds; for men, and 
women, and children ; but they are not there. 
A race that is gone seems to have cultivated 
those fields, and then to have silently disap- 
peared — leaving them for the first man that 
should come froni the older parts of our own 
country, or from foreign lands, to take possession 
of them. It is only by a process of reflection 
that you are convinced th.it it is not so. But it 
is not the work of man. It is God who has done 
it, when there was no man there save the wan- 
dering savage, alike ignorant and unconcerned 
as to the design of the great processes in the land 
where he roamed — God who did all this, that ho 
might prepare it for the abode of a civUized and 
Christian people." 

rountain Cave is a remarkable spot two 
or three miles above St. Paul. A passage-way, 
25 feet high, and nearly as wide, leads into a 
cavern of white sandstone, which has been pene- 
trated for 1000 feet ; first by a gallery 150 feet in 
length and 20 feet broad, and afterwards through 
narrow passes. A rivulet follows the course of 
this cave. 

Port Snelling' is 5 miles from St. Paul, at 
the confluence of the Minnesota, or St. Peter's, 
and Mississippi Rivers, on the west side of the 
Mississippi. The buildings of the g.arrison aro 
upon a high blulf, probably 200 feet above the 
level of the water in the rivers, and which 
stretches to the north and west in a gently undu- 
lating and very fertile prairie, interspersed hero 
and there wnth groves of heavy timber. The 
steamboat landing of Fort Snelling is directly 
opposite the mouth of the Minnesota, from which 
a low island extends about two and a half miles 
down the Mississippi. 

Mendota, which lies about half a mile below 
the mouth of the Minnesota, has been for many 
years a trading post of the American Fur Com- 
pany, and is still a depot of goods and provisions 
for the Bupplj' of the traders, who, at this time, 
have penetrated much farther into the Indian 
country. But it has, till lately, been included ia 



MINKESOTA. 



240 



the military reserve of Fort Snclling. It has not 
attained that degree of prosperity so romarljable 
in the villages of St. Paul and St. Antliouy, and 
■which its far more favorable position might justly 
Lave secured for it. 

Pilot Knob. " From this summit, which 
lies back of Mendota," says Mr. Bond, whom we 
just quoted, "a view may be obtained of the 
surrounding country as far as the eye can grasp, 
aflbrding to the spectator a sight of one of the 
most charming natural pictures to be found in 
this territory, so justly celebrated for scenic 
beauty. The view describes a circle of eight or 
nine miles, a grand spectacle of rolling prairie, 
extended plain and groves, the valley of the Min- 
nesota with its meandering stream, a bird's-eye 
view of Fort Snelling, Lake Harriet in the dis- 
tance — the town of St. Anthony just visible 
through the nooks of the intervening groves — 
and St. Paul, looking like a city set upon a hill, 
its buildings and spires distinctly visible, and 
presenting in appearance the distant view of a 
city containing a population of one hundred 
thousand human beings." 

The St. Croix Falls, or Rapids, are in the 
St. Oroix River, about 30 miles from its entrance 
into the Mississippi below St. Paul. The St. 
Croix continues the boundary line between Wis- 
consin and Minnesota, in the upper half of the 
territory, formed below by the waters of the 
Mississippi. The Falls in the St. Croix have a 
descent of 50 feet in 300 yards. The perpendicu- 
lar walls of trap rock, between which the waters 
make their boisterous way, is a scene of remark- 
able picturesque interest. This wild pass is 
about half a mile below the Rapids. It is called 
the Dalles of the St. Croix. 

Th.e Sioux Rapids, in the Sioux River, is 
another striking point in the varied landscape 
of this region. The pass is through a grand 
quartz formation. The descent of the waters is 
100 feet in 400 yards. There are three perpen- 
dicular falls of from 10 to 20 feet. 

The Falls of the St. Louis Kiver are 
a series of rapids extending 16 miles, the waters 
making, in that distance, a descent of 320 feet. 
These cataracts terminate about 20 miles from 
the mouth of the river. 

In our enum.eration of the landscape features 
and attractions of Minnesota, we have included 
only a few of the leading and most accessible 
scenes. There are, besides, the forest-hidden, 
laughing waters of Minnehaha, immortalized in 
the sweet song of Hiawatha, and a thousand 
cascades of beauty ; gentle lakes and fertile 
flower-strewn prairies. 

The Sportsman here will find plenty to 
do, whether it be with his gun in the woods, or 
with his line by the marge of the graceful wa- 
11* 



ters. Immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk, ante- 
lope, and other noble denizens of the forest, still 
roam over the western plains, and the moose and 
the grizzly bear, the otter and the wolf, may aU 
yet be found in Minnesota. 

St. Paul. — Hotels: — The Wtnsloic House; 
the fuller House; spacious and elegant estab- 
lishments. 

Routes. — Galena and Chicago Railway from 
Chicago to the Mississippi, and thence by steam- 
er ; or the Chicago, St. Paul, and Fond du Lao 
Railway from Chicago to Prairie du Chien, on 
the Mississippi ; thence by steamer in summer, 
and stages in winter. The La Crosse Railway, 
from Milwaukee, is now in operation to the Mis- 
sissippi at La Crosse, yet higher up. 

This flourishing city of the Far "West, tho 
capital of Minnesota, is graphically described as 
perched on a high bluft" overlooking the Missis- 
sii^pi, at the head of its navigable waters, 2070 
miles from its mouth. " It is surrounded in the 
rear by a semi-circular plateau, elevated about 
40 feet above the town, of easy grade, and com- 
manding a magnificent view of the river above 
and below. Nature never planned a spot better 
adapted to build up a showy and delightful dis- 
play of architecture and gardening than that 
natural terrace of hills. The town has sprang 
up like Minerva, full armed from the head of 
Jupiter, and now contains 10,401 inhabitants ; its 
whole history of seven years forming an instance 
of Western enterprise and determined energy 
and resolution, hitherto unsurpassed in the story 
of any frontier settlement. The main street is 
fully a mile in length, with buildings running 
from shanties to five-story bricks. Its ten 
churches, with their lofty spires, show that the 
aspirations of the people of St. Paul are upward, 
and, though in the far-otF West, they make the 
welkin ring. A travelling fi-iend observed that 
he had, in Constantinople, where they have five 
Sabbaths a week, heard the Turkish SaUms, the 
Catholic and Protestant, the Greek, Armenian, 
and Jew, each sending forth their summons for 
praj-er to the faithful ; but, measuring its reli- 
gion by its bell-ringing, St. Paul far exceeds the 
Oriental capital." 

The Falls of St. Anthony, Fort Snelling, and 
other points of interest to the tourist, are in the 
immedi.ate vicinity of St. Paul. See mention 
of these places in preceding pages of Minnesota. 

Stillwater.— Hotels :— 

Stillwater, upon the west bank of Lake St. 
Croix, 20 miles from St. Paul, was first settled 
in 1843, and is rapidly becoming a populous an(l 



250 



MINNESOTA. — OALIFOEEriA. 



important place. To be justly informed of the 
number of people in these cities and villages of 
the West, would requii-e a monthly or -weekly 
census. 

St. Anthony.— Hotels :— The Winslow 
House, 

St. Anthony is a thriving town on the left bank 
of the Mississippi, at the famous Falls of St. 
Anthony, 8 miles above St. Paul (see St. Paul, and 
the Falls of St. Anthony in preceding pages.) 
The village is situated upon a lofty terrace over- 
looking the Fall». Ita position at the head of 



navigation on the Father of "Waters, is of im- 
mense commercial consideration, and the Falls 
afford incalculable water power for manufactures. 
This is the seat of the University of Minnesota. 
Wabasha is upon the Mississippi, opposite 
the mouth of the Chippewa river. It is 90 miles 
below St. Paul. 

"Winona, Red Wing, Paribault, Roch- 
ester, Minneapolis, and St. Cloud, are 
large and growing towns, already containing popu- 
lations varying from two to five thousand souls, 
and promising to become the most important 
places in the State, as some of them, indeed, 
already are 



CALIFORNIA. 



TnE HisTORT OF California must be of great interest to the traveller, especially as he survej'-s 
the astonishing progress which has been made within the last ten years. 

The peninsula of Lower California was discovered by the expeditions of Cortez in 1534-5. 

Upper California was seen by Cabrillo in 1542. Sir Francis Drake visited the coast and discovered 
Jack's Harbor, on the bay of Sir Francis Drake, a few miles to the northward of the bay of San 
Francisco, in 1579. 

In 1769 the bay of San Francisco was discovered by the early Spanish missionaries, who estab- 
lished some 18 missions in the country ; these continued to flourish iintil after the Mexican Revo- 
lution in 1822, falling into decay under the new government. 

Capt. John Sutter established himself near the present site of Sacramento City in 1839. 

In 1846 the war broke out between the United States and Mexico, which resulted in the con- 
quest and purchase of California by the United States. 

Gold was discovered in January, 1848, by James W. Marshall, in the employ of Capt. Sutter, 
at Sutter's Mill, on the South Fork of the American river, at the present town of Coloma. 

From this date the unprecedented progress of the country commenced. 

The State of California extends along the Pacific coast nearly seven hundred and fifty miles, 
from south-east to north-west, with an average breadth from east to west of two hundred and fifty 
miles, containing an area of 187,500 miles, or nearly twice the size of Great Britain. The whole 
country naturally falls into three great divisions : 

First, The great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, with all their lateral valleys ; 
all of whose waters meet in the bay of San Francisco, passing through the Golden Gate to the 
Pacific Ocean. 

Second, The portions of the coast range north and south of the bay of San Francisco, where the 
country is drained by streams falling directly into the Pacific, as the Klamath, Eel River, Russian 
River, the Salinas, San Pedro, and San Bernardino, with others of lesser magnitude. 

Third, The country east of the Sierra Kevada Chain, the waters of which fall into the great 
basin, having no outlet to the ocean. 

The ranges of mountains comprise the Sierra Kevada, which divides the State on the east from 
the Great Basin, and the Coast Range on the West. 

Between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, lies the extensive country of the First Divi- 
sion, a valley of some 500 miles in length, with an average breadth of 75 miles, with a rich soil and 
warm climate, producing all the fruits of the warm region with the products of the more temper- 



OALIFOENIA. 



251 



ate climes. The lateral valleys, -with an elevation of from 1,000 to 5,000 feet atove the level of the 
sea, producing the more hardy fruits and grains common to the more northern States of the Union. 

A helt of gigantic timber, consisting of pines, firs, cedars, oaks, &c., &c., extends the entire 
length of the Sierra Nevada range, aft'ording a supply of wood that can never be exhausted. 

The mining region also stretches along this range, extending on the north into the Coast Moun- 
tains, passing into Oregon witli an average breadth of 40 or 50 miles, at some points extending 
from the valley to near the summit of the Sierra, a distance of 100 miles in breadth. 

Of the Second Division, located near the coast. This portion of California contains thousands 
of beautiful valleys, some of which are very extensive, as that of the Salinas, whose outlet is at the 
bay of Monterej' and the country adjoining Los Angelos and San Diego. This portion has a cooler 
climate than the lower valleys of the First Division, owing to their proximity to the sea. 

Every variety of product, from the orange and other fruits of the warm region at Los Angelos, 
to the more temperate clime and products of Humboldt Bay and Trinity River at the north. Gold 
is also found, and the richest quicksilver mines in the world. Oaks and gigantic red woods afford 
fine lumber. 

Of the Third Division, the country east of the Sierra Nevada, but little is known, especially to 
the south-east, yet many fine valleys occur, as that of Carson's Valley, which now contains quite a 
population. Gold also is found along the eastern slope of the Sierra. 

These, then, are the general features of the country. Much more might be said concerning the 
variety of climate incident to the location, the different natural productions, the mines of gold, 
quicksilver, coal, and iron, which are being daily discovered, with the many advantages of soil 
and climate adapted to grazing and agricultural purposes. 



Voyage from New York to San Francisco. 

The great route from New York to San Fran- 
cisco is by the fine steanrships continually leaving 
New York for Aspinwall ; thence across the 
Isthmus, by the railway, to Panama, on the Pa- 
cific side, and from Panama by other steamers 
to California. The routes overland are becom- 
ing, by dint of travel, numerous and reasonably 
easy and safe. Continuous lines of railway will 
bear the tourist or the emigrant with rapidity 
from the Atlantic cities to St. Joseph, on the 
verge of civilization westward. From St. Joseph, 
the great mail sets out for Salt Lake City, so the 
Pike's Peak Express and the new Pony Exjiress, 
which makes the journey in eight days. 

Steamei'S ply during the entire simimer season 
on the Missouri River, from St. Louis to West- 
port, Leavenworth City, Atcheson, or other 
towns above. The route from these points is the 
great track over which so manj' thousands have 
travelled within the past few years. 

Emigrants starting from the extreme south- 
west travel the southern road, through Texas, 
along the Gtilf coast to Powder Horn, on Mata- 
gorda Bay, reached by steamers from New Or- 
leans. Bitt to follow the great ocean route : — 

Leaving New York on the 5th or 20th, we are 
soon upon the broad Atlantic. Crossing the 
Gulf Stream in about the latitude of Cape Hat- 
teras, we sometimes catch a glimpse of the low, 



coral islands of the Bahamas. Five or six days 
bring us to the eastern extremity of Cuba, whose 
highlands, with those of the more distant moun- 
tains of San Domingo, look beautiful in the 
warm tropic haze as we pass between them. 
Soon after, the Blue Mountains of Jamaica loom 
up in the distance to our right — the last land 
seen until we arrive at Aspinwall, the Atlantic 
terminus of the Isthmus Railroad, to which we 
come, after a voyage of eight or ten days from 
New York. 

Aspinwall.— Hotels:— City Hotel. 

Aspinwall is situated upon the Island of Man- 
zanilla, at the north-east entrance to Navy Bay, 
and owes its importance, in fact, its existence, 
to the railroad. As it lies liut a few inches above 
the waters of the sea, it is a perfect marsh, and 
is very unhealthj^ The population consists of 
the employes of the railroad and steamers, to- 
gether with a motley class of Jamaica negroes. 
There is nothing of interest in the place, and the 
traveller is glad to take liis seat in the cars for 
Panama, leaving behind him a place with a popu- 
lation upon whose faces disease appears in its 
most pallid form. 

For several miles the road passes through a 
deep marsh, reaching Gatun, on the Chagres 
River. Leaving the river a mile or two to the 
right, we traverse a dense tropical forest, with. 



252 



C^VXirOENIA. 



occasional clearings, and passing a few native 
huts, arrive at Barbacoas, crossing tlie Chagres 
River, upon a high -noodeu bridge. Beyond, 
the Cierro Gigaiito, the higlicst point upon the 
Istlimus, is seen on our right, from whoso sum- 
mit Balljoa discovered the waters of the Pacific 
Ocean. Moving on, we get occasional views of 
tlie river, gleaming amid the rich verdure of 
gigantic trees and overhanging vines. Passing 
the little hamlet of Matachin, in seven mUes we 
reach tlie summit, which is 250 feet above the 
tide ievel of the Pacific. 

Prom tliis point we descend rapidly, a distance 
of 11 miles, shooting through the dense forests, 
and gliding over the level savannas, until, at last, 
wo catch a gleam of the Pacific Ocean, and the 
spires of Panama. 

Previous to the completion of the railroad, the 
steamers touclied at Chagres, at which place the 
travel up the Chagres River was performed in 
native boats to Gorgona or Crucas, thence, hy 
animals, to Panama ; this generally occupied 
three or four days, and was attended with much 
exposure and discomfort, which verj' often re- 
sulted in an attacli of the Isthmus fever, so fatal 
in its consequences. 

In 1850, the survey of the railroad was com- 
menced, under the superintendence of the well- 
known traveller, the late John L. Stephens. 

la July, 1852, 23i- miles of the road were com- 
pleted, from Aspinwall to Barbacoas, on the 
Chagres River, and opened for travel. From 
that date Chagres sunk into utter neglect, as all 
the travel was diverted to Aspinwall, passing up 
the river from Barbacoas. December, 1854, saw 
the road completed to Culebra, on the summit. 
Panama was reached from the latter place by 
animals. 

It was not until January 27th, 1855, that the 
first locomotive passed over the entire road, 
from ocean to ocean, a distance of 49 miles. 

Nearly five years were thus consumed in the 
completion of this extraordinary American en- 
terprise. 

The cost of the road had been immense — some 
Bis millions of dollars, at the lowest estimate ; 
while the sacrifice of life has been enormous. 

The Isthmus aflbrded scarcely a material for 
its construction ; not even food for the laborers. 
Every thing had to be imported from the United 
States or from Europe. A primeval forest was 
cut through, dense jungles were opened, deadly 
swamps were crossed, deep cuts were made, 
rivers spanned by bridges, whose timber was 
brought from afar ; and, more than all, the pes- 
tilential climate swept thousands upon thousands 
into their graves ere the oceans were united. 

But, to resume our travel — 

As the small steamer is lying at the terminus 



of the railroad to convey the California passen- 
gers on board the Pacific steamer, which is wait- 
ing for us at the Island of Perico, some two 
miles distant, we shall not have an opportunity 
of visiting the City of Panama. 

Yet we obtain a general view as we pass upon 
our transit to the steamer, its old towers and 
ramparts gleaming in the sun, overgrown with 
rank vegetation, presenting a time-worn and 
venerable appearance, finely relieved by the 
back-ground of hills, clothed in the richest 
green. 

Panama.— Hotels •.— Aspinwall House. 

The City of Panama contains many objects of 
interest ; but, owing to the present arrange- 
ments, travellers, en route for California, have 
no opportunity of visiting or remaining here, un- 
less they should lay over one steamer— a delay 
that might be fatal to the health, as the climate 
is usually pernicious to a northern constitution. 

The Pacific Voyage. On arriving at the 
steamer, we are soon under way for San Fran- 
cisco, and, steering south, we pass the beautiful 
Islands of Toboga and Toboquilla, which are 12 
miles from the city. Soon after, we pass the 
lovely Islands of Otoque and Bana, while, away 
to the south-east, a glimpse of the Pearl Island 
groups is obtained. 

The next mornmg or evening finds us steam- 
ing past the Island of Quibo, with a distant view 
of the Mountains of the Isthmus. 

We find the arrangements perfect on board 
the Mail Line, and our days pass pleasantly as 
we steam along the calm blue waters of the Pa- 
cific.' 

On the seventh day from Panama, we get a 
grand view of the Mountains of Mexico, and 
soon enter the fine harbor of Acapulco. Here 
the steamer takes in a supply of coal, which 
afibrds the stranger time to go on shore and take 
a look at this interesting place. 

The Harbor of Acapulco is one of tho 
most perfect in the world, protected on all sides 
by mountains, which rise almost from the wa- 
ter's edge. 

We gaze with delight upon the fine groves of 
cocoas and palms, and look with interest upon 
the faded glories of this once important place. 
The motley population of Mexicans observed in 
the streets, which are alive with venders of all 
sorts of fruits and curiosities, is a study of itself, 
seen nowhere save in a Spanish city. 

Resuming our voyage, we soon lose sight of 
the high mountain range of Mexico, the last land 
seen untU, on the fourth day, we appi-oach the 
southern extremity of Lower Califorciaj Capo 
St. Lucas. 



OALIFOENIA. 



253 



Fi'om fhis point the weather sndclenly becomes 
cold ; and as we approach the port of our desti- 
nation thicli clothing comes into requisition. As 
we coast northward we sometimes see land, per- 
haps one of the barren islands off the coast of 
Lower California ; but, as the atmosphere along 
the coast is generally very hazy, especially during 
the summer time, we find but little of interest 
until we approach the Golden Gate, the entrance 
to the noble Bay of San Francisco. 

Upon the 14th day from Panama, or 22 or 24 
daj^s from New York, we see the mountains of 
the coast range, among which Tamul Pise stands 
pre-eminent, with Monte Diabolo in the distance, 
looming up from the waters ; and soon after we 
near Point Lobos, with Point Boneta on our left, 
entering the Golden Gate ; Port Point is soon 
abreast, and we come into the Bay of San Fran- 
cisco. Two miles further on we pass the Presidio, 
and catch a distant view of the western and nor- 
thern portion of the metropolis of the Pacific. To 
om- left, the Alcatraz Eock rises from the surface 
of the bay, bristling with cannon, and surmounted 
by a lighthouse ; while beyond, Angel Island rises 
to the height of 900 feet. 

Doubling Telegraph Hill, the city bursts upon 
our vision, rising picturesquely from the bay, 
which extends southward, like a vast inland sea. 

We are soon along side of the wharf, and thus 
ends our pleasant voyage of 6,000 miles from New 
York. 

San Francisco. — Hotels : — Among the prin- 
cipal Hotels, we may mention the Oriental, cor- 
ner of Battery and Bush streets ; Metropolitan, 
Bush and Sansome streets ; International, Jack- 
son street ; Ainerican Exchange, Sansome street ; 
RaAlroad House; Tremont Bouse. 

San Francisco, the principal city and seaport 
of the Pacific coast, is situated upon the Bay of 
San Francisco, near its entrance to the sea, and 
lies in lat. 8T° 48' north, long. 122° 30' west, from 
Greenwich. 

The Mission was founded and the Presidio es- 
tablished in 1776. The first house was erected by 
Capt. Richardson, in 1835,- but up to January, 1847, 
bore the name of Yerha Buena. 

At the time gold was discovered, in January, 
1843, it contained but 200 buildings, of all kinds, 
and a population of 800 souls. 

In the year 1860 the city covered an area of 8 or 
9 square miles, with a population of some 65,000. 

Among the principal buildings are the City Hall, 
fronting upon the Plaza or Portsmouth Square ; the 
U. S. Custom House and Post Office, corner of 
Washington and Battery streets ; the U. S. Marine 
Hospital, Eincon Point; Montgomery Block ; Ste- 
venson''s and Tucker's Building, corner of Mont- 



gomery and California streets, and many fine struc- 
tures of lesser note, as the Custom House Block, 
corner of Sansome and Sacramento streets ; Mer- 
cantile Library Building, corner of Bush and Mont- 
gomery streets; U. S. District Court Building, 
corner of Washington and Battery streets ; Masonic 
Hall, junction of Post, Market, and Montgomery 
streets ; Odd Fellow''s Hall, corner of Bush and 
Kearney streets, and others that would compare 
favorably vrtth any buildings to be found in the 
large Eastern cities. 

The principal churches are : First Presbyterian 
Church, Stockton Street, between Clay and Wash- 
ington ; Calvary Presbyterian Church, Bush Street, 
between Montgomery and Sansome ; First Baptist 
Church, Washington Street, between Dupont and 
Stockton ; First Congregational Church, corner of 
Dupont and California streets ; Grace Church, cor- 
ner of Stockton and California streets ; Church of 
the Advent, Mission Street, below Second ; First 
Unitarian Church, Stockton Street, between Clay 
and Sacramento; M. E. Church, North, Powell 
Street, between Washington and Jackson; St. 
Mary's Cathedral, comer of Dupont and California 
streets; St. Francis' Church, Vallejo Street, be- 
tween Dupont and Stockton, and many other fine 
ones of less prominence. 

The places of amusement are : The American 
Theatre, Sansome Street, between Sacramento and 
California streets ; Maguire's Opera House, Wash- 
ington Street, near Montgomery ; Tucker's Acad- 
emy of Music, in Tucker's Building, corner of 
Summer and Montgomery streets ; Piatt's New 
Music Hall, Montgomery Street, near the corner 
of Bush, and many others of less note. 

A visit to the Mission, three miles southwest of 
the city, will interest the stranger. The Market 
Street railroad cars start for that point each half- 
hour in the day. Lines of omnibuses are rimning 
over the plank road to the same place, by a more 
circuitous route, passing through " The Willows," 
a pleasant suburban retreat, on their way. Many 
fine gardens are in the vicinity. The race course 
is a mile beyond. The Protestant Orphan Asylum 
is a fine building half a mile north. The Mission 
itself is an object of much interest. It is an adobe 
building of the old Spanish style, built in 1776. 
Adjoining is the Cemetery, with its well-worn 
paths and capricious monuments. 

A branch of the Market Street railroad runs to 
Hayes Building, which contains the largest dancing 
hall in the city. 

A line of omnibuses also runs to the Presidio, 
which is situated some three miles toward the 
Golden Gate ; a mile further is Fort Point, so call- 
ed from the fortification which protects the en- 
trance to the harbor. Following the shore we pass 
Point Lobos and Seal Eock House, 8 miles, and the 
same distance further reach the Ocean House, sit- 



254 



OAXEFOENIA. 



uated on a little arm of tlie sea. From this point, 
returning to the city, 8 miles distant, the road winds 
through and over the San Bruno Hills, from whose 
peaks — 1,200 feet above the level of the sea — a fine 
view of the Bay on one side, and of the ocean on 
the other, is to be had. 

The view from Telegraph Hill, 290 feet high, at 
the northern extremity of the city, is unsm-passed. 
This view embraces the city, stretching along the 
semi-amphitheatre of hills, and overflowing the 
depressions toward the Presidio on the west, and 
the Mission on the south ; both arms and the en- 
trance to the bay, including the islands of Alcatraz, 
which is fortlfled. Angel Island, over 700 feet in 
height, and Terba Buena ; the Movmtalns of Marin 
County on the north, with the peak of Tamel Pais 
2,600 feet high ; and the Conti-a Costa Eange on the 
east, -with Monte Diablo rising in the back ground 
to a height of 3,T90 feet. 

The summits of Russian and Eincon hills also 
aflbrd fine views. 

A ferry boat connects the city with Oakland 
every hour. Oakland lies across the bay about 8 
miles distant, and contains about 1,500 inhabitants 
and many fine residences. The college of Califor- 
nia, a flourishing institution, is located in Oakland. 

Steamers leave daily for various points on the 
bay — Petaluma, Sonoma, Napa, Suisun, &c., north, 
and for Alviso, connecting with San Jose by stage, 
south — all connecting with stages for the interioi-. 

Visit to the Inteeioe of Caxifoenia and 
ALONG THE Coast, j 

From San Francisco via Sacramento 
to Marysville, up through the valley of the 
Sacramento to the Oregon line ; thence through 
the mining regions of the eastern tributaries of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, including a 
run over the Sierras into Carson Yalley ; returning 
from the Southern Mines I'ia Stockton to San Fran- 
cisco ; thence proceeding via the Overland Mail 
Eoute through San Jose, Visalia, and Los Angeles, 
to the southern part of the State, returning by the 
ocean from San Diego, the most southern port, 
touching at Santa Barbara, Monterey, &c., and 
finally taking a glimpse at the more northern sec- 
tions along the coast, and a voyage to Oregon. 

^j this arrangement all that is of interest can 
be seen, making an almost continuous tour of the 
State, without loss of time, or unnecessary travel 
or expense. 

Many of the distances given are but an approx- 
imation to the exact, and the time and fai-es vary, 
as in other coimtries. 

For the Sacramento Kegion. — Leaving 
Ban Francisco by the 4 o'clock afternoon steamer 
for Sacramento, we proceed northward toward 
Angel Island, in the bay, which we pass on the 



right some 6 miles from the wharf, soon after Red 
Rock Island, and enter the Bay of San I'ablo, 
through the straits of the same name, at a dis- 
tance of about 15 miles fi-om San Francisco. 

The Bay of San Pablo is a large and beautiful 
sheet of water, some 15 miles wide and 20 miles 
long, surrounded by picturesgue ranges of moun- 
tains. The view looking westward is picturesquely 
fine ; to the northward the fertile valleys of Peta- 
luma, Sonoma, and Napa, bounded by the high 
mountains of the Coast Range, bathed in the warm 
summer haze so peculiar to California. 

At the head of Napa Valley warm sulphur 
springs occur, which are a favorite place of resort, 
and offer fine accommodations to the visitor. 
Stages at Sonoma and Petaluma connect with 
Healdsburg, in the Russian River Valley, one of 
the most fertile sections of the State. 

In the vicinity of Mt. Putas, or Geyser Peak, 
about 50 miles north of Petaluma, are the hot 
steam springs called the Geysers. The best means 
of communication is through Healdsburg. The 
picturesque scenery, deep ravines, towering moun- 
tains, and the springs — second only to the far-fam- 
ed Geysers of Iceland — invest this section with an 
Interest unsurpassed. 

Stni to the north the picturesque region of Clear 
Lake amply repays the tourist by its wild beauty 
and the fine hunting and fishing which the sur- 
rounding region and waters afford. 

Resuming our voyage through San Pablo Bay, 
we pass Mai-e Island and Vallejo, where the U. S. 
Government have established a Dry Dock and 
naval station, and soon after enter the Straits of 
Carqninez, which connect the Bay of San Pablo 
with the Bay of Suisun. 

Tlie Straits of Carauinez.— These Straits 
are about 8 miles in length, and generally three- 
fourths of a mile wide. Benicia, the former capi- 
tal of the State, is situated npon the north side, 
near the entrance to Suisun Bay, 30 miles from Sau 
Francisco. Vessels of the largest size can reach 
this point. The steamers of the Pacific Mail 
Steamship line are refitted at this place. Their 
extensive foundry and machine shop is the most 
important building in the place. The head-quar- 
ters of the U. S. Army are also located here. 

The view as we approach Benioia is grand. 
Looking southeast, Monte Diablo, the most re- 
markable peak of the Coast Range, is seen rising to 
the height of 8,790 feet, while the little village of 
Martinez, with its groves of evergreen oaks, sur- 
rounded by hills, is a fine feature in the scene. 

The Bay of Suisun. — We now enter the 
Bay of Suisun, another arm or continuation of the 
great Bay of San Francisco ; here the waters of 
the Sacramento and San Joaquin unite, the former 
coming in from the north, and the latter from the 
south. The growing village of Suisan has be- 



OALIFOEITIA. 



255 



come the outlet of a rich agricultoral region, on 
account of being connected with the north side of 
this bay by means of a navigable slough. 

Sacramento Kiver. — Passing through the 
bay, we soon enter the mouth of the Sacramento 
Eiver, about 45 miles from San Francisco. Much 
of the land adjoining this bay and the Sacramento 
and San Joaquin rivers is marshy, covered with 
tules, a kind of bulrush. Proceeding toward Sac- 
ramento, we pass a low range of hills to the left. 
Further on the banks are low and the country is 
marshy. Beyond, trees occur, and the river pre- 
sents a more beautiful appearance. Sometimes in 
autumn the dry tules are on fire for miles, present- 
ing a magnificent appearance to the passenger on 
the steamer. 

In ten hours we arrive at Sacramento, the capi- 
tal of the State, which is 125 miles from San Fran- 
cisco. 

Sacramento. — Hotels : — St. Georffe, comer 
of Fourth and J streets ; Orleans, Second Street, 
between J and K ; What Cheer Souse, corner of 
First and K streets. 

Sacramento is situated at the confluence of the 
Sacramento and American rivers, and contains 
about 14,000 inhabitants, and is the centre of travel 
for the northern mines of California. It contains 
many fine buildings put up in the most substan- 
tial manner; and although it suffered, like San 
Francisco, from fires, in the early period of its 
growth, it has steadily improved, and is now the 
most important city in the interior. 

The State Agricultural Pavilion is one of the 
finest buildings in California. In style it ap- 
proaches the Eomanesque. The main hall is said 
to be the largest clear chamber in the United 
States, being 100 by 120 feet. The central chan- 
delier contains 56 burners. 

The new State House is an ornament to the city 
not only, but a credit to the State. 

Smith's Gardens, in the suburbs of the city, are 
well worthy a visit from the stranger. 

Numerous lines of stages radiate from the city 
in every direction, connecting with all the interior 
mining localities. 

The Sacramento Valley Eailroad, running to 
Folsom, 22 miles east, adds to the facilities for get- 
ting to the interior of Placer and El Dorado coun- 
ties. Other roads are in contemplation, one run- 
ning east to connect Folsom with Placerville, 
another running north from Folsom to Auburn. 

Steamers also leave for points on the Upper 
Sacramento and Feather Eiver, such as Coluso, 
Tehama, and Eed Bluff on the former, and Marys- 
ville and other points on the latter. 

Marysville. — Hotels : — Merchants ; St. 
Uieholas ; Western. 



Proceeding on our journey through the great 
valley of the Sacramento, we reach Marysville by 
stage or steamer, distant by land 44 miles, and by 
river 20 miles further, arriving at the latter place 
by noon. 

Maiysville is next in importance to Sacramento 
among the northern places in the interior, and con- 
tains about 6,000 inhabitants. It is finely located 
near the confluence of the Feather and Yuba riv- 
ers ; accessible at all times by steamer from either 
San Francisco or Sacramento. It commands much 
of the trade with the rich mining distri-cts situated 
upon the Feather and Tuba rivers, with a rich 
agricultural region in the immediate vicinity. 

The city is well built, giving the impression to 
the traveller who sees it for the first time from the 
steamboat landing, of a substantial city mostly 
built of brick. 

There is a fine agricultural region around it, 
mostly comprised in the Tuba and Feather river 
bottoms. Briggs' fruit-ranches, the most extensive 
orchards in the State, perhaps in the world, are 
near this city. 

The Marysville Buttes. From here a fine 
view is obtained of the isolated chain of moun- 
tains known as the Marysville Buttes. They rise 
from the plain of the Sacramento Valley to the 
height of 1,200 feet, and extend for some 8 miles in 
length, forming a remarkable feature in the valley 
of the Sacramento. There are three principal 
peaks and many subordmate ones, and from the 
central, elevated, broken, rocky mass, there run 
off spurs in all directions, forming valleys between 
them. It is about 80 miles around the Buttes. 
The view from the summit, which is easily acces- 
sible, is superb. 

Daily lines of stages leave Marysville for all the 
minmg localities to the north and east. 

Oroville. — Hotels : — St. Nicholas; Interna- 
tional. 

Journeying north we leave Marysville by stage 
for Oroville, distant 23 miles. 

Oroville is situated at the base of the foot-hills 
upon the main Feather Eiver, and is a mining 
town of considerable importance, while a rich 
agricultural region extends to the north and west. 
It is the county seat of Butte County, and con- 
tains about 2,500 inhabitants. 

As the traveller journeys northward, many fine 
farms or ranches are passed, many fine views of 
the mountains of the Coast Eange, some of whose 
peaks rival those of the Sierra Nevada, especially 
Mount St. Helen, Mount St. John, and Mount Linn, 
which are each from 7,000 to 9,000 feet above the 
level of the sea. 

To the eastward on our right, the snow-capped 
peaks of the Sierra Nevada rise gleaming in the 



256 



OALrFOENIA. 



Bunsliine, bathecl in snow; beyond Eed BluflF we 
obtain a fine view of Lassen''s Butte, a solitary 
peak rising to an altitude of 12,000 feet. Near 
Beading's Kanch, before reacbing Shasta, we get a 
splendid view of Mount Shasta, the highest moun- 
tain in California, a vast cone of snow rising to the 
height of 16,000 feet above the level of the sea, the 
magnificent landmark at the head of the Sacra- 
mento Valley. 



Red Bluff.— Hotels : 

Hotel. 



-Lima House; Eagle 



Travelling through a rich agricnltural region 
over good roads, wo cross the Sacramento Elver at 
Tehama, 50 miles north of Orovillc, and proceed- 
ing up the western bank of that stream 14 miles 
we reach Red Bluff, a village of some 1,000 inhab- 
itants, the county seat of Tehama County, and 
situated at the head of navigation on the Sacra- 
mento Eiver. 

This place is the centre of trade for the more 
northern mines of California, goods reaching here 
from San Francisco by the river to Colusa on the 
Sacramento, 75 miles below, or when the water is 
in a good stage, being shipped directly to this 
place. 

The journey from Marysville to Eed Bluff (90 
mUes) can be made in 13 hours for $15. 

Shasta. — Hotels : — Empire; American. 

At a distance of 28 miles from Red Bluff we pass 
through HorsetoAvn, a prosperous mining town of 
500 inhabitants, and 9 miles further we arrive at 
Shasta, This town is situated in the foot-hills 
of the mountains stretching across the north- 
ern end of the State, connecting the northern 
Sierras with the Coast Range. It is a mining 
town of SOO inhabitants, at the northern extremity 
of what was once wagon navigation. Formerly 
all goods destined for mines further north, had to 
be packed on mules, but a good wagon road has re- 
cently been constructed over the Siskiyou Moun- 
tains, by the California Stage Company, for the 
purpose of transporting the U. S. Mail between 
Sacramento and Portland, Oregon. 

Leaving Shasta for Treka, we pass the Tower 
House, 12 miles, French Gulch, 15, Mountain House, 
23, Gibb's Ferry, 35, Chadbourne, 43, Trinity Centre, 
49, and Thompson's, 60 miles, arriving at New 
York House, 64 miles, at the base of Scott Moun- 
tain, which is now to be climbed. In a distance 
of 6 miles further we rise 2,600 feet. Every foot 
of the distance has been made into a superb road- 
way by cutting into the solid rock, bridging chasms, 
excavating the precipitous side of the mountain, 
walling up with stone, clearing away a dense 
growth of timber, and overcoming other obstacles. 
On the right rises the perpendicular embankment 



created fax excavating for the road, whil? on the 
left the traveller looks down a fearful precipice 
its side bristling with sharp and jagged rocks. 
The summit reached, we are upward of 5,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. Here we obtain a glo- 
rious view of Mount Shasta on the right, covered 
with its snowy shroud. 

A continuous descent of 7 miles brings us to tha 
head of Scott Valley, and 3 miles beyond is Calla- 
han's Ranch. Scott Valley is a level area 40 miles 
long and from 3 to 9 miles wide, a beautiful tract 
of country, hemmed in on all sides by bold and 
precipitous mountains. Passing through Fort 
Jones, 22 mUes north, and crossing a lofty divide 
at the termination of the valley, we arrive at 
Treka, 116 mUes from Shasta. 

Yreka. — Hotels : — Metropolitan; YreJca. 

Treka, the county seat of Siskiyou County, is 
the most important mining town north of Oroville. 
The town contains about 1,500 inhabitants, is well 
laid out, has many flue buildings, and is lighted 
T\'ith gas. It is situated in the valley of Shasta 
Creek, is encompassed with mountains, and is dis- 
tant from the State line 28 miles. The mines in 
the vicinity are very productive, giving the place 
a steady and rapid growth. A fine view of Mount 
Shasta, distant some 30 miles, is attained from the 
ridge east of the town. 

Proceeding north we pass through Cottonwood, 
20 miles, to Cole's, 28 miles, where there is a good 
wayside inn. Here we ascend the Siskiyou Moun- 
tain, 4 miles, and from its summit get the last 
glimpse of Mount Shasta. Descending the moun- 
tain 4 miles to its base, and traversing 20 miles of 
rolling country, we arrive at Jacksonville, 56 miles 
from Yreka. 

Jacksonville is a prominent town of South- 
em Oregon, situated in the fertile Rogue River 
Valley, about 9 miles south of the river. 

From Jacksonville, Althouse lies about 60 miles 
west, and Crescent City on the Pacific coast south 
of the bound.ary line, 125 miles, traversing an ex- 
ceedingly rough country. 

Having reached the northern limits of our jour- 
ney, we return to MarysviUe ma Treka and Eed 
Bluff. 

Perhaps an excursion from Treka west to tha 
coast would be of Interest. Scott's Bar, a rich 
mining locality, lies some 25 miles distant; the 
Forks of Salmon, a mining locality in Klamath 
County, about 90 miles distant ; the mouth of the 
Trinity River 130 miles; and Trinidad on the 
coast about 160 miles. 

From Shasta the rich mining localities in the 
vicinity of Weaver ville, distant 38 miles, and 
Humboldt Bay on the Pacific coast, some 75 miles 
distant, can be visited on animals. 



OALIFOENIA. 



267 



All these excursions can be accomplislieii on a 
"iding animal. A mule is preferable, at an expense 
of about 6 dollars per day, which includes every 
thing. Good meals and sleeping accommodations 
are found along the routes, which is truly surpris- 
ing, considering the almost impracticable nature 
of the country traversed. 

The Sierra Nevada Mountains and 
Mines. Having returned to Marysville, we will 
now make an excursion among the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, visiting the most celebrated miidng 
regions which lie along their western slope. 

Taking the Downieville road, we pass through 
the once rich localities of Long Bar, 14 miles, 
Oamptonville, 35 miles, and Goodyear's Bar^ 12 
miles, arriving at Downieville, 4 miles, making the 
total distance from Marysville 65 miles. By this 
route we visit what were once the most important 
river and hill diggings in the State, finding good 
accommodations and fare at all points upon the 
road. 



Downieville. — Hotels : 
change; Andrews' Hotel. 



-American Ex- 



Downieville is the county seat of Sierra County, 
and contains about 1,500 inhabitants. It is situated 
at the junction of the east and south forks of the 
Korth Tuba Eiver, high up In the mountains, its 
elevation being about 4,000 feet above the level of 
the sea. The scenery is bold and impressive, the 
moimtains rising to a great height on either hand. 
The Sierra Buttes, 12 miles east, and 9,000 feet 
high, form a notable feature in the landscape. 

An excursion from this point jaorth would be of 
interest, passing through the rich and prosperous 
mining localities of Monte Cristo, 4 miles, Eureka, 
7, Morristown, 11, Port Wine, 15, La Porte, 18, Gib- 
sonville, 25, Newark, 27, Onion Valley, 30, Nelson's 
Point, 36, arriving at Quincy, 43 miles, over a very 
wild and rough country. To the northeast of 
Quincy, whi'ih is the county seat of Plumas County, 
lies Honey Lake, Honey Lake Valley, and Honey 
Lake Pass. Pilot Peak, near Onion Valley, is, next 
to Lassen's Butte, the highest peak of the northern 
Sierras. 

Leaving Downieville for Nevada, we take a 
soiitherly direction through Forest City, 6 miles, 
Camptonville, 18, North San Juan, 26, arriving at 
Nevada, 38 miles, in 12 hours. 

Nevada. — 'S.otsis, •. — United, States Hotel; 
Wutional Exchange; Hotel de Paris. 

Nevada is the largest mining city in the State. 
It contains a population of about 4,500, and is the 
centre of a large, rich mining region. It is the 
county seat of Nevada County, situated wall up 
among the foot-hills, and contains many fine hotels, 



stores, and churches. Having suffered like most 
of the cities of California from fires, the business 
portion has been rebuilt with substantial fire-proof 
structures. 

In the vicinity occur many heavy mining opera- 
tions, the hill diggings and tunnels. It has ever 
been the first in using the improved methods of 
hydraulic pressure, sluices, tunnels, &c. Immense 
outlays in water canals, for mining purposes, have 
been made in Nevada County. 

A visit beyond, toward the head of the South 
Tuba, is of much interest. Besides the wild 
scenery, the stranger will be convinced of the ex- 
haustless nature of the mining interests of Califor- 
nia, as all the immense ridges dividing the Tuba 
Kiver, extending for 20 or 30 miles in length, 
abound in the richest mines of gold, which will 
take centuries of labor to develop. The country 
also affords exhaustless quantities of the finest 
lumber, consisting of pine, cedar, fir, &c. 

Nevada is the western terminus of an important 
route over the Sierras to Virginia City, in Washoe, 
called the Henness Pass route. A good road has 
been constructed over this route, which has an 
easier grade than any of those further south. The 
distance from Nevada to Virginia City is about 100 
miles. 

Grass Valley.— Hotels -.—ExchoMge Hotel; 
Hotel de Paris. 

Grass Valley, 4 miles south of Nevada, is the 
great quartz mining centre of the State. It con- 
tains about 3,000 inhabitants, is finely located, and 
is noted for its fine hotels and beautiful residences, 
as well as numerous quartz mills. It is said to 
contain more wealth, including its mills and 
maohineiy, than any other mining town in the 
State. 

Auburn. — Hotels : — Empire ; American, 

Journeying southward from Grass Valley, we 
wind along through the mountains and forests, 
crossing Bear Elver, arriving at Auburn, 25 miles. 
This is a fine village of about 1,000 inhabitants, the 
county seat of Placer County, and the centre of a 
large farming region. 

A rich mining region exists northeast of Auburn, 
between the north .;i:(l middle forks of the Ameri- 
can Elver, and many thriving mining towns have 
sprung up, among which are Illinoistown, Iowa 
Hill, Forest Hill, Tankee Jim's, Michigan Bluffs, 
Dutch Flats, and others, distant from 18 to 35 
miles. 

Dutch Flat, 32 miles distant, is the starting-point 
of what is called the Dutch Flat Wagon Eoad over 
the Sierras via the Truckee Pass to Virginia City. 
The latter is 120 miles from Auburn by this route. 



258 



CALIFOENIA. 



Folsom.— Hotels •.—Patterson's; Central; 

Fremont. 

Folsom, a bustling place of 1,200 inliabitaiits, 18 
miles south of Auburn, is tbe eastern terminus of 
the Sacramento Valley Kailroad. It is situated at 
the base of the foot-hills, and is surrotmded by 
both a mining and an agricultural region. Nine 
stages leave every morning, on the an-ival of the 
cars from Sacramento, for various points in the 
mountains. 

The AlalDaster Cave.— As we shall not 
have a better opportunity, we will step into one of 
these stages, destined for the Alabaster Cave, 13 
miles to the northeast in El Dorado County, and 
pay a visit to one of the great wonders and curios- 
ities of California. 

This cave was discovered in April, ISCO, by two 
men who were quarrying limestone. It was im- 
mediately taken in charge by Mr. Wm. Gwynn, 
who arranged a convenient entrance, and keeps the 
interior constantly lighted. 

(It has been called by a variety of names since 
it was discovered, but it is now known as the Ala- 
baster Cave.) 

This cave is situated on the Wiisky Bar road, 
Ave miles from Centerville, in El Dorado County. 
A single step takes you from the street into the 
hall of the silent mansion. This entrance is not 
the one first discovered, but has been cut through 
the solid rock from another chamber to the outer 
world. Passing through this, the visitor is usher- 
ed into an irregular apartment two hundred faet 
in length by perhaps seventy-five in width, and of 
various heights, with numerous elevations, depres- 
sions, recesses, galleries, etc. A scene of wonder- 
ful magnificence is before him. Millions of jewels 
appear to be glittering from the walls. Shining 
pendants, some large, some small, some short, some 
very long, some reaching from ceiling to floor, 
some thick, some slender, some tapering, some 
■uniform, some tubular, some solid, some clear 
as crystal, some of a bluish tinge, hang thickly 
from the marble roof. Here a little wrinkly 
stub of a stalagmite pushes itself up from the 
floor ; and there stands Lot's wife turned into a 
pillar of salt, but of marble ; and there, again, is 
Mt. Blanc rising with its snon'y folds several feet 
above your head. Passing through this first cham- 
ber and descending a little, you turn to the left, 
through a cross section, from which shoot out sev- 
eral passages, some brilliantly lit, and beautiful to 
behold, and others, one at least, as yet unexplored. 
Turning still to the left, you enter the last cham- 
ber lying exactly parallel to the one first entered, 
but if any thing more beautiful. This is called the 
chapel, and has its belfry and pulpit as well. The 
pulpit especially is a thing of rare beauty, proba- 
bly built in the olden time, as it is rather too near 



the ceiling to be of modem design. It has been 
formed by droppings from above, catching on a 
projection of rock, and then rising and spreading 
and folding over with the most graceful drapery 
underneath. 

Placerville. — Hotisls: — Gary House; Or- 
leans Hotel; KeoTcuh House. 

Placerville, the county seat of El Dorado County, 
is 28 miles east of Folsom. It is one of the oldest 
and one of the largest of the mountain towns, con- 
taining about 4,000 inhabitants. It is on the prin- 
cipal route of travel over the Sierra Nevada Moun- 
tains to the Washoe region in Carson Valley, and 
is a prominent fitting-out point. 

The to\vn of Coloma, 10 miles northwest of 
Placerville, was formerly the coimty seat of El 
Dorado County, and is distinguished as the place 
where gold was first discovered. The remains of 
the old saw mill of Captain Sutter are just beloTr 
the present town, and will be looked upon with 
much interest by the stranger as a memento of the 
great event which has revolutionized the com- 
merce of the world. 

Carson Valley. — ^We will now take an ex- 
cursion over the Sierras to Carson Valley, touch- 
ing at other poinls on the eastern slope, where ex- 
ist silver and gold mines of marvellous richness, 
which are attracting capitalists from the old and 
new world. There is a finely-graded road the 
whole distance, and it winds through some of the 
vnldest and most beautiful scenery in California, 
as well as affording glimpses of the most grand 
and sublime. 

The facilities of travel over the Placerville and 
Virginia City road, are of the best description. A 
line of mail stages runs daily between the two 
cities, bringing them within 80 hours of each other, 
allowing passengers time for meals and rest upon 
the road. 

Leaving Placerville in the afternoon, we enter 
almost immediately upon the broad mountain road 
that by easy grades conducts us to the west sum- 
mit of the SieiTa Nevadas, a height of 7,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. As we approach the 
summit, the pines, firs, and cedars attain a gigan- 
tic size, and constitute a dense forest. At Crip- 
pen's, 26 miles from Placerville, we pass the night. 

Renewing the journey at daybreak, we pass 
through Strawberry Valley, 50 miles from Placer- 
ville, where a good hotel afi'ords the best of aceom- 
modationa, and a few miles farther reach the west 
summit. From this point of view we have a com- 
bination of mountain, lake, and valley scenery, 
unsurpassed in beauty and wild grandeur by any 
similar scene perhaps on the American Continent. 
At our feet lies Lake Valley, more than a thousand 
feet below. Granite lodges gleam through the 



OALIFOENIA. 



259 



dark pines that fringe its sides, •wMcli rise in places 
to snow-covered peaks. To the left and north- 
eastward 7 miles, repose the deep blue waters of 
Lake Bigler, while beyond, the exti-emity of the 
valley loses itself in the distance. The effect of 
the whole scene is as charming as it is indescriba- 
ble. 

Descending into the valley by a roadway exca- 
vated from the side of the mountain, we pass over 
the east summit through Daggett's Pass, and 5 
miles beyond find ourselves in the open, level, ele- 
vated plain of Carson Yalley, 2 miles south of 
Genoa. 

Carson Valley is a tract of nearly level land 
about -30 miles long and 10 mde, three-fourths of 
which is excellent land for agricultural purposes. 
Although shut in by high mountains on the east 
and on the west, it is itself an elevated plateau, 
more than 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
Carson Eiver, fringed with willows and occasional 
cottonwoods, flows through it in a northerly direc- 
tion. The eastern slope of the Sierras is very ab- 
rupt, rising at a shafp angle from the western limit 
of the valley, and is covered with pines, though 
none grow in the valley below. 

Many of the emigrants to California, journeying 
across the plains, reach the country by the route 
which passes through Carson Valley, and termi- 
nates at PlacerviUe. Though other routes across 
the mountains are much used, this has always been 
a favorite one. 

The emigrant, leaving the frontier of Missouri 
at St. Joseph or Ft. Leavenworth, journeys up the 
valley of the Platte Eiver, passing through the 
Uooky Mountains by the South Pass ; thence via 
Great Salt Lake City, or via Bear Eiver to the 
north of Great Salt Lake ; thence to the head of 
the Humboldt Eiver, and down the latter to the 
sink of the Humboldt, crossing the desert, and 
reaching Carson Valley. The distance travelled by 
this route across the plains is about 2,000 miles, 
and occupies wagon teams from three to four 
months. Mules can be ridden this distance in 50 
days. 

The Pony Express, which, by relays, is enabled 
to make the distance from the Missouri Eiver to 
Sacramento in 12 days, passes over the same route, 
with the exception of taking Simpson's Cut-off be- 
tween Great Salt Lake City and Carson Valley, 
which has of late become a favorite route for emi- 
grants. 

Genoa. — Hotels: — Genoa; Nemada. 

This place is the present county seat of Carson 
County, in Nevada Ter., and contains about 600 
Inhabitants. It is the oldest town in this region, 
having been settled by the Mormons who formerly 
Inhabited Carson Valley, 



Carson City. — Hotels: — Frisbie; Ormsby; 

St. Jfioholas. 

Crossing a low divide we enter Eagle Valley, and 
arrive at Carson City, 15 miles north of Genoa. 
It is situated like the latter place at the base of the 
Sierras, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Not- 
withstanding its rapid growth, having attained this 
population in less than 18 months, it contains 
many substantial buildings and comfortable homes. 

Virginia City. — Hotels : — International; 
Barnuni's; Bailey'' s. 

Passing through Silver City and Gold Hill, we 
arrive at Virginia City, IS miles north of Carson 
City. This is the largest town in Nevada Ter., 
containing about 3,000 inhabitants. In its vicinity 
is the famous Comstock Lead — the richest vein of 
silver in the world. It is about 2,000 feet in length, 
18 inches wide on the surface, expanding in some 
parts of the vein as it descends, and has been 
traced to a depth of more than 50 feet. It is di- 
vided into sections called claims, owued by differ- 
ent companies, as the " Mexican," " Ophir," " Cen- 
tral," " Gould & Curry," and others. The general 
dfrection of the " lead " is north and south. Other 
veins of more or less richness have been discovered 
parallel to the Comstock Lead, and also at points 
further north and south, which are supposed to be 
links in an extended system of silver deposits. 

Gold quartz also exists in abundance throughout 
this region, and numerous quartz mills have been 
erected for crushing out the ore. 

About 90 miles in a southeasterly direction from 
Genoa, is a region called the Emeralda District, 
also rich in deposits of silver and gold. Still fur- 
ther south some 20 or 25 miles is the gold region 
of Mono Lake. 

Of the many routes over the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, we may mention, commencing with 
the most northerly, the Honey Lake Pass, the 
Beckwith Pass, the Henness Pass, the Truckee 
Pass, Daggett's Pass, or the PlacerviUe Eoute, the 
Big Tree Eoute, and the Sonora Pass. The latter 
is the highest, being about 10,000 feet above the 
level of the sea. 

Eeturning to PlacerviUe via Genoa and Daggett's 
Pass, we proceed on oar journey to the southern 
mines. Passing through Diamond Springs, Michi- 
gan Bar, and Drytown, to Jackson, the county seat 
of Amador County, 45 miles distant, we there take 
the stage from Sacramento, and crossing Moke- 
lumne Eiver on a line bridge, reach Mokelumne 
Hill in 5 miles. 



Mokelumne Hill. — Hotels : 
Souse ; La Fayette Jlouse. 



Union 



Mokelumne Hill, the county seat of Calaveras 



260 



OALIFOENIA. 



County, has a population of about 800, and contains 
many fine stono buildings, and other permanent 
Btructures. In the vicinity, some of the richest 
hill diggings in the State have been found. A 
canal for bringing water for mining purposes, a 
distance of 40 miles, has been in use several years; 
lumber is also floated down fi'om the lumber re- 
gion above. 

In speaking of the canals of the mining region, 
it -will be proper to state that millions of dollars 
are most profitably employed In their structure, 
and they are found traversing almost every ravine 
and flat ; brought from far up the mountains at the 
sources of the streams ; sometimes constructed of 
plank the entire distance, as the canal coming into 
Mokclumne Hill. These are among the greatest 
enterprises of the State, involving an immense 
outlay of capital and labor. In Calaveras Cotmty 
alone, there are 51 canals and water ditches, whose 
aggregate length is 550 miles, and the cost of con- 
struction $1,600,000. 

San Andreas. — Hotels : — Metropolitan ; 
Kinderliook. 

Proceeding south by stage 9 miles, we arrive at 
San Andreas, a prosperous mining town of over 
1,000 inhabitants. It is beautifully situated in 
close proximity to well-wooded hills. Northward 
and eastward on Murray Creek, are a number of 
orchards, gardens, and grazing ranches ; to the 
west is the regular wall-formed Bear Mountain, 
covered with grass and oak timber. 

Murphy's. — Hotel •.—Spei'rifs. 

A ride of 15 miles brings us to Murphy's, a vil- 
lage of six or eight hundred inhabitants, contain- 
ing a fine hotel built of stone. In the immediate 
vicinity of the to\\Ti rich deep diggings and hill 
diggings occur, and are worked on an extensive 
scale. A daily line of coaches reach Stockton from 
this point, and this is also the western terminus of 
the Big Ti-ee Eoute over the Sierras into Carson 
Valley. 

Th.e Mammoth Tree G-rove. — "We are 
now within 15 miles of the celebrated grove of 
mammoth trees in Calaveras County. 

Leaving Murphy's in the morning, we arrive at 
the grove in three hours, by carriages or on horse- 
back, the road winding through a line open forest, 
consisting of immense pines, firs, cedars, &c. At 
the grove a good hotel affords every accommoda- 
tion to the visitor, ahd several days might be 
pleasantly spent at this point. The valley which 
contains these monster trees, is at the source of 
one of the branches .of the Calaveras Eiver, 81 
miles from Stockton, and 203 miles from San 
Francisco. Here within an area of 50 acres some 



90 odd mammoth trees are now standing. Full 20 
of these exceed 25 feet in diameter at the base, 
and several of them are more than 300 feet in 
height. The one cut down in 1S53 for the pur- 
pose of carrying a section of its trunk to the At- 
lantic States, stood near the house ; the stump 
measures 96 feet in circumference, and the tree 
was 802 feet high. One, whose bark has been 
taken off 116 feet, is 827 feet high, and 90 feet in 
circumference at the base. One of the fallen trees 
measured 110 feet in circumference at the roots'; it 
is 200 feet to the first branch, the whole trunk be- 
ing hollow, and through which a person can walk 
erect. It is estimated that it was over 400 feet 
high, 

Columhia. — Hotels •.—Broadway ; Golwrn,' 
hia ; Mansion House. 

Eetuming to Mtirphy's wo take the stage via 
Douglas Flat, crossing the Stanislaus Eiver at Ab- 
beys Ferry, arriving at Columbia in 8 miles from 
Murphy's. 

The scenery at the crossing of the Stanislaus is 
grand, and we find Columbia one of the largest and 
finest towns in the mining region, having a popu- 
lation of some 2,000, with fine brick stores, hotels, 
churches, &c. 

In the vicinity many large mining operations 
are being carried on, which will interest the trav- 
eller. 

Beyond, a little over a mile, is the thriving vil- 
lage of Springfield, and 2 miles further, lies Shaw's 
Flat, another important point. 

Table Mountain, also, is well worth a visit. Many 
tunnels are found piercing the mountain for thou- 
sands of feet, yielding immense profits to the 
lucky owners. It is a formation of basaltic lava, 
and to the geologist its peculiar formation would 
be of much interest. 

Sonora.— Hotels:— Ci^y; Placer; United 

States. 

Hourly lines of stages connect Columbia with 
Sonora, the county seat of Tuolumne County, dis- 
tant 4 miles. 

Sonora, the most important mining town in the 
southern mines, contains about 2,700 inhabitants. 
A fine court house, several churches, three or four 
good hotels, and many fine stores, adorn the place. 
Daily lines of stages leave and arrive from Stock- 
ton and Sacramento, with many routes diverging 
north and south to the way places. 

CoTilterville. — ^Hotel : — Coulter''s. 

We will now take the stage for Coulterville, 
Mariposa County, passing through Jamesto^vn, 5 



OALIFOENIA. 



261 



miles, Montezuma, 9 miles, Chinese camp, 11 miles, 
, crossing the Tuolumne Iliver at Don Pedi'o's Bar, 
25 miles, arriving at Coulterville the saj^ue day, 
distant from Sonora 40 miles. 

Coulterville is a small mining town, containing 
a few stores which supply the miners in the vicin- 
ity : the traveller will find good accommodations 
at Coulter's Hotel. 

The Valley of tlie Yo-Semite.— A trip to 
the celebrated valley of the; To-Semite from this 
point would amply repay the tourist. The valley 
is about 45 miles east of here, and is reached upon 
animals ; the trip can be made in 4 or 5 days, with 
ample time to view the different points in the val- 
ley. 

Procuring animals at Coulterville for the trip, 
and providing ourselves with blankets and provi- 
sions, we start for the To-Semite Valley on the 
Mariposa Trail. 

At a distance of 12 miles is Bower Cave, a singu- 
lar, grotto-like formation, that Im-es the traveller 
aside for a few moments. Passing on to Deer Flat, 
23 miles from Coulterville, we camp for the night. 
The next day we reach Crane Flat, 12 miles fur- 
ther, in time for an early lunch. Here the snow- 
clad Sierras begin to rise in serrated peaks above 
the horizon. To the right, about one mile, is a 
grove of mammoth trees, similar to those in Cal- 
averas County, but fewer in number. One of 
these, consisting of two joined at their base, is 
called the Siamese Twins, and is 114 feet in cir- 
cumference. 

Two hours and 9 miles further, will bring ns 
to Inspiration Point, whence we first look down 
into the wonderful cleft of the Sierras called the 
To-Semite. Descending into the valley, it is 7 
miles to the foot of the trail, and 6 miles thence to 
the upper Hotel. After resting here over night, 
we will inspect the wonders of the valley. 

The To-Semite Valley is about 10 miles long, 
rarely exceeding a mile in mdth, walled in by per- 
pendicular rocks from 8,000 to 5,000 feet high on 
cither hand. The Merced Eiver winds through 
the grassy meadows at the bottom. It receives 
several tributaries, which pour over these granite 
walls at various points, forming water-falls on a 
magnificent scale. The most remarkable of these 
has been called the To-Semite Fall. It descends 
in two unbroken sheets, the upper one 1,450 feet in 
height, and the lower one 700 feet, while the rapids 
between the two have a fall of 400 feet, giving the 
total height of the whole fall 2,550 feet. Among 
the other falls are the Fall of the North Fork of the 
Merced, about 750 feet high, the Pi-wi-ack, or Ver- 
nal Fall, about 300 feet high, the To-wi-ye, or Ne- 
vada Fall, about 700 feet high, and numerous others 
of lesser note. Not the least remarkable objects 
of interest are the two domes, presenting nearly 
perpendicular faces on opposite sides of the valley. 



The North Dome, or To-coy-ee, is about 3,000 feet 
high. The South Dome, or Tas-sa-ack, is 4,600 
feet, the lower two-thirds of which is a sheer per- 
pendicular rook, so that a stone tossed from its top 
would fall at its base. The volume of water pour- 
ing over the various falls varies according to the 
season of the year, being quite inconsiderable in 
the month of September; and one or two little 
lakes gem the valley. 

Mariposa. — Hotels : — Union House ; 
FrankUn Souse. 

From Coulterville we can reach Mariposa by 
mules, crossing the Merced Elver, distance 20 
miles; or by returning toward the plains and 
taking a circuitous route by stage, 50 miles. 

Mariposa, the county seat of Mariposa County, 
is 91 miles from Stockton, with which it is con- 
nected by daily liihes of stages occupying 25 hours. 
It is the most southerly of all the miuing towns 
of importance in the State, and contains about 
1,300 inhabitants. There are valuable quartz leads, 
and rich flat, gulch, and hill diggings, in the vicin- 
ity. It is here, in the valley of the Blariposa Creek, 
that the celebrated Fremont Grant is located. 
There is a good trail from Mariposa to the To- 
Semite Valley, distance 55 miles. 

We now return via Stockton to San Francisco, 
whence we originally started. Passing through 
Hornitos, 16 miles, a brisk mining town of 800 in- 
habitants ; Snelling, 12 miles, the county seat of 
Merced County ; Loring's Bridge, 13 miles, where 
we cross the Stanislaus Eiver on a fine suspension 
bridge; thence over an undulattug country to 
Stockton, 50 miles. 

Stockton. — Hotels: — Weber House; Mag- 
nolia ; Main Street. 

This important place is situated upon a slough 
or arm of the San Joaquin Eiver, and is 125 miles 
from San Francisco i)ia the steamboat route, and 
80 miles via the stage route through Alameda 
County to Oakland and across the bay. 

Stockton is the centre of trade and travel for all 
the country south of the Cosumnes Eiver, the 
district generally known as the Southern Mines. 

The city contains a population of some 5,000 in- 
habitants, having several good hotels, fine churches, 
and a theatre. The streets are well graded and 
planked ; many of the stores and other places of 
business ai-e fine structures of brick. A daily 
line of steamers from San Francisco reach the 
place in the morning, and connect with the nu- 
merous lines of stages which leave every morning 
for the various mining to\vns in the interior. In 
the environs of Stockton, particularly toward the 
Calaveras Kiver, many fine farms or ranches are 



262 



CALIFORNIA. 



located, and tmder good improvement. The State 
Asylum for the insane, a noble structure, is situ- 
ated near the suburbs of the city. 

The scenery is beautiful with evergreen oaks, 
while on the east the lofty Sierra Nevadas, with 
their snow-capped summits, are ever visible, and 
on the west the duplicate peaks of Mount Diablo 
rise in towering magnificence. 

Leaving Stockton, on the return to San Francis- 
co, we take the steamer at 4 o'clock p. Ji., and 
wending our way down the narrow crooked chan- 
nel of the San Joaquin, we see but little to inter- 
est, as the country is almost a total marsh, covered 
with tules. Toward the setting sun. Mount Diablo 
rears his double summit to the height of 3,790 feet, 
presenting a grand outline, while the coast range 
stretches to the south as far as the eye can reach, 
forming the western boundary of the great valley 
which we have just traversed. 

Morning finds us at our comfortable quarters in 
San Francisco, after the long tour through the great 
valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, with 
the ride through the mountains of the Sierra Ne- 
vada, which forms the eastern boundary of these 
great valleys. The time occupied by such a trip 
would be in the neighborhood of two months, at 
an expense of about $.500. 

The Butterfield Overland Mail Route. 
— An intereresting trip can bo made to the south- 
em part of the State, by the way of Visalia and 
Fort Tejon, by taking Butterfl eld's Overland Mail 
coaches to Los Angeles, thence returning up the 
coast, either by private conveyance along the shore, 
or by ocean steamers which connect San Francisco 
with the southern ports twice a month. 

The overland stage leaves San Francisco at 12 ir. 
each Monday and Friday. Proceeding southward 
we pass through Eedwood City, 80 mUes, the 
county seat of San Mateo Coxmty ; and Santa Clara 
20 miles beyond, a fine village of 1,000 inhabitants, 
containing the Pacific University, the Santa Clara 
College, and other flourishing institutions. Hourly 
omnibuses connect Santa Clara with San Jose, 4 
miles distant. 



San Jose.— Hotels : 

toil's; Mansio-n House. 



-CrandeWa; Apple- 



Daily lines of stages leave San Francisco for 
San Jose ; one line by the western side of the bay ; 
the other is taken by crossing over to Oakland, 8 
miles by steamer, and then by stage along the 
eastern side of the bay to San Jose. The distance 
by either line is about 54 miles ; fare generally 
$8.00. A daily line of steamers runs to Alviso, 
situated on a slough at the southern extremity of 
the bay, and there connects by stages with San 
Jose, 1 miles distant. 

San Jose, the garden city of California, is situa- 



ted in the midst of a very fertile valley. It con- 
tains about 8,000 inhabitants, and has some fine 
public buildings and many elegant private resi- 
dences. Besides the beauty of the valley of San Jose 
and its climate of perpetual spring, the gardens 
and Artesian wells, many places in the vicinity are 
worthy of a visit, especially the Quicksilver Mines 
and the Missions of Santa Clara and San Jose. 
The New Almaden Quicksilver Mines are about 16 
miles south, and Monterey on the coast 126 miles. 
Proceeding on ouj journey by the Overland 
Mail Eoute, we emerge from the valley of the 
Santa Clara Kiver through the Pacheco Pass in the 
Coast Eange, into the valley of the San Joaquin. 
Travelling up the western side of the valley, we 
first touch the river at Firebaugh's Ferry, 165 
miles from San Francisco. Continuing on the 
same side we pass the great bend of the San Joa- 
quin, and soon reach Fresno City, 184 miles from 
San Francisco. Crossing the little stream which 
seems to connect Tulare Lake with the San Joa- 
quin, we cross King's Eiver 40 miles beyond, and 
soon ai-rive at Visalia 248 miles from San Fran- 



Visalia. — Hotels '.^Exchange ; Warren's. 

This is the only town of importance between 
San Jose and Los Angeles on the Overland Eoute, 
containing about 1,200 inhabitants. It is located 
on the banks of the Kaweah Eiver, about 18 miles 
from the mountains on the east and 20 from Tu- 
lare Lake on the west, in the centre of a large body 
of oak timber, and in the midst of a rich alluvial 
delta. The several creeks north and south of Vi- 
salia in its immediate vicinity, spread out on the 
large meadows and lose themselves and their 
channels before reaching the great Tulare Lake, 
which ordinarily has no well-defined outlet itself. 
The Coso silver mines lie about 100 miles east, and 
are reached by a trail over the Sierra Nevadas. 

Proceeding southward we cross Tule Eiver, 27 
miles, Kern Eiver, 87 miles, arriving at Tejon 
Canon, 128 miles from Visalia and 376 from San 
Francisco. 

Port Tejon. — Tejon Pass is at the head of the 
San Joaquin Valley. The Coast Eange and Sierra 
Nevadas, gradually converging, join at this point. 
A fort has been built high up in this romantic 
pass, about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, 
where there is a small spot of level land between 
the mountains, with fertile soil, grass, a pleasant 
brook, and fine oak trees. 

From Tejon Canon we descend into and cross 
the arid plains of Palm Valley, a part of the great 
Basin, whose waters never find the sea. Then our 
road lies over the Coast Eange through the San 
Francisquito Canon which opens into Santa Clara 
Valley, and crossing the Santa Clara Eiver, oat 



OALIFOENIA. 



263 



•way lies through the San Fernando Pass, over a 
spur of the Coast Range, whence we emerge into 
the vine-clad valley of the Kio Los Angeles, and 
in a few hours reach the city of the ^gels, 491 
miles from San Francisco. 



liOS Angeles. — Hotels : — Sella Union ; 
La Fayette. 

Los Angeles is situated near the foot of the 
Coast Eange on the Los Angeles Eiver. Most of 
the land in the valley which can be irrigated is 
planted with vines. The city contains about 5,000 
inhabitants. The houses are many of them of the 
Spanish style, one story with flat roofs covered 
with asphaltum, which abounds in the vicinity. 
On the northwestern side of the town and very 
near the busiest part of it, is a hill about 60 feet 
high, whence an excellent view of the whole place 
may be obtained. 

Along the bants of the river for miles are situ- 
ated the vineyards and orange groves, the pride of 
Los Angeles. 

Vast tracts of the fertile plains and river bot- 
toms are irrigated by the waters of the river, pro- 
ducing every variety of fruit and vegetable com- 
mon to the warm and temperate climes. 

In the months of March and April, looking over 
these fertile plains, covered with the richest ver- 
dure, the snow-clad heights beyond contrast beau- 
tifully with the flowers at their feet. 

To the east. Mount San Bernardino rises cov- 
ered with snow, 80 miles distant. Its altitude is 
about 8,000 feet, and it marks the site of the pleas- 
ant valley in which the village of San Bernardino 
is situated. 

Silver leads of more or less promise have been 
discovered in various parts of the neighboring 
mountains. A rich tin mine has been discovered 
at Temesoal, about 60 miles distant on the over- 
land route. The San Gabriel placer gold mines 
lie about 20 miles to the northeast. The sites of 
several old mi ssions are in Los Angeles County. 

The entire distance from San Francisco to St. 
Louis, by the Butterfield Overland Mail Eoute 
through Los Angeles, is 2,881 miles, the last liO of 
which is performed by railroad. This route is now 
much travelled, each stage being capable of taking 
six through passengers. The distance is usually 
accomplished in 22 days. The traveller can ob- 
tain meals at way stations, which occur from 15 to 
40 miles apart. He rides night and day without 
cessation, soon getting used to the motion of the 
stage so that he can get refreshing sleep at night, 
and arrives well and hearty at his journey's end. 

The distance from Los Angeles to St. Louis is 
2,890 miles, divided as follows : 



From Los Angeles 

To Fort Ynma 288 

Tucliaon 281 E69 

El Paso 339 308 

Fort Chndbourne 423 1336 

Red River 384 1720 

Fort Smith 192 1912 

SjTacuBe 308 2220 

St. Louis no 2390 

From Los Angeles a pleasant journey can be 
made to San Diego in two days. Setting out for 
Anaheim, 2T miles, we travel along the coast, pass- 
ing through San Juan Capistrano, 55 miles, Los 
Flores, T3, San Luis Eey, 85, San Dieginto, 105j 
arriving at San Diego, 125 miles from Los Angeles, 

San Diego. — Hotel : — Franhlin LTouse. 

San Diego is a small town of 500 inhabitants, 
situated upon a harbor of the same name. San 
Diego harbor, next to that of San Francisco, is the 
best on the coast of California, being well pro- 
tected, capacious, and having a fine depth of water. 
There is nothing remarkable about the town or 
surrounding scenery. A fine grazing country in- 
land, abounds in large cattle ranches. 

San Diego is connected with San Francisco by an 
ocean steamer, which makes two trips a month, 
touching at the intermediate ports of S.an Pedro, 
the port of Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, San Luis 
Obispo, and Monterey, and sometimes Santa Cruz. 

Should the traveller prefer to return to San Fran- 
cisco by land, he will find the route along the shore 
very pleasant, full of beautiful and romantic scen- 
ery; the mountains of the Coast Eange and its 
spurs rising loftily on his right, and at times the 
waves of the sea dashing at his feet. 

In proceeding northward then, the first point of 
interest is Santa Barbara, about ISO miles from San 
Diego by water, and 100 ffom Los Angeles by land. 

Santa Barbara.— Hotel:— Ci'iy Rotel. 

The steamers afford a fine view of the coast, as 
they pass near the land ; and approaching Santa 
Barbara, the view is vecy imposing. High ranges 
of mountains bound the view to the eastward, 
while the beautiful valley in which the town is 
situated, stretches far to the northward, finely re- 
lieved by a baokgi-ound of misty mountains, grand 
in outline. 

This place, with the other ports along the coast, 
is famous for the hide business, formerly the staple 
product of California. 

Santa Barbara has no protected harbor like San 
Pedro, and other places along the coast ; it is only 
an open roadstead, dangerous during a south-easter, 



264 



CALIFOENIA. 



wMcIi, however, occurs only during tlie rainy 
season. 

The town, like Monterey and tlie other old places 
in California, retains much of its old Spanish look 
— the buildings of adobes or sun-dried bricks, 
roofed with tiles, presenting a venerable appear- 
ance. A ride to the Mission of Santa Bai-bara, 
about 3 miles distant, would be of interest. 

The climate below Point Conception (which lies 
between Monterey and Santa Barbara) is much 
milder. The northwest winds which prevail to 
the north, are not felt, and the climate is much 
warmer. 

Continuing on our way up the coast, we touch 
the shore 110 miles above Santa Barbara, for tho 
benefit of those who wish to go to San Luis 
Obispo, the county seat of San Luis Obispo County, 
and a small, unimportant Spanish town, in the 
midst of a beautiful gi-azlng country. 

Monterey. — Hotel : — WasMngton. 

The large open bay of Monterey lies about 120 
miles north of San Luis Obispo by water. The 
town of Monterey is beautifully situated upon the 
southern extremity of this bay. It was formerly 
the seat of government, and principal port on the 
coast of California. But since the rise of San 
Francisco, its commerce and business have dwin- 
dled away, and now it is one of the most quiet 
places in the State, containing about 1,500 inhabit- 
ants. 

The view of the town from the anchorage is 
very fine, especially if visited in the months of 
April or May. The green slopes upon which the 
to'MTi is built, contrast beautifully with the forest 
of pines which grow upon the ridges beyond, 

Santa Cruz. — Hotel : — Exchange. 

It is 20 miles across the bay from Monterey to 
Santa Cruz, the county seat of Santa Cruz County. 
The town contains about SCO inhabitants, and is 
surrounded by a mountainous country covered 
with immense forests of redwood timber. 

The distance from Santa Cruz to San Francisco 
by water is about 70 miles. To San Jose, crossing 
he Santa Cruz Mountains, it is about 35 miles. 

Up the Coast. — Steamers leave San Francisco 
semi-monthly for Oregon, "Washington Territory, 
and Victoria, in the British possessions, touching at 
Mendocino, Humboldt Bay,Trinidad, Crescent City, 
Port Orford, Portland, and sometimes Vancouver, 
on the Columbia Eiver, the various points on Pu- 
get Sound, and Victoria on Vancouver's Island. 

Sailing vessels also are constantly leaving San 
Francisco for Humboldt Bay, Port Orford, the 
Columbia Elver, Puget Soimd, and Vancouver's 
Island. 



Many of the northern mines near the coast, are 
easily accessible fi-om Humboldt Bay, Trinidad, 
Crescent City, and Port Orford in Oregon, the gold 
range approaching the coast. Coal is also found ta 
immense beds in the vicinity of Coose Bay, Oregon. 

Embarking on one of the fine ocean steamers 
for a trip up the coast, we touch at Mendocino, or 
pass it 130 miles from San Francisco, Humboldt 
Bay upon which the thriving towns of Eureka and 
Areata are situated, 280 miles, arriving at Crescent 
City, some 300 miles from San Francisco. 

Crescent City. — Hotels : — Patchin House ; 
America7i, 

Crescent City, the coimty seat of Del Norto 
County, is a thriving place of some 600 inhabitants. 
Most of the interior mining localities through a 
considerable range of countiy, obtain their sup- 
plies thi-ough this post. Extensive veins of cop- 
per have been discovered in the vicinity, some of 
which have been worked with profit. The sur- 
rounding region also abounds in gold and other 
minerals, but for want of systematic supplies ol 
water have not yet been much worked. 

Proceeding north we touch at Port Orford, 70 
miles, a port from which much lumber is export- 
ed; Fort Umpqua, 140, near the mouth of Ump- 
que Eiver, which drains a fertile and productive 
valley; and arrive at Astoria on the Columbia 
Elver, some 300 miles north of Crescent City, and 
about 600 miles north of San Francisco. 

The scenery of the Columbia Eiver is wild and 
grand beyond description. Vessels of the largest 
size proceed up the river from Astoria at the 
mouth, to Vancouver, a distance of about 100 miles, 
and beyond to the falls of the river, where the Cas- 
cade Eange of mountains cross. 

Some of the mountain peaks of the Cascade 
Eange, among which may be mentioned Mount 
Hood, Mount Jefferson, and Mount St. Helens, 
rival those of the Andes. They are covered with 
perpetual snow, and can be seen from various parts 
of the river. 

Portland, the chief city of Oregon, is situated on 
the Willamette Eiver near its mouth, and contains 
about 5,000 inhabitants. 

The TVUlamette Eiver flowing north between 
the coast and Cascade Eanges of mountains, emp- 
ties into the Columbia about 100 miles from the 
ocean. The valley of the Willamette is the garden 
of Oregon, and contains a large population of per- 
manent settlers, many of whom had located on 
farms some time before the Americans commenced 
settling in California. 

A month's travel to the various places on the 
Columbia would amply repay the tourist, and can 
be made from San Francisco at an expense of 
about 175 dollars, including the fare each way. 



OALIFOEWIA. 



265 



ProceediBg tip the coast we find no other seaport 
till we reach Piigct Sound, one of the most mag- 
nificent harbors in the world. While the Sound 
is so deep that vessels of the heaviest burthen can 
ti-averse any part of it with safety, it is nowhere 
too deep for convenient anchorage ; and in many 
places vessels can ride boldly up to the shore, for 
purposes of Wading, without the intervention of 
wharves. The lumber from some of the saw-mills 
on the.Sound is shipped in this way. 

The principal interests of the surrounding 
country, are lumber and agricultm-e. 

Pour thrifty towns have sprung up on different 
inlets of the Sound : viz. : Port Townsend, with 
500 inhabitants and the Custom House ; Olympia, 
with 700 inhabitants, formerly the capital of the 
territory, in the vicinity of the superb water power 
of Turn- water; Steilacoom with 800 inhabitants, 
and Seattle 500, are the termini of trails and mili- 
tary roads leading through the Cascade Eange to 
the mineral regions beyond. 

"Vyhidby's Island, at the entrance of the Sound, 
contains many fine farms, and its verdant bluffs 
rising boldly from the water's edge, are very beau- 
tiful in spring and summer. 

Several majestic mountain peaks are visible from 
the waters of the Sound, forming some of the most 
sublime scenes on the western coast of America. 
Among these are Mount Baker, Mount St. Helens, 
and Mount Eaimei', whose summits are from 12,- 
000 to 15,000 feet above the level of the sea, and 
covered with perpetual snow. Same of these have 
shown volcanic action within the last few years. 
Mount Baker, 14,000 feet high, was in active erup- 
tion in 1860. 

Prom Port Townsend the traveller can reach 
the mouth of the Columbia, or indeed Sacramento 
in California, without returning by the ocean route. 
Proceeding by steamer to the head of the Sound at 
Olympia, or by stage on the west side of the Sound 



to the same point, he can proceed from thenca 
through the cowlitz farms to Vancouver on the 
Columbia Eiver. 

Yancouver, the present capital, is one of the 
most promising places in "Washington Territory, 
containing about 1,000 inhabitants besides the sol- 
diers of the U. S. military post stationed near. 
The distance from Yancouver to Portland is 
18 miles, and the entire distance from Port Town- 
send to Portland is about 230 miles. 

Prom Portland the daily overland maU to Sacra- 
mento takes the traveller up the valley of the 
Willamette, across Umpciua and Eogue rivers to 
Jacksonville, and thence through Treka, Shasta, 
and Marysville to Sacramento, 750 miles from 
Portland, making the longest stage route in the 
Union, with the exception of the overland routes. 

The eastern slope of the Cascade Eange In Wash- 
ington Territory though but partially developed, 
gives Indications of great mineral wealth. The 
Wenatchee, Samilkameen, and Eock Creek gold 
regions, have attracted many adventurers, and 
yielded their treasures bountifully. Prom Steila- 
coon a military wagon road leads through a pass in 
the Cascade Eange to Walla Walla, 250 miles south- 
east on the Columbia Eiver. Beyond Walla Wal- 
la lies the Nez Perces gold region. 

Yictoria, on Yancouver Island, the principal 
town of the British Possessions, contains about 
3,000 inhabitants. It is the entrepot of goods for 
Praser Eiver. The gold diggings of the latter are 
still being successfully worked. 

New Westminster, the capital of British Colum- 
bia, and nest to Yictoria the largest town in the 
British dominions on the Pacific, is situated on 
Praser Eiver near the hSad of navigation. The 
mines and inhabitants are protected fi-om the dep- 
redations of Indians by "the presence of soldiers 
at Port Hope, Port Yale, &c. 



SUMMAET OP EOUTES PEOM SAIT FEANCISCO TO 



PLACE. 


DISTANCE. 


TIME. 


FAEE. 


KEMAEKS. 


Mendocino 


Miles. 
128 
225 

240 
280 
340 
400 
558 
642 
632 
753 
773 
810 


30 hours. 

4 days. 
6 days. 

V 8 days. 


$30 00 
30 00 
40 00 
40 00 
50 00 
40 00 
40 00 
40 00 
50 00 
50 00 
50 00 


Ocean Steamer. 


Eureka 


Trinidad 


ti 


Crescent City 


a 


Port Orford 


u 


Port TTmpqua 


t; 


Astoria 


u 


Portland 


u 


Vancouver. 


» 


Yictoria 


u 


Port Townsend 


» 


Seattle 


a 



12 



266 OAIIFOEOTA. 

STTMMAET OF EOUTES FKOM SAN FEANCISCO TO 



PLACE. 



Steilacoom , 

Olympia , 

Santa Cruz , 

Monterey 

San Luis Obispo, 
Santa Barbara. . . 

San Pedro 

Los Angeles.... 

San Diego 

Acapulco 

Panama 

New York 

San Qucntin.... 

Petaliima 

Hcaldsbui'g 

Geysers 

Sonoma 

Vallejo 

Napa 

Sulpliur Springs, 

Suisun 

Bcnicia 

Sacramento 

Stockton 

Alviso 

San Jose 

Eedwood City . . 

Visalia 

Fort Tejon 

Los Angeles 

Fort Yuma 

Tuclvson 

Mesilla 

EI Paso 

St. Louis 

Monterey 

Oakland 



DI8TAM-CE. 


TIME. 


FAP.E. 


KBMAEKS. 


Miles. 








836 

855 


i 8 days. 


$50 00 
50 00 


Ocean Steamer. 


80 




10 00 


a 


92 




12 00 


H 


200 




25 00 


» 


2S8 




80 00 


» 


373 




80 00 


(; 


395 




40 00 


(t 


456 




40 00 


tt 


1840 


8 days. 


100 00 


H 


8230 


16 " 


150 00 


» 




24 " 


250 00 


(; 


15 


l:i honrs. 


100 




48 


41 " 


3 00 




(32 
150 


5" « 


3 50 


i-Petalmna Steamer and Stage. 


12 " 


Stage & Trail 






from Petalu- 








ma. 


J 


45 


4i to 6 hrs. 


3 50 


Steamer. 


25 


2 to 8 " 


2 00 


" 


50 
(18 


4 to 5 " 
2 to 3 " 


8 00 
3 00 


•Napa Stfeamer and Stage. 


1 




From jVapa. 




CO 


5 toT " 


4 00 


Steamer. 


SO 


2 to 3 " 


1 00 to 2 00 


I " 


1-20 


6i to 12 " 


100 to 500 


i " 


120 


8 to 12 " 


5 00 


' u 


45 
52 


2ito3 " 
3Vto5 " 


2 00 
2 50 


■ steamer and Stage, 


54 


7* hours. 


3 50 


* 


30 


U " 


2 00 




243 


36- « 


20 00 




3T6 


56 " 


30 00 




401 


8 days. 


80 00 


Bntterfleld's OTCrland Stage 


779 


5h " 


70 00 


Eouto. 


lOCO 


8 " 


100 00 




1353 


9i " 


125 00 




1399 


10 « 


125 00 




2SS1 


21 " 


200 00 




130 


16 « 


9 00 


Stage from San Jose. 


8 


1 hour. 


25 


Steamer. 



SUMMAEY OF EOUTES FEOM STOCKTON TO 



PLACE. 



Mokelnmne Hill 
San Andreas .... 

Murphy's 

Big Trees 

Knight's Ferry . 

Sonora 

Columbia 

Coulterville 

Yo-Semite 

Mariposa 



DISTANCE. 


TIME. 


FAKE. 


Miles. 








50 


6 hours. 


$8 00 


45 


6 


Lb 


6 00 


66 


9 


(( 


8 00 to 10. 


81 


12 


it. 




86 


6 


(; 


5 00 


64 


12 


a 


10 00 


68 


12 


ti 


10 00 


85 


24 


(; 


12 00 to 15. 


130 








91 


25 


Li 


12 00 to 15. 



EBMAEK8. 



Stage. 
Mules from Murphy's $3 to 5 p. day. 



Stage. 



Mules from C. $3 to $5 per day. 
Stasre. 



OEEGOlSr. 
SUMMAJRT OF EOUTES FROM SAOEAMENTO TO 



26T 



PLACE. 


DISTAKCE. 


TIME. 


PAKE. 


KEMAKKS. 


Marysville -^ 


Miles. 
44 
64 

120 

275 

70 

40 

22 

35 

50 

110 

145 

163 

50 

55 

80 

45 

61 


6 hours. 
7 to 12 hrs. 
11 to 14 " 
26 to indef. 
12 hours. 
4 " 
1 " 
3 " 
6 " 

26 " 
80 " 

8 " 

9 « 
12 « 

8 " 

9 " 


$5 00 

4 00 

6 00 to S 00 

IS 00 to 20. 

12 00 

6 00 

2 00 

3.50 

6 00 

18 00 

26 00 

30 00 

6 00 

7 00 
12 00 

5 00 

6 00 


- 

y Steamhoat. 


Bed Bluff 




"NfAvadti 


, E, E. to Folsom, and thence Stage. 




Il * 




Eailroad. 




E. E. to Eolsom, and thence Stage, 


Plflcerville 


u 


Tjn,ke Biffler 


(I 




(( 


Virsinia City 


u 


Jackson 

]\Tolceliiiniie Hill 


[ stage. 




' u 


Stockton 


u 


]srapa 


c; 







SUMMAET OF EOUTES FEOM IIAETSVILLE TO 



PLACE. 


DISTANCE. 


TIME. 


FAEE. 


KEMAEKS. 




Miles. 

28 
92 
128 
236 
76 
40 
40 
23 


4 hours. 
13 " 
20 " 

2 days. 
15 hours. 
7 " 
6 " 

5 " 


$3 00 

15 00 
22 00 

16 00 
6 00 
6 00 
3 00 


■Stage.-, 
stage. 


'- 


Bed Bluff 








Yreka 








Nevada 




Auburn 




Colusa 









All the numerous mining towns in the counties of Calaveras, Tuolumne, Stanislaus, Merced, Mari- 
posa, &c., can be reached by eithec of the above routes, or by lines of coaches in connection with the 
above, departing and arriving with excellent despatch. 



OREGON. 

Oeegon was organized as a Territory August 16, 18^8, and was admitted into the Union as a State 
February 16, 1859. It lies upon the Pacific, with an area of 95,274 square miles. 

The first visit of the white race to Oregon was in 1775, when a Spanish voyager entered the Juan 
de Fuca Straits. Thi-ee years afterward (1778), the celebrated navigator. Captain Cook, sailed along its 
shores. In 1791 the waters of the Columbia Eiver were discovered by Captain Gray, of Boston. An 
expedition, or exploring party, was sent out in the year 1804 by the United States, commanded by Lewis 
and Clark, who wintered in lS05-'6 at the mouth of the Columbia. From this period the coast was a 
great resort of both English and American fur traders. 

By the treaty with Great Britain in 1846, this great territory, which had up to that time been jointly 
occupied by English and American adventurers, was divided — the one taking the portion above tha 
parallel of 49° north latitude, and the other aU the country south of that line. 



268 



OEEGON", 



Emigration to Oregon was earnestly commenced in 1S39. For some years tlie settlement of tha 
country was retarded by the more iDrilliant attractions of California, though the ultimate result of this 
neighborship will be a great means of development, as Oregon is an agricultural land, whose products 
will be required by the mining population of the lower State. 

"Washington Territory, on the north, was a part of Oregon until the year 1853, when it was erected 
into a distinct government. 

The coast of Oregon, viewed from the sea, is, like that of California, stern and rockbound, except- 
ing that while in the latter region the nearer mountains follow the line of the shore, in Oregon they 
approach the ocean at a great angle. The lower or Pacific country occupies an area of from 75 to 120 
miles wide, in which lie the great valleys of "Willamette, "CTmpqua, and Eogue rivers. 

Though the valley lands of the "Willamette and the adjacent regions are extremely fertile, yet the 
greater portion of Oregon is unfit for tillage, being, as it is, a country of untamed and untamable hills. 

The climate here, as on all the Pacific coast, is milder than in corresponding latitudes near the At- 
lantic. The winters are comparatively brief, and the snows, when snow falls at all, are very light. 

Gold is found in various parts of southern Oregon, and silver, lead, and copper in the Cascades 
Mountains. Coal is abundant at Coosa Bay and other points. 



Tlie Columbia River of Oregon, is the 
greatest on the Pacific slope of this Continent. It 
rises in a small lake among the western acclivities 
of the P.ocky Mountains, and flows in a de^^ous 
course 1,200 miles to the Pacific, forming a great 
portion of the dividing line between Oregon and 
'\Vashington Territory on the north. Its earliest 
meanderings are northward along the base of its 
great native hills, and afterwards its way is due 
west to the sea, though very capriciously. It is a 
rapid river, pushing its way through mighty moun- 
tain passes, and in many a cataract of marvellous 
beauty. In its course thi-ough the Cascade Eange, 
it falls into a series of charming rapids, which may 
be numbered among the chief natural attractions 
of the country. The tide sets up to this point, 140 
miles. For 30 or 40 miles from its mouth, the 
Columbia spreads out into a chain of bay-like ex- 
pansions, fi'om 4 to 7 miles or more in width. The 
shores arc lined with grand mountain heights, 
making the landscape everywhere extremely in- 
teresting and impressive. "We should far exceed 
our present opportunity in attempting even the 
briefest catalogue of the pictures on these noble 
waters. Vessels of 200 or 300 tons burden may 
ascend to the foot of the cascades, of which we 
have already spoken. Above this point the river 
is navigable for small vessels only, and but at in- 
tervals in its course. 

The ■Willamette River flows from the foot 
of the Cascade llange, 200 miles, first northwest 
and then north to the Columbia, S miles below 
Port Vancouver. Its way is through the beautiful 
valley lands which bear its name, and upon its 
banks are Oregon City, Portland, Corvallis, Eugene 
City, and other thriving places. Ocean steamers 
ascend 15 miles, to Portland. Ten miles beyond 
this point, a series of fine falls occur in the pas- 
sage of the river, above which the waters are again 



navigable, perhaps 60 miles, for small steamboats. 
The Falls of the "Willamette is a famous place for 
the capture of the finest salmon. Among the trib- 
utaries of the Willamette are the Tualatin, 
■yamhill. La Creole, Luckamute, Long Tom, Marys 
rivers, coming from the base of the Callepoosa and 
Coast PLange Mountains, and the McKenzie, San- 
tiam. Pudding, and Clackamus from the Cascade 
Eange. 

Tlie "Valley of the "Willamette is a most 
fertile region, and most attractive in its natural cu- 
riosities. Many remarkable examples are to be 
found here of those eccentric motmtain formations 
knoAvn as Beetlers — huge, conical, insulated hills. 
Near the mouth of the Coupe Elver, there are two 
of these heights which tower up 1,000 feet, but half 
a mile removed from each other at their base. 
They are called Pisgah and Sinai. They stand in 
the midst of a plain of many miles in extent. At 
a point near the Eickreall Elver, in the "Willamette 
Valley, no less than seven snow-capped peaks of 
the Cascade Eange may be seen. 

Between the Blue Mountains and the Cascade 
Eange lie a number of small lakes. 

Forest Trees.— Oregon, like California, is 
famous for its wonderful forest grovrth. The 
Lambert pine, a species of fir, sometimes reaches, 
in the lower part of the country, the magnificent 
height of 800 feet, 

Salem. — Hotels: — Bennett House; Marion 
Hotel. 

Salem, the capital of Oregon, is on the "Willa- 
mettS Elver, 50 miles above Oregon City. 

Oregon City. — Hotel: — United States 
Hotel. 



EAKSAS, 



269 



Oregon City, the former capital of the territory, 
is upon the "Willamette, hidden in a narrow, high- 
walled valley or canon. Falls on the river at this 
point afford great manufacturiug facilities to the 
groVing settlement. 



Portland.- 

'Wliat Cheer. 



-Hotels : — Metropolis ; Pioneer ; 



Portland, the largest and most important town 
in Oregon, with a population of about 2,000, is 
upon the "Willamette, at the head of s'nip navigation, 
15 miles from its entrance into the Columbia. 

St. Hellens is upon the west side of the 
Columbia, 30 miles from Portland. 

Astoria, named in honor of its founder, John 
Jacob Astor, is on the south side of the Colunabia 
Eiver, some ten miles from its mouth. This was 
at one time an important fur depot. 

EoTites. — Steamboats ply regularly between 
San Fi-ancisco and the landings on the Columbia, 
the "Willamette, and other rivers. There are also 
good stage routes to all points. 

From St. Louis to Oregon., through Pass in the 
Poalcy Mountains. 

BY STEAMBOAT. 



To St. Charles 

Gasconade River 74 

Osage River 32 

Jeffeeson City 10 

Booueville 63 



Lexington 100 909 

Independence 61 370 

Kansas River Landing 12 SS3 

BY LAND. 

To Kansas River Crossing 75 457 

Platte River 220 677 

Forts of River 15 692 

Chimney Rock 155 847 

Scott'sBluff 22 869 

FortLaramie 60 929 

RedBiitter 165 1084 

Rock Independence 50 1113 

South Pass (Fremont's) HO 1244 

Green River 69 1313 

Beer Springs 191 1504 

Fort Hall 60 1554 

American Falls 22 1676 

FishingFalls 125 1701 

Lewis River Crossing 40 1741 

FortBoisse 130 1871 

Burnt River '0 1941 

GrandRonde 68 2009 

Fort Walla Walla ^ 90 2099 

Umatiilah River , 25 2124 

John Day's River TO 2194 

FallsRivef 20 2214 

TheDalles 20 2234 

Cascades 46 2279 

Fort Vancouver 65 2334 

AsioKiA 100 2434 



40 
114 
146 
156 

209 1 lumbia. 



Or, from St. Louis, by the Missouri Eiver, to 
Fort Benton, and thence by the new Military 
road, 400 miles, to the navigable waters of the Co- 



KANSAS. 



Kansas was admitted into the Union as a State on the 29th January, 1S61. It has an area of 
80,000 square miles. Capital, Topeta. 

"The face of this country," says a traveller, "is beautiful beyond all comparison. The prairies, 
though broad and expansive, stretching away miles in many places, seem never lonely or wearisome, 
being gently undulating, or more abruptly rolling ; and, at the ascent of each new roll of land, the 
traveller finds himself in the midst of new loveliness. There are also high bluffs, usually at some 
little distance from the rivers, running through the entire length of the country, while ravines run 
from them to the rivers. These are, at some points, quite deep and difficult to cross, and, to a travel- 
ler unacquainted with the country, somewhat vexatious, especially where the prairie grass is as high 
as a person's head, while seated in a carriage. There is little trouble, however, if travellers keep back 
from the "water-courses, and near the high lands. These ravines are, in many instances, pictures of 
b/viuty, with tall, gTaceful trees, cotton-wood, black walnut, hickory, oak, elm, and linwood, standing 
near, while springs of pure cold water gush from the rock. The bluffs are a formation unknown, in 
form and appearance, in any other portion of the "West. At a little distance, a person could scarcely 
realize that art had not added her finishing touches to a work, which nature had made singularly beau- 
tiful. Many of the bluffs appear like the cultivated grounds about fine old residences within the 
Eastern States, terrace rising above terrace, with great regularity; while others look like forts in the 
distance. In the eastern part of the State, most of the timber is upon the rivers and creeks. 



270 



KANSAS. 



though there are in some places most delightful spots ; high hiUs, crowned "with a heavy growth of 
trees, and deep vales, where rippling waters gush amid a dense shade of flowering shrubbery. 

" Higher than the bluffs are natural mounds, which also have about them the look of ai't. They 
rise to such a height as to be seen at a great distance, and add peculiar beauty to the whole appearance 
of the country. Prom the summit of these the prospect is almost unlimited in estent, and unrivalled 
in beauty. The prairie for miles, with its gently undulating rolls, lies before the eye. Elvers, glisten- 
ing in the sunlight, flow on between banks crowned with tail trees ; — beyond these, other high points 
arise. Trees are scattered here and there, like old orchards, and cattle in large numbers are grazing 
upon the hill-side and in valleys, giving to all the look of cultivation and home-life. It is, indeed, 
difiicult to realize that for thousands of years this country has been a waste, uncultivated and solitary, 
and that months only have elapsed since the white settler has sought here a home. 

" The climate is exceedingly lovely. "With a clear, dry atmosphere, and gentle, health-giving breezes, 
it cannot bo otherwise. The peculiar clearness of the atmosphere cannot be imagined by a non-resi- 
dent. For miles here a person can clearly distinguish objects, which at the same distance in any other 
part of this country he could not see at all. The summers are long, and winters short. 

" The winters are usually very mild and open, with little snow, — none falling in the night, sava 
what the morrow's sun will quickly cause to disappear. So mild are they that the cattle of the In- 
dians, as those of the settlers in Western Missouri, feed the entire year in the prairies and river-bot- 
toms. The Indians say that once in about seven years Kansas sees a cold and severe winter, with 
snows of a foot in depth. Two weeks of cold weather is called a severe winter. Then the spring-like 
weather comes in February ; the earth begins to grow warm, and her fertile bosom ready to receive 
the cai-e of the husbandman." 



The Kansas River, the largest stream of 
this region, excepting the Missomi, which washes 
its northeastern boundary, is formed by the Ee- 
publican and the Smoky Hills Forks, which rise in 
the Eocky Mountains, and unite their waters at 
Fort Eiley. The length of the Kansas, including 
its branches, is nearly 1,000 miles. Its course is 
through a productive valley region or plain, cover- 
ed vnth forest trees, and vai-ied here and there with 
picturesque bluffs and hills. The Kansas Eiver is 
a tributary of the Missouri, and steamboats ascend 
from its mouth, 120 miles to Fort Eiley. 

The Platte Kiver rises in the Eocky Moun- 
tains in two arms, called the North and the South 
Falls, and runs 1,'200 miles into the Missouri. It 
is navigable at high water for hundreds of miles, 
though it is usually shallow, as its name implies. 
It aboimds in islands, and in some places spreads 
over a breadth of three miles. 

The Arkansas River has nearly half its 
course within the Berders of Kansas. The Osage 
Eiver flows nearly eastward, 500 miles to the Mis- 
souri, ten miles below Jefl'erson City. 

Kansas City.— Hotels :— 

Kansas City is upon the Missouri Eiver, about 
2S0 miles west of St. Louis, by the Pacific EaU- 
way, which is already in operation some 163 miles. 
The town may be readily reached by rail to St. 
Joseph, on the Missouri, and thence by boats. 



Kansas City is the point at which all goods to go 
up the Kansas Eiver are transshipped. 

Leavenworth City.— Hotels: — 

Leavenworth, one of the most important places 
in Kansas, is upon the Missouri Eiver, about mid- 
way between St. Joseph and Kansas City. 

EoTJTES. From the East, by railway to St. 
•Joseph, and thence down the river ma Atchison, 
or by steamer, up the Missouri fi'om St. Louis. 

Wyandotte City is at the confluence of the Mis- 
souri and the Kansas. Kickapoo is 15 miles fur- 
ther north. Atchison is yet 20 miles above, at the 
mouth of Independence Creek, and Doniphan is 
20 miles yet further up. 

Lawrence City, Douglass, Tecumseh, and Whit- 
fl.eld are upon the Kansas River. 

Elm Grove, Coimcil City, and Council Grove 
are upon the Santa Fe Trail. 

Routes to Kansas. — From St. Louis, by the 
Pacific Eailway (following the course of the Mis- 
som'i Eiver), ICS miles to Syracuse; thence to 
Kansas City, on the Missouri. Total distance from 
New Tork, 1,272 miles. Distance from St. Louis, 
by steamer on the Missouri, 480 miles. Or, by the 
North Missouri Eailway, 304 miles from St. Louis 
to St. Joseph, on the east bank of the Missouri 
Eiver ; or, from Hannibal, on the Mississippi, 206 
miles to St. Joseph. 

St. Joseph is now a great starting poiat for the 



WASHINaTOK- — NEBRASKA. 



271 



farthest West. Tlie Great Salt Lake Mail, the new 
Pony Express, and the Pike's Peak Express, all 
start thence. 



Distances and Names op Places between St. 
Louis and Eokt Leatenwokth, and also the 
Mouth of the Yellow Stone bt Steamboat. 

To Cabris Island 3 

Chouteau's Island 7 10 

Mouth of tlie "Wood River 5 15 

Missouri River 3 18 

St.Charles 22 40 

New Port 46 86 

Pinlmey 7 93 

Mouth of Gasconade River 21 114 

Portland 10 124 

Mouth of Osage River 21 145 



To Jeitpekson Citv 9 154 

Marion 16 170 

Nashville lu 180 

Rocheport 14 194 

Booneville 10 204 

Arrow Rock 15 219 

Chariton 10 235 

Mouth of Grand River 26 261 

Lexington 50 311 

Blayton IS 329 

FortOsage 13 342 

Liberty 18 360 

Mouth of Kansas River 15 375 

Mouth of Little Platte River 12 387 

Leatenwoeth Ciiy 38 425 

Eialto 3 42S 

Weston 7 435 

St.Joseph 15 460 

FortPierre 1010 1460 

Mouth of Yellow Stone 403 1863 



WASHINGTON 

Tms Territory was organized March 2, 1853, with an area of 71,800 square miles. 

It occupies the extreme northwestern part of the national domain. The recent erection of the ter 
ritory of Idaho has greatly reduced its original extent, taking from it much of the western section. 
One of the chief sources of wealth to the inhabitants is in the utilization of their immense forests of 
fir, and spruce, and cedar ; and another in the working of the mineral fields which are found in the 
region. 

The forests abound in elk, deer, and other noble game. Wild fowl also, of many varieties, are plen- 
tiful ; and in no part of the world are finer fish to be had. 

The rivers of Washington are rapid mountain streams, replete with picturesque beauty, in bold 
rocky cliffs and precipices and in charming cascades. 



Olympia, the capital of the territory, is upon 
Tenalquet's or Strule's River, at its entrance into 
Puget's Sound, in the extreme western or Pacific 
section. 



Routes to the settlements in Washington, are 
by steamboats from San Francisco, along the coast 
and to points on the Columbia Eiver. 



NEBRASKA. 

Nebeaska was organized as a Territory May 80, 1854. Its present area is C8,S00 square miles, 
though it formerly embraced a very large region — ^reduced now by the erection of newer Territories 
from portions of its original domain. 

Its mineral resources are now being rapidly developed; and its fertile valley lands are being turned 
to such account, that the present growth of the country is extremely promising of future power and 
wealth. 



Omaha, the capital of the Territory, is upon 
the Missouri Eiver, opposite Council Bluffs City. 
Bellevue is upon the ISfebraska, 6 miles above its 
mouth. Port Calhoun is 18 miles north of Omaha. 
Florence is 6 miles north of Omaha. La Platte is 
on the Missouri, 14 miles below the Capital. Platts- 
mouth is the first town south of the mouth of the 
Nebraska. Still further south, and along the banks 



of the Missouri, are Bluff Eock, Kenosha, Nebras- 
ka City, Kearney City, and Brownsville ; north 
of the Nebraska, and beyond the places which we 
have already mentioned, are De Soto, Tekama, and 
Black Bird. 

The chief interior settlements are Archer and 
Pawneeville, upon afliuents of the Great Nehama 
Saliue, on the Big Blue Eiver; Magaretta, near th« 



212 



TJTAH. 



south bend of the Nebraslca ; Iron Bluffs, ElKhorn 
City, Fontenello, and Catherine, on Elkhorn Eiver ; 
Pawnee, on Loup Fork ; Manitou and Hauton in 
the countjf north of the Nebraska Eiver. 

The population of Nebraska was estimated at 
40,000 iu 1863. 

EoTites.— The best route to Nebraska, at pres- 
ent, is from St. Lonis, by railway to St. Joseph. 
See St. Louis for route thither from the Atlantic 
cities ; and see Kansas for route and table of places 
and distances from St. Louis to Fort Leavenworth. 



From St. Louis to Omaha {opposite Council 
Bluffs) on Missouri Biver, hy Steamboat. 



To Fort Leavenworth, as in Route to Kansas \ 
from St. Louis, see Kansas J ' 
AVeston 



425 
434 



St. Joseph 60 4?«' 

Nodaway River 14 SOS 

Wolf River 16 6!!4 

Great Neraahaw River 18 642 

Nishnebotna River 25 567 

Little Nemshaw River 12 679 

Fair Sun Island 16 595 

Lower Oven Island 12 607 

XJlDper Oven Island 4 611 

Five Barrellsland 12 623 

Platte River 16 638 

Bellevne Trading-house 12 650 

Omaha — opposite Council Bluffs 40 690 

There is a route to Omaha City now in vogue 
from Burlington, on the Mississippi (see Burling- 
ton, Iowa), 31 miles, by railway, to Mount Pleasant, 
Iowa; and thence across by stages to Council 
Bluffs and Omaha, on the Missouri. Eailway lines 
are in course of consti-uction over this course. 



UTAH. 

Utaii formerly extended some 700 miles from east to west, and 847 miles from north to south ; but 
this vast region has been greatly reduced by the recent formation of other territories within and around 
it. Its present area is 109,000 square miles, its population, 88,193. 

It is a country of elevated, sterile table-lands, divided in unequal parts by the Sierra Madre Moun- 
tains. The Great Basin, or Fremont's Basin, as it is otherwise called, extends over the western part, 
500 miles from east to west, and 350 from north to south. This vast tract lies at an elevation of nearly 
5,000 feet above the sea. Some portion of it is covered by a yielding mass, composed of sand, salt, and 
clay, and others with a crust of alkaline and saline substance. Great hills surround it on all sides, and 
detached groups cross its whole area. Near the centre it is traversed by the Humboldt Paver Moun- 
tains, which rise from 5,000 to 7,000 feet above the adjacent country. There are other great valley 
sti-etches in Utah, more sterile even than the Great Basin, as that lying between the Kocky and the 
"Wahsatch Mountains. Only a small portion of this wide region can be tiu-ned to account in agricul- 
tural uses. The little fertile land it possesses, is that which skirts the streams and narrow trac ts at 
the base of the mountain ranges. The most productive portion is that probably of the valleys extend- 
ing north and south, west of the 'Wahsatch Mountains, and which is occupied by the Mormon settle- 
ments. 



Tlie Cliraate of Utali is said to resemble 
that of the great Tartar plains of Asia, the days in 
summer time being exceedingly hot and the nights 
cool. The winters are mild, and but little accom- 
panied with snow. The temperatm'e is liable to 
great and quick transitions from the changing cur- 
rents of the winds. 

The Great Salt Lake is perhaps the most 
remarkable of all the many natural wonders of 
these rude and desolate wilds. This singular body 
of water lies northeast of the centre of the terri- 
tory. It is some 70 miles long and 80 wide. It is 
so highly impregnated with salt that no life is 
found in it, and a thick saline incrustation is de- 
posited upon its banks by evaporation in hot 
weather ; and yet all its tributary waters are fresh. 



In some of its features, as in the wild and weird 
aspect of much of the surrounding scenery, it has 
been compared to the Dead Sea of Palestine. 

TJtah. Lake is a body of fresh water some 85 
miles in length. It lies south of the Great Salt 
Lake, to which it is tributary, by the channel of 
the connecting river called the Jordan. Like its 
saline neighbor, the Utah Lake is elevated about 
450 feet above the level of the sea. It is abundantly 
supplied with fine trout and other fish. 

The Pyramid Lake lies on the slope of the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, 700 feet yet above the 
Great Salt Lake. It is enclosed everywhere by 
giant rocky precipices, which rise vertically to the 
sublime height of 8,000 feet. From the bosom of 
the translucent waters of this wonderful lake, 



NEW MEXICO. 



2V3 



there springs a strange pyramidal rock 600 feet in 
air. 

In the interior of the territoi-y there are other 
smaller ponds, as Nicollet Lake, near the centre, 
and 70 miles yet southward, Lake Ashley. Mud, 
Pyramid, "Walker''s and Carson's Lakes are near 
the eastern hase of the Sierra Nevada Mountains; 
Humholdt's Lake, formed by the waters of the 
Humbolt Eiver, is about 60 miles east of Pyi-amid 
Lake. 

The Boiling- Spring's is a scene of curious 
interest. The principal basin is described by Col. 
Fremont as having a circumference of several hun- 
dred feet, with a circular space at one extremity 
45 feet in circuit, filled with boiling water. The 
temperature near the edge was found to be 206°. 

Canons. Near Brown's Hole, in the vicinity 
of Green Eiver, there are many of those singular 
ravines of the Great West, known as Canons. They 
are sudden depressions in the surface of the earth, 
sometimes of a vertical depth of 1,500 feet. Noth- 
ing can be mrore surprising and more grand than 
the pictures presented in these strange passages ; 
the effect, too, is always heightened by the unex- 
pected manner in which the traveller comes upon 
them, as no previous intimation is afforded, by the 
topography of the land, of their proximity, 

Utah is famous as the home of the Mormons. 
This extraordinary people pitched their tents here 
in 18iT, after they were driven out of Illinois and 
Missouri. They are the sole occupants of the re- 
gion, excepting the native Indian tribes. They 
seem to be a prosperous and increasing communi- 
ty ; for an-entimeration of their numbers made in 



1863, exhibits a population of over 88,000, exclusive 
of the Indians. At present new accessions are 
being made, and new settlers are daily wending 
their way thither from all quarters of the world. 

The chief town of Utah is Great Salt Lake 
City, on the shores of its strange namesake wa- 
ters. The population here is perhaps 8,000 or 
9,000. A magnificent temple is to be erected for 
the celebration of the rites of the Mormon wor 
ship. 

Besides Salt Lake City, the other principal set- 
tlements are Brownsville, Provo, Ogden, Manti, 
and Fillmore cities and Parovan. 

Pillmore City is the capital of the territory. 
It is situated on the Nuquin, a branch of the Ni- 
collet river. It is 1,200 miles west of St. Louis and 
600 miles east by north of San Francisco. 

Brownsville is on the east side of the Great 
Salt Lake. 

Prove City is about 60 mUes south-southeast 
of Salt Lake City. 

Ogden City is 185 miles north of Fillmor, 
City, the capital of the territory. 

Ifflanti is 40 miles east-southeast of the cap- 
ital. 

Parovan is 110 miles south-southwest of Fill- 
more City. 

Utah will no doubt soon seek admission into 
the Union as a State, and then will come under 
particular and universal consideration the institu- 
tion of Polygamy, by the assertion and practice of 
which as a religious and political tenet, the people 
are more especially distinguished from those of all 
other parts of the Republic. 



NEW MEXICO. 



Ne-w Mexico is a portion of the territory ceded to the United States by the treaty with Mexico 
of 1848 and of 1854. It was organized as a Territory September 9, 1850. Its area is, at present (as reduc- 
ed by the subsequent formation of new territories), 124,450 square mUes. It lies west of Northern 
Texas, with Colorado on the north. 

Like the adjacent country, it is a region of high table-lands, crossed by mountain ranges, and barren 
to the last degree. 

In the eastern part of this Territory are the valleys of the Bio Grande and its tributary waters 
skirting the base of various chains of the Pocky Mountains ; as the Sierra Madre range, the Jumanes, 
and the Del Cabello. Mount Taylor, among the SieiTa Madre, is said to rise 10,000 feet above the val- 
ley of the Eio Grande, which is itself a table-land of many thousand feet elevation. 

Valuable mineral deposits exist in New Mexico— gold, silver, and other metals — though the re- 
sources of the mines have not yet been very much developed. 

New Mexico is full of wonderful natural curiosities and beauties, though but a few of its many sur- 
prising scenes have been yet explored. Immense canons exist among the mountains of the Sierra 
Nevada ; deep ravines, where rivers flow in darkness hundreds of feet down below the surface of the 
valleys. Eed and white sandstone bluffs, too, abound ; grand and lofty perpendicular precipices of 
rocks, wearing every varying semblance of clifT-lodged castle and fortress. 



274 



COLOEADO. 



"Waterfalls of surprising beauty are scattered 
tlirough the mountain fastnesses. The Cascade 
Grotto is described as a scries of falls, which, com- 
ing from a mineral spring in the hills,- leap from 
cliff to cliff, a thousand feet down to the Gila be- 
low. A wonderful cavern, in which are some cu- 
rious petrefactions, may be entered beneath the 
iirst of these cascades. 

Two marvellous falls have been discovered in 
the Eio Vii-gen, one of which, 200 miles from its 
mouth, has a perpendicular descent of 1,000 feet. 

The present inhabitants of New Mexico consist 
chiefly of domesticated nomad Indians, with a 
sprinkling of Mexicans and Americans. , Emigra- 
tion from the States has not yet turned much in 
this direction. 

The chief towns are Santa Fe, with a population 
of about 5,000, La Cuesta, St. Miguel, Las Vejas, 
Zuni, Tuckelata and Mesilla. 

Santa Fe.— Hotels:— 

Santa F6 is the capital of the Territory. It is 
situated on the Eio Chicito, or the Santa Fe Eiver, 
20 miles from its entrance into the Eio Grande. It 
is the great depot of the overland trade, which has 
been carried on for 30 or 40 years past with Mis- 
soui-i. The town is built on a plateau elevated 
7,000 feet above the sea, and surrounded by snow- 
capped mountains, 5,000 feet yet higher. The peo- 
ple are but a miserable set, and their home recom- 
mends itself to the stranger scarcely more than 
they do themselves. The houses here, as else- 
where iu the region, are built of dark adodes or 
unburnt bricks. Each building usually forms a 
Bquare, in the interior of which is a court, upon 
which all the apartments open. The only entrance 
is made of sufficient size to admit animals with 
their burdens. 

Route from Independence City, in JxTissowi, to 
Santa Fe. 

From Independence City, in Slissouri, to the ) „„ 

Kans;i3 Boundary | • . . . 
ToLoneElm 7 29 



Round Grove 6 S5 

The Narrows 30 65 

Blackjack 3 68 

One-hiindred-and-ten-mile Creek 32 100 

Switzler's Creek 9 109 

Dragoon Creek 5 114 

Several creeks are then crossed, after -which 

Big John Spring 34 148 

Council Grove 1 J49 

Kaw Village and Placeto, in Council Grove 1 150 

Sylvan Camp, in Council Grove 2 152 

Willow Spring 6 153 

Dianaond Spring 13 171 

Lost Spring 16 187 

Cottonwood Fork of Grand River 12 199 

Turkey Creek 29 223 

Mud Creek 19 247 

Little Arkansas 3 250 

Cow Creek £0 270 

Plum Buttes 14 284 

Great Bend of the Arkansas 2 286 

The trail then ascends the northern bank of the 
Arkansas River for 130 miles. 

WalnutCreek 7 293 

Pawnee Rock 14 307 

Ash Creek G 313 

Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas 6 319 

Coon Creek 33 352 

Caches 36 3S8 

Old Fort Mann 14 402 

Fort Sumner 4 406 

Ford of the Arkansas 10 416 

Jomado to Sand Creek 49 466 

Lower Spring, on the Cimarron 11 476 

Jliddle Spring, on the Cimarron 37 513 

Willow Bar 28 543 

Upper Spring, on the Cimarron 17 560 

Cold Springs 6 566 

McNees' Creek 26 692 

Rabbit-ear 19 611 

Round Mound 8 619 

Rock Creek 13 632 

Point of Rocks 17 649 

Rio Colorado 20 669 

Ocate 7 676 

Wngon Mound 19 695 

Santa Clara Spring 2 697 

Fort Barclaj-, on Rio Mora 22. 719 

Los Vegas, on Rio Gallinas 19 733 

NaturalGate 6 744 

OjodeBernal 11 765 

San Miguel 8 763 

Pecos Ruins 26 787 

SantaFe 25 812 



COLOEADO. 



CoLOEADO wa3 organized as a Territory March 2, 1861. Its area is 106,475 square miles. It lies 
directly west of Kansas, and comprises the western pai-t of the old Territory of Kansas, and portions 
of the former Territories of Nebraska, New Mexico, and Utah. 

The estimated population of Colorado, in 1863, was 55,000, exclusive of 15,000 tribal Indians. This 
number is continually increasing, as is the population of all the newly-organized territories, by the 
tmwonted emigration which is everywhere following the brilliant attractions of the great gold and 
sUver mines of the region, of which new and more wonderful revelations are being made from week 
to week. 



NEVADA — DAKOTAH. 



275 



Golden City, tlie territorial capital of Colo- 
rado, has a population of about 1,000. It is situated 
at the base of the mountains, 15 miles from Denver. 

Denver, the chief town of Colorado, is at the 
South Fork of the Platto Biver, 15 miles from the 
base of the Eocky Mountains. It is a busy and 
prosperous city, with a present population of about 
6,000. It possesses a U. S. branch Mint, daily 
newspapers, churches, and schools, and other ad- 
juncts of a much older settlement than is any one 
of the towns in this far-off portion of the national 
domaiiL 

Central City, Nevada City, and Black Hawk, are 
settlements in the mountains 40 miles west of 
Denver. They are in the region of the chief lode 
mines, known as the Gregory mines. Each of 
these places is said to contain a population of 5,000. 



Empire City, on the north clear creek, 15 
miles from Central City, is in a rich lode mining 
region. Its population is 1,000. 

Colorado City is near the base of Pike's Peak, 
on Fontaine Que Bouille, a tributary of the Ar- 
kansas. It is 100 miles south of Denver. 

Hamilton, Montgomery, and Tony, are situated 
100 miles west of Denver among the southwest- 
ern lode mines. They are all growing settlements. 

Canon City is on the Arkansas, 120 miles 
south of Denver. Pueblo is 40 miles below Canon 
City, and 100 S. "W. of Denver. 

Other thriving settlements are found upon the 
western slope of the Snowy Eange mountains, 
among the silver mines and the quartz lode mines 
of that region. 



NEVADA. 

Nevada was organized as a Territery on the 2d of March, 1861. Its area is estimated to be 885,000 
Bquara miles, lying directly east of California and west of Utah. In 1862 it had a population of 40,000. 



Carson City, the Territorial capital, has a 
population of 2,500. 

Virginia, the chief business depot, is said to 
liave had a population of 10,000 in November, 1863. 

The population of Silver City in 1863, was 1,000, 
and of Ookl Hill, 1 ,500. The other principal towns 
and settlements are, Washoe City, Ophir, Star 
City, Uiiionville, Rurnboldt, Dayton, Genoa, 
Aurora, and Austin. 

All the Territory of Nevada abounds in rich 
stores of mineral wealth, including gold, silver, 
.quicksilver, lead, antimony, and other precious 
metals. 

The finest silver deposits in the United States 
are said to exist in Storey County, in this Territory ; 
and the silver mines of Lander County are report- 
ed to have increased the population there several 
thousands during the lapse of a single year. 

The mining region of Nevada is described as an 
elevated semi-desert country; its surface a con- 
stant succession of longitudinal mountain ranges, 
with intervening valleys and plains, most of which 
are independent basins, hemmed in by mountains 
on all sides, and the whole system without drain- 
age to the sea. The general elevation of these 



valleys is over 4,500 feet above the sea ; and the 
mountains rise from 1,000 to 4,000 feet, and in soine 
instances to 8,000 feet high. 

The principal mining districts of Nevada are. 

First. The Yirginia District, including Virginia 
City and the eastern slope of Mount Davidson, 
Cedar Hill, and the upper part of six mile Caflon. 

Second. The Gold Hill District south of Mount 
Davidson, including Gold Hill and the Gold Hill 
vein. 

Third. The Devil's Gate District, in which is 
embraced Silver City and the mines on the sides 
of the lower part of Gold Canon, and beyond the 
Carson Eiver. 

Besides these principal districts, there are the 
Florence District, the Argentine, the Sullivan, and 
the Galena. To the southward, the Esmeralda and 
the Mono regions are divided into two districts. 
Walker's Eiver District and the Paciiic Coal Dis- 
trict are on "Walker's Eiver. The Prince Eoyal, 
the Castle, and the Antelope are names of districts 
in the Humboldt Mountains region, in the eastern 
portion of the Territory. New districts are con- 
tinually being set off as the number of adventur- 
ers increase and extend over the land. 



DAKOTAH. 



Daxotah was organized as a territory March 2, 1861. It has an area of 153,000 square miles, lying 
directly west of Minnesota and of the north western part of Iowa. It has absorbed much of the 
western part of the old Territory of Minnesota, and of the eastern part of Nebraska. 



276 IDAHO. — AEIZOITA, 



Yankton, the territorial capital, is on the 
Missouri Eiver, 65 miles from the Iowa line, and 
nearly due west from Chicago. The other princi- 
pal settlements are Big Sioux Point, Elk Point, 
Maley Creek, Vermillion, Bonhomme, Greenwood, 
and Port Eandall. 

Large quantities of valuahle furs and peltries 
are obtained from this region; and recently, indica- 



'kThe climate of Dakotah is healthful and genial, 
and the soil is well suited to agricultural and graz- 
ing purposes, being rich in the yield of grain, fruits, 
and vegetables. 

The Yankton and the Ponca Indians, also the 
■Winebago, the Sioux, and the Santee tribes (recent- 
ly removed from Minnesota), have extensive res- 
ervations on the Missoui-i Eiver and Niobrara above 



tions have appeared of the existence, in the Black Yankton. They are reported to have become do- 
Hills, 300 miles west from Yankton, of good sup- mesticated, and to be devoting themselves to agri- 
plies of gold, iron, and coal. | culture and stock-raising. 



IDAHO. 

Idaho was organized as a Ten-itory March S, 1S63. Its area is estimated to be 883,200 square miles. 
It is formed from the eastern halves of the old Washington and Oregon Territories, the western half 
of Nebraska, and a small part of northern Utah. It extends from Utah and Colorado on the south to 
the British possessions on the north. 

It is said that the Indian word Idaho is, in English, " a star ;" and again, that it stands for " the gem 
of the mountains." The Idaho region includes the rich gold fields of Salmon Eiver, a stream of re- 
markably picturesque beauty, flowing, here and there, between grand perpendicular walls varying in 
height from 500 to 2,000 feet. 

The very recent and rapid settlement of Idaho, commenced within two or three years past, has 
gro'vvn out of the gold discoveries in the neighboring British possessions. These discoveries attracted 
thousands of adventurers from California, who soon afterwards pushed their explorations toward east- 
ern Oregon and western Idaho. From that period to the present, a steady and increasing torrent of 
emigration has set thitherward, and the resources of the land are being daily revealed and utilized, 
both in its mineral stores and its capacities in soil, climate, &c. Settlements are rapidly gro^wng up, 
roads are being constructed, the waters are navigated, schools and churches are appearing, with all 
other adjuncts of permanent and progressive civilization. 

The mineral resources of Idaho, even as at present known, compare well with the other great mining 
portions of the great Eocky Mountain region. Gold is found in most of the tributaries of the Mis- 
souri and the Yellow Stone. Platina, too, has been obtained in small quantities, while extensive do- 
posits of this valuable metal are supposed to exist. Copper, and iron, and salt are abundant ; and coal 
is foimd upon the Pacific slope of the Eocky Mountains, and on the upper Missouri and Yellow Stone 
rivers. 

The climate of the Idaho region is bleak in the mountain ranges, but mild and agreeable in the 
valley districts. 



AEIZONA. 

Akizona was organized as a Territory February 24, 1S63. Its area is estimated to be 130,800 square 
miles. It is formed from a portion of the old Territory of New Mexico, and is bounded by Mexico on 
the south, on the west by the Colorado Eiver and California, and on the north by Utah and Nevada. 

The Commissioner of the General Land Office, in his Eeport to Congress in December, 1S63, says 
of this region, that it " is believed to be stocked with mineral wealth beyond that of any other Terri- 
tory of equal extent in the great plateau between the Eocky Moimtains and the Sierra Nevada," 

No census of the population of Arizona has yet been made. 

Kontana is the name of a new Territory which is being organized as we now write. 



INDEX 



Aberdeen, Miss., 199. 

Acapuloo, Harbor of, (Voyage to San Franeisco 

from New York,) 252. 
Adams, Mass., 60. 
Adirondack Mountains, N" T., 115. 
Alabama, State of, 194. 
Alabama, tiie Hill Region, 195. 
Alabama River, 194. 
Alabama, Mineral Springs, 195. 
Alabama, Railways, 195. 
Alabaster Mountain, Ark., 213. 
Albany, N. Y., 94. 
Alexandria, Va., 148. 
AUentown, Pa., 129. 
Alton, 111., 234. 
Almanac, Tlie Traveller's, 23. 
Amherst, Mass., 56. 
Amicalolah Falls, Ga., 192. 
Andover, 54. 

Androscoggin River, Me., 45. 
Annapolis River, N. S., 40. 
Annapolis, Md.,138. 
Ann Arbor, Mich., 237. 
Appalachioola, Fla., 183 
Arkansas, State of, 212. 

Rivers, 213. 

Towns, 213. 
Arkansas River 213. 
Arizoriii Ten, 276. 

" Ashland," Home of Clay, Lexington, Ky., 219. 
.Aspinwall, 251. 
Astoria, L. I., 81. 
Astoria, Or., 265. 
Athens, Ga., 189. 
Atlanta, Ga., 189. 
Atlantic City, N. J., 122. 
Auburn, N. Y. Central Railway, 109. 
Auburn, Cal., 257. 
Augusta, Me., 45. 
Augusta, Ga., Routes thence, 188. 
Austin, Tex., 212. 
Avon Springs, N. Y., 117. 



B 



Ballston Springs, 103. 
Baltimore and Vicinity, 136. 

Cemeteries, 137. 

Churches, 137. 



Baltimore Hotels, 136. 

Monuments, 133. 
Public Edifices, 137. 
Theatres, 137. 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 140. 
Baltimore to Philadelphia, 123. 
Baltimore to Washington, 146. 
Bangor, Me., 44. ■ . 

Batesville, Ark., 214. 
Bath, Me., 45. 
Baton Rotige, La., Home of General Taylor, 

204. 
Battle of the Brandywine, 123. 
Battle of Guilford Court House, jST. C, 167. 
Battle of Long Island, 118. 
Battle of Trenton, 121. 
Battle of Wyoming, 134. 
Beaufort, 8. C, 172. 
Belfast, Me., 45. 
Bellows Fails, Vt., 57. 
Beloit, Wis., 246. 
Bethlehem, Pa., 130. 

Bennington, Vt., Battle of Bennington, 74, 
Beverly, Mass., 53. 
Beverly, on the Delaware, 122. 
Big Black River, Ala., 198. 
Binghamton, N". Y. and Erie Railroad, 98. 
Birthplace of Henry Clay, 154. 
Birthplace of Washington, 153. 
Black Mountain, N". C, 167. 
Black Warrior River, Ala., 195. 
Blowing Cave, Va., 163. 
Blue Lick Springs, Ky., 220. 
Boston, Routes from New York, 48. 
Boston, City of, 50. 

Cambridge and Harvard, 52. 

Churches, 52. 

The Common, 51. 

East Boston, 50. 

Faneuil Hall, 51. 

History, 50. 

Hotels, 50. 

Public Edifices, 51. 

South Boston, 50. ■ 

State House, 51. 

Theatres, 52. 

The Vicinage, 52. 
Bordentown, K. J., 121. 
Brandon, Vt., 74. 
Brattleborough, Vt., 57. 
Brazos Bivei% Tex., 210. 
Bridgeport, Conn., 48. 



2T8 



INDEX. 



JJrighton, near Boston, 54. 
Bristol, 131. 
British America, 25. 
Brooklyn, N. T., 82. 

Atlantic Dock, S3. 

Churches, 33. 

Fjjbrries fi-om 'New York, 83. 

Hotels, 82. 

Public Buildings, 83. 

U. S. Navy T.ard, 82. 
Brown University, Providence, E. I., 61. 
Brownsville, Tax., 213. 
Bruns-svicli, Me., 45. 
Budd's Lake, N. J., 122. 
Buffalo, N. T., 110. 
Buffalo Hunting, Nebraska Terr., 271. 
Bull's Ferry, Hudson Eiver, 85. 
Bunker's Hill, Boston, 52. 
Burlington, Vt., 107. 
Burlington, N. J., 122. 
Burlington, lo., 242. 

C. 

Caledonia Springs, Canada, 29. 
California, History and Topography, 250. 
California, Voyage up the Coast, 204. 
California, Tables of Routes from San Francisco, 
Sacramento City, Stockton, and MarysvUle, to 
all other points in the State, 2C5. 
Camden and Amboy Railway, 121. 
Camden, opposite Philadelphia, 132. 
Camden, S. C, 175. 
Camden, Ark., 214. 
Camel's Hump Mountain, Vt., 72. 
Campton and "West Campton, N. H., 67. 
Canandaigua Lake, N. T., 110. 
Canandaigua, N. Y. Central Railw.ay, 110. 
Canada — Its Geography and Area ; Discovery, Set- 
tlement, and Rulers; Government; Religion; 
Landscape ; Mountains ; and Rivers, 26. 
Canada Railways, 29. 
Cape Cod and the Sea Islands, 55. 
Cape Ginu-deau, Mo., 241. 
Cape Mav, N. J., 123. 
Carlisle, Pa., 134. 
Carondelet, Mo., 341. 
Carquinez, Straits of, Cal., 254. 
Carson Valley, 258. 

Cascade Bridge, N. Y. and Erie Railroad, 97. 
Cascade Range. Oregon, 265. 
Castine, Me., 45. 

Catawissa, on the Susquehanna, Pa., 134. 
Cfltskill Village, Hudson River, 93. 
CatskiU Mountaias (the). Routes thither, 100. 

The High Falls, 101. 

The High Peak, 102. 

The Mountain House, 100. 

The Plauterkill Clove, 103. 

The Stony Clove, 102. 
Catskill Mountains (the). The Two Lakes, 101. 
Candy's Castle, Va., 164. 
Cayuga, N. Y. Central Railway, 109. 
Cayuga Lake, N. Y., 109. 
" Cedarlawn," Home of J. T. Headley, 91. 
Cedarmere, L. I., Home of Bryant, 118. 
Centre Harbor, N. H., 66. 



Charleston, S. C, Routes, 170. 

Charleston, S. C, Description of, 170. 

Charlestown, N. H., 58. 

Charlotte, N. C, 167. 

Charlotte, N. Y., 85. 

Charlottesville, Va., 156. 

Chattahoochee River, Ga., 186. 

Chattanooga, Tenn., 216. 

Chaudiere Falls, Quebec, 33. 

Chelsea Beach, 53. 

Cherry Valley, N. Y., 117. 

Cheraw, S. C, 175. 

Chesapeake Bay, Md., 138. 

Chicago, 111., 233. 

Chilicothe, O., 227. 

Cincinnati, 0., Routes thence, and Hotels, 224. 

"North Bend," Home of General Har- 
rison, 226. 

" Over the Rhine." 236. 

Public Buildings, Churches, Theatres, 
224. 

Residence of Mr. Longworth, 226. 

Suspension Bridge, 225. 

The Vicinage, 226. 
Claremont, N. H., 53. 
Clarendon Springs, Vt., 73. 
Clarksville, Ga.,l90. 
Cleveland, O., 226. 
Coburg, Canada, 35. 
Cohassett, Mnss., 54. 
Colorado Territory and Towns, 274. 
Columbia Springs, near Hudson, N. Y., 93 and 117. 
Columbia, Pa., 134. 
Columbia, 8. C, 17.5. 
Columbia, Tenn., 216. 
Columbia, Cal., 60. 

Columbia River, Oregon Territory, 268. 
Cold Spring, Hudson River, 91. 
Columbus, Ga., 189. 
Columbus, Miss., 199. 
Columbus, O., 237. 
Coney Island, 81. 
Concord, Mass., 54. 
Concord, N. H., 65. 
Connecticut, State of, 59. 
Connecticut River and Railways, 55. 
Conway Valley, N. H., 66. 
Cooperstown, N. Y., 117. 
Cooper's "Well, Miss., 199. 
Cornwall Landing, Hudson River, 91. 
Coming, N. Y., 99. 
Covington, Ky., 219. 
Coultersville, Cal., 260. 
Cowpens, Battle-field, S. C, 178. 
Cozzens' Hotel, Hudson River, 89. 
Crescent City, Cal., 264. 
Croton Falls, Harlem Railway, 103. 
Cumberland, Md., 138. 
Cumberland River, Ky., 217. 
Cumberland Gap, Ky., 231. 
Cm'rahee Mountain, Ga., 192. 



Dartmouth College, 
Davenport, lo., 24.3. 



D 

Hanover, N. H, 58. 



INDEX. 



2V9 



Dayton, O., 22T. 

Dacotali Territory, 275. 

Denver, Cal., 275. 

Deorfield Mountain, Mass., 57. 

Delaware, State of, 123. 

Delaware Eiver, 135. 

Delaware Water Gap, Pa., 135. 

Downieville, Cal., 257. 

Detroit, Mich., 236. 

Des Plaines Eiver, III., 282. 

Devil's Pulpit, Ky., 229. 

Diamond Cave, Ky., 222. 

District of Columbia, 166. 

Dobbs' Ferry, Hudson Eiver, 85. 

Dover Plains, Harlem Eailway, 103. 

Drennon Springs, Ky., 220. 

Dubuque, lo., 242. 

Dunkirk, N. T. & Erie E. E., 99. 



E 

Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia, 188. 

Eastport, Me., 45. 

Eastatoia PaUs, Ga., 191. 

Elgin Springs, Vt., 73. 

Elizabeth, N. J., 120. 

Ellioott's Mills, Md., 138. 

Elmira, N. York & Erie E. E., 98. 

Enterprise, Fla., 181. 

Epsom Salts Cave, Ind., 229. 

Erie (N. T. &) Eailway, 95. 

Esculapia Springs, Ky., 220. 

Evansville, Ind., 230. 

Eutaw Springs, S. 0., 175. 



P 

Tall Eiver Eoute from New York to Providence 

and Boston, 49. 
Eall Eiver, Mass., 50. 
Falls Village, Conn., 59. 
Falls of the Passaic, N. J., 122. 
Falls of St. Anthony, Mississippi Eiver, 248. 
Fayetteville, N. C, 167. 
Fillmore City, Utah, 273. 
Fishkill, Hudson Eiver, 92. 
Flatbush, L. I., 81. 
Platlands, L. I., 81. 
Flint Eiver, Ga., 186. 
Florida, 179. 
Flushing, L. I., 81. 
Fond du Lac, Wis., 246. 
Folsom, Cal., 258. 
Fort Hamilton, N. Y., 81. 
Fort Hill, 8. C, Home of Calhoun, 177. 
Fort Des Moines, lo., 243. 
Port Lee, Hudson Eiver, 85. 
Fort Madison, lo., 243. 
Fort Moultrie, S. C, 170. 
Fort Plain, Central Eailway, IST. Y., 109. 
Fort Smith, Ark, 214. 
Fort Snelling, Mln., 248. 
FortTejon, Cal., 262. 
Fort Washington, Hudson Eiver, 85. 
Fort Wayne, Ind., 230. 



Fortification Eock, Wis., 244, 
Fountain Cave, Min., 248. 
Fox Eiver, 111., 232. 
Fox and Phillips Springs, Ky., 220. 
Frankfort, Ky., 219. 
Frederickton, N. B., 89. 
Frederick, Md., 138. 
Fredericksburg, Va., 158. 
French Broad Eiver, N. C, 168. 
Fulton, lU., 234. 

G 

Galena, 111., 283. 

Galveston, Tex., 211, 

Gardiner, Me., 45. 

Gates of the Eocky Mountains, Missouri Eiver 

238 
Genesee Falls, N. Y., 110. 
Geneva, N. Y. Central Eailway, 110. 
Genoa, Nev. Ter., 259. 
Georgia, State of, 184. 
Georgia Eailway Routes, 186. 
Georgia, the Mountain Eegion, 189. 
Georgia, Mountain Accommodations, 191. 
Georgetown, D. C, 148. 
Georgetown, S. C, 175. 
Ginger Cake Eock, N. C, 167. 
Glenn's Falls, N. Y., 104. 
Grand Haven, Mich., 237. 

Grand Trunk Eailway— from Portland north, 46, 
Gravesend, L. I., 81. 
Great Barrington, Mass., 59. 
Great Lakes,"the, 36. 
Great Bend, N. Y. & Erie E. E., 98. 
Great Salt Lake, Utah, 272. 
Great Salt Lake City, Utah, 272. 
Great Falls of the Missom-i, 238. 
Grass Valley, Cal., 257. 
Green Bay, Wis., 246. 
Greenfield. Mass., 57. 
Greenwood Lake, N. Y. & N. J., 122. 
Green Eiver, Ky., 17. 
Greenville, S. C, 176. 
Greenwood Cemetery, N. Y., 81. 



H 

H.agerstown, Md., 138. 
Halifax, N. S., 41. 
Hallowell, Me., 45. 
Hamilton, Canada, 36. 
Hampton, 53. 

Hancock, N. Y. & Erie E. E., 97. 
Hanging Eocks, Va., 164. 
Hanover, Va., 154. 
Hanover, N. H., 58. 
Hannibal, Mo , 241. 
Harlem Eailway, 102. 
Harrodsburg, Ky., 220. 
Harrodsbiirg Springs, Ky., 220 
Harper's Ferry, Va., 141 and 153. 
Harrlsburg, Pa., 130. 
Hartford, Ct., 49. 
Harvard University, 52. 
Hastings, Hudson Eiver, 86. 



280 



INDEX. 



Haverstraw, Hudson Kiver, 87. 

Havre-de-Grace, Md., 124. 

Hawk's Bill, N. C, 1C7. 

Hawk's Nest, Va., 163. 

Hermitage, Home of General Jackson, 216. 

Hiawassee Falls, Gti., 192. 

Hickory Nut Gap, N. C, 16T. 

Highlands of the Hudson, 89. 

Hingham, Mass., 54. 

Hoboken, N. J., 81. 

Holly Springs, Miss., 199. 

Hornellsville, N. Y. & Erie E. E., 99. 

Housatonic Kiver, Vallej', and Eailway, 59. 

Houston, Tex., 211. 

Hudson Elver, description of, 84 

Hudson Ei\'er Eailway, 84. 

Hudson Eivcr Steamboat Eoutes, 84. 

Hudson, Hudson Iliver, 93. 

Huntsville, Ala., 19.5. 

Hyde Park, on the Hudson, 92. 



Ice Moimtain, Ya., 164. 
Id.aho Territory, 2T6. 
"Idlewild," Home of N. P. 'Willis, 91. 
Illinois, State of, 231. 
Illinois Prairie, Grand Prairie, 231, 
Illinois Eivcr, 232. 
Indian Springs, Ga., 193. 
Indiana, Elvers, Eailways, Towns, etc., 228. 
Indianapolis. Ind., 229. 

Indian Territory — extent, character, and inhabit- 
ants, 276. 
Introduction, Advice to Travellers, 5, 
Iowa, State of, 241. 
Iowa Eiver, 242. 
Iowa City, 242. 

Irvington and " Sunnyside," on the Hndson, 86, 
Isle di Shoals, Portsmouth, N. H., 53. 



Jacksonville, Pla., 181. 
Jackson, Miss., 198. 
Jackson, Tenn., 216. 
Jamaica, L. 1., 82. 
Jamestown, Va., 153. 
Janesville, "Wis., 245. 
Jelferson City, Mo., 240. 
Jersey City, N. J., 82. 
Jocassee Valley, S. C, 177. 
Juniata Eiver, Pa., 132. 



Kansas — character and settlement, 269, 

Eoutes thither, 270. 
Kansas Eiver, 270. 
Kansas Towns and Villages, 270. 
Kankakee Eiver, 111., 232. 
Katahdin Mt., Maine, 44. 
Keesville, N. T., 116. 
Kentucky, State of, 217, 



Kentucky Caves, 221. 

Kentucky Eailways, 218. 

Kentucky Elvers, 217. 

Kentucky Sink Holes, 221. 

Kentucky Springs, 220. 

Kentucky Towns, 218. 

Kentucky Eiver, 317. 

Kenosha, "Wis., 245. 

Kennebec Eiver, Me., 45. 

Keokuk, lo., 243, 

Keowee Eiver, S. C, 177. 

Key "West, Fla., 184. 

Killington Peak, Vt., 73. 

Kinderhook on the Hudson, 93. 

Kingston, Canada, 35. 

Kingston, on the Hudson, 92. 

King's Mountain, Battle-field, S. C, 178 

Knob Lick, Ky., 220. 

KnoxviUe, Tenn., 216, 



La Fayette, Ind., 230. 

La Chine, Canada, 34. 

Lake Castleton, Vt., 74. 

Lake Champlain, N. Y., 106. 

Lake Dunmore, Vt., 73. 

Lake George ; Eoutes : Caldwell, Bortoi^ The 

Narrows, Sabbath Day Point, E\.*,-,rs' Slide^ 

Ticonderog.o, 104 
Lake Mahopac, 103 and 116. 
Lake Pleasant, Eegion of, N. Y., 116, 
Lake Ontario, 35. 
Lancaster, Pa., 130. 
Lansing, Mich., 237. 
Lauderdale Springs, Miss., 199. 
Lebanon Springs, N. Y., 60 and 117. 
Lebanon, Tenn., 216. 
Lehigh Eiver, 125. 
Lettonian Springs, Ky., 220, 
Lewiston, Me., 47. 
Lexington, Mass., 54. 
Lexington, Va., 155. 
Lexington, Ky., 219. 
Lexington, Mo., 241. 
Licking Eiver, Ky., 317. 
Little Falls, Central Eailway, N. Y., 109. 
Little Eock, Ark., 213. 

" Lindenwold," Home of Martin Van Buren, 93. 
London, Canada, 34 
Long Branch, N. .1., 81. 
Long Island, N. Y., and Battle of, 118. 
Look-out Mountain, Ga., 192. 
Los Angeles, Cal., 203. 
I Louisiana, State of, 199. 
! Eailwiivs, 200. 

I Lomsville, Ky., 218. 
' Lowell, 54 
LjTin, Mass., 53. 
Lynchburg, V.a., 155. 



M 



Mackinac, the Straits of, 37, 
Macon, Ga., 189, 



INDEX. 



281 



Madison''s Cave, Va,, 168. 

Madison, Ind., 280. 

Madison, "Wis., 245. 

Madison Springs, Ga., 193. 

Mahopac, Lalie, 116. 

Maine, State of, 43. 

Manitowoc, Wis., 246. 

Mammotli Cave, Ky., 221. 

Mansfield Mountain, Vt., T3. 

Maryland, State of, 135. 

Marshfleld, Mass., 54 

Martha's Vineyard, 54. 

Mariposa, Cal., 261. 

Massachusetts, State of, 4T. 

Mauch Chunk, Pa., 130. 

Maumee Kiver, Ind., 229. 

Maysville, Ky., 220. 

Memphremagog, Lake, T4. 

Memphis, Tenn., 216. 

Mendota, Minn., 248. 

Miami Paver, O., 223. 

Michigan, State of, 285. 

Middieborough, Mass., 54. 

Mlddlehury, Vt., 74. 

Middleburg, Pla., 181. 

Milwaukee, Wis., 245. 

Milledgeville, Ga., 189. 

Minnesota — its Area, Surface, Soil, Forest Land, 
Elvers, &c., 246. 

Mississippi, State of, 197. 
Eailways, 198. 
Elvers, 198. 
Towns, 198. 
Watering Places, 199. 

Mississippi Elver — Description of, and Table of 
Distances, 204. 

Missouri, State of, 237. 
Elver, 288. 

Mobile, Ala., Eoutes thence, 195. 

Mokelumne Hill, Cal., 259. 

Montana Territory, 276. 

Montreal, Canada, Eoutes thither, Hotels, Public 
Buildings, Vicinity, 80. 

Monticello, Home of Jefferson, 156. 

Montgomery, Ala., 196. 

Monterey, Cal., 264. 

Montmorenci Falls, Canada, 33. 

Montpelier, Vt., 73. 

Moosehead Lake, 44 

Mount Ascutney, Vt., 58. 

Mount Auburn Cemetery, 52. 

Mount Desert Island, 45. 

Mount Hope, Farraganset Bay, E. I., 62. 

Mount Holyoke, Mass., 55. 

Mount Independence, Lake Champlain, 100. 

Mount St. Vincent, Hudson Elver, 85. 

Mount Tom, Mass., 56. 

Mount Toby, Mass., 57. 

Mount Vernon — Home and Tomb of Washing- 
ton, 148. 

Mount Warner, 57. 

Muaroe City, Mich., 287. 

Murfreesborough, Tenn., 216. 

Murphy's, Cal., 260. 

Muscle Shoals, Ala., 195. 

Muscatine, Io.,.243. 

Muskingum Elver, O., 223. 



N 

Nacoochee Valley, Ga., 191. 

Nahant, 52. 

Nanticoke, Pa., 133. 

Nantucket, 54. 

Nantasket Beach, 53. 

Napoleon, Ark., 214. 

Narraganset Bay, E. I., 62. 

Narrowsburg, N. T. and Erie E. E., 97. 

Nashville, Tenn., 215. 

Natural Bridge, Va., 160. 

Natural Bridge, Ala., 195. 

Natural Bridge, Ky., 221. 

Natural Bridge, Ark., 213. 

Natchez, Miss., 199. 

Nauvoo, 111., 234. 

Nazareth, Pa., 130. 

Nebraska Territory. 271. 

Nevada, Cal., 257. ' 

Nevada Territory, 275. 

New Albany, Ind., 230. 

Newark, N. J., 119. 

New Bedford, Mass., 54. 

Newbern, N. C, 167. 

Newburgh, on the Hudson, 91. 

New Brunswick, General Description of, 38. 

New Brunswick, N. J., 120. 

Newburyport, Mass., 53. 

Newcastle and Frenchtown Eailway, 123. 

New Hampshire, State of, 63. 

New Haven, Ct., 49. 

New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield Eoute from 

New York to Boston and Providence, 48. 
New Jersey, State of, 119. 
New Jersey Eailwav, 119. 
New Madrid, Mo., 241. 

New Mexico, Ten-itory of, and Eoutes to, 273. 
New Orleans, La., 200. ^ 

Battle of, 203. 
Cemeteries, 202. 

Churches, Public Edifices, &c., 201. 
Hotels, 200. 
Theatres, &c., 201. 
The Levee, 203. 
The Markets, 208. 
Panorama of the City, 204. 
Pere Antoine's Date Palm, 240. 
Newport, E. 1., 62. 
Newport, Ky., 219. 
New Windsor, 91. 
New York, State of, 74. 
Nei7 York City, 75. 

The Arsenal, 80. 
Art Societies, 79. 
Artists' Studios, 79. 
Bloomingdale, 81. 
Churches, 80. 
Croton Aqueduct, 80. 
, Fii'st-class Business Houses, 80, ' 
Fort Hamilton, 81. 
Greenwood Cemetery, 81. 
Harlem, 81. 
High Bridge, 80. 
Hotels, 75. 

literary Institutions and Libra- 
ries, 78. . 



282 



INDEX. 



New Tcrk City, Manhattanville, 81, 

N. T. Bay Cemetery, S3. 
Panorama from Trinity Chnrcli, 

76. 
Public Buildings, 78. 
Public Parks and Squares, 77. 
Tlieatres and Places of Amuse- 
ment, 80. 
Ne-sv York to Albany and Troy, 83. 
New York to Boston— Route, 48. 
New York to Buftalo, N. Y., 109. 
New York to Buffalo and Niagara Tails, 99. 
New York to the Catskill Mountains, 100. 
New York and Erie Eailway, 95. 
New York to Lake Erie, 95. 
New York to Montreal, via Late Cliamplain, 106. 
New York to Philadelphia, 119. 
New York to Trenton Falls, 107. 
Niagara Falls. Pvoutes — Goat Island, the Eapids, 
Chapin's Island", the Toll Gate, the Cave of the 
"Winds, Luna Island, Sam Patch''s Leap, Bid- 
die's Stairs, Prospect Tower, the Horse-shoe 
Fall, Gull Island, Grand Island, the Whirlpool, 
the Devil's Hole, Chasm Tower, the Maid of 
the Mist, the Great Suspension Bridge, Ben- 
der's Cave, the Clifton House, Table Kock, 
Termination Kock, 110. 
Nickaiaok Cave, Ga. and Ala., 195. 
Norfolk, Va., 152. 
North CaroUna, General Eemarks, Kailways, &c., 

IM. 
North Carolina, Mountain Eegion, 167. 
Northampton, Mass., 55. 
North Point, and Battle of, 138. 
Northumberland, on the Susquehanna, Pa., 134 
Norwalk, Ct., 48. 

Norwich Eoute, from New York to Boston, &c., 48. 
Nova Scotia, Description of, 40. 
Nyack, Hudson Pdver, 86. 
« 

O 

Ockmulgee River, Ga., 186. 
Oconee lliver, Ga., 186. 
Osrlethorpe University, Ga., 189. 
Ohio, State of, 222. 

Rivers, 223. 

Railways, 223. 

Cities and Towns, 224. 
Ohio River, Description and Distances, 207. 
Olvmpia, Wash. Ter., 2T1. 
Omaha City, Nebraska Ter., 271. 
Orangeburg, S. C, 175. 
Oregon, History, Topography, Eivers, Mountains, 

Towns, &c., 267. 
Oregon City, 268. 
Oroville, Cal., 255. 
Oregon, Routes from St. Louis, 265. 
Otsego Lake, N. Y., 117. 
Ottawa River, Canada, Description of, 26. 
Otter Creek Falls, Vt., 73. 
Oswego, N. Y., 35. 
Owego, N. Y. and Erie E. K., 98. 



Paducab, Ky., 220. 

Palatine Bridge, Central Eailway, N. Y., 109. 



Palisades, on the Hudson, 81. 

Palmyra, Mo., 241. 

Panama, 252. 

Paroquet Springs, Ky., 220. 

Passamaquoddy Bay, 46. 

Patapsco River, 136. 

Peaks of Otter, Va., 161. 

Pearl River, Ala., 198. 

Peekskill, Hudson River, 83. 

Pendleton, S. C. 177. 

Pennsylvania, State of, 125. 

Pennsylvania Coal Region, 132. 

Pennsylvania Railway, 131. 

Penobscot River, Me., 44. 

Pensacola, Fla., 183. 

Peoria, 111., 284. 

Peru, 111., 234. 

Petenwell Peak, Wis., 244 

Petersburg, Va., 153. 

Phillip's Beach, 53. 

Piccolata, Fla., 181. 

Pickens Court House, S. C, 177. 

Piermont, Hudson River, 86. 

Pilatka, Fla., 181. 

Pilot Mountain, N. C, 167. 

Pilot Mountain, Ga., 192. 

Pilot Knob, Mo., 249. 

Pittsfield, Mass., 60. 

Pittsburg, Pa., 132. 

Philadelphia and Vicinity, 126. 

Art Societies, 128. 

Benevolent Institutions, 128. 

Cemeteries, Laurel Hill, &c., 129. 

Churches, 127. 

Fairmount Waterworks, 129. 

Falls of the Schuylkill, 1 29. 

Germantown, 129. 

Hotels, 126. 

Literary Institutions, 128. 

Manayunk, 129. 

Medical Colleges, 128. 

Places of Amusement, 129. 

Prisons, 129. 

Public Edifices, 127. 

Public Squares, 126. 

The Schuylkill Viaduct, 129. 

Wissahickon Creek, 129. 
Philadelphia to Baltimore, 123. 
Philadelphia, WUmington and Baltimore E. E., 

123. 
Philadelphia to Pittsburg and the West, 131. 
Phillips' Beach, 53. 

" Placentia," home of J. K. Paulding, 92. 
Placerville, Cal., 25B. 
Plattsburg, N. Y., and Battle of Lake Champlaiin, 

107. 
Plantagenet Springs, Canada, 29. 
Platteville, Wis., 245. 
Plymouth, Mass., 54. 
Plymouth, N. H., 66. 
Popular Mountain Springs, Ky., 220. 
Portage Citj', Wis., 246. 
Port Clinton, Pa., 129. 
Port Kent, Lake Champlain, 107. 
Port Jervis, N. Y. and Erie R. E., 96. 
Portland, Me., 46. 
Portland, Oregon, 269. 



INDEX. 



283 



Portsmouth, N. H., 58. 
Portsmouth, Va., 153. 
Portsmouth, O., 228. 
Portage, N. T. and Erie E. E., 99. 
Potomac River, 135. 
PottstOTvn, Pa., 129. 
Pottsville, Pa., 129. , 
Poughkeepsie, Hudson Kiver, 92. 
PDw'der Springs, Ga., 194. 
Preface, 5. 

Prescott, Canada, 34. 
Princeton, N. J., 120. 
Pi-inceton College, N. J., 120. 
Providence and Vicinity, 61, 



Q. 

Quebec, Canada, Description of, Eoutes, Hotels, 
Objects of Interest in the City and Vicinity, 
32. 

Quincy, near Boston, 54. 

Quincy, 111., 234. 



E. 

Eacine, Wis., 246. 
Eahway, K". J., 120. 
Ealeigh, N. C, 166. 

Kamapo Valley, N. T. and Erie E. E., 95, 
Beading, Pa., 129. 
Bed Bank, N. J., 81. 
Bed Bluff, Cal., 256. 
Bed Sulphur Springs, Ga., 193. 
Ehode Island, Histdrical and Topographical men- 
tion of, 61. 
Eichfield Springs, N. T., 118. 
Eichmond, Va., 151. 
Eichmond, Ind., 231. 
Eideau Falls, Canada, 27. 
Eio Grande, Texas, 210. 
Elvers of Alabama, 194. 
Eochester, N. T. Central Eailway, 110. 
Bock Mountain, Ga., 192. 
Eocky Point, Narraganset Bay, E. I., 62. 
Eockaway, L. I., 81. 
Bock Island, 111., 234. 
Eockland Lake, Hudson Eiver, 87. 
Book Eiver, 111., 282. 
Bondout on the Hudson, 92. 
Eouse's Point, Lake Champlain, 107. 
Bowland Springs, Ga., 193. 
Eutland, Va., 73. 



S, 

St. Anne's Falls, Canada, 33. 

St. Andrews, N. B., 89. 

St. Anthony, Min., and the Falls of St. Anthony. 

248 and 250. 
San Antonio, Tex., 212. 
St. Augustine, Fla., 182. 
Santa Barbara, Cal., 263. 
St. Catherines, Canada, 29 and 36. 
Bt. Charles City, Mo., 241. 



St. Croix Falls and Bapids, Min., 249. 

San Diego, Cal., 268. 

Santa Fe, New Hex., 274. 

St. Francis, on Bed Eiver, Ark.. 213. 

San Francisco, Cal., from New Tork, 258. 

San Francisco, Cal., 253. 

St. Genevieve, Mo., 241. 

San Jose, Cal., 262. 

San Andreas, Cal., 260. 

Santa Cruz. Cal., 264. 

St. Joseph,' Mo., 240. 

St. Johns Eiver, N. B., 88. 

St. Johns, N. B., 89. 

St. Johns Eiver, Fla., 181. 

St. Lawrence Eiver ; Thousand Islands ; 26 and 34. 

St. Leon Springs, Canada, 29. 

St. Louis, Mo., 239. 

St. Louis Eiver, Wis., 244 

St. Mary, Straits of, 37. 

St. Marys, Ga., 183. 

St. Mai-ks, Fla., 183. 

San Pablo, Straits of, Cal., 254. 

St. Paul, Min., 249. 

Sacketts Harbor, N. T., 35. 

Sacramento Eiver, Cal., 255, 

Sacramento City, Cal., 255. 

Saddle Mountain, Mass., 47. 

Saguenay Eiver, Canada, Eoutes thither and de* 

scription of, 28. 
Salem, Mass., 53. 
Salisbury Beach, 53. 
Salisbury Lakes, Ct., 59. 
Salt Pond, Va., 164. 
Salt Eiver, 317. 
Sandusky City, O., 228. 
Sangamon Eiver, 111., 232. 
Saranac Lakes, (the,) N. T., 115. 
Saratoga Springs, 103. 
Savannah, City of, 187. 

Cemetery of Bonaventure, 187. 
Jasper's Spring, 188. 
Savannah Eiver, Scene of the invention of the Cot' 

ton Gin, Alligators, etc., 185. 
Schooley's Mountain, N. J., 122. 
Schenectady, N. T., 109. 
Schuylkill Eiver, 126. 
Schuylkill Haven, Pa., 129. 
Scioto Eiver, O., 228. 
Sebago Pond, Maine, 44. 
Seneca Lake, N. T., 110. 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, Cal., 257. 
Sing Sing, Hudson Eiver, 87. 
Sioux Eiver and Bapids, Mlq., 249. 
Shaker Village, N. T., 117. 
Sharon Springs, 117. 
Shasta City, Cal., 256. 
Sheboygan, Wis., 246. 
Sheffield, 59. 
Shrewsbury, N. J., 81. 
Shickshinney on the Susquehanna, Pa., 134. 
Skaneateles Lake, N. Y., 109. 
Skaneateles, N. T. Central Eailway, 109. 
Skeleton Tours, 9. 
Slicking Falls, S. C, 177. 
Sonora, Cal., 260. 
South Amboy, 121. 
South Carolina, 168. 



284 



INDEX. 



South Carolina, Eailway Eoutes, 169. 

Seaboard and Lowlands, 172. 
Mountain villages and scenery, 176. 
Spartanburg, S. C, 177. 
Springs in New York, 118. 
Springfield, Mass., 49. 
Sprin-field, O., 22S. 
Springfield, 111., 233. 
Springs in Canada: — The Caledonia, the Planta- 

genet, the St. Leon, and St. Catherines. Koutes 

thither, 29. 
Squam Lake, N. H., 6C. 
Staten Island, K T., 77 and SI. 
Starrucca Viaduct, N. T. & Erie E. E., 97. 
Staunton, Va., 156. 
Steubenville, O., 228. 
Stillwater, Min., 249. 
Stone Mountain, Ga., 192. 
Stockbridge, Mass., 59. 
Stockton, Cal., 261. 
Stonington Koute from New Tort to Providence 

and Boston, 49. 
Stonington, Conn., 49. 
Stony Point, Hudson Eivcr, 86. 
Sugar Loaf Mountain, Mass., 56. 
Sugar Loaf Mountain, Maine, 44. 
Sulphur Springs, 6a., 193. 
Sunbury, Pa., 184. 
Superior, Lake, 37. 

Susquehanna Bepot, N. T. & Erie E. E., 93. 
Susquehanna Eiver, 183. 
Swannanoa Gap, N. C, 167. 
Syracuse, N. Y. Central Eailway, 109. 

T. 

Table Mountain, S. C, 176. 

Table Eock, N. C, 167. 

Tallulah Falls, Ga., 191. 

Tallahassee, Pla., 183. 

Tampa, Pla., 184. 

Tarrytown, Hudson Eiver, 86. 

Tar & Breckenridge "White Sulphur Springs, Ky., 

220. 
Tar and Sulphur Springs, Ky., 220. 
Taugkanic Mountains, Mass., 59. 
Taunton, Mass., 54. 
Tea Table, Va., 164. 
Tennessee, State of; 214. 
Tennessee Eaihvays, 215. 
Tennessee Eiver, Tenn., 214. 
Tennessee Towns, 215. 
Tennessee Caves and Mounds, 216. 
Terre Haute, Ind., 280. 
Texas, State of, 209. 
Texas, Landscape of, 210. 
Texas Eivers, 210. 
Texas Eailways, 211. 
Texas Towns, 211. 
Texas "Wild Animals and Birds, 211. 
Thundering Springs, Ga., 193. 
Ticonderoga, Fort, 105. 
Tinton Falls, N. J., 81. 
Toccoa FaUs, Ga., 190. 
Toledo, O., 228. 

Tomh of the Mother of "Washington, 154 
Tombigbee Eiver, Ala., 194 



Toronto, Canada, 85. (j.; 

Tour up the St. La-^vrence, 84. "*'■:' 

Tour to the great Lak^s, Toronto to CoUingwood, "' 
Mackinac, Sault St. Marie, Lake Superior, 36. ; 
Towalaga Falls, Ga., 193. J 

Track llook, Ga., 192. J 

Trenton Falls, N. Y., 107. 
Trenton, N. J., 120. 
Troy, N. Y., 94. 
Tuscaloosa, Ala., 196. 

IT. 

" Undercliff," Home of George P. Morris, 91. 

"United States — Extent and Population, 42. 

Union College, Schenectady, N. Y., 109. 

"University of "Virginia, 156. 

"Umbagog^'Lake, 44. 

"Utah Territory — Character, Climate, Lakes, Nat" 

ural Wonders, Settlements, Mormons, 272. 
"Utica, N. Y. Central Eailway, 109. 



Van Buren, Ark., 213. 
Valley Forge, Pa., 129. 
Valley of Wyoming, Pa., 138. 
Vermont, State of, 72. 
Vermont Central Eailway, 72. 
Vernon, Vt., 57. 

Verplanck's Point, Hudson Eiver, 87. 
Vicksburg, Miss., 199. 

Virginia— Historical and Poetical Memories, Em- 
inent Men, Natural Beauties, Mineral Springs, 
E.ailway Eoutes, etc., 149. 
Virginia Springs, 157. 

Alleghany Springs, 160. 

Bath Alum Springs, 159. 

Berkeley Springs^ 159. 

The Blue Sulphur, 158. 

The Eed Sulphur, 158. 

Capon Springs, 1.59. 

Dibreirs Springs, 160. 

Fauquier White Sulphur, 159. 

Grayson's Sulphur, 160. 

Healing Springs, 159. 

Hot Springs, 159. 

Huguenot Springs, 160. 

New London Alum, 160. 

Pulaski Alum Springs, 160. 

Eawley's Springs, 160. 

Eed Sweet Springs, 159. 

Eockbridge Alum, 159. 

Eoutes, 157. 

Salt Sulphur, 158. 

Shannondale Springs, 159. 

Sweet Springs, 159. 

Warm Springs, 159. 

White Sulphur, 157 . 

City, Nevada, Ter., 259. ^ 

Visalia, Cal., 262. 

W 

Wahash Eiver, Ind., 229. 

Walled Banks of the Ausahle, N. Y., lOT 

Walhalla, S. 0., 177. 



rsTTiBrg:. 



285 



Wap-wollopen, on the Susqneliaiina, Pa.., 184. 
Washingtou City — Description, National Edifices, 
Municipal Buildings, Hotel*. Mount Vernon, 
etc., 146. 
Washington Territory — Physical Aspect, Settle- 
ments and Towns, 271. 
Warm Springs, N. C, 108. 
Warm Springs, Ga,, 193. 

Water I'alls in Canada — Niagara, Montmorenci, 
Ohandiere, on the Ottowa, the Chaudiere near 
Quebec, Padeau, Shawanegan, St. Anne's, 29, 
Watering Places in Georgia, 198. 
Watering Places in Alabama, 195. 
Waterville, Me., 45. 
Watertown, Wis., 246. 
Waukesha, Wis., 245. 
Weehawlien, N. J., 81 
Weir's Cave, Va., 162. 
Welaka, Pla., 181. 
Wells River, 58, 6T. 
Wenham, Mass., 53. 
West Point, Hudson Elver, 90. 
Weston, Mo., 241. 
Wheatland, near Lancaster, Pa. — Home of James 

Buchanan, 180. 
Wheeling, Va., 15T. 
White Mountains, N. H., Pontes thither, 64-68. 

The Ammanoosac Eiver, 70. 

The Basin, 71. 

Cannon Mountain, 71. 

The Crystal Falls, 70. 

TheDevil'sDen, 70. 

Description of routes, 64. 

Dixville Notch, 72. 

Eagle Cliff, 71. 

Echo Lake, 71. 

The Flume, 71. 

The Franconia HUls, 70. 

Glen House, 67. 

Great Notch, 68. 

Hotels, 68. 

Mount Lafayette, 71. 

Mt. Washington, 69. 

Oakes' Gulf, 70. 

The "Old Man of the Moun- 
tain," or Profile Eock, 71. 

The Pool, 71. 

The Profile Lake, 71. 

Scenes and Incidents, 68. 



White Mountains, The Silver Cascade, 70. 

The Summit House, 70. 

Tuckerman's Eavine, C9. 

The Willey House, 70. 
White Eiver Junction, 58. 
White Water Cataracts, S. C, 17T. 
Whitehall, N. Y., 106. 
White Plains, Harlem Eailway, 103. 
White Eiver, Ark., 213. 
White Sulphur Springs, Ky., 220. 
Wild Fowl of the Chesapeake, 139. 
Williamsburg, Va., 154. 
Wilkesbarre, Pa., 133. 
Williamsport, Pa., 134. 
Wilmington, N. O., 16T. 
Wilmington, Del., 124. 
Willoughby Lake, Vt., 74. 
William's College, Williamsto'wn, Mass., 60. 
Williamstown, Mass., 60. 
Willamette Eiver, Or., 268. 
Valley, Or., 268. 
Winchester, Va.," 153. 
Windsor, Vt., 58. 
Winnebago Lake, 244. 
Winnipiseogee Lake, 65. 
Winooski Valley and Eiver, Vt., 72. 
Wisconsin, State of, 243. 
Wisconsin Eiver, 244. 
"Woodlands," S. C— Home of W. Gilmore 

Simms, 172. 
Worcester, Mass., 49. 
Wyandotte Cave, Ind., 229. 



Tazoo Elver, Ala., 198 
Yonah Mount, Ga., 191. 
Yonkers, Hudson Elver, 85. 
York, Pa., 134. 
Yorkville, S. C, 178. 
Yorktown, and Battle of, Va., 155, 
Yo-Semite Valley, Cal., 261. 
Ypsilanti, Mich , 237. 
Yreka, Cal., 256. 



Z 



Zanesville, 0., 227. 




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